Monkey Mia & the Central West

Monkey Mia & the Central West

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Why Go?

The pristine coastline and sheltered turquoise waters of Malgana country draw tourists and marine life from around the world. Aside from the dolphins of Monkey Mia, the submerged sea-grass meadows of World Heritage–listed Shark Bay host dugongs, rays, sharks and turtles. On land, rare marsupials take refuge in remote national parks, and limestone cliffs, red sand and salt lakes litter a stark interior.

Further south in the land of the Nhanda people, the gorges of Kalbarri invite adventurers to explore their depths, while wildflowers carpet the plains, and ospreys wheel away from battered Indian Ocean cliffs as humpback whales migrate slowly southwards.

Veggies are ripening in Carnarvon as anglers and board riders check the tides, and windsurfers are waiting for the 'Doctor' (strong afternoon sea breeze) to blow. In Geraldton, good cafes, weekend markets and an excellent museum combine with Indian Ocean views along the city's foreshore.

When to Go

monkey-mia-ccjpg

AJun–Aug The winter swells pump the breaks off Gnaraloo and Quobba.

AAug & Sep Kalbarri erupts in wildflowers.

ANov–Feb Windsurfers clutch their sails from Geraldton to Carnarvon.

Monkey Mia & the Central West Highlights

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1 Watching the wild dolphins feed at Monkey Mia.

2 Canoeing the deep gorges of Kalbarri National Park.

3 Surfing the wild Tombstones break at Gnaraloo.

4 Driving out to the Australian mainland's most westerly tip, Steep Point.

5 Sailing out to look for dugongs in Shark Bay.

6 Immersing yourself in Malgana culture on a Wula Guda Nyinda tour at Monkey Mia.

7 Diving on ancient shipwrecks at the Houtman Abrolhos Islands.

8 Horse riding along the mighty Murchison River.

9 Spotting marine life from a coastal walk in the François Peron National Park.

a Soaking up some coffee and culture at Geraldton's museums, galleries and cafes.

8Getting There & Around

Air

Virgin AustraliaAIRLINE

(icon-phonegif%13 67 89; www.virginaustralia.com)

Perth to Geraldton.

SkippersAIRLINE

(icon-phonegif%1300 729 924; www.skippers.com.au)

Perth to Geraldton, Shark Bay and Carnarvon.

QantasAIRLINE

(icon-phonegif%13 13 13; www.qantas.com.au)

Perth to Geraldton.

Bus

IntegrityBUS

(icon-phonegif%1800 226 339; www.integritycoachlines.com.au)

Sunday, Tuesday and Thursday evening departures from Perth to Broome stopping at Geraldton, Kalbarri and Carnarvon.

TranswaBUS

(icon-phonegif%1300 662 205; www.transwa.wa.gov.au)

Buses between Perth and Kalbarri, Geraldton and Dongara along the Brand Hwy (Rte 1).

Batavia Coast

From tranquil Dongara-Port Denison to the remote, wind-scoured Zutydorp Cliffs stretches a dramatic coastline steeped in history, littered with shipwrecks and abounding in marine life. While the region proved the undoing of many early European sailors, today modern fleets make the most of a lucrative crayfish industry.

Dongara-Port Denison

Pop 3100

Pretty little Dongara and Port Denison, twin seaside towns 359km from Perth, make an idyllic spot to break up a long drive. Surrounded by beautiful beaches, walking trails and historic buildings, the towns have a laid-back atmosphere. Port Denison has good beaches and accommodation, while Dongara's main street, shaded by century-old figs, offers the best eating.

1Sights & Activities

The 12 itineraries in the free Walk Dongara Denison brochure include the Irwin River Nature Trail, where you might spot black swans, pelicans or cormorants. The Heritage Trail booklet ($2) details a 1.6km route linking buildings including 1860s Russ Cottage ( GOOGLE MAP ; Point Leander Dr), with a kitchen floor made from compacted anthills. The cells in the old police station hold the Irwin District Museum ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9927 1404; admission $2.50; icon-hoursgifh10am-noon Mon-Sat), showcasing historical displays.

Denison Beach Marina brims with crayfish boats while sunsets are dazzling from nearby Fishermens Lookout .

4Sleeping

Note that accommodation is more expensive during public and school holidays.

icon-top-choiceoDongara Breeze InnGUESTHOUSE

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9927 1332; www.dongarabackpackers.com.au; 32 Waldeck St, Dongara; dm/s/d $30/80/85)

The cheapest beds in town look onto a leafy garden at this popular lodging, which has stylish doubles with a chic Asian ambience, rustic dorms (in a vintage railway carriage) and free bike hire for guests. The shared spaces arrayed around the garden are very appealing.

Dongara Tourist ParkCARAVAN PARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9927 1210; www.dongaratouristpark.com.au; 8 George St, Port Denison; unpowered/powered sites $26/37, 1-/2-bedroom cabins $110/150; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

The best camping option has shaded, spacious sites behind South Beach. The two-bed cabins on the hill have great views, and there's a lush pergola for dining outdoors.

Dongara Old Mill MotelMOTEL

(icon-phonegif%08-9927 1200; www.dongaraoldmillmotel.com.au; 58 Waldeck St, Dongara; s/d 105/110; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

Good-value renovated rooms, friendly owners and a palm-trimmed swimming pool make this place worthy of an overnight stay. Good eating and drinking in central Dongara is a pleasant stroll away.

Port Denison Holiday UnitsAPARTMENT

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9927 1104; www.dongaraaccommodation.com.au; 14 Carnarvon St, Port Denison; d $125-135; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

These spotless, spacious, self-catering units, some with views, are just a block from the beach.

5Eating

Starfish CafeCAFE

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0448 344 215; White Tops Rd, Port Denison; mains $10-30; icon-hoursgifh8am-2pm Wed-Sun)

Hidden away in the South Beach car park, this casual snack shack offers coffee, jaffles, winter soups and summer salads.

Priory HotelPUB, BISTRO

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9927 1090; www.prioryhotel.com.au; 11 St Dominics Rd, Dongara; mains $15-42; icon-internetgifi)

There's a touch of Picnic at Hanging Rock about this leafy former nunnery and ladies college with its period furniture, polished floorboards, black-and-white photos and wide verandahs. Sundays bring roasts and wood-fired pizza, several nights offer live music and steaks are available every evening.

Dongara Hotel MotelRESTAURANT

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9927 1023; www.dongaramotel.com.au; 12 Moreton Tce, Dongara; d $145, mains $22-42; icon-hoursgifh7am-10pm; icon-wifigifW)

Locals love the Dongara's legendary servings of fresh seafood, steaks and 'Asian Corner' curries, mie goreng and phàt thai. The motel rooms, popular with corporates, are surprisingly stylish.

8Information

TelecentreINTERNET

(CRC; GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9927 2111; 11 Moreton Tce, Dongara; internet $5 per hr; icon-hoursgifh8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri; icon-internetgifi)

Internet access.

Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9927 1404; www.irwin.wa.gov.au; 9 Waldeck St, Dongara; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat)

In Dongara’s old post office.

8Getting There & Around

Dongara-Port Denison is accessible via the Brand Hwy, Indian Ocean Dr or Midlands Rd (Rte 116).

ATranswa buses run daily to Perth ($56, five hours) and Geraldton ($14, one hour). Integrity runs three times a week to Perth ($56, five hours) and Geraldton ($34, one hour), and to Exmouth ($172, 13 hours). Buses arrive and depart from the visitor centre.

For a taxi, call 9927 1555.

GREENOUGH

Located 24km south of Geraldton, the rural area of historic Greenough makes a pleasant overnight stay. Sights such as the Central Greenough Historical Settlement (icon-phonegif%08-9926 1084; www.centralgreenough.com; Brand Hwy; adult/child $6/3, cafe meals $10-28; icon-hoursgifh9am-4pm, from 10am Nov-Dec & Feb-Mar), with its handful of 19th-century buildings, and the Pioneer Museum (www.greenoughmuseum.com; Phillips Rd; adult/child $5/free; icon-hoursgifh9.30am-3.30pm) detail early settler life and offer a chance to stretch the legs, although the area's main attractions are its excellent food and lodgings. Around 2km north of Central Greenough, look out for the quirky Leaning Trees, twisted into idiosyncratic shapes by incessant Indian Ocean gusts.

Bentwood Olive Grove (icon-phonegif%08-9926 1196; www.bentwood.com.au; Brand Hwy; d $130-160; icon-swimgifs) has a long connection to gourmet food, though its focus is now on accommodation, with a beautiful stone cottage sleeping up to six.

The Transwa daily service to Geraldton will drop you on the Brand Hwy.

Geraldton

Pop 39,000

Capital of the midwest, sun-drenched 'Gero' is surrounded by excellent beaches offering myriad aquatic opportunities – swimming, snorkelling, surfing and, in particular, wind- and kitesurfing. The largest town between Perth and Darwin has huge wheat-handling and fishing industries that make it independent of the fickle tourist dollar, and seasonal workers flood the town during crayfish season. Still a work in progress, Gero blends big-city sophistication with small-town friendliness, offering a strong arts culture, a blossoming foodie scene and some great local music.

1Sights

icon-top-choiceoWestern Australian Museum – GeraldtonMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9921 5080; www.museum.wa.gov.au; 1 Museum Pl; admission by donation; icon-hoursgifh9.30am-4pm)

At one of the state's best museums, intelligent multimedia displays relate the area's natural, cultural and Indigenous history. The Shipwreck Gallery documents the tragic story of the Batavia, while video footage reveals the sunken HMAS Sydney II. Enquire about sailing open days held on the longboat moored behind the museum.

Cathedral of St Francis Xavier ChurchCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9921 3221; www.geraldtondiocese.org.au; Cathedral Ave; icon-hoursgifhtours 10am Mon & Fri, 4pm Wed)

Arguably the finest example of the architectural achievements of the multi-skilled Monsignor John Hawes. The cathedral's striking features include imposing twin towers with arched openings, a central dome, Romanesque columns and boldly striped walls.

Geraldton Regional Art GalleryGALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9964 7170; www.artgallery.cgg.wa.gov.au; 24 Chapman Rd; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm Tue-Sun)icon-freeF

With an excellent permanent collection, including paintings by Norman Lindsay and Elizabeth Durack, this gallery also presents provocative contemporary work and regular touring exhibitions.

Old Geraldton Gaol Craft CentreHISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9921 1614; Bill Sewell Complex, Chapman Rd; icon-hoursgifh10am-3.30pm Mon-Sat)

The crafts are secondary to the gloomy cells that housed prisoners from 1858 to 1986, and the historic documents that detail their grim circumstances.

HMAS Sydney II MemorialMONUMENT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.hmassydneymemorial.com.au; Mt Scott; icon-hoursgifhtours 10.30am)icon-freeF

Commanding the hill overlooking Geraldton is this memorial commemorating the 1941 loss of the Sydney and its 645 men after a skirmish with the German raider Kormoran.

2Activities

Most activities are water-based, but there is also an excellent network of bike paths, including the 10km-long coastal route from Tarcoola Beach to Chapman River. Grab the Local Travelsmart Guide from the visitor centre. Bikes can be hired from Revolutions ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9964 1399; www.revolutionsgeraldton.com.au; 2c Jensen St; bike hire per day $20; icon-hoursgifh9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat).

G-Spot XtremeWINDSURFING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9965 5577; www.gspotxtreme.com.au; 241a Lester Ave; hire per day windsurfers from $100, kayaks 2/4 hours from $30/45; icon-hoursgifh10am-4pm Tue-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat)

Hire or buy windsurfing and kiteboarding equipment and kayaks.

Batavia Coast Dive AcademyDIVING

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9921 4229; www.facebook.com/bataviacoastdive; 118 Northwest Coastal Hwy; local dives with/without equipment $140/100; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat, 10am-noon Sun)

Offers open-water courses (full PADI $630) and a range of diving trips, including chartered trips to the Houtman Abrolhos Islands (from $300 per person per day).

Midwest Surf SchoolSURFING

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0419 988 756; http://surf2skool.com; lessons from $60, board hire $30)

Courses for absolute beginners through to advanced at Geraldton's back beach.

KiteWestKITEBOARDING

(icon-phonegif%0449 021 784; www.kitewest.com.au; coaching per hr from $50)

Kiteboarding courses, surfing lessons and paddleboarding tuition. Also 4WD camping tours and fishing, scenic and wildflower daytrips (per person from $95).

THE WILDFLOWER WAY

Inland east from Geraldton, Rte 123 leads to wheat silos, wildflowers and little one-pub towns that are a hive of activity between August and September as minibuses full of senior travellers zoom around hunting blossoms. Accommodation includes caravan parks, pubs and motels, and there are regular transport links with Transwa. In wildflower season, local visitor centres sometimes run minibuses to the best sites.

MORAWA, MINGENEW & MULLEWA

The 'three Ms' form a triangle that buzzes during wildflower season but offers limited appeal to travellers outside this time.

Morawa and Mullewa both have distinctive churches designed by Monsignor John Hawes.

Coalseam Conservation Park (www.parks.dpaw.wa.gov.au/park/coalseam; camping per person $7), 34km northeast of Mingenew on the Irwin River, has everlastings (paper daisies), a short loop walk, and ancient fossil shells embedded in the cliffs.

Mullewa is famous for its wreath flower, Lechenaultia macrantha. The town holds an annual wildflower show at the end of August.

In season, the roads heading northeast to Yalgoo are normally carpeted in everlastings.

PERENJORI

Perenjori, 360km from Perth, is a pretty town surrounded by abundant wildlife and, from July to November, stunning wildflowers. The visitor centre (icon-phonegif%08-9973 1105; www.perenjori.wa.gov.au; Fowler St; icon-hoursgifh9am-4pm Mon-Fri Jul-Oct), also home to the pioneer museum (adult/child $2/0.50), has self-drive brochures including The Way of the Wildflowers and Monsignor Hawes Heritage Trail. They can provide access to the beautiful St Joseph's Church, designed by the prolific Monsignor John Hawes.

4Sleeping

Expect price hikes for school and public holidays.

Foreshore BackpackersHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9921 3275; www.foreshorebackpackers.com.au; 172 Marine Tce; dm/s/d $30/50/70; icon-internetgifi)

This rambling central hostel is full of hidden nooks, sunny balconies and world-weary travellers. It's very close to good bars and cafes, and a good place to find a job, lift or travel buddy.

Sunset Beach Holiday ParkCARAVAN PARK

(icon-phonegif%1800 353 389; www.sunsetbeachpark.com.au; Bosley St; powered sites $38, cabins $110-145)

About 6km north of the CBD, Sunset Beach has roomy, shaded sites just a few steps from a lovely beach, and an ultramodern camp kitchen with the biggest plasma TV on the entire coast.

icon-top-choiceoOspreys Beach ChaletCOTTAGE

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0447 647 994; enerhkalm@gmail.com; 40 Bosuns Cr, Point Moore; 2 persons from $155)icon-sustainableS

Both ospreys and beach are nearby this sustainably restored cottage, which began life as a proof-of-concept project. Rainwater tanks and solar panels complement recycled materials in a restoration that doesn't skimp on comfort. There are plenty of outdoor areas and the rear native garden is a gem.

Ocean WestAPARTMENT

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9921 1047; www.oceanwest.com.au; 1 Hadda Way; 1-/3-bedroom apt from $133/213; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

Don't let the '60s brick put you off; these fully self-contained units have all been tastefully renovated, making them one of the better deals in town. The wildly beautiful back beach is just across the road.

WeelawayB&B

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9965 5232; www.weelaway.com.au; 104 Gregory St; r $100-135, 2-bedroom cottages from $165; icon-wifigifW)

Weelaway offers rooms in a heritage-listed house dating from 1862. There are formal lounge rooms, shady verandahs, and a well-stocked library, and it's all within walking distance of the centre of town.

5Eating

Free barbecues and picnic tables dot the foreshore.

Jaffle ShackCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/TheJaffleShack; 188 Marine Tce; snacks $6-12; icon-hoursgifh7.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat, to 1pm Sun)

The humble jaffle (toasted sandwich) is showcased at this rustic cafe. Fillings range from classic Aussie combos such as Vegemite and cheese, to butter chicken and raita, or Vietnamese-style pulled pork. Leave room for a Nutella one for dessert, and pop back later in the day for Gero's best ice-cream milkshakes. Damn fine coffee too.

Geraldton Fish MarketSEAFOOD

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 365 Marine Tce; icon-hoursgifh8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat)

Secure briny fresh fish and seafood for your next ad-hoc, al-fresco Aussie feast, or stock up on tasty treats including smoked fish and pickled octopus. Delicious ready-made seafood curries are good value at $14.95.

Go Health Lunch BarCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9965 5200; 122 Marine Tce; light meals around $11; icon-hoursgifh8.30am-3pm Mon-Sat; icon-internetgifi)

Vegetarians can rejoice at the choice of fresh juices and smoothies, excellent espresso, healthy burritos, lentil burgers, focaccias and other light meals from this popular lunch bar in the middle of the mall.

Culinary HQCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9964 8308; www.culinaryhq.com.au; 202 Marine Tce; lunch $14.50; icon-hoursgifh7am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat)

An eclectic gourmet menu changes weekly at this bustling providore and includes soups, baguettes and cooked meals that are also available for take-away – perfect for that hostel or campervan reheat.

icon-top-choiceoSaltdishCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9964 6030; 35 Marine Tce; breakfast $8-20, lunch $16-32; icon-hoursgifh7.30am-4pm Mon-Fri; icon-wifigifW)

The hippest cafe in town serves innovative, contemporary brekkies, light lunches and industrial-strength coffee, and screens films in its courtyard on summer evenings. Try the sweetcorn and coriander fritters. BYO wine or beer.

The ProvincialMODERN AUSTRALIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9964 1887; www.theprovincial.com.au; 167 Marine Tce; tapas $8-20, pizza $14-20, mains $20-30; icon-hoursgifh4.30pm-late Tue-Sat)

Stencil art adorns this atmospheric wine bar serving up tapas, wood-fired pizzas and more robust main courses. Try the zesty coconut prawn curry with a pint of zingy White Rabbit Belgian Pale Ale. Service can be slightly haphazard, but The Provincial has a coolly cosmopolitan vibe. Live music most Friday and Saturday nights.

6Drinking

Freemasons HotelPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9964 3457; www.thefreemasonshotel.wix.com/home#; cnr Marine Tce & Durlacher St; meals $18-33; icon-hoursgifh11am-late)

The heritage-listed Freo has been serving beer to thirsty travellers since the 1800s. Nowadays it's a popular hang-out, with live music, DJs and open-mic and trivia nights complemented by a good range of bar meals.

3Entertainment

Live-music and clubbing options include Vibe ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9921 3700; 38-42 Fitzgerald St; icon-hoursgifhfrom 11pm Thu-Sun), Breakers ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9921 8924; www.facebook.com/breakersgeraldton; 41 Chapman Rd; icon-hoursgifhfrom 9pm), Camel Bar ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9965 5500; 20 Chapman Rd), Provincial and Freemasons.There's also a cinema ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9965 0568; www.oranacinemas.com.au; cnr Marine Tce & Fitzgerald St) and theatre ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9956 6662; www.queensparktheatre.com.au; cnr Cathedral Ave & Maitland St).

7Shopping

Yamaji ArtARTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9965 3440, 0487 420 237; www.yamajiart.com; 205 Marine Tce; icon-hoursgifhvaried, call first)

A good opportunity to purchase Yamaji arts, bowls, didgeridoo and music. Opening hours can be flexible, so phone ahead.

8Information

There's free wi-fi at the library ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9956 6659; www.library.cgg.wa.gov.au; 37 Marine Tce; wi-fi 1st hr free; icon-hoursgifhfrom 9am Tue-Sat, from 1pm Sun & Mon; icon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW) and across central Geraldton.

Sun City Books & Internet CornerINTERNET

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9964 7258; 49 Marine Tce; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat; icon-internetgifi)

Internet access and second-hand books.

Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9921 3999; www.geraldtontourist.com.au; Bill Sewell Complex, Chapman Rd; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun)

Accommodation, tours and transport bookings.

8Getting There & Around

Air

Virgin Australia and Qantas both fly daily between Perth and Geraldton. Skippers flies direct to/from Carnarvon a few times weekly. The airport is 12km from Marine Tce.

Bus

Integrity runs three bus services per week linking Geraldton to Perth ($63, six hours), Carnarvon ($115, six hours) and Exmouth ($156, 11 hours). Transwa has daily inland services to Perth ($68, six hours) and thrice weekly services to Kalbarri ($28, two hours). There's also a twice-weekly service to Meekatharra ($76, seven hours). All long-distance buses leave from the old railway station ( GOOGLE MAP ; old railway station), where there is also a Transwa booking office.

Taxi

Call 131 008.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

HOUTMAN ABROLHOS ISLANDS

Better known as 'the Abrolhos', this archipelago of 122 coral islands, 60km off the coast of Geraldton, is home to amazing wildlife including sea lions, green turtles, carpet pythons, over 90 seabird species and the Tammar wallaby. Much of the flora is rare, endemic and protected, and the surrounding reefs offer great diving thanks to the warm Leeuwin Current, which allows tropical species such as Acropora (staghorn) coral to flourish further south than normal.

These gnarly reefs have claimed many ships over the years, including the ill-fated Batavia (1629), and Hadda (1877), and you can dive on the wreck sites, as well as follow a number of self-guided dive trails (see the WA Fisheries Abrolhos Islands Information Guide for details). Because the general public can't stay overnight, divers (and surfers) normally need a multi-day boat charter. If you're content with a day trip where you can bushwalk, picnic, snorkel or fish, then flying in is your best bet.

Batavia Coast Dive Academy can help get a boat together.

Shine Aviation ServicesAIRLINE

(icon-phonegif%08-9923 3600; www.shineaviation.com.au; 90min/full-day tours $175/240)

Full-day tours include a landing on the Abrolhos Islands and snorkelling.

Geraldton Air CharterAIRLINE

(icon-phonegif%08-9923 3434; www.geraldtonaircharter.com.au; Brierly Terminal, Geraldton Airport; half-/full-day tours $240/550)

Some trips include the Pinnacles to the south.

Kalbarri

Pop 2000

Magnificent red-sandstone cliffs terminate at the Indian Ocean. The beautiful Murchison River snakes through tall, steep gorges before ending treacherously at Gantheaume Bay. Wildflowers line paths frequented by kangaroos, emus and thorny devils, while whales breach just offshore, and rare orchids struggle in the rocky ground. To the north, the towering line of the limestone Zuytdorp Cliffs remains aloof, pristine and remote.

Kalbarri is surrounded by stunning nature, and there's great surfing, swimming, fishing, bushwalking, horse riding and canoeing both in town and in Kalbarri National Park. While the vibe is mostly low key, school holidays see Kalbarri stretched to the limit.

1Sights & Activities

Kalbarri has cycle paths along the foreshore, and you can ride out to Blue Holes for snorkelling, Jakes Point for surfing and fishing, and Red Bluff Beach, 5.5km away.

Lookouts along the coast are perfect for watching the sunset. Look for wildflowers along Siles Rd, River Rd and near the airport. The visitor centre publishes wildflower updates in season.

Ask at the visitor centre about other activities including quad biking, skydiving and fishing.

icon-top-choiceoKalbarri National ParkNATIONAL PARK

(per car $12)

With its magnificent river red gums and Tumblagooda sandstone, the rugged Kalbarri National Park contains almost 2000 sq km of wild bushland, stunning river gorges and savagely eroded coastal cliffs. There's abundant wildlife, including 200 species of birds, and spectacular wildflowers between July and November.

A string of lookouts dot the impressive coast south of town and the easy Bigurda Trail (8km one way) follows the cliff tops between Natural Bridge and Eagle Gorge; from July to November you may spot migrating whales. Closer to town are Pot Alley, Rainbow Valley, Mushroom Rock and Red Bluff , the latter accessible via a walking trail from Kalbarri (5.5km one way).

The river gorges are east of Kalbarri, 11km down Ajana Kalbarri Rd to the turn-off, and then 20km unsealed to a T-intersection. Turn left for lookouts over The Loop and the superb Nature's Window (1km return). Bring lots of water for the unshaded Loop Trail (8km return). Turning right at the T leads to Z-Bend with a breathtaking lookout (1.2km return) or you can continue steeply down to the gorge bottom (2.6km return). Head back to Ajana Kalbarri Rd and travel a further 24km before turning off to Hawk's Head, where there are great views and picnic tables, and Ross Graham lookout, where you can access the river. It's possible to hike 38km from Ross Graham to The Loop in a demanding four-day epic, but be warned: there are no marked trails and several river crossings.

Pelican FeedingWILDLIFE WATCHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9937 1104; icon-hoursgifh8.45am)icon-freeF

Kalbarri's most popular attraction takes place on the waterfront. Look for the compact wooden viewing area and wait for the hungry birds to rock up.

Kalbarri Boat HireCANOEING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9937 1245; www.kalbarriboathire.com; Grey St; kayak/canoe/surf cat/powerboat per hr $15/15/45/50)

Also runs four-hour breakfast and lunch canoe trips down the Murchison (adult/child $70/50).

Kalbarri AbseilCANYONING

(icon-phonegif%08-9937 1618; www.abseilaustralia.com.au; half-day abseiling $80, full-day canyoning $135; icon-hoursgifhabseiling year round, canyoning Apr-Nov)

Abseil into the sheer gorges of Kalbarri National Park, then float along the bottom on inner tubes. Canyoning includes a fairly strenuous 12km hike.

Kalbarri SandboardingSANDBOARDING

(icon-phonegif%08-9937 2377; www.sandboardingaustralia.com.au; adult/child $80/70)

Muck around on sand dunes, then go for a snorkel on these fun half-day tours.

Kalbarri Adventure ToursCANOEING

(icon-phonegif%08-9937 1677; www.kalbarritours.com.au; adult/child from $75/55)

Combine canoeing, bushwalking and swimming around the national park's Z-Bend/Loop area. Full- and half-day tours available.

Big River RanchHORSE RIDING

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9937 1214; www.bigriverranch.net; off Ajana Kalbarri Rd.; 90min trail rides $85)

Track through the beautiful Murchison River floodplain on horseback. All experience levels are catered for. Camping (per person $15) and rustic bunkhouse rooms (per person $25) available.

TTours

The visitor centre can arrange all tour bookings.

Kalbarri Air CharterSCENIC FLIGHT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9390 0999; www.kalbarriaircharter.com.au; 62 Grey St; flights $69-315)

Offers 20-minute scenic flights over the coastal cliffs, and longer flights over gorges, the Zuytdorp Cliffs, Monkey Mia and the Abrolhos Islands. The River Gorges & Coastal Cliffs tour (45 minutes, $132) is a spectacular combo.

Kalbarri Wilderness CruisesCRUISE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9937 1601; www.kalbarricruises.com; adult/child $46/25)

Informative two-hour nature cruises along the Murchison.

Reefwalker Adventure ToursWHALE WATCHING

(icon-phonegif%0417 931 091; www.reefwalker.com.au; adult/child $85/55)

Spot migrating humpbacks (from July to November). Also runs ocean fishing and sightseeing tours.

4Sleeping

Try and avoid school holidays when prices sky rocket.

Kalbarri BackpackersHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9937 1430; www.yha.com.au; cnr Woods & Mortimer Sts; dm/d $29/77, bike hire $20; icon-internetgifiicon-swimgifs)

This nice, shady hostel with a decent pool and barbecue is one block back from the beach. Bikes are available for hire.

Anchorage Caravan ParkCARAVAN PARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9937 1181; www.kalbarrianchorage.com.au; cnr Anchorage Lane & Grey St; powered sites $37, cabins with/without bathroom $100/80; icon-swimgifs)

The best option for campers, Anchorage has roomy, nicely shaded sites that overlook the river mouth.

Pelican Shore VillasAPARTMENT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9937 1708; www.pelicanshorevillas.com.au; cnr Grey & Kaiber Sts; villas $136-188; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

These modern and stylish town houses have the best view in town.

Pelican's NestMOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9937 1598; www.pelicansnestkalbarri.com.au; 45-47 Mortimer St; d $120-180; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-swimgifs)

In a quiet location a short walk from the beach, the Nest has a selection of neat motel-style rooms and good facilities.

Kalbarri Reef VillasAPARTMENT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9937 1165; www.reefvillas.com.au; cnr Coles & Mortimer Sts; units $141-195; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

One block behind the foreshore, these fully self-contained, two-storey, two-bedroom apartments face onto a palm-filled garden.

5Eating & Drinking

There are supermarkets at the two shopping centres.

Angies CafeCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9937 1738; Shop 6, 46 Grey St; meals $8-22; icon-hoursgifh7am-4pm)

Great little cafe serving fresh, tasty meals with a good selection of salads.

The Jetty Seafood ShackFISH & CHIPS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; opposite the Marina; meals $11-25, burgers $9-13; icon-hoursgifh4.30-8.30pm Mon-Sat)

Excellent fish and chips, gourmet burgers, and take-away salads (to make you feel at least slightly healthy). Pop across the road and dine at one of the outdoor picnic tables.

icon-top-choiceoGorges CaféCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9937 1200; Marina Complex, Grey St; meals $8-25; icon-hoursgifh7am-3pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat & Sun)

Just opposite the jetty with excellent breakfasts and lunches, and friendly service. Try the breakfast wrap or the lemon pepper squid. Look forward to the best coffee in town.

Black Rock CafeCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 80 Grey St; mains $15-40; icon-hoursgifh7am-10pm Tue-Sun)

Friendly service, versatile opening hours, very good seafood, and a contender for Kalbarri's best place to watch an Indian Ocean sunset.

Finlay's Fresh Fish BBQSEAFOOD

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9937 1260; 24 Magee Cres; mains $15-40; icon-hoursgifh5pm-late Tue-Sun)

Simple barbecue seafood dinners at this Kalbarri institution come with piles of chips and lashings of mayonnaise-packed salads. Don't miss the walls packed with a few decades' strata of kitsch Australiana and Oz popular culture. BYO drinks.

Kalbarri Motor HotelPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9937 1400; 50 Grey St; pizzas $22, mains $22-37)

The garden bar's our favourite spot for a sunset beer. Occasional live bands on Friday and Saturday nights.

Restaurant UpstairsMODERN AUSTRALIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9937 1033; 2 Porter St, upstairs; mains $25-44; icon-hoursgifh6pm-late Wed-Mon)

The specials board sometimes confuses culinary ambition with talent, but stick to the core menu of seafood and Asian-influenced mains, and you'll be satisfied at the classiest dining spot in town. Book ahead and ask for a spot on the verandah. Good service and a decent wine list seal the deal.

8Information

There are ATMs at the shopping centres on Grey and Porter Sts.

Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1800 639 468; www.kalbarri.org.au; Grey St; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun)

Book accommodation and tours. There's internet at the adjacent library.

8Getting There & Around

Getting to/from Perth ($80, nine hours) and Geraldton ($28, two hours) by bus is easiest with Transwa, which departs from the visitor centre. Heading to/from points further north, the only option is with Integrity, which has three departures per week heading to Exmouth ($146, 10 hours) and on to Broome. To link with these services, catch a shuttle linking Kalbarri to/from the Ajana-Kalbarri turn-off. Shuttles should be pre-booked with Integrity or via Kalbarri Backpackers.

Kalbarri Auto Centre (icon-phonegif%08-9937 1290) rents 4WDs and sedans from around $60 per day. Bikes are available from Kalbarri Backpackers and the entertainment centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9937 1105; www.kalbarripirate.com; 15 Magee Cres; per half-/full-day $10/20; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Fri-Mon & Wed).

For a taxi, call 0419 371 888.

WORTH A TRIP

HORROCKS & PORT GREGORY

The tiny seaside villages of Horrocks and Port Gregory, 92km and 68km south of Kalbarri, respectively, are as quiet as they come. Horrocks, the smaller and prettier of the two, has the dune-side Horrocks Beach Caravan Park (icon-phonegif%08-9934 3039; www.horrocksbeachcaravanpark.com.au; sites $24-33, cabins $75-100; icon-wifigifW) and good-value Beachside Cottages (icon-phonegif%08-9934 3031; www.horrocksbeachsidecottages.com; 5 Glance St, Horrocks; d $85-95). Port Gregory, on the far side of the mysterious Pink Lakes, and with a fringing reef, is great for fishing and snorkelling. Port Gregory Caravan Park (icon-phonegif%08-9935 1052; www.portgregorycaravanpark.com.au; powered sites $32, cabins $100-125) is your best choice.

Shark Bay

The World Heritage–listed area of Shark Bay, stretching from Kalbarri to Carnarvon, consists of more than 1500km of spectacular coastline, containing turquoise lagoons, barren finger-like peninsulas, hidden bays, white-sand beaches, towering limestone cliffs and numerous islands. It's the westernmost part of the Australian mainland, and one of WA's most biologically rich habitats, with an array of plant and animal life found nowhere else on earth. Lush beds of sea-grass and sheltered bays nourish dugongs, sea turtles, humpback whales, dolphins, stingrays, sharks and other aquatic life. On land, Shark Bay's biodiversity has benefited from Project Eden, an ambitious ecosystem-regeneration program that has sought to eradicate feral animals and reintroduce endemic species. Shark Bay is also home to the amazing stromatolites of Hamelin Pool.

The Malgana, Nhanda and Inggarda peoples originally inhabited the area, and visitors can take Indigenous cultural tours to learn about Country. Shark Bay played host to early European explorers and many geographical names display this legacy. In 1616, Dutch explorer Dirk Hartog nailed a pewter dinner plate (now in Amsterdam's Rijksmuseum) to a post on the island (WA's largest) that now bears his name.

8Getting There & Away

Shark Bay airport is located between Denham and Monkey Mia. Skippers Aviation flies to/from Perth six times weekly.

The closest Integrity approach for buses is the Overlander Roadhouse, 128km away on the North West Coastal Hwy. Shark Bay Car Hire (icon-phonegif%08-9948 3032, 0427 483 032; www.carhire.net.au/shuttle-service/; 65 Knight Tce, Denham; shuttle $70, car/4WD hire per day $95/185) runs a connecting shuttle (book at least 24 hours ahead).

Overlander Roadhouse to Denham

Twenty-nine kilometres along Shark Bay Rd from the Overlander Roadhouse is the turn-off for Hamelin Pool, a marine reserve with the world's best-known colony of stromatolites. These coral-like formations consist of cyanobacteria almost identical to organisms that existed 3.5 billion years ago, and through their use of photosynthesis, are considered largely responsible for creating our current atmosphere, paving the way for more complex life. There's an excellent boardwalk with information panels, best seen at low tide.

The nearby 1884 Telegraph Office (admission $5.50; icon-hoursgifhcheck at shop) houses a museum containing possibly the only living stromatolites in captivity. The Postmasters Residence has a cafe and is the office for the tiny Hamelin Pool Caravan Park (icon-phonegif%08-9942 5905; www.hamelinpoolcaravanpark.com; Hamelin Pool; unpowered/powered sites $22/27, units $90; icon-swimgifs).

Along the road you pass the turn-off for Hamelin Station (icon-phonegif%08-9948 5145; www.hamelinstationstay.com.au; sites per person $12, s/d/f $70/100/110, unit $150), which has lovely rooms in converted shearers' quarters, top-class amenities and somewhat arid camp sites. There's great bird life at the nearby waterhole.

As Shark Bay Rd swings north, you'll pass the turn-off for Useless Loop (a closed salt-mining town), Edel Land and Steep Point, the Australian mainland's most westerly tip.

The dusty former sheep station of Nanga Bay Resort (icon-phonegif%08-9948 3992; www.nangabayresort.com.au; Nanga Bay; unpowered/powered sites $25/30, dongas/motel r/huts/villas $50/165/180/250; icon-acongifaicon-swimgifs) has a range of accommodation. Some accommodation options need a spruce-up, but there's a decent on-site restaurant and access to a sparkling, arcing beach.

Inside the vermin-proof fence, and 55km from the Hamelin turn-off, is the road to deserted Shell Beach, where tiny cockle shells, densely compacted over time, were once quarried as building material for places such as the Old Pearler Restaurant in Denham.

You'll pass turn-offs to bush camp sites before reaching Eagle Bluff, which has clifftop views overlooking an azure lagoon. You may spot turtles, sharks or manta rays.

SEASIDE BUSH CAMPING

Shark Bay shire offers a choice of four coastal bush camp sites – Goulet Bluff, Whalebone, Fowlers Camp and Eagle Bluff – all 20km to 40km south of Denham in the area known as South Peron. To camp here, you must first obtain a permit ($10 per vehicle) from the Shark Bay visitor centre. While this is easily arranged via phone (if yours has any reception), in practice it's better to scope the sites first, then get the permit. There are no facilities and a one-night limit applies to the whole area.

Denham

Pop 1500

Beautiful, laid-back Denham, with its aquamarine sea and palm-fringed beachfront, makes a great base for trips to the surrounding Shark Bay Marine Park, nearby François Peron and Dirk Hartog Island National Parks, and Monkey Mia, 26km away.

Australia's westernmost town originated as a pearling base, and the streets were once paved with pearl shell.

There's a pub, a supermarket, a bakery, cafes and take-aways on Knight Tce.

1Sights & Activities

Shark Bay World Heritage Discovery CentreMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9948 1590; www.sharkbayvisit.com; 53 Knight Tce; adult/child $11/6; icon-hoursgifh9am-6pm)

Informative and evocative displays of Shark Bay's ecosystems, marine and animal life, Indigenous culture, early explorers, settlers and shipwrecks.

Little LagoonPICNIC SPOT

Little Lagoon, 4km from town, has picnic tables and barbecues. Don't be surprised if an emu wanders by.

Ocean ParkAQUARIUM

(icon-phonegif%08-9948 1765; www.oceanpark.com.au; Shark Bay Rd; adult/child $20/15; icon-hoursgifh9am-4pm)

On a spectacular headland just before town, this family-run aquaculture farm features an artificial lagoon where you can observe feeding sharks, turtles, stingrays and fish on a 60-minute guided tour. Also on offer are full-day 4WD tours to François Peron National Park ($180) and Steep Point ($350) with bushwalks and snorkelling. A new half-day tour focuses on South Peron ($75).

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

WAY OUT WEST IN EDEL LAND

The Australian mainland's westernmost tip is Steep Point , just below Dirk Hartog Island. It's a wild, wind-scarred, barren clifftop with a beauty born of desolation and remoteness. The Zuytdorp Cliffs stretch away to the south, the limestone peppered with blowholes, while leeward, bays with white sandy beaches provide sheltered camp sites. The entire area is known as Edel Land, and is a proposed national park. Anglers catch game fish from the towering cliffs, but few tourists make the 140km rough drive down a dead-end road.

Access is via Useless Loop Rd, and is controlled by the Department of Parks & Wildlife (www.parks.dpaw.wa.gov.au; entry permit per vehicle $12, sites per person $19). There is a ranger station at Shelter Bay, with camping nearby; at Steep Point (rocky and exposed); and at False Entrance to the south. Sites are limited and must be booked in advance. There is also accommodation at the Dirk Hartog Island Eco Lodge (icon-phonegif%08-9948 1211; www.dirkhartogisland.com; full board per person $290-350, min 2-night stay; icon-hoursgifhMar-Oct; icon-wifigifW). Rates include excellent gourmet seafood meals.

You'll need a high-clearance 4WD as the road deteriorates past the Useless Loop turn-off (approximately 100km from Shark Bay Rd). Tyres should be deflated to 20psi. Ensure you bring ample water and enough fuel to return to the Overlander Roadhouse (185km) or Denham (230km). During winter, a barge runs from Shelter Bay to Dirk Hartog Island (bookings essential). See www.sharkbay.org.au for details and downloadable permits. Hire-car companies will not insure for this road, though tours can be arranged from Denham. Steep Point is definitely more easily reached by boat, but that's not the Point, is it?

TTours

Shark Bay Scenic FlightsSCENIC FLIGHT

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0417 919 059; www.sharkbayair.com.au)

Flights include 15-minute Monkey Mia fly overs ($59) and a sensational 40-minute trip over Steep Point and the Zuytdorp Cliffs ($195).

Shark Bay Coaches & ToursBUS TOUR

(icon-phonegif%08-9948 1081; www.sharkbaycoaches.com.au; tours $150)

Half-day bus tours and transfers to Monkey Mia from Denham (per person $12, minimum $60).

4Sleeping

Expect school-holiday surcharges for accommodation.

Bay LodgeHOSTEL

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9948 1278; www.baylodge.info; 113 Knight Tce; dm/d from $34/100; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-swimgifs)

Every room at this YHA-associated hostel has its own en-suite, kitchenette and TV/DVD. Ideally located across from the beach, it also has a great pool, a larger common kitchen, and a free shuttle bus to Monkey Mia for guests. Beachfront units ($130) have great ocean views.

Denham Seaside Tourist VillageCARAVAN PARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9948 1242; www.sharkbayfun.com; Knight Tce; unpowered/powered sites $36/43, units $95-160; icon-acongifa)

This lovely, shady park on the water's edge is the best in town, though you will need to borrow the drill for your tent pegs. Cover up at night against the insects and ring first if arriving after 6pm.

Oceanside VillageCABIN

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9948 3003; www.oceanside.com.au; 117 Knight Tce; cabins $160-200; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

These neat self-catering cottages with sunny balconies are perfectly located directly opposite the beach.

TradewindsAPARTMENT

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1800 816 160; www.tradewindsdenham.com.au; Knight Tce; units $145-165; icon-acongifa)

Spacious, fully self-contained, modern units right across from the beach.

5Eating & Drinking

icon-top-choiceoOcean RestaurantCAFE

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.oceanpark.com.au; Shark Bay Rd; mains $26-32; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm; icon-wifigifW)

The most refined lunch in Shark Bay also comes with the best view. Inside Ocean Park, overlooking turquoise waters, you can partner beer and wine with tapas, all-day brekkies and local seafood. The platter for two people ($42) is excellent value. Fully licensed.

Old Pearler RestaurantSEAFOOD

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9948 1373; 71 Knight Tce; meals $30-53; icon-hoursgifhfrom 5pm Mon-Sat)

Built from shell bricks, this atmospheric nautical haven serves fantastic seafood. The exceptional platter features local snapper, whiting, cray, oysters, prawns and squid – all grilled, not fried. BYO drinks; bookings recommended.

Shark Bay HotelPUB

(icon-phonegif%08-9948 1203; www.sharkbayhotelwa.com.au; 43 Knight Tce; dinner $22-38; icon-hoursgifh10am-late)

Sunsets are dynamite from the front beer garden of Australia's most westerly pub.

8Information

For information, interactive maps and downloadable permits., check out www.sharkbay.org.au.

There are ATMs at Heritage Resort and Shark Bay Hotel, and internet access at the Community Resource Centre (CRC; icon-phonegif%08-9948 1787; 67 Knight Tce; icon-internetgifi).

Department of Parks & WildlifeTOURIST INFORMATION

(icon-phonegif%08-9948 2226; www.parks.dpaw.wa.gov.au; 61-63 Knight Tce; icon-hoursgifh8am-5pm Mon-Fri)

Park passes and information.

Shark Bay Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

(icon-phonegif%08-9948 1590; www.sharkbayvisit.com; 53 Knight Tce; icon-hoursgifh9am-6pm)

Accommodation, tour bookings and bush-camping permits for South Peron.

François Peron National Park

François Peron National ParkNATIONAL PARK

(per vehicle $12)

Covering the whole peninsula north of Denham is an area of low scrub, salt lakes and red sandy dunes, home to the rare bilby, mallee fowl and woma python. There's a scattering of rough camp sites alongside brilliant white beaches, all accessible via 4WD (deflate tyres to 20psi). Don't miss the fantastic Wanamalu Trail (3km return), which follows the clifftop between Cape Peron and Skipjack Point. Spot marine life in the crystal waters below.

2WD vehicles can enter only as far as the old Peron Homestead, where there's a walk around the shearing sheds, and an artesian-bore hot tub. Tours to the park start at around $180 per person from Denham or Monkey Mia. Groups should consider hiring a 4WD from Denham for the same price.

Monkey Mia

Monkey MiaBAY

(adult/child/family $8.50/3.20/17)

Watching the wild dolphins turn up for a feed each morning in the shallow waters of Monkey Mia, 26km northeast of Denham, is a highlight of every traveller's trip to the region. Watch the way they herd fish upside down, trying to trap them against the surface. The pier makes a good vantage point. The first feed is around 7.45am, but you'll see them arrive earlier. Stay around after the session, as the dolphins commonly come a second ot third time.

Note that visitors are restricted to the edge of the water, and only a lucky three people per session are selected to wade in and help feed the dolphins.

Monkey Mia Visitors Centre (icon-phonegif%08-9948 1366; icon-hoursgifh8am-4pm) has information and tours.

You can volunteer to work full time with the dolphins for between four and 14 days – it's popular, so apply several months in advance and specify availability dates, though sometimes there are last-minute openings. Contact the volunteer coordinator (icon-phonegif%08-9948 1366; monkeymiavolunteers@westnet.com.au).

TTours

Wula Guda Nyinda Aboriginal Cultural ToursCULTURAL TOUR

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0429 708 847; www.wulaguda.com.au; 90min tours adult/child from $60/30)

Learn 'how to let Country talk to you' on these excellent bushwalks led by local Aboriginal guide Darren 'Capes' Capewell. You'll pick up some local Malgana language and identify bush tucker and Indigenous medicine. The sunset 'Maru Maru Dreaming' tours (adult/child $60/30) are magical. There are also snorkelling and kayak tours (adult half-/full day $140/185) and exciting 4WD adventures ($185).

Aristocat IICRUISES

(icon-phonegif%1800 030 427; www.monkey-mia.net; 1-/2½hr tours $50/86)

Cruise in comfort on this large catamaran, and you might see dugongs, dolphins and loggerhead turtles. You'll also stop off at the Blue Lagoon Pearl Farm.

WildsightsADVENTURE TOUR

(icon-phonegif%1800 241 481; www.monkeymiawildsights.com.au)

On the small Shotover catamaran you're close to the action; 2½-hour wildlife cruises start from $89. There are also 1½-hour sunset cruises ($39) and full-day 4WD trips to François Peron National Park ($195); discounts are available for multiple trips.

4Sleeping & Eating

Monkey Mia Dolphin ResortRESORT

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1800 653 611; www.monkeymia.com.au; tent sites per person $16, van sites from $44, dm/d $30/109, garden units $229, beachfront villas $329; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

With a stunning location the only accommodation option in Monkey Mia caters to campers, backpackers, package and top-end tourists. The staff are friendly, and the backpacker 'shared en-suites' are good value, but the top-end rooms are expensive. It can also get very crowded. The restaurant has sensational water views but meals are overpriced, while the backpacker bar has cheaper food and excitable backpackers.

8Getting There & Away

There is no public transport to Monkey Mia from Denham. If you stay at Bay Lodge in Denham, you can use its shuttle but it only runs alternate days. Other options are hiring a car or bicycle, or using the shuttle from Shark Bay Coaches.

Gascoyne Coast

This wild, rugged, largely unpopulated coastline stretches from Shark Bay to Ningaloo, with excellent fishing and waves that attract surfers from around the world. Subtropical Carnarvon, the region's hub, is an important fruit- and vegetable-growing district, and farms are always looking for seasonal workers. The 760km Gascoyne River, WA's longest, is responsible for all that lushness, though it flows underground for most of the year. Inland, the distances are huge and the temperatures high; here you'll find the ancient eroded rocks of the Kennedy Range.

Carnarvon

Pop 9000

On Yinggarda country at the mouth of the Gascoyne River, fertile Carnarvon, with its fruit and vegetable plantations and thriving fishing industry, makes a pleasant stopover between Denham and Exmouth. This friendly, vibrant town has quirky attractions, a range of decent accommodation, well-stocked supermarkets and great local produce. The tree-lined CBD exudes a tropical feel, and the palm-fringed waterfront is a relaxing place to amble. The long picking season from March to January ensures plenty of seasonal work.

The last weekend of October sees the town taken over by desert drivers and riders competing in the gruelling 511km Gascoyne Dash (Gassy Dash; www.gasdash.com).

1Sights & Activities

Carnarvon's luxuriant plantations along North and South River Rds provide a large proportion of WA's fruit and veg; grab the Gascoyne Food Trail (www.gascoynefood.com.au) brochure from the visitor centre.

You can walk or ride 2.5km along the old tramway to the Heritage Precinct on Babbage Island (www.carnarvonheritage.com.au), once the city's port. One Mile Jetty ( GOOGLE MAP ; adult/child $5/free; icon-hoursgifh9am-4.30pm) provides great fishing and views; walk or take the quirky Coffee Pot Train (adult/child $10/5) to the end. The nearby Lighthouse Keepers Cottage ( GOOGLE MAP ; Heritage Precinct; icon-hoursgifh10am-1pm) has been painstakingly restored; don't miss the view from the top of the creaky water tower in the Railway Station Museum ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm).

The palm-lined walking path along the side of the Fascine (the body of water at the end of Robinson St) is a pleasant place for a sunset wander.

OTC DishLANDMARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; Mahony Ave)

Established jointly with NASA in 1966, the OTC Dish at the edge of town tracked the Gemini and Apollo space missions, as well as Halley's Comet before closing in 1987. The fascinating Carnarvon Space and Technology Museum ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.carnarvonmuseum.org.au; Mahony Ave; adult/child $7/5; icon-hoursgifh10am-2pm, shorter hours outside tourist season) is nearby, expanded in late 2014 with an interactive mock-up of a Saturn V command module.

Gwoonwardu MiaGALLERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9941 1989; wwww.gahcc.com.au; 146 Robinson St; icon-hoursgifh10am-3pm Mon-Fri)

Gwoonwardu Mia, built to depict a cyclone, represents the five local Aboriginal language groups and houses a cultural centre and art gallery. Highlights include the poignant oral testimonies from Aboriginal elders in the award-winning Burlganjya Wanggaya (Old People Talking) exhibition.

Bumbak'sFARM TOUR

(icon-phonegif%08-9941 8006; 449 North River Rd; 1hr tours $8.80; icon-hoursgifh shop 9am-4pm Mon-Fri, tours 10am Mon, Wed & Fri Apr-Oct)

Bumbak's, a working banana and mango plantation, offers tours of the plantation and sells a variety of fresh and dried fruit, preserves and yummy home-made ice cream.

4Sleeping

Most accommodation is spread out along the 5km feeder road from the highway. Try to arrive before 6pm.

Fish & WhistleHOSTEL

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9941 1704; Beardaj@highway1.com.au; 35 Robinson St; s/d/tw $50/60/60, motel r $120; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifi)

Travellers love this big, breezy backpackers with its wide verandahs, bunk-free rooms and excellent kitchen. There are air-con motel rooms out the back and the Port Hotel serving decent beer downstairs. The owners can help guests find seasonal jobs and provide transport to orchards and farms.

Coral Coast Tourist ParkCARAVAN PARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9941 1438; www.coralcoasttouristpark.com.au; 108 Robinson St; powered sites $35-45, cabins & units $75-205; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

This pleasant, shady park, with tropical pool and grassy sites, is the closest to the town centre. There's a variety of well-appointed cabins, a decent camp kitchen, and bicycles for hire.

Carnarvon Central ApartmentsAPARTMENT

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9941 1317; www.carnarvonholidays.com; 120 Robinson St; 2-bedroom apt $140; icon-acongifa)

These neat, fully self-contained apartments are popular with business travellers.

Hospitality InnMOTEL

(Best Western; GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9941 1600; www.carnarvon.wa.hospitalityinns.com.au; 6 West St; d $159-179)

The best of the motels in town. Rooms are clean and quiet and there's a nice on-site restaurant (meals $19 to $42).

5Eating

A good option to enjoy the local seafood is to cook your own on the free barbecues along the Fascine and at Baxter Park. There's also good dining at Carnarvon's handful of pubs.

Self-caterers should check out the delicious produce at the Gascoyne Arts, Crafts & Growers Market ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.gascoynefood.com.au/growers-market; Civic Centre car park; icon-hoursgifh8-11.30am Sat May-Oct). The market is proudly plastic-free, so BYO bag.

River Gums CafeCAFE

(Margaret Row, off Robinson St; burgers & salads $7-10; icon-hoursgifh10am-3pm Wed-Sun May-Oct)

Legendary choc-topped banana smoothies, top-notch burgers and home baking are served at this rustic garden cafe in the middle of a fruit plantation.

Morel's OrchardMARKET

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9941 8368; 486 Robinson St; icon-hoursgifh8.30am-5.30pm mid Apr-mid Oct)

Local fresh fruit and vegetables, as well as natural fruit ice creams. Our favourite are the frozen chocolate-dipped strawberries.

The Crab ShackSEAFOOD

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9941 4078; Small Boat Harbour; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Sat Mar-Dec)

Fill your esky with freshly steamed crabs, prawns, mussels, shucked oysters and fish fillets. Tasty crab cakes and prawn burgers are also available.

Gwoonwardu Mia Community CaféCAFE

(icon-phonegif%08-9941 3127; 146 Robinson St; snacks $12.50, juices & smoothies $7; icon-hoursgifh8am-3pm Mon-Fri)

Located in the Gwoonwardu Mia complex, this training centre for Indigenous youth serves tasty snacks – try the breakfast wrap with eggs and chorizo – and the best fruit juices in town.

8Information

ATMs are on Robinson St.

Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-9941 1146; www.carnarvon.org.au; Civic Centre, 21 Robinson St; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat; icon-internetgifi)

Information, maps and produce.

8Getting There & Around

ASkippers flies daily to Perth and weekly to Geraldton.

AIntegrity runs three times a week to Exmouth ($92, four hours), Geraldton ($115, six hours) and Perth ($167, 12 hours). Buses depart from the visitor centre.

Bikes can be hired from Coral Coast Tourist Park.

For a taxi, call 131 008.

Point Quobba to Gnaraloo Bay

While the North West Coastal Hwy heads inland, the coast north of Carnarvon is wild, windswept and desolate, a favourite haunt of surfers and fisherfolk. Not many make it this far, but those who do are rewarded by huge winter swells, high summer temperatures, relentless winds, amazing marine life, breath-snapping scenery and some truly magical experiences.

Turn down Blowholes Rd, 12km after the Gascoyne bridge, then proceed 49km along the sealed road to the coast. The blowholes (waves spraying out of limestone chimneys during a big swell) are just left of the T-intersection. Point Quobba, 1km further south, has beach shacks, excellent fishing, some gritty camp sites (Point Quobba; sites per person $11), and not much else.

Heading right from the T onto dirt, after 8km you'll come across a lonely little cairn staring out to sea, commemorating HMAS Sydney II. Two kilometres further is Quobba Station (icon-phonegif%08-9948 5098; www.quobba.com.au; unpowered/powered sites per person $13/15, cabins & cottages per person $35-60), with plenty of rustic accommodation, a small store and legendary fishing.

Still on Quobba, 60km north of the homestead, Red Bluff (icon-phonegif%08-9948 5001; www.quobba.com.au; unpowered sites per person $15, shacks per person $20, bungalows/safari retreats $180/$200) is a spectacular headland with a wicked surf break and excellent fishing, and is the southern boundary of Ningaloo Marine Park. Accommodation comes in all forms, from exposed camp sites and palm shelters, to exclusive upmarket tents with balconies and superb views. Red Bluff's first shark attack happened in 2012.

The jewel, however, is at the end of the road around 150km from Carnarvon: Gnaraloo Station (icon-phonegif%08-9942 5927; www.gnaraloo.com; unpowered sites per person $20-25, cabins d $120-180; icon-wifigifW). Surfers from around the world come every winter to ride the notorious Tombstones, while summer brings turtle monitoring and windsurfers trying to catch the strong afternoon sea breeze, the Carnarvon Doctor. There's excellent snorkelling close to shore and the coastline north from Gnaraloo Bay is eye-burningly pristine. You can stay in rough camp sites next to the beach at 3-Mile, or there's a range of options up at the homestead, the nicest being stone cabins with uninterrupted ocean views – great for spotting migrating whales (June to November) and sea eagles. Gnaraloo is dedicated to sustainability and has implemented a number of visionary environmental programs. The station is always looking for willing workers. Just be aware this is a working station in the Australian outback, not a luxury resort

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