Byron Bay & Northern New South Wales

Byron Bay & Northern New South Wales

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Why Go?

Beach towns and national parks leapfrog each other all the way up this stupendous stretch of coast. Inland, lush farmland and ancient tracts of World Heritage–listed rainforest do the same.

Providing a buffer between New South Wales' big cities to the south and Queensland's built-up Gold Coast to the north, the North Coast offers an altogether quieter and simpler way of life. In cute little towns throughout the region dyed-in-the-wool country types rub shoulders with big-city escapees and posthippie alternative lifestylers – if you're looking for fresh local produce, a top-notch meal or a psychic reading, you shouldn't be disappointed. And if you're searching for a surf break, rest assured that there will be an awesome one around the next corner.

When to Go

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AJun–Jul Winter brings migrating whales to the coast, lanterns to Lismore and rockers to Byron Bay.

ASep–Nov Returning whales, blooming jacarandas and Byron Bay's Surf Fest.

ADec–Apr Life's a beach; there are Tropical Fruits in Lismore and Byron gets the blues.

Byron Bay & Northern New South Wales Highlights

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1 Laying claim to your own stretch of empty beach in coastal wilderness such as Myall Lakes National Park.

2 Delving into the ancient World Heritage–listed Gondwana rainforest of Dorrigo National Park.

3 Getting closely acquainted with whales and dolphins in a cruise from Port Stephens.

4 Enjoying the charm of pretty hinterland villages such as Bellingen.

5 Learning to surf amid spouting whales in Byron Bay.

6 Cruising the bucolic back roads along the Macleay River in Kempsey Shire.

7 Witnessing the weird blend of farmers, hippies and foodies at market days such as the one held in Bangalow.

8Getting There & Around

Air

There are domestic airports at Taree, Port Macquarie, Coffs Harbour (great for Bellingen), Grafton, Ballina (Byron Bay) and Lismore. Additionally, Newcastle Airport is handy for Port Stephens, and Gold Coast Airport is only 4km from Tweed Heads.

Bus

Greyhound (www.greyhound.com.au) and Premier (www.premierms.com.au) both have coach services linking Sydney and Brisbane via the Pacific Hwy. Other companies cover smaller stretches along the way.

Train

NSW TrainLink (www.nswtrainlink.info) services between Sydney and Brisbane stop at Wingham, Taree, Nambucca Heads, Coffs Harbour and Grafton.

Ballina & Byron Shires

Where back-to-nature meets life's-a-beach, this stretch of coast offers a mix of family-friendly and party-hearty destinations. The beachy towns of Ballina and Lennox Heads are less buzzy options than the tourist Babylon of Byron Bay to the north.

Byron Bay

Pop 4960

The reputation of this famous beach town precedes it to such an extent that first impressions may leave you wondering what all the fuss is about. The beaches are great, but there are spectacular beaches all along this coast. What makes Byron special is the singular vibe of the town itself. It's here that coastal surf culture flows into the hippie tide washing down from the hinterland, creating one great barefooted, alternative-lifestyle mash-up.

The town centre is low-rise and relaxed, and the locals are dedicated to preserving its essential small-town soul. Of course Byron does get crowded and it also attracts its fair share of off-the-leash teens. Yet its unique atmosphere has a way of converting even the most cynical with its long, balmy days, endless beaches, reliable surf breaks, fine food, raucous nightlife and ambling milieu.

James Cook named Cape Byron, mainland Australia’s most easterly point, after renowned navigator John Byron, grandfather of the poet Lord Byron. Later bureaucrats mistakenly planned out streets named after fellow poets such as Jonson, Burns and Shelley.

1Sights

icon-top-choiceoCape Byron State Conservation ParkSTATE PARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/cape-byron-state-conservation-area)

The views from the summit are spectacular, rewarding those who have climbed up from the Captain Cook Lookout ( GOOGLE MAP ; Lighthouse Rd; icon-cargifu) on the Cape Byron Walking Track. Ribboning around the headland, the track dips and (mostly) soars its way to the lighthouse ( GOOGLE MAP ; Lighthouse Rd; icon-hoursgifh10am-4pm). Along the way, look out for dolphins (year-round) and migrating whales during their northern (June to July) and southern (September to November) migrations. You're also likely to encounter brush turkeys and wallabies. Allow about two hours for the entire 3.7km loop.

Inside the 1901 lighthouse there are maritime and nature displays. If you want to venture to the top you'll need to take one of the volunteer-run tours, which operate from around 10am to 3pm (gold-coin donation). There's also a cafe here and self-contained accommodation in the lighthouse-keeper's cottages.

You can drive right up to the lighthouse and pay $7 for the privilege of parking (or nothing at all if you chance upon a park in the small lot 300m below).

Beaches

West of the town centre, wild Belongil Beach ( GOOGLE MAP ) with its high dunes avoids the worst of the crowds and is clothing optional in parts. At its eastern end is the Wreck, a powerful right-hand surf break.

Immediately in front of town, lifesaver-patrolled Main Beach ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) is busy from sunrise to sunset with yoga classes, buskers and fire dancers. As it stretches east it merges into Clarkes Beach ( GOOGLE MAP ). The most popular surf break is at the Pass near the eastern headland.

Around the rocks is gorgeous Watego’s Beach ( GOOGLE MAP ), a wide crescent of white sand surrounded by rainforest. A further 400m walk brings you to secluded Little Watego’s ( GOOGLE MAP ) (inaccessible by car) another lovely patch of sand directly under rocky Cape Byron. Head here at sunset for an impressive moon rise. Tucked under the south side of the Cape (entry via Tallow Beach Rd) is Cosy Corner which offers a decent size wave and sheltered beach when the northerlies are blowing elsewhere.

Tallow Beach ( GOOGLE MAP ) is a deserted sandy stretch that extends for 7km south from Cape Byron. This is the place to flee the crowds. Much of the beach is backed by Arakwal National Park, but the suburb of Suffolk Park sprawls along the sand near its southern end. Kings Beach ( GOOGLE MAP ) is a popular gay beach, just off Seven Mile Beach Rd past the Broken Head Holiday Park.

2Activities

Adventure sports abound in Byron Bay and most operators offer a free pick-up service from local accommodation. Surfing and diving are the biggest draws.

Surfing

Most hostels provide free boards to guests, or you can rent equipment.

Black Dog SurfingSURFING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6680 9828; www.blackdogsurfing.com; 11 Byron St; 3½hr lessons $60)

Intimate group lessons including women’s and kids' courses. Highly rated.

Surfing Byron BaySURFING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6685 7099; www.gosurfingbyronbay.com; 84 Jonson St; 2½hr lessons $60)

Surfing lessons for adults and kids, plus a 'surf yoga' combo.

Byron Bay Surf SchoolSURFING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1800 707 274; www.byronbaysurfschool.com; 29 Shirley St; 3½hr lessons $65)

Lessons and surf camps.

MojosurfSURFING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1800 113 044; www.mojosurf.com; 9 Marvell St; 1/2 lessons $69/119)

Lessons and epic surf safaris.

Soul Surf SchoolSURFING

(icon-phonegif%1800 089 699; www.soulsurfschool.com.au; 4hr lessons $59)

Half-day to five-day courses for beginners.

Diving

About 3km offshore, Julian Rocks Marine Reserve is a meeting point for cold southerly and warm northerly currents, attracting a profusion of marine species including three types of turtle. You might spot leopard sharks and manta rays in summer, and grey nurse sharks in winter.

SundiveDIVING, SNORKELLING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6685 7755; www.sundive.com.au; 8/9-11 Byron St; dives from $95, snorkelling tours $65)

Two to three expeditions to Julian Rocks daily, plus various courses.

Dive Byron BayDIVING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6685 8333; www.byronbaydivecentre.com.au; 9 Marvell St; dives from $99, snorkelling tours $65; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm)

Freediving course $495 and PADI courses from $325.

Flying & Other Airborne Pursuits

Byron Bay BallooningBALLOONING

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1300 889 660; www.byronbayballooning.com.au; Tyagarah Airfield; adult/child $325/175)

Sunrise flights including champagne breakfast.

Skydive Byron BaySKYDIVING

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6684 1323; www.skydivebyronbay.com; Tyagarah Airfield; tandem flights from $334)

Hurtle to earth from 14,000ft.

Byron AirwavesHANG-GLIDING

(icon-phonegif%02-6629 0354; www.byronair.com)

Tandem hang-gliding ($145) and courses ($1500).

Byron Bay MicrolightsMICROLIGHTING

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0407 281 687; www.byronbaymicrolights.com.au; Tyagarah Airfield; 15-/30-/45-min flights $100/180/245)

Whale watching ($180) and scenic flights ($100).

Byron GlidingGLIDING

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6684 7627; www.byrongliding.com; Tyagarah Airfield; flights from $120)

Scenic flights over the coast and hinterland.

Alternative Therapies

Byron is an alternative-therapy heartland, offering a diverse range of treatments claiming to heal the body and mind.

Byron at Byron SpaSPA

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6639 2110; www.thebyronatbyron.com.au/spa; 77-97 Broken Head Rd; 1-hr massages from $145)

Six ultraluxurious treatment rooms nestled among the rainforest. Includes use of the resort swimming pool.

Be Salon & SpaSPA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0413 432 584; www.besalonspa.com.au; 14 Middleton St; 30-min massages $60)

Manicures, pedicures, facials and waxing are offered alongside psychic readings, massage, 're-balancing' and naturopathy.

Relax HavenMASSAGE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6685 8304; www.relaxhaven.com.au; 107 Jonson St; icon-hoursgifh10am-6.30pm)

Flotation tanks (one hour $79), massage (one hour $89), kinesiology, 'quantum hypnotherapy' and 'theta energy healing'.

Other

Go Sea KayaksKAYAKING

(icon-phonegif%0416 222 344; www.goseakayakbyronbay.com.au; adult/child $69/59)icon-sustainableS

If you don’t see a whale, turtle or dolphin, you can go again for free.

Surf & Bike HireBICYCLE RENTAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6680 7066; www.byronbaysurfandbikehire.com.au; 31 Lawson St; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm)

Rents bikes and surfboards (from $10 per day) plus other active gear.

TTours

Mountain Bike ToursMOUNTAIN BIKING

(icon-phonegif%0429 122 504; www.mountainbiketours.com.au; half-/full day $59/99)icon-sustainableS

Environmentally aware bike tours into the rainforest and along the coast.

Vision WalksWILDLIFE TOUR

(icon-phonegif%02-6685 0059; www.visionwalks.com; night tours adult/child $99/75, other tours from $45/28)

See all manner of creatures in their natural habitat, including nocturnal animals (on the Night Vision Walk) and hippies (on the Hippie Trail Hinterland Tour).

Byron Bay Adventure ToursHIKING

(icon-phonegif%1300 120 028; www.byronbayadventuretours.com.au; day tours $119)

Day walks and overnight tours to Mt Warning and the hinterland.

zFestivals & Events

Byron Bay BluesfestMUSIC

(www.bluesfest.com.au; Tyagarah Tea Tree Farm; icon-hoursgifhEaster; icon-wifigifW)

Held over Easter, this jam attracts high-calibre international performers and local heavyweights.

Splendour in the GrassMUSIC

(www.splendourinthegrass.com; North Byron Parklands; icon-hoursgifhJul)

Three-day festival featuring big-name indie artists in late July.

Byron Bay Writers' FestivalLITERATURE

(www.byronbaywritersfestival.com.au; icon-hoursgifhearly Aug)

In early August, this festival gathers together top-shelf writers and literary followers from across Australia.

Byron Bay Surf FestivalSURFING

(www.byronbaysurffestival.com; icon-hoursgifhlate Oct)

Three-day, late-October celebration of surf culture.

4Sleeping

Book well in advance for January or during any of the annual music festivals. If you're not 17, Schoolies Week, which actually runs for about a month from mid-November, is one to avoid. During these periods, places taking one-night-only bookings are rare.

Booking services include Byron Bay Accom ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6680 8666; www.byronbayaccom.net; 6/73-75 Jonson St; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun).

Byron Beach ResortHOSTEL

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6685 7868; byronbeachresort.com.au; 25 Childe St; dm $18-30, d from $90, 2-bed apt from $150)

This fabulous, well-managed resort opposite Belongil Beach is a terrific and affordable alternative to staying in central Byron. Attractive dorms, cottages and self-contained apartments are scattered through the hammock-filled gardens. There's daily yoga, free bikes and the fun Treehouse pub next door. It's a 15-minute walk (or free shuttle ride) down the Belongil Beach into town.

Cape Byron YHAHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6685 8788; www.yha.com.au; cnr Middleton & Byron Sts; dm $38-40, d without bathroom $100/140; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-swimgifs)icon-sustainableS

Gathered around an attractive palm-lined heated pool this modern, tidy complex is in the centre of town and only a short walk away from the beach. Friendly and knowledgeable staff run free walking tours and other activities. There are substantial discounts in the low season.

Nomads Arts Factory LodgeHOSTEL

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6685 7709; www.nomadsworld.com/arts-factory; Skinners Shoot Rd; camp sites/dm/d from $17/34/90; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)icon-sustainableS

For an archetypal Byron experience, try this ramshackle hostel by a picturesque swamp, 15-minutes walk from town. Choose from colourful six- to 10-bed dorms, a female-only lakeside cottage, or tepees. Couples can opt for aptly titled ‘cube’ rooms, island-retreat canvas huts or the pricier 'love shack' with bathroom. There's yoga, didge lessons and regular bush-tucker walks.

AquariusHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6685 7663; www.aquarius-backpackers.com.au; 16 Lawson St; dm/motel r from $35/120; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

This motel-style backpackers across the road from the beach has balconies off each room and plenty of communal space – including a bar with pool table and ping pong. Motel rooms have kitchenettes and some have spa baths. Dorms are for international guests only.

NomadsHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6680 7966; www.nomadsworld.com; 1 Lawson Lane; dm $48-52, d $150-190; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

Byron’s biggest (and priciest) backpackers packs a punch with its glossy designer-led decor. The dorm rooms are comfortable, but they’re not half as good as the king rooms, which have a bathroom, fridge and plasma television.

Clarkes Beach Holiday ParkCAMPGROUND

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6685 6496; www.northcoastparks.com.au/clarkes; off Lighthouse Rd; camp sites/cabins from $46/175; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

The tightly packed cabins and shady tent sites at this holiday park sit within an attractive bush setting, close to the beach and the lighthouse.

Arcadia HouseB&B

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6680 8699; www.arcadiahousebyron.com.au; 48 Cowper St; r from $155; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

Amid a large garden on a quiet street is this delightful old Queenslander with airy verandas and six elegant rooms with four-poster beds. It's about a 10-minute walk to the beach, or jump on a complimentary bike.

Aabi's at ByronGUESTHOUSE

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6680 9519; www.guesthousesbyronbay.com.au; 17 Ruskin St; r from $180; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)icon-sustainableS

Statues of Hindu deities watch over the pool at this gorgeous contemporary complex. Rooms are luxurious, plus there's a shared kitchen, lounge, BBQ and large pool and spa.

Bamboo CottageGUESTHOUSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0414 187 088; www.byron-bay.com/bamboocottage; 76 Butler St; s/d without bathroom $129/149, d with bathroom $169, apt $240; icon-wifigifWicon-petgif#)

Featuring global charm and a tropical setting, Bamboo Cottage treats guests to Asian- and Pacific Island–inflected rooms in a home-away-from-home atmosphere. It’s on the quiet side of the tracks.

Byron Springs GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0457 808 101; www.byronsprings.com.au; 2 Oodgeroo Garden; s/d without bathroom from $75/110, d with bathroom $150; icon-parkgifpicon-wifigifW)

Polished floorboards, white linen and a leafy setting a couple of kilometres south of town make this a good choice if you like to be removed from the throng. A continental breakfast is included and there are complimentary bikes

Byron Central ApartmentsAPARTMENTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6685 8800; www.byroncentral.com; 5-7 Byron St; apt $136-210; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

Hidden within a town-centre commercial building a couple of blocks from the beach, this complex has a pleasant set of apartments grouped around a swimming pool. The 'deluxe' units have loft bedrooms, new furnishings and full kitchens.

Glen-Villa ResortRESORT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6685 7382; www.glenvillaresort.com.au; 80-86 Butler St; cabins from $110; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

Targeting couples via a strict two-person-per-booking rule (groups and families should look elsewhere), this holiday park is clean, comfortable and secure. It’s tucked away in the backstreets and blissfully quiet.

Hibiscus MotelMOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6685 6195; www.hibiscusmotel.com.au; 33 Lawson St; d from $155; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

Ignore the highway motel exterior and you'll discover spacious and sparkling clean rooms, not to mention welcoming staff. Less than a minute to the surf.

icon-top-choiceoAtlanticHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6685 5118; www.atlanticbyronbay.com.au; 13 Marvell St; r from $180; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

There are three fabulously decorated Caribbean-style plantation cottages at this chic enclave in the centre of town, all with private decks opening on to tropical gardens. If this wasn't cool enough, there's also the option of sleeping in a polished-aluminium Airstream caravan parked on the back lawn.

icon-top-choiceoByron Bay CottagesCOTTAGES

(icon-phonegif%02-6620 9300; www.byronbaylighthouse.com; cottages from $350)

Byron’s best-kept secret requires booking well in advance. It's worth it for the experience of staying in one of these four restored 1920s cottages (sleeping four to seven) metres from the sand of Clarkes Beach, or in the heritage-listed Assistant Lighthouse Keepers’ Cottages.

Byron at ByronRESORT

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6639 2000; www.thebyronatbyron.com.au; 77-97 Broken Head Rd; ste from $390; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)icon-sustainableS

About 4km south of town, these luxe one-bedroom villas are spread through the resort's jungle-like greenery. When you’re not drinking cocktails by the infinity pool, taking complimentary yoga classes or indulging in the spa, follow the boardwalks down to Tallow Beach.

5Eating

icon-top-choiceoThe RoadhouseCAFE

(icon-phonegif%0403 355 498; byronbaycafebar.com.au; 6/142 Bangalow Rd; mains $14; icon-hoursgifh6am-3pm Mon, to 10pm Tue-Sun)

A short trip out of town will find you at Byron's most atmospheric night spot. Rocking incredible, locally sourced wholefoods and elixirs by day, Roadhouse transforms into a dimly lit, blues-infused bar at night with more than 500 types of whisky on the menu. Book ahead.

Top ShopCAFE

( GOOGLE MAP ; 65 Carlyle St; mains $10-14; icon-hoursgifh6.30am-5pm)

On the hill east of town, Top Shop has long been the choice of local surfers. Today it's an upmarket version of the old-school takeaway, with diners ripping into breakfast burgers, sausage rolls and quinoa kale salads on the lawn while chugging back home-made ice coffees.

Three Blue Ducks at the FarmFARM RESTAURANT

(icon-phonegif%02-6684 7888; www.thefarmbyronbay.com.au; 11 Ewingsdale Rd , Ewingsdale)

After the success of their first Sydney cafe, the team from the Three Blue Ducks decided to move up north and showcase their paddock to plate food philosophy on the grounds of this lovely cattle and chicken farm just out of Byron.

Naked TreatiesCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.nakedtreaties.com.au; 2/3 Marvell S; items $8-15; icon-hoursgifh8am-4pm; icon-veggifv)

This raw bar celebrates everything vegan, organic, and gluten, dairy and sugar free. There's an encyclopedia of superfood smoothies, plus a rotating menu of savoury goods including raw pad thai. Cold-pressed organic coffee is made with fresh almond milk and sweetened with coconut nectar.

Bay Leaf CaféCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/bayleafcoffee; 2 Marvell St; mains $9-17; icon-hoursgifh6.30am-5pm)

Green juice–sipping diners spill down the front steps of this hip, wedge-shaped cafe where breakfast is the star. The small but excellent menu is prepared in a busy open kitchen and might feature vanilla wild-rice risotto or house-made crumpets with rum-and-raisin caramelised banana.

Blue OliveDELI

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 27 Lawson St; mains $10-13; icon-hoursgifh10am-5.30pm Tue-Sat, to 4pm Sun)

Fine cheeses, deli items and light meals; enjoy the beautifully prepared foods at shady pavement tables or decamp to the beach.

Italian at the PacificITALIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6680 7055; www.italianatthepacific.com.au; 2 Bay St; mains $28-36; icon-hoursgifh6-10pm)

Adjoining the Beach Hotel, this lively Italian offers only a limited selection of pasta and larger dishes, but what it does do, it does well. Try the slow-cooked lamb-shank lasagne – it might just be the best you've ever tasted.

Byron Beach CafeCAFE

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6685 8400; www.byronbeachcafe.com.au; Lawson St; mains breakfast $15-22, lunch & dinner $25-33; icon-hoursgifh7.30am-5pm Sun-Wed, to 9pm Thu-Sat)

Step out of the surf and straight into this iconic cafe right on Clarkes Beach, the ideal spot for a lazy brunch. There are loads of interesting breakfast options and the menu gets more restaurant-like as the day progresses.

St ElmoSPANISH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6680 7426; www.stelmodining.com; cnr Fletcher St & Lawson Lane; dishes $14-26; icon-hoursgifh4-11pm Mon-Sat, to 10pm Sun)

Perch on a designer stool at this buzzing tapas restaurant, where good-looking staff create magical cocktails and the wine list extends to over 100 different drops. The sharp, Iberian-inspired menu has some fantastic seafood plates.

Orgasmic FoodMIDDLE EASTERN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6680 7778; 11 Bay Lane; mains $15-25; icon-hoursgifh10am-10pm; icon-veggifv)

This alley eatery is one giant step above a falafel stall. Its hearty mezze plates are ideal for picnics.

Cicchetti Byron BayITALIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6685 6677; www.cicchetti.com.au; 108 Jonson St; shared plates $16-22, mains $38, 5-course degustation $75; icon-hoursgifh5.30-11pm Mon-Thu, noon-11pm Fri-Sun)

This glamorous restaurant, with an all-Italian staff, is hugely popular. The crowds love the on-trend dining featuring an extensive list of Venetian antipasto dishes and generous mains (for a minimum of two). Solo diners can perch at the bar with a cocktail and a board of goodies.

Byron at Byron RestaurantMODERN AUSTRALIAN

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6639 2111; www.thebyronatbyron.com.au; 77-97 Broken Head Rd; mains $37-40; icon-hoursgifh8am-9pm)

With flickering candles and a rainforest backdrop this intimate resort restaurant offers light, Mediterranean-style dishes created around the best of Northern Rivers produce, such as sweet Bangalow pork and Yamba prawns. On Thursday night there's a good-value two-course Farmers’ Market dinner ($49).

Petit SnailFRENCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6685 8526; www.thepetitsnail.com.au; 5 Carlyle St; mains $31-45; icon-hoursgifh6.30-9.30pm Wed-Sat; icon-veggifv)

Get stuck into traditional Gallic fare such as steak tartare, duck confit and lots of fromage. There’s outdoor dining on the veranda. Vegetarians get their own menu (mains $21 to $25).

6Drinking & Nightlife

For entertainment listings, check out the gig guide in Thursday’s Byron Shire News (www.byronnews.com.au) or tune into Bay 99.9 FM.

Byron Bay Brewing CoBREWERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.byronbaybrewery.com.au; 1 Skinners Shoot Rd; icon-hoursgifhnoon-late Mon-Sat, to 10pm Sun)

At this old piggery turned booze barn you can drink frosty glasses of house pale lager amid the brewing vats or sit outside in the tropical courtyard under the shade of a giant fig tree. Entertainment includes live music, DJs and trivia nights. Brewery tours are held at 4pm.

Balcony BarBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6680 9666; www.balcony.com.au; Level 1, 3 Lawson St; icon-hoursgifh8am-11pm)icon-sustainableS

With its veranda poking out amid the palm trees overlooking the centre of town, this tapas and cocktail bar is a fine place to park yourself, particularly during the sunset happy hour.

Miss MargaritaBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6685 6828; missmargarita.com.au; 2 Jonson St; icon-hoursgifh12-3pm & 5pm-1am Mon-Fri, 11.30-1am Sat & Sun)

A beach cantina offering seven versions of the classic margarita and an array of colourful, fruity cocktails. Soak up the tequila with enchiladas, salsa and creamy guacamole.

Railway Friendly BarPUB

(The Rails; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6685 7662; www.therailsbyronbay.com; 86 Jonson St; icon-hoursgifh11am-late)

This indoor-outdoor pub draws everyone from lobster-red British tourists to high-on-life earth mothers. The front beer garden, conducive to boozy afternoons, has live music and excellent food.

Woody's Surf ShackBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.woodysbyronbay.com; The Plaza, 90-96 Jonson St; icon-hoursgifh8pm-3am Mon-Sat)

Traditionally the last stop of the night, there's now a lockout for this clubby bar, so if you fancy shooting pool until 3am you'll need to get in before 1.30am.

Great NorthernPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6685 6454; www.thenorthern.com.au; 35-43 Jonson St; icon-hoursgifhnoon-late)

This grungy live-music stalwart is brash and boisterous and plays host to everyone from Billy Bragg to Dizzee Rascal.

Beach HotelPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.beachhotel.com.au; cnr Jonson & Bay Sts; icon-hoursgifh11am-late)

Soak up the atmosphere and the views in the iconic beachfront beer garden. Out the back they screen surf movies, and the original Crocodile Dundee hat adorns the bar.

Treehouse on BelongilPUB

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6680 9452; www.treehouseonbelongil.com; 25 Childe St; icon-hoursgifh7.30am-11pm)

A homespun beach bar where wooden decks spill out among the trees and live, original music is played all weekend. Most of the food comes from the wood-fired oven and there's a great menu of icy beverages.

CocomangasCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cocomangas.com.au; 32 Jonson St; icon-hoursgifh9pm-late Wed-Sat)

Byron's longest-standing nightclub, with regular backpacker nights. No entry after 1.30am.

LaLaLandCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6680 7070; www.lalalandbyronbay.com.au; 6 Lawson St; icon-hoursgifh5pm-3am)

Stylishly renovated, this is one of Byron's better clubs.

3Entertainment

Pighouse FlicksCINEMA

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6685 5828; www.pighouseflicks.com.au; 1 Skinners Shoot Rd; tickets $10-14)

Attached to Byron Bay Brewing Co, this lounge cinema shows classic reruns and art-house flicks.

7Shopping

Byron has surprisingly good shopping, from upmarket boutiques to hippie stores draped in dreamcatchers.

Markets include a weekly Farmers' Market ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.byronfarmersmarket.com.au; Butler Street Reserve; icon-hoursgifh8-11am Thu) and Artisan Market ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.byronmarkets.com.au; Railway Park, Jonson St; icon-hoursgifh4-9pm Sat Nov-Mar), and the Byron Community Market ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.byronmarkets.com.au; Butler Street Reserve; icon-hoursgifh8am-2pm 1st Sun of the month).

8Information

Bay Centre MedicalMEDICAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6685 6206; www.byronmed.com.au; 6 Lawson St; icon-hoursgifh8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat)

Byron District HospitalHOSPITAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6685 6200; www.ncahs.nsw.gov.au; cnr Wordsworth & Shirley Sts; icon-hoursgifh24hr)

Byron Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6680 8558; www.visitbyronbay.com; Stationmaster's Cottage, 80 Jonson St; admission by donation; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm)

Ground zero for tourist information, and last-minute accommodation and bus bookings.

8Getting There & Away

Bus

Coaches stop on Jonson St near the tourist office.

Blanch'sBUS

(icon-phonegif%02-6686 2144; www.blanchs.com.au)

Regular buses to/from Ballina Byron Gateway Airport ($9.60, one hour), Ballina ($9.60, 55 minutes), Lennox Head ($7.60, 35 minutes), Bangalow ($6.40, 20 minutes) and Mullumbimby ($6.40, 25 minutes).

Brisbane Byron ExpressBUS

(icon-phonegif%1800 626 222; www.brisbane2byron.com)

Two daily buses to/from Brisbane ($38, two hours) and Brisbane Airport ($54, three hours); only one on Sunday.

Byron Bay ExpressBUS

(www.byronbayexpress.com.au)

Five buses a day to/from Gold Coast Airport (1¾ hours) and Surfers Paradise (2¼ hours) for $30/55 one way/return.

Byron Easy BusBUS

(icon-phonegif%02-6685 7447; www.byronbayshuttle.com.au)

Minibus service to Ballina Byron Gateway Airport ($20, 40 minutes), Gold Coast Airport ($39, two hours), Brisbane ($40, 3½ hours) and Brisbane Airport ($54, four hours).

GreyhoundBUS

(icon-phonegif%1300 473 946; www.greyhound.com.au)

Coaches to/from Sydney (from $95, 12 to 14 hours, three daily), Port Macquarie ($75, six hours, two daily), Nambucca Heads ($59, 4½ hours, two daily), Coffs Harbour ($46, 3½ hours, four daily) and Brisbane ($38, four hours, five daily).

Northern Rivers BuslinesBUS

(icon-phonegif%02-6626 1499; www.nrbuslines.com.au)

Weekday buses to/from Lismore (1½ hours), Bangalow (30 minutes) and Mullumbimby (20 minutes); all $9.70.

NSW TrainLinkBUS

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%13 22 32; www.nswtrainlink.info; Jonson St)

TrainLink coaches can be booked at the old train station. Destinations include Grafton ($25, 3¾ hours), Yamba ($13.70, three hours), Ballina ($7, 41 minutes), Lismore ($9.22, one hour) and Murwillumbah ($9.22, one hour).

PremierBUS

(icon-phonegif%13 34 10; www.premierms.com.au)

Daily coach to/from Sydney ($92, 14 hours), Port Macquarie ($66, 7½ hours), Nambucca Heads ($58, 5¾ hours), Coffs Harbour ($50, five hours) and Brisbane ($30, 3½ hours).

Car

Earth Car RentalsCAR RENTAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6685 7472; www.earthcar.com.au; 1 Byron St)icon-sustainableS

HertzCAR RENTAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6680 7925; www.hertz.com.au; 5 Marvell St)

8Getting Around

Byron Bay TaxisTAXI

(icon-phonegif%02-6685 5008; www.byronbaytaxis.com.au; icon-hoursgifh24hr)

Lennox Head

Pop 7000

A protected National Surfing Reserve, Lennox Head's picturesque coastline has some of the best surf on the coast, with a world-class point break. Its village atmosphere makes it a mellow alternative to its boisterous well-touristed neighbour, Byron, 17km north.

1Sights

Seven Mile BeachBEACH

Long, lovely Seven Mile Beach starts at the township and stretches north. There's 4WD access though you will need a permit from the Caltex Service Station. The best place for a dip is near the surf club, at the northern end of town.

Lake AinsworthLAKE

Lying just inshore from the beach, this freshwater lake is tinged brown by tannins leeching from the tea trees along its banks. Don't fret: they're supposedly beneficial to the skin. The Lennox Head Community Market (Lennox Head Community Centre; icon-hoursgifh8am-2pm 2nd & 5th Sun of month) is held on the foreshore.

2Activities

Wind & WaterWINDSURFING, SURFING

(icon-phonegif%0419 686 188; www.windnwater.net; 1hr lesson from $80)

Windsurfing, kitesurfing and board surfing lessons on Lake Ainsworth and Seven Mile Beach.

Seabreeze Hang GlidingADVENTURE SPORTS

(icon-phonegif%0428 560 248; www.seabreezehanggliding.com; from $145)

Leap off Lennox Head or Cape Byron on a tandem flight, or learn how to go it solo.

4Sleeping & Eating

Real-estate agency Professionals (icon-phonegif%02-6687 7579; www.lennoxheadaccom.net.au; 72 Ballina St) has a large range of holiday rentals.

Lennox Head Beach House YHAHOSTEL

(icon-phonegif%02-6687 7636; www.yha.com.au; 3 Ross St; dm/s/d $34/55/82; icon-internetgifi)

Only 100m from the beach, this place has immaculate rooms and a great vibe. For $5 you can use the surfboards, sailboards and bikes.

Lake Ainsworth Holiday ParkCAMPGROUND

(icon-phonegif%02-6687 7249; www.northcoastholidayparks.com.au; Pacific Pde; camp sites/cabins from $33/95; icon-wifigifW)

By the lake and near the beach, this family-friendly holiday park has a wide range of units, from rustic cabins without bathrooms to a deluxe villa sleeping six. There's new amenities and a kitchen for campers.

Lennox Point Holiday ApartmentsAPARTMENTS

(icon-phonegif%02-6687 5900; www.lennoxholidayapartments.com; 20-21 Pacific Pde; apt from $180; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

Gaze at the surf from your modern apartment or take a splash with a borrowed board from reception. The one-bedroom apartments are the same size as the two-bedrooms, so they feel more spacious.

Cafe MariusLATIN AMERICAN

(icon-phonegif%02-6687 5897; www.cafemarius.com.au; 90-92 Ballina St; mains $15-22; icon-hoursgifh7am-3.30pm Mon-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat, 8am-3.30pm Sun)

Hip kids serve a delicious selection of Latin American and Spanish treats from morning to late in this cool little licensed cafe.

FoamMODERN AUSTRALIAN

(icon-phonegif%02-6687 7757; www.foamlennox.com; 41 Pacific Pde; breakfast mains $10-17, lunch mains $26-36)

With the atmosphere of a luxury beach house, the deck at Foam is the ultimate spot to share a bottle of cold white wine and a long lunch as you gape at the beauty of Seven Mile Beach.

8Getting There & Away

Blanch'sBUS

(icon-phonegif%02-6686 2144; www.blanchs.com.au)

Regular buses to/from Ballina Byron Gateway Airport ($6.40, 30 minutes), Ballina ($6.40, 15 minutes), Byron Bay ($7.60, 35 minutes) and Mullumbimby ($10, one hour).

Northern Rivers BuslinesBUS

(icon-phonegif%02-6626 1499; www.nrbuslines.com.au)

One or two buses to/from Lismore on weekdays ($9.70, one hour).

Ballina

Pop 19,000

At the mouth of the Richmond River, Ballina is spoilt for white sandy beaches and crystal-clear waters. In the late 19th century it was a rich lumber town; a scattering of gracious historic buildings can still be found on its backstreets. These days Ballina is popular with family holidaymakers and retirees, and home to the region’s airport.

1Sights

Just across the bridge at the east of the main strip is calm Shaws Bay Lagoon, a popular place for family splashes. Nearby Shelly Beach is white, sandy and patrolled. South Ballina Beach is a good excursion option via the car ferry on Burns Point Ferry Rd.

Ballina Naval & Maritime MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6681 1002; www.ballinamaritimemuseum.org.au; 8 Regatta Ave; adult/child $5/2; icon-hoursgifh9am-4pm)

In the 19th century Ballina was the third-biggest port in NSW, and following WWII many ex-navy personnel took jobs in the shipyards here. The most interesting display is the actual balsa-wood raft that sailed across the Pacific from Ecuador as part of the Las Balsas expedition, which docked in Ballina in 1973.

Big PrawnLANDMARK

(Ballina Bunnings, 507 River St)

Ballina's big prawn was nearly thrown on the BBQ in 2009, but no-one had the stomach to dispatch it. After a 5000-signature pro-prawn petition and a $400,000 restoration in 2013, the 9m, 35-tonne, 14-year-old crustacean is looking as tasty as ever.

2Activities

Ballina Boat HireBOATING

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0402 028 767; www.ballinaboathire.com.au; rear 268 River St; per half-day $90)icon-sustainableS

Has tinnies for fishing, barbecue boats and catamarans.

Summerland Surf SchoolSURFING

(icon-phonegif%0428 824 393; www.summerlandsurfschool.com.au; 2hr lesson $69)

Based south of Ballina in Evans Head.

Kool KatzSURFING

(icon-phonegif%02-6685 5169; www.koolkatzsurf.com; 4hr lesson $49)

Surf lessons at Shaws Bay, Shelly Beach or Lennox Head.

TTours

Kayak BallinaKAYAKING

(icon-phonegif%02-6681 4000; kayakballina.com; $85)

Kayak Ballina's beautiful dolphin-filled waterways on these three-hour guided tours; you can spot dolphins and migratory birds.

Richmond River CruisesCRUISE

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6687 5688; www.rrcruises.com.au; Regatta Ave; adult/child $30/15)

Chugs up the Richmond River on two-hour morning- and afternoon-tea cruises most Sundays and Wednesdays.

Aboriginal Cultural ConceptsCULTURAL TOUR

(icon-phonegif%0405 654 280; www.aboriginalculturalconcepts.com; half-/full-day tours per person $100/180; icon-hoursgifhWed-Sat)

Get an Indigenous insight into the local area on heritage tours exploring mythological sites along the Bundjalung coast.

4Sleeping

Shaws Bay Holiday ParkCARAVAN PARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6686 2326; www.northcoastholidayparks.com.au; 1 Brighton St; camp sites/cabins from $38/134; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

Manicured and well positioned, this park is on the lagoon and an easy walk from the centre. In addition to usual camping and caravan spots there's also a range of self-contained units, including three flash villas.

Ballina Palms Motor InnMOTEL

(icon-phonegif%02-6686 4477; www.ballinapalms.com; cnr Bentinck & Owen Sts; s/d $115/125; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

With its lush garden setting and tidy rooms, this well-kept place is our pick. The rooms aren't overly large, but they all have kitchenettes and snazzy furnishings.

Ballina ManorHOTEL

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6681 5888; www.ballinamanor.com.au; 25 Norton St; r $165-290; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

This former school has been converted into a luxurious guesthouse, filled with restored 1920s furnishings. All rooms are indulgent: the most grand has a four-poster bed and spa bath.

5Eating

BeanzFAST FOOD

(222 River St; mains $8-11; icon-hoursgifh11am-4pm; icon-veggifv)

For healthy fast food check out this salad bar on the main strip. Its predominately veggie options include falafel wraps, burgers and salads.

Ballina Gallery CafeCAFE

(icon-phonegif%02-6681 3888; www.ballinagallerycafe.com.au; 46 Cherry St; mains breakfast $12-18, lunch $14-26; icon-hoursgifh7.30am-3pm Wed-Sun)

Ballina's 1920s former council chambers are home to the town's best cafe. Interesting breakfasts like saganaki baked eggs and green fritters are offered with a side serve of contemporary art inside, or dine outside on the veranda.

Lighthouse Beach CafeCAFE

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6686 4380; lighthousebeachcafe.com.au; 65 Lighthouse Pde; breakfast mains $13-20, lunch mains $18, dinner $18-27; icon-hoursgifh7am-3pm Mon-Wed, to 9pm Thu-Sat, to 6pm Sun)

With terrific views of East Ballina's Lighthouse Beach, this family-friendly cafe at the surf club turns out hearty breakfast platters and some tasty pasta and seafood dishes.

7Shopping

During the daylight-saving months there's a weekly Twilight Market (Fawcett Park; icon-hoursgifh4-8pm Thu Oct-Mar), while the Ballina Missingham Farmers' Market (Kingsford Smith Dr; icon-hoursgifh6am-noon Sun) takes place year-round. The big one is Ballina Markets (Canal Rd; icon-hoursgifh7am-1pm 3rd Sun of the month), held by the river.

8Information

Ballina Airport Services DeskTOURIST INFORMATION

(Ballina Airport; icon-hoursgifh10.15am-noon & 3.15-5pm Tue, Thu & Sat, 3.15-5pm Mon, Wed, Fri & Sun)

An outpost of the information centre in town; opening hours are synced with flights.

Ballina visitor information centreTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6686 3484; www.discoverballina.com; 6 River St; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm)

8Getting There & Away

Air

Ballina Byron Gateway AirportAIRPORT

(BNK; icon-phonegif%02-6681 1858; www.ballinabyronairport.com.au; Southern Cross Dr)

Ballina Airport is 5km north of the centre of town. A taxi to the centre of Ballina should cost roughly $12 to $15 and there are regular Blanch's buses and shuttle services.

JetstarAIRLINE

(icon-phonegif%13 15 38; www.jetstar.com.au)

Flies to/from Sydney and Melbourne.

Regional ExpressAIRLINE

(Rex; icon-phonegif%13 17 13; www.regionalexpress.com.au)

Flies to/from Sydney.

VirginAIRLINE

(icon-phonegif%13 67 89; www.virginaustralia.com)

Flies to/from Sydney.

Airport Shuttles

Byron Easy BusBUS

(icon-phonegif%02-6685 7447; www.byronbayshuttle.com.au)

Scheduled door-to-door service from the airport to Lennox Head ($15, 15 minutes), Byron Bay ($20, 40 minutes) and Bangalow ($25, 50 minutes). Also shuttles from town to Gold Coast Airport ($39, 1¾ hours) and Brisbane Airport ($54, four hours).

Bus

Blanch'sBUS

(icon-phonegif%02-6686 2144; www.blanchs.com.au)

Local buses, including services to Lennox Head ($6.40, 15 minutes), Bangalow ($7.60, 30 minutes), Byron Bay ($9.60, 55 minutes) and Mullumbimby ($10, 1½ hours).

GreyhoundBUS

(icon-phonegif%1300 473 946; www.greyhound.com.au)

Has at least two coaches daily to/from Sydney ($147, 12½ hours), Nambucca Heads ($52, four hours), Coffs Harbour ($38, three hours), Byron Bay ($6, 45 minutes) and Brisbane ($40, 4½ hours).

Northern Rivers BuslinesBUS

(icon-phonegif%02-6626 1499; www.nrbuslines.com.au)

Eight buses to Lismore on weekdays and three on weekends ($9.70, 1¼ hours).

NSW TrainLinkTRAIN

(icon-phonegif%13 22 32; www.nswtrainlink.info)

Daily coaches to/from Grafton ($21, three hours), Yamba ($17, 2¼ hours), Lismore ($7, 45 minutes), Murwillumbah ($15, 1½ hours) and Tweed Heads ($20, two hours).

PremierBUS

(icon-phonegif%13 34 10; www.premierms.com.au)

Daily coach to/from Sydney ($92, 13¼ hours), Port Macquarie ($66, seven hours), Nambucca Heads ($52, 5¼ hours), Coffs Harbour ($47, 4½ hours) and Brisbane ($36, 4½ hours).

Car & Motorcycle

The airport has plenty of car-hire desks. If you’re driving to Byron Bay, take the prettier coast road through Lennox Head.

Mullumbimby & Brunswick Heads

Pop 3173 & 1636

These two intriguing towns straddle the Pacific Hwy 18km north of Byron Bay.

A pyramid-shaped mountain acts as a backdrop for inland Mullumbimby (aka Mullum), an attractive country town lined with lazy palms, tropical architecture and a cosmopolitan spread of cafes, boutiques and pubs. The four-day Mullum Music Festival (www.mullummusicfestival.com; icon-hoursgifhNov) at the end of November is the prime time to visit. There's also a weekly farmers' market (www.mullumfarmersmarket.org.au; Mullumbimby Showground, 51 Main Arm Rd; icon-hoursgifh7-11am Fri), and community markets on the third Saturday of the month.

Across the highway, beautiful Brunswick Heads (aka Bruns) reaps a bounty of fresh oysters and mud crabs from its peaceful Brunswick River inlets and beaches.

1Sights

Crystal Castle & Shambhala GardensGARDEN

(icon-phonegif%02-6684 3111; www.crystalcastle.com.au; 81 Monet Dr, Mullumbimby; adult/child $22/18)

These magical gardens are dotted with monolithic crystal pieces, a huge gold Buddha and mystical statues. Wander across the terraced lawns and through the bamboo forest or take a guided tour on Monday afternoons (1.30pm). There's an open-air cafe for a casual bite plus tarot readings and aura photos.

4Sleeping

Hotel BrunswickHOTEL

(icon-phonegif%02-6685 1236; www.hotelbrunswick.com.au; 4 Mullumbimbi St, Brunswick Heads; s/d without bathroom $55/85)

The 1940s Hotel Brunswick is a sight to behold. It has decent pub rooms and the restaurant (mains $20; open 10am to 9pm) serves great nosh. There’s live music Thursday to Sunday.

Brunswick River InnMOTEL

(icon-phonegif%02-6685 1010; www.brunswickriverinn.com.au; 2 The Terrace, Brunswick Heads; r from $159; icon-parkgifpicon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

This recently renovated motel has bright, spacious rooms with Brunswick River views from the balconies, and is just a quick walk to the surf beach.

5Eating

icon-top-choiceoMilk & HoneyPIZZA

(icon-phonegif%02-6684 1422; milkandhoneymullumbimby.com.au; 59a Station St, Mullumbimby; mains $24; icon-hoursgifh5-9pm Tue-Sat)

The wood-fire oven here turns out the best pizza in the region. Delicious combos such as pancetta, pineapple and pickled chilli or field mushroom, Parmesan and parsley are made with Byron market produce. Book ahead or be prepared to take-away.

Rock & Roll Coffee CompanyTHAI

(icon-phonegif%02-6684 4224; rockandrollcoffee.com.au; 3/55 Burringbar St, Mullumbimby; mains $15-20; icon-hoursgifh7.30am-3pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat, 5-9pm Wed-Fri)

Outstanding Thai-Vietnamese street food is the mainstay at this laneside diner. You can also kick back with a terrific coffee or dandelion tea.

8Getting There & Away

Blanch'sBUS

(icon-phonegif%02-6686 2144; www.blanchs.com.au)

Runs regular buses to/from Byron Bay ($6.40 25 minutes), Lennox Head ($10, one hour) and Ballina ($10, 1½ hours).

Northern Rivers BuselinesBUS

(icon-phonegif%02-6626 1499; www.nrbuslines.com.au)

Runs weekday buses to/from Byron Bay ($9.70, 20 minutes) and Bangalow ($9.70, 40 minutes).

NSW TrainLinkBUS

(icon-phonegif%13 22 32; www.nswtrainlink.info)

Services to Lismore ($8, one hour).

Lismore & the Tweed River Region

Away from the coast, the lush scenery, organic markets and alternative lifestyles make this one of Australia’s most alluring regions – for locals and visitors alike. In fact the post-hippie rural lifestyle out here has become so mainstream that the epicentre of Nimbin is almost a theme park.

Twenty-three million years ago, a giant shield volcano burst forth here, gifting the landscape its mysterious contours. Erosion has taken its toll and all that remains is the lava plug (the peculiarly shaped Wollumbin Mt Warning) and the giant ring of jagged ridges that outlines the caldera.

Bangalow

Pop 1520

Surrounded by subtropical forest and rolling green farmland, sophisticated Bangalow is home to a small, creative community, a dynamic, sustainable food scene and a range of urbane boutiques. The town is heaving during the monthly Bangalow Market (www.bangalowmarket.com.au; Bangalow Showgrounds; icon-hoursgifh9am-3pm 4th Sun of month), but it's well worth making the 14km trip from Byron at any time.

4Sleeping

Bungalow 3GUESTHOUSE

(icon-phonegif%0401 441 582; messengerproperty.com.au/bungalow3; 3 Campbell St; studio from $130, house from $230; icon-acongifa)

This pretty, weatherboard cottage in central Bangalow has two simply decorated white rooms, and French doors opening on to the deck and edible garden. There is an additional one-bedroom studio. Larger groups can hire out the whole place.

Possum Creek Eco LodgeBUNGALOWS

(icon-phonegif%02-6687 1188; www.possumcreeklodge.com.au; Cedarvale Rd; bungalows from $198-$235; icon-swimgifs)icon-sustainableS

Set within grassy hills about 4km north of Bangalow, this complex has three well-spaced self-contained houses with views across the lush valleys. The ‘eco’ in the name includes water-conservation technologies and solar power.

Summer Hills RetreatCABINS

(icon-phonegif%02-6687 2288; www.summerhills.com; 100 Binna Burra Rd; cabins from $349; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

Amid hilly farmland are these four luxury cabins with well-stocked kitchens and spa baths (outdoors in the cabana suite). It's a wonderfully private place to stay and guests have access to nature trails, a yoga room and a beautiful salt-water pool

5Eating & Drinking

Sparrow CoffeeCAFE

(icon-phonegif%02-6687 2726; 8/36 Bangalow Rd; mains $12; icon-hoursgifh6am-3pm Mon-Sat)

The folk from the acclaimed Harvest restaurant and bakery in nearby Newrybar have opened this tiny joint which delivers excellent Allpress coffee, indulgent sweet treats and ready-made lunchboxes.

UtopiaCAFE

(icon-phonegif%02-6687 2088; www.utopiacafe.com.au; 13 Byron St; mains $14-26; icon-hoursgifh8.30am-4pm; icon-wifigifW)

Open, airy and hung with interesting art, this long cafe has a good selection of magazines to divert you while you wait for your morning coffee and cooked brekkie. The sweets are to die for.

The Italian DinerITALIAN

(www.theitaliandiner.com.au; 37-39 Byron St; mains $30; icon-hoursgifh7.30am-2.30pm & 5.30-9pm Mon-Fri, 8am-3pm & 5.30-9pm Sat & Sun)

Sitting on the veranda of this buzzy bistro with a Campari and a bowl of spaghetti ai gamberi made with sweet local prawns, it's hard not to imagine that you're enjoying a long lunch somewhere in Italy. There's fabulous wood-fired pizzas and luscious desserts.

Town Restaurant & CafeMODERN AUSTRALIAN

(icon-phonegif%02-6687 2555; townbangalow.com.au; 33 Byron St; cafe mains $15-22, restaurant degustation $85; icon-hoursgifhDowntown 8am-3pm Mon-Sat, 9am-3pm Sun, Uptown 7-9.30pm Thu-Sat)

Upstairs (Uptown, if you will) is one of northern NSW's best restaurants, serving a six-course set menu artfully constructed from seasonal local produce. Head Downtown for perfect breakfasts, light lunches and a counter heavy with sweet creations.

Bangalow HotelPUB

(www.bangalowhotel.com.au; 1 Byron St; icon-hoursgifh10am-midnight Mon-Sat, noon-10pm Sun)

Sit on the deck of this much-loved pub, listen to live music, and order gourmet burgers or reserve a table at the classy but cool Bangalow Dining Rooms (icon-phonegif%02-6687 1144; www.bangalowdining.com; The Bangalow Hotel , 1 Byron St ; mains $32; icon-hoursgifhnoon-3pm & 5.30-9pm).

8Getting There & Away

Byron Easy Bus operates shuttles to/from Ballina Byron Gateway Airport.

Blanch'sBUS

(icon-phonegif%02-6686 2144; www.blanchs.com.au)

Weekday buses to/from Ballina ($7.60, 30 minutes) and Byron Bay ($6.40, 20 minutes).

Northern Rivers BuslinesBUS

(icon-phonegif%02-6626 1499; www.nrbuslines.com.au; icon-wifigifW)

Weekday buses to/from Lismore (1¼ hours), Byron Bay (30 minutes), Brunswick Heads (30 minutes) and Mullumbimby (40 minutes); all $9.70.

NSW TrainLinkBUS

(icon-phonegif%13 22 32; www.nswtrainlink.info)

Daily coaches to/from Murwillumbah ($9.70, 1¼ hours), Tweed Heads ($11.30, two hours), Burleigh Heads ($13.70, 1½ hours) and Surfers Paradise ($15.30, two hours).

Lonely Planet Australia
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