Cairns & the Daintree Rainforest
Cairns & the Daintree Rainforest Highlights
Cairns
Cairns' Northern Beaches
Yorkeys Knob
Trinity Beach
Palm Cove
Ellis Beach
Islands off Cairns
Green Island
Fitzroy Island
Frankland Islands
Atherton Tableland
Kuranda
Atherton
Yungaburra
Lake Tinaroo
Crater Lakes National Park
Port Douglas
The Daintree
Daintree River to Cape Tribulation
Cape Tribulation
North to Cooktown
Cooktown
Cairns & the Daintree Rainforest
Why Go?
Cairns means R & R – the Reef and Rainforest. Together, they make this far-flung city an East Coast essential. Endless bus- and boatloads of eager beavers shuttle between Cairns and these World Heritage wonders, although upmarket Port Douglas is closer to the outer Reef and the Daintree Rainforest. Sultry, carefree Cairns swings between backpacker samsara and family fun-land. Head to Palm Cove or Port Douglas for upscale retreats. Inland, lush Atherton Tableland's cooler climes, lakes and waterfalls offer welcome relief from Cairns' humidity and crowds.
Highways hug scenic sections of the shoreline to Port Douglas, before meeting the mighty Daintree River's vehicular ferry. From here, the protected rainforest stretches up to Cape Tribulation, tumbling onto seductive white-sand beaches where hidden perils – marine stingers (October to May) and saltwater crocodiles (year-round) – should be taken seriously.
True-blue adventure-seekers head onwards to Cooktown on the 4WD-only Bloomfield Track.
When to Go
AMay Port Douglas pizzazz at Carnivale. Stinger season ends.
AJun Cooktown Discovery Festival's costumed reenactment of Cook’s landing.
ANov Divers delight in the reef's annual coral spawning.
Best Places to Eat
A Candy
Best Places to Stay
Cairns & the Daintree Rainforest Highlights
1 Dive, snorkel and swim among the fish, turtles and multicoloured corals of the Great Barrier Reef.
2 Take the Kuku-Yalanji Dreamtime Walk alongside the crystal-clear waters of the Mossman Gorge section of the Daintree National Park.
3 Ride the Skyrail above the rainforest to the markets of Kuranda, returning by the Kuranda Scenic Railway.
4 Indulge in life's finer pleasures in the romantic restaurants and resorts of pristine Palm Cove.
5 Savour a coldie at the iconic Lion's Den Hotel upon completion of the bone-shaking 4WD Bloomfield Track.
6 Up-close-and-personal, get educated about our ancient ancestors at Hartley's Crocodile Adventures.
7 Fish for barra on Lake Tinaroo then stopping for a coldie at Yungaburra's must-see pub.
8 Cool down amid the lush scenery of the Atherton Tablelands, stopping for a soul-quenching swim on the Millaa Millaa Waterfalls Circuit.
9 Travel back in time to Historic Village Herberton, spending the night in gorgeous Yungaburra.
a Contemplate romance, determination, true love and tragedy at the phenomenal Paronella Park.
Cairns
Pop 165,860
Gateway to the Great Barrier Reef and Daintree Rainforest UNESCO World Heritage sites, and starting point for serious 4WD treks into Cape York Peninsula's vast wilderness, Cairns (pronounced ‘Cans’) depends on tourism for survival. For many, it marks the end of a long journey up the east coast; for others, the beginning of an Aussie adventure. Whichever way you're swinging, you're bound to meet like-minded nomads.
Old salts claim Cairns – whose bars, clubs and eateries hunger for your tourist dollars – has sold its soul, but with a past life as a rollicking goldfields' port, perhaps it's long been this way. It's easy to spend your riches amid the humid, holiday vibe. Cairns' tidy CBD is more board shorts than briefcases, although there’s no beach in town. The lush, meticulously maintained Boardwalk, Esplanade and Lagoon are well loved, while the Great Barrier Reef, the northern beaches and a bottomless swag of activities are never far away.
Locals who aren't jaded by a kind of tropical tourism-malaise should welcome you with the kind of hospitality which befits an international gateway of such repute. If this isn't your experience, why not remind them what a magical place they call home?
Cairns
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
5Eating
6Drinking & Nightlife
3Entertainment
1Sights
oCairns
Esplanade, Boardwalk & LagoonWATERFRONT
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; www.cairnsesplanade.com.au;
hlagoon
6am-9pm Thu-Tue, noon-9pm Wed)
F
Sun- and fun-lovers flock to Cairns’ Esplanade's spectacular swimming lagoon on the city’s reclaimed foreshore. The artificial, sandy-edged, 4800m² chlorinated saltwater pool is lifeguard patrolled and illuminated nightly. The adjacent 3km foreshore boardwalk has picnic areas, free barbecues and fitness equipment. Families should follow it north to the play-mazing Muddy's playground.
Check the website to see what free, fun events are planned.
oReef
TeachINTERPRETIVE CENTRE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; 
%07-4031
7794; www.reefteach.com.au;
2nd fl, Main Street Arcade, 85 Lake
St; adult/child $18/9; hlectures
6.30-8.30pm Tue-Sat)
S
Take your knowledge to new depths at this fun, informative centre, where marine experts explain how to identify specific species of fish and coral, and how to approach the reef respectfully.
Tjapukai Aboriginal Cultural ParkCULTURAL CENTRE
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %07-4042
9999; www.tjapukai.com.au;
Cairns Western Arterial Rd,
Caravonica; adult/child $40/25; h9am-5pm)
Managed by the area’s original custodians, this award-winning cultural extravaganza 15km north of downtown was extensively renovated in 2015. It tells the the story of creation using giant holograms and actors. There's a dance theatre, a gallery, boomerang- and spear-throwing demonstrations and turtle-spotting canoe rides. The Tjapukai by Night dinner-and-show package (adult/child $109/59, from 7pm to 9.30pm) culminates in a fireside corroboree.
Flecker Botanic GardensGARDENS
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %07-4032
6650; www.cairns.qld.gov.au;
64 Collins Ave; hgrounds
7.30am-5.30pm daily, visitor centre 9am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2.30pm
Sat & Sun)F
The made-of-mirrors visitor centre can advise on free guided walks around these beautiful tropical gardens. Follow the Rainforest Boardwalk to Saltwater Creek and Centenary Lakes, a birdwatcher's delight. Uphill from the gardens, Mt Whitfield Conservation Park has walking tracks through rainforest climbing to viewpoints over the city.
Enquire for directions to the Mangrove Boardwalk and its two revelatory routes into the wetlands.
Crystal CascadesWATERFALLS
(via Redlynch)
About 14km from Cairns, the Crystal Cascades are a series of beautiful waterfalls and idyllic, croc-free swimming holes that locals would rather keep to themselves. The area is accessed by a 1.2km (30-minute) pathway. Crystal Cascades is linked to Lake Morris (the city's reservoir) by a steep rainforest walking trail (allow three hours return); it starts near the picnic area.
There is no public transport to the pools. Drive to the suburb of Redlynch, then follow the signs to Crystal Cascades.
Cairns Regional GalleryGALLERY
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %07-4046
4800; www.cairnsregionalgallery.com.au;
cnr Abbott & Shields
Sts; adult/child $5/free; h9am-5pm
Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat, 10am-2pm Sun)
The permanent collection of this acclaimed gallery, housed in the heritage-listed former State Government Insurance Office (1936), has an emphasis on local and Indigenous work. There's also usually a visiting exhibition.
Tanks Arts CentreGALLERY
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %07-4032
6600; www.tanksartscentre.com;
46 Collins Ave; admission
varies; h9.30am-4pm
Mon-Fri)
Three gigantic, ex-WWII fuel-storage tanks have been transformed into local galleries and an inspired performing-arts venue. Lively market days are held here on the last Sunday of the month (April to November).
Australian Armour & Artillery MuseumMUSEUM
(%07-4038
1665; ausarmour.com; 1145
Kamerunga Rd, Smithfield; adult/child
$25/15; h9.30am-4.30pm)
Military and history buffs will enjoy this, the largest display of armoured vehicles and artillery in the southern hemisphere, opened in September 2014.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
BABINDA BOULDERS & WOOROONOORAN NATIONAL PARK
On the Bruce Hwy, 60km south of Cairns, Babinda is a small working-class town that leads 7km inland to the Babinda Boulders, where a photogenic creek rushes between 4m-high granite rocks. It’s croc-free, but here lurks an equal danger: highly treacherous waters. Dreaming stories say that a young woman threw herself into the then-still waters after being separated from her love; her anguish caused the creek to become the surging, swirling torrent it is today. Almost 20 visitors have lost their lives at the boulders. Swimming is permitted in calm, well-marked parts of the creek, but pay careful heed to all warning signs. Walking tracks give you safe access for obligatory gasps and photographs.
The free Babinda Boulders Camping
Ground (two-night maximum) has toilets, cold showers and
free barbecues. Nearby, you can kayak the clear waters of Babinda
Creek with Babinda Kayak Hire
(%07-4067
2678; www.babindakayakhire.com.au;
330 Stager Rd; half-/full
day incl pickups $55/83).
Part of the Wet Tropics World Heritage Area, the rainforest of the Josephine Falls section of Wooroonooran National Park creeps to the peak of Queensland’s highest mountain, Mt Bartle Frere (1622m), providing an exclusive environment for numerous plant and animal species. The car park for Josephine Falls – a spectacular series of waterfalls and pools – is signposted 6km off the Bruce Hwy, 10km south of Babinda. It's then a steep, paved, 600m walk through the forest to the falls, at the foot of the Bellenden Ker Range.
The Mt Bartle Frere Summit Track (15km, two
days return) leads from the Josephine Falls car park to the summit.
The ascent is for fit, well-equipped hikers only; rain and cloud
can close in suddenly. Camping is permitted along the trail; book
ahead with the NPRSR (%13 74
68; www.nprsr.qld.gov.au),
and drop into the Babinda Information
Centre (%07-4067
1008; www.babindainfocentre.com.au;
cnr Munro St & Bruce
Hwy; h9am-4pm) for trail maps.
2Activities
Innumerable tour operators run adventure-based activities from Cairns, most offering transfers to/from your accommodation.
AJ Hackett Bungee & MinjinADVENTURE SPORTS
(%1800 622
888; www.ajhackett.com; McGregor Rd,
Smithfield; bungee $169, minjin $129, combos
$249; h10am-5pm)
Bungee jump from the 50m tower or drop 45m and swing through the trees at 120km/h in the unique Minjin harness swing. Pricing includes return transfers from Cairns.
Fishing CairnsFISHING
(%0448 563
586; www.fishingcairns.com.au;
60 Collinson St,
Westcourt; half-day trips from $95)
This experienced operator has a burley-bucket-load of half- to multiday fly, sports and game fishing tours and charters, on calm or open-water. Prices vary accordingly.
Cairns Wake ParkWATER SPORTS
(%07-4038
1304; www.cairnswakepark.com;
Captain Cook Hwy,
Smithfield; adult/child per hr $39/34, per day
$74/69; h10am-6pm)
Learn to waterski, wakeboard or kneeboard without the boat at this water-sports park near the Skyrail. Pricing includes basic equipment and coaching.
DIVE COURSES & TRIPS
Cairns, scuba-dive capital of the Great Barrier Reef, is a popular place to attain Professional Association of Diving Instructors (PADI) open-water certification. A staggering number of courses (many multilingual) are available; check inclusions thoroughly. All operators require you to have a dive medical certificate, which they can arrange (around $60). Reef taxes ($20 to $80) may apply.
Keen, certified divers should look for specialised dive opportunities such as night diving, yearly coral spawning, and trips to Cod Hole, near Lizard Island, one of Australia’s premier diving locations.
Pro-DiveDIVING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%07-4031
5255; www.prodivecairns.com;
cnr Grafton & Shields
Sts; day trips adult/child from $185/110, PADI courses
from $700)
One of Cairns’ most experienced operators, Pro-Dive has multilingual staff. The comprehensive PADI five-day, learn-to-dive course incorporating a three-day live-aboard trip (from $905), is widely regarded as one of the best. Three-day live-aboard trips for snorkellers/certified divers start at $675/750 twin share.
Cairns Dive CentreDIVING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %1800 642
591; www.cairnsdive.com.au;
121 Abbott St; live-aboard
two/three days from $540/680, day trips from
$200)
This popular, long-running operator's prices are cheaper due to its affiliation with Scuba Schools International (SSI) rather than PADI.
Deep Sea Divers DenDIVING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %07-4046
7333; www.diversden.com.au;
319 Draper St; day trips
from $160, PADI certification from $640)
These passionate locals have been training divers since 1974. Budget, open water four-day PADI diver certification courses start at $640. Live-aboard and day-trip dives and courses are available.
TTours
An astounding 800+ tours drive, sail and fly out of Cairns daily, making the selection process almost overwhelming. We recommend operators with the benefit of years of experience, and who cover the bases of what visitors are generally looking for, and then some.
Cairns Discovery ToursGUIDED TOUR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %07-4028
3567; www.cairnsdiscoverytours.com;
36 Aplin St; adult/child
$75/40; hMon-Sat)
Half-day afternoon tours run by horticulturists; includes the botanic gardens and Palm Cove. Northern-beaches transfers are an extra $8 for adults, $4 for children.
Great Barrier Reef
Reef trips generally include transport, lunch, stinger-suits and snorkelling gear. When choosing a tour, consider the vessel type, its capacity, inclusions and destination: outer reefs are more pristine but further afield; inner reefs can be patchy and show signs of decay. Some prefer smaller, less-crowded vessels, while others go for the wide range of inclusions bigger boats promise.
Vendors with their own pontoon offer all-round value: pontoons are a great way for families to experience the reef – those who aren't keen on getting in the water can enjoy the pontoon's facilities, or a trip in a glass-bottomed boat or semisubmersible.
Almost all boats depart from the Marlin Wharf (with check-in and booking facilities located inside the Reef Fleet Terminal) around 8am, returning around 6pm. Smaller operators may check-in boat-side at their berth on the wharf itself; check with your operator.
oTusa
DiveDIVING, SNORKELLING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%07-4047
9100; www.tusadive.com; cnr Shields
St & The Esplanade;
adult/child day trips from
$185/110)S
A maximum of 60 passengers aboard Cairns' newest, custom-designed reef vessel (the T6), a roving outer-reef permit and a high staff-to-passenger ratio make this operator an excellent choice for day trips.
oSilverswiftDIVING,
SNORKELLING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %07-4044
9944; www.silverseries.com.au;
1 Spence St; adult/child
day trips from $202/152)
High speed, ride comfort (maximum 85 passengers) and facilities make Silverswift one of Cairns' most popular reef cruises for those able to spend a little more. You get around five hours of reef time at three of 16 outer reef locations.
Its sister high-speed cat, the Silversonic, sails from Port Douglas.
Reef EncounterDIVING, SNORKELLING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %07-4037
2700; reefencounter.com.au;
100 Abbott St; 2-day
live-aboard from $410)
If one day isn't enough, try an overnight 'reef sleep' with the Reef Encounter. Twenty-one air-conditioned, en suite rooms accommodate a maximum of 42 guests. A wide range of programs, including meals and daily departures from Cairns, make this excellent value for those wanting something a little different.
Passions of ParadiseDIVING, SNORKELLING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %1800 111
346; www.passions.com.au;
1 Spence St; adult/child
day trips from $159/109)S
This award-winning, high-speed catamaran takes you to Michaelmas Cay, where you can snorkel from a white sandy beach in the middle of the reef, and then to its exclusive mooring on Paradise Reef, away from the maddening crowds.
Great AdventuresDIVING, SNORKELLING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %07-4044
9944; www.greatadventures.com.au;
1 Spence St; adult/child
day trips from $218/112;
c)
With a range of international speakers and a multilevel pontoon on the edge of the reef, Great Adventures offers fast catamaran reef day trips, and tours to Green Island. Diving add-ons, and glass-bottomed boat and semisubmersible tours are also available.
Reef DaytripperSAILING
(%07-4036
0566; www.reefdaytripper.com.au;
1 Spence St; adult/child
day trips from $139/100)
Backpackers love these small-group sailing trips on an older-style catamaran to Upolu Reef on the outer Great Barrier Reef.
Down Under Cruise & DiveDIVING, SNORKELLING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %1800 079
099; www.downunderdive.com.au;
287 Draper St; adult/child
day trips from $159/80)
There's a fun Aussie feel to the great-value $159 basic outer reef snorkel package, with access to two reef sites and a swag of optional extras. PADI dive courses are also available.
Reef MagicDIVING, SNORKELLING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%07-4031
1588; www.reefmagiccruises.com;
1 Spence St; adult/child
day trips from $195/95)
Excellent for families, Reef Magic's high-speed cat sails to its all-weather Marineworld pontoon moored on the edge of the outer reef. If you're water shy, try a glass-bottomed boat ride, chat with the marine biologist or have a massage!
SunloverDIVING, SNORKELLING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%07-4050
1333; www.sunlover.com.au;
1 Spence St; adult/child
day trips from $195/90)
This fast family-friendly catamaran glides to a pontoon on the outer Moore Reef. Options include semisubmersible trips and helmet diving.
Coral PrincessCRUISE
(%1800 079
545; www.coralprincess.com.au;
24 Redden St,
Portsmith; d/tw per person from $1596)
Luxury three- to seven-night cruises on the compact, refurbished Coral Princess I and II between Cairns, Pelorus Island and Lizard Island, including all meals.
BEWARE: MARINE STINGERS & CROCODILES
From late October to May, the presence of box jellyfish makes swimming in Far North Queensland's alluring waters a risky proposition. Tiny irukandji jellyfish, usually only 1–2cm in diameter, are almost invisible. Their potentially deadly toxin is excruciatingly painful. If you choose to risk it, only swim within patrolled stinger nets. Even then, know that minute irukandji can penetrate the nets, which have been known to trap saltwater (estuarine) crocodiles!
Year-round territorial, predatory salties (as the locals call them) – with lifespans averaging 70-plus years and adult lengths between 4m and 7m (gasp!) – inhabit FNQ's mangroves, estuaries and rivers, and traverse open waterways and beaches: warning signs are posted where crocs are known to reside. While it's true that fatal attacks on humans are relatively uncommon, do heed the warning signs: unwary human interlopers are no match for these swift, intelligent reptiles. Shyer, less-aggressive freshwater crocodiles are smaller (up to 3m in length) and live inland in freshwater systems.
Assume all tropical waterways pose a risk. Never swim in saltwater creeks, in tidal rivers, or on beaches where water clarity is poor. Don't camp or wander by a river's edge, and don't leave food scraps lying around a campsite. Never provoke a crocodile in any way. Search 'be croc wise' at www.ehp.qld.gov.au for more.
When in doubt, stick with that lovely resort pool…
Atherton Tableland
Food Trail ToursTOUR
(%07-4032
0322; www.foodtrailtours.com.au;
Manoora, Cairns; adult/child
from $175/115;
hMon-Sat)
Taste your way around the Tableland, visiting farms producing macadamias, tropical fruits, wine, cheese, chocolate and coffee.
Uncle Brian's ToursOUTDOORS
(%07-4033
6575; www.unclebrian.com.au;
tours $119; hMon-Sat)
Lively, high-energy, small-group day trips covering the Babinda Boulders, forests, waterfalls and lakes.
Captain Matty's Barefoot ToursOUTDOORS
(%07-4055
9082; www.barefoottours.com.au;
adult $85)
Backpackers love this fun, full-day jaunt around the Tableland, with swimming stops at waterfalls and a natural water slide. Unsuitable for kids.
Organic ExperienceTOUR
(%0474-311
885; www.theorganicexperience.com.au;
from $175; h8.30am-5pm
Fri)S
This green (green as in new and green as in eco) operator takes you on a journey into a world where sustainable living is a reality. Meet local organic growers and farmers to pick their brains and sample their wares.
Cape Tribulation & the Daintree
After the Great Barrier Reef, visits to Cape Tribulation are the region's next most-popular day trip. Access to the cape is via a well-signposted sealed road, so don’t discount hiring your own vehicle, especially if you want to take your time.
Billy Tea Bush SafarisOUTDOORS
(%07-4032
0077; www.billytea.com.au;
day trips adult/child
$205/155)S
This reliable operator offers exciting small-group day trips to Cape Trib in purpose-built 4WD vehicles.
Tropics ExplorerOUTDOORS
(%1800 801
540; www.tropicsexplorer.com.au;
day tours from $110)
Purhcase your own lunch on these fun Cape Trib trips; overnight tours also available.
Cooktown & Cape York
Adventure North AustraliaDRIVING TOUR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %07-4028
3376; www.adventurenorthaustralia.com;
36 Aplin St; 1-day tours
adult/child $260/220)
For a jam-packed day, consider these 4WD trips to Cooktown via the coastal route, returning via the inland route. A variety of other tours offer a more relaxed pace: there are two- or three-day tours, fly-drive tours, and Aboriginal cultural tours, including the Bama Way.
Scenic Flights
GSL AviationSCENIC FLIGHTS
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %1300 475
000; gslaviation.com.au;
3 Tom McDonald Dr,
Aeroglen; flights per person from $169)
Those wanting to see the reef from above would do well to consider these scenic flights; they are cheaper than chopper tours, and offer more time in the air.
Nautilus AviationSCENIC FLIGHTS
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %07-4034
9000; www.nautilusaviation.com.au;
Bush Pilots Ave,
Aeroglen; flights per person from $386)
Cairns' newest operator in the luxe helicopter tour market offers a range of packaged 'experiences' and charter services.
Great Barrier Reef HelicoptersSCENIC FLIGHTS
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %07-4081
8888; www.gbrhelicopters.com.au;
Bush Pilots Ave,
Aeroglen; flights per person from $165)
Offers a wide range of helicopter flights, from a 10-minute soar above Cairns city ($165) to an hour-long reef and rainforest trip ($699).
White-Water Rafting
The thrill level of white-water rafting down the Barron, Russell and North Johnstone Rivers is hitched to the season: the wetter the weather, the whiter the water. The Tully River has rapids year-round. Trips are graded according to the degree of difficulty, from armchair rafting (Grade 1) to white-knuckle (Grade 5).
Foaming FuryRAFTING
(%1800 801
540; www.foamingfury.com.au;
19-21 Barry St; half-day
trip from $133)
Full-day trips on the Russell River ($200), and half-day trips on the Barron ($133). Family rafting options are also available.
Raging ThunderRAFTING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %07-4030
7990; www.ragingthunder.com.au;
52-54 Fearnley St,
Portsmith; half-/full-day trips from
$133/199)
Full-day Tully River trips (standard trip $199, 'xtreme' trip $235) and half-day Barron trips ($133). Transfers to Fitzroy Island are available ($74).
Ballooning & Skydiving
Hot Air CairnsBALLOONING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %07-4039
9900; www.hotair.com.au/cairns;
1 Spence St; 30-min
flight adult/child from $235/160)
Balloons take off from Mareeba to witness dawn over the Atherton Tablelands. Prices include return transfers from Cairns.
Skydive CairnsSKYDIVING
(%1300 800
840; www.skydivecairns.com.au;
Tom McDonald Dr,
Aeroglen; tandem jumps from $334)
See the reef from a whole new perspective with a drop zone encompassing a warm tropical climate, and spectacular views of the reef, World Heritage rainforest and Trinity Inlet.
zFestivals & Events
Cairns FestivalFESTIVAL
(www.cairns.qld.gov.au/festival;
hend Aug–early
Sep)
The Cairns Festival takes over the city with a packed program of performing arts, visual arts, music and family events.
4Sleeping
For a small city, Cairns has a huge volume of tourist traffic and a high turnover of seasonal staff. Room refurbishment is frequently undertaken in the wettest months (January to March). To avoid disappointment, be realistic: Cairns' hotel inventory does not compare to that of New York City or the Côte d'Azur.
Cairns is a backpacker hotspot: there are hostels a-plenty, ranging from intimate converted houses to rowdy resorts. Nondescript, drive-in motels line Sheridan St from Upward St towards the airport, offering a low-cost private alternative. Popular tourist-class hotels vie for the best spots along the Esplanade. Although there's a handful of high-end hotels in town, those seeking a luxurious retreat might consider heading straight to Palm Cove or Port Douglas.
Families and groups should check out
Cairns Holiday Homes (%07-4045
2143; www.cairnsholidayhomes.com.au).
If you plan to stick around, Cairns Sharehouse (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %07-4041
1875; www.cairns-sharehouse.com;
17 Scott St; s/d per
person, per week from $160/$125; 
a
W
s) has
around 200 long-stay rooms strewn across the city.
oTravellers
OasisHOSTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %1800 621
353; travellersoasis.com.au;
8 Scott St; dm/s/d per
person from $27/49/33;
a
iWs)
Folks love this little hippy hostel, hidden away in a side street behind Cairns Central. It's intimate, inviting and less party-centric than other offerings. A range of room types, from three-, four- and six-bed dorms, to single, twin and deluxe double rooms, are available. Air conditioning is $1 for three hours.
Gilligan's Backpacker's Hotel & ResortHOSTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %07-4041
6566; www.gilligansbackpackers.com.au;
57-89 Grafton St; dm/s/d per
person from $22/129/65;
aiWs)
There's nothing quite like Gilligan's: a loud, proud, party-hardy backpacker's oasis, where all rooms have en suites and most have balconies. Higher-priced rooms come with fridges and TVs. The mammoth bar and adjacent lounge-worthy lagoon pool is where to be seen. There's more nightly entertainment than you can poke a stick at. Pickup central.
Dreamtime Travellers RestHOSTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %1800 058
440; www.dreamtimehostel.com;
cnr Bunda & Terminus
Sts; dm/s/d from $24/45/29; iWs)
This hostel in a rambling old Queenslander on the city's fringe combines friendly staff with cosy rooms that are bright but not tacky. Cheap pizza, fire twirling and barbecue nights make your stay all the sweeter.
Northern GreenhouseHOSTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %07-4047
7200; www.northerngreenhouse.com.au;
117 Grafton St; dm/d per
person from $24/48;
paiWs)
These friendly digs benefit from a relaxed attitude. Rooms range from dorms to neat studio-style apartments with kitchens and balconies. The central deck, pool and games room are great for socialising. Free breakfast and Sunday BBQ seal the deal.
oCairns Plaza
HotelHOTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %07-4051
4688; www.cairnsplaza.com.au;
145 The Esplanade; d from
$129; paiWs)
One of Cairns' original high-rise hotels, the trimuphant Plaza is freshly refurbished and under new ownership. Rooms have crisp, clean decor, and functional kitchenettes and balconies; many enjoy stunning views over Trinity Bay. A guest laundry, friendly round-the-clock reception staff, quiet Esplanade location and great rates make it an excellent midrange choice.
Hotel CairnsHOTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %07-4051
6188; www.thehotelcairns.com;
cnr Abbott & Florence
Sts; d from $129; aWs)
There’s a tropical charm to this boutique hotel, built in traditional Queenslander 'plantation' style, a block back from the Esplanade. Stylish, solid rooms, ageing gracefully, have an understated elegance. Suites offer luxury touches including private balconies. Those with a discerning eye will recognise the opportunity to snag a sizzling deal.
Doubletree by HiltonHOTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %07-4050
6070; doubletree3.hilton.com;
121-123 The
Esplanade; d/ste from $160/296)
An enviable location on the northern end of the Esplanade, 24-hoor room service and stylish, modern guestrooms with floor-to-ceiling windows define this well-presented chain hotel. Balcony rooms are available for a fee.
Pacific HotelHOTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %07-4051
788; www.pacifichotelcairns.com;
cnr The Esplanade & Spence
St; d from $139)
In a prime location at the beginning of the Esplanade, this older hotel has been lovingly maintained and recently refurbished. There's a fun blend of original '70s features and woodwork, with fresh, modern amenities. All rooms have balconies. Friendly, helpful staff make this an excellent midrange choice.
Reef PalmsAPARTMENTS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%1800 815
421; www.reefpalms.com.au;
41-47 Digger St; apt from
$130; aiWs)
Couples and families love the excellent value and friendly service found in these squeaky-clean apartments with cooking facilities, though some might find the decor a little too gaudy. Larger apartments include a lounge area and spa.
Pullman Reef Hotel CasinoHOTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %07-4030
8888; www.reefcasino.com.au/hotel;
35-41 Wharf St; d/ste from
$229/319)
You'll find some of Cairns' finest rooms and best service in this five-star hotel atop the casino complex in the heart of the CBD. Offers a variety of room types, many with balcony and Jacuzzi, including plush suites.
Shangri-LaHOTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%07-4031
1411; www.shangri-la.com/cairns;
1 Pierpoint Rd; d/ste from
$205/365; paiWs)
At time of writing, five-star Shangri-La failed to knock our socks off, despite its prime position overlooking the marina, in close proximity to Cairns' finest dining. Ongoing refurbishment means airy, older rooms, with their exceptional outlook, can be nabbed at bargain rates, while freshly renovated rooms offer the opulence (and price) synonymous with this luxury brand.
5Eating
With so many hungry tourists and so much
choice, Cairns' culinary scene can be hit-and-miss, but there are
some stunners to be found. Pubs are known for hearty, good-value
grub. The Esplanade has an array of lively eateries, including the
Night Markets (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; The
Esplanade; dishes $10-15; h5-11pm)' buffet food court. The boardwalk
adjacent to the marina has the fanciest atmosphere, but some of the
better finds are back from the water, along Grafton St.
oTokyo
DumplingJAPANESE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %07-4041
2848; 46 Lake St; dumplings
from $7, bowls from $10.80; h11.30am-8.30pm)
Come to this spotless little takeaway for the best tantanmen (a kind of spicy sesame ramen) outside Japan and some seriously drool-worthy gyoza (dumplings): the cheese and potato variety are to die for. We predict you won't be able to eat here just once.
Meldrum's Pies in ParadiseBAKERY
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %07-4051
8333; 97 Grafton St; pies
$4.70-5.90; h7am-4.30pm
Mon-Fri, to 2.30pm Sat;
v)
Multi-award-winning Meldrum’s deserves the accolades bestowed upon it's seemingly innumerable renditions of the humble Aussie pie since 1972. From chicken and avocado, to pumpkin gnocchi and tuna mornay. We loved the steak and mushroo-mmm in creamy pepper sauce!
oCandyCAFE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%07-4031
8816; 70 Grafton St; h7am-2.30pm)
This quirky, licensed cafe has some seriously sweet treats on it's more-than-tempting menu: eggs Benedict with light, fluffy hollandaise; caramelised French toast with poached pears and mascarpone; and the infamous Wagyu beef candy burger with egg, bacon, beetroot jam and vintage cheddar. Just do it.
LillypadCAFE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%07-4051
9565; 72 Grafton St; dishes
$10-14; h7am-3pm; v)
With humongous feasts, from crepes to wraps and a truckload of vegetarian options, this is one of the best-value options in town. It's a little bit hippy, and a whole lot busy: you'll probably have to wait a while. Don't miss the fresh juices.
CaffiendCAFE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%07-4051
5522; www.caffiend.com.au;
5/78 Grafton St; dishes from
$12; h7.30am-3pm
Mon-Sat, 8am-2pm Sun;
W)
Follow your nose down the Melbourne-esque graffitied alleyway to this cosy cafe for superb barista coffee, all-day breakfast, gourmet lunches, art, beer and the occasional live gig.
Little Ricardo'sITALIAN
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %07-4051
5266; www.littlericardos.com;
191 Sheridan St; pizzas from
$17, mains from $19;
h5-10pm
Mon-Sat)
This romantic little old-school Italian joint serves up all your favourite pizzas, pastas and homestyle favourites, including calamari and veal every which way you can think of. Takeaway available.
oWaterbar &
GrillSTEAKHOUSE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %07-4031
1199; www.waterbarandgrill.com.au;
Pier Shopping Centre, 1 Pierpoint
Rd; mains $19-42; h11.30am-11pm
Mon-Sat, to 9pm Sun)
Cairns' award-winning steakhouse shouldn't fail to deliver on it's promise of succulent, juicy steaks, tender burgers and pricey sides. In the unlikely event that you do leave a crabby carnivore, be sure to let them know so they can make it right. Save room for the homemade sticky date pudding…
DundeesSEAFOOD
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%07-4051
0399; www.dundees.com.au;
Harbour Lights, 1 Marlin
Pde; mains $25-79; h11.30am-9.30pm)
This tried-and-true waterfront seafood restaurant comes up trumps for ambience, generous portions and friendly service. The varied menu of appealing appetizers begins with chunky seafood chowder, tempura soft-shell crab and lightly dusted calamari strips, while the main event features pasta, a full grill menu and enormous seafood platters.
OchreMODERN AUSTRALIAN
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%07-4051
0100; www.ochrerestaurant.com.au;
43 Shields St; mains
$19-38; h11.30-2.30pm
Mon-Fri & 5.30-9.30pm Mon-Sun; v)
The menu at this innovative restaurant utilises native Aussie fauna (such as croc with native pepper, or roo with quandong-chilli glaze) and flora (try wattle-seed damper loaf or lemon-myrtle pannacotta). Can’t decide? Try a tasting plate.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Cairns is the undisputed party capital of the north. Most venues offer food, booze and some form of entertainment.
To find out what's going on in town, hit
www.entertainmentcairns.com
and the Time Out section in Thursday's Cairns
Post. If you really want to get raucous, try Ultimate Party (%07-4041
0332; www.ultimatepartycairns.com;
per person $35; hWed & Sat
nights), a wild-n-crazy
pub crawl that takes in five suitably frenetic venues over six
hours.
oSalt
HouseBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%07-4041
7733; www.salthouse.com.au;
6/2 Pierpoint Rd; h9am-2am
Fri-Sun, noon-midnight Mon-Thu)
By the yacht club, Cairns' coolest and classiest bar caters to a 20-to-30-something crowd. Killer cocktails are paired with occasional live music and DJs. The restaurant serves up excellent modern Australian food. Come with cash to burn.
oJackPUB
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%07-4051
2490; www.thejack.com.au;
cnr Spence & Sheridan
Sts; h10am-late)
The Jack is a kick-ass pub by any standards, housed in an unmissable heritage Queenslander with an enormous shaded beer garden. There are nightly events, including live music and DJs, killer pub grub, and an adjacent backpackers, for those who just can't tear themselves away.
Pier Bar & GrillBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %07-4031
4677; www.pierbar.com.au;
Pier Shopping Centre, 1 Pierpoint
Rd; h11.30am-late)
Thoroughly refurbished in 2014, this local institution is loved for its killer waterfront location and daily happy hour (5pm to 7pm). The still-going-strong Sunday Sesh is the place to see and be seen, with live music, food and drink specials and an always happening crowd.
Courthouse HotelPUB
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %07-4081
7777; www.lanternhotels.com.au/courthouse-hotel;
38 Abbott St; h9am-late)
Housed in Cairns’ gleaming-white former courthouse (1921), this classy pub is now a buzzing watering hole with polished timber bar, heaps of outdoor nooks and live music every weekend. None too shabby.
Flying Monkey CafeCAFE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %0411 084
176; 154 Sheridan St; coffee
$4; hMon-Fri
6.30am-3.30pm, Sat 7am-noon)
Fantastic coffee, ever-changing local art exhibitions, colourful buskers and a beyond-affable staff make the Monkey a must-do for caffeine-and-culture hounds.
Cock 'n' BullPUB
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %07-4031
1160; www.cocknbull.net.au;
6 Grove St; h10am-3am
Mon-Sat, to midnight Sun)
A local favourite near Cairns Hospital, there's something for everyone at this English tavern–themed pub, with a very un-English tropical beer garden. Huge, tasty pub meals are great value, as are regular drink specials at the lively bar.
G-SpotBAR, CLUB
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%07-4040
2777; www.thegspotcairns.com;
57-89 Grafton St; h10pm-late)
Home of Gilligan's nightclub and the Attic, G-Spot's weekly theme nights and special events go off. Expect a throng of randy backpackers and Cairns' most intense soundsystem.
Lyquid NightlifeCLUB
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %07-4028
3773; www.lyquid.com.au; 33 Spence
St; h9pm-3am)
Cairns sexiest new venue promises to be the hottest ticket in town: dress to impress and party the night away.
WoolshedBAR, CLUB
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%07-4031
6304; www.thewoolshed.com.au;
24 Shields St; h7pm-3am
Sun-Thu, to 5am Fri & Sat)
An eternal backpacker magnet/meat market, where dashing dudes, dive instructors and nubile nomads get happily hammered and dance on tables.
3Entertainment
Reef Hotel CasinoCASINO
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %07-4030
8888; www.reefcasino.com.au;
35-41 Wharf St; h9am-5am Fri
& Sat, to 3am Sun-Thu)
In addition to table games and pokies, Cairns’ casino has four restaurants and four bars, including Vertigo Cocktail Bar & Lounge (with free live music and ticketed shows) and the enormous Casino Sports Arena bar.
7Shopping
Cairns offers the gamut of shopping, from high-end boutiques to garish souvenir barns.
oRusty's
MarketsMARKET
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %07-4040
2705; www.rustysmarkets.com.au;
57 Grafton St; h5am-6pm Fri
& Sat, to 3pm Sun)
No weekend in Cairns is complete without a visit to this fresh produce market where stall holders have mangoes, bananas, pineapples and all manner of tropical fruits piled high, plus farm-fresh honey, hot chips, curries and cold drinks.
Cairns Central Shopping CentreSHOPPING CENTRE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %07-4041
4111; www.cairnscentral.com.au;
cnr McLeod & Spence
Sts; h9am-5.30pm
Mon-Wed, Fri & Sat, to 9pm Thu, 10am-4.30pm
Sun)
Atop Cairns Central Railway Station, you'll find the region's largest shopping mall. It boasts multiple supermarkets and a huge range of speciality stores selling everything from books to bikinis and sunscreen to SIM cards.
8Information
Internet Access
Dedicated internet cafes are clustered along Abbott St between Shields and Aplin Sts.
Post
Post OfficePOST OFFICE
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %13 13
18; www.auspost.com.au;
Shop 112, Cairns Central Shopping
Centre; h9am-5.30pm
Mon-Wed, Fri & Sat, to 9pm Thu, 10.30am-4pm
Sun)
Tourist Information
Cairns & Tropical North Visitor Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %1800 093
300; www.cairns-greatbarrierreef.org.au;
51 The Esplanade; h8.30am-6pm
Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun)
There's only one government-run visitor information centre in town offering impartial advice. Hundreds of free brochures, maps and pamphlets are available. Friendly staff can help with booking accommodation and tours. Look for the yellow 'i' on the blue background.
Royal Automobile Club of QueenslandTOURIST INFORMATION
(RACQ;
%07-4042
3100; www.racq.com.au; 537 Mulgrave
Rd, Earlville;
h9am-5pm
Mon-Fri)
Maps and information on road conditions state-wide, including Cape York. For a 24-hour, recorded road-report service, call 1300 130 595.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
TOO MUCH (TOURIST) INFORMATION?
Most of Cairns' thousands of tours and activities are bookable from your accommodation's 'tour desk' and from the myriad of purported 'tourist information' agencies around the city. Confused? So were we! Many of these so-called agencies (the ones with a white 'i' on a blue background) are offered incentives daily by affiliated operators to 'beef up' tours with poor booking numbers.
There's only one official, impartial tourist information agency in town, the Cairns & Tropical North Visitor Information Centre. It's the only one with a yellow 'i' on a blue background, and is found at the beginning of the Esplanade, before the lagoon. Friendly, expert staff (most are volunteers who love their city) will do their best to help match you to the right product for your needs.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Qantas
(%13 13
13; www.qantas.com.au), Virgin
Australia (%13 67
89; www.virginaustralia.com)
and Jetstar (%13 15
38; www.jetstar.com.au)
arrive and depart
Cairns Airport, located approximately 6km from the CBD, with
direct services to all capital cities except Canberra and Hobart,
and to regional centres including Townsville, Weipa and Horn
Island. Direct international connections include Bali, Shanghai,
Guam, Tokyo and Port Moresby.
Hinterland
Aviation (%07-4040
1333; www.hinterlandaviation.com.au)
has up to three flights daily (Monday to Saturday) to Cooktown (one
way from $175, 40 minutes).
In January 2015 Skytrans, a regional airline which serviced remote communities such as Coen, Bamaga and Lockhart River, ceased operations after 25 years. At the time of writing, it was unknown whether alternative carriers would commence service to these areas.
Boat
Almost all reef trips from Cairns depart the Marlin Wharf (sometimes called the Marlin Jetty), with booking and check-in facilities located inside the Reef Fleet Terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ). A handful of smaller operators may have their check-in facilities boat-side, on the wharf itself. Be sure to ask for the correct berth number.
International cruise ships and
SeaSwift ferries to Seisia on Cape York dock at and depart from
the Cairns Cruise Terminal (
GOOGLE MAP ; %07-4052
3888; www.cairnscruiselinerterminal.com.au;
cnr Wharf & Lake
Sts).
Bus
Greyhound AustraliaBUS
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %1300 473
946; www.greyhound.com.au)
Departing the Interstate Coach Terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ) (within the Reef Fleet Terminal), Greyhound has daily services down the coast to Townsville (from $55, six hours), Airlie Beach (from $85, 11 hours), Rockhampton ($201, 18 hours) and Brisbane ($311, 29 hours). Discount passes are available.
Premier Motor ServiceBUS
(%13 34
10; www.premierms.com.au)
Runs one daily service to Brisbane ($205, 29 hours) via Innisfail ($19, 1½ hours), Mission Beach ($19, two hours), Tully ($26, 2½ hours), Cardwell ($30, three hours), Townsville ($55, 5½ hours) and Airlie Beach ($90, 10 hours). Enquire for available discounts.
Trans NorthBUS
(
GOOGLE MAP ;
%07-4095
8644; www.transnorthbus.com;
Cairns Central Railway
Station)
Has five daily bus services connecting Cairns with the Tablelands, including Kuranda ($8, 30 minutes, four daily), Mareeba ($18, one hour, one to three daily) and Atherton ($23.40, 1¾ hours, one to three daily). Departs from Cairns Central Railway Station; buy tickets when boarding.
John’s Kuranda BusBUS
(%0418 772
953)
Runs a service ($5, 30 minutes) between Cairns (departs Lake St Transit Centre) and Kuranda, two to five times daily.
Sun PalmBUS
(%07-4087
2900; www.sunpalmtransport.com.au)
Operates scheduled and charter services between Cairns CBD, the airport ($15, 20 minutes) and Port Douglas (from $40, 1½ hours) via Palm Cove and the northern beaches (from $20).
Cairns Cooktown ExpressBUS
(%07-4059
1423;
www.cairnsbuscharters.com/services/cairns-cooktown-express)
Cairns Bus Charters operate the daily Cairns Cooktown Express ($79, five hours) along the inland route to Cooktown.
Car & Motorcycle
Major car-rental companies have downtown
and airport branches. Daily rates start around $45 for a compact
auto and $80 for a 4WD. Cairns Older Car
Hire (%07-4053
1066; www.cairnsoldercarhire.com;
410 Sheridan St; per day from
$25) and Rent-a-Bomb (
GOOGLE MAP ; %07-4031
4477; www.rentabomb.com.au;
144 Sheridan St; per day from
$30) have cheap rates on
older model vehicles. If you're looking for a cheap campervan,
Jucy (
GOOGLE MAP ;
%1800 150
850; www.jucy.com.au; 55 Dutton
St, Portsmith;
per day from $40), Spaceships
(
GOOGLE MAP ;
%1300 132
469; www.spaceshipsrentals.com.au;
3/52 Fearnley St,
Portsmith; per day from $59) and Hippie Camper
Hire (%1800 777
779; www.hippiecamper.com;
432 Sheridan St; per day from
$40) have quality wheels
at budget prices.
If you’re in for the long haul, check hostels, www.gumtree.com.au and the big noticeboard on Abbott St for used campervans and ex-backpackers’ cars.
If you prefer two wheels to four, hire a
Harley (from $210 per day) or a head-turning Honda VTR (from $110
per day), from Choppers Motorcycle Tours &
Hire (
GOOGLE MAP ; %1300 735
577; www.choppersmotorcycles.com.au;
150 Sheridan St). A swag of tours are also available.
Train
New in 2015, Queensland Rail's (
GOOGLE MAP ; %1800 872
467; www.traveltrain.com.au)
scenic, state-of-the-art Spirit of Queensland train, offers Railbed
class, reminiscent of business class on a plane, and standard
Premium Economy class seats, with personal entertainment systems.
Departs Cairns Central Railway Station (
GOOGLE MAP ; Bunda
St) on Monday,
Wednesday, Thursday, Friday and Sunday, for Brisbane (one-way from
$222, 24 hours).
The Kuranda Scenic Railway runs daily.
DON'T MISS
JOURNEY ABOVE & INTO THE RAINFOREST
A trip to Cairns isn't complete without an obligatory rainforest journey through the Barron Gorge National Park to the Tableland village of Kuranda. We recommend taking the Skyrail Rainforest Cableway in one direction and the Kuranda Scenic Railway in the other. Combination deals are available.
oSkyrail
Rainforest CablewayCABLE
CAR
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %07-4038
5555; www.skyrail.com.au;
cnr Cook Hwy & Cairns Western
Arterial Rd, Smithfield;
adult/child one-way $49/24.50, return
$73/36.50; h9am-5.15pm)S
At 7.5km long, Skyrail is one of the world’s longest gondola cableways, offering a bird’s-eye view over the tropical rainforest. Allow about 90 minutes for the one-way trip, including two stops en route, featuring rainforest boardwalks with interpretive panels and lookouts over the mighty Barron Falls. Upgrading to a glass-floored 'diamond view' gondola (adults an extra $10, children an extra $5) is recommended, but real adventure seekers can't go past the amazing, open-air Canopy Glider (an extra $100 or more per person).
The last departures from Cairns and Kuranda are at 3.45pm; transfers to and from the terminals are available. For a deeper perspective, consider a 40-minute Djabugay Aboriginal Guided Rainforest Walking Tour (adult/child $24/12) from Barron Falls Station.
Kuranda Scenic RailwayTRAIN
(%07-4036
9333; www.ksr.com.au; adult/child
one-way $49/25, return $79/37)
Winding 34km from Cairns to Kuranda through picturesque mountains, the track used by the Kuranda Scenic Railway was completed in 1891: workers dug tunnels by hand, battling sickness, steep terrain and venomous creatures. The 1¾-hour pleasure trip departs Cairns at 8.30am and 9.30am daily, returning from delightful Kuranda station at 2pm and 3.30pm.
8Getting Around
To/From the Airport
The airport is about 6km north of
central Cairns; many accommodation places offer courtesy pickup.
Sun Palm meets all incoming flights and runs a shuttle bus
(adult/child $15/7.50) to the CBD. The cheapest shuttle service
(from $12 per person) is operated by Cairns
Airport Shuttle (%0432 488
783; www.cairnsairportshuttle.com.au;
per person from $12): the more passengers, the cheaper the
fare – online bookings recommended.
Taxis to the CBD are around $25.
Bicycle & Scooter
Bike ManBICYCLE RENTAL
(
GOOGLE MAP ;
%07-4041
5566; www.bikeman.com.au;
99 Sheridan St; per day/week
$15/60)
Hire, sales and repairs.
Cairns Scooter & Bicycle HireBICYCLE RENTAL
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %07-4031
3444; www.cairnsbicyclehire.com.au;
47 Shields St; scooters/bikes per day from
$95/35)
Zip around on a nifty-fifty, or take it slow on a pushie. Also sells used scooters.
Bus
Sunbus (
GOOGLE MAP ;
%07-4057
7411; www.sunbus.com.au; rides from
$2.20) runs regular
services in and around Cairns from the Cairns
Transit Mall (
GOOGLE MAP ) on Lake St, where schedules are posted.
Useful routes include: Flecker Botanic Gardens/Edge Hill (route
131), Holloways Beach and Yorkeys Knob (route 113), Trinity Beach
(route 111) and Palm Cove via Clifton Beach (route 110). Most buses
heading north go via Smithfield. All routes are served by the
late-running night service (N). Heading south, Bus 140 runs as far
south as Gordonvale. Single tickets cost from $2.20, day passes
from $4.40.
Taxi
Cairns TaxisTAXI
(%13 10
08; www.cairnstaxis.com.au)
Ranks are dotted throughout the city, including at Abbott St and Cairns Central Shopping Centre.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
THE BAMA WAY
Running between Cairns and Cooktown, the Bama Way is a tourist route designed by the traditional custodians of the region, the Aboriginal nations of the Kuku Yalanji and Guugu Yimithirr people. The term Bama (pronounced Bumma) is widely used throughout tropical North Queensland, and means ‘Aboriginal person’. For the Kuku Yalanji and Guugu Yimithirr, it means 'person' or 'all people'. A variety of guided tours are available for those seeking the most enlightening cultural experience. The Walker family tours of the Bloomfield Track and Willie Gordon’s enlightening Guurrbi Tours in Cooktown are highly recommended. If you're interested in self-driving, pick up a Bama Way map from a visitor centre, or download it from the Bama Way homepage: www.bamaway.com.au.
Cairns’ Northern Beaches
Surprisingly, few visitors realise before arrival that Cairns' beaches are 15-minutes' drive from the CBD. A string of lovely beach communities known as the northern beaches, each with their own character, awaits. Yorkeys Knob is popular with sailors, Trinity is big with families, and Palm Cove is a swanky honeymoon haven in its own league entirely.
All beaches can be reached via well-marked turn-offs from the Cook Hwy.
Once you're there, Northern
Beaches Bike Hire (%0417-361
012; cairnsbeachesbikehire.com;
41 Iridescent Dr, Ellis
Beach; per day from $20) can deliver rental bikes to most northern
beaches accommodation options, and collect them when you're
done!
Yorkeys Knob
Yorkeys Knob (giggle once, then move on) is a low-key settlement known for its Half Moon Bay and marina. A proposed megacasino (aquiscasino.com) would change the town irrevocably and has many locals (who've already lost their apostrophe) up in arms. For now, it's business (or lack thereof) as usual.
2Activities
Kite RiteWATER SPORTS
(%07-4055
7918; www.kiterite.com.au;
Shop 9, 471 Varley
St; per hr $79)
Offers kite- and windsurfing instruction, unique to Yorkeys, including gear hire, and a two-day certificate course ($499).
4Sleeping & Eating
Villa MarineAPARTMENT
(%07-4055
7158; www.villamarine.com.au;
8 Rutherford St; apt from
$99-189; aWs)
Friendly owner Peter makes you feel at home in his collection of retro, single-storey self-contained apartments arranged around a pool, just a short stroll from the beach.
YorkAPARTMENTS
(%07-4055
8733; www.yorkapartments.com.au;
61-63 Sims
Esplanade; apt from $165)
Directly opposite the beach you'll find these low-rise, airy apartments with high-quality furnishings, tiled floors, full kitchen facilities and balconies.
oYorkeys Knob
Boating ClubSEAFOOD
(%07-4055
7711; www.ykbc.com.au; 25-29
Buckley St; mains from $16; hnoon-3pm
& 6-9pm; v)
A diamond find for fresh seafood, and for delightful views of the marina's expensive floating toys from its expansive dining deck. You can't go past Lobster Fridays ($35 including bubbles) and Oyster Saturdays ($12 per dozen!), as well as the daily specials. Perfect for lunch, it's well worth the trip from Cairns.
8Getting There & Away
If you don't have a car, Sunbus' route 113 will get you from Cairns to Yorkeys in about 40 minutes.
Trinity Beach
One of the region's better-kept secrets, Trinity Beach, with its gorgeous stretch of sheltered sand, pretty esplanade, and sensibly priced dining and accommodation, has managed to stave off the tourism vibe, despite being a holiday hotspot and popular dining destination for Cairns locals in the know. There's not much to do here except eat, sleep and chill-out, but Trinity Beach's central position makes it easy to get out and about when you are feeling active.
4Sleeping
A wealth of wonderful, affordable apartment-style accommodation makes Trinity an excellent alternative to sleeping in Cairns for families and those travelling in groups.
Comfort Inn & Suites Trinity Beach ClubHOTEL
(%07-4055
6776; www.choicehotels.com.au;
19-23 Trinity Beach
Rd; apt from $195)
This property offers hotel-style management and service. Its one- and two-bedroom, apartment-style accommodation has full kitchen facilities, and is just 200m from Trinity Beach.
Sea Change Beachfront ApartmentsAPARTMENTS
(%07-4057
5822; www.seachange-beachfront-apartments.com;
31-35 Vasey
Esplanade; apt from $290)
These professionally managed luxury apartments benefit from a quiet position on the southern end of Trinity's spectacular beach. Apartments range in size from one to four bedrooms. Some offer swim-out pool access or a private roof deck. A high rate of repeat guests speaks for itself. Minimum three-night stay.
5Eating
Trinity may seem top-heavy on Italian restaurants, but, when in Rome…
oChianti'sITALIAN
(%07-4057
5338; www.chianttis.com; 81 Vasey
Esplanade; mains from $18; h4-10pm)
We love the unpretentious, old-school romance of this feisty, family-run business that's grown on word-of-mouth recommendations; don't expect silver service. Eat on the cosy verandah for the best views and vibe. Pizzas and pastas are homestyle and hearty, and the daily early-bird dinner special is great value.
Fratelli on TrinityITALIAN
(%07-4057
5775; www.fratelli.net.au;
47 Vasey Esplanade; mains from
$20; h7am-10pm
Thu-Sun, from 5.30pm Mon-Wed)
Don't let the easy-breezy beach shack vibe fool you into thinking the food here is anything less than top-class. Pastas are superb, and dishes like slow-cooked lamb shoulder and garlic-and-rosemary rolled pork-belly roast might even distract you from the million-dollar views.
Blue Moon GrillMODERN AUSTRALIAN
(%07-4057
8957; Shop 6, 22-24 Trinity Beach Rd; mains
$26-39; h7-11am &
4-10pm Fri-Sun, 4-10pm Mon-Thu)
A slightly overwhelming menu of creative, original dishes are presented with passion at this cosy, family-run bistro two blocks back from the beach. Where else can you try crocodile popcorn?
L'Unico TrattoriaITALIAN
(%07-4057
8855; www.lunico.com.au; 75 Vasey
Esplanade; mains from $22; hnoon-10pm; v)
Opening to a wrap-around, beachfront deck, upscale L'Unico Trattoria serves stylish Italian cuisine. Items include bugs (crayfish) with garlic, chilli and white wine, homemade four-cheese gnocchi and wood-fired pizzas, paired with a stellar wine list.
8Getting There & Around
Renting a car upon arrival into Cairns is highly recommended. Trinity Beach is about 20 -minutes' drive from the airport, and 30 minutes from downtonwn Cairns. Otherwise, Sunbus' route 111 services Trinity Beach.
Palm Cove
Best known of Cairns' northern beaches, Palm Cove has grown into a destination in its own right. More intimate than Port Douglas and more upmarket than its southern neighbours, Palm Cove is a cloistered coastal community with a beautiful promenade along the paperbark-lined Williams Esplanade. Its gorgeous stretch of white-sand beach and its sprinkling of fancy restaurants do their best to lure young lovers from their luxury resorts, and, inevitably, they succeed.
Unlike Port Douglas, you can walk everywhere. Unlike Cairns, you'll hardly notice the presence of other sun and reef seekers. If you can afford to stay here, you won't flinch at the extra expense of a rental car, which you'll need if you plan on leaving paradise for some thrill seeking.
1Sights & Activities
Cairns Tropical ZooZOO
(%07-4055
3669; www.cairnstropicalzoo.com.au;
Captain Cook Hwy; adult/child
$34/17; h8.30am-4pm)
This zoo offers an up-close wildlife experience with crocodiles and snakes, koala photo sessions and kangaroo feeding. Its Cairns Night Zoo experience includes a barbecue dinner and entertainment (adults $105, children $52.50). Transfers are available for an additional cost.
Palm Cove WatersportsKAYAKING
(%0402 861
011; www.palmcovewatersports.com;
kayak hire per hr from
$20)
Organises two-hour sunrise sea-kayaking trips ($55) and half-day paddles to offshore Double Island (adult/child $110/80). Gear hire is also available.
Beach Fun Co.WATER SPORTS
(%0411-848
580; www.beachfunco.com;
cnr Williams Esplanade & Harpa
St)
Hires catamarans ($50 per hour), jet skis (per 15 minutes single/double $60/80), paddle boats ($30) and SUP boards ($30). Also organises jet-ski tours around Double Island and Haycock – aka Scouts Hat – Island (30-minute single/double from $150/200). Advance phone bookings recommended.
4Sleeping
There are over 30 places to stay in this small village – many require a minimum two-night stay. If you're lucky with the weather, you could snap up a real bargain during low-season.
Palm Cove Holiday ParkCAMPGROUND
(%1800 736
640; www.palmcovehp.com.au;
149 Williams
Esplanade; unpowered/powered sites from
$20/28; W)
The only way to do Palm Cove on the cheap, this beachfront campground near the jetty has tent and van sites, a barbecue area, a laundry and wi-fi hotspots.
Reef RetreatAPARTMENTS
(%07-4059
1744; reefretreat.com.au;
10-14 Harpa St; apt from
$145; s)
We're confident the new management of this delightful property will continue to uphold it's reputation for excellent service. In a peaceful forested setting around a shaded pool, the well-maintained one-, two- and three-bedroom apartments feature an east-meets-west theme with lots of rich timbers, durable high-quality furnishings and wide, airy balconies.
Silvester PalmsAPARTMENTS
(%07-4055
3831; www.silvesterpalms.com.au;
32 Veivers Rd; apt from
$125; aWs)
These bright, self-contained one-, two- and three-bedroom apartments are an affordable alternative to Palm Cove’s city-sized resorts. Think family holiday over romantic resort retreat.
Sanctuary Palm CoveAPARTMENTS
(%07-4059
2200; www.sanctuarypalmcove.com.au;
6 Cedar Rd; apt from
$175; s)
At the northern end of the strip, just a hop, skip and jump from the beach, Sanctuary's enticing one-, two- and three-bedroom apartments turn heads. A host of delights await discerning guests: wide open spaces, tiled floors, plantation shutters, stylish high-end furnishings, balconies, Jacuzzis, and a beautiful 25m pool shaded by melaleucas and lush tropical gardens.
Peppers Beach Club & SpaHOTEL
(%07-4059
9200; www.peppers.com.au;
123 Williams
Esplanade; d from $275; aiWs)S
Step into a world of relaxation and retreat. You'll find it difficult to get out of the enormous sand-edged lagoon pool (with swim-up bar), unless you feel inspired to try the secluded leafy rainforest pool, play tennis or indulge in a spa treatment. All rooms have private balcony spas, and the penthouses (from $720) have individual rooftop lap pools.
Reef House Resort & SpaBOUTIQUE HOTEL
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %07-4080
2600; www.reefhouse.com.au;
99 Williams
Esplanade; d from $239; aiWs)
Once the private residence of an army brigadier, Reef House is more intimate and understated than most of Palm Cove’s resorts. The whitewashed walls, wicker furniture and big beds romantically draped in muslin all add to the air of refinement. The Brigadier’s Bar works on an honesty system; complimentary punch is served by candlelight at twilight.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
WHY ALL THE STAIRS?
Visitors to Palm Cove and Port Douglas are often shocked to find their accommodation is sans elevator. Strict height limits in Palm Cove and Port Douglas apply – buildings must be no higher than the tallest palm tree, generally three storeys – and it's costly and design-restrictive to incorporate elevators into low-rise complexes. Additionally, salty ocean air means elevators require regular, expensive maintenance. If mobility is a concern, confirm your accommodation has an elevator, or request a ground-floor room, when you book.
5Eating
The cafes and restaurants lining the scenic Esplanade are generally pricey, but fabulous. Most resorts open their restaurants to nonguests. If your wallet is suffering, consider eating like the locals: Clifton Village Shopping Centre in neighboring Clifton Beach has some excellent casual dining options, and a supermarket for self-caterers. Otherwise, Trinity Beach is just 10 minutes' down the road.
Deli AdriftCAFE
(%07-4055
3354; 2 Veivers Rd; sandwiches
from $9; h7am-3.30pm)
Friendly service and a relaxed, casual vibe make this a great little spot for coffee, breakfast or flavoursome, freshly made sandwiches. Devour on-site or carry to the beach for a picnic.
Chill CafeCAFE
(%0402 665
523; www.chillcafepalmcove.com.au;
Shop 1, 41 Williams
Esplanade; mains from $15; h7am-4pm
Sun-Thu, to 8pm Fri & Sat)
The el-primo position on the corner of the waterfront Esplanade, combined with fun, friendly and attentive service, sexy tunes and a huge airy deck, are all great reasons to try the oversized, tasty bites (think fish tacos and chunky club sandwiches) of this hip cafe. You can also just chill in the sunshine with a juice or a beer.
A Taste of ItalyPIZZA
(%07-4059
2727; www.atasteofitaly.com.au;
Clifton Village Shopping Centre,
Clifton Beach;
pizzas from $13; h11am-9pm)
If you just want to kick back and eat pizza in paradise, you can. Whizz over to neighbouring Clifton Beach to pickup, or dial-in for delivery: hundreds do (minimum order $20, delivery fee $5). And yes, the pizzas are goooooood.
oVivo Bar &
GrillMODERN AUSTRALIAN
(www.vivo.com.au; 49 Williams
Esplanade; mains from $28; h7.30am-9pm)
The most beautiful restaurant on the Esplanade is also one of the finest. Menus (breakfast, lunch and dinner) are inventive and well executed using fresh local ingredients, service is second to none, and the outlook is superb. When you've got those three elements down pat, Palm Cove pricing is justified. Daily set menus are excellent value.
Beach AlmondASIAN, SEAFOOD
(%07-4059
1908; www.beachalmond.com;
145 Williams
Esplanade; mains from $30; h5.30-10pm
Mon-Tue & Thu-Sat, 12-3pm & 5.30-10pm
Sun)
Awesome and unmissable – the rustic, ramshackle, beachhouse-on-sticks exterior belies the fine dining experience that awaits within. Black-pepper prawns, Singaporean mud crab and Balinese barra are among the fragrant innovations here, combining Asian flavours and spices.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Surf Club Palm CoveBAR
(%07-4059
1244; www.surfclubpalmcove.com.au;
135 Williams
Esplanade; h6pm-late)
A great local for a drink in the sunny garden bar, bargain-priced seafood and decent kids' meals.
Apres Beach Bar & GrillBAR
(%07-4059
2000; www.apresbeachbar.com.au;
119 Williams
Esplanade; h7.30am-11pm)
The most happening place in Palm Cove, with a zany interior of old motorcycles, racing cars, and a biplane hanging from the ceiling, plus regular live music. Big on steaks of all sorts, too.
8Information
Commercially run tour-booking companies are strung along Williams Esplanade; the Cairns & Tropical North Visitor Information Centre in Cairns can help with bookings.
Palm Cove Shopping
Village (113 Williams Esplanade; h7am-10pm) has a post office (with internet access,
$4 per hour), small supermarket and newsagent.
8Getting There & Away
Palm Cove is ideally positioned halfway between Cairns and Port Douglas – about a 30 minutes drive in either direction. Having your own wheels will open up a myriad of possibilities for exploration. It's possible to pick up a car at Cairns Airport and drive straight here, bypassing Cairns.
Otherwise, Sunbus' route 110 services Clifton Beach and Palm Cove via Smithfield.
Ellis Beach
Little Ellis Beach is the last of Cairns' northern beaches and the closest to the highway, which runs right past it. The long sheltered bay is a stunner, with a palm-fringed, patrolled swimming beach, and a stinger net in summer.
2Activities
oHartley's
Crocodile AdventuresANIMAL
SANCTUARY
(%07-4055
3576; www.crocodileadventures.com;
Captain Cook Hwy, Wangetti
Beach; adult/child $35/17.50; h8.30am-5pm
daily)S
North of Ellis Beach, towards Port Douglas, Hartley’s Crocodile Adventures is stealing the limelight from a bunch of other attractions. Their daily range of exciting events includes tours of this croc farm, along with feedings, ‘crocodile attack’ shows and cruises. Rest assured, you will see crocodiles up close and personal. Not for the squeamish!
4Sleeping & Eating
Ellis Beach Oceanfront BungalowsCARAVAN PARK
(%1800 637
036; www.ellisbeach.com;
Captain Cook Hwy; unpowered
sites $32, bungalows from $155; ais)
This low-key, palm-shaded, beachfront slice of paradise, has camping, cabins and contemporary bungalows, all of which enjoy wide-screen ocean views in full high definition.
Ellis Beach Bar 'n' GrillPUB FOOD
(%07-4055
3534; ellisbeachbarandgrill.com.au;
Captain Cook Hwy; mains from
$16; h8am-8pm)
Just try to drive past the Ellis Beach Bar 'n' Grill and not stop for a beer and a burger. Oh, and did we mention $1 oysters and live music on Sundays?
This is the only place in Ellis to get a meal.