Coral Coast & the Pilbara
Coral Bay
Exmouth
Around Exmouth
Ningaloo Marine Park
Cape Range National Park
Dampier to Roebourne
Millstream Chichester National Park
Karijini National Park
Port Hedland
Coral Coast & the Pilbara
Why Go?
Lapping languidly on the edge of the Indian Ocean, the shallow, turquoise waters of the Coral Coast nurture a unique marine paradise. Lonely bays, deserted beaches and crystal-clear lagoons offer superb snorkelling and diving among myriad sea life, including humpback whales, manta rays and loggerhead turtles. World Heritage Ningaloo Reef is one of the very few places you can swim with the world's largest fish, the gentle whale shark. Development is low-key, towns few and far between, and seafood and sunsets legendary.
Inland, miners swarm like ants over the high, eroded ranges of the Pilbara, while ore trains snake down to a string of busy ports stretching from Dampier to Port Hedland. But hidden in the hills are two beautiful gems – Karijini and Millstream Chichester National Parks, home to spectacular gorges, remote peaks, deep tranquil pools and abundant wildlife.
When to Go
AApr–Jul Whale shark season – don't miss the swim of a lifetime.
ASep & Oct Karijini's gorges warm up and wildflowers blanket the ranges.
ANov–Mar Ningaloo is full of turtle love, eggs and hatchlings.
Best Places to Eat
Coral Coast & the Pilbara Highlights
1 Swimming with 'gentle giant' whale sharks in Ningaloo Marine Park.
2 Snorkelling over marine life at Turquoise Bay in Ningaloo Marine Park.
3 Descending into the 'centre of the earth' on an adventure tour through the gorges of Karijini National Park.
4 Scuba diving off the Navy Pier at Point Murat, one of the world's finest shore dives.
5 Watching the annual humpback-whale migration at North West Cape.
6 Cooling off in an idyllic waterhole at Millstream Chichester National Park.
7 Tracking turtles on remote beaches with the Ningaloo Turtle Program.
8 Spotting rare black-flanked rock wallabies on a cruise into stunning Yardie Creek Gorge.
9 Being welcomed to Country on an Indigenous cultural tour to Murujuga National Park.
a Scaling the country's biggest, most remote monolith, Mt Augustus.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Several airlines service the Coral Coast and the Pilbara.
AirnorthAIRLINE
(%1800 627 474; www.airnorth.com.au; hTue & Fri)
Circle route from Darwin stopping at Broome, Karratha and Port Hedland.
Alliance AirlinesAIRLINE
(%1300 780 970; www.allianceairlines.com.au)
Flights from Perth to Karratha.
Bus
IntegrityBUS
(%1800 226 339; www.integritycoachlines.com.au; 12-month pass Perth to Exmouth $245, Perth to Broome $365)
Services run between Perth and Broome via both coastal and inland routes, and including Exmouth and Karijini. The 12-month Hop On Hop Off passes are good value.
Coral Coast
Coral Bay
Pop 255
Beautifully situated just north of the Tropic of Capricorn, the tiny seaside village of Coral Bay is one of the easiest locations from which to access the exquisite Ningaloo Marine Park. Consisting of only one street and a sweeping white-sand beach, the town is small enough to enjoy on foot, making it popular with families. It's also a great base for outer-reef activities such as scuba diving, fishing and whale watching (June to November), and swimming with whale sharks (April to July) and manta rays.
Development is strictly limited, so expect higher prices for food and accommodation. Exmouth, 152km away, has more options. There are ATMs at the shopping centre and the Peoples Park grocer, and internet access at some of the tour outlets and Fins Cafe. The town is chockers from April to October.
1Sights & Activities
Fish feeding occurs on the beach at 3.30pm most days. Sunsets are sublime from the lookout above the beach car park.
Bill's BayBEACH
(p)
Keep to the southern end when snorkelling; the northern end (Skeleton Bay) is a breeding ground for reef sharks.
Purdy PointSNORKELLING
Walk 500m south from Bill's Bay along the coast until the 8km/h marker, then drift with the current back to the bay. Hire snorkel gear anywhere in town.
Ningaloo Kayak AdventuresKAYAKING
(%08-9948 5034; 2/3hr tours $50/70)
Various length kayak tours with snorkelling are available from the main beach. You can also hire a glass-bottom canoe ($25 per hour), wetsuit and snorkelling gear ($15 per day).
Ningaloo Reef DiveDIVING
(%08-9942 5824; www.ningalooreefdive.com)S
This PADI and eco-certified dive crew offers snorkelling with whale sharks ($390, late March to July) and manta rays ($140, all year), half-day reef dives ($180) and a full range of dive courses (from $450).
Ningaloo Marine InteractionsSNORKELLING
(%08-9948 5190; www.mantaraycoralbay.com.au; 2hr/half-/full day $75/170/210; hJun-Oct, manta rays all year)S
Informative and sustainably run tours to the outer reef include two-hour whale watching, half-day manta-ray interaction and full-day wildlife spotting with snorkelling.
TTours
Popular tours from Coral Bay include swimming with whale sharks, spotting marine life, coral viewing from glass-bottom boats, and quad-bike trips. Book from the shopping centre and caravan parks and check for advance discounts.
Coral Bay EcotoursBOAT TOUR
(%08-9942 5885; www.coralbayecotours.com.au; 1/2/3hr $39/54/75, all day $175)S
Eco-certified and carbon-neutral tours include glass-bottom boat cruises with snorkelling, and all-day wildlife-spotting trips complete with manta-ray interaction.
Coral Coast ToursDRIVING TOUR
(%0427 180 568; www.coralcoasttours.com.au; half-day 4WD adult/child $135/78, full-day 4WD adult/child $185/124, snorkelling 2/3hr $55/75)
Half-day 4WD trips showcase wildlife along the rugged tracks of Warroora Station, while full-day trips follow the coastal track to Yardie Creek and the Cape. There are also reef tours, and airport transfers ($88) continuing on to Exmouth ($110).
Coastal Adventure ToursADVENTURE TOUR
(%08-9948 5190; www.coralbaytours.com.au; 2/2.5hr quad bike $110/130, sailing from $75)
More a booking service than an individual operator, the combined quad bike and snorkelling trips get rave reviews. You can also book sailing excursions, glass-bottom boat tours and manta-ray interaction.
4Sleeping & Eating
Avoid school holidays and book well ahead for peak season (April to October). Consider self-catering, as eating out is expensive.
Peoples Park Caravan VillageCARAVAN PARK
(%08-9942 5933; www.peoplesparkcoralbay.com; sites unpowered/powered $41/47, 1-/2-bedroom cabins $250/270, hilltop villas $295; a)
This excellent park offers grassy, shaded sites and a variety of fully self-contained cabins. Friendly staff keep the modern amenities and spacious camp kitchen spotless, and it's the only place with freshwater showers. The hilltop villas have superb views, there are plenty of BBQs scattered around, and internet access is available at nearby Fins Cafe.
Ningaloo ClubHOSTEL
(%08-9948 5100; www.ningalooclub.com; Robinson St; dm $28-32, d with/without bathroom $120/95; ais)
Popular with the party crowd, this hostel is a great place to meet people, and boasts a central pool, a well-equipped kitchen and onsite bar. The rooms could be cleaner, and forget about sleeping before the bar closes. It also sells bus tickets (coach stop outside) and discounted tours.
oBills on the Ningaloo ReefMODERN AUSTRALIAN
(%08-9385 6655; Robinson St; lunch $16-24, dinner $18-28; h11am-late)
This new gastro-pub immediately ups the ante for fine dining in a location where the other food offerings look decidedly tired. Try the fabulous fish curry, a selection of tapas or wash down the 'bucket of prawns' with a refreshing boutique ale.
Fins CafeINTERNATIONAL
(%08-9942 5900; Peoples Park; dinner mains $24-46; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner; i)
Casual, outdoor BYO with ever-changing blackboard menu showcasing local seafood, curries and safe classics.
8Getting There & Around
Coral Bay is 1144km north of Perth and 152km south of Exmouth. The closest airport is Learmonth, 118km to the north. Groups should consider hiring a car.
IntegrityBUS
(%1800 226 339; www.integritycoachlines.com.au; outside Ningaloo Club)
Coaches run three times a week to Perth ($203, 16 hours) and Exmouth ($47, 90 minutes), and once a week to Karijini ($177, 12 hours).
Coral Coast ToursSHUTTLE
(%0427 180 568; www.coralcoasttours.com.au; adult/child $88/44)
Airport shuttle between Coral Bay and Learmonth
STATION STAYS
If you're sick of cramped caravan parks and want somewhere a little more relaxed and off the beaten track, consider a station stay. Scattered around the Coral Coast are a number of pastoral stations offering a range of rustic accommodation – be it an exquisite slice of empty coast, dusty home paddock, basic shearers' digs or fully self-contained, air-conditioned cottages.
Don't expect top-notch facilities; most sites don't have any at all. Power and water are limited; the more self-sufficient you are, the more enjoyable the stay – remember, you're getting away from it all. You will find loads of wildlife, previously unseen stars, oodles of space, and some fair-dinkum outback.
Some stations offer wilderness camping away from the homestead (usually by the coast) and you'll need a 4WD and chemical toilet. These places tend to cater for fisher-types with boats and grey nomads who stay by the week.
Certain stations only offer accommodation during the peak season (April to October).
GiraliaPASTORAL STATION
(%08-9942 5937; www.giraliastation.com.au; Burkett Rd, 110km north of Coral Bay; camping per person $10, donga $70, cottage $160, homestead s/d $220/300; as)
Popular with fishermen and well set-up for travellers, there's a bush camping area with amenities, dongas, a family cottage and air-conditioned homestead rooms with breakfast and dinner included. The coast is 40 minutes away by 4WD. Meals and liquor available.
BullaraPASTORAL STATION
(%08-9942 5938; www.bullara-station.com.au; Burkett Rd, 70km north of Coral Bay.; camping $13, tw/d/cottage $110/140/200; hApr-Oct)
Near the Minilya road junction and 2WD accessible, there's several rooms in the renovated shearers' quarters, a three-bedroom cottage and unpowered camping with amenities.
WarrooraPASTORAL STATION
(%08-9942 5920; www.warroora.com; Minilya Exmouth Rd, 47km north of Minilya; camping per day/week $10/50, r per person $30, cottages $150)
Offers wilderness camp sites along the coast (some 2WD accessible) and cheap rooms in the shearers' quarters as well as a self-contained cottage and homestead. Chemical toilets for hire (per day $15).
Ningaloo StationPASTORAL STATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9942 5936; www.ningaloostation.com.au; Minilya Rd, 85km north of Coral Bay; sites per week $35, bond $100)
Not to be confused with the marine park, the original station offers limited, totally self-sufficient bush sites on pristine coastline.
Exmouth
Pop 2500
Once a WWII submarine base, Exmouth didn't flourish until the 1960s brought the Very Low Frequency (VLF) communications facility to North West Cape. Simultaneously, fishing (especially prawns) and resources exploration commenced, both still thriving today (gas flares are visible from Vlamingh Head at night).
With World Heritage protection of Ningaloo Reef, tourism provides the bulk of visitors, many coming to see the magnificent and enigmatic whale sharks (April to July). Peak season (April to October) sees this laid-back town stretched to epic proportions, but don't be put off, it's still the perfect base to explore nearby Ningaloo Marine and Cape Range National Parks. Alternatively, just relax, wash away the road dust and enjoy the local wildlife; emus wandering the footpaths, roos lounging in the shade, goannas ambling across the highway and corellas, galahs and ringnecks screeching and swooping through the trees.
Exmouth
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
1Sights & Activities
Exmouth is flat, hot and sprawling, with most of the attractions located outside town and no public transport. Most activities are water based. Turtle volunteering is popular from November to January.
Snorkellers and divers head to Ningaloo Marine Park or the Muiron Islands. Try to find the informative Parks & Wildlife (DPaW) book Dive and Snorkel Sites in Western Australia. Several dive shops in town offer PADI courses.
A set of cycle paths ring Exmouth and continue north to Harold E Holt Naval Base (HEH), where the road continues to Bundegi Beach; watch out for dingos! Ask around for bike hire.
Town BeachBEACH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1km east of Murat Rd; p)
An easy walk from town, this beach is popular with kiteboarders when an easterly is blowing.
Sewerage WorksBIRDWATCHING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Willersdorf Rd)
Good water-bird viewing here and at the golf course next door.
Exmouth Cape HorsesHORSE RIDING
(%0400 886 576; www.exmouthcapehorses.com.au; 1hr ride $70)
These short, beautiful beach rides along Exmouth Gulf are suitable for all skill levels and ages.
TTours & Courses
Swim with whale sharks, spot wildlife, dive, snorkel, kayak, surf and fish to your heart's content – the visitor centre has the full list of tours available. Some are seasonal.
Outside whale-shark season, marine tours focus on manta rays. You need to be a capable snorkeller. Be wary of snorkelling on what may essentially be a dive tour – the action may be too deep. It's normally 30% cheaper if you stay on the boat. Most ocean tours depart from Tantabiddi on the western cape and include free transfers from Exmouth. Check conditions carefully regarding 'no sighting' policies and cancellations.
Kings Ningaloo Reef ToursWILDLIFE TOUR
(%08-9949 1764; www.kingsningalooreeftours.com.au; snorkeller/observer $385/285)
Long-time player Kings gets rave reviews for its whale shark tours. It's renowned for staying out longer than everyone else, and has a 'next available tour' no-sighting policy.
Ningaloo Ecology CruisesBOAT TOUR
(%1800 554 062; www.ningalootreasures.com.au; 1/2½hr $50/70)
Has one-hour glass-bottom boat trips (April to October), and longer 2½-hour trips (all year) including snorkelling.
Birds Eye ViewSCENIC FLIGHTS
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0427 996 833; www.ningaloomicrolights.com.au; Exmouth Aerodrome; 30-/60-/90-min flight $199/299/399)
Don't want to get your feet wet but still after adrenalin? Get some altitude on these incredible microlight flights over the Cape and (longer flights only) Ningaloo Reef.
Montebello Island SafarisCRUISE
(%0419 091 670; www.montebello.com.au; hApr-Nov)
Has a permanent houseboat moored at the Montebello Islands for maximum marine love on a six-night tour (per person $3000).
Capricorn Kayak ToursKAYAKING
(%0427 485 123; www.capricornseakayaking.com.au; half-/1-/2-/5-day tour $99/179/665/1650)
Capricorn offers single- and multi-day kayaking and snorkelling tours along the lagoons of Ningaloo Reef.
Ningaloo Whaleshark-N-DiveDIVING
(%1800 224 060; www.ningaloowhalesharkndive.com.au)
Offers daily dives to Lighthouse Bay ($185) and the Muiron Islands ($210) as well as longer live-aboard tours to the Muiron and Montebello Islands. Dive courses also available from intro ($255) to full PADI ($620).
NINGA TURTLE TRACKERS
Along the coast each year between November and March, volunteer turtle-monitoring programs provide exciting opportunities for active involvement in local conservation. Expect strange hours, uncomfortable conditions and immense satisfaction. Applications usually open around August, but check individual programs.
Ningaloo Turtle ProgramVOLUNTEERING
(NTP; www.ningalooturtles.org.au; Exmouth; 5 weeks $1300; hNov-Mar)
Volunteers must commit to a five-week period, spending most of that time at a remote base. Work from sunrise for five hours collecting data on turtle nesting, habitat and predation, then the rest of the day is free. Your fee covers all equipment, meals, accommodation, transport from Exmouth and insurance.
Pendoley EnvironmentalVOLUNTEERING
(%08-9330 6200; www.penv.com.au; Port Hedland; hNov-Jan)F
Pendoley's tagging program works alongside the oil and gas industry at sites such as Barrow Island. Typical placements are for 17 days with all expenses covered, there's a strict selection process and you'll be working mostly at night with minimal free time.
Care for HedlandVOLUNTEERING
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0439 941 431; www.careforhedland.org.au; hNov-Mar)
Grass-roots environmental group runs volunteer monitoring programs on Port Hedland beaches from November.
Gnaraloo Turtle Conservation ProgramVOLUNTEERING
(GTCP; GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9315 4809; www.gnaraloo.com/conservation/gnaraloo-turtle-conservation-program; Quobba Coast via Carnarvon; hOct-Apr)S
Science graduates (any discipline) prepared to commit for six months can apply to GTCP where all food, accommodation, transport and training are supplied.
4Sleeping
Accommodation is limited so book ahead, especially for the peak season (April to October).
Exmouth Ningaloo Caravan & Holiday ResortCARAVAN PARK
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9949 2377; www.exmouthresort.com; Murat Rd; unpowered/powered sites $38/49, dm/d $39/80, chalets from $205; paWs)
Across from the visitor centre, this friendly, spacious park has grassy sites, self-contained chalets, four-bed dorms, an on-site restaurant and even a pet section. If you're camping, this is your best bet.
Potshot Hotel ResortRESORT
(Excape Backpackers YHA; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9949 1200; www.potshotresort.com; Murat Rd; dm/d $30/72, motel d $145, studios $245, apt from $270; paiWs)
A town within a town, this bustling resort has 10-bed dorms, standard motel rooms, luxury Osprey apartments, several bars and a disco. The backpacker rooms can be noisy, but the apartments are good value for a group.
Ningaloo LodgeGUESTHOUSE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %1800 880 949; www.ningaloolodge.com.au; Lefroy St; d $150; paWs)
These clean, tastefully appointed motel rooms are one of the better deals in town, with a modern communal kitchen, barbecue, shady pool and free wi-fi.
5Eating & Drinking
Some popular haunts have relocated or been renamed. There is a supermarket, bakery and several take aways at Exmouth Shopping Centre.
Grace's Tavern ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9949 1000; Murat Rd; hnoon-11pm) and Potshot Hotel ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9949 1200; Murat Rd; h10am-late) are your drinking options and both serve decent pub meals.
oWhalers RestaurantSEAFOOD
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9949 2416; whalersrestaurant.com.au; 27 Murat Rd, inside Exmouth Escape; mains $29-40; h6pm-late)
Recently relocated, this Exmouth institution is famous for its delicious Creole-influenced seafood. Don't miss the signature New Orleans gumbo, complemented by a seafood tasting starter of soft-shell crab, local prawns and oyster shooters. Die-hard bug aficionados need look no further than the towering seafood medley.
See SaltCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9949 1400; www.seesalt.com.au; 1 Thew St, Shopping Centre; meals $8-22 ; h6.30am-3.30pm daily, 6pm-8.30pm Thu-Sun)
Repackaged and relocated Ningaloo Health retains the same wholesome daylight menu while expanding to dinners later in the week. Kick start your morning with chilli eggs or a bowl of Vietnamese pho (beef and rice-noodle soup). The more timid can dive into a berry pancake stack, Bircher muesli or a detox juice.
See Salt also offers light lunches, salads, smoothies, take-away picnic hampers (great for a day trip to Cape Range National Park) and excellent coffee.
BBqFatherBARBECUE, ITALIAN
(Pinocchio; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9949 4905; www.thebbqfather.com.au; Murat Rd, Exmouth Ningaloo Caravan Park & Resort; mains $18-40; h6-9pm Mon-Sat Feb-Oct)
This popular, licensed alfresco ristorante has changed its name and gone BBQ crazy, serving up huge, succulent, smoky slabs of beef, pork and veal ribs. After receiving a reality check from the locals, their much loved pizzas and home-made pastas are also back on the menu. The servings are as legendary as ever.
5 Kennedy StMODERN AUSTRALIAN
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9949 4507; www.5kennedyst.com.au; 5 Kennedy St; mains from $30; hnoon-late Tue-Thu, 9am-late Fri-Sun)S
On the old Whalers site, Exmouth's newest restaurant offers sophisticated dishes using the best of local and sustainable ingredients. The menu is divided by dish size and ranges from bite-size snacks to 1kg slabs of meat and bone.
7Shopping
Exmouth Shopping CentreSHOPPING CENTRE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Maidstone Cres)
The shopping centre includes a dive shop, gift shop, surf and camping stores, and two supermarkets. A Sunday craft market runs from April to October.
Ningaloo Kite & BoardOUTDOOR EQUIPMENT
(Exmouth Camper Hire; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9949 4050; www.exmouthcamperhire.com.au; 16 Nimitz St; hcall first)
New and second-hand kites, full beginners' kits and lots of local info from these experts who also rent out fully-stocked camper vans.
Reef BeefFOOD
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0408 951 775; 11 Pelias St; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat)
Their blurb says it all – delicious beef jerky. Best road-trip snack ever.
8Information
For information on environmental projects around the cape, check out the Cape Conservation Group's website (www.ccg.org.au).
Internet access is available at the library ( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9949 1462; 22 Maidstone Cres; h8.30am-4pm Mon-Thu, 8.30am-noon Sat; i) and at Potshot Hotel.
Department of Parks & WildlifeTOURIST INFORMATION
(DPaW; GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9947 8000; www.dpaw.wa.gov.au; 20 Nimitz St; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri)
Supplies maps, brochures and permits for Ningaloo, Cape Range and Muiron Islands, including excellent wildlife guides. Can advise on turtle volunteering.
Tours N Travel NingalooINTERNET
(Europcar; GOOGLE MAP ; %0437 106 183; cnr Pellew St & Murat Rd; internet per hr $5 ; h8.30am-7pm; i)
Internet access, second-hand books and the local Europcar agent.
Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9949 1176; www.visitningaloo.com.au; Murat Rd; h9am-5pm)
Tour bookings, bus tickets, accommodation service, Yardie Creek boat tickets and parks information.
8Getting There & Away
Exmouth's Learmonth Airport is 37km south of town.
Airport Shuttle BusBUS
(%08-9949 4623; $25)
Meets all flights; reservations are required when heading to the airport.
IntegrityBUS
( GOOGLE MAP ; %1800 226 339; www.integritycoachlines.com.au)
Coaches run from the visitors centre to Perth ($240, 17 hours), Coral Bay ($47, 90 minutes) and Broome ($240, 18 hours) three times a week; there are weekly services to Karijini ($167, 10 hours).
Red Earth SafarisBUS
( GOOGLE MAP ; %1800 501 968; www.redearthsafaris.com.au; $200)
Weekly Perth express departing Exmouth from the Potshot Resort at 7am on Sunday ($200, 30 hours). Includes meals and an overnight stop.
8Getting Around
Budget, Avis and Europcar have agents around town, with car hire starting at $80 per day.
AllensCAR RENTAL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9949 2403; rear 24 Nimitz St; per day from $60)
Older cars with 150 free kilometres.
Exmouth Boat & Kayak HireBOAT HIRE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0438 230 269; www.exmouthboathire.com; 7 Patterson Way; kayaks per day $50)
Tinnies (small dinghies) or something larger (including a skipper!) can be hired from $100 per day.
Exmouth Camper HireCAR RENTAL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9949 4050; www.exmouthcamperhire.com.au; 16 Nimitz St; 4 days from $660)
Camper vans with everything you need to spend time in Cape Range National Park, including solar panels.
Scooters2goSCOOTER RENTAL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9949 4488; https://www.facebook.com/pages/Exmouth-Scooters2go/1550679805188747; cnr Murat Rd & Pellew St; per day/week $80/$175)
You only need a car licence for these 50 & 125cc scooters, which are much cheaper by the week. Best to ring first.
Around Exmouth
Head north past Harold E Holt Naval Base (HEH; GOOGLE MAP ) to an intersection before the VLF antenna array. Continue straight on for Bundegi Beach or turn left onto Yardie Creek Rd for the magnificent beaches and bays of the western cape and Ningaloo Reef.
The Cape Range National Park entrance station is at the 40km mark and the road south is navigable by all vehicles as far as Yardie Creek. Experienced 4WD-ers can attempt crossing the sandy creek at low tide, before continuing along a rough coastal track all the way to Coral Bay. Check road conditions first at Milyering visitor centre.
1Sights & Activities
Bundegi BeachBEACH
( GOOGLE MAP ; p)
In the shadow of the VLF antenna array, and within cycling range of Exmouth (it's 14km north), the calm, sheltered waters of Bundegi Beach and accompanying reef provide pleasant swimming, snorkelling, diving, kayaking and fishing.
SS Mildura WreckSHIPWRECK
( GOOGLE MAP ; Mildura Wreck Rd)
Follow the signpost from Yardie Creek Rd to find the 1907 cattle ship that ran aground on the reef.
Vlamingh Head LighthouseLIGHTHOUSE
( GOOGLE MAP )
It's hard to miss this hilltop lighthouse built in 1912. Spectacular views of the entire cape make it a great place for watching whales and sunsets.
Mauritius BeachBEACH
( GOOGLE MAP ; Yardie Ck Rd, 21km NW; p)
Clothing-optional beach near Vlamingh Head Lighthouse.
oNavy PierDIVING
( GOOGLE MAP ; Point Murat; dives $155)
Point Murat, named after Napoleon's brother-in-law, is home to one of the world's best shore dives, under the Navy Pier. There's a fantastic array of marine life including nudibranchs, scorpion fish, moray eels and reef sharks. As it's on Defence territory, you'll need to join a tour and the exclusive licence rotates regularly among Exmouth dive shops.
Jurabi Turtle CentreWILDLIFE INTERACTION
(JTC; GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9947 8000; Yardie Creek Rd; 2hr night tour adult/child $20/10; hopen 24hr; night tours from 6.30pm Nov-Mar)SF
Visit by day (free entry) to study turtle life cycles, and obtain the DPaW pamphlet Marine Turtles in Ningaloo Marine Park. Return at night to observe nesting turtles and hatchlings (November to March), remembering to keep the correct distance and never to shine a light or camera flash directly at any animal.
The best and ecologically safest way to encounter nesting turtles is on a DPaW guided night tour. Book at Exmouth Visitors Centre.
Exmouth Kite CentreKITESURFING
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0467 906 091; www.exmouthkitecentre.com.au; Lot 2 Yardie Creek Rd, Ningaloo Lighthouse Caravan Park; 1/3hr lessons $100/270)
Learn to kitesurf with this fun crew based out at Vlamingh Head.
4Sleeping
Ningaloo Lighthouse Caravan ParkCARAVAN PARK
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9949 1478; www.ningaloolighthouse.com; Yardie Creek Rd; unpowered/powered sites $33/41, cabins $115, bungalows $135, lighthouse/lookout chalets $155/245; as)
Superbly located on the western cape under Vlamingh lighthouse near Surfers Beach, the clifftop chalets have fantastic views. There's plenty of shady tent sites for lesser mortals and a cafe during peak season (May to September).
Yardie Homestead Caravan ParkCARAVAN PARK
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9949 1389; www.yardie.com.au; Yardie Creek Rd; unpowered/powered sites $32/38, cabins $130, chalets $180; pWs)
Located just outside Cape Range National Park, this former sheep station caters mainly for anglers, though travellers are also welcome and there are some nice grassy tent sites. There's a range of cabins (most require a security bond) plus a pool, shop and camp kitchen.
8Information
Milyering Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9949 2808; Yardie Creek Rd; snorkelling gear day/overnight $10/15; h9am-3.45pm)
Serving both Ningaloo Marine Park and Cape Range National Park, this centre has informative natural and cultural displays, maps, tide charts, camp site photos and publications. Check here for road and water conditions. It's 53km from Exmouth.
Ningaloo Marine Park
World Heritage–listed Ningaloo Marine Park protects the full 300km length of exquisite Ningaloo Reef, from Bundegi Reef on the eastern tip of the peninsula to Red Bluff on Quobba Station far to the south. Home to a staggering array of marine life – sharks, manta rays, humpback whales, turtles, dugongs, dolphins and more than 500 species of fish – Australia's largest fringing reef is also easily accessible, in places only 100m offshore.
8When to Go
Year-round marine awesomeness includes:
November to March Turtles – three endangered species nest and hatch in the dunes.
March Coral spawning – an amazing event occurring seven days after the full moon.
Mid-March to July Whale sharks – the biggest fish on the planet arrive for the coral spawning.
May to November Manta rays – present year round; their numbers increase dramatically over winter and spring.
June to November Humpback whales – breed in the warm tropics then head back south to feed in the Antarctic.
8Wildlife
Over 220 species of hard coral have been recorded in Ningaloo, ranging from bulbous brain corals found on bommies, to delicate branching staghorns and the slow-growing massive coral. While less colourful than soft corals (which are normally found in deeper water on the outer reef), the hard corals have incredible formations. Spawning, where branches of hermaphroditic coral simultaneously eject eggs and sperm into the water, occurs after full and new moons between February and May, but the peak action is usually six to 10 days after the March full moon.
It's this spawning that attracts the park's biggest drawcard, the solitary speckled whale shark (Rhiniodon typus). Ningaloo is one of the few places in the world where these gentle giants arrive like clockwork each year to feed on plankton and small fish, making it a mecca for marine biologists and visitors alike. The largest fish in the world, the whale shark can weigh up to 21 tonnes, although most weigh between 13 and 15 tonnes, and reach up to 18m long. They can live for 70 years.
Upload your amazing whale-shark pics to Ecocean (www.whaleshark.org), which will identify and track your whale shark, or geo-tag your other critters with Coastal Walkabout (www.coastalwalkabout.org). To learn more about Ningaloo's denizens, grab a copy of DPaW's The Marine Life of Ningaloo Marine Park & Coral Bay.
2Activities
Most travellers visit Ningaloo Marine Park to snorkel. ALWAYS stop first at Milyering visitor centre for maps and information on the best spots and conditions. Check the tide chart and know your limits, as currents can be dangerous, the area is remote, and there's no phone coverage or lifeguards. While not common, unseasonal conditions can bring dangerous smacks of irukandji jellyfish. The park office also rents snorkelling equipment.
oTurquoise BaySNORKELLING
( GOOGLE MAP ; Yardie Creek Rd, 65km from Exmouth)
The Bay Snorkel Area is suitable for all skill levels with myriad fish and corals just off the beach to the right of the Bay car park. The Drift attracts stronger swimmers where the current carries you over coral bommies. Don't miss the exit point or you'll be carried out through the gap in the reef.
The Drift Snorkel Area is 300m south along the beach from the Drift car park; swim out for about 40m then float face down in the current. Get out before the sandy point where the current strengthens, then run back along the beach and start all over!
LakesideSNORKELLING
( GOOGLE MAP ; Yardie Creek Rd, 54km from Exmouth)
Walk 500m south along the beach from the car park then snorkel out with the current before returning close to your original point.
Oyster StacksSNORKELLING
( GOOGLE MAP ; Yardie Creek Rd, 69km from Exmouth)
These spectacular bommies are just metres offshore, but you need a tide of at least 1.2m and sharp rocks make entry/exit difficult. If you tire, don't stand on the bommies; look for some sand.
oNingaloo Kayak TrailKAYAKING
S
Still in its infancy, this fantastic new Parks & Wildlife initiative will see a string of specialist kayak-only moorings stretch from Bundegi Beach to Coral Bay, interspersed with designated remote beach camp sites. The moorings allow kayakers to tether their craft while snorkelling, and the camp sites allow for extended trips. Contact DPaW in Exmouth for more information, or enter Ningaloo Marine Park Kayak Moorings into your internet search engine for a downloadable brochure outlining the trail.
Lighthouse BayDIVING
( GOOGLE MAP ; Yardie Creek Rd)
There's great scuba diving at Lighthouse Bay at sites such as the Labyrinth, Blizzard Ridge and Mandu Wall. Check out the DPaW book Dive and Snorkel Sites in Western Australia for other ideas.
Reef SearchVOLUNTEERING
(Reef Check; www.reefcheckaustralia.org)
Add a new dimension to your snorkelling or diving by collecting marine data in your own time, or volunteering for reef monitoring (courses available).
Cape Range National Park
oCape Range National ParkNATIONAL PARK
(per car $12)
The jagged limestone peaks and gorges of rugged 510-sq-km Cape Range National Park offer relief from the otherwise flat, arid expanse of North West Cape, and are rich in wildlife, including the rare black-flanked rock wallaby, five types of bat and over 200 species of bird. Spectacular deep canyons cut dramatically into the range, before emptying out onto the wind-blown coastal dunes and turquoise waters of Ningaloo Reef.
The main park access is via Yardie Creek Rd. Several areas in the east are accessible from unsealed roads off Minilya–Exmouth Rd, south of Exmouth. The park was hit by bad floods in 2014 and several camp sites and attractions are now closed: some permanently, others are being redeveloped. Check Parkstay (http://parkstay.dpaw.wa.gov.au) for the latest update.
1Sights & Activities
Charles Knife CanyonGORGE
( GOOGLE MAP ; Charles Knife Rd, Eastern Cape, 23km south of Exmouth)
On the east coast, an incredibly scenic and at times dramatic road ascends a knife-edge ridge via rickety corners, necessitating frequent stops to make the most of the breathtaking views. A rough track continues to Thomas Carter lookout, where (in the cooler months) you can walk the 8km Badjirrajirra loop trail through spinifex and rocky gullies; there's no shade or water. Under no circumstances attempt this during summer.
Mangrove Bay Bird HideBIRD SANCTUARY
( GOOGLE MAP ; Western Cape , 8km from Cape Range National Park entrance station; p)F
Spot migratory birds among the mangroves, or just wander out along the tidal flats.
Mandu Mandu GorgeGORGE
( GOOGLE MAP ; 20km south of Milyering; p)
A pleasant but dry 3km return walk onto the gorge rim.
Yardie Creek GorgeGORGE
( GOOGLE MAP ; 36km south of Milyering; p)
Excellent views above a water-filled gorge on this easy 2km return walk.
Yardie Creek Boat ToursBOAT TOUR
(%08-9949 2920; www.yardiecreekboattours.com.au; adult/child/family $35/15/80; h11am & 12.30pm seasonally, closed Feb)
A relaxing one-hour cruise up the short, sheer Yardie Creek Gorge where you might spot rare black-flanked rock wallabies.
SURFING THE CAPE
The big swells arrive on North West Cape between July and October and there's plenty of breaks and lots of rocks.
Surfers BeachSURFING
(Dunes; GOOGLE MAP ; Mildura Wreck Rd, 17km northwest of Exmouth)
Ruggedly beautiful, surfers flock to the western cape during winter, while in the summer months windsurfing and kiteboarding are popular. The first car park provides the best access to the reef break.
Lighthouse BombieSURFING
( GOOGLE MAP ; Yardie Creek Rd, 19km northwest of Exmouth)
Off Vlamingh Head, the bombie is a big paddle out. Only for more experienced surfers.
Wobiri AccessSURFING
( GOOGLE MAP ; Yardie Creek Rd, 23km northwest of Exmouth)
On the western cape some 23km from Exmouth, gentle waves are suitable for beginners and surf classes are sometimes held.
Muiron IslandsSURFING
( GOOGLE MAP )
Serious surfers should grab a few mates and charter a boat to the Muiron Islands, just off Point Murat, where there are countless breaks and no one to ride them. You can camp on South Muiron with a permit from Exmouth DPaW. There's also excellent snorkelling and diving.
Your charter fee should include all meals, accommodation (onboard or camping) and fishing and snorkelling gear. Charters may be arranged from the Exmouth visitor centre.
4Sleeping
Cape Range Camp SitesCAMPGROUND
(per person $10)
A string of sandy camp sites line the coast within the Cape Range National Park. Facilities and shade are minimal, though most have toilets and some shelter from prevailing winds. Some can be booked online using Parkstay (http://parkstay.dpaw.wa.gov.au), others are allocated on arrival at the park entrance station (not the visitor centre!). If you like quiet, ask for 'generator free'.
Most camps have resident caretakers during peak season. The two furthest sites are the other side of Yardie Creek, you'll need a high-clearance 4WD to access them.
Sal SalisLUXURY CAMPGROUND
(%1300 790 561; www.salsalis.com; wilderness tent s/d 2 nights from $1126/1500; hMar-Dec)
Want to watch that flaming crimson Indian Ocean sunset from between 500-threadcount pure cotton sheets? Pass the chablis! For those who want their camp without the cramp, there's a minimum two-night stay, three gourmet meals a day, a free bar (!) and the same things to do as the couple over the dune in the pop-up camper.
The Pilbara
Dampier to Roebourne
Most travellers skip the mining-services section of the coast from Dampier to Roeburn as there's little to see, unless you like huge industrial facilities. However, there are several interesting sights, good transport, well-stocked supermarkets and useful repair shops.
TTours
Ngurrangga ToursCULTURAL TOUR
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0423 424 093; https://www.facebook.com/NgurranggaTours; adult/child from $110/55; hFeb-Nov)
Ngarluma man, Clinton Walker's cultural tours are gathering rave reviews from travellers across the Pilbara. His half-day Murujuga National Park tour explores rock art petroglyphs on the Burrup Peninsula near Dampier, while longer day tours explore the culturally significant areas of Gregory's Gorge (adult $220, child $110) and Millstream (adult $220, child $110), the latter also available as an overnight option (adult $440, child $220).
zFestivals
Red Earth Arts FestivalARTS
(www.reaf.com.au; hSep)
An annual celebration of music, theatre and visual arts spread across the Pilbara coast.
Dampier
Dampier, spread around King Bay, is the region's main port and is home to heavy industry. Offshore, the coral waters and pristine island reserves of the Dampier Archipelago support a wealth of marine life and endangered marsupials.
Hearson Cove ( GOOGLE MAP ; p) has a pleasant beach providing Staircase to the Moon viewing and access to Murujuga rock art.
Murujuga National Park ( GOOGLE MAP ) is home to the world's largest concentration of petroglyphs, stretched out along the unwanted rocky hills of the heavily industrialized Burrup Peninsula. The most accessible are at Deep Gorge, near Hearson Cove and devastatingly, some sites have been vandalised. You'll need a 4WD to explore north of Withnell Bay.
Karratha
Most travellers in Karratha bank, restock, repair stuff and get out of town before their wallet ignites.
If you have time, the Jaburara Heritage Trail (Yaburara; GOOGLE MAP ) leaves from behind the visitor centre. This series of trails (the longest of which is 3.5km one way) winds through significant traditional sites, detailing the displacement and eventual extinction of the Jaburara people. Bring plenty of water and start early.
4Sleeping & Eating
Accommodation prospects, previously dire, are gradually improving. Search online for last-minute deals or try the visitor centre. Weekends are usually cheaper than midweek. Point Samson and Millstream are nicer alternatives.
The shopping centre has most things you'll need, including ATMs, take-away food and supermarkets.
Pilbara Holiday ParkCARAVAN PARK
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9185 1855; www.aspenparks.com.au; Rosemary Rd; powered sites $42, motel/studio d $190/200; ais)
Neat and well run with good facilities.
SoulCAFE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0422 667 649; Warambie Rd, Pelago Centre; h6am-4pm)
City-style sophisticated breakfasts and quick lunches.
8Information
Karratha Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9144 4600; www.karrathavisitorcentre.com.au; Karratha Rd; h8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat & Sun, shorter hr Oct-Mar; i)
Has good local info, supplies Rail Access road permits, books tours (including to mining infrastructure) and may find you a room.
8Getting There & Away
Karratha is well connected. Virgin, Qantas and Alliance all fly daily to Perth. Airnorth flies to Broome, Darwin and Port Hedland twice weekly.
IntegrityBUS
( GOOGLE MAP ; %1800 226 339; www.integritycoachlines.com.au)
Departs from the visitor centre for Perth ($282, 24 hours), Port Hedland ($89, three hours) and Broome ($187, 10 hours) twice a week.
Roebourne
Sitting on Ngaluma country, 40km east of Karratha, Roebourne is the oldest (1866) Pilbara town still functioning. It's home to a large Aboriginal community; Yindjibarndi is the dominant language group. There are some beautiful old buildings and a thriving indigenous art scene (www.roebourneart.com.au). The Yinjaa-Barni ( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9182 1959; www.yinjaa-barni.com.au; Lot 3 Roe St; hvary) Indigenous-run gallery showcases gifted Millstream artists.
Housed in the old gaol, the visitor centre (Old Gaol; GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9182 1060; www.roebourne.org.au; Queen St; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat & Sun, shorter hr Nov-Apr) has an interesting museum, a courtyard minerals display and a guide to Roebourne's significant buildings.
Cossack
The scenic ghost town of Cossack, at the mouth of the Harding River, was previously the district's main port but was usurped by Point Samson and then eventually abandoned. Many of the historic bluestone buildings date from the late 1800s.
The small, self-guided Social History Museum (adult/child $2/1; h9am-4pm) in Cossack's old courthouse celebrates the town’s halcyon days, while the Japanese section of the tiny Pioneer Cemetery ( GOOGLE MAP ) bears witness to Cossack's pearling past.
At the road-end, Reader Head Lookout ( GOOGLE MAP ; p) has great views over the river mouth, beach and Staircase to the Moon. Usually empty, Settlers Beach ( GOOGLE MAP ) is great for a dip.
The informative (and shadeless!) 6km Cossack Heritage Trail ( GOOGLE MAP ) links all the major sites (grab the brochure from Roebourne visitor centre).
There are five basic rooms at Cossack Budget Accommodation (%08-9182 1190; www.karratha.wa.gov.au/cossack; d without/with air-con $100/120; a), housed in the atmospheric old police barracks. BYO food.
Point Samson
Point Samson is a small, industrial-free seaside village that's home to great seafood and clean beaches, making it the nicest place to stay in the area. There's good snorkelling off Point Samson, and the picturesque curved beach of Honeymoon Cove.
The tiny Samson Beach Caravan Park ( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9187 1414; Samson Rd; powered sites $42) is set in lovely, leafy surrounds, close to the water and tavern. Bookings are essential during school holidays. Over at Cove ( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9187 0199; www.thecoveholidayvillage.com.au; Macleod St; sites $49, 1-/2-bedroom units $240/310) it's a bit 'van city', but the modern, clean facilities complement a great location and it's an easy walk to all the attractions.
Samson Beach Chalets ( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9187 0202; www.samsonbeach.com.au; Samson Rd; chalets $280-650; paWs) offers beautifully appointed self-contained chalets (various sizes) just a short walk from the beach. There's a shady pool, free wi-fi and in-house movies. While Samson Beach Bistro (%08-9187 1435; mains $11-44; h11am-3pm & 5-8.30pm), underneath the pub, serves great seafood on a shady deck overlooking the ocean.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
MT AUGUSTUS (BURRINGURRAH) NATIONAL PARK
Mt AugustusNATIONAL PARK
(Burringurrah; GOOGLE MAP )F
In Wajarri country, this huge monocline (1105m), twice as large as Uluru and a good deal more remote, rises 717m above the surrounding plains. There are a number of walking trails and Aboriginal rock-art sites to explore, including the superb summit trail (12km return, six hours).
In a 2WD it's a rough 450km from Carnarvon via Gascoyne Junction or 350km from Meekatharra. With a 4WD there are at least three other routes including a handy back door to Karijini via Dooley Downs and Tom Price. All of these routes see little traffic, so be prepared for the worst. There's no camping in the park.
Mt Augustus Tourist ParkPASTORAL STATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9943 0527; www.mtaugustustouristpark.com; unpowered/powered sites $22/33, donga d $88, units $176; pa)
Dusty camp sites, wallabies and tumbleweeds are all you'll see at the closest accommodation to Mt Augustus.
Millstream Chichester National Park
Millstream Chichester National ParkNATIONAL PARK
( GOOGLE MAP ; per vehicle $12)
Amongst the arid, spinifex-covered plateaus and basalt ranges between Karijini and the coast, the tranquil Millstream waterholes of the Fortescue River form cool, lush oases. In the park's north are the stunning breakaways and eroded mesas of the Chichester Range. A lifeline for local flora and fauna, the park is one of the most important Indigenous sites in WA. Once the station homestead, the unstaffed visitor centre houses historical, ecological and cultural displays.
1Sights & Activities
Jirndarwurrunha PoolCULTURAL SITE
( GOOGLE MAP ; Millstream)
A short stroll from the Millstream Chichester National Park visitor centre, beautiful lily and palm-fringed Jirndarwurrunha is strongly significant to the traditional Yindjibarndi owners. Swimming is not permitted.
Deep Reach PoolSWIMMING HOLE
(Nhangganggunha; GOOGLE MAP ; Millstream; p)
Shady picnic tables and barbecues back onto a perfect swimming hole believed to be the resting place of the Warlu (creation serpent).
Mt HerbertLOOKOUT
( GOOGLE MAP ; Roebourne-Wittenoom Rd, Chichester Range; p)
A 10-minute climb from the car park on the road to Roebourne reveals a fantastic view of the ragged Chichester Range.
Python PoolSWIMMING HOLE
( GOOGLE MAP ; Chichester Range; p)
This plunge pool is normally fine for swimming, though check for algal bloom before sliding in.
Murlamunyjunha TrailWALKING
This palm-lined 7km walking trail (two hours return) featuring interpretive plaques by the traditional Yindjibarndi owners, links Crossing Pool and Milliyanha Campground.
Chichester Range Camel TrailHIKING
( GOOGLE MAP )
Fit hikers might attempt the 8km Camel Trail linking Mt Herbert and Python Pool via McKenzie Spring. Allow three hours one way.
4Sleeping
Milliyanha CampgroundCAMPGROUND
( GOOGLE MAP ; Millstream; sites per person $10; p)
A nicely shaded, circular camp site near the visitors centre with a kitchen in the middle. If full, try the sparse Stargazers camp site.
TOM PRICE & NEWMAN
Bookending Karijini National Park are the neat, company-built mining towns of Tom Price and Newman. Newman, to the east on the Great Northern Hwy, is larger though more distant, with better transport and accommodation. Both have good (ie air-conditioned) supermarkets, petrol stations and visitor centres, where you can book mine tours if huge holes are your thing. The local libraries have internet access, and Newman's caravan parks are OK for a tent.
Newman Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9175 2888; www.newman.org.au; Fortescue Ave; mine tour adult/child $30/15; h8am-5pm Mar-Oct, shorter hr Nov-Feb)
Has a mud map of local sights and six short-term chalets ($150) to stay in.
Tom Price Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(%08-9188 5488; www.tomprice.org.au; Central Rd; mine tour adult/child $30/15; h8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-12.30pm Sat & Sun, shorter hr Nov-Apr)
Can supply Rail Access Rd permits and book tours.
Karijini National Park
Karijini National ParkNATIONAL PARK
( GOOGLE MAP ; per car $12)
The narrow, breathtaking gorges, hidden pools and spectacular waterfalls of Karijini National Park form one of WA's most impressive attractions. Adventurers and nature lovers flock to the rocky, red ranges and deep, dark chasms, home to abundant wildlife and over 800 different plant species.
Kangaroos, snappy gums and wildflowers dot the spinifex plains, rock wallabies cling to sheer cliffs and endangered olive pythons lurk in giant figs above quiet pools. The park also contains WA's three highest peaks: Mt Meharry, Mt Bruce and Mt Frederick.
Banyjima Dr, the park's main thoroughfare, connects with Karijini Dr at two entrance stations. The eastern ( GOOGLE MAP ) access is closest to the visitor centre and Dales Gorge. Take extra care driving as tourist roll overs are common. Avoid driving at night.
Choose walks wisely, dress appropriately and never enter a restricted area without a certified guide. Avoid the gorges during and after rain, as flash flooding does occur.
1Sights & Activities
Exploring Karijini's gorges is a magical experience, but obey all signs and keep out of restricted areas.
Dales GorgeGORGE
( GOOGLE MAP ; 19km from the East Entrance; p)
A short, sharp descent from near Dales Campground leads to Fortescue Falls, behind which a leafy stroll upstream reveals beautiful Fern Pool (Jubura; GOOGLE MAP ); head 1km downstream from Fortescue Falls to picturesque Circular Pool; ascend to Three Ways Lookout and return along the cliff top.
Kalamina GorgeGORGE
( GOOGLE MAP ; Kalamina Gorge Rd; p)
Wide, easy gorge with a small, tranquil pool and falls.
Joffre GorgeGORGE
( GOOGLE MAP ; Joffre Falls Rd; p)
Joffre Falls (when not trickling) are spectacular but the frigid pools below are perennially shaded. There's a walking track to the falls from the Karijini Eco Retreat.
Knox GorgeGORGE
( GOOGLE MAP ; Joffre Falls Rd)
Descend from Knox Lookout to several nice, sunny swimming holes, fringed by native figs.
Weano GorgeGORGE
( GOOGLE MAP ; Weano Rd; p)
The upper gorge is dry, but the steep track winding down from the car park to the lower gorge narrows until you reach the perfect, surreal bowl of Handrail Pool.
Oxers LookoutLOOKOUT
( GOOGLE MAP ; Weano Rd; p)
The final 13km to the breathtaking Oxers Lookout can be rough, but it's worth it for the magnificent views of the junction of the Red, Weano, Joffre and Hancock Gorges some 130m below.
Hancock GorgeGORGE
( GOOGLE MAP ; Weano Rd; p)
A steep descent (partly on ladders) brings the sunny Amphitheatre. Follow the slippery Spider Walk to sublime Kermits Pool.
Hamersley GorgeGORGE
( GOOGLE MAP ; off Nanutarra-Wittenoom Rd,; p)
Away in Karijini's northwest corner, this idyllic swimming hole and waterfall makes a pleasant stopover if you're heading north towards the coast or Millstream.
PunurrunhaWALKING
(Mt Bruce; GOOGLE MAP )
Gorged out? Go and grab some altitude on WA's second-highest mountain (1235m), a superb ridge walk with fantastic views all the way to the summit. Start early, carry lots of water and allow five hours (9km return). The access road is off Karijini Dr opposite the western end of Banyjima Dr.
TTours
To fully appreciate the awesomeness of Karijini's gorges, consider an accredited adventure tour through the restricted areas.
oWest Oz Active Adventure ToursADVENTURE TOUR
(%0438 913 713; www.westozactive.com.au; Karijini Eco Retreat; 1-/3-/5-day tours $245/$745/1450, 3-day tour ex Tom Price $335; hApr-Nov)
Offers action-packed day trips through the restricted gorges and combines hiking, swimming, floating on inner tubes, climbing, sliding off waterfalls and abseiling. All equipment and lunch provided. Also offers longer all-inclusive multi-day tours with airport pick ups and Integrity bus rendezvous.
Lestok ToursBUS TOUR
(%08-9188 1112; www.lestoktours.com.au; day adult/child $165/80)
Full-day outings to Karijini departing from Tom Price.
4Sleeping & Eating
Dales GorgeCAMPGROUND
( GOOGLE MAP ; sites adult/child $10/2.20; p)
Though somewhat dusty, this large DPaW campground offers shady, spacious sites with nearby toilets and picnic tables. Forget tent pegs – you'll be using rocks as anchors.
Karijini Eco RetreatRESORT
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9425 5591; www.karijiniecoretreat.com.au; Weano Rd; sites $40, tent d low/high season $190/315; p)S
This 100% Indigenous-owned retreat is a model for sustainable tourism, and the attached bar and restaurant (mains $28-39) has fantastic food, including the best barra within light years. Campers get hot showers and the same rocks as elsewhere in the park. Rates are cheaper in summer when the retreat winds down and temperatures soar.
8Information
Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9189 8121; Banyjima Dr; h9am-4pm Feb-late Dec)
Indigenous managed with excellent interpretive displays highlighting Banyjima, Yinhawangka and Kurrama culture, as well as displays on park wildlife, good maps and walks information, a public phone and really great air-con.
8Getting There & Away
Bring your own vehicle. The closest airports are Paraburdoo (101km) and Newman (201km).
IntegrityBUS
(%1800 226 339; www.integritycoachlines.com.au)
Weekly service to/from Perth ($293, 25 hours), Broome ($198, 12 hours) and Exmouth ($146, eight hours) passes through Tom Price, where you can pick up a tour to Karijini.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
MARBLE BAR
Marble Bar, a long way off everybody's beaten track, burnt itself into the Australian psyche as the country's hottest town when, back in 1921, the mercury didn't dip below 37.8˚C (100°F) for 161 consecutive days. The town is (mistakenly) named after a bar of jasper beside a pool on the Coongan River, 5km southwest.
Most days there's not much to do. You can pore over the minerals at the Comet Gold Mine ( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9176 1015; Hillside Rd; admission $3; h9am-4pm; p), 8km out of town on the Hillside Rd, or you can prop at the bar and have a yarn with Foxie at the Ironclad Hotel (%08-9176 1066; 15 Francis St; hvary). This classic outback pub offers comfy motel rooms, decent meals and a welcome to budget travellers.
But come the first weekend in July, the town swells to 10 times its normal size for a weekend of drinking, gambling, fashion crime, country music, nudie runs and horse racing known as the Marble Bar Cup. The caravan park ( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9176 1569; 64 Contest St; sites unpowered/powered $20/30) overflows and the Ironclad is besieged as punters from far and wide come for a bit of an outback knees-up.
The shire office (%08-9176 1008) runs a weekly bus service to Port Hedland and Newman (via Nullagine) and provides tourist information. If you're heading south, the easiest route back to bitumen is the lonely but beautiful Hillside Rd.
Port Hedland
Pop 14,000
Port Hedland ain't the prettiest place. A high-visibility dystopia of railway yards, iron-ore stockpiles, salt mountains, furnaces and a massive deep-water port confront the passing traveller. Yet under that red-dust lurks a colourful 130-year history of mining booms and busts, cyclones, pearling and WWII action. Several pleasant hours may be spent exploring Hedland's thriving art and cafe (real coffee!) scene, historic CBD and scenic foreshore.
1Sights & Activities
Collect the excellent Port Hedland, A Discover's Journal from the visitor centre and take a self-guided tour around the CBD and foreshore.
Between November and February flatback turtles nest on nearby beaches. Check at the visitor centre for volunteer options.
Goode St, near Pretty Pool, is handy to observe Port Hedland's Staircase to the Moon.
oCourthouse GalleryGALLERY
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9173 1064; www.courthousegallery.com.au; 16 Edgar St; h9am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat & Sun)
More than a gallery, this leafy arts HQ is the centre of all goodness in Hedland. Inside are stunning local contemporary and Indigenous exhibitions, while the shady surrounds host sporadic craft markets. If something is happening, these folks will know about it.
Spinifex Hill StudiosGALLERY
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0457 422 875; www.spinifexhillstudio.com.au; 18 Hedditch St, South Hedland; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri)
Great new initiative showcasing Indigenous artists from Hedland and across the Pilbara. Call before visiting.
Marapikurrinya ParkPARK
( GOOGLE MAP ; end of Wedge St)
Watch ridiculously large tankers pass by. After dark, nearby Finucane Lookout provides a smouldering view into BHP Billiton's Hot Briquetted Iron plant.
Pretty PoolFISHING
( GOOGLE MAP )
A popular fishing and picnicking spot (beware of stonefish and backpackers), 7km east of the town centre.
TTours
BHP BillitonGUIDED TOUR
(adult/child $45/30; hvary)
Popular iron-ore plant tour departing from the visitor centre.
Local HistoryBUS TOUR
(90min $25; hApr-Sep)
Run by a local historian these informative tours delve into Hedland's chequered past. Book at the visitor centre.
4Sleeping & Eating
Finding a room in Hedland isn't easy or cheap. Try the visitor centre, otherwise head for 80 Mile Beach or Point Samson.
There are supermarkets, cafes and take aways at both the Boulevard ( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Wilson & McGregor Sts) and South Hedland (Throssell Rd) shopping centres.
Cooke Point Caravan ParkCARAVAN PARK
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9173 1271; www.aspenparks.com.au; cnr Athol & Taylor Sts; powered sites $54, d without bathroom $130, unit d from $204; aWs)
You might be able to snag a dusty van or tent site here, but the other options are usually full. There's a nice view over the mangroves and the amenities are well maintained.
oSilver StarCAFE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0411 143 663; Edgar St; breakfast $10-20, lunch $18-24; h7am-3pm)
Possibly the coolest cafe in the Pilbara, this 1930s American Silver Star railcar serves up decent coffee, brekkies and sophisticated lunches in the original observation lounge and outside on a shady deck.
8Information
There are ATMs along Wedge St and in the Boulevard shopping centre. The library ( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9158 9378; Dempster St; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat; i) has internet access.
Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9173 1711; www.visitporthedland.com; 13 Wedge St; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat-Sun; iW)
This amazing centre sells travel books, publishes shipping times, arranges iron-ore plant tours, and helps with accommodation and turtle monitoring (November to February).
Seafarers CentreINTERNET
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9173 1315; www.phseafarers.org; cnr Wedge & Wilson Sts; h9am-11pm; iW)
High speed wi-fi and internet. Also sells Integrity bus tickets, Aboriginal artefacts and currency exchange.
8Getting There & Around
AVirgin and Qantas both fly to Perth daily, and on Tuesday Qantas also flies direct to Brisbane and Melbourne. Virgin has handy weekend flights to Bali and Broome. Airnorth heads to Broome (Tuesday and Friday) with a Darwin connection.
The airport is 13km from town; a taxi (%08-9172 1010) will cost around $40.
IntegrityBUS
( GOOGLE MAP ; %1800 226 339; www.integritycoachlines.com.au)
Coaches for Perth ($293, 28 to 31 hours) and Broome ($129, six hours) three times weekly. There's also a quicker inland route to Perth ($274, 22 hours) via Newman each week. Departs from the visitor centre and South Hedland shopping centre.