Around Perth
Around Perth Highlights
Rottnest Island (Wadjemup)
The Avon Valley
York
Toodyay
Rockingham & the Peel District
Rockingham
Mandurah
Dwellingup
Dryandra to Hyden
Hyden & Wave Rock
Sunset & Turquoise Coasts
Yanchep National Park
Guilderton
Lancelin
Cervantes & Pinnacles Desert
Jurien Bay, Green Head & Leeman
New Norcia
Around Perth
Why Go?
Although Western Australia (WA) is huge, you don't have to travel too far from Perth to treat yourself to a tantalising taste of what the state has to offer. A day trip could see you frolicking with wild dolphins, snorkelling with sea lions, scooping up brilliant-blue crabs or spotting bilbies in the bush. Active types can find themselves canoeing, rafting, surfing, windsurfing, sandboarding, diving, skydiving and mountain biking.
Get up early to experience the Pinnacles in Nambung National Park at dawn, and return at dusk for a spectacular end to the day. Explore historic towns classified by the National Trust, or experience the monastic ambience of fascinating New Norcia.
We've designed this chapter so that the main headings can be tackled as day trips, or better still, overnighters. If you're embarking on a longer trip, whether north, south or east, you'll find your first stop within these pages.
When to Go
AMar Good beach weather and a fine time to spot thrombolites in Lake Clifton.
AJun Food and wine excellence at the Avon Valley Gourmet Food & Wine Festival in Northam.
AAug Wildflowers start to bloom, and brave/crazy paddlers take part in Northam's exciting Avon River Festival.
Best Places to Eat
Best Places to Stay
A Cervantes Lodge & Pinnacles Beach Backpackers
Around Perth Highlights
1 Cycling your way to a private slice of coastal paradise on Rottnest Island (Wadjemup), then spending the afternoon swimming, sunning and snorkelling.
2 Enjoying a sublime sunset over the other-worldly Pinnacles Desert.
3 Getting chipper with Flipper while palling about with scores of wild dolphins in Shoalwater Islands Marine Park, off Rockingham.
4 Splashing about with sea lions at Green Head.
5 Exploring the intriguing monastery town of New Norcia.
6 Learning the fine arts of windsurfing, kiteboarding and sandboarding in sleepy seaside Lancelin.
7 Immersing yourself in the wonderful wildflowers of the Lesueur National Park.
Rottnest Island (Wadjemup)
Pop 475
'Rotto' has long been the family holiday playground of choice for Perth locals. Although it's only about 19km offshore from Fremantle, this car-free, off-the-grid slice of paradise, ringed by secluded beaches and bays, feels a million miles from the metropolis.
Cycling round the 11km-long, 4.5km-wide island is a real pleasure; just ride around and pick your own bit of beach to spend the day on. You're bound to spot quokkas on your journey. These are the island's only native land mammals, but you might also spot New Zealand fur seals splashing around off magical West End, dolphins, and, in season, whales. King skinks are common, sunning themselves on the roads.
If you fancy further diversions, snorkelling, fishing, surfing and diving are all excellent on the island. In fact, there's not a lot to do here that's not outdoors, so you're better off postponing your day trip if the weather's bad. It can be unpleasant when the wind really kicks up.
Rotto is also the site of annual school leavers' and end-of-uni-exams parties; at this time the island is overrun by kids 'getting blotto on Rotto'. Depending on your age, it's either going to be the best time you've ever had or the worst – check the calendar before proceeding.
History
Wadjuk (a subgroup of the Noongar people) oral history recalls the island being joined to the mainland before being cut off by rising waters. The fact that modern scientists date that occurrence to before 6500 years ago makes these memories some of the world's oldest. Archaeological finds suggest that the island was inhabited from 30,000 years ago, but not after it was separated from the mainland.
Dutch explorer Willem de Vlamingh claimed discovery of the island in 1696 and named it Rotte-nest (rat's nest) because of the numerous king-sized 'rats' (which were actually quokkas) he saw there.
From 1838 it was used as a prison for Aboriginal men and boys from all around the state. At least 3670 people were incarcerated here, in harsh conditions, with around 370 dying (at least five were hanged). Even before the prison was built, Wadjemup was considered a 'place of the spirits', and it's been rendered even more sacred to Indigenous people because of the hundreds of their people who died there. Many avoid it to this day.
Rottnest Island
2Activities, Courses & Tours
1Sights
QuodHISTORIC SITE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Kitson St)
Built in 1864, this octagonal building with a central courtyard was once the Aboriginal prison block but is now part of the Rottnest Lodge hotel. During its time as a prison, several men would sleep in each 3m by 1.7m cell, with no sanitation (most deaths were due to disease). The only part of the complex that can be visited is a small whitewashed chapel. A weekly Sunday service is held at 9.30am.
Rottnest MuseumMUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; Kitson
St; admission by gold-coin donation; 
h11am-3.30pm)
Housed in the old hay-store building, this little museum tells the island's natural and human history, warts and all, including dark tales of shipwrecks and incarceration.
Salt StoreHISTORIC BUILDING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; Colebatch
Ave)
F
A photographic exhibition in this 19th-century building looks at a different chapter of local history: when the island's salt lakes provided all of WA's salt (between 1838 and 1950). It's also the meeting point for walking tours.
2Activities
Excellent visibility in the temperate waters, coral reefs and shipwrecks make Rottnest a top spot for scuba diving and snorkelling. There are snorkel trails with underwater plaques at Little Salmon Bay and Parker Point.
Over a dozen boats have come a cropper on Rottnest's reefs. Marker plaques around the island tell the sad tales of how and when the ships sank. The only wreck that is accessible to snorkellers without a boat is at Thomson Bay.
The best surfing breaks are at Strickland, Salmon and Stark Bays, at the west end of the island.
Rottnest Island Bike HireBICYCLE RENTAL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; 
%08-9292
5105; www.rottnestisland.com;
cnr Bedford Ave & Welch
Way; h8.30am-4pm,
to 5.30pm summer)
Rents masks, snorkels and fins and surfboards.
QUOKKAS
Once found throughout the southwest, quokkas are now confined to forest on the mainland and a population of 8000 to 10,000 on Rottnest Island. These cute, docile little marsupials have suffered a number of indignities over the years. First, Dutch explorer Willem de Vlamingh's crew mistook them for rats. Then the British settlers misheard and mangled their name (the Noongar word was probably quak-a or gwaga). But worst of all, a cruel trend for 'quokka soccer' by sadistic louts in the 1990s saw many kicked to death before a $10,000 fine was imposed. On a more positive note, the phenomenon of 'quokka selfies' briefly illuminated the internet in 2015 with various Rottnest marsupials achieving minor global fame on Instagram. Google 'Rottnest quokka selfies' to see the best of #quokkaselfie.
TTours
Rottnest Voluntary GuidesWALKING TOUR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9372
9757; www.rvga.asn.au)F
Free, themed walks leave from the central Salt Store daily: History; Reefs, Wrecks & Daring Sailors; Vlamingh Lookout & Salt Lakes; and the Quokka Walk. They also run tours of Wadjemup Lighthouse (adult/child $9/4) and Oliver Hill Gun & Tunnels (adult/child $9/4); you'll need to make your own way there for the last two.
Oliver Hill Train & TourTRAIN RIDES
(www.rottnestisland.com; adult/child $29/16.50)
The Oliver Hill gun battery was built in the 1930s and played a major role in the defence of the WA coastline and Fremantle harbour. This trip takes you by train to Oliver Hill (departing from the train station at 1.30pm) and includes the Gun & Tunnels tour run by Rottnest Voluntary Guides.
Rottnest Adventure TourCRUISE
(www.rottnestexpress.com.au;
adult/child $55/27; hmid Sep-late
Apr)
Ninety-minute cruises around the coast with a special emphasis on spotting wildlife. Packages are also available ex Perth (adult/child $152/78 and Fremantle ($132/68). Check the website for other options including the Discover Rottnest coach tour and the Eco-Express snorkelling tour. From mid-September to late November two-hour whalewatching tours (adult/child ex Perth $77/34) are on offer.
Rottnest Air TaxiSCENIC FLIGHTS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %0411 264 547,
1800 500 006;
www.rottnest.de)
Ten-minute flights over the island ($45).
4Sleeping & Eating
Rotto is wildly popular in summer and school holidays, when accommodation is booked out months in advance.
Most visitors to Rotto self-cater. The general store is like a small supermarket (and also stocks liquor), but if you're staying a while, it's better to bring supplies with you. You can also preorder supplies from www.rottnestgeneralstore.com.au.
Allison TentlandCAMPGROUND
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9432
9111; www.rottnestisland.com;
Thomson Bay; sites
$36)
Camping on the island is restricted to this leafy camping ground with barbecues. Be vigilant about your belongings, especially your food – cheeky quokkas have been known to help themselves.
Kingstown Barracks Youth HostelHOSTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9432
9111; www.rottnestisland.com;
dm/f $51/111)
This hostel is located in old army barracks that still have a rather institutional feel, and few facilities. Check in at the visitor centre before you make the 1.8km walk, bike or bus trip to Kingstown.
Rottnest Island Authority CottagesCOTTAGES
(%08-9432
9111; www.rottnestisland.com;
cottages $114-256)
There are more than 250 villas and cottages for rent around the island. Some have magnificent beachfront positions and are palatial; others are more like beach shacks. Prices rise by around $60 for Friday and Saturday nights, and they shoot up by up to $120 in peak season (late September to April). Check online for the labyrinthine pricing schedule.
Rottnest LodgeHOTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9292
5161; www.rottnestlodge.com.au;
Kitson St; r
$210-320; 
s)
It's claimed there are ghosts in this comfortable complex, which is based around the former Quod and boys' reformatory school. If that worries you, ask for a room in the new section, looking onto a salt lake. The lodge's Riva restaurant channels Italian flavours amid the island's vaguely Mediterranean ambience, especially when the sun is shining.
Hotel RottnestHOTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9292
5011; www.hotelrottnest.com.au;
1 Bedford Ave; r
$270-320; 
a)
Based around the former summer-holiday pad for the state's governors (built in 1864) the former Quokka Arms has been completely transformed by a stylish renovation. The whiter-than-white rooms in an adjoining building are smart and modern, if a tad pricey. Some have beautiful sea views.
RivaSEAFOOD
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
Kitson St, Rottnest
Lodge; lunch $18-20, dinner $24-38; hnoon-late)
Classy Italian restaurant with a strong focus on grills and seafood. Prawns and salmon both receive an elegant touch of the Med, and there are also wood-fired pizzas and interesting spins on chicken and lamb.
Hotel RottnestPUB FOOD
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; www.hotelrottnest.com.au;
1 Bedford Ave; mains
$25-38, pizza $20-26;
h11am-late)
It's hard to imagine a more inviting place for a sunset pint of Little Creatures than the Astroturf 'lawn' of this chic waterfront hotel. A big glass pavilion creates an open and inviting space, and bistro-style food and pizzas are reasonably priced given the location and ambience. Bands and DJs regularly boost the laid-back island mood during summer.
8Information
Near the main jetty there's a shopping area with an ATM.
Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9372
9732; www.rottnestisland.com;
Thomson Bay; h7.30am-5pm
Sat-Thu, 7.30am-7pm Fri, extended hours in
summer)
Handles check-ins for all of the island
authority's accommodation. There's a bookings counter at the
Fremantle office (
GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9432
9300; www.rottnestisland.com;
E Shed, Victoria
Quay), near where the
ferry departs.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Rottnest Air-TaxiAIRLINE
(%0411 264
547; www.rottnest.de)
Flies from Jandakot airport in four-seater (one way/same-day return/extended return $260/360/460) or six-seater planes (one way/same-day extended return $380/480/580). Prices include up to three passengers in the four-seater and five passengers in the six-seater.
Boat
Rottnest ExpressFERRY
(%1300 467
688; www.rottnestexpress.com.au)
Fremantle (B Shed, Victoria Quay; adult/child $83.50/47) Northport ( GOOGLE MAP ; 1 Emma Pl, Northport, Rous Head; adult/child $83.50/47) Perth ( GOOGLE MAP ; Pier 2, Barrack St Jetty; adult/child $103.50/57) Prices listed are for return day trips and include the island admission fee. Ferry schedules are seasonal, though those listed here are roughly the minimum: Perth (1¾ hours, once daily), Fremantle (30 minutes, five times daily) and North Fremantle (30 minutes, three times daily). Packages including bike hire, snorkelling equipment, meals, accommodation and tours are all available.
Rottnest Fast FerriesFERRY
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9246
1039; www.rottnestfastferries.com.au;
adult/child
$85/48.50)
Departs from Hillarys Boat Harbour (40 minutes; three times daily). Packages also available. Hillarys Boat Harbour is around 40 minutes' drive north of Perth. See www.hillarysboatharbour.com.au for public transport details. An additional 6pm ferry departs on Friday nights over summer.
8Getting Around
Bikes can be booked in advance online or
on arrival from Rottnest Island Bike Hire
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9292
5105; www.rottnestisland.com;
cnr Bedford Ave & Welch
Way; per hour $13, 1/2/3/4/5 days
$32/45/56/67/79;
h8.30am-4pm,
to 5.30pm summer).
Rottnest Express and the visitor centre also hire bikes.
A free shuttle runs between Thomson Bay
and the main accommodation areas. The Island
Explorer (www.rottnestisland.com;
adult/child $20/12; hdeparts every
1¼hr 8.45am-3pm) is a
handy hop-on, hop-off coach service stopping at 18 locations around
the island. It includes a commentary and is a great way to get your
bearings when you first arrive.
The Avon Valley
The lush green Avon Valley was 'discovered' by European settlers in early 1830 after food shortages forced Governor Stirling to dispatch Ensign Dale to search the Darling Range for arable land. What he found was the upper reaches of the Swan River, but he presumed it was a separate river – which is why its name changes from the Swan to the Avon in Walyunga National Park. Many historic stone buildings still stand proudly in the area's towns and countryside.
Highlights are sleepy York and Toodyay, and
excellent annual festivals around Northam include
the Avon Valley Gourmet Food & Wine
Festival (www.avonvalleywa.com.au;
hearly
Jun) and the exciting
Avon River Festival (www.avondescent.com.au;
hearly
Aug).
York
Only 97km from Perth, York is the oldest inland town in WA, and was first settled in 1830, just two years after the Swan River colony. The settlers here saw similarities between the Avon Valley and their native Yorkshire, so Governor Stirling bestowed the name York. The entire town has been classified by the National Trust.
1Sights
Avon Tce is lined with significant buildings including the town hall, Castle Hotel, police station, Old Gaol & Courthouse and Settlers House. The suspension bridge across the Avon was built in 1906.
Holy Trinity ChurchCHURCH
(Pool St)
By the Avon River, this church was completed in 1854 and features stained-glass windows designed by WA artist Robert Juniper, as well as a rare pipe organ.
Motor MuseumMUSEUM
(www.yorkwa.com.au/Motor.Museum;
116 Avon Tce; adult/child
$9/4; h9.30am-3pm)
A must for vintage-car enthusiasts.
Residency MuseumMUSEUM
(www.yorksoc.org.au;
Brook St; adult/child
$4/2; h1-3pm Tue,
Wed & Thu, 11am-3.30pm Sat & Sun)
Built in 1858, this museum houses some intriguing historic exhibits and poignant old black-and-white photos of York.
5Eating
Jules CafeCAFE
(121 Avon
Tce; snacks & mains $10-18; h8am-4pm
Mon-Sat; 
v)
S
Putting a colourful spin on heritage York since 1990, Jules Cafe channels a Lebanese vibe for top-notch kebabs, falafel and Middle Eastern sweets. A funky new-age accent is introduced with organic, vegie and gluten-free options.
8Getting There & Away
Transwa
(%1300 662
205; www.transwa.wa.gov.au)
coach routes linking to York include East Perth ($17, 1½ hours), Mt
Barker ($56, 5¼ hours, four weekly) and Albany ($61, six hours,
four weekly).
Toodyay
Historic Toodyay, only 85km northeast of Perth, is a popular weekend destination for browsing the bric-a-brac shops or having a beer on the verandah of an old pub. Also classified by the National Trust, it has plenty of charming heritage buildings. Originally known by the name Newcastle, Toodyay (pronounced '2J') came from the Aboriginal word duidgee (place of plenty); the name was adopted around 1910.
1Sights
Connor's MillMUSEUM
(Stirling
Tce; admission $3; h9am-4pm)
Start at the top of this aged flour mill (1870) and descend through three floors of chugging machinery and explanatory displays that cover the milling process, along with local history. Entry is through the neighbouring visitor centre. St Stephen's Church (1862), directly across the road, is also worth a look.
Newcastle GaolMUSEUM
(17 Clinton
St; admission $3; h10am-4pm)
Built in the 1860s using convict labour, the gaol includes a courtroom, cells and stables. A gallery tells the story of bushranger Moondyne Joe.
CoorinjaWINERY
(Toodyay
Rd; h10am-5pm
Mon-Sat)
Operating continuously since the 1870s, this winery specialises in fortified wines including port, sherry, muscat and Marsala. It's 6km out of town, on the road to Perth.
8Getting There & Away
Toodyay is a stop on the Transwa (%1300 662
205; www.transwa.wa.gov.au)
AvonLink and Prospector lines, with trains to East Perth ($17, 1¼
hours, seven weekly), Northam ($8, 20 minutes, 12 weekly) and
Kalgoorlie ($78, 5½ hours, four weekly).
Rockingham & the Peel District
Taking in swaths of jarrah forest and coastal resorts, this area can easily be tackled as a day trip from Perth or as the first stopping point of a southwest expedition. Entering the Peel District, you're passing out of Wadjuk country and into that of their fellow Noongar neighbours, the Pinjarup.
Rockingham
Pop 100,000
Around 46km south of Perth, this seaside city
has some nice beaches, and the Shoalwater Islands Marine Park (www.marineparks.wa.gov.au;
hclosed for
nesting Jun–mid-Sep)
where you can observe dolphins, sea lions and penguins in the
wild.
Just a few minutes' paddle, swim or
ferry ride (Mersey Point
Jetty; per person $12; hhourly
9am-3pm Sep-May) from
the mainland is Penguin Island, home to about 600
breeding pairs of penguins and several thousand ground-nesting
silver gulls. Apart from birdwatching, you can swim and snorkel in
the crystal-clear waters, and there are sunny opportunities for
dining along Rockingham's esplanade.
2Activities
Rockingham Wild EncountersWILDLIFE TOURS
(%08-9591
1333; www.rockinghamwildencounters.com.au;
cnr Arcadia Dr & Penguin
Rd)S
The only operator licensed to take people to
Penguin Island near Rockingham, and also run other low-impact
tours. Most popular is the dolphin swim
tour (departs Val St Jetty; per person
$205-225; h8am
Sep-May), which lets you
interact with some of the 200 wild bottlenose dolphins in the
marine park. If you don't fancy getting wet, there are two-hour
dolphin-watch tours (departs
Mersey St Jetty, Shoalwater; adult/child
$85/50; h10.45am
Sep-May). There's also a
45-minute penguin and sea lion cruise, in a glass-bottomed boat.
Pickups can also be arranged from Perth hotels.
West Coast Dive ParkDIVING
(www.westcoastdivepark.com.au; permits per day/week $25/50)
Diving within the marine park became even more interesting after the sinking of the Saxon Ranger, a supposedly jinxed 400-tonne fishing vessel. Permits to dive at this site are available from the visitor centre. Contact the Australasian Diving Academy about expeditions to this and the wrecks of three other boats, two planes and various reefs in the vicinity.
8Information
Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(%08-9592
3464; www.rockinghamvisitorcentre.com.au;
19 Kent St; h9am-5pm)
Accommodation listings if you want to overnight.
8Getting There & Around
Rockingham has regular Transperth (%13 62
13; www.transperth.wa.gov.au)
trains via the Mandurah line to Perth Underground/Esplanade ($7.70,
34 minutes) and Mandurah ($5.20, 18 minutes).
Rockingham station is around 4km southeast of Rockingham Beach and around 6km east of Mersey Point, where the Penguin Island ferries depart; catch bus 551 or 555 to the beach, or stay on the 551 to Mersey Point.
Mandurah
Pop 68,300
Shrugging off its fusty retirement-haven image, Mandurah has made concerted efforts to reinvent itself as an upmarket beach resort.
The town spans the Mandurah Estuary, which sits between the ocean and the large body of water known as the Peel Inlet. It's one of the best places in the region for fishing, crabbing, prawning (March to April) and dolphin-spotting.
2Activities
Mandurah CruisesCRUISE
(%08-9581
1242; www.mandurahcruises.com.au;
Boardwalk)
Take a one-hour Dolphin & Scenic Canal Cruise, a half-day Murray River Lunch Cruise and, through December, a one-hour Christmas Lights Canal Cruise, which gawps at millionaires' mansions under the pretence of admiring their festive displays. Other cruise options incorporate catching and cooking Mandurah's famous blue manna crabs, and a heritage cruise highlighting the region's history.
Mandurah Boat & Bike HireBOATING, CYCLING
(%08-9535
5877; www.mandurahboatandbikehire.com.au;
Boardwalk)
Chase the fish on a four-seat dinghy or six-seat pontoon (per hour/day from $50/320).
5Eating
Taste & GrazeCAFE
(www.tasteandgraze.com.au;
Shop 3/4 16 Mandurah
Tce; shared plates & mains
$14-32; h8am-4pm
Sun-Wed, 5pm-late Thu-Sat)
Back in town in 'old' Mandurah, and perfectly located to catch the afternoon sun. Outdoor seating and a versatile Modern Australian menu covering breakfast, lunch and shared smaller plates make it a cosmopolitan slice of cafe cool.
8Information
Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(%08-9550
3999; www.visitmandurah.com;
75 Mandurah Tce; h9am-5pm)
On the estuary boardwalk.
8Getting There & Away
Transwa
(%1300 662
205; www.transwa.wa.gov.au)
and South West Coach Lines (%08-9261
7600; www.transdevsw.com.au)
buses stop here. There are direct trains to Perth
Underground/Esplanade ($10.20, 50 minutes) and Rockingham ($7.70,
18 minutes).
WORTH A TRIP
YALGORUP NATIONAL PARK
Fifty kilometres south of Mandurah is this beautiful 12,000-hectare coastal park, consisting of 10 tranquil lakes and surrounding woodlands and sand dunes. The park is a wetland of international significance for seasonally migrating water birds. Visit the distinctive thrombolites of Lake Clifton, descendants of the earliest living organisms on earth. These rocklike structures are most easily seen when the water is low, particularly in March and April. There's a viewing platform on Mt John Rd, off Old Coast Rd.
Dwellingup
Pop 550
Dwellingup is a small, forest-shrouded township with character, 100km south of Perth. Its reputation as an activity hub has only been enhanced by the hardy long-distance walkers and cyclists passing through on the Bibbulmun Track and the Munda Biddi Trail, respectively.
1Sights & Activities
Forest Heritage CentreNATURE RESERVE
(www.forestheritagecentre.com.au;
1 Acacia St; adult/child
$5.50/2.20; h10am-3pm)
Set within the jarrah forest, this interesting rammed-earth building takes the shape of three interlinked gum leaves. Inside are displays about the forest's flora and fauna, and a shop that sells beautiful pieces crafted by the resident woodwork artists. Short marked trails lead into the forest, including an 11m-high canopy walk.
Hotham Valley RailwayHISTORIC TRAIN
(%08-6278
1111; www.hothamvalleyrailway.com.au;
Forest Train adult/child $24/12,
Restaurant Train $79, Steam Ranger adult/child
$34/17; hForest Train
departs 10.30am & 2pm Sat & Sun, Restaurant Train departs
7.45pm Sat, Steam Ranger departs 10.30am & 2pm Sun
May-Oct)
On weekends (and Tuesday and Thursday during school holidays), the Dwellingup Forest Train chugs along 8km of forest track on a 90-minute return trip. Every Saturday night and some Fridays, the Restaurant Train follows the same route, serving up a five-course meal in a 1919 dining car. A third option is the Steam Ranger, travelling 14km via Western Australia's steepest rail incline to Isandra Siding. Steam Ranger trains only run on Sunday from May to October.
Dwellingup AdventuresADVENTURE SPORTS
(%08-9538
1127; www.dwellingupadventures.com.au;
cnr Marrinup & Newton
St; 1-person kayaks & 2-person canoes per three
hours $30; h8.30am-5pm)
Don't miss the opportunity to get out on the beautiful Murray River. Hire camping gear, bikes, kayaks and canoes, or take an assisted, self-guided paddling (full day, per one-person kayak $107) or cycling tour (full day, per one/two/three people $107/140/198). White-water rafting tours are available from June to October (per person $150).
8Information
Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(%08-9538
1108; www.murraytourism.com.au;
Marrinup St; h9am-3pm)
Interesting displays about the 1961 bushfires that wiped out the town, destroying 75 houses but taking no lives.
Dryandra to Hyden
A beautiful forest, rare marsupials, stunning, ancient granite-rock formations, salt lakes, interesting back roads and the unique Wave Rock are the scattered highlights of this widespread farming region.
Hyden & Wave Rock
Large granite outcrops dot the central and southern wheat belts, and the most famous is the multicoloured cresting swell of Wave Rock, 350km from Perth. Formed some 60 million years ago by weathering and water erosion, Wave Rock is streaked with colours created by run-off from local mineral springs.
To get the most out of Wave Rock, obtain the
Walk Trails at Wave Rock and the Humps brochure from the
visitor centre (%08-9880
5182; www.waverock.com.au;
Wave Rock; h9am-5pm). Park at Hippos Yawn (no fee) and follow
the shady track back along the rock base to Wave Rock (1km).
Accommodation can fill quickly, so phone ahead
for a spot amid the gum trees at Wave Rock
Cabins & Caravan Park (%08-9880
5022; www.waverock.com.au;
unpowered/powered sites from $28/35,
cabins from $140, cottages from $160; as).
In Hyden (population 190), 4km east of the
rock, the '70s brick Wave Rock Motel
(%08-9880
5052; www.waverock.com.au;
2 Lynch St, Hyden; s/d from
$105/150; as) has
an indoor bush bistro.
Transwa runs a bus from Perth to Hyden ($51, five hours) and on to Esperance ($53, five hours) every Tuesday, returning on Thursday. See the WA Visitor Centre for tours visiting Wave Rock. Note it is a long day trip.
If heading to/from the Nullarbor, take the unsealed direct Hyden–Norseman Road, which will save 100km or so. Look for the brochure The Granite and Woodlands Discovery Trail at the Norseman or Wave Rock visitor centres.
WORTH A TRIP
DRYANDRA WOODLAND
With small populations of threatened numbats, woylies and tammar wallabies, this isolated remnant of eucalypt forest 164km southeast of Perth hints at what the wheat belt was like before large-scale land clearing and feral predators wreaked havoc on local ecosystems. With numerous walking trails, it makes a great getaway from Perth.
The excellent Barna Mia Animal
Sanctuary, home to endangered bilbies, boodies, woylies
and marla, conducts 90-minute after-dark torchlight tours,
providing a rare opportunity to see these creatures up close. Book
through Parks & Wildlife (%08-9881
9222; www.parks.dpaw.wa.gov.au;
7 Wald St, Narrogin; adult/child/family
$14/7.50/37.50;
h8.30am-4pm) for postsunset tours on Monday,
Wednesday, Friday and Saturday, and book early for peak
periods.
While you can hoist your tent at the
Congelin Camp Ground (%08-9881
9200; adult/child $7.50/2.20), Dryandra is one place you should
splurge. The Lions Dryandra Village
(%08-9884
5231; www.dryandravillage.org.au;
adult/child $30/15, 2-/4-person cabins
$70/90, 8-12 person cabins $130) is a 1920s forestry camp offering
self-contained, renovated woodcutters' cabins complete with fridge,
stove, fireplace, en suite and nearby grazing wallabies. Narrogin,
serviced by Transwa buses, is 22km southeast.
Sunset & Turquoise Coasts
The Indian Ocean Drive connects Perth to a succession of beautiful beaches, sleepy fishing villages, extraordinary geological formations, rugged national parks and incredibly diverse flora.
8Getting There & Away
Integrity
(%1800 226
339; www.integritycoachlines.com.au)
runs three times a week along the coast between Perth and Geraldton
and on to Exmouth and Broome.
Transwa
(%1300 662
205; www.transwa.wa.gov.au)
has 2pm Friday and Sunday departures heading to Cervantes and Green
Head. The Friday bus continues to Geraldton.
Yanchep National Park
The woodlands and wetlands of Yanchep National Park (www.parks.dpaw.wa.gov.au;
Wanneroo Rd; per car
$12; hvisitor
centre 9.15am-4.30pm)
are home to fauna and flora including koalas, kangaroos, emus and
cockatoos. Caves can be viewed on 45-minute tours (adult/child
$10/5; five per day). On weekends at 2pm and 3pm, local Noongar
guides run excellent tours on Indigenous history,
lifestyle and culture (adult/child $10/5), and give didgeridoo and
dance performances (adult/child $10/5).
Guilderton
Pop 150
Some 43km north of Yanchep, Guilderton is a
popular family holiday spot. Children paddle safely near the mouth
of the Moore River, while adults enjoy the excellent fishing,
surfing and sunbathing on the white sands of the ocean beach. The
Guilderton Caravan Park (%08-9577
1021; www.guildertoncaravanpark.com.au;
2 Dewar St; unpowered/powered sites $30/45, chalets
$165) is the
holidaymakers' hub, with self-contained chalets, a cafe and a
general store, and there's a volunteer-run visitor centre (erratic
hours).
Lancelin
Pop 670
Afternoon winds and shallows protected by an outlying reef make this sleepy beach perfect for windsurfing and kitesurfing, attracting action seekers from around the world for the Lancelin Ocean Classic (www.lancelinoceanclassic.com.au) every January. It's also a great snorkelling spot.
2Activities
Makanikai KiteboardingKITEBOARDING
(%0406 807
309; www.makanikaikiteboarding.com;
lessons from $200)
Lessons and tuition in the fine art of kiteboarding, and gear rental; accommodation packages are also available.
4Sleeping & Eating
oLancelin Lodge
YHAHOSTEL
(%08-9655
2020; www.lancelinlodge.com.au;
10 Hopkins St; dm/d/f
$30/85/105; 
i
Ws)
This laid-back hostel is well equipped and welcoming, with wide verandahs and lots of communal spaces to hang about in. The excellent facilities include big kitchen, barbecue, wood-fire pizza oven, swimming pool, ping-pong table, volleyball court and free use of bikes and boogie boards.
Endeavour TavernPUB FOOD
(58 Gingin Rd; mains $18-38)
A classic beachfront Aussie pub with a beer garden overlooking the ocean. The casual eatery serves decent seafood, pub-grub classics and tasty wood-fired pizzas.
Cervantes & Pinnacles Desert
Pop 480
The laid-back crayfishing town of Cervantes, 198km north of Perth, makes a pleasant base for exploring the Pinnacles Desert and the Kwongan, the wildflower-rich inland heathland of Lesueur and Badgingarra National Parks. There are also some lovely beaches to while away the time.
1Sights & Activities
oNambung National
ParkNATIONAL PARK
( GOOGLE MAP ; per car $12)
Situated 19km from Cervantes, Nambung is home to the spectacular Pinnacles Desert, a vast, alienlike plain studded with thousands of limestone pillars. Rising eerily from the desert floor, the pillars are remnants of compacted seashells that once covered the plain and, over millenniums, subsequently eroded. A loop road runs through the formations, but it's more fun to wander on foot, especially at sunset, full moon or dawn, when the light is sublime and the crowds evaporate.
Lesueur National ParkNATIONAL PARK
(per car $12)
This botanical paradise, 50km north of Cervantes, contains a staggering 820 plant species, many of them rare and endemic, such as the pine banksia (Banksia tricupsis) and Mt Lesueur grevillea (Grevillea batrachioides). Late winter sees the heath erupt into a mass of colour, and the park is also home to the endangered Carnaby's cockatoo. An 18km circuit drive is dotted with lookouts and picnic areas. Flat-topped Mt Lesueur (4km return walk) has panoramic coastal views.
WORTH A TRIP
KWONGAN WILDFLOWERS
Take any road inland from the Turquoise Coast and you'll soon enter the Kwongan heathlands, where, depending on the season, the roadside verges burst with native wildflowers. Consider the following options.
Badgingarra National Park Three and a half kilometres of walking trails, kangaroo paw, banksia, grass tree, feather flower and a rare mallee (eucalyptus). The back road linking Badgingarra to Lesueur is particularly rich in flora. Obtain details from the Badgingarra Roadhouse.
Alexander Morrison National Park Named after Western Australia's first botanist. There are no trails, but you can drive through slowly on the Coorow Green Head Rd, which has loads of flora along its verge all the way from Lesueur. Expect to see dryandra, banksia, grevillea, smokebush, leschenaultia and honey myrtle.
Tathra National Park Tathra has similar flora to Alexander Morrison National Park and the drive between the two is rich with banksia, kangaroo paw and grevillea.
Coomallo Rest Area Orchids, feather flowers, black kangaroo paws, wandoo and river red gums can be found upstream and on the slopes of the small hill.
Brand Highway (Route 1) The route's not exactly conducive to slow meandering, but the highway verges are surprisingly rich in wildflowers, especially either side of Eneabba.
If you're overwhelmed and frustrated by not
being able to identify all these strange new plants, consider
staying at Western Flora Caravan Park
(%08-9955
2030; wfloracp@activ8.net.au;
Brand Hwy, North
Eneabba; unpowered/powered sites $24/26, d $65, on-site
vans $75, chalets $120),
where the enthusiastic owners run free two-hour wildflower walks
across their 65-hectare property every day at 4.30pm.
TTours
Many Perth-based companies offer day trips to the Pinnacles.
Turquoise Coast Enviro ToursSIGHTSEEING
(%08-9652
7047; www.thepinnacles.com.au;
59 Seville St,
Cervantes; full-day Kwongan tours $170)
Cervantes local and ex-ranger Mike Newton runs a full-day Kwongan tour, including Lesueur National Park and the coast up to Leeman.
4Sleeping & Eating
Prices surge during school holidays.
oCervantes Lodge
& Pinnacles Beach BackpackersHOSTEL
(%1800 245
232; www.cervanteslodge.com.au;
91 Seville St,
www.pinnaclesholidaypark.com.au; dm $33, d
with/without bathroom $130/90; i)
In a great location behind the dunes, this relaxing hostel has a wide verandah, small and tidy dorms, a nice communal kitchen and a cosy lounge area. Bright, spacious en suite rooms, some with views, are next door in the lodge.
Pinnacles Holiday ParkCARAVAN PARK
(%08-9652
7060; www.pinnaclesholidaypark.com.au;
35 Aragon St,
Cervantes; unpowered & powered sites $25-49, cabins
$90-105; W)
Fantastic location right behind the dunes with plenty of shady, grassy sites and on-site cafe.
oAmble
InnB&B
(%0429 652
401; 2150 Cadda Rd, Hill River; d from
$170; a)
High up on the heathland, about 25km east of Cervantes, this hidden gem of a B&B has beautiful thick stone walls, cool, wide verandahs and superbly styled rooms. Watch the sunset over the coast from the nearby hill with a glass of your complimentary wine.
Lobster ShackSEAFOOD
(%08-9652
7010; www.lobstershack.com.au;
11 Madrid St,
Cervantes; hshop 9am-5pm,
lunch 11.30am-2.30pm, tours 12.30-2pm)
Craving crayfish? They don't come much fresher than at this lobster factory-turned-lunch spot, where a delicious grilled cray, chips and salad will set you back $40. Lobster rolls are good value at $18. Tours (adult/child $15/7.50) and takeaway frozen seafood are also available.
8Information
Cervantes' combined post office and visitor centre (%08-9652 7700,
freecall 1800 610 660;
www.visitpinnaclescountry.com.au;
Cadiz St; h9am-5.30pm
Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat & Sun) books accommodation and has touring
information.
8Getting There & Away
AIntegrity (www.integritycoachlines.com.au) runs three times a week to Perth ($44, three hours), Dongara ($34, two hours), Geraldton ($42, three hours) and Exmouth ($183, 14 hours). Transwa (www.transwa.wa.gov.au) runs twice weekly to Perth ($34, three hours), Dongara ($22, two hours) and Geraldton ($40, three hours).
Jurien Bay, Green Head & Leeman
Heading north from Cervantes, sprawling
Jurien Bay (population 1500) is home to a large fishing fleet and
pleasant seaside walks. Holiday houses and apartments can be booked
via local real estate agents (%08-9652
2055; www.jurienbayholidays.com;
Shop 1a, 34 Bashford
St), while Jurien Bay Tourist Park (%08-9652
1595; www.jurienbaytouristpark.com.au;
Roberts St; sites $38,
chalets $140-170) has
comfortable chalets right behind the beach.
Next door, the Jetty
Cafe (%08-9652
1999; meals $10-17; h7.30am-5pm) has decent brekkie and lunches, and the
nearby Beach Bistro (2/1 Roberts
St; lunch $15-22, dinner $21-36; hnoon-9pm
Wed-Mon) is good for
dinner. To see the coastline from the air and land on the beach,
contact Skydive Jurien Bay (%1300 293 766,
08-9652 1320;
www.skydivejurienbay.com;
65 Bashford St; 8000/10,000/14,000ft jumps
$300/350/450).
Tiny Green Head (population 280) has several beautiful bays great for swimming, and nearby Leeman (population 400) is popular with windsurfers.
Green Head has Centrebreak Beach Stay (
GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9953
1896; www.centrebreakbeachstay.com.au;
Lot 402, Ocean View Dr, Green
Head; dm/d/f $35/150/190, meals
$15-40; W),
complete with a licensed cafe (meals $15 to $40), and the relaxed
and shady Green Head Caravan Park
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9953
1131; www.greenheadcaravanpark.com.au;
9 Green Head Rd, Green
Head; unpowered/powered sites $20/28, on-site vans from
$75).
Sea Lion Charters
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %0427 931
012; sealioncharters88@gmail.com;
24 Bryant St, Green
Head; morning tours adult/child
$150/75) offers trips
where you can interact in shallow water with playful sea lions.
New Norcia
The monastery settlement of New Norcia, 132km from Perth, consists of ornate, Spanish-style buildings set incongruously in the Australian bush. Founded in 1846 by Spanish Benedictine monks as an Aboriginal mission, the working monastery today holds prayers and retreats, alongside a business producing artisan baked goods. Bakeries licensed to produce New Norcia bread are in the Perth suburbs of Mt Hawthorn and Subiaco.
1Sights & Activities
New Norcia Museum & Art GalleryMUSEUM, GALLERY
(%08-9654
8056; www.newnorcia.wa.edu.au;
Great Northern Hwy; combined
museum & town tours adult/family $25/60; h10am-4.30pm)
New Norcia Museum & Art Gallery traces the history of the monastery and houses impressive art, including contemporary exhibitions and one of the country's largest collections of post-Renaissance religious art. The gift shop sells souvenirs, honey, preserves and bread baked in the monks' wood-fired oven.
Abbey ChurchCHURCH
Inside the abbey church, try to spot the native wildlife in the sgraffito artworks that depict the Stations of the Cross. Look hard, as there's also an astronaut.
Town ToursTOUR
(www.newnorcia.wa.edu.au;
adult/child $15/10; h11am &
1.30pm)
Guided two-hour town tours offer a look at the abbey church and the frescoed college chapels; purchase tickets from the museum.
4Sleeping
New Norcia HotelHOTEL
(%08-9654
8034; www.newnorcia.wa.edu.au;
Great Northern Hwy; s/d
$75/95)
New Norcia Hotel harks back to a more genteel time, with sweeping staircases, high ceilings, understated rooms (with shared bathrooms) and wide verandahs. An international menu (mains $15 to $36) is available at the bar or in the elegant dining room. Our pick is the ploughman's lunch served with New Norcia's own wood-fired sourdough bread.
Sit outside on the terrace and sample the delicious but deadly New Norcia Abbey Ale, a golden Belgian-style ale brewed especially for the abbey. Sunday is a good day to visit, either for a leisurely breakfast, or for popular wood-fired pizzas.
Monastery GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE
(%08-9654
8002; www.newnorcia.wa.edu.au;
full board suggested donation
$80)
The abbey offers lodging in the Monastery Guesthouse within the walls of the southern cloister. Guests can join in prayers with the monks (and males can dine with them).