Green Island

Showing some of the scars that come with fame and popularity, this pretty coral cay, only 45 minutes from Cairns, retains much of its beauty, though more spectacular coral can be viewed on outer reef excursions. The island has a rainforest interior with interpretive walks, a fringe of white-sand beach, and snorkelling just offshore: great for kids. You can walk around the island (which, along with its surrounding waters, is protected by national- and marine-park status) in about 30 minutes.

Fitzroy Island

A steep mountaintop rising from the sea, Fitzroy Island has coral-strewn beaches, woodlands and walking tracks, one of which ends at a now inactive lighthouse. The most popular snorkelling spot is around the rocks at Nudey Beach, which, despite its name, is not officially clothing optional. Unlike the rest of the island, Nudey actually has some sand on it.

The Fitzroy Island Turtle Rehabilitation Centre (www.saveourseaturtles.com.au; Fitzroy Island; adult/child $5.50/2.20; htours 2pm) looks after sick and injured sea turtles before releasing them back into the wild. Daily educational tours (maximum 15 guests) visit the new turtle hospital. Book through the Fitzroy Island Resort (%07-4044 6700; www.fitzroyisland.com; Fitzroy Island; studios/cabins from $155/300, 1-/2-bedroom ste from $215/325; as), where tropi-cool accommodation ranges from sleek studios and beachfront cabins through to luxurious self-contained apartments. The resort's restaurant, bar and kiosk are open to day trippers. It offers excellent value for a Reef Island stay. The resort also manages the Fitzroy Island Camping Ground (%07-4044 6700; www.fitzroyisland.com; Fitzroy Island; campsites $32): idyllic and isolated, with showers, toilets and barbecues. Advance bookings essential.

To get here, take the 45-minute Fast Cat (www.fitzroyisland.com/getting-here; adult/child round-trip $72/36) departing Cairns Marlin Wharf (berth 20) at 8am, 11am and 1.30pm (bookings essential), or do a day trip with Raging Thunder and bounce off their ocean trampoline!

Frankland Islands

If the idea of hanging out on one of five uninhabited, coral-fringed islands with excellent snorkelling and stunning white-sand beaches appeals – how can it not? – cruise out to the Frankland Group National Park.

Camping is available on the rainforested High and Russell Islands; contact the NPRSR (%13 74 68; www.nprsr.qld.gov.au; permits $5.45) for advance reservations and seasonal restrictions.

Frankland Islands Cruise & Dive (%07-4031 6300; www.franklandislands.com.au; adult/child from $159/89) runs excellent day trips which include a cruise down the Mulgrave River, snorkelling gear, tuition and lunch. Guided snorkelling tours with a marine biologist and diving packages are also offered. Transfers for campers to/from Russell Island are available. Boats depart from Deeral, about 45km south of Cairns; transfers from Cairns and the northern beaches cost $16 per person.

You’ll need to organise your own boat or charter to reach High Island.

Kuranda

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Nestled in the rainforest, arty Kuranda is one of Cairns' most popular day trips.

Kuranda

1Sights

1Australian Butterfly SanctuaryC2

BirdworldB2

2Heritage MarketsC2

3Kuranda Koala GardensB2

4Kuranda Original Rainforest MarketsC2

4Sleeping

5Kuranda Hotel MotelD2

5Eating

6Kuranda Cyber CafeB2

7Petit CafeC1

Atherton

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Yungaburra

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Lake Tinaroo

Lake Tinaroo was allegedly named when a prospector stumbled across a deposit of alluvial tin and, in a fit of excitement, shouted 'Tin! Hurroo!'. The excitement hasn't died down since, with locals fleeing the swelter of the coast for boating, waterskiing and shoreline lolling. Barramundi fishing is permitted year-round, though you'll need to pick up a permit from local businesses. Or you might like to head out for a fish, a BBQ or a glass of wine during a sunset cruise aboard a super-comfy ‘floating lounge room’, skippered by Lake Tinaroo Cruises (%0457 033 016; www.laketinaroocruises.com.au; 2/4hr boat charters $200/300).

The 28km Danbulla Forest Drive winds its way through rainforest and softwood plantations along the north side of the lake. There are five Queensland Parks campgrounds in the Danbulla State Forest. All have water, barbecues and toilets; contact NPRSR (%13 74 68; www.nprsr.qld.gov.au; permits $5.45) for essential advance bookings. Otherwise, Lake Tinaroo Holiday Park (%07-4095 8232; www.laketinarooholidaypark.com.au; 3 Tinaroo Falls Dam Rd, Tinaroo Falls; unpowered/powered sites $27/31, cabins from $89; aiWs) has mod-cons and rents out boats ($90 per half day) and canoes ($10 per hour).

Crater Lakes National Park

Part of the Wet Tropics World Heritage Area, the two mirrorlike, croc-free crater lakes of Lake Eacham and Lake Barrine are easily reached by sealed roads off the Gillies Hwy. Camping is not permitted.

Lake Barrine is the largest of the lakes, and is cloaked in thick old-growth rainforest; a 5km walking track around its edge takes about 1½ hours. Stop for Devonshire tea at the charming Lake Barrine Rainforest Tea House, (%07-4095 3847; www.lakebarrine.com.au; Gillies Hwy; mains from $8; h9am-3pm) perched over the lakefront. Lake Eacham's clear waters are idyllic for swimming and turtle spotting; there are sheltered picnic areas, a pontoon and a boat ramp. The 3km lake-circuit track is an easy one-hour walk.

Each of the four individually themed Crater Lakes Rainforest Cottages (%07-4095 2322; www.craterlakes.com.au; Lot 17, Eacham Close; d $240; ai) is a romantic hideaway in its own private patch of rainforest, replete with candles, fresh flowers, wood stoves, spa baths, full kitchens with breakfast hampers and fruit to feed the birds! For something more basic, the Lake Eacham Tourist Park (%07-4095 3730; www.lakeeachamtouristpark.com; Lakes Dr; unpowered/powered sites $22/25, cabins $90-110; i) has shady campsites and cute cabins.

From its humble origins as a sleepy 1960s fishing village, Port Douglas has grown into a sophisticated alternative to Cairns’ hectic tourist scene. With the outer Great Barrier Reef less than an hour offshore, the Daintree Rainforest practically in the backyard, and more resorts than you can poke a stick at, a growing number of flashpackers, cashed-up couples and fiscally flush families now choose Port Douglas as their base, leaving Cairns at the airport.

The town's main attraction is Four Mile Beach, a pristine strip of palm-fringed, white sand which begins at the eastern end of Macrossan St, the main drag for shopping, wining and dining. On the western end of Macrossan you'll find the picturesque Dickson Inlet and Reef Marina, where the rich and famous park their aquatic toys.

Port Douglas

1Sights

1St Mary's by the SeaB2

2Trinity Bay LookoutD2

2Activities, Courses & Tours

3Ballyhooley Steam RailwayB3

4Blue DiveC2

5BTS ToursC3

6Port Douglas Boat HireA3

7Port Douglas Yacht ClubA4

8QuicksilverB3

9Reef SprinterA2

4Sleeping

10Hibiscus GardensC3

11Mantra Aqueous on PortC3

12Martinique on MacrossanD3

13Peppers Beach ClubC4

5Eating

14Cafe FresqB2

15Little LarderC2

16On the InletA3

17Salsa Bar & GrillB2

18Sassi Cucina e BarB2

6Drinking & Nightlife

19Court House HotelB2

20Iron BarB2

Port Douglas Yacht ClubA4

21Tin ShedA2

22Whileaway Bookshop CafeC3

7Shopping

23Port Douglas MarketsB1

Daintree River to Cape Tribulation

Part of the Wet Tropics World Heritage Area, the spectacular region from the Daintree River north to Cape Tribulation features ancient rainforest, sandy beaches and rugged mountains. North of the Daintree River, electricity is supplied by generators or, increasingly, solar power. Shops and services are limited, and mobile-phone reception is largely nonexistent. The Daintree River Ferry ( GOOGLE MAP ; douglas.qld.gov.au/community/daintree-ferry; car/motorcycle $13.50/5, bicycle & pedestrian $1; h6am-midnight, no bookings) carries wanderers and their wheels across the river every 15 minutes or so.

Cape Tribulation

This isolated piece of paradise retains a frontier quality, with road signs alerting drivers to cassowary crossings, and croc warnings that make beach strolls a little less relaxing.

The rainforest tumbles right down to magnificent Myall and Cape Tribulation beaches, which are separated by a knobby cape. The little village here marks the end of the road: beyond here, the strictly 4WD-only Bloomfield track continues to Cooktown.

There is no public transport to Cape Tribulation, nor airport shuttles to any accomodation beyond the Daintree River. To get here, rent your own wheels or join a day tour.

Cape Tribulation Area

1Sights

1Bat HouseC2

2Daintree Discovery CentreB6

3Daintree RainforestB3

2Activities, Courses & Tours

4Cape Tribulation Wilderness CruisesC4

5Daintree Rainforest ToursB4

6Ocean SafariC2

4Sleeping

7Cape Trib Beach HouseC1

8Cape Tribulation CampingC2

9Daintree Rainforest BungalowsC6

10Epiphyte B&BB6

Ferntree Rainforest ResortC2

11Heritage LodgeB4

12Lync-Haven Rainforest RetreatB5

13PK's Jungle VillageC2

14Rainforest HideawayC2

15Thornton Beach BungalowsC4

5Eating

16Cow Bay HotelB6

17Daintree Ice Cream CompanyB5

18Mason's Store & CafeC2

SandbarC2

19Thornton Beach KioskC4

20WhetC2

7Shopping

21Rainforest VillageB5

Information

Mason's StoreC2

North to Cooktown

There are two routes to Cooktown from the south: the coastal route from Cape Tribulation via the 4WD-only Bloomfield Track, and the inland route, sealed all the way via the Mulligan Hwy.

At the southeastern edge of Cape York Peninsula, Cooktown is a small place with a big history: for thousands of years, Waymbuurr was the place the local Guugu Yimithirr and Kuku Yalanji people used as a meeting ground, and it was here that on 17 June 1770, Lieutenant (later Captain) Cook beached the Endeavour, which had earlier struck a reef offshore from Cape Tribulation. Cook's crew spent 48 days here repairing the damage, making Cooktown Australia’s first (albeit transient) non-Indigenous settlement.

Today, it's a hotspot for history hounds, work-hungry Willing Workers on Organic Farms (WWOOFers), and those for whom happiness is a fishing rod and an esky of coldies.