Around Broome

Malcolm Douglas Wilderness ParkWILDLIFE RESERVE

(icon-phonegif%08-9193 6580; www.malcolmdouglas.com.au; Broome Hwy; adult/child/family $35/20/90; icon-hoursgifh2-5pm daily)

Visitors enter through the jaws of a giant crocodile at this 30-hectare animal refuge 16km northeast of Broome. The park is home to dozens of crocs (there are feedings and informative talks at 3pm), as well as kangaroos, cassowaries, emus, dingos, jabirus and numerous other birds.

Broome Bird ObservatoryNATURE RESERVE

(icon-phonegif%08-9193 5600; www.broomebirdobservatory.com; Crab Creek Rd; admission by donation, camping per person $15, unit with shared bathroom s/d/f $50/85/100, chalets $165; icon-hoursgifh8am-4pm Mar-Nov)

On Roebuck Bay, this amazing bird observatory in a beautiful bush setting near an accessible beach 25km from Broome is a vital staging post for thousands of migratory birds (around 40 species), some travelling over 12,000km. Tours range from one-hour introductory 'walk and talks' ($20) or 2½-hour driving tours ($70) to a five-day all-inclusive course ($1290). You can even stay here in a unit or a self-contained chalet.

Dampier Peninsula

Stretching north from Broome, the red pindan of the Dampier Peninsula ends abruptly above deserted beaches, secluded mangrove bays and cliffs burnished crimson by the setting sun. This remote and stunning country is home to thriving Indigenous settlements of the Ngumbarl, Jabirr Jabirr, Nyul Nyul, Nimanburu, Bardi Jawi and Goolarabooloo peoples. Access is by 4WD, along the largely unsealed 215km-long Cape Leveque Rd.

On Cape Leveque Rd, turn left after 14km onto Manari Rd, and head north along the spectacular coast. There are bush camping sites (no facilities) at Barred Creek, Quandong Point, James Price Point and Coulomb Point, where there is a nature reserve.

If you wish to visit Aboriginal communities, accessed from Cape Leveque Rd, you must always book ahead (directly with your community hosts or through the Broome Visitor Centre); check if permits and/or payments are required. Look for the excellent booklet Ardi – Dampier Peninsula Travellers Guide ($5). You should be self-sufficient, though limited supplies are available. Many communities (or outstations) offer accommodation – formal or camping – fishing, kayaking and crabbing opportunities.

TTours

icon-top-choiceoChomley's ToursGUIDED TOUR

(icon-phonegif%08-9192 6195; www.chomleystours.com.au; 1-/2-day tours $280/520)

Chomley's offers several excellent day and overnight tours of the Peninsula (including mudcrabbing and other activities), plus one-way transfers. Reduced rates for children.

Beagle Bay

Beagle Bay ChurchCHURCH

(icon-phonegif%08-9192 4913; admission by donation)

Around 110km from Broome, Beagle Bay is notable for the extraordinarily beautiful mother-of-pearl altar at Beagle Bay church, built by Pallottine monks in 1918. There's no accommodation, but fuel is available (weekdays only). Book ahead and proceed directly to the church.

Middle Lagoon & Around

Middle LagoonCOMMUNITY

(icon-phonegif%08-9192 4002; www.middlelagoon.com.au; unpowered/powered sites $30/40, beach shelter d $50, cabins d $140-240)

Middle Lagoon, 180km from Broome and surrounded by empty beaches, is superb for swimming, snorkelling, fishing and well, doing nothing. There's plenty of shade and bird life, and the cabins are great value.

Mercedes CoveCABINS

(icon-phonegif%08-9192 4687; www.mercedescove.com.au; Pender Bay; eco tents/air-con cabins $150/300)icon-sustainableS

Near Middle Lagoon and with its own secluded beach, Mercedes Cove offers isolation, with several appealing meshed huts ('eco tents') and air-con cabins with gorgeous views. It's very well-run (read attention to detail) and you can almost roll into the sea from your camp site – it's a 20m stroll down down a gently sloping sandy path.

Gnylmarung RetreatCAMPGROUND

(icon-phonegif%0429 411 241; www.gnylmarung.org.au; sites per person $20, bungalows from $90)

This small, low-key community near Middle Lagoon offers a limited number of secluded camp sites and basic bungalows, and is popular with fishermen.

Pender Bay

icon-top-choiceoWhale Song CafeCAFE

(icon-phonegif%08-9192 4000; Munget; light meals $7-25; icon-hoursgifh9am-3pm Jun-Aug)icon-sustainableS

This exquisitely located eco-cafe overlooking Pender Bay serves fabulous organic mango smoothies, homemade gourmet pizzas and the best coffee on the peninsula. There's a tiny bush campground (camp sites per person $20) with stunning views, funky outdoor shower and not a caravan in sight. Telstra mobile reception available.

GoombaraginCAMPGROUND

(icon-phonegif%0429 505 347; www.goombaragin.com.au; Pender Bay; camp site per person $18, nature tent with shared bathroom $75, eco tent with bathroom $175, bungalow with bathroom $220; icon-wifigifW)

This friendly spot has a couple of secluded camp sites, plus slightly worn safari tents, a fixed 'nature' tent (BYO food) and a comfortable bungalow. The location is superb – set on a bluff overlooking scarlet-hued (pindan) cliffs and the beach below.

Lombadina & Around

LombadinaCOMMUNITY

(icon-phonegif%08-9192 4936; www.lombadina.com; entry per car $10, r with shared bathroom $170; icon-hoursgifhoffice 8am-noon, 1-4pm Mon-Fri, weekends by prior arrangement)

Between Middle Lagoon and Cape Leveque, Lombadina is located 200km from Broome. This beautiful tree-fringed village offers various tours (minimum of three people required) including fishing, whale watching, 4WD, mudcrabbing, kayaking and walking, which can be booked through the office. Accommodation is in backpacker-style rooms and self-contained cabins ($220 to $240), but there's no camping. Fuel is available on weekdays and there are lovely articles for sale at the Arts Centre (open weekdays).

Chile CreekCOMMUNITY

(icon-phonegif%08-9192 4141; www.chilecreek.com; sites per adult/child $16.50/10, bush bungalows with shared bathroom $95, 4-person safari tents  $185)

Tiny Chile Creek, 10km from Lombadina down a very sandy track, offers basic bush camp sites and en-suite safari tents (minimum two-night stay), all just a short stroll to the creek, or 2km from the Indian Ocean. Good for birders.

Cape Leveque & Around

Cape Leveque (Kooljaman)CAMPGROUND

Cape Leveque is spectacular, with gorgeous white beaches and stunning red cliffs. Eco-tourism award-winner Kooljaman (icon-phonegif%08-9192 4970; www.kooljaman.com.au; entry per adult $5, unpowered/powered sites d $38/43, dome tents $65, cabins with/without bathroom d $170/145, safari tents d $275; icon-wifigifW) offers grassy camp sites, driftwood beach shelters, hilltop safari tents, and budget tents. There's a minimum two-night stay, and the place is packed from June to October. The BYO restaurant (icon-phonegif%08-9192 4970; mains $29-38, BBQ packs $22-26; icon-hoursgifh8am-4pm & 6pm-10pm, Apr-Oct, lunch Nov-Mar) opens for lunch and dinner, or you can order a BBQ pack.

Brian Lee Tagalong ToursGUIDED TOUR

(icon-phonegif%08-9192 4970; www.brianleetagalong.com.au; Kooljaman; adult/child ½ day from $75/35, full day $125/75)

Be sure to hook up with one of Kimberley's characters, Brian, whose trips are considered tops for fishing lovers and keen crabbers. Own car required.

Bundy's ToursCULTURAL TOUR

(icon-phonegif%09-9192 4970; www.bundysculturaltours.com.au; Kooljaman; adult $45-75, child $25-35)

Bardi custodian Bundy offers a tour through local eyes, providing a wonderful insight into traditional customs, including bush tucker, fish poisoning and spear making.

Cygnet Bay Pearl FarmPEARL FARM

(icon-phonegif%08-9192 4283; www.cygnetbaypearls.com.au; Cygnet Bay)

Overlooking stunning Cygnet Bay, this pearl farm-cum-tourist venture provides fascinating explanations of the pearling process (adult/child $27/10) and is home to the region's best restaurant (mains $17 to $50). Accommodation choices include camping ($90 per double), safari tents ($230 per double) or more luxurious pearlers' shacks (from $290 per double). Boat trips to the giant tides cost $155.

Ardyaloon (One Arm Point)COMMUNITY

(per person $10; icon-hoursgifh8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri)

The community of Ardyaloon (One Arm Point) has a well-stocked store, fuel, great fishing and swimming with views of the Buccaneer Archipelago. Entry to the community (which includes hatchery visit) is payable at the trochus hatchery. Note: there's no camping in Ardyaloon.

GambananCAMPGROUND

(icon-phonegif%0427 786 345; near One Arm Point; per adult $20, under 12 free; icon-hoursgifhend May-Sep)

Offers little bling but this small outstation on the water, between Cape Leveque and Ardyaloon, has unpowered sites, a remote location and plenty of bush tucker trees.

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