Fraser Island & the Fraser Coast

Fraser Island & the Fraser Coast

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Why Go?

Nature lovers, rejoice! World Heritage–listed Fraser Island is the world’s largest sand island, a mystical, at times eerie, land of giant dunes, ancient rainforests, luminous lakes and wildlife including Australia’s purest strain of dingo. It's truly unlike any other place on earth. Across the waters of the Great Sandy Strait, the mellow coastal community of Hervey Bay is the gateway to Fraser Island. From July to October, migrating humpback whales stream into the bay before continuing on to Antarctica. Further south, tiny Rainbow Beach is a laid-back seaside village and an alternative launching pad to Fraser. Fishing, swimming, boating and camping are hugely popular along this stretch of coastline.

Inland, agricultural fields surround old-fashioned country towns steeped in history. Bundaberg, the largest city in the region, overlooks the sea of cane fields that fuels its eponymous rum, a fiery spirit guaranteed to scramble a few brain cells.

When to Go

bundaberg-ccjpg

AJun–Jul Bring your brolly to Maryborough's Mary Poppins Festival.

AJul–Nov Look out for humpback whales – optimal sighting time is August to October.

ANov–Mar Spy on turtles laying eggs in the sand at Mon Repos.

Fraser Island & the Fraser Coast Highlights

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1 Cruising up the beach ‘highway’, hiking through the rainforest and camping under the stars on Fraser Island.

2 Watching the whales play in Hervey Bay.

3 Cooling off in the pristine, electric-blue water of the white-sand-fringed freshwater Lake McKenzie on Fraser Island.

4 Witnessing turtles take their first flipper-stumble down the beach at Mon Repos.

5 Diving with sharks at Wolf Rock off Rainbow Beach.

6 Gazing over the rainbow cliffs from atop the Carlo Sandblow at Rainbow Beach.

7 Sampling ‘liquid gold’ at the rum distillery in Bundaberg.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Qantas (icon-phonegif%13 13 13; www.qantas.com.au) and Virgin (icon-phonegif%13 67 89; www.virginaustralia.com.au) fly to Bundaberg and Hervey Bay.

Bus

Greyhound (icon-phonegif%1300 473 946; www.greyhound.com.au) and Premier Motor Service (icon-phonegif%13 34 10; www.premierms.com.au) both have regular coach services along the Bruce Hwy (A1) with stops at all the major towns. They also detour off the highway to Hervey Bay and Rainbow Beach.

Train

Queensland RailTRAIN

(icon-phonegif%1800 872 467; www.queenslandrail.com.au)

Has frequent services between Brisbane and Rockhampton passing through the region. Choose between the high-speed Tilt Train or the more sedate Sunlander.

Fraser Coast

The Fraser Coast runs the gamut from coastal beauty, beachfront national parks and tiny seaside villages to agricultural farms and sugar-cane fields surrounding old-fashioned country towns.

Hervey Bay

Pop 76,403

Named after an English Casanova, it’s no wonder that Hervey Bay’s seductive charms are difficult to resist. Its warm subtropical climate, long sandy beaches, calm blue ocean, and a relaxed, unpretentious local community lure all sorts of travellers to its shores – from backpackers to families and retirees. Throw in the chance to see majestic humpback whales frolicking in the water and the town’s convenient access to the World Heritage–listed Fraser Island, and it’s easy to understand how Hervey Bay has become an unflashy, yet undeniably appealing, tourist hotspot.

Fraser Island shelters Hervey Bay from the ocean surf and the sea here is shallow and completely flat – perfect for kiddies and postcardy summer-holiday pics.

1Sights

Reef WorldAQUARIUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4128 9828; Pulgul St, Urangan; adult/child $18/9, shark dives $50; icon-hoursgifh9.30am-4pm)

A small aquarium stocked with some of the Great Barrier Reef’s most colourful characters, including a giant 18-year-old groper. You can also take a dip with lemon, whaler and other nonpredatory sharks.

Fraser Coast Discovery SphereMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4197 4207; www.frasercoastdiscoverysphere.com.au; 166 Old Maryborough Rd, Pialba; adult/child/family $7/5/20; icon-hoursgifh10am-4pm)

Loads of educational activities inspired by the region. Ideal for kids and curious adults.

Wetside Water Education ParkPARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.widebaywater.qld.gov.au; The Esplanade, Scarness; icon-hoursgifh10am-6pm Wed-Sun, daily during school holidays)

On hot days, this wet spot on the foreshore can't be beaten. There’s plenty of shade, fountains, tipping buckets and a boardwalk with water infotainment. Opening hours vary so check the website for updates.

2Activities

Hire paddle boards, kayaks, aqua trikes, jet skis and more with Aquavue ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4125 5528; www.aquavue.com.au; The Esplanade, Torquay) or Enzo's on the Beach ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4124 6375; www.enzosonthebeach.com.au; The Esplanade, Scarness). Rentals start around $20 per hour.

Whale Watching

Whale-watching tours operate out of Hervey Bay every day (weather permitting) during the annual migrations between late July and early November. Sightings are guaranteed from August to the end of October (with a free subsequent trip if the whales don’t show). Out of season, many boats offer dolphin-spotting tours. Boats cruise from Urangan Harbour out to Platypus Bay and then zip around from pod to pod to find the most active whales. Most vessels offer half-day tours for around $120 for adults and $70 for children, and most include lunch and/or morning or afternoon tea. Tour bookings can be made through your accommodation or the information centres.

Spirit of Hervey BayWHALE WATCHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1800 642 544; www.spiritofherveybay.com; Urangan Harbour; icon-hoursgifh8.30am & 1.30pm)

The largest vessel with the greatest number of passengers.

MV Tasman VentureWHALE WATCHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1800 620 322; www.tasmanventure.com.au; Urangan Harbour; icon-hoursgifh8.30am & 1.30pm)

One of the best, with underwater microphones and viewing windows. Sightings are guaranteed during the season; you get a free subsequent trip if the whales don't show.

Blue Dolphin Marine ToursWHALE WATCHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4124 9600; www.bluedolphintours.com.au; Urangan Harbour)

Skipper Pete has almost 30 years of marine mammal experience, making him the ideal receptacle for the many questions this up-close whale-watching trip will throw up.

A WHALE OF A TIME

Every year, from July to early November, thousands of humpback whales cruise into Hervey Bay’s sheltered waters for a few days before continuing their arduous migration south to the Antarctic. Having mated and given birth in the warmer waters off northeastern Australia, they arrive in Hervey Bay in groups of about a dozen (known as pulses), before splitting into smaller groups of two or three (pods). The new calves utilise the time to develop the thick layers of blubber necessary for survival in icy southern waters by consuming around 600L of milk daily.

Viewing these majestic creatures is simply awe-inspiring. You'll see these showy aqua-acrobats waving their pectoral fins, tail slapping, breaching or simply ‘blowing’, and many will roll up beside the whale-watching boats with one eye clear of the water…making those on board wonder who’s actually watching whom.

Other Activities

MV Fighting WhitingFISHING

(icon-phonegif%07-4124 3377; www.fightingwhiting.com.au; adult/child/family $70/35/175)

Keep your catch on these calm-water tours. Sandwiches, bait and all fishing gear included.

MV Princess IIFISHING

(icon-phonegif%07-4124 0400; adult/child $160/100)

Wet your hook with an experienced crew who've been trolling these waters for more than two decades.

Krystal KlearCRUISE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4124 0066; www.krystalkleer.com.au; Urangan Marina; 5hr tours adult/child $90/50)

Cruise on a 12m (40ft) glass-bottomed boat, the only one in Hervey Bay. Includes snorkelling, coral viewing and an island barbecue.

Fraser Coast MicrolitesSCENIC FLIGHTS

(icon-phonegif%1800 811 728; flights from $125-250)

Soar with your hair in the wind over islands and lakes on 20-, 30-, 45- and 70-minute flights. Book ahead.

Skydive Hervey BaySKYDIVING

(icon-phonegif%0458 064 703; www.skydiveherveybay.com.au)

Tandem skydives from $325 at 3660m (12,000ft), with up to 45 mouth-flapping seconds of free fall.

Susan River HomesteadHORSE RIDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4121 6846; www.susanriver.com; Hervey Bay–Maryborough Rd)

Horse-riding packages (adult/child $250/160) include accommodation, all meals and use of the on-site swimming pool and tennis courts. Day-trippers can canter off on two-hour horse rides (adult/child $85/75).

zFestivals & Events

Hervey Bay Whale FestivalCULTURAL

(www.herveybaywhalefestival.com.au; icon-hoursgifhAug)

Celebrates the return of the whales in August.

4Sleeping

Hervey Bay has heaps of great hostels. A few are clustered in Scarness on Torquay Rd – a good hunting ground if you're showing up without a reservation.

icon-top-choiceoColonial LodgeHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4125 1073; www.herveybaycoloniallodge.com.au; 94 Cypress St, Torquay; r $90-140; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

Hacienda-style, immaculate and wonderfully friendly, these self-contained one- and two-bedroom units are a steal. Hang out by the pool or walk a block to the beach.

Torquay Beachfront Tourist ParkCARAVAN PARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4125 1578; www.beachfronttouristparks.com.au; The Esplanade, Torquay; unpowered/powered sites from $26/31; icon-wifigifW)

Fronting Hervey Bay's exquisitely long sandy beach, all of Beachfront's three shady parks live up to their name, with fantastic ocean views. This Torquay site is in the heart of the action. Other branches are at Pialba ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4128 1399; www.beachfronttouristparks.com.au; The Esplanade, Pialba; unpowered/powered sites from $26/31; icon-wifigifW) and Scarness ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4128 1274; www.beachfronttouristparks.com.au; The Esplanade, Scarness; unpowered/powered sites from $26/31; icon-wifigifW).

Colonial Village YHAHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4125 1844; www.yha.com.au; 820 Boat Harbour Dr, Urangan; dm/d/cabins from $23/52/79; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

This excellent YHA is set on eight hectares of tranquil bushland, close to the marina and only 50m from the beach. It’s a lovely spot, thick with ambience, possums and parrots. Facilities include a pool, tennis and basketball courts, and a sociable bar-restaurant.

FlashpackersHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4124 1366; www.flashpackersherveybay.com; 195 Torquay Tce, Torquay; dm $25-30, d $70; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

Comfortable, spacious dorm and en suite rooms, with reading lights, numerous power sockets, walk-in communal fridge, spotless communal areas and showers with power. Set a street back from the beach.

Bay B&BB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4125 6919; www.baybedandbreakfast.com.au; 180 Cypress St, Urangan; s $100, d $125-140; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifsicon-petgif#)

This great-value B&B is run by a friendly, well-travelled Frenchman, his wife and their dog… Guest rooms are in a comfy annexe out the back, and the Bay's famous breakfast is served in a tropical garden. Families can take over the separate, fully self-contained unit.

Quarterdecks Harbour RetreatAPARTMENT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4197 0888; www.quarterdecksretreat.com.au; 80 Moolyyir St, Urangan; 1-/2-/3-bedroom villas $185/225/290; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

These excellent villas are stylishly furnished with a private courtyard, all the mod cons and little luxuries such as fluffy bathrobes. Backing onto a nature reserve, it’s quiet apart from the wonderful bird life, and is only a cooee from the beach. The accommodation and tour packages are great value.

Alexander Lakeside B&BB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4128 9448; www.herveybaybedandbreakfast.com.au; 29 Lido Pde, Urangan; r $140-150, ste $170-180; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

This warm and friendly B&B offers lakeside indulgence, where turtles come a-visiting in the morning. There’s a heated lakeside spa, two spacious rooms with en suites, and two luxury self-contained suites.

5Eating

Enzo's on the BeachCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.enzosonthebeach.com.au; 351a The Esplanade, Scarness; mains $8-20; icon-hoursgifh6.30am-5pm)

This shabby-chic beachside cafe is the place to fill up on sandwiches, wraps, salads and coffees before working it off on a hired kayak or during a kite-surfing lesson.

Bayaroma CafeCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4125 1515; 428 The Esplanade, Torquay; breakfast $10-22, mains $9.50-20; icon-hoursgifh6.30am-3.30pm)

Famous for its coffee, all-day breakfasts and people-watching pole position, Bayorama has a jam-packed menu that truly has something for everyone (even vegetarians!). Attentive, chirpy service is an added bonus.

CoastFUSION

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4125 5454; 469 The Esplanade, Torquay; mains $21-60; icon-hoursgifh5pm-late Tue & Wed, 11.30am-late Thu-Sun)

Gourmet grub for the discerning diner prepared to splurge. Fancy meat and seafood dishes get the Asian/Middle Eastern fusion touch; desserts such as the pumpkin cheesecake go beyond the realms of the superlative adjective.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Hoolihan’sPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 382 The Esplanade, Scarness; icon-hoursgifh11am-2am)

Like all good Irish pubs, Hoolihan’s is wildly popular, especially with the backpacker crowd.

ViperCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 410 The Esplanade, Torquay; icon-hoursgifh10pm-3am Wed, Fri & Sat)

This new club is a rough diamond with cranking music and an energetic crowd, especially during summer.

8Information

Hervey Bay covers a string of beachside suburbs – Point Vernon, Pialba, Scarness, Torquay and Urangan – but behind the flawless beachfront and pockets of sedate suburbia, the outskirts of town dissolve into a sprawling industrial jungle.

Hervey Bay Visitor Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1800 811 728; www.visitfrasercoast.com; cnr Urraween & Maryborough Rds)

Helpful and well-stocked with brochures and information. On the outskirts of town.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Hervey Bay airport is on Don Adams Dr, just off Booral Rd. Qantas (icon-phonegif%13 13 13; www.qantas.com.au) and Virgin (icon-phonegif%13 67 89; www.virginaustralia.com.au) have daily flights to/from destinations around Australia.

Boat

Boats to Fraser Island leave from River Heads, about 10km south of town, and from Urangan's Great Sandy Straits Marina ( GOOGLE MAP ). Most tours leave from Urangan Harbour ( GOOGLE MAP ).

Bus

Buses depart Hervey Bay Coach Terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4124 4000; Central Ave, Pialba). Greyhound (icon-phonegif%1300 473 946; www.greyhound.com.au) and Premier Motor Service (icon-phonegif%13 34 10; www.premierms.com.au) have several services daily to/from Brisbane ($71, 5½ hours), Maroochydore ($48, 3½ hours), Bundaberg ($25, 1½ hours) and Rockhampton ($88, six hours).

Tory’s ToursBUS

(icon-phonegif%07-4128 6500; www.torystours.com.au)

Has twice daily services to Brisbane airport ($75).

Wide Bay TransitBUS

(icon-phonegif%07-4121 3719; www.widebaytransit.com.au)

Has hourly services from Urangan Marina (stopping along the Esplanade) to Maryborough ($8, one hour) every weekday, with fewer services on weekends.

8Getting Around

Car

Hervey Bay is the the best place to hire a 4WD for Fraser Island.

Aussie TraxCAR RENTAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4124 4433; www.fraserisland4wd.com.au; 56 Boat Harbour Dr, Pialba)

Hervey Bay Rent A CarCAR RENTAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4194 6626; www.herveybayrentacar.com.au; 5 Cunningham St, Torquay)

Also rents out scooters ($30 per day).

Rainbow Beach

Pop 1103

Gorgeous Rainbow Beach is a tiny town at the base of the Inskip Peninsula with spectacular multicoloured sand cliffs overlooking its rolling surf and white sandy beach.The town’s friendly locals, relaxed vibe, and convenient access to Fraser Island (only 10 minutes by barge) and the Cooloola Section of the Great Sandy National Park makes it a mellow stop for outdoorsy types and beach lovers.

1Sights

The town is named for the coloured sand cliffs, which trace a 2km walk along the beach. The cliffs arc their red-hued way around Wide Bay, offering a sweeping panorama from the lighthouse at Double Island Point to Fraser Island in the north.

A 600m track through forest at the southern end of Cooloola Dr leads to the Carlo Sandblow, a spectacular 120m-tall dune high up on a cliff. You can walk out onto the dune for amazing views over the colourful cliffs and beach – do heed the signs of where to go for the sake of your own safety, and for the preservation of the dune.

2Activities

There’s a good surf break at Double Island Point.

Wolf Rock Dive CentreDIVING

(icon-phonegif%07-5486 8004, 0438 740 811; www.wolfrockdive.com.au; 20 Karoonda Rd; double dive charters from $220)

Wolf Rock, a congregation of volcanic pinnacles off Double Island Point, is regarded as one of Queensland’s best scuba-diving sites. The endangered grey nurse shark is found here year-round.

Skydive Rainbow BeachSKYDIVING

(icon-phonegif%0418 218 358; www.skydiverainbowbeach.com; 2400/4570m dives $299/429)

Soft landings on the beach.

Rainbow ParaglidingPARAGLIDING

(icon-phonegif%07-5486 3048, 0418 754 157; www.paraglidingrainbow.com; glides $180)

Exhilarating tandem flights over the colourful cliffs.

Epic Ocean AdventuresSURFING

(icon-phonegif%0408 738 192; www.epicoceanadventures.com.au; 3hr surf lessons $60, 3hr kayak tours $70)

Surf classes and dolphin-spotting sea kayak tours.

Bushwalking & Camping

The Cooloola Section of the Great Sandy National Park has a number of bushwalking tracks and camp sites, including a wonderful stretch of beach camping along Teewah Beach. Book camping and 4WD permits online.

Camping on the beach is one of the best ways to experience this part of the coast; if you don’t have camping gear Rainbow Beach Hire-a-Camp (icon-phonegif%07-5486 8633; www.rainbow-beach-hire-a-camp.com.au; tent from $30 per night, additional nights $10) can hire out equipment, set up your tent and camp site, organise camping permits and break camp for you when you’re done.

TTours

Surf & Sand SafarisDRIVING TOUR

(icon-phonegif%07-5486 3131; www.surfandsandsafaris.com.au; adult/child $75/40)

Half-day 4WD tours through the national park and along the beach to the coloured sands and lighthouse at Double Island Point.

4Sleeping

There are a handful of hostel options in Rainbow Beach and all are pretty standard. Most of the hostels are clustered together on Spectrum St, so it's easy to look in and choose your favourite. Alternatively, consider camping in the great outdoors.

Pippies Beach HouseHOSTEL

(icon-phonegif%07-5486 8503; www.pippiesbeachhouse.com.au; 22 Spectrum St; dm/d $24/65; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

With only 12 rooms, this small, relaxed hostel is the place to catch your breath between outdoor pursuits. Free breakfast, wi-fi and body boards, and lots of organised group activities, sweeten the stay.

Dingo's Backpacker's ResortHOSTEL

(icon-phonegif%1800 111 126; www.dingosresort.com; 20 Spectrum St; dm $24; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

This party hostel with bar has live music, karaoke and face-painting nights, a chill-out gazebo, free pancake breakfasts and cheap meals nightly.

Rainbow Sands Holiday UnitsMOTEL

(icon-phonegif%07-5486 3400; www.rainbowsands.com.au; 42-46 Rainbow Beach Rd; d $100, 1-bedroom apt from $115; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

Perfectly pleasing low-rise, palm-fronted complex with standard motel rooms. There are also self-contained units with full laundries for comfortable longer stays.

Rainbow Beach Holiday VillageCARAVAN PARK

(icon-phonegif%07-5486 3222; www.rainbowbeachholidayvillage.com; 13 Rainbow Beach Rd; unpowered/powered sites from $38/47, villas from $145; icon-acongifaicon-swimgifs)

Popular but pricey beachfront park.

icon-top-choiceoDebbie's PlaceB&B

(icon-phonegif%07-5486 3506; www.rainbowbeachaccommodation.com.au; 30 Kurana St; d/ste from $119/140, 3-bedroom apt from $300; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-petgif#)

Inside this beautiful timber Queenslander dripping with pot plants, the charming rooms are fully self-contained, with private entrances and verandahs. The effervescent Debbie is a mine of information and makes this a cosy home away from home.

5Eating

Self-caterers will find a supermarket on Rainbow Beach Rd. There are a few cheap cafes along this same strip.

icon-top-choiceoWaterview BistroMODERN AUSTRALIAN

(icon-phonegif%07-5486 8344; Cooloola Dr; mains $26-35; icon-hoursgifh11.30am-11.30pm Wed-Sat, to 6pm Sun)

Sunset drinks are a must at this swish restaurant with sensational views of Fraser Island from its hilltop perch. Get stuck into the signature seafood chowder, steaks and seafood, or have fun cooking your own meal over hot stones.

Arcobaleno on the BeachITALIAN

(1 Rainbow Beach Rd; pizzas $15-25; icon-hoursgifh9am-10pm)

It's actually just near the beach, and has no beach views. But the Zen-tinged, plant-filled patio, couch-laden interior and friendly staff make this a relaxing hang-out for a meal (breakfast, lunch and dinner), a good coffee any time, or an excellent Italian-style pizza.

Rainbow Beach HotelPUB FOOD

(1 Rainbow Beach Rd; mains $18-35; icon-hoursgifhfrom 11.30am)

The spruced-up pub brings to mind all things plantation, with ceiling fans, palm trees, timber floors and cane furnishings – plus the smell of beer. The restaurant serves up traditional pub grub. Scope the street scene from the upstairs balcony.

8Information

Queensland Parks & Wildlife ServiceTOURIST INFORMATION

(QPWS; Rainbow Beach Rd; icon-hoursgifh8am-4pm)

Rainbow Beach Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

(icon-phonegif%07-5486 3227; www.rainbowbeachinfo.com.au; 8 Rainbow Beach Rd; icon-hoursgifh7am-5.30pm)

Despite the posted hours, it's open sporadically.

Shell Tourist CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

(36 Rainbow Beach Rd; icon-hoursgifh6am-6pm)

At the Shell service station; arranges tour bookings and barge tickets for Fraser Island.

8Getting There & Around

Greyhound (icon-phonegif%1300 473 946; www.greyhound.com.au) has several daily services from Brisbane ($49, five hours), Noosa ($32, three hours) and Hervey Bay ($26, two hours). Premier Motor Service (icon-phonegif%13 34 10; www.premierms.com.au) has less-expensive services. Cooloola Connections (icon-phonegif%07-5481 1667; www.coolconnect.com.au) runs a shuttle bus to Rainbow Beach from Brisbane Airport ($135, three hours) and Sunshine Coast Airport ($95, two hours).

Most 4WD-hire companies will also arrange permits and barge costs (per vehicle $100 return), and hire out camping gear. Try All Trax (icon-phonegif%07-5486 8767; www.fraserisland4x4.com.au; Rainbow Beach Rd, Shell service station; per day from $165) or Rainbow Beach Adventure Centre (icon-phonegif%07-5486 3288; www.adventurecentre.com.au; 13 Spectrum Street, Rainbow Beach; per day from $180).

Maryborough

Pop 21,777

Born in 1847, Maryborough is one of Queensland’s oldest towns, and its port saw the first shaky step ashore for thousands of 19th-century free settlers looking for a better life in the new country. Heritage and history are Maryborough’s specialities; the pace of yesteryear is reflected in its beautifully restored colonial-era buildings and gracious Queenslander homes.

This charming old country town is also the birthplace of Pamela Lyndon (PL) Travers, creator of the umbrella-wielding Mary Poppins. The award-winning film Saving Mr Banks tells Travers' story, with early-1900s Maryborough in a starring role. There's a life-sized statue of Ms Poppins on the corner of Richmond and Wharf Sts.

Stroll the historic area beside the Mary River known as Portside (101 Wharf St; icon-hoursgifh10am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat & Sun) and explore its 13 heritage-listed buildings, parkland and museum. On Thursdays the town is enlivened by the Maryborough Heritage City Markets (cnr Adelaide & Ellena Sts; icon-hoursgifh8am-1.30pm Thu) – don't miss the firing of the cannon at 1pm. Free guided walking tours (icon-hoursgifh9am Mon-Sat) of town from the visitor centre at City Hall are good fun, but real Mary Poppins groupies should schedule their trips for the Mary Poppins Festival (www.marypoppinsfestival.com.au; icon-hoursgifhJun-Jul) in June/July.

4Sleeping & Eating

Eco QueenslanderBOUTIQUE HOTEL

(icon-phonegif%0438 195 443; www.ecoqueenslander.com; 15 Treasure St; per couple $140)icon-sustainableS

You won’t want to leave this lovely converted Queenslander with comfy lounge, full kitchen, laundry and a cast-iron bathtub. Sustainable features include solar power, rainwater tanks, energy-efficient lighting and bikes for you to use. Minimum two-night stay.

icon-top-choiceoPop InCAFE

(203 Bazaar St; sandwiches $8.50; icon-hoursgifh7am-3pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat)

A cheery, bright and friendly cafe that encourages lingering. On offer are great coffee, fresh juices, and home-made goodies from stuffed mushrooms to salads, full breakfasts and sandwiches.

8Information

Maryborough/Fraser Island Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1800 214 789; www.visitfrasercoast.com; Kent St; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat & Sun)

This visitor centre in the 100-year-old City Hall is extremely helpful and has free leaflets detailing comprehensive self-guided walking tours. Speak with them about inclusive tickets to Portside's museums and attractions.

8Getting There & Away

Both the Sunlander ($75, five hours) and the Tilt Train ($75, 3½ hours) connect Brisbane with Maryborough West station. The station is 7km west of the centre, and is connected via a shuttle bus.

Greyhound (icon-phonegif%1300 473 946; www.greyhound.com.au) and Premier Motor Service (icon-phonegif%13 34 10; www.premierms.com.au) have buses to Gympie ($30, one hour), Bundaberg ($40, three hours) and Brisbane ($64, 4½ hours).

Wide Bay TransitBUS

(icon-phonegif%07-4121 4070; www.widebaytransit.com.au)

Has hourly services (fewer on weekends) between Maryborough and Hervey Bay ($8, one hour), departing from outside City Hall in Kent St.

Bundaberg

Pop 69,805

Despite boasting a sublime climate, coral-fringed beaches and waving fields of sugar cane, ‘Bundy’ is still overlooked by most travellers. Hordes of backpackers flock here for fruit-picking and farm work; other visitors quickly pass through on their way to family summer holidays at the nearby seaside villages.

This is the birthplace of the famous Bundaberg Rum, a potent liquor bizarrely endorsed by a polar bear, and as iconically Australian as Tim Tams and Vegemite.

In many people’s eyes, the beach hamlets around Bundaberg are more attractive than the town itself. Some 25km north of the centre is Moore Park with wide, flat beaches. To the south is the very popular Elliott Heads with a nice beach, rocky foreshore and good fishing.

1Sights & Activities

icon-top-choiceoBundaberg Rum DistilleryDISTILLERY

(icon-phonegif%07-4131 2999; www.bundabergrum.com.au; Avenue St; self-guided tours adult/child $15/8, guided tours $25/12; icon-hoursgifh10am-3pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat & Sun)

Bundaberg’s biggest claim to fame is the iconic Bundaberg Rum: you’ll see the Bundy Rum polar bear on billboards and bumper stickers all over town. Choose from either a self-guided tour through the museum, or a guided tour of the distillery – tours depart on the hour. Both include a tasting for the over-18s. Wear closed shoes.

Bundaberg BarrelBREWERY

(icon-phonegif%07-4154 5480; www.bundaberg.com; 147 Bargara Rd; adult/child $12/5; icon-hoursgifh9am-4.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-3pm Sun)

Bundaberg's nonalcoholic ginger beer and other soft drinks aren't as famous as Bundy Rum, but they are very good. Visit the Barrel to take an audio tour of the small museum. Tastings are included and it's geared to families.

Hinkler Hall of AviationMUSEUM

(www.hinklerhallofaviation.com; Mt Perry Rd, Botanic Gardens; adult/child/family $18/10/38; icon-hoursgifh9am-4pm)

This modern museum has multimedia exhibits, a flight simulator and informative displays chronicling the life of Bundaberg’s famous son Bert Hinkler, who made the first solo flight between England and Australia in 1928.

Bundaberg Aqua ScubaDIVING

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4153 5761; www.aquascuba.com.au; 239 Bourbong St; diving courses from $349)

Leads dives to nearby sites around Innes Park.

Burnett River CruisesCRUISE

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0427 099 009; www.burnettrivercruises.com.au; School Lane, East Bundaberg; 2½hr tours adult/child $25/10)

The Bundy Belle, an old-fashioned ferry, chugs at a pleasant pace to the mouth of the Burnett River. See website or call for tour times.

TURTLE TOTS

Mon Repos (icon-phonegif%07-4153 8888; 271 Bourbong St), 15km northeast of Bundaberg, is one of Australia’s most accessible turtle rookeries. From November to late March, female loggerheads lumber laboriously up the beach to lay eggs in the sand. About eight weeks later, the hatchlings dig their way to the surface, and, under cover of darkness, emerge en masse to scurry as quickly as their little flippers allow down to the water.

The Bundaberg Visitor Centre has information on turtle conservation and organises nightly tours (adult/child $11.25/6) from 7pm during the season. Bookings are mandatory and need to be made through the visitor centre or online at www.bookbundabergregion.com.au. The Bundaberg Visitor Centre also has reports of how many turtles have been seen through the season.

4Sleeping & Eating

There are plenty of midrange motels on the Bundaberg–Childers Road into town. Bundaberg’s handful of hostels caters to working backpackers, and most can arrange harvest work.

Bigfoot BackpackersHOSTEL

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4152 3659; www.footprintsadventures.com.au; 66 Targo St; dm from $24; icon-parkgifpicon-acongifa)

Comfortable and friendly central hostel that also runs fabulous turtle tours to Mon Repos. Fresh paint, happy staff and a relaxed vibe raise Bigfoot above its competitors. There are ample fruit-picking opportunities available.

icon-top-choiceoInglebraeB&B

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4154 4003; www.inglebrae.com; 17 Branyan St; r incl breakfast $120-150; icon-acongifa)

For old-world English charm in a glorious Queenslander, this delightful B&B is just the ticket. Polished timber and stained glass seep from the entrance into the rooms, which come with high beds and small antiques.

Rosie BluDELI

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4151 0957; 90a Bourbong St; mains $9-20; icon-hoursgifh8am-4pm Mon, 8.30am-4pm Tue-Fri, 8am-1.30pm Sat)

Locals congregate en masse at this cute little spot, which isn't shy with its portions of gourmet sandwiches, salads, veggie-friendly options and hot lunches dished up at lightning speed.

IndulgeCAFE

( GOOGLE MAP ; 80 Bourbong St; dishes $9-18; icon-hoursgifh8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-12.30pm Sat)

Delicious pastries and a fancy menu built around local produce.

8Information

Bundaberg Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4153 8888, 1300 722 099; www.bundabergregion.org; 271 Bourbong St; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm)

8Getting There & Around

Air

Bundaberg AirportAIRPORT

(Airport Dr)

About 6km southwest of the centre.

QantasLinkAIRLINE

(icon-phonegif%13 13 13; www.qantas.com.au)

Has several daily flights to Brisbane.

Bus

The coach terminal is on Targo St. Both Greyhound (icon-phonegif%1300 473 946; www.greyhound.com.au) and Premier Motor Service (icon-phonegif%13 34 10; www.premierms.com.au) have daily services connecting Bundaberg with Brisbane ($89, seven hours), Hervey Bay ($25, 1½ hours) and Rockhampton ($51, four hours).

Duffy's CoachesBUS

(icon-phonegif%1300 383 397)

Has numerous services every weekday to Bargara ($5, 35 minutes), leaving from the back of Target on Woongarra St.

Train

Queensland RailTRAIN

(icon-phonegif%1800 872 467; www.traveltrain.com.au)

Sunlander ($89, seven hours, three weekly) and Tilt Train ($89, five hours, Sunday to Friday) travel from Brisbane to Bundaberg on their respective routes to Cairns and Rockhampton.

Fraser Island

The local Butchulla people call it K’Gari – paradise – and for good reason. Sculpted from wind, sand and surf, the striking blue freshwater lakes, crystalline creeks, giant dunes and lush rainforests of this gigantic sandbar form an enigmatic island paradise unlike anywhere else. Created over hundreds of thousands of years from sand drifting off the east coast of mainland Australia, Fraser Island is the largest sand island in the world (measuring 120km by 15km), and is the only known place where rainforest grows on sand.

Inland, the vegetation varies from dense tropical rainforest and wild heath to wetlands and wallum scrub, with sandblows (giant dunes over 200m high), mineral streams and freshwater lakes opening on to long sandy beaches fringed with pounding surf. The island is home to a profusion of bird life and wildlife, including the famous dingo, while offshore waters teem with dugong, dolphins, manta rays, sharks and migrating humpback whales.

Once exploited for its natural resources, sand and timber, Fraser Island joined the World Heritage List in 1992. The majority of the island is protected as part of the Great Sandy National Park ( GOOGLE MAP ).

This island utopia, however, is marred by an ever-increasing volume of 4WD traffic tearing down the beach and along sandy inland tracks. With an average of 1000 people per day visiting the island, Fraser can sometimes feel like a giant sandpit with its own peak hour and congested beach highway.

In late October 2014 the native Butchulla won a native title land claim for Fraser Island – they had been trying to get their land rights recognised since the 1970s. This will allow the Butchulla to protect places of cultural significance as they see fit, and potentially to teach visitors more about the historical and spiritual attributes of the island.

Before crossing via ferry from either Rainbow Beach or Hervey Bay, ensure that your vehicle has suitably high clearance (if you're one of the few not visiting on a tour that is) and, if camping, that you have adequate food, water and fuel.

1Sights & Activities

Starting at the island’s southern tip, where the ferry leaves for Inskip Point on the mainland, a high-tide access track cuts inland, avoiding dangerous Hook Point, and leads to the entrance of the Eastern Beach’s main thoroughfare. The first settlement is Dilli Village, the former sand-mining centre; Eurong, with shops, fuel and places to eat, is another 9km north. From here, an inland track crosses to Central Station and Wanggoolba Creek (for the ferry to River Heads).

Right in the middle of the island is the ranger centre at Central Station, the starting point for numerous walking trails. From here you can walk or drive to the beautiful McKenzie, Jennings, Birrabeen and Boomanjin Lakes. Lake McKenzie is spectacularly clear and ringed by white-sand beaches, making it a great place to swim; Lake Birrabeen sees fewer tour and backpacker groups.

About 4km north of Eurong along the beach, a signposted walking trail leads across sandblows to the beautiful Lake Wabby, the most accessible of Fraser’s lakes. An easier route is from the Lake Wabby Lookout, off Cornwell's Break Rd from the inland side. Lake Wabby is surrounded on three sides by eucalyptus forest, while the fourth side is a massive sandblow that encroaches on the lake at a rate of about 3m a year. The lake is deceptively shallow and diving is very dangerous.

As you drive up the beach, during high tide you may have to detour inland to avoid Poyungan and Yidney Rocks ( GOOGLE MAP ), before reaching Happy Valley, which has places to stay, a shop and a bistro. About 10km further north is Eli Creek, a fast-moving, crystal-clear waterway that will carry you effortlessly downstream. About 2km from Eli Creek is the rotting hulk of the Maheno ( GOOGLE MAP ), a former passenger liner which was blown ashore by a cyclone in 1935 as it was being towed to a Japanese scrap yard.

Roughly 5km north of the Maheno you’ll find the Pinnacles ( GOOGLE MAP ), an eroded section of coloured sand cliffs, and about 10km beyond, Dundubara, with a ranger station and excellent camping ground. Then there’s a 20km stretch of beach before you come to the rock outcrop of Indian Head. Sharks, manta rays, dolphins and (during the migration season) whales can often be seen from the top of this headland.

Between Indian Head and Waddy Point, the trail branches inland, passing Champagne Pools ( GOOGLE MAP ), which offers the only safe saltwater swimming on the island. There are good camping areas at Waddy Point and Orchid Beach, the last settlement on the island. Many tracks north of here are closed for environmental protection.

Kingfisher Bay Resort (icon-phonegif%07-4194 9300; www.kingfisherbay.com) can organise scenic helicopter flights, and Air Fraser Island (icon-phonegif%07-4125 3600; www.airfraserisland.com.au) offer optional, 15-minute flights to many of the islands tours for $75.

DEALING WITH DINGOES

Despite its many natural attractions and opportunities for adventure, there’s nothing on Fraser Island that gives a thrill comparable to your first glimpse of a dingo. Believed to be among the most genetically pure in the world, the dingoes of Fraser are sleek, spry and utterly beautiful. They’re also wild beasts that can become aggressive at the drop of a hat (or a strong-smelling food sack). While attacks are rare, there are precautions that must be taken by every visitor to the island.

AHowever skinny they appear, or whatever woebegone look they give you, never feed dingoes. Dingoes that are human-fed quickly lose their shyness and can become combative and competitive. Feeding dingoes is illegal and carries heavy fines.

ADon’t leave any food scraps lying around, and don’t take food to the lakes: eating on the shore puts your food at 'dingo level', an easy target for scrounging scavengers.

AStay in groups, and keep any children within arm’s reach at all times.

ATeasing dingoes is not only cruel, but dangerous. Leave them alone, and they’ll do same.

ADingoes are best observed at a distance. Pack a zoom lens and practise some silence, and you’ll come away with some brilliant photographs…and all your limbs intact.

4Sleeping & Eating

icon-top-choiceoKingfisher Bay ResortRESORT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1800 072 555, 07-4194 9300; www.kingfisherbay.com; Kingfisher Bay; d $188, 2-bedroom villas $258; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-swimgifs)icon-sustainableS

This elegant eco-resort has hotel rooms with private balcony, and sophisticated two- and three-bedroom timber villas which are elevated to limit their environmental impact. There’s a three-night minimum stay in high season. The resort has restaurants, bars and shops and operates daily ranger-guided, eco-accredited tours of the island (adult/child $160/110).

Fraser Island BeachhousesCABIN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1800 626 230, 07-4127 9205; www.fraserislandbeachhouses.com.au; Eurong Second Valley; studios/houses from $150/275; icon-swimgifs)

A top option for those wanting their own space without sand or tents. The sunny, self-contained units are kitted out with polished wood, cable TVs and ocean views; there are four categories of beach house, with prices varying by size and location. Minimum stays apply.

Eurong Beach ResortRESORT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1800 111 808, 07-4120 1600; www.eurong.com.au; Eurong; r from $135, 2-bedroom apt $199; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

Cheerful but basic Eurong is the main resort on the east coast, and a solid option for most budgets. Choose from simple motel rooms and comfortable, self-contained apartments. There's a restaurant (open for breakfast, lunch and dinner; mains $18 to $40), a bar, a shop, two pools, tennis courts and a petrol station.

Fraser Island RetreatCABIN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4127 9144; www.fraserisretreat.com.au; Happy Valley; cabins per 2 nights $360; icon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

The retreat's nine timber cabins (each sleeping up to four people) offer some of the best-value accommodation on the island. The cabins are airy, nestled in native foliage and close to the beach. On-site are a camp kitchen, licensed restaurant and shop – which sells fuel.

Sailfish on FraserAPARTMENT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4127 9494; www.sailfishonfraser.com.au; Happy Valley; d from $230-250, extra person $10; icon-swimgifs)

Any notions of rugged wilderness will be forgotten quick smart at this plush, indulgent retreat. These two-bedroom apartments (which sleep up to six people) are cavernous and classy. There are spas, mod cons, an alluring pool and a 4WD washing area.

Camping

Supplies on the island are limited and costly. Stock up well before arriving, and be prepared for mosquitoes and March flies.

Camping permits are required in order to camp at Department of National Parks, Sports & Racing (NPRSR) camping grounds and any public areas (ie along the beach). The most developed NPRSR camping grounds (icon-phonegif%13 74 68; www.nprsr.qld.gov.au; per person/family $5.45/21.80), with coin-operated hot showers, toilets and BBQs, are at Waddy Point, Dundubara and Central Station. Campers with vehicles can also use the smaller camping grounds with fewer facilities at Lake Boomanjin, and at Ungowa and Wathumba on the western coast. Walkers’ camps are set away from the main camping grounds, along the Fraser Island Great Walk trail. The trail map lists the camp sites and their facilities. Camping is permitted on designated stretches of the eastern beach, but there are no facilities. Fires are prohibited except in communal fire rings at Waddy Point and Dundubara – bring your own firewood in the form of untreated, milled timber.

Dilli Village Fraser IslandCAMPGROUND

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4127 9130; www.usc.edu.au; camp sites per person $10, bunkroom/cabins $50/120)

Managed by the University of the Sunshine Coast, Dilli Village offers good sites on a softly sloping camping ground.

Cathedrals on FraserCARAVAN PARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4127 9177; www.cathedralsonfraser.com.au; Cathedral Beach; unpowered/powered sites $39/45, cabins without/with bathroom $180/220; icon-internetgifi)

Spacious, privately run, dingo-fenced park with abundant, flat, grassy sites. It's a hit with families.

FRASER ISLAND GREAT WALK

The Fraser Island Great Walk is a stunning way to experience this enigmatic island. The trail undulates through the island’s interior for 90km from Dilli Village to Happy Valley. Broken up into seven sections of around 6km to 16km each, plus some side trails, it follows the pathways of Fraser Island’s original inhabitants, the Butchulla people. En route, the walk passes underneath rainforest canopies, circles around some of the island’s vivid lakes, and courses through shifting dunes.

It's imperative to visit www.nprsr.qld.gov.au for maps, detailed information and updates on the track, which can close when conditions are bad.

8Information

Shops at Cathedral Beach, Eurong, Kingfisher Bay, Happy Valley and Orchid Beach have general supplies and public telephones; there are also phones at most camping grounds.

Eurong QPWS Information Centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4127 9128) is the main ranger station. Others can be found at Dundubara ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4127 9138) and Waddy Point ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4127 9190). Offices are often unattended as the rangers are out on patrol.

Permits

You must purchase permits from NPRSR (icon-phonegif%13 74 68; nprsr.qld.gov.au) for vehicles (per day/week/month $11/27.70/43.60) and to camp in the NPRSR camping grounds (per person/family $5.45/21.80) before you arrive. Permits aren’t required for private camping grounds or resorts. Buy permits online or check with visitors centres for up-to-date lists of where to buy them.

SAND SAFARIS: EXPLORING FRASER ISLAND

The only way to explore Fraser Island (besides walking) is with a 4WD. For most travellers, there are three transport options: tag-along tours, organised tours or 4WD hire; the fourth option is to stay at one of the island's accommodations and take day tours from there. This is a fragile environment; bear in mind that the greater the number of individual vehicles driving on the island, the greater the environmental damage.

TAG-ALONG TOURS

Popular with backpackers, tag-along tours see groups of travellers pile into a 4WD convoy and follow a lead vehicle with an experienced guide and driver. Travellers take turns driving the other vehicles, which can be great fun, but has also led to accidents. Rates hover around $350 to $400; be sure to check if your tour includes food, fuel, alcohol etc. Accommodation is often in tents.

Advantages You can make new friends fast; driving the beaches is exhilarating.

Disadvantages If food isn't included you'll have to cook; groups can be even bigger than on bus tours.

Dropbear Adventures (icon-phonegif%1800 061 156; www.dropbearadventures.com.au) Lots of departures from Hervey Bay, Rainbow Beach and Noosa to Fraser Island; easy to get a spot.

Fraser's on Rainbow (icon-phonegif%07-5486 8885; www.frasersonrainbow.com) Departs from Rainbow Beach.

Fraser Dingo (icon-phonegif%0400 779 880; fraserislandtagalongtours.com; Unit 13 / 3 Southern Cross Circuit, Urangan; 2-day tours $304) Includes food and dorm accommodation.

Pippies Beach House (icon-phonegif%07-5486 8503; www.pippiesbeachhouse.com.au) Departs Rainbow Beach; well-organised, small convoys with high safety standards.

Nomads ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-5447 3355; www.nomadsfraserisland.com) Departs Noosa.

ORGANISED TOURS

Most organised tours cover Fraser's hotspots: rainforests, Eli Creek, Lakes McKenzie and Wabby, the coloured Pinnacles and the Maheno shipwreck.

Advantages Expert commentary; decent food and comfortable accommodation; often the most economical choice.

Disadvantages Day-tour buses often arrive en masse at the same place at the same time; less social.

Cool Dingo Tours (icon-phonegif%07-4120 3333; www.cooldingotour.com; 2-/3-day tours from $325/395) Overnight at lodges with the option to stay extra nights on the island. The party option.

Fraser Explorer Tours (icon-phonegif%07-4194 9222; www.fraserexplorertours.com.au; 1-/2-day tours $175/319) Very experienced drivers; lots of departures.

Fraser Experience (icon-phonegif%07-4124 4244; www.fraserexperience.com; 1-/2-day tours $180/327) Small-group tours offer greater freedom with the itinerary.

Remote Fraser (icon-phonegif%07-4124 3222; www.tasmanventure.com.au; tours $150) Day tours to the less-visited west coast.

4WD HIRE

You can hire a 4WD from Hervey Bay, Rainbow Beach or on Fraser Island itself. All companies require a hefty bond, usually in the form of a credit-card imprint, which you will lose if you drive in salt water – don’t even think about running the waves!

When planning your trip, reckon on covering 20km/h on the inland tracks and 40km/h on the eastern beach. Most companies will help arrange ferries, permits and camping gear. Rates for multiday rentals start at around $185 a day.

Advantages Complete freedom to roam the island and escape the crowds.

Disadvantages You may encounter beach and track conditions that even experienced drivers find challenging; expensive.

There are rental companies in Hervey Bay and Rainbow Beach. On the island, Aussie Trax (icon-phonegif%07-4124 4433; www.fraserisland4wd.com.au) hires out 4WDs from $283 per person, per day.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Air Fraser Island charges from $135 for a return flight (30-minute round trip) to the island’s eastern beach, departing Hervey Bay airport.

Boat

Vehicle ferries connect Fraser Island with River Heads, about 10km south of Hervey Bay, or further south at Inskip Point, near Rainbow Beach.

Fraser Venture BargeFERRY

(icon-phonegif%1800 227 437, 07-4194 9300; www.fraserislandferry.com.au)

Makes the crossing (vehicle and four passengers $165 return, 30 minutes) from River Heads to Wanggoolba Creek on the western coast of Fraser Island. It departs daily from River Heads at 8.30am, 10.15am and 4pm, and returns from the island at 9am, 3pm and 5pm.

Kingfisher Bay FerryFERRY

(icon-phonegif%1800 227 437, 07-4194 9300; www.fraserislandferry.com)

Operates a daily vehicle and passenger ferry (pedestrian adult/child return $50/25, vehicle and four passengers return $165, 50 minutes) from River Heads to Kingfisher Bay, departing at 6.45am, 9am, 12.30pm, 3.30pm, 6.45pm and 9.30pm (Friday and Saturday only) and returning at 7.50am, 10.30am, 2pm, 5pm, 8.30pm and 11pm (Friday and Saturday only).

Manta RayFERRY

(icon-phonegif%07-5486 3935; mantarayfraserislandbarge.com.au)

Coming from Rainbow Beach, Manta Ray has two ferries making the 15-minute crossing from Inskip Point to Hook Point on Fraser Island, continuously from about 6am to 5.30pm daily (vehicle return $110).

8Getting Around

A 4WD is necessary if you’re driving on Fraser Island; you'll need a permit. Expensive fuel is available from stores at Cathedral Beach, Eurong, Kingfisher Bay, Happy Valley and Orchid Beach. If your vehicle breaks down, call the tow-truck service (icon-phonegif%0428 353 164, 07-4127 9449) in Eurong.

The 4WD Fraser Island Taxi Service (icon-phonegif%07-4127 9188; www.fraserservice.com.au) operates all over the island. Bookings are essential, as there's only one cab for the whole island!

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