North & Western Tasmania
Devonport
Penguin
Deloraine
Walls of Jerusalem National Park
Sheffield & Around
King Island
Burnie
Stanley
Marrawah
Corinna
Queenstown
Strahan
Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers National Park
Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park
Southwest National Park
Lake Pedder & Strathgordon
North & Western Tasmania
Why Go?
If you imagined Tasmania as a land of soaring alpine peaks and dreamy, untouched wilderness, then you’ve imagined this part of the state. This is one of Australia's most pristine corners, a land of forested wilderness and remote rivers, from the dense and ancient rainforests of the Tarkine wilderness to remote beaches swept by the cleanest air on Earth. The northern coast consists of dramatic beaches and historic towns such as movie-set Stanley and Penguin, where little penguins come ashore from mid-September to March or April. In the hinterland are some of the best places in Australia to see platypuses, while you can sleep the night in charming towns where the past sits lightly. Best of all, the sense of exploring one of the world's last unspoiled corners will linger long after you leave.
When to Go
AJan-Mar This whole region buzzes and the long days give you more time in the outdoors.
AJun-Aug Experience the power of the Roaring Forties lashing the area.
AOct-Dec The northwest blooms, plus there’s fresh crayfish and penguin watching.
North & Western Tasmania Highlights
1 Exploring Tasmania’s alpine heart as you search for wombats then climb Cradle Mountain.
2 Getting a bird’s-eye view of World Heritage wilderness then landing on the Gordon River.
3 Going beyond the paved road, deep into the Tarkine rainforest at Corinna.
4 Watching the true tale of convict escape in Strahan's hilarious The Ship That Never Was.
5 Travelling through deep rainforest on the West Coast Wilderness Railway.
6 Experiencing wilderness on water on a rafting journey down the Franklin River.
7 Walking a heritage trail then climbing the Nut for fabulous views in Stanley.
8 Searching for platypus in the Mersey River south of Latrobe.
9 Looking out into eternity, or catching a Roaring Forties wave, at Marrawah.
The North
Tasmania's north is a region of populated seaside towns and the vast open reaches and hillside communities of the Great Western Tiers. Much of this area is extensively cultivated – rust-coloured, iron-rich soils and verdant pastures extend north and west of Launceston – but there are also important stands of forest, glacial valleys, dolerite peaks and mighty rivers. Get off the main highway and explore the quiet minor roads and towns.
Devonport
Pop 22,770
Devonport is the Tasmanian base for the Spirit of Tasmania I and II, the red-and-white ferries that connect the island state with the mainland. It's quite an evocative sight when, after three deep blasts of the horn, they cruise past the end of the main street to begin their voyage north. The ferry gone, Devonport slips back into obscurity. Before you leave Devonport, take advantage of its location: walk along the Mersey and up to the Mersey Bluff lighthouse for unmissable views over the coastline and Bass Strait.
1Sights & Activities
Bass Strait Maritime CentreMUSEUM
( GOOGLE MAP ; 6 Gloucester Avenue; Adult $10.00, Child $5.00, Student or Concession $8.00 and Family (five) $25.00; h7 days a week from 10am to 5pm (Christmas Day and Good Friday excluded))
This museum is in the former harbour-master's residence (c 1920) and the pilot station near the foreshore. It has model boats from the ages of sail through to steam and the present seagoing passenger ferries.
oHome HillHISTORIC BUILDING
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6424 8055; www.nationaltrusttas.org.au; 77 Middle Rd; adult/child/concession $10/free/8; hguided tours 2pm Wed-Sun, other times by appointment)
This was the residence of Joseph Lyons (Australia's only Tasmanian prime minister; 1932–39), his wife, Dame Enid Lyons, and their 12 children. Built in 1916, the handsome white home contains some fascinating personal family effects, many of which touch on the couple's active public life.
Don River RailwayMUSEUM
(%03-6424 6335; www.donriverrailway.com.au; Forth Main Rd; adult/child/family $18/13/40; h9am-5pm)
You don’t have to be a trainspotter to love this collection of locomotives and brightly painted rolling stock. The entry price includes a half-hour ride in a diesel train (on the hour from 10am to 4pm), and you can hop on the puffing steam train on Sundays and public holidays.
Devonport Regional GalleryGALLERY
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6424 8296; www.devonportgallery.com; 45-47 Stewart St; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, noon-5pm Sat, 1-5pm Sun)
This excellent gallery houses predominantly 20th-century Tasmanian paintings, and contemporary art by local and mainland artists, plus ceramics and glasswork.
Murray's Day OutBUS TOUR
(%03 64252439; www.murraysdayout.com.au; day trips per person from $150)
To be shown some of Tasmania by an entirely passionate and charming Tasmanian, consider taking one of these tours. Murray offers ‘service with humour’ in his comfortable van (seating up to seven). Go all the way west to Marrawah, drop in on Cradle Mountain, or just tootle around the country lanes near Devonport.
4Sleeping
Mersey Bluff Caravan ParkCARAVAN PARK
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6424 8655; www.merseybluff.com.au; 41 Bluff Rd; unpowered sites per person $13, powered sites per 2 adults $33, on-site caravans d $40-80)
In a seaside setting on Mersey Bluff, this pleasantly green park is just steps from the beach. There’s a campers’ kitchen, BBQ facilities and a playground nearby, and the park's close to the facilities of the new Mersey Bluff development.
Cameo CottageRENTAL HOUSE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6427 0991, 0439 658 503; www.devonportbedandbreakfast.com; 27 Victoria Pde; d $165, extra adult/child $35/25; p)
Tucked away in a quiet backstreet, this two-bedroom cottage was built in 1914 but has been beautifully redecorated. It’s got a well-equipped kitchen, a cosy lounge, a laundry and a quiet garden with BBQ facilities.
Quality Hotel GatewayHOTEL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6424 4922; www.gatewayinn.com.au; 16 Fenton St; d from $136; paiW)
Contemporary rooms, recently renovated, catch the eye here, three short blocks back from the waterfront. It lacks the personal touch of a B&B, but the overall quality is excellent. It has an on-site restaurant as well.
5Eating
oDrift Cafe RestaurantCAFE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6424 4695; www.driftdevonport.com; 41 Bluff Rd; mains $22-28, burgers $8-16; h10am-late Wed-Sun, to 4pm Mon & Tue)
Part of the new surf-club complex out on the Mersey Bluff road, this place segues effortlessly from classy to casual. Tasmanian craft beers, gourmet burgers and a sea breeze – what more could you ask for? There's also a fine menu of everything from Tassie salmon to sweet-potato-and-chickpea curry, plus occasional Greek and Thai inflections. It opens later in summer.
oLanewayCAFE
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.lane-way.com.au; 2/38 Steele St; mains $11-20; h7.30am-4pm )
Filling a former bakery, we reckon Laneway is one of Tassie's best cafes. Hip waitstaff deliver robust brekkies, including smashed avocado with poached eggs and pancetta, and the sunny, heritage space also functions as a deli showcasing local beer, wine and artisan produce. Evening events with special dinner menus are sometimes scheduled, so pop by to see what's on.
oMrs JonesMODERN AUSTRALIAN
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6423 3881; www.mrsjonesrbl.com.au; 41 Bluff Rd; mains $29-40; hnoon-late)
When the owners closed the much-loved Wild Cafe along the coast in Penguin to open Mrs Jones, it was definitely Penguin's loss and Devonport's gain. Upstairs in the swish new surf-club development, Mrs Jones has stunning decor (Tasmanian oak tables and leather sofas, plus an open kitchen) and exceptional food, with a commitment to local produce.
Menus change with the seasons, but the slow-braised lamb shoulder in cinnamon and all-spice, and the aromatic coconut duck curry, both caught our eye when we passed through.
6Drinking
Central at the FormbyBAR
( GOOGLE MAP ; 82 Formby Rd; h2pm-late)
Locals regard this as Devonport’s best bar. It’s decked out with leather sofas and laid-back cool, and the concertina windows open onto the river on warm nights. There are live bands Friday and Saturday, while Sunday afternoon sees acoustic sessions and a more sophisticated crowd.
8Information
Devonport Visitor Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %1800 649 514, 03-6424 4466; www.devonporttasmania.travel; 92 Formby Rd; h7.30am-5pm)
Across the river from the ferry terminal, the info centre opens to meet ferry arrivals. Free baggage storage available.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Boat
Spirit of TasmaniaFERRY
(%1800 634 906; www.spiritoftasmania.com.au; hcustomer contact centre 8am-8.30pm Mon-Sat, 9am-8pm Sun)
Ferries sail between Station Pier in Melbourne and the ferry terminal on the Esplanade in East Devonport.
Bus
Redline CoachesBUS
( GOOGLE MAP ; %1300 360 000; www.tasredline.com.au)
Redline Coaches stop at 9 Edward St and the Spirit of Tasmania terminal in Devonport. There’s a Launceston to Devonport ($25.40, 2½ hours) service, via Deloraine and Latrobe. Other services include Ulverstone ($6.50, 25 minutes), Penguin ($8.50, 40 minutes) and Burnie ($11.20, one hour).
TassielinkBUS
( GOOGLE MAP ; %1300 300 520; www.tassielink.com.au)
Tassielink buses stop at the visitor centre and at the Spirit of Tasmania terminal. Services from Devonport include Launceston ($25.50, 70 minutes), Sheffield ($5.60, 40 minutes), Gowrie Park ($10.20, 55 minutes), Cradle Mountain ($42.40, two hours), Queenstown ($56.20, four hours) and Strahan ($66.80, five hours).
8Getting Around
Devonport Airport & Spirit ShuttleBUS
(%1300 659 878)
WORTH A TRIP
PLATYPUSES AT LATROBE
Latrobe markets itself – with as much justification as hyperbole, it must be said – as the 'Platypus Capital of the World'. There are several good platypus-related visitor opportunities.
APlatypus Interpretation Centre, Australian Axeman’s Hall of Fame (%03-6426 2099; www.axemanscomplex.com.au; 1 Bells Pde; h9am-5pm)
A Warrawee Forest Reserve (h9am-dusk)
A Platypus-Spotting Tours (%03-6426 1774, 03-6421 4699; adult/child $10/free; h8am & 4pm)
Penguin
Pop 3159
Penguin feels like one of those pretty little English seaside towns where it’s all ice cream, buckets and spades, and the occasional sneaky breeze as you brave it out on the beach. But there’s one very un-English thing about this place: penguins! The world’s smallest penguin (Eudyptula minor) comes ashore here during its breeding season, and even if you don’t see any of them in the feather, you can get acquainted with model penguins around town.
4Sleeping & Eating
Happy BackpackerPUB
(Neptune Grand Hotel; %03-6437 2406; www.thehappybackpacker.com.au; 84 Main Rd; dm/d without bathroom from $25/65; pW)
This friendly pub has basic but fairly modern accommodation. Rooms have sinks, but toilets and showers are shared. The dining room serves cheap staples such as chicken parmigiana as well as a few Thai and seafood dishes.
MadsenBOUTIQUE HOTEL
(%0438 373 456, 03-6437 2588; www.themadsen.com; 64 Main St; d $165-300, f $220; iW)
This boutique hotel is housed in a grand former bank building across the road from the water. Some of the rooms have great views of Bass Strait. Decorated in good taste, with a touch of the antique and a good measure of contemporary cool, this is a particularly pleasurable place to stay. Book the new penthouse suite for the ultimate luxury.
oRenaessanceCAFE
(%0409 723 771; 95 Main Rd; mains $12-25; h9am-5pm Mon-Thu & Sat, to 6pm Fri, 10am-4pm Sun)
A slice of sophistication along the main street, Renaessance does salads, sandwiches, dips and great coffee. The back terrace, with its Bass Strait views, is arguably the best place to nurse a coffee or glass of wine in town.
8Information
Penguin Visitor Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(%03-6437 1421; 78 Main Rd; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri & 9am-3.30pm Sat & Sun Oct-Mar, 9.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-12.30pm Sat & 9am-3.30pm Sun Apr-Sep)
Staffed by volunteers, the friendly Penguin visitor centre has information about finding penguins and other local attractions.
WHERE TO SEE PENGUINS
True to its name, Penguin is a base for the little (or fairy) penguins that nightly come ashore along this stretch of coast between mid-September or October and March or April. There are three places to see them:
AThe largest breeding colony arrives around sunset at Lalico Beach, 22km east of Penguin. There's a viewing platform here and, on most nights in season, there’s a park ranger in residence to answer any questions. Contact the Parks & Wildlife Office (%6464 3018; parks.tas.gov.au; Short St) in Ulverstone or Penguin's visitor information centre for more details.
AA smaller colony comes ashore at Sulphur Creek (4km west of Penguin).
AWest Beach in Burnie (19km west of Penguin), behind the Makers' Workshop.
8Getting There & Away
RedlineBUS
Redline buses go from Penguin to Burnie ($6.50, 15 minutes) and Devonport ($8.50, 40 minutes) as part of their northwest-coast runs.
Deloraine
Pop 2333
At the foot of the Great Western Tiers, Deloraine has wonderful views at every turn. In the town itself, Georgian and Victorian buildings, ornate with wrought-iron tracery, crowd the main street, which leads to green parkland on the banks of the Meander River. The town has an artsy, vibrant feel, with several cool little eateries, some bohemian boutiques and secondhand shops.
1Sights & Activities
Deloraine MuseumMUSEUM
(YARNS: Artwork in Silk; GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6362 3471; www.yarnsartworkinsilk.com; 98-100 Emu Bay Rd; adult/child/family $8/2/18; h9am-5pm)
The centrepiece of this museum is an exquisite four-panel, quilted and appliquéd depiction of the Meander Valley through a year of seasonal change. It’s an astoundingly detailed piece of work that was a labour of love for 300 creative local men and women. Each of the four panels entailed 2500 hours of labour, and the whole project took three years to complete. It’s now housed in a purpose-built auditorium, where you can witness a presentation explaining the work.
41° South TasmaniaFARM
(%03-6362 4130; www.41southtasmania.com; 323 Montana Rd; h9am-5pm Nov-Mar, to 4pm Apr-Oct)SF
At this interesting farm, salmon are reared in raised tanks and a wetland is used as a natural biofilter. This no-waste, no-chemical method of fish farming is the cleanest way of raising fish – and also makes for superb smoked salmon, which you can taste (free) and buy in the tasting room, or lunch on in the cafe. Optional self-guided walks (adult/child/family $10/5/25) take you through the wetlands.
4Sleeping & Eating
Deloraine HotelPUB
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6362 2022; www.delorainehotel.com.au; Emu Bay Rd; s without bathroom $40, d with bathroom $80-120)
This 1848 pub is veritably draped in wrought-iron lace, and its once-pubbish interior recently had a cool, contemporary makeover. The simple rooms upstairs have also been given a stylish, if unpretentious, overhaul.
oBluestone GrainstoreB&B
(%03-6362 4722; www.bluestonegrainstore.com.au; 14 Parsonage St; d incl breakfast $165-180; W)S
A 150-year-old warehouse has been renovated with great style here: think whitewashed stone walls, crisp linen, leather bedheads, deep oval bathtubs…and a few funky touches such as origami flowers. There’s even a mini-cinema and films to choose from. Breakfasts draw on local produce – organic where possible.
oForest Walks LodgeLODGE
(%03-6369 5150; www.forestwalkslodge.com; Jackeys Marsh; s/d/f incl breakfast from $140/160/170)
Set in a lovely rural area, this fabulous place gets consistently good reviews. The rooms are spacious, filled with warm colours, sprinkled lightly with tasteful local crafts and artwork, and yet are smart and contemporary in the quality of the furnishings.
Make a reservation for a fine three-course evening meal, then take a guided walk through the forests of the Great Western Tiers. Bliss.
Deloraine DeliDELI, CAFE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6362 2127; 81 Emu Bay Rd; mains $11-21; h8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 2.30pm Sat)
A fine place for late-morning baguettes, bagels and focaccias, with a variety of tasty fillings. Its coffee is superb, and it does dairy- and gluten-free meals, too.
8Getting There & Away
Redline CoachesBUS
(%1300 360 000, 03-6336 1446; www.redlinecoaches.com.au)
Buses to Launceston ($14.30, 45 minutes).
TassielinkBUS
(%1300 300 520, 03-6230 8900; www.tassielink.com.au)
Buses to Cradle Mountain ($61.50, three hours) and Strahan (with transfer in Queenstown; $85.40, 6½ hours).
WORTH A TRIP
MOLE CREEK KARST NATIONAL PARK
Welcome to one of Tasmania's more unusual national parks. The clue to the appeal of Mole Creek Karst National Park (%tour bookings 03-6363 5182; www.parks.tas.gov.au) lies in the name – the word ‘karst’ refers to the scenery characteristic of a limestone region, including caves and underground streams. The Mole Creek area contains over 300 known caves and sinkholes, including public caves, which you can tour, and wild caves, which are strictly for experienced cavers.
Marakoopa CaveCAVE
The name Marakoopa derives from an Aboriginal word meaning ‘handsome’ – which this cave surely is, with its delicate stalactites and stalagmites, glowworms, sparkling crystals and reflective pools. Two tours are available here. The easy Underground Rivers and Glowworms Tour (adult/child $19/9.50; h10am, noon, 2pm & 4pm Oct-May, no 4pm tour Jun-Sep) is for all ages. The Great Cathedral and Glowworms Tour (adult/child $19/9.50; h11am, 1pm & 3pm) is more challenging, with a stairway ascent to the vast cavern known as Great Cathedral.
King Solomons CaveCAVE
(adult/child $19/9.50; hhourly departures 10.30am-4.30pm Dec-Apr, 11.30am-3.30pm May-Nov)
Tours of this compact cave will show you lavish colours and formations. Entry to King Solomons Cave is payable only by credit card or Eftpos – no cash. If you don’t have a card, cash payments for entry to both caves can be made at the ticket office near the Marakoopa Cave, 11km away.
Mole Creek Caves Ticket OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
(%03-6363 5182; www.molecreek.info; 330 Mayberry Rd, Mayberry)
Tour tickets are available at the Mole Creek Caves ticket office, close to the Marakoopa Cave entrance.
Walls of Jerusalem National Park
The Walls of Jerusalem National Park (www.parks.tas.gov.au; per person/vehicle per day $12/24) is one of Tasmania’s most beautiful parks. It’s a glacier-scoured landscape of spectacularly craggy dolerite peaks, alpine tarns and forests of ancient pines. The park adjoins the lake-spangled wilderness of the Central Plateau and is part of the Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area. Several walking tracks lead through it, and also join the park with hikes in Cradle Mountain–Lake St Clair National Park.
2Activities
The most popular walk here is the full-day trek to the ‘Walls’ themselves. A steep path leads up from the car park on Mersey Forest Rd to Trappers Hut (two hours return), Solomon’s Jewels (four hours return) and through Herod’s Gate to Lake Salome (six to eight hours return) and Damascus Gate (nine hours return). If you plan to visit historic Dixon’s Kingdom Hut and the hauntingly beautiful pencil-pine forests that surround it (10 hours return from the car park), or climb to the top of Mt Jerusalem (12 hours return), it’s better to camp overnight. There are tent platforms and a compost toilet at Wild Dog Creek.
You’ll need to be prepared for harsh weather conditions: it snows a substantial amount here, and not only in winter. Walks across the park are described in Cradle Mountain Lake St Clair and Walls of Jerusalem National Parks by John Chapman and John Siseman, and in Lonely Planet’s Walking in Australia.
Tasmanian ExpeditionsWALKING
(%03-6331 9000, 1300 666 856; www.tasmanianexpeditions.com.au)
Tasmanian Expeditions conducts a six-day Walls of Jerusalem trip ($1695), taking in the park’s highlights as well as some of the more out-of-the-way spots.
8Getting There & Away
The park is reached from Mole Creek by taking Mersey Forest Rd to Lake Rowallan. The last 11km is on well-maintained gravel roads.
Sheffield & Around
Pop 1108
In the 1980s Sheffield was a typical small Tasmanian town in the doldrums of rural decline. That was until some astute townsfolk came up with an idea that had been applied to the small town of Chemainus in Canada, with some surprisingly wonderful results. The plan was to paint large murals on walls around town, depicting scenes from the district’s pioneer days. Sheffield is now a veritable outdoor art gallery, with over 50 fantastic large-scale murals and an annual painting festival to produce more.
TTours
oMural Audio ToursWALKING
Grab a headset ($9) from the visitor centre and take a thoroughly informative audio tour of Sheffield’s outdoor art. The tour takes about 90 minutes (though you can keep the headset all day) and guides you past about 20 of the town's best murals. It also leads you through the Working Art Space (www.traksheffield.blogspot.com.au; 2 Albert St; h11am-3pm, reduced winter hours), where you can see local artists at work.
zFestivals & Events
MuralfestART
(www.muralfest.com.au; hlate Mar-early Apr)
Sheffield’s celebration of outdoor art is held each year. It’s a massive paint-off – a theme is set and artists from all over Australia descend upon the town to compete for a cash prize, with another nine murals added to the town’s walls. Book accommodation well ahead.
4Sleeping & Eating
Sheffield CabinsCABIN
(%03-6491 2176; www.sheffieldcabins.com.au; 1 Pioneer Cres; d $100-105, extra adult/child $15/10)
These are simple, clean, self-contained cabins, close to the visitor centre: you can’t beat what you get for the price. They’re pet friendly, too.
Glencoe Rural RetreatB&B
(%03-6492 3267; www.glencoeruralretreat.com.au; 1468 Sheffield Rd, Barrington; d $175-210; W)
Just north of Sheffield, on the B14 at Barrington, this gorgeous property, owned by celebrated French chef Remi Bancal, is making a great name for itself. You can stay in its romantic and eminently stylish rooms (no kids under 12) and you mustn’t miss the superb three-course dinners ($65), available by prior arrangement.
oBlacksmith Gallery CafeCAFE
(%03-6491 1887; www.fridaynitemusic.org; 63 Main St; mains $9-18; h8.30am-5pm)
This friendly, arty cafe boasts of having the best coffee in Sheffield – and it may just be right. With its retro decor, funky music and roaring wood stove on cold days, it’s a great place to hang out, have a slap-up breakfast, lazy lunch (the quiche is excellent), or coffee and cake in between. There’s a rollicking folk-singing night the last Friday of every month.
8Getting There & Away
TassielinkBUS
Tassielink buses stop directly outside the visitor centre. Services to/from Sheffield include Launceston ($31.20, two hours), Devonport ($5.60, 40 minutes), Cradle Mountain ($27.60, 70 minutes) and Strahan ($60.30, five hours).
WORTH A TRIP
TROWUNNA WILDLIFE PARK
Trowunna Wildlife ParkWILDLIFE RESERVE
(%03-6363 6162; www.trowunna.com.au; adult/child/family $22/12/60; h9am-5pm, guided tours 11am, 1pm & 3pm)
About 5km east of Mole Creek on the B12 road, and 2km west of Chudleigh, is the first-rate Trowunna Wildlife Park, which specialises in Tasmanian devils, wombats and koalas, as well as birds. There’s an informative tour, during which you get to pat, feed or even hold some of the wildlife. While there, don't miss the interactive Devil Education and Research Centre.
King Island
King Island is the kind of place where the only traffic control is a leisurely wave of the hand from a local as you pass by. A skinny sliver of land 64km long and 27km wide, King Island (or ‘KI’, as locals call it) is a laid-back place where everyone knows everyone and life is mighty relaxed. The island’s green pastures famously produce a rich dairy bounty and its surrounding seas supply fabulously fresh seafood (and fine surfing).
1Sights
King Island DairyDAIRY
(%1800 677 852, 03-6462 0947; www.kidairy.com.au; 869 North Rd; hnoon-4pm Sun-Fri)
Low-key but top-quality, King Island Dairy’s Fromagerie is 8km north of Currie (just beyond the airport). Taste its award-winning bries, cheddars and feisty blues, and then stock up in its shop on cheeses that are budget priced – only here – to fuel your King Island exploring. Its cream is sinfully delicious.
Cape WickhamHISTORIC SITE
You can drive right up to the tallest lighthouse in the southern hemisphere at Cape Wickham, on KI’s northern tip. This 48m-high tower was built in 1861 after several ships had been wrecked on the island’s treacherous coastline. Most famous of all King Island shipwrecks is the Cataraqui (1845), Australia’s worst civil maritime disaster, with the loss of 400 lives.
King Island MuseumMUSEUM
(Lighthouse St, Currie; adult/child $5/1; h2-4pm, closed Jul & Aug)
There’s information on lightkeeping, shipwrecks and monuments here and also in the King Island Maritime Trail: Shipwrecks & Safe Havens booklet, which you can pick up wherever visitor information is available.
2Activities
King Island is one of Australia's premier surfing destinations – Surfing Life magazine has voted the break at Martha Lavinia as one of the top 10 waves in the world.
You can swim at many of the island’s unpopulated beaches (beware rips and currents) and freshwater lagoons.
For hiking, pick up a map from King Island Tourism and go independently, or take a guided walk with King Island Wilderness Walks (%0400 858 339; Lighthouse St, Currie).
You don’t even need to get out on foot for wildlife spotting on KI: it’s just about everywhere you look. There are rufous and Bennett’s wallabies, pademelons, snakes, echidnas and platypuses, and you may even glimpse seals. The island has 78 bird species and, on summer evenings, little penguins come ashore around the Grassy breakwater.
4Sleeping & Eating
KI is foodie heaven. Must tries include KI cheese and dairy products, but also crayfish in season (November to August), oysters, crabs, grass-fed beef, free-range pork and game. Don’t forget to find some Cloud Juice, KI’s pure bottled rainwater. There are two supermarkets in Currie and a store in Grassy.
Bass Cabins & CampgroundCAMPGROUND
(%03-6462 1260; 5 Fraser Rd; camp site per person $14, d cabin from $85)
There are a few camp spots here, with bathroom facilities adjacent, and two two-bedroom cabins. The campground is 1.5km from the centre of Currie.
Portside LinksAPARTMENT, B&B
(%03-6461 1134; www.portsidelinks.com.au; Grassy Harbour Rd; d apt $170)
This fantastic accommodation is the best place to stay on KI. There are two stylish and well-equipped self-catering apartments here as well as a B&B room in the owners’ home. It’s a short stroll to pretty Grassy Harbour and Sand Blow Beach. Penguins nest nearby. There's a minimum two-night stay, but prices drop the longer you stay.
Boomerang by the SeaMODERN AUSTRALIAN
(%03-6462 1288; www.boomerangbythesea.com.au; Golf Club Rd; mains $29-42; h6-9pm Mon-Sat)
Arguably the best place to eat on the island, this has wraparound views and a fine menu that's big on seafood.
8Information
King Island TourismTOURIST INFORMATION
(%03-6462 1355, 1800 645 014; www.kingisland.org.au; 5 George St, Currie)
Ask about the King Island Grazing Trails map, which details historical, natural and cultural walks around the island. King Island Tourism's website is an excellent pre-trip planning resource.
8Getting There & Away
King Island AirlinesAIRLINE
(%03-9580 3777; www.kingislandair.com.au)
Melbourne Moorabbin to King Island twice daily.
Regional ExpressAIRLINE
(%13 17 13; www.regionalexpress.com.au)
Melbourne Tullamarine to King Island.
Sharp AirlinesAIRLINE
(%1300 556 694; www.sharpairlines.com)
Launceston–King Island (one-way from $261).
8Getting Around
King Island Car RentalCAR RENTAL
(%03-6462 1282, 1800 777 282; kicars2@bigpond.com; 2 Meech St, Currie)
Per day from around $73.
P&A Car RentalCAR RENTAL
(%03-6462 1603; 1 Netherby Rd)
Per day from around $80.
The Northwest
Tassie's northwest is lashed by Roaring Forties winds and in excess of 2m of rain each year, and boasts coastal heathlands, wetlands and dense temperate rainforests unchanged from Gondwana times. Communities here are either isolated rural outposts or tricked-up tourist traps. The further west you get, the fewer fellow travellers you'll encounter until you reach the woolly wilds of Tasmania's northwest tip, a region of writhing ocean beaches and tiny communities, facing an ocean with no landfall until South America.
Burnie
Pop 19,819
Long dismissed as Tasmania's ugly duckling, once-industrial Burnie is busily reinventing itself as a 'City of Makers', referring both to its heavy manufacturing past and its present creative flair. The amazing new Makers’ Workshop is Burnie’s showcase tourist attraction and should be your first stop when you visit. Watch also for penguins coming ashore from September or October until February.
1Sights & Activities
Burnie has some impressive civic and domestic architecture that you can view on two Federation walking trails. The city is also renowned for its art deco buildings, and you can see these on the Art Deco Trail. Ask at the visitor information counter in the Makers’ Workshop for interpretative maps of all three walks.
oMakers' WorkshopMUSEUM
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6430 5831; www.discoverburnie.net; 2 Bass Hwy; h9am-5pm)
Part museum, part arts centre, this dramatic new structure dominates the western end of Burnie’s main beach. It's a fabulous place to get acquainted with this city’s creative heart. You’ll notice the life-size paper people in odd corners of the workshop’s cavernous contemporary interior. These are the work of Creative Paper (%03-6430 5830; tours adult/child $15/8; htours 9.15am-4.30pm), Burnie’s handmade-paper producers. Its tours take you through the production process of making paper from such unusual raw materials as kangaroo poo, apple pulp and rainforest leaves.
Burnie Regional Art GalleryGALLERY
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6430 5875; www.burniearts.net; Burnie Arts & Function Centre, 77-79 Wilmot St; h10am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 1.30-4.30pm Sat & Sun)F
This art gallery has excellent exhibitions of contemporary Tasmanian artworks, including fine prints by some of Australia’s most prominent artists such as Sidney Nolan and Brett Whiteley.
oBurnie Penguin CentreBIRDWATCHING
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0437 436 803)F
A boardwalk on Burnie’s foreshore leads from Hilder Pde to the western end of West Beach, close to the Makers’ Workshop, where there’s a spot for watching penguins. From October to March you can take a free Penguin Interpretation Tour, about one hour after dusk as the penguins emerge from the sea and waddle back to their burrows. Volunteer wildlife guides are present to talk about the penguins and their habits.
4Sleeping
Burnie OceanviewCARAVAN PARK
(%03-6431 1925; www.burniebeachaccommodation.com.au; 253 Bass Hwy; unpowered/powered sites d $24/30, dm $25, on-site caravans d $55, cabins & units d $95-139; is)
Located 4km west of the city centre, this park has backpacker rooms, some grassy camp sites at the property’s rear, caravans with kitchenettes and a range of cabins. The indoor heated pool is the best attraction.
oIkon HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6432 4566; www.ikonhotel.com.au; 22 Mount St; d $185-220; aW)
Boutique hotel chic comes to Burnie at the centrally located Ikon Hotel. The building's heritage exterior is complemented by sleek and (extremely) spacious modern suites with leather furniture and compact kitchenettes. Interesting modern and retro art adorns the walls; the bathrooms are huge; and the rooms are bright and airy.
Seabreeze CottagesRENTAL HOUSE
(%0439 353 491; www.seabreezecottages.com.au; s $160-185, d $175-185)
These cottages just west of the city centre may just be Burnie’s best. There’s the cool, contemporary Beach House (243 Bass Hwy, Cooee), just a stroll across the road from the beach; West Park (14 Paraka St); and cute Number Six (6 Mollison St), the latter two an easy 10-minute walk to town. All are kitted out with modern, chic decor – Number Six has a jukebox and all. We love them!
5Eating
Another MotherCAFE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6431 8000; 14 Cattley St; mains $9-16; h8am-3pm Mon-Fri; v)
A cute, vibrant eatery with bright red walls, eclectic furniture and local photography for decoration, Another Mother offers wholesome, predominantly vegetarian (and some meaty) dishes crafted from local produce – organic where possible. It serves an exceptional pumpkin-and-cashew burger with yoghurt and chilli. Its sister establishment is Hot Mother Lounge ( GOOGLE MAP ; 70 Wilson St; h7am-3pm Mon-Fri), which serves equally good wraps, bakes, soups and takeaways.
oBayviewsMODERN AUSTRALIAN
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6431 7999; www.bayviewsrestaurant.com.au; 1st fl, 2 Marine Tce; lunch $12-24, dinner $33-39; hnoon-late Thu-Sat, 5pm-late Mon-Wed)S
This upmarket establishment is right on the beach and serves a brief menu of excellent fine-dining dishes, from local free-range pork to the region’s amazing grass-fed beef and terrific seafood. The wraparound views are sublime.
8Information
Visitor Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6430 5831; www.discoverburnie.net; 2 Bass Hwy; h9am-5pm)
In the Makers’ Workshop.
8Getting There & Away
Redline CoachesBUS
( GOOGLE MAP ; %1300 360 000; www.tasredline.com.au)
Redline Coaches stop on Wilmot St, opposite the Metro Cinemas. Useful destinations include Launceston ($39.30, 2½ hours) and Smithton ($24, 1½ hours).
Sharp AirlinesAIRLINE
(%1300 556 694; www.sharpairlines.com)
Flights between Burnie and King Island.
WORTH A TRIP
BOAT HARBOUR BEACH
Were it not for the weather, this could be paradise. Picture-perfect Boat Harbour has the kind of blonde-sand beach and sapphire-blue waters that make you feel like you’ve taken a wrong turn off the Bass Hwy and ended up somewhere in the Caribbean. The usually calm seas are perfect for kids and it’s a low-key, family-friendly place.
The daily Redline bus service from Burnie will drop you at the turn off to Boat Harbour (3km) or Sisters Beach (8km) for $6.50. If driving from Wynyard, the best route is to follow the C234 northwest – there are some great views of the cliffs and rocky coast along this road.
Azzure Holiday HousesRENTAL HOUSE
(%0430 066 312, 03-6445 1155; www.azzurebeachhouses.com.au; 263 Port Rd; 4/6-bed house from $280/410; W)
It’s all contemporary style at the beach houses in this complex. There’s every convenience you could imagine: DVD-CD players, wi-fi, air-conditioning, and swanky kitchens, and walls are hung with contemporary art. There’s an on-site health spa in the pipeline, too.
Harbourside B&BB&B
(%0400 595 036, 0400 595 066; www.harboursidebnb.com.au; 237 Port Rd; d incl breakfast from $195)
This cute B&B is more a contemporary private apartment with great water views. There are sensational vistas right from your bed, plus a spa and private decks.
Stanley
Pop 481
Get this far west in Tasmania and you begin to feel it. There’s a whiff of something in the air that feels quite distinctly like the end of the world. Gorgeous little Stanley exudes more than a trace of this frontier, life-on-the edge ambience. The town is a scatter of brightly painted cottages, sheltering in the lee of an ancient volcano, the Nut. Stroll through town on a fine day and you may not feel that underlying edginess that comes from being on the world’s rim, but when the Roaring Forties blast through, you’ll feel it sure enough, and that’s part of the excitement of being here.
1Sights & Activities
Under the Nut – Stanley Heritage Walk, available from the visitor information centre, takes in 14 of Stanley's more beautiful and/or interesting historic buildings. The booklet contains detailed notes on each. Check out www.stanleyheritagewalk.com.au for more information.
The NutLANDMARK
( GOOGLE MAP )
This striking 152m-high volcanic rock formation can be seen for many kilometres around Stanley. It’s a steep 20-minute climb to the top – worth it for the views – or take the chairlift ( GOOGLE MAP ; adult one way/return $9/15, child $6/10; h9.30am-5pm Oct-May, 10am-4pm Jun-Sep). The best lookout ( GOOGLE MAP ) is a five-minute walk to the south of the chairlift, and you can also take a 35-minute walk (2km) on a path around the top.
HighfieldHISTORIC BUILDING
(%03-6458 1100; www.historic-highfield.com.au; Green Hills Rd; adult/child/family $12/6/30; h9.30am-4.30pm daily Sep-May, Mon-Fri Jun-Aug)
This homestead, 2km north of town, was built in 1835 for the chief agent of the Van Diemen’s Land Company. It’s an exceptional example of domestic architecture of the Regency period in Tasmania. You can tour the house and outbuildings, including stables, grain stores, workers’ cottages and the chapel.
Van Diemen's Land Company StoreHISTORIC BUILDING
( GOOGLE MAP ; 16 Wharf Rd)
This bluestone warehouse on the seafront dates from 1844, and while it once held bales of wool for export, it now houses an exclusive boutique hotel, @VDL.
TTours
Stanley Seal CruisesBOAT TOUR
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6458 1294, 0419 550 134; www.stanleysealcruises.com.au; Fisherman's Dock; adult/child over 5yr/child under 5 $55/18/10; hSep–mid-Jun)
These excellent 75-minute cruises take you to see up to 500 Australian fur seals sunning themselves on Bull Rock on the Bass Strait coast. Departures are at 10am and 3pm from September to April, and at 10am in May and June, sea conditions permitting – book ahead to make sure they're running. The company also does offshore fishing charters.
4Sleeping
Stanley HotelHOTEL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %1800 222 397, 03-6458 1161; www.stanleytasmania.com.au; 19 Church St; s/d without bathroom $50/70, d with bathroom from $109)
This historic pub has a rabbit warren of rooms. They’re brightly painted and truly delightful – this has to be some of the nicest pub accommodation around. The shared bathrooms are superclean and the staff are superfriendly. You can sit out on the upstairs verandah and spy down on the Stanley streetscape. It also runs the six self-catering Abbeys Cottages ( GOOGLE MAP ; %1800 222 397; www.stanleytasmania.com.au; d incl breakfast $135-240).
oArk StanleyBOUTIQUE HOTEL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0421 695 224; www.thearkstanley.com.au; 18 Wharf Rd; d $140-300)
Polished wooden floors, wrought-iron furnishings, luxury linens, goose-down duvets…this place, with its individually styled rooms, takes attention to detail to a whole new level. Fine views are to be had from some of the rooms and the service is discreet but attentive.
o@VDLBOUTIQUE HOTEL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6458 2032, 0437 070 222; www.atvdlstanley.com.au; 16 Wharf Rd; d $175-255; W)
What’s been done within the bluestone walls of this 1840s warehouse is quite incredible. This ultra-hip boutique hotel has two suites and a self-contained loft apartment, which are, frankly, the coolest of the cool. Everything’s top class, from the bedding to the artworks on the walls. The same people run a sister property, @The Base ( GOOGLE MAP ; 32 Alexander Tce; d $115-140), which is a heritage house divided into two similarly stylish suites.
5Eating
Moby Dicks Breakfast BarCAFE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6458 1414; 5 Church St; mains $8-16; h7am-noon)
Tuck into an enormous breakfast here before you go out and battle the wild west winds – try a cooked-egg breakfast with the lot or waffles with maple syrup…yum.
XandersMODERN AUSTRALIAN
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6458 1111; 25 Church St; mains $28-42; h6-9pm Wed-Sun)
Stanley’s best fine-dining restaurant is set in an old house on the main street with views back and front. The menu has an accent on fish and seafood, but Xanders also serves the area’s excellent beef and specials such as duck and tandoori-rubbed rack of lamb. There’s a good kids' menu, too.
Stanley's on the BayMODERN AUSTRALIAN
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6458 1404; 15 Wharf Rd; mains $23-41; h6-9pm Mon-Sat Sep-Jun)
Set inside the historic Ford’s Store, this fine-dining establishment specialises in steak and seafood. The wonderful seafood platter for two ($100) overflows with local scallops, oysters, fish, octopus and salmon.
8Information
Stanley Visitor Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %1300 138 229, 03-6458 1330; www.stanley.com.au; 45 Main Rd; h9.30am-5pm Oct-May, 10am-4pm Jun-Sep)
A mine of information on Stanley and surrounding areas. Pick up the Take on the Edge brochure for extensive coverage of the far northwest.
8Getting There & Away
Redline CoachesBUS
Buses stop at the visitor centre en route to/from Burnie ($21.10, 75 minutes) and Smithton ($6.10, 25 minutes)
Marrawah
Pop 371
Untamed, unspoilt Marrawah is a domain of vast ocean beaches, mind-blowing sunsets and green, rural hills. The power of the ocean here is astounding, and the wild beaches, rocky coves and headlands have changed little since they were the homeland of Tasmania’s first people. This coast is abundant with signs of Aboriginal Tasmania – and somehow there’s a feeling of lonely emptiness, as if these original custodians have only just left the land.
It’s huge ocean waves that Marrawah is best known for today. Sometimes the Southern Ocean throws up the remains of long-forgotten shipwrecks here – things tumble in on waves that sometimes reach over 10m in length. Experienced surfers and windsurfers also come here for the challenging breaks.
The general store (800 Comeback Rd; h7.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8am-7.30pm Sat & Sun) sells supplies and petrol and is an agent for Australia Post and Commonwealth Bank. Fill up on fuel here if you’re planning to take the Western Explorer to Corinna as there’s no other petrol outlet until Zeehan or Waratah, about 200km away.
4Sleeping & Eating
Ann Bay CabinsCABIN
(%0428 548 760, 03-6457 1361; 99 Green Point Rd; d from $150)
These two cosy wooden cabins are just the place to hang out and get away from it all. You can sit on the deck and admire the views, or luxuriate in the deep spa bath, with bathing essentials and choccies supplied.
Marrawah Beach HouseRENTAL HOUSE
(%03-6457 1285; www.marrawahbeachhouse.com.au; d from $160)
This place is secluded, view-filled and brightly decorated with starfish and seashells. The friendly owners set it up with treats such as fresh flowers and sometimes local honey before you arrive. Sleeps up to four. It's just up the hill from Green Point Beach, and the views have few rivals in Tasmania.
Marrawah TavernTAVERN
(%03-6457 1102; Comeback Rd; mains $15-33; hnoon-10pm Mon-Wed, to midnight Thu-Sat, to 9pm Sun)
You can get a good meal and a drink at this casual country pub. Choices include steak sandwiches, prawns, roasts, beef ’n’ reef and whole local flounders.
The West
Primeval, tempestuous and elemental – this region of Tasmania is unlike anywhere else in Australia. Towering, jagged mountain ranges, buttongrass-covered alpine plateaus, raging tannin-stained rivers, dense impenetrable rainforest and unyielding rain. Humans never tamed this western wilderness and today much of the region comprises Tasmania's Wilderness World Heritage Area. Tourist-centric Strahan aside, the few towns and settlements here are rough and primitive, weathered and hardened by wilderness.
Corinna
In rip-roaring gold-rush days Corinna was a humming town with two hotels, a post office, plenty of shops and a population that numbered 2500 souls. That’s hard to believe now when you pull up on the forested edge of the Pieman River, turn off your car’s engine and absorb the unbelievable forest peace.
Less than a decade ago, the owners of what remains transformed Corinna into a deep-forest wilderness experience that offers a sense of adventure and immersion in the rainforest without forsaking too many comforts. That said, there’s no mobile-phone reception and no TVs – the most prevalent sound is birdsong. Wallabies, pademelons, wombats and other wildlife are commonly sighted here.
2Activities
Pieman River CruisesBOAT TOUR
(%03-6446 1170; adult/child $90/51; h10am)
While in Corinna you can’t miss the Pieman River Cruise, a pleasingly rustic alternative to the crowded Gordon River cruises out of Strahan. The tour on the historic MV Arcadia II lasts 4½ hours and heads downstream to where the Pieman River meets the Southern Ocean. A packed lunch is included and you've time to walk out to the remote beach before returning to Corinna. Book well ahead.
4Sleeping
oCorinna Wilderness ExperienceCOTTAGE
(%03-6446 1170; www.corinna.com.au; camp sites per 2 people $20, cottages d $200-250, f $250)
Corinna has a collection of new self-contained timber eco-cottages, as well as some older-style houses. The newer cottages are modern and rather lovely inside, and the rainforest starts right at your back door.
The pub has a well-stocked bar while the restaurant (mains $14 to $38, serving noon to 2pm and 6pm to 8pm) serves up dishes such as steak sandwiches for lunch, and two or three excellent mains (such as steak or salmon) for dinner. Picnic hampers and BBQ packs are also available for order.
8Getting There & Away
You can approach Corinna from Somerset, just west of Burnie, via the Murchison Hwy through magnificent Hellyer Gorge (perfect for picnic stops). After Waratah, the C247 is sealed as far as Savage River, from where it's 26km of unsealed, but well-maintained, gravel that's almost always passable in a 2WD. If you're taking the C249 Western Explorer Rd, it's 109 unsealed kilometres from Arthur River.
Fatman Vehicle BargeFERRY
(%03-6446 1170; motorbike/car/caravan $10/20/25; h9am-5pm Apr-Sep, to 7pm Oct-Mar)
The cable-driven Fatman vehicle barge plying the Pieman River at Corinna allows you to travel from Corinna down to Zeehan and Strahan. There’s a 9m-long, 6.5-tonne limit on vehicles.
Queenstown
Pop 1975
Most of western Tasmania is green. Queenstown is orange or red. The winding descent into Queenstown from the Lyell Hwy is unforgettable for its moonscape of bare, dusty hills and eroded gullies, where once there was rainforest. The area is the clearest testimony anywhere to the scarification of the west coast’s environment by mining. Copper was discovered here in the 1890s and mining has continued ever since.
The town itself retains its authentic, rough-and-ready pioneer feel. When we last visited, the mine had closed, numerous businesses across the town were boarded up and apocalyptic rumours of permanent decline were on the rise. That said, they're a hardy lot out here, Queenstown's tourism star is on the rise and the optimists among the locals were convinced the mine would reopen. Whatever happens, this is a town like no other in Tasmania.
1Sights
oIron BlowVIEWPOINT
On top of Gormanston Hill on the Lyell Hwy, just before the final descent along hairpin bends into Queenstown, is a sealed side road leading to an utterly spectacular lookout over the geological wound of Iron Blow. This decommissioned open-cut mine, where Queenstown’s illustrious mining career began, is awesomely deep and is now filled with emerald water. You can get an eagle’s-eye view from the new ‘springboard’ walkway projecting out into thin air above the mine pit.
oLARQ GalleryGALLERY
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0407 527 330; www.landscapeartresearchqueenstown.wordpress.com; 8 Hunter St; h2-6pm Tue-Sat mid-Jan–mid-Jun)F
Run by internationally renowned Tasmanian artist Raymond Arnold, Landscape Art Research Queenstown is a wonderful gallery that runs exhibitions by local and visiting artists, and community workshops in printmaking and painting. Its mission is to nurture a breed of art that’s inspired by the powerful natural landscapes of the west coast. It’s an excellent institution and definitely worth visiting. If it's not open, ask at the tourist office for access.
Spion Kop LookoutVIEWPOINT
( GOOGLE MAP )
Follow Hunter St uphill, turn left onto Bowes St, then do a sharp left onto Latrobe St to a small car park, from where a short, steep track leads to the summit of Spion Kop (named by returned soldiers after a battle in the Boer War). The rhododendron-lined track features a rail adit near the car park, and the top of the hill has a pithead on it.
DON'T MISS
WEST COAST WILDERNESS RAILWAY
Love the romance of the days of steam? The old wood-lined carriages with shiny brass trimmings, the breathy puffing of steam engines and the evocative, echoing train whistle? Then hop on board and make the breathtaking 35km rainforest rail journey aboard the West Coast Wilderness Railway (%03-6471 0100; www.wcwr.com.au) between Strahan and Queenstown.
When it was first built in 1896, this train and its route through torturously remote country was a marvel of engineering. It clings to the steep-sided gorge of the (once-polluted, now-recovering) King River, passing through dense myrtle rainforest over 40 bridges and on gradients that few other rolling stock could handle. The railway was the lifeblood of the Mt Lyell Mining and Railway Co in Queenstown, connecting it for ore and passenger haulage to the port of Teepookana on the King River, and later with Strahan. The original railway closed in 1963.
Since it was reopened as a tourist railway, it's had a chequered run and only reopened in 2014 after a period of closure thanks to the prohibitive cost of keeping the line open through such difficult country.
Ride options on offer (expect reduced services in winter months):
ARack & Gorge Trip that departs Queenstown at 9am Wednesday to Sunday, loops through the King River Gorge and returns at 1pm (adult/child /family $89/30/195).
ARiver & Rainforest Departs Strahan at 2pm Wednesday to Friday, skirts the harbour, enters the rainforest and then returns to Strahan at 5.30pm after crossing many of the route's spectacular bridges (adult/child /family $89/30/195).
AQueenstown Explorer Departs Strahan at 9am on Monday and Tuesday, running the railway's full length through gorge and rainforest to Queenstown (where there's a one-hour stop), before returning to Strahan at 5.30pm (adult/child/family $95/40/220).
TTours
oQueenstown Heritage ToursMINE TOUR
(Mt Lyell Mine Tours; GOOGLE MAP ; %0407 049 612; www.queenstownheritagetours.com)
The 'Lake Margaret Historic Hydropower' tour (adult/child $45/30) takes you into an early 20th-century hydroelectric power plant, and the 'Mt Lyell Underground Mine Tour' (adult $80) takes you inside the copper mine. But the real charmer is 'Lost Mines, Ancient Pines' (adult/child $80/40), which takes in some old copper and gold mines, a commercial sawmill and a stand of rainforest.
4Sleeping
Empire HotelPUB
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6471 1699; www.empirehotel.net.au; 2 Orr St; s with shared bathroom $45, d with shared/private bathroom $70/90)
The rooms here aren’t as magnificent as the imposing blackwood staircase, which is a National Trust–listed treasure, but they've a certain jaded pub charm and are generally kept clean.
Mt Lyell AnchorageB&B
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6471 1900; www.mtlyellanchorage.com; 17 Cutten St; d incl breakfast $160-170; pW)
Though you wouldn’t guess from the outside, this 1890s weatherboard home has been completely transformed into a wonderful little guesthouse with quality beds, linen and luxuriously deep carpets. Two of the spacious rooms have smart bathrooms (the others have private facilities across the hall), there’s a shared kitchen, and a comfortable lounge with wood fire.
PenghanaB&B
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6471 2560; www.penghana.com.au; 32 Esplanade; s $135-150, d $150-175, all incl breakfast; pW)
This National Trust–listed mansion was built in 1898 for the first general manager of the Mt Lyell Mining & Railway Co and, as befits its managerial stature, is located on a hill above town amid a beautiful garden with a rare number of trees. There’s comfortably old-fashioned B&B accommodation here.
5Eating
Café SerenadeCAFE
( GOOGLE MAP ; 40 Orr St; mains $11-18; h8.30am-4pm; v)
This is the best cafe in Queenstown. The food is deliciously homemade from scratch with yummy soups, sourdough toasted sandwiches, salads and good vegetarian options, as well as hearty roasts and curries. The curried scallop pies are the speciality. It also does gluten-free and dairy-free sweet treats, and the coffee is excellent.
Empire HotelMODERN AUSTRALIAN
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6471 1699; www.empirehotel.net.au; 2 Orr St; mains lunch $12, dinner $17-30; hbar 11am-10pm, lunch noon-2pm, dinner 5.30-8pm)
This old miners’ pub has survived the ages and includes an atmospheric heritage dining room serving a changing menu of hearty pub standards, including roasts, pastas and fine steaks and ribs. Try the apple and pork rissoles or the Beef Tower, a grilled steak piled high with veggies.
WORTH A TRIP
LINDA VALLEY CAFE
Linda Valley CafeCAFE
(%03-6471 3082; 1 Lyell Hwy, Linda Valley, Gormanston; mains $32-38; h10am-8pm Oct-Apr, reduced hours May-Sep)
In mining boom days, hundreds of people lived in the hills just west of Queenstown. Today there are just four residents in Linda Valley…and one unexpected gem. About 5km west of Queenstown is the much-lauded Linda Valley Cafe, which locals swear serves some of the best food on the west coast.
The cafe offers contemporary, delicious dining in unpretentious surrounds. Expect dishes such as slow-roasted pork belly and lemon pepper squid, as well as special liqueur coffees and beautiful homemade cakes. There’s free camping for tents and RVs out the back.
3Entertainment
Paragon TheatreCINEMA
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.theparagon.com.au; 1 McNamara St)
This amazingly refurbished art deco theatre shows some Hollywood and art-house films, as well as a revolving program of short films about the west coast and Queenstown. You can take your coffee or a glass of vino (and popcorn, of course) into the theatre, where seating is in deep leather couches.
8Information
Queenstown Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6471 1483; 1-7 Driffield St; h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 12.30-5pm Sat & Sun Oct-Apr, reduced winter hours)
In the Eric Thomas Galley Museum and run by volunteers, so opening hours can vary.
8Getting There & Away
TassielinkBUS
Buses arrive at, and depart from, the milk bar ( GOOGLE MAP ) at 65 Orr St. The two main routes go to Hobart ($67.60, six hours) and Launceston ($74.80, 5½ hours); the latter goes via Strahan ($10.60, 45 minutes).
Strahan
Pop 660
The Chicago Tribune newspaper once dubbed Strahan ‘the best little town in the world’ and we know what it meant. With its perfect location, nestled between the waters of Macquarie Harbour and the rainforest, it has faultless natural assets. Add to that the restored pioneer buildings – the cutesy shops, hotels and cottages crowding up the slope from the compact waterfront – and you’ve got a scene that could work as a Disney film set. These days it's more sugary sweet than wild west, but it works as a gateway town because of the unbelievable beauty that surrounds it.
1Sights & Activities
West Coast ReflectionsMUSEUM
( GOOGLE MAP ; Esplanade; h10am-6pm summer, noon-5pm winter)F
This is the museum section of the Strahan visitor centre. It’s a creative and thought-provoking display on the history of the west coast, with a refreshingly blunt appraisal of the region’s environmental disappointments and achievements, including the Franklin Blockade.
Ocean BeachBEACH
Six kilometres from town is Ocean Beach, awesome as much for its 33km length as for the strength of the surf that pounds it. This stretch of sand and sea runs uninterrupted from Trial Harbour in the north to Macquarie Heads in the south – and is the place to watch the orange orb of the sun melt into the sea. The water is treacherous: don’t swim.
oThe Ship That Never WasTHEATRE
(Esplanade; adult/child $20/10; h5.30pm Sep-May, box office opens at 5pm)
This unmissable play tells the story of convicts who escaped from Sarah Island in 1834 by hijacking a ship they were building. It's highly entertaining fun (with crowd participation) for all age groups.
TTours
A Gordon River cruise is what most visitors come to do, and the dense rainforest that lines the riverbank, and the sense of peace in these trackless wilds are things you'll never forget.
You can cruise the Gordon on a large, fancy catamaran in the company of a crowd of fellow river admirers (with plenty of comforts laid on), or be a bit more adventurous and visit with a small group by sailing boat. All cruises cross vast Macquarie Harbour before entering the mouth of the Gordon and proceeding to Heritage Landing for a rainforest walk. Most cruises visit Sarah Island – site of Van Diemen’s Land’s most infamously cruel penal colony – as well as Macquarie Heads and Hells Gates – the narrow harbour entrance. If you visit under sail, you can sneak a little further up the river than other cruise vessels are allowed to go, to beautiful Sir John Falls.
oWorld Heritage CruisesBOAT TOUR
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6471 7174; www.worldheritagecruises.com.au; Esplanade; adult $105-150, child $50-80, family $260-340; h9am mid-Aug–mid-Jul)
This business is run by the Grining family, who have been taking visitors to the Gordon since 1896 and are Strahan’s true river experts. You can join the Grinings aboard their new low-wash, environmentally sensitive catamaran, the Eagle, for a cruise through Macquarie Harbour out through Hells Gates, to Sarah Island and up the Gordon River.
Prices vary depending on whether you take a window seat (premium, or gold if on the upper deck) or one in the centre of the boat (standard). All prices include a buffet meal. If you're travelling as a family, World Heritage Cruises is the best choice as the kids can go up and visit the captain at no extra cost. There may be an additional afternoon departure in the height of summer, or no service at all in the depths of winter.
Gordon River CruisesBOAT TOUR
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6471 4300; www.gordonrivercruises.com.au; Esplanade; adult $105-220, child $52-220, f $260-334)
Run by the Royal Automobile Club of Tasmania (which seems to own half of Strahan), the Lady Jane Franklin II departs Strahan at 8.30am and returns at 2.15pm, en route exploring Macquarie Harbour, Sarah Island and the Gordon River as far as Heritage Landing.
Prices vary depending on where you are on the boat – the upper deck is an exclusive wine-and-dine experience.
oWest Coast Yacht ChartersBOAT TOUR
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6471 7422; www.westcoastyachtcharters.com.au; Esplanade; hOct-Apr)
If you’d like your Gordon River experience with a little adventure (and fewer people), then sailing on Stormbreaker is the way to go. There’s a 2½ to three-hour kayaking and fishing cruise that departs on demand most days at noon and/or 5pm (adult/child $90/50). There’s also an overnight trip up the Gordon River (adult/child $380/190), with a visit to Sarah Island and meals included.
Strahan Seaplanes & HelicoptersSCENIC FLIGHTS
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6471 7718; www.adventureflights.com.au; hMid-Sep-May)
Seaplane and helicopter flights over the region. Seaplane options include 80-minute flights over Frenchmans Cap, the Franklin and Gordon Rivers, and Sarah Island (per adult/child $199/110), and 65-minute flights over the Cradle Mountain region ($210/95). A 60-minute helicopter flight over the Teepookana Forest Reserve costs $199/120, and a quick 15 minutes over Hells Gates and Macquarie Harbour costs $110/70.
4Sleeping
Strahan BackpackersHOSTEL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6471 7255; www.strahanbackpackers.com.au; 43 Harvey St; unpowered sites per two people $20, dm $27-30, d from $65, cabins from $75; piW)
In an attractive bush setting 15 minutes’ walk from the town centre, with plain bunks and doubles, and cute A-frame cabins. There’s a kitchen block, a laundry and a games room.
oGordon GatewayAPARTMENT
( GOOGLE MAP ; %1300 134 425, 03-6471 7165; www.gordongateway.com.au; Grining St; d $79-140)
On the hillside on the way to Regatta Point, this place has motel-like studio units and larger A-frame chalets, most with sweeping water and township views.
CraysCOTTAGE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0419 300 994, 03-6471 7422; www.thecraysaccommodation.com; 11 Innes St; d $130-220; pW)
The Crays has two self-contained units on Innes St and six new bright, roomy cottages at 59 Esplanade, opposite Risby Cove. Only some have views. Guests who stay three nights are rewarded with a succulent Tasmanian crayfish on the house, and there are reduced prices for cruises with West Coast Yacht Charters.
oFranklin ManorBOUTIQUE HOTEL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6471 7311; www.franklinmanor.com.au; Esplanade; d $175-250; pW)
This beautiful historic home is the top spot to stay in Strahan. Set in well-tended gardens just back from the waterfront, it’s now an elegant boutique guesthouse with refined rooms, fine dining and equally fine service. There’s a legendary wine cellar and now also a Tasmanian produce room where you can taste and buy local delicacies.
5Eating
Risby CoveMODERN AUSTRALIAN
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6471 7572; www.risbycove.com.au; Esplanade; mains $22-38; h6-9pm)
People come from all over to dine at the Cove, a quietly sophisticated place just across the water from the town centre. The menu features fancy dishes such as roast Tamar Valley duck, and there’s always fresh Macquarie Harbour ocean trout. There’s a good kids' menu, too. The views over the water are sensational.
Hamer’s HotelPUB FOOD
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6471 4335; Esplanade; mains lunch $12-23, dinner $19-32; hnoon-2.30pm & 6-10pm)
This done-up historic pub is where most tourists go to eat in Strahan. It serves a varied menu of excellent pub fare – try the Macquarie Harbour ocean trout or the huge eye-fillet steaks. It’s often packed in summer, and it doesn’t take bookings, so get here early for meals.
Regatta Point TavernPUB FOOD
( GOOGLE MAP ; Esplanade; mains $16-29; hbar noon-10pm, meals noon-2pm & 6-8pm)
If you want to eat with the locals, away from the glitz, make your way to this down-to-earth pub near the railway terminus 2km around the bay from Strahan’s centre. There are the usual steaks and burgers, as well as good fresh fish. Check out the crayfish mornay – in season – if you’re after something fancy.
8Information
Parks & Wildlife ServiceTOURIST INFORMATION
(%03-6471 7122; www.parks.tas.gov.au; The Esplanade; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri)
In the old Customs House – also houses the post office, online access centre and an ATM.
West Coast Visitor Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(%03-6472 6800; www.westcoast.tas.gov.au; The Esplanade; h10am-6.30pm Dec-Mar, to 6pm Apr-Nov)
Includes the West Coast Reflections museum.
8Getting There & Away
TassielinkBUS
(%1300 300 520; www.tassielink.com.au)
Services arrive at, and depart from, the visitor centre. Destinations include Launceston ($85.40, seven hours), Hobart ($78.20, 7½ hours) and Queenstown ($10.60, 45 minutes).
Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers National Park
Saved from hydroelectric immersion in the 1980s, this World Heritage–listed national park (www.parks.tas.gov.au) embraces the catchment areas of the Franklin and Olga Rivers and part of the Gordon River – all exceptional rafting, bushwalking and climbing areas. The park's snow-capped summit is Frenchmans Cap (1443m; a challenging three- to five-day walk). The park also boasts a number of unique plant species and the major Indigenous Australian archaeological site at Kutikina Cave.
Much of the park consists of deep river gorges and impenetrable rainforest, but the Lyell Hwy traverses its northern end. There are a handful of short walks starting from the highway, including hikes to Nelson Falls (20 minutes return) and Donaghys Hill (40 minutes return), from where you can see the Franklin River and the sky-high white quartzite dome of Frenchmans Cap.
RAFTING THE FRANKLIN
Rafting the Franklin River is about as wild and thrilling a journey as it’s possible to make in Tasmania. This is extreme adventure and a world-class rafting experience. Experienced rafters can tackle it independently if they’re fully equipped and prepared, but for anyone who’s less than completely river savvy (and that’s about 90% of all Franklin rafters), there are tour companies offering complete rafting packages. If you go with an independent group you must contact the park rangers at the Queenstown Parks and Wildlife Service (%03-6471 2511; Penghana Rd) for current information on permits, regulations and environmental considerations. You should also check out the Franklin rafting notes at www.parks.tas.gov.au. All expeditions should register at the booth at the point where the Lyell Hwy crosses the Collingwood River, 49km west of Derwent Bridge.
The trip down the Franklin, starting at Collingwood River and ending at Sir John Falls, takes between eight and 14 days, depending on river conditions. Shorter trips on certain sections of the river are also possible. From the exit point at Sir John Falls, you can be picked up by a Strahan Seaplanes & Helicopters ( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6471 7718; www.strahanseaplanesandhelicopters.com.au; Strahan Wharf; h8.30am-5pm Sep-May) seaplane, or by Stormbreaker for the trip back to Strahan.
The upper Franklin, from Collingwood River to the Fincham Track, passes through the bewitchingly beautiful Irenabyss Gorge, from where you can scale Frenchmans Cap as a side trip. The lower Franklin, from the Fincham Track to Sir John Falls, passes through the wild Great Ravine.
Tasmanian ExpeditionsRAFTING
(%1300 666 856; www.tasmanianexpeditions.com.au; h9-day trip $2695)
Classic Franklin River trip, with a boat back to Strahan.
Franklin River RaftingRAFTING
(%0422 642 190; www.franklinriverrafting.com; 70 Dillons Hill Rd, Glaziers Bay; 8/10-day trip $2695/2995)
Excellent eight- and 10-day trips from Collingwood Bridge, with trips on the Stormbreaker back to Strahan. The longer trip includes the chance to climb Frenchmans Cap.
Water By NatureRAFTING
(%0408 242 941, 1800 111 142; www.franklinrivertasmania.com; 5/7/10-day trips $1980/2440/2980)
This outfit provides five, seven and 10-day trips and you get to fly out of the Gordon River in a seaplane. Also offers climbs of Frenchmans Cap.
Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park
Cradle Mountain – that perfect new-moon curve of rock that photographers love to capture reflected in mirror-still waters – has become something of a symbol of Tasmania. It’s perhaps the best-known feature on the island and is regarded as the crowning glory of the 1262-sq-km Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park. The park's glacier-sculpted mountain peaks, river gorges, lakes, tarns and wild alpine moorlands extend from the Great Western Tiers in the north to Derwent Bridge in the south.
The legendary adventure within the park is the celebrated Overland Track, a week-long hike that’s become something of a holy grail for bushwalkers. The 65km track, stretching from Cradle Mountain to Lake St Clair (Leeawuleena or ‘sleeping water’ to Tasmania’s Indigenous people), is an unforgettable journey through Tasmania’s alpine heart.
Less known is that Cradle Mountain is a fabulous wildlife-watching destination as well – sightings of wombats, Bennett's wallabies and pademelons are almost guaranteed, with Tassie devils and platypuses also possible.
1Sights
Devils@CradleWILDLIFE RESERVE
(%03-6492 1491; www.devilsatcradle.com; 3950 Cradle Mountain Rd; adult/child $18/10, family $45-60, night feeding tours adult/child $27.50/15, family $70-90; h10am-4pm, tours 10.30am, 1pm & 3pm, night tours 5.30pm)
This excellent wildlife park is filled with Tasmanian devils, a wombat or two, and elusive eastern and spotted-tail quolls. Here you can learn about the facial tumour disease that's threatening the devils' survival. You can visit on your own at any time, but try getting here at tour times to really get the most from your visit. The mainly nocturnal animals are observed most spectacularly at feeding time (5.30pm); there's an additional night feeding time at 8.30pm during daylight saving.
Wilderness GalleryGALLERY
(%03-6492 1404; www.wildernessgallery.com.au; Cradle Mountain Rd; admission $7, free for Cradle Mountain Hotel guests; h10am-5pm)
At the Cradle Mountain Hotel complex, on the road into Cradle Mountain, this impressive gallery showcases incredible environmental photography. It also has a fascinating Tasmanian Tiger Exhibition, complete with the only thylacine-skin rug in existence.
PARK ACCESS
Traffic is strictly controlled within the park and once the vehicle quota (or parking capacity) is reached on the Cradle Valley road, the boom gates won't open to let vehicles in until enough vehicles have left. This can be a particular problem in the morning.
To keep traffic out of the park, most access is now by shuttle bus. Buses run every 10 to 20 minutes between about 8am and 8pm in summer (reduced hours in winter) from the Cradle Mountain Transit Centre (by the visitor centre) where you park your car. The fare is included in a valid parks pass. Buses stop at the ranger station interpretation centre, Snake Hill, Ronny Creek and Dove Lake.
2Activities
Cradle Valley Walks
Cradle Valley has some of the most accessible trailheads in the park. The following is by no means an exhaustive list.
Knyvet Falls (25 minutes return) Begins opposite Cradle Mountain Lodge.
Crater Lake (two hours return) Climb up to this lake-filled crater from the Ronny Creek car park.
Cradle Valley Walk (two hours one way) An easy 8.5km walk from the interpretation centre to Dove Lake. It's boardwalked as far as Ronny Creek (5.5km); the rest of the track to Dove Lake can get quite muddy and is sometimes closed after heavy rain.
Dove Lake Circuit (two- to three-hour loop) Go all the way around the lake from Dove Lake car park, with near-constant Cradle Mountain views.
Cradle Mountain Summit (six to eight hours return) A tough but spectacular climb with incredible views in fine weather. Not recommended in bad visibility or when it’s snowy and icy in winter. Can begin at either Dove Lake car park or Ronny Creek.
Cynthia Bay Walks
If you're at the southern, Lake St Clair end of the national park, these are our pick of the day hikes on offer.
Larmairremener tabelti (one hour return) Aboriginal cultural-interpretative walk that winds through the traditional lands of the Larmairremener, the Indigenous people of the region. It starts at the visitor centre and loops through the lakeside forest before leading along the shoreline back to the centre.
Platypus Bay Circuit (30 minutes return) From Watersmeet, near the visitor centre.
Shadow Lake Circuit (four to five hours return)
Mt Rufus Circuit (seven to eight hours return)
Lake St Clair Lakeside Walk Catch the ferry to Echo Point (three to four hours walk back to Cynthia Bay) or Narcissus Hut (five to seven hours back to Cynthia Bay) and walk back along the lakeshore.
Family Walks
Although it depends on the age of your kids, many of the walks in Cradle Valley are suitable for children of reasonable fitness. If your kids are really young, the following might appeal.
Rainforest Walk & Pencil Pine Falls (10 minutes return) Begins at the interpretation centre. It's easy and boardwalked, but quite spectacular.
Enchanted Nature Walk (25 minutes return) Begins near Cradle Mountain Lodge and runs alongside Pencil Pine Creek. Accessible for prams and wheelchairs for most of the way.
Weindorfers Forest Walk (20 minutes return) Begins next to Waldheim Cabins and climbs up through the forest. Not pram or wheelchair accessible.
Ronny Creek (20 to 25 minutes return) The boardwalks that mark the start of the Overland Track are ideal for families, with wombats in abundance.
THE OVERLAND TRACK
This is Tasmania’s iconic alpine journey, a 65km, six- to eight-day odyssey with backpack through incredible World Heritage–listed mountainscapes from Ronny Creek, near Cradle Mountain, to Lake St Clair. The track ends on the northern shore of Lake St Clair – from here you can catch the ferry, or walk the 15km Lakeside Track back to civilisation. If you have experience of camping and multi-day hikes, good fitness and are well prepared for Tasmania’s erratic weather, it’s a very achievable independent adventure. Inexperienced walkers should consider going with a guided group.
Most hikers walk the Overland Track during summer when alpine plants are fragrantly in flower, daylight hours are long and you can work up enough heat to swim in one of the frigid alpine tarns. The track is very busy at this time and is subject to a crowd-limiting permit system. The track is quiet and icily beautiful for experienced walkers in winter. Spring and autumn have their own charms, and fewer walkers than in summer (though the permit system still applies).
Apart from the permit season, when a north-south walking regulation is enforced, the track can be walked in either direction. The trail is well marked for its entire length. Side trips lead to features such as Mt Ossa, and some fantastic waterfalls – so it’s worth budgeting time for some of these. Apart from in the dead of winter, you can expect to meet many walkers each day.
There are unattended huts with bare wooden bunks and gas heaters spaced a day’s walking distance apart along the track, but don’t count on any room inside in summer – carry a tent. Campfires are banned and you must carry a fuel stove for cooking.
The walk itself is extremely varied, negotiating high alpine moors, rocky scree, gorges and tall forest. A detailed description of the walk and major side trips is given in Lonely Planet’s Walking in Australia. For further notes on the tracks in the park, read Cradle Mountain–Lake St Clair and Walls of Jerusalem National Parks by John Chapman and John Siseman. A handy pocket-sized reference for the walk is the P&WS's The Overland Track: One Walk, Many Journeys, which has notes on ecology and history plus illustrations of flora and fauna you may see along the way. You can get all the latest on the track and walk planning at www.parks.tas.gov.au. The reference map for the track and surrounds is the 1:100,000 Cradle Mountain–Lake St Clair map published by Tasmap.
The permit system (adult/child $200/160) is in place from 1 October to 31 May, with a maximum of 34 independent walkers setting out each day. Permits can be obtained at www.parks.tas.gov.au – bookings for each season open on 1 July.
TTours
Tasmanian ExpeditionsWALKING
(%1300 666 856; www.tasmanianexpeditions.com.au; hOct-early May)
Tasmanian Expeditions does a six-day Overland Track trek (from $1995), plus a range of other hikes through the national park and beyond.
Cradle Mountain HutsWALKING
(%03-6392 2211; www.cradlehuts.com.au; from $2850; hOct-May)
A six-day/five-night, guided walk along the Overland Track staying in private huts with others carrying your pack.
WATCHING WILDLIFE
Cradle Mountain is one of the easiest places in Australia to see wildlife in abundance. In addition to the following, it's possible to see Tasmanian devils, echidnas, spotted-tailed quolls and eastern quolls.
Common wombat Seen regularly throughout the park, but best found along the Ronny Creek valley before dusk.
Tasmanian pademelon This small, plump, wallaby-like creature is commonly seen throughout the park, especially around accommodation such as Cradle Mountain Hotel.
Bennett's wallaby Not as common as the pademelon, but still seen regularly, including around Ronny Creek.
Platypus Present in most of the park's rivers, but try Ronny Creek close to dawn or dusk.
4Sleeping & Eating
Cradle Valley
Discovery Holiday Parks Cradle MountainCARAVAN PARK
(%03-6492 1395; www.discoveryholidayparks.com.au; Cradle Mountain Rd; unpowered/powered sites per 2 people $36/46, dm $32, cabins from $144, cottages from $159; piW)
This bushland complex is 2.5km from the national park. It has well-separated sites, a YHA-affiliated hostel, a camp kitchen and a laundry, and self-contained cabins.
oCradle Mountain Highlanders CottagesCOTTAGE
(%03-6492 1116; www.cradlehighlander.com.au; Cradle Mountain Rd; d $125-285; p)
This is the best-kept secret at Cradle Mountain! The genuinely hospitable hosts have a charming collection of immaculately kept self-contained timber cottages. All have wood or gas fires, queen-sized beds, electric blankets and continental-breakfast provisions. Three cabins include a spa, and all are serviced daily.
Cradle Mountain HotelHOTEL
(%1800 420 155, 03-6492 1404; www.cradlemountainhotel.com.au; Cradle Mountain Rd; d from $169; piW)
This large complex is the first you come to on the way into Cradle Valley, and heralds its presence with a grand porticoed gate. Though the public areas are pleasantly timbered and log-fire-warmed, the rooms are, frankly, rather motel-ish. Get one on the front side to ensure a rainforest view.
There's a decent buffet restaurant (adult/child $38/19), or the more refined Grey Gum à la carte restaurant (mains from $28).
oCradle Mountain LodgeLODGE
(%1300 806 192, 03-6492 2103; www.cradlemountainlodge.com.au; Cradle Mountain Rd; d $189-870; paiW)
When this mountain resort of wooden cabins emerges from the swirling mist on a winter’s day, you can’t help but be charmed by its ambience. Most rooms wear a contemporary feel and some have open fires, the lodge puts on dozens of activities and guided walks, and the Waldheim Alpine Spa offers relaxing massages and beauty treatments.
Tavern Bar & BistroBISTRO
(%03-6492 2100; www.cradlemountainlodge.com.au; mains $16-29; hnoon-8.30pm )
Hearty mountain fare and a roaring open fire give this unpretentious place at Cradle Mountain Lodge its charm. It's all about pasta, burgers, steaks and salmon, and it has a good kids' menu. There's also live music some Wednesdays at 8.30pm.
Cynthia Bay & Derwent Bridge
Lake St Clair LodgeLODGE
(%03-6289 1137; www.lakestclairlodge.com.au; unpowered/powered sites per 2 people $25/30, dm/d $40/110, cottages $185-550; pi)
Unpowered bush-camping sites on the lakeshore, and powered caravan spots. The backpackers lodge has two- to four-bunk rooms and kitchen facilities. There are also upmarket self-contained cottages. In the main building opposite the Lake St Clair visitor centre there’s a cafe, serving a hearty menu to fill you up before or after a bushwalk. Last orders at 6.30pm.
Hungry Wombat CaféCAFE
(Lyell Hwy; mains $6-16; h8am-6pm summer, 9am-5pm winter)
Part of the service station, this friendly cafe serves breakfasts that'll keep you going all day. For lunch there are soups, sandwiches, fish and chips, pies, wraps and burgers, and there’s a range of all-day snacks, coffees and cakes. Everything’s homemade and jolly good. There’s a small grocery section, too, and it gives tourist info.
DON'T MISS
WALL IN THE WILDERNESS
Wall in the WildernessLANDMARK
(%03-6289 1134; www.thewalltasmania.com; adult/child $10/6; h9am-5pm Sep-Apr, to 4pm May-Aug)
On your journey between Derwent Bridge and Bronte Park, don’t miss the Wall in the Wilderness. This amazing creation is a work of art in progress. Wood sculptor Greg Duncan is carving a panorama in wood panels depicting the history of the Tasmanian highlands. The scale is incredible – when it’s finished, which will take an estimated 10 years, the scene will be 100m long.
Though the tableau is large-scale, it’s carved with breathtaking skill and detail – from the veins in the workers’ hands, to the creases in their shirts, to the hair of their beards. The Wall is 2km east of Derwent Bridge, and is definitely worth making time to check out.
8Information
Cradle Mountain Visitor Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(%03-6492 1110; www.parks.tas.gov.au; 4057 Cradle Mountain Rd; h8am-5pm, reduced winter hours)
Cradle Mountain visitor centre is just outside the park boundary. Here you can buy your park passes, get detailed bushwalking information and maps, weather condition updates and advice on bushwalking gear, bush safety and bush etiquette. The centre has toilets, a small shop-cafe (%03-6492 1024; Cradle Mountain Rd; mains $8-11; h8am-9pm Dec-Mar, 9am-5pm Apr-Nov) and Eftpos (cash out may be available). It also accepts credit-card payment. There are no ATMs.
Ranger Station Interpretation CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(h8.30am-5pm during daylight saving, to 4pm in winter)
Just inside the park boundary at Cradle Valley is the ranger station interpretation centre. At the time of writing, it was building an auditorium for video presentations on the natural history of Cradle Mountain and the tracks in the area. There are also Aboriginal cultural displays.
Lake St Clair Visitor Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(%03-6289 1172; www.parks.tas.gov.au; Cynthia Bay; h8am-5pm)
Cynthia Bay, on the southern boundary of the park, has the Lake St Clair visitor centre. It provides park and walking information and has displays on the area’s geology, flora, fauna and Aboriginal heritage. If you’ve forgotten your rain gear you can pick up some waterproof attire in the shop here.
8Getting There & Away
TassielinkBUS
(%1300 300 520; www.tassielink.com.au)
Services to Cradle Mountain Transit Centre from Launceston via Devonport – pick-up at the ferry terminal can be arranged. Destinations from Cradle include Launceston ($61.50, 3¼ hours), Devonport ($42.40, two hours) and Strahan ($42.40, three to four hours). It also has a Hobart–Lake St Clair service ($53.60, 2½ hours).
8Getting Around
Lake St Clair FerryFERRY
(%03-6289 1137; www.lakestclairlodge.com.au; one-way adult/child $40/20)
Lake St Clair Lodge operates bushwalkers’ ferry trips to and from Narcissus Hut at Lake St Clair's northern end. The boat departs Cynthia Bay three times daily (9am, noon and 3pm) year-round (or on demand, minimum six people), reaching Narcissus Hut about 30 minutes later. Winter departures may be reduced, so always ring ahead.
If you’re using the ferry service at the end of your Overland Track hike, for which bookings are essential, you must radio the ferry operator when you arrive at Narcissus to reconfirm your booking. You can also ride the ferry from Cynthia Bay to Echo Point (adult/child $35/17), and then walk back to Cynthia Bay (two to three hours).
The Southwest
Southwest National Park
The state’s largest national park is made up of remote, wild country – forest, mountain, grassy plains and seascapes. Here grows the Huon pine, which lives for 3000 years, and the swamp gum, the world’s tallest flowering plant. About 300 species of lichen, moss and fern – some very rare – festoon the rainforests, and the alpine meadows are picture-perfect with wild flowers and flowering shrubs. Through it all run wild rivers, their rapids tearing through deep gorges and their waterfalls plunging over cliffs.
2Activities
Bushwalking
The most-trodden walks in the park are the 70km Port Davey Track between Scotts Peak Rd and Melaleuca (around five days), and the considerably more popular 85km South Coast Track (six to eight days) between Cockle Creek and Melaleuca.
On both tracks, hikers should be prepared for vicious weather. Light planes airlift bushwalkers into Melaleuca in the southwest (there are no roads), while there's vehicle access and public transport to/from Cockle Creek at the other end of the South Coast Track, and Scotts Peak Rd at the other end of the Port Davey Track.
8Information
8Getting There & Around
From November through March, Evans Coaches (%03-6297 1335; www.evanscoaches.com.au) operates an early morning bus to the start (and finish) of the Mt Anne Circuit, and to Scotts Peak Dam (near the start/finish of the Port Davey Track). Evans also runs a bushwalker pick-up/drop-off service at Cockle Creek, at the end of the South Coast Track.
KEEPING SAFE – BLIZZARDS & HYPOTHERMIA
Blizzards can occur in Tasmania's mountains at any time of year. Bushwalkers need to be prepared for such freezing eventualities, particularly in remote areas. Take warm clothing such as thermals and jackets, plus windproof and waterproof garments. Carry a high-quality tent suitable for snow camping and enough food for two extra days, in case you get held up by bad weather.
Hypothermia is a significant risk, especially during winter in southern parts of Australia – and especially in Tasmania. Strong winds produce a high chill factor that can result in hypothermia even in moderately cool temperatures. Early signs include the inability to perform fine movements (such as doing up buttons), shivering and a bad case of the 'umbles' (fumbles, mumbles, grumbles and stumbles). The key elements of treatment include moving out of the cold, changing out of any wet clothing into dry clothes with windproof and waterproof layers, adding insulation and providing fuel (water and carbohydrates) to allow shivering, which builds the internal temperature. In severe hypothermia, shivering actually stops – this is a medical emergency requiring rapid evacuation in addition to the above measures.
Lake Pedder & Strathgordon
At the northern edge of the southwest wilderness lies the Lake Pedder Impoundment, a vast flooded valley system covering the area that once cradled the original Lake Pedder, a spectacularly beautiful natural lake that was the region’s ecological jewel. The largest glacial outwash lake in the world, its shallow, whisky-coloured waters covered 3 sq km and its wide, sandy beach made an ideal light-plane airstrip. The lake was home to several endangered species and considered so important it was the first part of the southwest to be protected within its own national park. But even this status ultimately failed to preserve it and Lake Pedder disappeared beneath the waters of the Pedder/Gordon hydroelectric dam scheme in 1972.
These days, trout fishing is popular here. The lake is stocked and fish caught range from 1kg to the occasional 20kg monster. Small boats and dinghies are discouraged because the lake is 55km long and prone to dangerously large waves. Boat ramps exist at Scotts Peak Dam in the south and near Strathgordon in the north.
4Sleeping
Edgar Camping GroundCAMPGROUND
F
One of two campgrounds near the lake’s southern end, Edgar Camping Ground has pit toilets, water, fine views of the area and usually a fisherman or two – in wet weather it’s less attractive as it’s exposed to cold winds.
Huon CampgroundCAMPGROUND
(campsite d $10, extra adult/child $5/2.50)
One of two campgrounds near the lake’s southern end, Huon Campground hides in tall forest near Scotts Peak Dam.
8Information
Visitor Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(Gordon River Rd; h9am-6.30pm)
About 12km west of Strathgordon is the visitor information centre, poised above the 140m-high Gordon Dam and providing information.