Northwest Victoria
Northwest Victoria
Why Go?
The mighty Murray River is Australia’s longest and most important inland waterway, and arrayed along its banks are some of Victoria's most captivating towns. It’s a stirring place of wineries and orchards, bush camping, balmy weather and river red gum forests. The Murray changes character constantly along its 2400km route. Here, history looms large in towns such as Echuca, food and wine dominate proceedings around Mildura, and national parks enclose soulful desert expanses in the far northwest. It's a world of picturesque river beaches, of paddle steamers that were once the lifeblood of Victoria's inland settlements, and of unending horizons that serve as a precursor to the true outback not far away. It's an intriguing, if relatively far-flung mix, one that enables you to follow in the footsteps of some of Australia’s earliest explorers who travelled along the river.
When to Go
AAnytime The Murray region, especially Mildura, enjoys year-round sunshine.
ASep–Nov Spring sees some of the best local festivals, without the heat.
AFeb–Mar A good time for camping by the river after the holiday crowds have left.
Best Places to Eat
Best Places to Stay
Northwestern Victoria Highlights
1 Relaxing on a houseboat and dining out on ‘Feast Street’ in sunny Mildura.
2 Riding an original paddle steamer down the Murray for lunch at a winery in Echuca.
3 Exploring Echuca's past in the new discovery centre, old wharf area and historic Murray Esplanade in the Port of Echuca.
4 Spotting the many species of waterbirds at beautiful Hattah-Kulkyne National Park.
5 Taking the kids on a trip back in time at the Pioneer Settlement in Swan Hill.
6 Taking a boat ride amid the river red gums of Barmah National Park.
7 Disappearing in remote Wyperfeld National Park and discovering the vastness of the Mallee.
Mildura
Pop 30,647
Sunny, sultry Mildura is something of an oasis amid some really dry country, a modern town with its roots firmly in the grand old pastoralist era. Its other calling cards include art deco buildings and some of the best dining in provincial Victoria. The hinterland, too, is worth exploring, from the nearby wilderness national parks to Murray River activities that include fishing, swimming, canoeing, waterskiing, houseboating, taking a paddle-steamer cruise or playing on riverside golf courses. The weather up here is very much blue sky – you can expect warm, sunny days even in midwinter.
Mildura
1Top Sights
4Sleeping
5Eating
3Entertainment
7Shopping
1Sights
oRio Vista & Mildura Arts CentreHISTORIC BUILDING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5018 8330; www.milduraartscentre.com.au; 199 Cureton Ave; h10am-5pm)F
The grand homestead of William B Chaffey (one of Mildura's founders), the historic Queen Anne–style Rio Vista has been beautifully preserved and restored. Each room is set up as a series of historical displays depicting colonial life in the 19th century, with period furnishings, costumes, photos and a collection of letters and memorabilia.
The Mildura Arts Centre, in the same complex, combines a modern-art gallery with changing exhibitions and a theatre.
oOld Mildura HomesteadHISTORIC SITE
( GOOGLE MAP ; Cureton Ave; admission by donation; h9am-6pm)
Along the river near Rio Vista, this cottage was the first home of William B Chaffey. The heritage park here contains a few other historic log buildings and has picnic and barbecue facilities.
Old Psyche Bend Pump StationHISTORIC SITE
(%03-5024 5637; Kings Billabong; adult/family $3/8; h1-4pm Tue & Thu, 10.30am-noon Sun)
This station is where Chaffey set up his system to supply irrigation and drainage over 115 years ago. (The modern pumps are electric now and have been placed a bit further up the river.) You can walk around the old centrifugal pumps and Chaffey’s triple-expansion steam-engine pump. The station is within Kings Billabong, a pretty nature reserve on the Murray floodplain about 8km southeast of the town centre.
Apex BeachBEACH
About 3km northwest of the centre, with a sandy river beach on the Murray, is this popular swimming and picnic spot. There’s a good walking and cycling track from here to the Old Mildura Homestead.
2Activities
Paddle-steamer cruises depart from the Mildura Wharf, with most going through a lock – you'll be able to see the gates opening and the water levels changing.
PS MelbourneBOAT TOUR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5023 2200; www.paddlesteamers.com.au; 2hr cruise adult/child $30/14; h10.50am & 1.50pm)
One of the original paddle steamers, and the only one still driven by steam power – watch the operator stoke the original boiler with wood. On Friday and Saturday this cruise is aboard the PV Rothbury.
PV RothburyBOAT TOUR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5023 2200; www.paddlesteamers.com.au; winery cruise adult/child $75/35, dinner cruise $70/35, lunch cruise $35/17; h11.30am Tue, 10.30am & 7pm Thu)
The fastest of the river boats, it offers a five-hour winery cruise from 10.30am on Thursday, with a visit to Trentham Estate Winery and a barbecue lunch at Kings Billabong. It also has three-hour dinner cruises on Thursday and a 3½-hour Tuesday lunch cruise to Gol Gol Hotel, where you buy your own meal.
TTours
A standout is the extraordinary and ancient natural formations of Mungo National Park (in NSW). Several operators run tours out there, focusing on its culture, its 45,000 years of history and its wildlife.
oHarry Nanya ToursCULTURAL TOUR
(%03-5027 2076; www.harrynanyatours.com.au; tours adult/child $180/110, tag along in your own car $90/45)S
Indigenous guide Graham Clarke keeps you enchanted with Dreaming stories and his deep knowledge and understanding of the Mungo region. In summer (November to March) there’s a spectacular sunset tour.
Mungo National Park ToursTOUR
(%0408 147 330, 1800 797 530; www.murraytrek.com.au; day/sunset tour $145/175)
Small-group day and sunset tours to Mungo led by the experienced Trevor Hancock.
Discover Mildura ToursTOUR
(%03-5024 7448; www.discovermildura.com.au; tours per person $150-165)
The guided tours here cover wine tasting, Mungo National Park or farm visits.
Moontongue Eco-AdventuresKAYAKING
(%0427 898 317; www.moontongue.com.au; kayak tours $35-65)S
A sunset kayaking trip is a great way to see the river and its wildlife. Local guide Ian will tell you about the landscape and bird life as you work those muscles in the magnificent, peaceful surroundings of Gol Gol Creek and the Murray.
Wild Side OutdoorsADVENTURE TOUR
(%03-5024 3721, 0428 242 852; www.wildsideoutdoors.com.au)S
Wild Side is an ecofriendly outfit offering a range of activities, including a sunset kayaking tour at Kings Billabong (adult/child $35/15) and a six-hour 4WD tour into Hattah-Kulkyne National Park (adult/child $85/30). It also has canoe/kayak/mountain-bike hire for $30/20/20 per hour.
MILDURA'S WATERFRONT
Mildura has not, in modern times at least, always taken full advantage of its riverfront location, with the lovely river frontage of historic Mildura Wharf, now a mooring for paddle steamers, seemingly cut off from the rest of the town. That's about to change, with an ambitious redevelopment plan to connect the restaurant precinct of Langtree Ave with the waterfront using parkland and walking trails. There are also plans to relocate the visitor information centre to this waterfront area, although it may not happen before 2016 at the earliest.
zFestivals & Events
Mildura Wentworth Arts FestivalART
(www.artsmildura.com.au; hFeb-Mar)
Magical concerts by the river, in the sandhills and all around.
Mildura Country Music FestivalMUSIC
(www.milduracountrymusic.com.au; hSep-Oct)
Ten days of free concerts in late September and/or early October.
Mildura Jazz, Food & Wine FestivalMUSIC
(www.artsmildura.com.au/jazz; hOct-Nov)
Traditional bands, great food, good wine. Held in October or November.
4Sleeping
Apex RiverBeach Holiday ParkCARAVAN PARK
(%03-5023 6879; www.apexriverbeach.com.au; Cureton Ave; unpowered/powered sites $34/39, cabins $75-125; aW)
Thanks to a fantastic location on sandy Apex Beach, just outside town, this bush park is always popular – prices are 25% higher during school holidays. There are campfires, a bush kitchen, barbecue area, boat ramp, good swimming and a cafe.
Oasis BackpackersHOSTEL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5022 8200, 0401 344 251; www.milduraoasisbackpackers.com.au; 230-232 Deakin Ave; dm/d per week $160/340; aiWs)
Mildura is a big destination for travellers looking for fruit-picking work, so most of the city’s half-dozen hostels are set up with them in mind. Oasis is Mildura’s best-equipped backpacker hostel, with a great pool and patio bar area, ultramodern kitchen and free internet. The owners can organise plenty of seasonal work. Minimum one-week stay.
oQuality Hotel Mildura GrandHOTEL
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5023 0511, 1800 034 228; www.qualityhotelmilduragrand.com.au; Seventh St; s/d incl breakfast from $85/130; aWs)
The standard rooms at the Grand aren’t the most luxurious in town, but staying at this landmark hotel – Mildura's top address – gives you the feeling of being part of something special. Although cheaper rooms in the original wing are comfortable, go for one of the stylish suites with private spa.
Many rooms open onto a delightful courtyard garden, and there’s a gym, pool and spa.
oIndulge ApartmentsAPARTMENT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %1300 539 559, 03-5018 4900; www.indulgeapartments.com.au; 150 Langtree Ave; studio $149, 1/2-bedroom apt $175/265; a)
These stunning contemporary apartments in the centre of town could be Mildura's best, with polished floors, plenty of floor space and excellent facilities. It has a couple of other locations around town if the Langtree Ave property is full.
Pied-à-TerreB&B
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5022 9883; www.piedaterre.com.au; 97 Chaffey Ave; d $175, per night extra adult/child $25/15; aW)
It’s French for 'a home away from home', but we doubt home ever looked this good! Five stylish and luxurious bedrooms sleep up to 10 people, with all amenities including free wi-fi, boat and car parking and a barbecue area.
MILDURA HOUSEBOATS
Staying on a houseboat is bliss. The Mildura region has over a dozen companies that hire houseboats, ranging from two- to 12-berth boats and from modest to luxurious. Most have a minimum hire of three days, and prices increase dramatically in summer and during school holidays. Most operators are located just across from Mildura Wharf in Buronga.
Acacia HouseboatsHOUSEBOAT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %1800 085 500, 03-5022 1510; www.murrayriver.com.au/acacia-houseboats-949/fleet; 3 nights $525-1800)
Has five houseboats, ranging from four to 12 berths, with everything supplied, except food and drink.
Mildura HouseboatsHOUSEBOAT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %1800 800 842, 03-5024 7770; www.mildurahouseboats.com.au; 3 nights $990-3700)
Willandra has six houseboats sleeping two to 12 people. Offers gourmet and golf packages.
5Eating
Mildura’s cafe and restaurant precinct runs along Langtree Ave (otherwise known as 'Feast Street') and around the block dominated by the Grand hotel. Italian raconteur Stefano de Pieri perhaps single-handedly stamped the town on the foodie map, but others are jumping on board.
Pizza Café at the GrandPIZZA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5022 2223; www.pizzacafe.com.au; 18 Langtree Ave; pizza & pasta $15-21; h11am-11pm Mon-Sat, 11.30am-11pm Sun)
For simple and inexpensive (but stylish) family dining, with all the atmosphere of the Grand Hotel dining strip, Pizza Café is perfect. The wood-fired pizzas hit the spot and there’s a supporting cast of salads, pastas and chicken dishes.
Spanish Bar & GrillSTEAK
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5021 2377; www.spanishgrill.com.au; cnr Langtree Ave & Seventh St; mains $26-48; h6-10pm Tue-Sat)
In the Grand hotel, this place keeps it simple, with top-quality steaks and barbecue food, including kangaroo. No tapas, but it is a carnivore’s heaven.
Restaurant RendezvousFRENCH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5023 1571; www.rendezvousmildura.com.au; 34 Langtree Ave; mains $17-39; hnoon-4pm & 6pm-late Mon-Fri, 6pm-late Sat)
The warm, casual atmosphere of this long-running place that's almost swallowed up by the Grand hotel complements the perfectly prepared, Mediterranean-style seafood, grills, pastas, crepes and unusual specials.
oJim McDougall in Stefano's CellarITALIAN
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5023 0511; www.jimmcdougall.com.au; Quality Hotel Mildura Grand, Seventh St; 2/3-course lunch set menu $55/62, dinner set menu $130-175; h7-11pm Tue-Thu, noon-3pm & 7-11pm Fri & Sat)
Stefano de Pieri may no longer run the kitchen but his protege, Jim McDougall, is a fine heir to the throne. The food has broadened beyond Stefano's Italian roots to a fresh, contemporary menu that sources most of its produce locally. The menu changes with the seasons, but expect kangaroo, yabbies, Murray cod and local fruits to feature.
It’s an intimate, candlelit experience and very popular – book well in advance.
6Drinking
oMildura BreweryBREWERY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5022 2988; www.mildurabrewery.com.au; 20 Langtree Ave; hnoon-late)
Set in the former Astor cinema, in the same block as the Grand hotel, this is Mildura’s trendiest drinking hole. Shiny stainless-steel vats, pipes and brewing equipment make a great backdrop to the stylish lounge, and the beers brewed here – Honey Wheat and Mallee Bull among them – are superb. Good food, too.
The interior retains many of the sleek art deco features from the original theatre.
Dom's NightclubCLUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5021 3822; www.doms.com.au; 28 Langtree Ave; h9pm-late Sat)
The upstairs club at Dom’s, in the heart of Feast Street, attracts the after-pub crowd on a Saturday night.
WORTH A TRIP
WINERIES AROUND MILDURA
Mildura is one of Australia's most prolific wine-producing areas. If you plan on touring the region's wineries, pick up a copy of the Mildura Wines brochure from the visitor information centre, or visit www.mildurawines.com.au.
If you can't make it out to the wineries themselves, the in-town Sunraysia Cellar Door ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5021 0794; www.sunraysiacellardoor.com.au; 125 Lime Ave; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun) has tastings and sales for around 250 local wines from 22 different wineries, as well as a handful of local craft beers.
Chateau MilduraWINERY, MUSEUM
(%03-5024 5901; www.chateaumildura.com.au; 191 Belar Ave; adult/child $5/free; h10am-4pm)
Established in 1888 and still producing table wines, Chateau Mildura is part vineyard and part museum, with wine tastings and historical displays.
Nursery Ridge Estate WinesWINERY
(%03-5024 3311; www.nrewines.com.au; 8514 Calder Hwy, Red Cliffs; h10am-4.30pm Thu-Sun)
A full range of reds and whites, around 20km south of central Mildura.
3Entertainment
SandbarLIVE MUSIC
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5021 2181; www.thesandbar.com.au; cnr Langtree Ave & Eighth St; hnoon-late Tue-Sun)
On a balmy evening locals flock to the fabulous beer garden at the back of this lounge bar in a classic art deco building. Local, national, original and mainstream bands play in the front bar nightly from Thursday to Sunday.
8Information
Mildura Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %1800 039 043, 03-5018 8380; www.visitmildura.com.au; cnr Deakin Ave & 12th St; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun)
There’s a free service for booking accommodation, interesting displays, local produce, a cafe, library, swimming centre and very helpful staff who book tours and activities.
8Getting There & Away
Mildura is 542km northwest of Melbourne along the Calder Highway (A79).
Air
Mildura AirportAIRPORT
(MQL; %03-5055 0500; www.milduraairport.com.au)
Victoria’s busiest regional airport, Mildura airport is about 10km west of the town centre, off the Sturt Hwy.
Regional Express AirlinesAIRLINE
(Rex; %13 17 13; www.regionalexpress.com.au)
Flies between Mildura and Melbourne, Sydney, Adelaide and Broken Hill.
Bus & Train
Long-distance buses operate from the V/Line bus depot at the train station on Seventh St, but there are currently no direct passenger trains to or from Mildura.
V/LineTRAIN, BUS
(%1800 800 007; www.vline.com.au)
V/Line has a train-bus service to/from Melbourne ($45.50, 7½ hours, four daily) via Bendigo or Swan Hill. V/Line’s Murraylink is a daily bus service connecting Mildura with towns along the Murray: Swan Hill ($27.20, three hours, three daily), Echuca ($37.20, six hours, one daily) and Albury-Wodonga ($46.40, 11 hours, one daily).
WORTH A TRIP
NATIONAL PARKS OF NORTHWESTERN VICTORIA
Occupying the relatively vast northwestern corner of Victoria, the Mallee appears as a flat horizon and endless, undulating, twisted mallee scrub and desert. The attractions – other than the sheer solitude – are the semi-arid wilderness areas, which are particularly notable for their abundance of native plants, spring wild flowers and birds. This is ‘Sunset Country’, the one genuinely empty part of the state. Nature lovers might delight in it, but much of it is inaccessible to all but experienced 4WD enthusiasts. Like most outback areas, visiting here is best avoided in the hot summer months.
The following are the main national parks in the area. For more information, contact Parks Victoria (%13 19 63; www.parkweb.vic.gov.au).
AHattah-Kulkyne National Park The most accessible of the Mallee parks, with more than 20 lakes, Murray River frontage lined with red gum, black box, wattle and bottlebrush, and dry, sandy mallee-scrub country. There are nature drives, cycling tracks and campsites. The main access road is from Hattah, 70km south of Mildura on the Calder Hwy. The Hattah-Kulkyne National Park visitor cente (%03-5029 3253) is at the park entrance.
AWyperfeld National Park Vast but accessible park of river red gum, mallee scrub, dry lake beds, sand plains, a carpet of native wild flowers in spring, over 200 bird species, two camping grounds and a network of walking and cycling tracks. Access is from Patchewollock, Hopetoun, Underbool or Rainbow.
ABig Desert Wilderness Park West of Wyperfeld, along the South Australian border, it has no roads, facilities or water. Walking and camping are permitted, but only for the experienced and totally self-sufficient.
AMurray-Sunset National Park Stunning 6330 sq km of mallee woodland and pink lakes, reaching from the river red gums of Lindsay Island down to Underbool. Most of the park is remote 4WD-only territory and the easiest access is from Underbool.
Swan Hill
Pop 9894
Swan Hill is a sleepy river town without the tourist hype of Mildura and Echuca, but with some appeal nonetheless. The riverside Pioneer Settlement is one of the best open-air museums in Victoria and the town has some good places to eat. While you wouldn't cross the state to come here, it makes an ideal stopover as you meander along the Murray.
1Sights & Activities
The Burke & Wills Tree, an enormous Moreton Bay fig tree planted to commemorate the explorers as they passed through Swan Hill on their ill-fated journey, is located on Curlewis St.
Pioneer SettlementMUSEUM
(%03-5036 2410; www.pioneersettlement.com.au; Monash Dr, Horseshoe Bend; adult/child/family $28/20.50/76.50; h9.30am-4pm)
Swan Hill’s main tourist attraction is a fun re-creation of a riverside port town of the paddle-steamer era. The settlement’s displays include the restored PS Gem, one of Australia’s largest riverboats, a great collection of old carriages and buggies, an old-time photographic parlour, an Aboriginal keeping place, a lolly shop, a school classroom and the fascinating Kaiser Stereoscope. The paddle steamer PS Pyap (adult/child/family $22/15/59; hcruises 2.30pm daily, also 10.30am on weekends & school holidays) makes short cruises along the Murray.
Every night at dusk the 45-minute sound-and-light show (adult/child/family $22/15/59) entails a dramatic journey through the settlement in an open-air transporter. A combined package for cruise and show reduces the cost.
Swan Hill Regional Art GalleryGALLERY
(%03-5036 2430; www.swanhillart.com; Monash Dr, Horseshoe Bend; admission by donation; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun)
Opposite Pioneer Settlement, this gallery has a permanent collection of more than 300 pieces, focusing on the works of contemporary and local artists.
zFestivals & Events
Swan Hill Food & Wine FestivalFOOD, WINE
(www.swanhillfoodandwine.com.au; hMar)
Foodies will love this early March festival, which celebrates local producers. The quality is high.
4Sleeping & Eating
Riverside Caravan ParkCARAVAN PARK
(%03-5032 1494, 1800 101 012; www.big4.com.au; 1 Monash Dr; unpowered/powered sites from $31/35, cabins $105-170)
On the banks of the Murray, close to Pioneer Settlement, this park enjoys a fabulous central location. There’s a good range of cabins, but prices soar by more than 50% in holiday periods.
Travellers Rest Motor InnMOTEL
(%03-5032 9644; www.bestwestern.com.au/travellersrest; 110 Curlewis St; d from $133; aWs)
Sitting in the shade of the Burke and Wills Tree, rooms here are spacious and comfortable, with the usual motel accompaniments. There’s a heated spa and outdoor pool.
oSpoons Riverside CaféMODERN AUSTRALIAN
(%03-5032 2601; www.spoonsriverside.com.au; 125 Monash Dr, Horseshoe Bend; lunch mains $9.50-25, dinner $26-35; h8am-5pm Sun-Wed, to 11pm Thu-Sat)
The riverside location alone is enough to lure you to this licensed cafe, which offers a big timber deck overlooking the Marraboor River and Pioneer Settlement. As well as light lunches and innovative dinners (in which fresh local ingredients take centre stage), there’s a providore selling fresh produce and gourmet hampers.
Java SpiceTHAI
(%03-5033 0511; www.javaspice.com.au; 17 Beveridge St; mains $21-32; hnoon-2pm & 6pm-late Fri & Sun, 6pm-late Tue-Thu & Sat; v)
Dining under open-sided thatched and teak-wood huts in a tropical garden, you’ll think you’ve been transported to Southeast Asia. The authentic cuisine is predominantly Thai, with some Malaysian and Indonesian influences mixed in. There's a takeaway version in the town centre (%03-5033 0015; 24 McRae St).
8Information
Swan Hill Region Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(%1800 625 373, 03-5032 3033; www.swanhillonline.com; cnr McCrae & Curlewis Sts; h9am-5pm)
Helpful maps and brochures on the region.
8Getting There & Away
Swan Hill is 338km northwest of Melbourne, travelling via Bendigo and Kerang. It sits on the Murray Valley Hwy (B400), 218km from Mildura and 156km from Echuca.
V/LineTRAIN, BUS
(%1800 800 007; www.vline.com.au)
Runs trains between Melbourne and Swan Hill ($36.60, four hours, three to four daily) and some train and coach services with a change at Bendigo. There are daily V/line coaches to Mildura ($27.20, three hours) and Echuca ($16.80, two hours).
Echuca
Pop 12,613
One of the loveliest towns in rural Victoria, Echuca is the state's paddle-steamer capital and a classic Murray River town, bursting with history, nostalgia and, of course, riverboats. The Aboriginal name translates as ‘meeting of the waters’, as it’s here that three great rivers meet – the Goulburn, Campaspe and Murray. The highlight is unquestionably the historic port area and the rivers themselves, best enjoyed on a riverboat cruise or a sunset stroll as cockatoos and corellas screech overhead.
Echuca
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
1Sights
Ask at Echuca Visitors Centre for the Heritage Walk Echuca brochure, which outlines a self-guided walking itinerary taking in the town centre's historic buildings.
Echuca’s star attraction is the historic Port of Echuca. Everything is original – you’re exploring living history as you walk along the pedestrian-only Murray Esplanade, which you can wander for free.
oPort of Echuca Discovery CentreMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5481 0500; www.portofechuca.org.au; 74 Murray Esplanade; adult/chil $11/8; h9am-5pm )
At the northern end of Murray Esplanade, the stunning new Port of Echuca Discovery Centre is your gateway to the Echuca Wharf area, with excellent displays (some of them interactive) on the port's history, the paddle steamers and the riverboat trade. Guided tours set out from the discovery centre twice daily.
The wharf was built with three tiers because of the changing river levels; there are gauges marking the highest points. Original features include the sawmill and a selection of old paddle steamer rudders.
Red Gum WorksHISTORIC SITE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Murray Esplanade; admission free; h9am-4pm)F
At Red Gum Works you can watch woodturners and blacksmiths at work with traditional equipment, and purchase red-gum products.
Sharp's Magic Movie House & Penny ArcadeHISTORIC BUILDING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5482 2361; 43 Murray Esplanade; adult/child/family $15/10/45; h9am-5pm)
This place has authentic penny-arcade machines and free fudge tasting. The movie house shows old movies such as Buster Keaton or Laurel and Hardy classics.
St Anne'sWINERY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5480 6955; www.stanneswinery.com.au; 53 Murray Esplanade; h10am-6pm)
There are free tastings of local wines at St Anne's. Taste the range of ports, aged in bourbon and rum barrels.
oNational Holden MuseumMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5480 2033; www.holdenmuseum.com.au; 7 Warren St; adult/child/family $7/3/16; h9am-5pm)
Car buffs should check out this museum dedicated to Australia’s four-wheeled icon, with more than 40 beautifully restored Holdens, from FJ to Monaro, as well as racing footage and memorabilia.
Great Aussie Beer ShedMUSEUM
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5480 6904; www.greataussiebeershed.com.au; 377 Mary Ann Rd; adult/child/family $12/5/25; h9.30am-5pm Sat, Sun & holidays)
This is a wall-to-wall shrine of over 17,000 beer cans in a huge shed. It’s the result of 30 years of collecting – one dates back to Federation. Guided tours will take you through the history of beer. Very Aussie.
2Activities
Paddle-steamer Cruises
A paddle-steamer cruise here is almost obligatory. There are five operating – wood-fired, steam-driven and with interesting commentary – at one time or another. Buy tickets from the Port of Echuca Discovery Centre, Echuca visitor centre or at sales points along Murray Esplanade. Check the timetables for lunch, dinner, twilight and sunset cruises.
PS Alexander ArbuthnotCRUISE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5482 4248; www.echucapaddlesteamers.net.au; 1hr cruise adult/child/family $24/10/62.50)
One-hour cruises aboard this 1923-built steamer, with less regular two-hour twilight trips, or 2½-hour dinner cruises.
PS CanberraCRUISE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5482 5244; www.emmylou.com.au; adult/child/family $24/10/65)
One-hour cruises aboard this lovely old steamer that was built in 1912 and restored in 2003.
PS EmmylouCRUISE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5482 5244; www.emmylou.com.au; 1hr cruise adult/child/family $27.50/13/75, 2hr cruise $35/16/87.50)
One of the most impressive boats in Echuca, fully restored and driven by an original engine. Offers two one-hour cruises and one two-hour cruise daily, plus lunch, dinner and overnight cruises. The three-hour dinner cruise costs $130/55 per adult/child.
PS PevenseyCRUISE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %1300 942 737, 03-5482 4248; www.echucapaddlesteamers.net.au; adult/child/family $24/10/62.50)
Star of the TV miniseries All the Rivers Run and one of the oldest paddle steamers (1911) still running, the PS Pevensey offers one-hour cruises up to five times daily.
PS Pride of the MurrayCRUISE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5482 5244; www.murraypaddlesteamers.com.au; adult/child/family $24/10/65)
One-hour cruises.
COMBINATION TICKETS
Echuca's attractions can be grouped together in a series of combination tickets that can save you both time and money.
Heritage Package (adult/child/concession/family $50/23/44/120) Includes admission to the Port of Echucha Discovery Centre, the National Holden Museum, the Great Aussie Beer Shed, the Echuca Historical Museum ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5480 1325; www.echucahistoricalsociety.org.au; 1 Dickson St; adult/child $5/1; h11am-3pm) and a one-hour paddle-steamer cruise.
Discovery Centre & One-Hour Cruise Package (adult/child/concession/family $34.50/16/28.50/96) Includes all-day access to the historic port area (guided tours offered at 11.30am and 1.30pm) and a one-hour cruise aboard any of the paddle steamers, except the PS Emmylou.
Riverboat Discovery Package (adult/child/family $38/19/108.50) A 1½-hour cruise aboard the PS Emmylou, plus all-day entry to the Port of Echuca Discovery Centre.
Wharf to Winery Package (per person $69.50) Paddle-steamer cruise to Morrisons Winery, two-course lunch and wine tasting.
Horse Riding
Billabong RanchHORSE RIDING
(%03-5483 5122; www.billabongranch.com.au; 1/2/3hr ride $55/100/145)
This ranch offers rides through the bush and along the Murray and Goulburn Rivers from its base, 12km east of Echuca. It also has minigolf, pedal boats, an animal nursery, tenpin bowling, a playground, cafe, bar and pony rides.
Water Sports
Echuca Boat & Canoe HireBOATING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5480 6208; www.echucaboatcanoehire.com; Victoria Park Boat Ramp)
Hires out motor boats (one/two hours $40/60), ‘barbie boats’ with on-board BBQs (10 people from $100/150), kayaks ($16/26) and canoes ($20/30). Multi-day, self-guided ‘campanoeing’ trips, where you can arrange to be dropped upstream and canoe back, are also available.
River Country AdventoursCANOEING
(%0428 585 227; www.adventours.com.au; half/full/2-day safaris $55/88/245)
For organised canoe safaris on the Goulburn River, this Kyabram-based team is the expert in this part of the world. It has canoe and camping safaris around the Barmah and Goulburn regions, as well as on the Murray.
TTours
Echuca Moama Wine ToursWINERY
(%1300 798 822; www.echucamoamawinetours.com.au; tours from $95; hTue-Sun)
Tours include the historic port, a cruise along the Murray and local wineries.
zFestivals & Events
Check the online event calendar at www.echucamoama.com.
Riverboats Music FestivalMUSIC
(www.riverboatsmusic.com.au; hFeb)
Music, food and wine by the Murray. Held in late February. Recent performers include Tim Finn, Archie Roach and Colin Hay.
Echuca-Moama Winter Blues FestivalMUSIC
(www.winterblues.com.au; hJul)
Blues and folk musos play in the streets and at venues around town at this weekend festival in late July.
4Sleeping
About 5km east of town, Christies Beach is a free camping area on the banks of the Murray. There are pit toilets, but bring water and firewood.
For the contact details of five B&B options, pick up a copy of Echuca Moama - Traditional Bed & Breakfasts from the tourist office, or visit www.echucabandbs.com.
Echuca GardensHOSTEL, GUESTHOUSE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0419 881 054, 03-5480 6522; www.echucagardens.com; 103 Mitchell St; dm $30, wagon $80-160, guesthouse $110-200; piW)
Run by inveterate traveller Kym, this enjoyable place is part YHA hostel and part guesthouse, all set in beautiful gardens with ponds, statues, chickens and fruit trees. The 140-year-old workers cottage has bunk beds, smart bathrooms, a country kitchen and a TV room. The cute ‘gypsy wagons’ in the garden offer unique accommodation, complete with en suite and kitchenette.
Steampacket B&BB&B
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5482 3411; www.steampacketinn.com.au; cnr Murray Esplanade & Leslie St; d $135-200; a)
Staying in the old port area is all part of the Echuca experience. This 19th-century National Trust–classified B&B offers genteel rooms with all the old-fashioned charm, linen, lace and brass bedstead you could want (but with air-con and flat-screen TVs, too). Ask for the large corner rooms for a view of the wharf.
The lounge room is cosy and breakfast is served on fine china.
Elinike Guest CottagesCOTTAGE
(%03-5480 6311; www.elinike.com.au; 209 Latham Rd; d incl breakfast $160-195)
These romantic little self-contained cottages are set in rambling gardens on the Murray River around 5km out of town. They blend old-world style with modern conveniences such as double spas. The lilac cottage has a glass-roofed garden room.
oAdelphi Boutique ApartmentsAPARTMENT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5482 5575; www.adelphiapartments.com.au; 25 Campaspe St; 1/2-bedroom apt from $175/360; a)
The semi-luxurious riverside accommodation here, a block back from the main street, is a good choice, especially if you're willing to pay a little more for the ones with a terrace overlooking the Campaspe River.
HIRE A HOUSEBOAT
Echuca is a great place to hire a houseboat. The Echuca visitor centre has brochures and information about houseboat operators.
Murray River HouseboatsHOUSEBOAT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5480 2343; www.murrayriverhouseboats.com.au; Riverboat Dock; 2-7 bed houseboat per week $1550-2720)
Five houseboats in the fleet, including the stunning four-bedroom Indulgence.
Rich River HouseboatsHOUSEBOAT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5480 2444; www.richriverhouseboats.com.au; Riverboat Dock; 8-bed houseboat per week $3850-6800)
The six beautiful boats here include a budget six-berth and a couple of floating palaces.
5Eating
oFish in a FlashFISH & CHIPS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5480 0824; 602 High St; fish & chips from $8.90; h11am-8pm)
Consistently ranked among the best fish-and-chip places in Victoria, Fish in a Flash does occasional river fish as well as the usual suspects, all dipped in the owner's secret batter. Great for a riverside picnic.
Beechworth BakeryBAKERY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %1300 233 784; www.beechworthbakery.com.au; 513 High St; mains $5-12; h6am-6pm)
In a magnificent old building with wraparound balcony and deck overlooking the Campaspe River, this cheerful bakery prepares breads, pies, cakes and sandwiches.
oShebani'sMEDITERRANEAN
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5480 7075; 535 High St; mains $12-22; h8am-4pm )
This wonderful addition to Echuca's eating scene is like taking a culinary tour of the Mediterranean – Greek, Lebanese, even North African all get a run with subtle flavours. The decor effortlessly brings together Mediterranean tile work, Moroccan lamps and a fresh Aussie-cafe style.
CeresEUROPEAN
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5482 5599; www.ceresechuca.com.au; 554 High St; lunch $14-27, dinner $26-38; h10am-late Mon-Fri, 9am-late Sat & Sun)
In a beautifully converted 1881 brick flour mill, Ceres oozes style with its high-back leather chairs, starched tablecloths and occasional couches. It’s actually a relaxed place for lunch, with all-day coffee and tapas, but there’s an atmospheric fine-dining evening restaurant with an innovative menu of Italian-influenced pastas, steaks and roast duckling.
Star HotelBISTRO
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5480 1181; www.starhotelechuca.com.au; 45 Murray Esplanade; mains $13-26, pizzas $19-23; h8am-2pm & 6pm-late Wed-Sun)
The historic ‘Star Bar’ is one of the liveliest places in town for a meal or drink, especially on weekends when there’s live music. Full cooked breakfasts and a reasonably priced lunch of calamari or chicken parma can be enjoyed right beside the port, but its wood-fired pizzas are easily the best in town.
6Drinking
Bordello Wine BarWINE BAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5480 6902; www.rivergalleryinn.com.au; 578 High St; h5-11pm Thu-Sun)
Ideal for fine local wines, a fabulous range of 65 world beers, comfy armchairs and Saturday-night live music. It's Echuca's most intimate venue.
Office 3564CAFE, WINE BAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5482 3564; 252 Hare St; h7am-midnight)
Inhabiting the old Echuca post office, this smart contemporary cafe does fabulous coffee, light lunches, sweets and excellent wines, most of them local.
8Information
Echuca Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %1800 804 446; www.echucamoama.com; 2 Heygarth St; h9am-5pm)
In the old pump station, the visitor centre has helpful staff and steamboat- and accommodation-booking services.
8Getting There & Away
Echuca lies 222km north of Melbourne. Take the Hume Fwy (M31) then the well-signposted turn off to the B75, which passes through Heathcote and Rochester en route to Echuca.
V/LineTRAIN, BUS
(%13 61 96; www.vline.com.au)
Direct Melbourne–Echuca trains on Fridays and weekends and train/bus services (return $50, 3½ hours) on weekdays, the latter with changes at Bendigo, Murchison or Shepparton.
Around Echuca
Barmah National Park
About 40km northeast of Echuca, via the Cobb Hwy in NSW, Barmah is a significant wetlands area of the Murray River floodplain. It’s the largest remaining red-gum forest in Australia and the swampy understorey usually floods, creating a wonderful breeding area for many species of fish and birds – it's one of few places in Victoria to see the superb parrot.
You can camp for free in the park, or at the Barmah Lakes camping area, which has tables, barbecue areas and pit toilets. The park entry is about 6km north of the tiny town of Barmah (turn at the pub).
2Activities
Kingfisher CruisesCRUISE
(%03-5855 2855; www.kingfishercruises.com.au; 1hr cruise adult/child/family $32/17/80,2hr cruise $37/21/100; h10.30am Mon, Wed, Thu, Sat & Sun)
From the day-use area, Kingfisher Cruises takes you out in a flat-bottom boat for an informative cruise. Your captain points out bird and mammal species along the way. Call ahead for departure times and bookings.