Around Wollongong
South of the City
Just south of Wollongong, Lake Illawarra is popular for water sports, including windsurfing. There are good ocean beaches on the Windang Peninsula to the east of the lake. Further south is Shellharbour, a popular holiday resort, and one of the coast's oldest towns. Its name derives from the shell middens (remnants of Aboriginal occupation) that the European colonists found here.
Illawarra Escarpment State Conservation Area
Rainforest hugs the edge of the ever-eroding sandstone cliffs of the escarpment, which rises to 534m at Mt Kembla. For wonderful coastal views, drive up to the Mt Keira lookout (464m); take the freeway north and follow the signs.
North of the City
On the road north to Royal National Park, the Lawrence Hargrave Lookout at Bald Hill above Stanwell Park is a cliff-top viewing point. Hargrave, a pioneer aviator, made his first attempts at flying early in the 20th century. Modern hang-gliders keep his obsession alive, and HangglideOz (%0417 939 200; www.hangglideoz.com.au; from $245) and Sydney Hang Gliding Centre both offer tandem flights.
Symbio Wildlife Gardens ( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-4294 1244; www.symbiozoo.com.au; 7-11 Lawrence Hargrave Dr, Stanwell Tops; adult/child $27/15; h9.30am-5pm) has more than 1000 cute and furry critters, including indigenous Australian and exotic overseas species.
Royal National Park
Royal National ParkNATIONAL PARK
(%02-9542 0648; www.environment.nsw.gov.au; cars $11, pedestrians & cyclists free; hpark gates locked at 8.30pm)
The 15,091-hectare Royal National Park was established in 1879, making it the oldest national park in the world after Yellowstone in the USA. Stretching inland from 32km of beautiful coast, it encompasses pockets of subtropical rainforest, windblown coastal scrub, sandstone gullies dominated by gum trees, fresh- and saltwater wetlands, secluded beaches and dramatic cliffs. Traditionally the home of the Dharawal people, there are also numerous Aboriginal sites and artefacts.
Walking tracks include the spectacular 26km (two-day) Coast Track. Most beaches are unpatrolled and rips can make them dangerous. Garie, Era, South Era and Burning Palms are popular surf beaches, and Werrong Beach is clothing optional.
On the southern shore of Port Hacking, Bundeena is surrounded by the park. Walk 30 minutes to Jibbon Head for a good beach and interesting Aboriginal rock art. Bundeena is also the starting point of the coastal walk.
DON'T MISS
HERE’S TO THE VIEW
Scarborough HotelSEAFOOD
(%02-4267 5444; www.scarboroughhotel.com.au; 383 Lawrence Hargrave Dr, Scarborough; mains $25-30; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun)
Built in 1886 and heritage listed, Scarborough Hotel boasts one of Australia's finest beer gardens. The ocean view is truly spectacular and the excellent food is definitely worth the trek. Share the massive seafood platter ($98) with a travelling companion and you won't be disappointed. Downstairs is the Matthew Gillett Gallery (www.matthewgillettgallery.com; h9am-4pm), with always-interesting contemporary exhibitions from Australian artists.
4Sleeping
Bush camping is allowed in some areas, but you must obtain a permit (adult/child $5/3) from the visitor centre.
Bonnie Vale CampgroundCAMPGROUND
( GOOGLE MAP ; http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/Royal-National-Park/bonnie-vale/camping; Sea Breeze Lane; adult/child $14/7)
This 74-space site near Bundeena is equipped with toilets, hot showers and picnic tables.
Beachhaven B&BB&B
(%02-9544 1333; www.beachhavenbnb.com.au; Hordens Beach, Bundeena; r from $300; aW)
Shaded by palms and with direct access to gorgeous Hordens Beach, this place has two swank rooms. Amenities include a spa overlooking the sand.
8Information
Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9542 0648; www.environment.nsw.gov.au/nationalparks; Farnell Ave; h8.30am-4.30pm)
Entrance fees, camping permits, maps and bushwalking information. The centre is at Audley, 2km inside the park's northeastern entrance, off the Princes Hwy.
8Getting There & Away
Cronulla National Park Ferries (%02-9523 2990; www.cronullaferries.com.au; adult/child $6.40/3.20; hhourly 5.30am-6.30pm) travel to Bundeena from Cronulla, accessible by train from Sydney.
Kiama & Around
Pop 12,817
Kiama’s a large town with fine old buildings, magnificent mature trees, numerous beaches and crazy rock formations, but it’s the blowhole that’s the clincher.
1Sights & Activities
There’s a compact surf beach right in town, and Bombo Beach, 3km north of the centre, has a CityRail stop right near the sand.
Blowhole PointLANDMARK
Most dramatic when the surf’s up, with water exploding out of a fissure in the headland. Floodlit at night.
Little BlowholeLANDMARK
(off Tingira Cres, Marsden Head)
Just half a metre wide, but definitely challenging its big brother.
Saddleback MountainNATURE RESERVE
Great views of the Illawarra Escarpment. From Manning St, turn right onto Saddleback Mountain Rd.
Illawarra FlyNATURE RESERVE
(%1300 362 881; www.illawarrafly.com.au; 182 Knights Hill Rd, Knights Hill; adult/child/family $25/10/64; h9am-5pm, last entry 4.15pm)
There are spectacular views from this 500m viewing tower and Treetop Walk amid the rainforest canopy at the top of the escarpment, 25km west of town. Recently added is an exciting zipline (adult/child $75/45); the cost of the zipline includes entry to the viewing tower and Treetop Walk. Allow around 2½ hours for the whole adventure and note the zipline must be booked online.
Minnamurra Rainforest CentreNATURE RESERVE
(%02-4236 0469; www.environment.nsw.gov.au/contact/MinnamurraRainforest.htm; car $11; h9am-5pm, last entry 4pm)
On the eastern edge of Budderoo National Park, about 14km inland from Kiama. A 1.6km loop walk transits through the rainforest following a cascading stream. Look out for water dragons and lyrebirds. A secondary 2.6km walk on a steepish track leads to the Minnamurra Falls.
Coastal WalkWALKING
This pretty 6km trail stretches from Love’s Bay in Kiama Heights to the northern end of Werri Beach.
4Sleeping & Eating
oKiama Harbour CabinsCABIN
(%02-4232 2707; www.kiamacoast.com.au; Blowhole Point; cottages from $220; a)
In the best position in town, these cottages are neat as a pin and well equipped with barbecues on front verandahs overlooking the beach and the ocean pool.
Chachi'sITALIAN
(%02-4233 1144; www.chachisrestaurant.com.au; 32 Collins St; mains $22-35; h11.30am-2.30pm Tue-Fri & 5.30-9pm Tue-Sat)
Located in a historic strip of terraced houses, Chachi’s is well loved among locals for its casual alfresco dining.
8Information
Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(%1300 654 262, 02-4232 3322; www.kiama.com.au; Blowhole Point Rd; h9am-5pm)
On Blowhole Point.
8Getting There & Around
Premier (%13 34 10; www.premierms.com.au) buses run twice daily to Berry ($18, 30 minutes), Eden ($69, 7½ hours) and Sydney ($25, 2½ hours). Kiama Coaches (%02-4232 3466; www.kiamacoaches.com.au) runs to Gerroa, Gerringong and Minnamurra (via Jamberoo).
Frequent Sydney Trains (%13 15 00; www.sydneytrains.info) departures run to Wollongong, Sydney and Nowra (Bomaderry).
If you’re driving, take the beach detour via Gerringong and Gerroa and rejoin the highway either in Berry or just north of Nowra.
Shoalhaven Coast
This region's coastal beauty includes great beaches, state forests and national parks, including the huge (190,751-hectare) Morton National Park. Accommodation prices increase on weekends and during school holidays.
Berry
Pop 1690
Berry is a popular inland stop on the South Coast. Look forward to a smattering of antique and design stores, and an emerging foodie scene with good cafes and restaurants. Wonderfully scenic Kangaroo Valley is a short drive away.
1Sights & Activities
The town’s short main street features National Trust–classified buildings and there are good-quality vineyards in the rolling countryside around Berry.
Berry MuseumMUSEUM
(135 Queen St; h11am-2pm Sat, to 3pm Sun)F
In an interesting 1884 bank building.
Jasper Valley WinesWINERY
(www.jaspervalleywines.com; 152 Croziers Rd; h10am-5pm Fri-Sun)
Located 5km south of Berry, and offering tastings and lunches.
Silos EstateWINERY
(%02-4448 6082; www.thesilos.com; B640 Princes Hwy, Jaspers Brush; mains $34; hlunch & dinner Thu-Sun)
Tastings, an acclaimed restaurant, and boutique accommodation ($175 to $245).
zFestivals & Events
Berry Country FairFAIR
(hfirst Sun of month )
Monthly market with arts, crafts and local produce.
Berry Celtic FestivalCULTURAL
(www.berryrotary.com.au; Berry Showgrounds; adult/child $10/5; hlast Sat in May)
Caber tossers, haggis hurlers and bagpipes.
4Sleeping
Village BoutiqueMOTEL
(%02-4464 3570; www.berrymotel.com.au; 72 Queen St; r $165-240; aWs)
Large, comfortable rooms feature at this upmarket place at the edge of the main strip.
Bellawongarah at BerryB&B
(%02-4464 1999; www.accommodation-berry.com.au; 869 Kangaroo Valley Rd, Bellawongarah; r from $250; a)
Rainforest surrounds this wonderful place, 8km from Berry on the mountain road to Kangaroo Valley. Asian art features in the main house, while an 1868 Wesleyan church with a French provincial ambience is rented as a self-contained cottage.
5Eating
Berry Woodfired SourdoughBAKERY
(www.berrysourdoughcafe.com.au; Prince Alfred St; mains $10-26; h8am-3pm Wed-Sun)
Stock up on bread or dine in at this bakery that's beloved by foodies. The owners also run Milkwood Bakery (109 Queen St; h7am-6pm) on Berry's main drag. Try the delicious gourmet pies.
oHungry DuckASIAN
(%02-4464 2323; www.hungryduck.com.au; 85 Queen St; mains $17-34, 5-/9-course banquet $50/80; h6-9.30pm Wed-Mon)S
A contemporary Asian menu is served tapas-style, although larger mains are also available. There’s a rear courtyard and kitchen garden where herbs are plucked direct to the plate. Fresh fish, meat and eggs are all sourced locally.
8Getting There & Away
Frequent trains go to Wollongong ($6.30, 75 minutes) with connections to other South Coast towns and Sydney.
Premier (%13 34 10; www.premierms.com.au) has buses to Kiama ($18, 30 minutes), Nowra ($18, 20 minutes) and Sydney ($25, three hours, twice daily).
WORTH A TRIP
KANGAROO VALLEY
From either Nowra or Berry, a shaded forested road meanders to pretty Kangaroo Valley. This lovely historic town is cradled by mountains, and the sleepy main street has cafes, craft shops and a great pub. Activities in the surrounding area include biking, hiking, canoeing and camping. See www.kangaroovalleytourist.asn.au for operators and B&B accommodation.
Nowra
Pop 9257
Nowra, around 17km from the coast, is the largest town in the Shoalhaven area. Although there are prettier beach towns, it can be a handy regional base for Berry, 17km northeast, or the beaches of Jervis Bay, 25km southeast.
1Sights & Activities
The visitor centre can advise on local walks. Ben’s Walk starts at the bridge near Scenic Dr and follows the south bank of the Shoalhaven River. North of the river, the circular 5.5km Bomaderry Creek Walking Track runs through sandstone gorges.
Shoalhaven ZooWILDLIFE RESERVE
(%02-4421 3949; http://shoalhavenzoo.com.au; Rock Hill Rd, North Nowra; adult/child/family $22/12/58; h9am-5pm)
Meet native animals at this 6.5-hectare park on the north bank of the Shoalhaven River. It also has a camp site (adult/child from $10/6).
Shoalhaven River CruisesCRUISE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0429 981 007; www.shoalhavenrivercruise.com; 2-/3hr cruise $29/49)
Interesting cruises leave from the wharf just east of the bridge.
WORTH A TRIP
DAY TRIPS FROM NOWRA
East of Nowra, the Shoalhaven River meanders through estuaries and wetlands to good surf at Crookhaven Heads, aka 'Crooky'. Greenwell Point, about 15km east of Nowra, specialises in fresh oysters.
On the estuary's north side are Shoalhaven Heads and the Seven Mile Beach National Park stretching up to Gerroa.
Just before Shoalhaven Heads, Coolangatta is the site of the earliest European settlement on NSW’s South Coast. Coolangatta Estate (%02-4448 7131; www.coolangattaestate.com.au; r from $140; hwinery 10am-5pm) offers a golf course, winery and restaurant, and accommodation in convict-built lodgings.
4Sleeping & Eating
WhitehouseGUESTHOUSE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-4421 2084; www.whitehouseguesthouse.com; 30 Junction St; r $104-168; W)
A friendly family runs this beautifully restored guesthouse with a wide verandah and comfortable en suite rooms.
George Bass Motor InnMOTEL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-4421 6388; www.georgebass.com.au; 65 Bridge Rd; r from $124; aW)
An unpretentious but well-appointed single-storey motor inn, the George Bass has clean and sunny rooms.
Deli on KinghorneCAFE
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.thedeli.net.au; 84 Kinghorne St; meals $5-15; h6.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat & Sun)
The best coffee in town, hearty breakfasts and lunches, and lots of sunny outdoor seating.
Wharf RdMODERN AUSTRALIAN
(%02-4422 6651; www.wharfrd.com.au; 10 Wharf Rd; small/large plates $16/32 ; hnoon-late Tue-Sat, 11.30am-3pm Sun)
Right on the river, Wharf Rd is Nowra's most cosmopolitan dining experience. Shared plates include alpaca sirloin, blue-eye trevalla with chilli, or avocado and squid tacos. Check the website for weekday lunch specials.
6Drinking
Hop Dog BeerworksCRAFT BEER
(www.hopdog.com.au; Unit 2, 175 Princes Hwy; htastings & sales 10am-4pm Wed-Thu, to 5pm Fri, to 3pm Sat)
In an industrial estate south of town, Hop Dog's uber-hoppy brews include a Belgian IPA and an India Black Ale. Bottles and growlers are available to take away.
8Information
NPWS OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-4423 2170; www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au; 55 Graham St)
National parks information.
Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-4421 0778; www.shoalhaven.nsw.gov.au; cnr Princes Hwy & Pleasant Way)
Across the bridge north of town.
8Getting There & Away
Premier (%13 34 10; www.premierms.com.au) has buses to Sydney ($25, three hours) via Berry ($18, 20 minutes), and Eden ($57, five hours) via Ulladulla ($19, one hour).
CityRail (%13 15 00; www.sydneytrains.info) trains run from Sydney's Central or Bondi Junction stations to Kiama, from where there are connections to Nowra (Bomaderry).
Jervis Bay
This large, sheltered bay combines snow-white sand, crystalline waters, national parks and frolicking dolphins. Seasonal visitors include Sydney holidaymakers (summer and most weekends), and migrating whales (May to November).
In 1995 the Aboriginal community won a land claim in the Wreck Bay area and now jointly administers Booderee National Park at the southern end of the bay. By a strange quirk this area is actually part of the Australian Capital Territory, not NSW.
Most development is around Huskisson and Vincentia, and the northern shore has less tourist infrastructure. Beecroft Peninsula forms the northeastern side of Jervis Bay, ending in the dramatic sheer cliffs of Point Perpendicular. Most of the peninsula is navy land but is usually open to the public.
1Sights & Activities
Huskisson is the centre for most activities. South of Huskisson, the sand of Hyams Beach is reputedly the world's whitest.
Jervis Bay National ParkNATIONAL PARK
(www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au)
Reaching Callala Bay, you transit Jervis Bay National Park, 4854 hectares of low scrub and woodland. The bay is a marine park.
Lady Denman Heritage ComplexMUSEUM
(%02-4441 5675; www.ladydenman.asn.au; Dent St; adult/child $10/5; h10am-4pm)
With a historic collection, the 1912 Lady Denman ferry and Timbery’s Aboriginal Arts & Crafts gallery and shop. There's a growers' market on the first Saturday of the month, and a visitor information centre.
Dive Jervis BayDIVING, SNORKELLING
(%02-4441 5255; www.divejervisbay.com; 64 Owen St)
The marine park is popular with divers and snorkellers who can visit a nearby seal colony (May to October).
Jervis Bay KayaksKAYAKING
(%02-4441 7157; www.jervisbaykayaks.com; 13 Hawke St; kayak hire 3hr/day $49/69, tours $55-165)
Rentals, guided sea-kayaking trips, and self-guided camping and kayaking expeditions.
Huskisson Sea PoolSWIMMING
(h6am-8pm Fri-Wed Nov-Apr)F
Saltwater and almost Olympic-sized.
Hire Au Go-GoCYCLING
(%02-4441 5241; http://hireaugogo.com; 1 Tomerong St; 1hr/day $19/60)
Explore the water’s edge on an electric bike.
Dolphin Watch CruisesBOAT TOUR
(%02-4441 6311; www.dolphinwatch.com.au; 50 Owen St; hdolphin-/whale-/seal-watching tour $35/65/80)
Dolphin-, seal- and whale-watching trips.
DON'T MISS
BOODEREE NATIONAL PARK
Booderee National ParkNATIONAL PARK
(%02-4443 0977; www.booderee.gov.au; 2-day car or motorcycle entry $11)
Occupying Jervis Bay’s southeastern spit, this sublime national park offers good swimming, surfing and diving on both bay and ocean beaches. Much of it is heathland, with some forest, including small pockets of rainforest.
Surfing is good at Caves Beach and Pipeline.
Walking-trail maps and camping information are available at the visitor centre (%02-4443 0977; www.booderee.gov.au; h9am-4pm). While walking, look out for 206 species of bird, 27 species of land mammal and 23 species of reptile.
Booderee Botanic Gardens (h8.30am-4pm) within the national park features enormous rhododendrons and coastal plants once used for food and medicine by local Indigenous groups.
There's camping at Green Patch (camp sites $12-22) and Bristol Point (camp sites $12-22), and the secluded Caves Beach (camp sites $12-22). Book online through the visitor centre at peak times.
4Sleeping
Prices increase on weekends. Hyams Beach offers private rentals with Hyams Beach Real Estate (%02-4443 0242; www.hyamsbeachre.com.au; 76 Cyrus St).
Huskisson Beach Tourist ResortCAMPGROUND
(%02-4441 5142; www.holidayhaven.com.au; Beach St; sites per 2 people $40-85, cabins $105-205; s)
Flash cabins and a beachfront location.
Jervis Bay MotelMOTEL
(%02-4441 5781; www.jervisbaymotel.com.au; 41 Owen St; r $119-189; as)
Pleasant decor and lovely views from the (more expensive) upstairs rooms.
Huskisson B&BB&B
(%02-4441 7551; www.huskissonbnb.com.au; 12 Tomerong St; r $225; aW)
Bright, airy and colourful rooms containing comfy beds and fluffy towels.
oPaperbark CampCAMPGROUND
(%1300 668 167; www.paperbarkcamp.com.au; 571 Woollamia Rd; d from $395; hSep-Jun)
Camp in ecofriendly style in 12 luxurious solar-powered safari tents with en suites and wraparound decks. It’s set in dense bush 3.5km from Huskisson; borrow kayaks to paddle up the creek to the bay.
5Eating
SupplyCAFE
(%02-4441 5815; www.supplyjervisbay.com.au; Shop 1, 54 Owen St; mains $12-18; h7.30am-5pm Mon-Sat, to 3pm Sun)
Huskisson's best coffee and satisfying breakfasts feature at this cafe and deli.
Wild GingerASIAN
(%02-4441 5577; www.wild-ginger.com.au; 42 Owen St; mains $31.50; h4.30pm-late Tue-Sun)
A relaxed showcase of flavours from across Southeast Asia and Japan. Look forward to tasty local seafood.
Gunyah RestaurantMODERN AUSTRALIAN
(%02-4441 7299; 3-course meals $70; h6.30-9pm Sep-Jun)
Sit under the canopy on the forested balcony of this acclaimed restaurant at Paperbark Camp. The focus is on local ingredients, and booking is essential for outside guests.
6Drinking & Entertainment
HuskissonPUB
(%02-4441 5001; www.thehuskisson.com.au; Owen St)
Fabulous bay views and excellent food see the outside deck here packed over summer. There’s live music most weekends. Recently refurbished and stylish rooms (from $150) are decent value.
8Getting There & Around
Jervis Bay TerritoryBUS
(%02-4423 5244)
Buses from Huskisson to Nowra.
Ulladulla
Pop 12,137
This fishing-focused town celebrates Easter's Blessing of the Fleet ceremony, and there are beautiful beaches nearby.
1Sights & Activities
Coomee Nulunga Cultural TrailWALKING
This 700m walking trail begins near Lighthouse Oval (take Deering St east of the highway) and follows a path from the headland through native bush to the beach.
Beaches
North of the centre, gorgeous Mollymook stretches for over 2km. Adjacent Narrawallee Beach ends at a pretty kayak-friendly inlet. Both have beach breaks, although serious surfers head to Collers Beach.
4Sleeping
Ulladulla Headland Tourist ParkCAMPGROUND
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-4455 2457; www.holidayhaven.com.au; South St; camp site $26-45, cabin $95-210; Ws)
This headland property has a leafy setting with ocean views. Facilities are well kept.
Ulladulla LodgeHOSTEL
(%02-4454 0500; www.ulladullalodge.com.au; 63 Pacific Hwy; dm/d from $35/80)
This guesthouse-style place is clean and comfy and guests have access to bikes, surfboards and bodyboards.
BannistersHOTEL
(%02-4455 3044; www.bannisters.com.au; 191 Mitchell Pde, Mollymook; r $295-400, ste $470-1475; aiWs)
The bones of this 1970s concrete-block motel provide the basis of this hip, unassumingly luxurious place. Splash to the lip of the infinity pool for sublime views up the coast, or enjoy them from your balcony.
5Eating
Hayden’s PiesBAKERY
(%03-4455 7798; 166 Princes Hwy; pies $4-7; h7am-5pm)
With traditional and gourmet pies, this little bakery is awash with crusty goodness and delicious aromas.
oTallwoodMODERN AUSTRALIAN, CAFE
(%02-4455 5192; www.tallwoodeat.com.au; 2/85 Tallwood Ave, Mollymook; breakfast $9-24, dinner $20-36; h7.30am-late Wed-Sun; v)
Tallwood kicks off the day with excellent coffee and delicious breakfasts like ricotta hotcakes, before segueing into more innovative dishes at lunch and dinner. Highlights to be enjoyed in the colourful and modern surroundings include Portuguese fish cakes with saffron mayo, Balinese-spiced duck, and dukkah-spiced eggplant. There are good vegetarian options, and Australian craft beers and wines are proudly featured.
Ulladulla Oyster BarSEAFOOD
(www.ulladullaoysterbar.com.au; Shop 5, The Plaza, 107 Princes Hwy; oysters & tapas $10-20; h10am-8pm Tue-Wed, to 10pm Thu-Sat)
Sydney rock oysters are served natural – try the lime and wasabi version – or grilled with ginger, soy and mirin. Wash them down with Hop Dog craft beer from Nowra or local wine.
Cupitt's Winery & RestaurantMODERN AUSTRALIAN
(%02-4455 7888; www.cupitt.com.au; 60 Washburton Rd; mains $32-37; hnoon-2.30pm Wed-Sun & 6-8.30pm Fri & Sat)
Enjoy respected cuisine and wine tasting in this restored 1851 creamery. There’s boutique vineyard accommodation (one/two nights $330/550) and plans for a new craft brewery.
Bannisters RestaurantSEAFOOD
(%02-4455 3044; www.bannisters.com.au; 191 Mitchell Pde, Mollymook; breakfast $15, dinner mains $30-50; h8-11am & 6pm-late)
Elegantly situated on Bannister’s Point, 1km north of town. Famed UK chef Rick Stein’s seafood fare matches the fine views.
8Information
Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(%02-4444 8819; www.shoalhavenholidays.com.au; Princes Hwy; h9am-5pm)
Bookings and information.
8Getting There & Away
Premier (%13 34 10; www.premierms.com.au) runs between Sydney ($35, five hours) and Eden ($50, four hours), via Batemans Bay ($16, 45 minutes) and Nowra ($19, one hour).
Murramarang National Park
Murramarang National ParkNATIONAL PARK
(www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au; per car per day $7)
This beautiful 12,386-hectare coastal park is home to wild kangaroos, rich birdlife and the protected Murramarang Aboriginal Area, which contains ancient middens and indigenous cultural treasures.
Wasp Head, Depot, Pebbly and Merry Beaches are popular with surfers. Walking trails snake off from these beaches, and a steep but enjoyable walk is up Durras Mountain (283m).
4Sleeping
NPWS has camp sites (www.environment.nsw.gov.au/NationalParks/; powered/unpowered sites $28/20) at Depot Beach (%02-4478 6582), Pebbly Beach (%02-4478 6023) and Pretty Beach (%02-4457 2019). Book ahead during school holidays. Also available are self-contained cabins (forest/beach from $115/140) at Depot Beach and Pretty Beach.
Durras Lake North Holiday ParkCAMPGROUND
(%02-4478 6072; www.durrasnorthpark.com.au; 57 Durras Rd, Durras North; camp sites per 2 people $35-85, cabins $90-120)
Shaded camp sites, cute cabins and it's very popular with kangaroos.
EcoPoint Murramarang ResortCAMPGROUND
(%02-4478 6355; www.murramarangresort.com.au; Mill Beach, Banyandah St, South Durras; camp sites per 2 people $30-51, villas $149-253; s)
A favourite hang-out of the marsupial mob, this big, modern place has Norfolk pines dividing it from the beach. Posh extras include en suite camp sites and cabins with spa tubs.
8Getting There & Away
The Princes Hwy forms the park’s western edge, but it’s 10km from the beaches. Many of the roads are pretty rough, but those to Durras, Durras Lake, Depot Beach and Durras North are all sealed, as is Mt Agony Rd to Pebbly Beach (but not Pebbly Beach Rd).
Eurobodalla Coast
Meaning ‘Land of Many Waters’, this southern coastline celebrates all things blue. Swathes of green also punctuate the area's sprawling Eurobodalla National Park.
Townships, lakes and inlets backed by spotted-gum forests rich in native wildlife all feature, and the area is part of the homelands of the Yuin people and includes their sacred mountain, Gulaga.
Batemans Bay
Pop 11,334
Good beaches and a sparkling estuary make this fishing port one of the South Coast's most popular holiday centres.
1Sights
Beaches
Closest to town is Corrigans Beach, and longer beaches north of the bridge lead into Murramarang National Park. Surfers flock to Pink Rocks, Surf Beach, Malua Bay, McKenzies Beach and Bengello Beach. Broulee has a wide crescent of sand, but there’s a strong rip at the northern end.
2Activities
Merinda CruisesCRUISE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-4472 4052; Boatshed, Clyde St; 3hr cruise adult/child $30/15; h11.30am)
Cruises up the Clyde River Estuary from the ferry wharf just east of the bridge.
Region XKAYAKING
(%0400 184 034; http://regionx.com.au; kayak rental 1hr $30, tours $50-90)
Rent a kayak to explore nearby waterways or take a paddling tour.
Bay & BeyondKAYAKING
(%02-4478 7777; www.bayandbeyond.com.au; kayak tours per person $60-120)
Guided kayak trips along the coast and into nearby estuaries.
Broulee Surf SchoolSURFING
(%02-4471 7370; www.brouleesurfschool.com.au; adult/child from $45/40)
Learn to surf at nearby Broulee.
Soulrider Surf SchoolSURFING
(%02-4478 6297; www.soulrider.com.au; 1hr adult/child $45/40)
At various locations along the coast.
Surf the Bay Surf SchoolSURFING
(%0432 144 220; www.surfthebay.com.au; group/private lesson $40/90)
Surfing and paddleboarding school.
Total Eco AdventuresWATER SPORTS
(%02-4471 6969; www.totalecoadventures.com.au; 7/77 Coronation Dr, Broulee)
Kayaking, snorkelling, stand-up paddling and surfing.
4Sleeping
Accommodation rates increase in summer. Bay River Houseboats ( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-4472 5649; www.bayriverhouseboats.com.au; Wray St; 4 nights from $840) and Clyde River Houseboats ( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-4472 6369; www.clyderiverhouseboats.com.au; 3 nights $700-1350) lease six-/10-berth boats.
Shady Willow Holiday ParkHOSTEL, CAMPGROUND
(%02-4472 6111; www.shadywillows.com.au; cnr South St & Old Princes Hwy; powered sites $26, dm/d $28/58, cabins from $71; aWs)
Set amid shady palms near town, this YHA has a rather boho ambience. Doubles sleep in a caravan and a cabin accommodates groups of four.
Clyde River Motor InnMOTEL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-4472 6444; www.clydemotel.com.au; 3 Clyde St; r/apt from $110/145, townhouses from $179; aWs)
Rooms are centrally located at this very comfortable motel, and at another location there are spacious townhouses and three-bedroom apartments.
Lincoln DownsHOTEL
(%1800 789 250; www.lincolndowns.com.au; Princes Hwy; r from $149; aWs)
Excellent motel-style rooms, many of which overlook a private lake. There's also a resident peacock.
5Eating
Innes BoatshedFISH & CHIPS
(1 Clyde St; fish & chips $14, 6 oysters $9; h9am-2.30pm Sun-Thu, to 8pm Fri & Sat)
Since the 1950s, this has been one of the South Coast's best-loved fish-and-chip and oyster joints. Head out to the spacious deck but mind the pelicans. Cash only.
Little Restaurant & BarBISTRO
(1 Orient St; mains $27; h5-10pm Tue-Sat)
Look for the bright-orange exterior of this bustling combo of bar and restaurant. Seafood and steaks are the stars – try the seared scallops – and it's all well-priced and good value.
On the PierSEAFOOD
(%02-4472 6405; www.onthepier.com.au; 2 Old Punt Rd; mains $30-34; h9-11am, noon-2pm & 6-10pm Sun, 6-10pm Mon & Thu, noon-2pm & 6-10pm Fri & Sat)
Batemans Bay's most celebrated restaurant, with dishes such as crispy-skin pork belly and grilled scallops. The seafood platter ($69 per person) is excellent.
6Drinking & Entertainment
Bayview HotelPUB
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-4472 4522; www.bayviewhotel.com.au; 20 Orient St; h10am-midnight)
Cold brews, live bands, DJs and trivia nights.
8Information
Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(%1800 802 528; www.eurobodalla.com.au; Princes Hwy; h9am-5pm)
Covering town and the wider Eurobodalla area.
8Getting There & Away
The scenic Kings Hwy climbs the escarpment and heads to Canberra from just north of Batemans Bay.
MurraysBUS
(%13 22 51; www.murrays.com.au)
Buses to Canberra ($36.60, 2½ hours), Moruya ($13.30, one hour) and Narooma ($20.50, two hours).
PremierBUS
(%13 34 10; www.premierms.com.au)
Buses to Sydney ($45, six hours) and Eden ($46, three hours) via Ulladulla ($16, 45 minutes) and Moruya ($11, 30 minutes).
Mogo
Pop 263
Mogo is a historic strip of wooden houses with cafes and souvenir shops.
The nearby Gold Rush Colony (%02-4474 2123; www.goldrushcolony.com.au; 26 James St; adult/child $20/12; h10am-5pm) is a rambling re-creation of a pioneer village, complete with free gold panning and miners’ cabins (www.goldrushcolony.com.au; dm/d $26/130; s) for accommodation.
Mogo Zoo (%02-4474 4855; www.mogozoo.com.au; 222 Tomakin Rd; adult/child $29.50/16; h9am-5pm), 2km east off the highway, is a small but interesting zoo with rare white lions and an enthralling troop of gorillas.
Moruya
Pop 2531
Moruya (black swan) has Victorian buildings gathered around a broad river. There’s a popular Saturday market (www.moruyacountrymarkets.com.au; h7.30am-12.30pm) and the best place to stay is the Post & Telegraph B&B (%02-4474 5745; www.southcoast.com.au/postandtel; cnr Page & Campbell Sts; s/d $125/150).
River (%02-4474 5505; www.therivermoruya.com.au; 16b Church St; mains $30-36; hnoon-2.30pm Wed-Sun, 6-9.30pm Wed-Sat; a) combines local and seasonal ingredients with international flavours. Book ahead.
Moruya Airport (%02-4474 2095; George Bass Dr) is 7km from town, near North Head. Rex (%13 17 13; www.rex.com.au) flies from Merimbula and Sydney. Murrays (%13 22 51; www.murrays.com.au) buses head to Canberra ($40, 3½ hours) and Sydney ($34.70, nine hours).
Narooma
Pop 2409
At the mouth of a tree-lined inlet and flanked by surf beaches, Narooma is a pretty seaside town. This is also the jumping-off point for Montague Island, a very rewarding offshore excursion.
1Sights
oMontague Island (Baranguba)NATURE RESERVE
Nine kilometres offshore from Narooma, this small, pest-free island is home to seabirds and fur seals. Little penguins nest here, especially from September to February.
Three-hour guided tours (%1800 240 003; www.montagueisland.com.au; per person $120-155) conducted by NPWS rangers are dependent on numbers and weather conditions, so book ahead through the visitor centre. Take the afternoon tour for a better chance of seeing penguins.
You can stay in renovated lighthouse keepers’ cottages (www.conservationvolunteers.com.au/project/info?projectId=52086; 2 nights s/d from per person $720/595) if you also sign up for conservation work. Meals are included, but you’ll be expected to help with the preparation. Rates are slightly cheaper out of whale season. Book well ahead.
Bar Rock LookoutVIEWPOINT
( GOOGLE MAP )
Walk from Riverside Dr along the inlet to the ocean. Just below the lookout is Australia Rock ( GOOGLE MAP ), a boulder that vaguely resembles a certain country.
Beaches
The best place for swimming is over the bridge in the netted swimming area at the south end of Bar Beach. There’s a surf club at Narooma Beach, but better surf at Bar Beach when a southeasterly blows.
2Activities
Island Charters NaroomaDIVING, SNORKELLING
(%02-4476 1047; www.islandchartersnarooma.com; Bluewater Dr; diving from $95, snorkelling from $75)
Offers diving, snorkelling and whale-watching. Local attractions include grey nurse sharks, fur seals and the wreck of the SS Lady Darling. For the cheapest deal, book at the visitor centre.
Wagonga PrincessCRUISE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-4476 2665; www.wagongainletcruises.com; adult/child $35/25; h1pm Sun, Wed & Fri Feb-Dec, daily Jan)
Three-hour cruise up the Wagonga inlet on a heritage ferry.
zFestivals & Events
Oyster FestivalFOOD
(hMay)
A shucking good time.
Great Southern Blues FestivalMUSIC
(www.bluesfestival.tv; hOctober)
Local and international performers.
4Sleeping
Narooma YHAHOSTEL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-4476 3287; www.yha.com.au; 243 Princes Hwy; dm/d from $26/70; i)
This friendly establishment has compact doubles and clean dorms, all with en suite bathrooms. Laid-back garden areas and free bikes and bodyboards seal the deal.
Easts Narooma Shores Holiday ParkCAMPGROUND
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-4476 2046; www.eastsnarooma.com.au; Princes Hwy; sites $44, cabins $95-185; aiWs)
This well-maintained and friendly spot by the inlet has a big pool and palm trees.
Whale Motor InnMOTEL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-4476 2411; www.whalemotorinn.com; 104 Wagonga St; d $168-210; aWs)
Spot whales from your balcony (binoculars are available) at this motel with great views and nicely renovated rooms.
Horizon Holiday ApartmentsAPARTMENT
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-4476 5200; www.horizonapartmentsnarooma.com.au; 147 Princes Hwy; apt from $129)
These modern apartments are well priced and some have partial ocean views.
5Eating
Quarterdeck MarinaSEAFOOD
( GOOGLE MAP ; 13 Riverside Dr; mains $13-28; h8am-4pm Thu-Mon)
Enjoy excellent breakfasts and seafood lunches under the gaze of dozens of tikis and autographed photos of 1950s TV stars. Great inlet views, too, and occasional live music. Try the tasty Mexican corn cakes for brunch.
InletFISH & CHIPS
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/theinletnarooma; Riverside Dr; mains $18-26; h11.30am-2.30pm Tue-Sun, 5-10pm Tue-Sat)
Formerly Taylor's Seafood, and now gussied up as the Inlet. Don't worry: the fresh seafood, fish and chips, and glorious inlet views are all intact.
Whale RestaurantMODERN AUSTRALIAN
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-4476 2411; www.whalemotorinn.com; 104 Wagonga St; mains $29-36; h6-9pm Tue-Sat)
Treat yourself to flathead, eye-fillet steak or rack of lamb while enjoying views of the coast. BYO wine.
8Information
NPWS OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-4476 0800; www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au; cnr Graham & Burrawang Sts)
Information for Deua, Gulaga and Wadbilliga national parks.
Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %1800 240 003, 02-4476 2881; www.eurobodalla.com.au; Princes Hwy; h9am-5pm)
Includes a small museum.
8Getting There & Away
MurraysBUS
(%13 22 51; www.murrays.com.au)
Buses to Moruya ($14.50, one hour), Batemans Bay ($20.50, two hours) and Canberra ($47.40, 4½ hours).
PremierBUS
(%13 34 10; www.premierms.com.au)
Buses to Eden ($41, 2½ hours) and Sydney ($58, seven hours) via Wollongong ($56, five hours).
Tilba Tilba & Central Tilba
Pop 391
The coastal road from Bermagui rejoins the Princes Hwy just before the loop road to these National Trust villages in the shadow of Gulaga.
Tilba Tilba is half the size of its singularly named neighbour, 2km down the road.
Central Tilba has remained virtually unchanged since it was a 19th-century gold-mining boomtown. Cafes and craft shops fill the heritage buildings along Bate St. Behind the pub, walk up to the water tower for terrific views of Gulaga. There’s information and maps at Bates Emporium (Bate St; h8am-5pm; W).
1Sights & Activities
Tilba Valley WinesWINERY
(%02-4473 7308; www.tilbavalleywines.com; 947 Old Hwy; h10am-5pm Oct-Apr, 11am-4pm Wed-Sun May-Jul & Sep)
On the shores of Corunna Lake.
ABC Cheese FactoryDAIRY FACTORY
(www.southcoastcheese.com.au; h9am-5pm)
Excellent cheeses and a good cafe.
zFestivals & Events
Cobargo Folk FestivalMUSIC
(www.cobargofolkfestival.com; hlate Feb)
In historic Cobargo, 20km south towards Bega.
Tilba Easter FestivalART
(http://www.tilba.com.au/tilbafestival.html; hEaster)
Music and entertainment.
4Sleeping
See www.tilba.com.au.
Green GablesB&B
(%02-4473 7435; www.greengables.com.au; 269 Corkhill Dr; r from $170)
This 1879 cottage offers three attractive rooms with rural views.
Bryn at TilbaB&B
(www.thebrynattilba.com.au; 91 Punkalla-Tilba Rd; r $180-220)
Beautiful rooms with dark wood and white linen.
8Getting There & Away
PremierBUS
(%13 34 10; www.premierms.com.au)
Buses to Sydney ($59, eight hours) via Narooma ($8, 25 minutes), and Eden ($36, two hours) via Merimbula ($28, 90 minutes).
Sapphire Coast
Not to be outdone by Queensland’s Gold Coast, the southernmost part of NSW considers itself precious too. Take virtually any road east of the Princes Hwy for mainly unblemished coast set amid rugged spectacular surroundings.
Bermagui
Pop 1473
South of bird-filled Wallaga Lake, Bermagui (Bermie) is a laid-back fishing port with fisherfolk, surfers, alternative lifestylers and Indigenous Australians.
The town's flash Fishermen’s Wharf (Lamont St) complex was designed by renowned architect and Bermagui resident Philip Cox.
1Sights & Activities
Local walks include a 6km trail north along the coast to Camel Rock and a further 2km to Wallaga Lake. The route follows Haywards Beach, a good surfing spot.
There's also good surfing at Camel Rock and Cuttagee, and Shelly Beach is safe for kids. Around 1km round the point is Blue Pool, a cliff-side ocean pool.
4Sleeping
For holiday rentals, see Julie Rutherford Real Estate (%02-6493 3444; www.julierutherford.com.au).
Zane Grey ParkCAMPGROUND
(Bermagui Tourist Park; %02-6493 4382; www.zanegreytouristpark.com.au; Lamont St; powered/unpowered sites $39/28, cabins $100-286)
From its prime position on Dickson’s Point, you could throw a frisbee into Horseshoe Bay.
Bermagui Beach HotelHOTEL
(%02-6493 4206; www.bermaguibeachhotel.com.au; 10 Lamont St; dm from $35, d/ste from $100/120; a)
This gorgeous 1895 pub has nine suites, four of them with balcony views towards the beach and Gulaga. Cheaper motel rooms and dorms are good value.
Bermagui Motor InnMOTEL
(%02-6493 4311; www.bermaguimotorinn.com.au; 38 Lamont St; s/d $110/125; a)
This centrally located motel has flash new decor, comfy beds and friendly owners.
5Eating & Drinking
Bluewave SeafoodsFISH & CHIPS
(www.bluewaveseafood.com.au; Fishermen's Wharf; fish & chips $15; h10am-8pm)
Overlooking the marina, this smart takeaway joint is the reincarnation of the original fishermen’s co-op. Watch the pesky seagulls!
Bermagui Oyster RoomSEAFOOD
(1/14 Lamont St; oysters 4/8/12 from $8/14/20, tapas $6-12; h10am-6pm Wed-Thu, to 9pm Fri, to 4pm Sat & Sun )S
Enjoy super-fresh, organic Wapengo Bay oysters and tasty tapas at this stylish and airy spot on Bermagui's main street.
Il PassaggioITALIAN
(%02-6493 5753; www.ilpassaggio.com.au; Fishermen's Wharf; pizzas $20, mains $27-35; hnoon-2pm Fri-Sun, 6pm-late Thu-Sun)
An authentic Italian menu includes pizza, antipasti, and linguini with prawns and chilli.
Mimosa Dry StoneMODERN AUSTRALIAN
(%02-6494 0164; www.mimosawines.com.au; 2845 Bermagui-Tathra Rd; mains $30-36, pizza $20-28; hnoon-3pm Thu-Sun)
Midway between Bermagui and Tathra, this winery has a respected restaurant. It's often booked for weddings, so phone ahead.
Horse & Camel Wine BarWINE BAR
(www.horseandcamel.com.au; Fishermen's Wharf; h3-10pm Wed-Sun)
Celebrate fishing harbour views with a vino or craft beer.
Mister JonesCAFE
(www.misterjones.com.au; 1/4 Bunga St; h7am-noon Mon-Sat)
This humble art-studio cafe would go unnoticed if it weren’t for the loyal coffee lovers sitting outside.
8Getting There & Away
PremierBUS
(%13 34 10; www.premierms.com.au)
Runs daily buses between Sydney ($60, 10 hours) and Eden ($31, 1¾ hours).
Bermagui to Merimbula
Mimosa Rocks National Park (www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au) is a wonderful 5802-hectare coastal park with dense bush, sea caves, lagoons and beachside camp sites.
Dating from 1862, Tathra Wharf (adult/child $2/free; h10am-5pm) is NSW's last remaining coastal steamship wharf. Inside is an interesting local museum and a cafe with views of Tathra's gracefully arcing bay.
The 2654-hectare Bournda National Park (www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au; per car $7) has empty surf beaches, rugged headlands and forested walking trails. Hobart Beach (%02-6495 5000; per site $20) has 63 bush camp sites.
WILDLIFE AROUND MERIMBULA
You can see whales off the coast near Merimbula from September to November, but there are other possibilities for land-based wildlife watching as well.
Kangaroos and wallabies Pambula-Merimbula Golf Course and Pambula Beach. Dusk (from 4.30pm) is the best time.
Potoroo Palace (%02-6494 9225; www.potoroopalace.com; 2372 Princes Hwy; adult/child $20/12; h10am-4pm) has echidnas, kangaroos, dingoes, koalas, potoroos and native birds. It's 9km north of Merimbula on the road to Bega.
Panboola (www.panboola.com; Pambula) incorporates walking trails through the Pambula wetlands; great for spotting water birds.
Merimbula
Pop 6873
Arrayed along a long, golden beach and an appealing inlet, Merimbula hosts both holidaymakers and retirees. In summer, this is one of the few places on the far South Coast that really gets crowded.
1Sights
Nature BoardwalkNATURE RESERVE
( GOOGLE MAP )
Follows the estuary 1.75km southwest of the causeway around mangroves, oyster farms and melaleucas. Birds, mammals and crustaceans are all visible.
Merimbula AquariumAQUARIUM
( GOOGLE MAP ; Lake St; adult/child $15/10; h10am-5pm)
With 27 tanks and an Oceanarium for sharks and other larger predators.
2Activities
Merimbula MarinaCRUISE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6495 1686; www.merimbulamarina.com; Merimbula jetty; cruises $40-69)
Whale-watching cruises from mid-August to November and other scenic and dolphin trips during the year. Also boat hire.
Coastlife AdventuresSURFING, KAYAKING
(%02-6494 1122; www.coastlife.com.au; group/private surf lessons $65/120, kayak tours from $65)
Surf and stand-up paddle lessons, marine kayak tours and kayak hire.
Cycle n’ SurfCYCLING, SURFING
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6495 2171; www.cyclensurf.com.au; 1b Marine Pde; bicycle hire per half-/full-day $30/45)
Hires out bikes, bodyboards and surfboards.
Merimbula Divers LodgeDIVING
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6495 3611; www.merimbuladiverslodge.com.au; 15 Park St; 1-/2 shore dives $69/120, equipment $55/99)
Basic instruction and snorkelling trips – good for beginners. Nearby wrecks include the Empire Gladstone, which sank in 1950.
WORTH A TRIP
BEN BOYD NATIONAL PARK
The wilderness barely pauses for breath before starting again at 10,485-hectare Ben Boyd National Park. Boyd was an entrepreneur who failed spectacularly in his efforts to build an empire around Eden in 1850. This park protects some of his follies, along with a dramatic coastline peppered with isolated beaches.
The southern section is accessed by mainly gravel roads (per vehicle $7) leading off sealed Edrom Rd, which leaves the Princes Hwy 19km south of Eden. At its southern tip, the elegant 1883 Green Cape Lightstation (%02-6495 5555; www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au; Green Cape Rd; cottage midweek/weekend from $200/280) offers awesome views. There are tours (adult/child $7/5; h3pm Thu-Mon) and a lavishly restored keepers’ cottage (sleeps six).
Eleven kilometres along Edrom Rd there’s a turn-off to the historic Davidson Whaling Station on Twofold Bay, where you can have a picnic in the rustic gardens of Loch Gaira Cottage (1896).
Further along is the turn-off for Boyd’s Tower, built in the late 1840s with Sydney sandstone. It was intended to be a lighthouse, but the government wouldn’t give Boyd permission to operate it.
The 31km Light to Light Walk links Boyd’s wannabe lighthouse to the real one at Green Cape. There are camp sites (%02-6495 5000; per site $20) along the route at Saltwater Creek and Bittangabee Bay.
The northern section of the park can be accessed from the Princes Hwy north of Eden.
4Sleeping
Self-contained apartments are let on a weekly basis. See Getaway Merimbula & Eden ( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6495 2000; www.getawaymerimbula.com.au; Promenade, Market St).
Wandarrah YHA LodgeHOSTEL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6495 3503; www.yha.com.au; 8 Marine Pde; dm/s/d/f from $28/55/69/135; i)
This clean place, with friendly owners, a good kitchen and spacious shared areas, is near the surf beach and the bus stop. Pick-ups by arrangement, or let the staff know if you’re arriving late.
Merimbula Beach Holiday ParkCAMPGROUND
(%02-6495 3381; www.merimbulabeachholidaypark.com.au; 2 Short Point Rd; camp sites $32-54, cabins & villas $110-280; Ws)
Away from the town centre but close to the surf action and vistas of Short Point Beach.
Merimbula Lakeview HotelMOTEL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6495 1202; www.merimbulalakeview.com.au; Market St; r from $99; aW)
This waterfront establishment has a good location and moderately stylish rooms. The rooms are close to the hotel's beer garden…which may be good or bad come summertime.
5Eating & Drinking
Wheelers Oyster FarmSEAFOOD
(www.wheelersoysters.com.au; 162 Arthur Kaine Dr, Pambula; mains $22-36; hshop 10am-5pm daily, restaurant noon-2.30pm daily, 6pm-late Mon-Sat)
Delicious fresh oysters – either takeaway or from the shop or enjoyed in Wheelers spectacular restaurant. The menu features oysters prepared loads of ways and other great seafood and steak dishes. Tours showcasing some people's favourite bivalve depart at 11am daily.
Waterfront CafeCAFE, SEAFOOD
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6495 7684; www.thewaterfrontcafe.net.au; Shop 1, Promenade; mains $19-30; h8am-10pm )
A great lakeside location. Good cafe fare; excellent seafood dominates the wide-ranging menu.
RitzyTAPAS
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6495 1085; 56 Market St; tapas $10-24; h4pm-midnight Mon-Sat)
This atmospheric little hidey-hole in the centre of town dishes up shared tapas plates, and has a good selection of wine and beer.
ZanzibarMODERN AUSTRALIAN
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6495 3636; http://zanzibarmerimbula.com.au; cnr Main & Market Sts; two/three/five courses $65/75/85; hnoon-2pm Thu & Fri, 6pm-late Tue-Sat)
This culinary gem prides itself on locally caught seafood and hand-picked South Coast produce. Intriguing menu options include marinated yellowfin tuna, beetroot and crème fraiche. The five-course 'Locavore' menu is a well-spent $85.
8Information
NPWS OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6495 5000; www.environment.nsw.gov.au; cnr Merimbula & Sapphire Coast Drs; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri)
Bushwalking information.
Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6495 1129; www.sapphirecoast.com.au; cnr Market & Beach Sts; h9am-5pm)
Bookings and accommodation.
8Getting There & Around
Air
Merimbula Airport (MIM; GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6495 4211; www.merimbulaairport.com.au; Arthur Kaine Dr) is 1km out of town on the road to Pambula. Rex (%13 17 13; www.rex.com.au) flies daily to Melbourne (from $165, 90 minutes), Sydney (from $165, 1¼ hours) and Moruya (from $74, 30 minutes).
Bus
Premier (%13 34 10; www.premierms.com.au) has two daily buses to Sydney ($69, 8½ hours). NSW TrainLink (%13 22 32; www.nswtrainlink.info) runs a daily bus to Canberra ($33, four hours).
Eden
Pop 3043
Eden’s a sleepy place where often the only bustle is down at the wharf when the fishing boats come in. Around the surrounding area are stirring beaches, national parks and wilderness areas.
Migrating humpback whales and southern right whales pass so close to the coast that experts consider this to be one of Australia's best whale-watching locations. Often the whales can be seen feeding or resting in Twofold Bay during their southern migration back to Antarctic waters during October and November.
1Sights & Activities
Killer Whale MuseumMUSEUM
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.killerwhalemuseum.com.au; 94 Imlay St; adult/child $9/2.50; h9.15am-3.45pm Mon-Sat, 11.15am-3.45pm Sun)
Established in 1931, the museum’s main purpose is to preserve the skeleton of Old Tom, a killer whale and local legend.
Whale LookoutVIEWPOINT
( GOOGLE MAP )
A good spot to look for whales is at the base of Bass St. When whales are spotted, the Killer Whale Museum sounds a siren.
Sapphire Coast Marine Discovery CentreAQUARIUM
(%02-6496 1699; www.sapphirecoastdiscovery.com.au; Main Wharf; adult/child $10/5; h11am-2pm Tue-Fri)
Learn about the sea at the rocky reef aquarium or take a snorkelling trip (per person $25, minimum four people).
Cat Balou CruisesCRUISE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0427 962 027; www.catbalou.com.au; Main Wharf; adult/child $75/60)
This crew operates 3½-hour whale-spotting voyages in October and November. At other times of the year, dolphins and seals can usually be seen during the two-hour bay cruise (adult/child $35/20).
Ocean WildernessKAYAKING
(%0405 529 214; www.oceanwilderness.com.au; 4-/6hr tours from $85/130)
Sea-kayaking trips through Twofold Bay and to Ben Boyd National Park, and a full-day excursion to Davidson Whaling Station.
zFestivals & Events
Whale FestivalWHALES
(www.edenwhalefestival.com.au; hNov)
Carnival, street parade and market stalls, all with a proud cetacean spin.
4Sleeping
Eden Tourist ParkCAMPGROUND
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6496 1139; www.edentouristpark.com.au; Aslings Beach Rd; unpowered/powered sites $28/34, cabins & units $85-130)
Situated on the spit separating Aslings Beach from Lake Curalo, this park echoes with birdsong from sheltering trees.
Twofold Bay Motor InnMOTEL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6496 3111; www.twofoldbaymotorinn.com.au; 164-166 Imlay St; r $130-175; aWs)
Substantial rooms, some with water views, are the norm at this centrally located motel. There’s also a tiny indoor pool.
Seahorse InnBOUTIQUE HOTEL
(%02-6496 1361; www.seahorseinnhotel.com.au; Boydtown; d $175-349; aW)
At Boydtown, 6km south of Eden, the Seahorse Inn overlooks Twofold Bay. It's a lavish boutique hotel with all the trimmings, and there's a good restaurant and garden bar open to nonguests.
5Eating
SproutCAFE
(www.sprouteden.com.au; 134 Imlay St; mains $10-18; h7.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-3pm Sat & Sun; Wv)S
Lots of organic and sustainable produce, top-notch burgers and the best coffee in town.
Wharfside CaféCAFE
(Main Wharf; mains $15-28; h8am-3pm daily, 6-10pm Fri & Sat)
Decent breakfasts, strong coffee and harbour views make this a good way to start the day. Try the Asian prawn salad with a glass of wine for lunch, or ask if local oysters and mussels are available. The Main Wharf is downhill from town.
8Information
Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6496 1953; www.visiteden.com.au; Mitchell St; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun)
Bookings and information.
8Getting There & Away
Premier (%13 34 10; www.premierms.com.au) runs north to Wollongong ($69, eight hours) and Sydney ($71, nine hours). NSW TrainLink (%13 22 32; www.nswtrainlink.info) runs a daily bus service to Canberra ($35, 4½ hours). For Melbourne, V/Line runs a bus and train combination ($46, nine hours) via Bairnsdale.