Southern New South Wales
Southern New South Wales Highlights
The Southern Highlands
Bowral
Berrima & Bundanoon
Yass & Around
Albury
Wagga Wagga
Griffith
Snowy Mountains
Jindabyne
Kosciuszko National Park
Thredbo
Southern New South Wales
Why Go?
Between Sydney and Albury, atmospheric old towns straddle the Hume Hwy, each of them with a claim to fame, be it bushrangers, rich grazing land or old money.
Highlights include the Southern Highlands town of Bowral, and the sleepy heritage settlements of Yass and Gundagai. Right on the New South Wales (NSW)–Victoria border, Albury combines an emerging arts scene with a fine museum and good cafes and bars, and to the north, riverside Wagga Wagga is NSW's biggest inland city.
Northwest of the highway, the land flattens out, becoming redder and drier. The Murray and Murrumbidgee Rivers provide much-needed irrigation in the Riverina district fuelling a food tourism scene around Griffith.
Between Albury and the NSW coast, the Snowy Mountains are defined by the massive hulk of Mt Kosciuszko, Australia's highest summit. Visit in winter for good skiing and alpine sports, or mountain biking, hiking and fishing in summer.
When to Go
AEaster Head to the riverside town of Deniliquin for the Big Sky Blues & Roots Festival.
AJun–Aug Enjoy Australia's best skiing and snowboarding in the Snowy Mountains.
AOct Experience the culinary highlights of the Riverina's annual Taste festival.
Best Places to Stay
Southern New South Wales Highlights
1 Learning about 'The Don' at Bowral's Bradman Museum of Cricket.
2 Going underground to explore the cave systems of the Southern Highlands.
3 Experiencing regional NSW's interesting heritage in sleepy Yass and quirky Gundagai.
4 Combining art with local cuisine, wine and beer in Albury and Wagga Wagga.
5 Discovering your inner Italian in Griffith's main street eateries.
6 Mountain biking around the hills of lakeside Jindabyne.
7 Skiing and snowboarding in bustling wintertime Thredbo.
The Southern Highlands
Bowral
Pop 12,154
Just off the Hume Hwy, Bowral is one of the Southern Highlands' main towns, a pretty area revelling in its Englishness. Other towns to explore include Moss Vale.
1Sights
oInternational Cricket Hall of FameMUSEUM
(%02-4862 1247; www.internationalcrickethall.com.au; St Jude St, Bowral; adult/child $20/11; h10am-5pm)
Bowral is where the late great cricketer Sir Donald Bradman, Australia’s most legendary sporting hero, spent his boyhood. Within the Hall of Fame complex, there’s a pretty cricket oval, and fans pay homage to Bradman at the Bradman Museum of Cricket (www.bradman.com.au), which has an engrossing collection of Ashes and Don-centric memorabilia. The ever-expanding collection showcasing the international game is a must for all sports fans, not just cricket buffs.
zFestivals & Events
THE MIGHTY HUME
The four-lane Hume Hwy, running nearly 900km from Sydney to Melbourne, has many scenic routes and heritage towns just off it. Note the highway's speed limit of 110km/h is rigorously enforced, and speeding fines are hefty.
4Sleeping & Eating
This area is popular with Sydney day trippers and overnighters, and has a good dining and B&B scene. Top spots for lunch include Centennial Vineyards (%02-4861 8700; www.centennialrestaurant.com.au; Centennial Rd; mains $28-39; hnoon-3pm Wed-Mon), Southern Highland Wines (%02-4686 2300; www.shw.com.au; Oldbury Rd; mains $27-34; hnoon-3pm Thu-Mon) and McVitty Grove Estate (%02-4878 5044; www.feastatmcvitty.com.au; Wombeyan Caves Rd; tapas $18-20, mains $28-34; h10am-4pm Thu-Sun).
oLinks ManorGUESTHOUSE
(%02-4861 1977; www.linkshouse.com.au; 17 Links Rd; r $190-340; aW)
This boutique guesthouse has a drawing room and garden courtyard straight out of Remains of the Day. Prices are highest on Friday and Saturday.
oRaw & WildCAFE
(250 Bong Bong St; mains $14-24; h8am-5.30pm Sun-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat; v)S
Enter through the health food shop to Bowral's best cafe, with a focus on all things organic, local, wild and sustainable. Did we mention it's all very tasty as well? Good beers and wines mean you don't need to be too virtuous. On weekends, tapas nights are very popular.
oBiota DiningMODERN AUSTRALIAN
(%02-4862 2005; http://biotadining.com; 18 Kangaloon Rd, Bowral; brunch mains $19, degustation $105-165; h9-11am Sat & Sun, noon-2.30pm Fri-Mon, 6-9.30pm daily)
Innovative seasonal menus include interesting dishes like salted cucumber with oysters and beach plants, and the wine list is as good as the weekend brunch. Try the crab and creamed egg sliders with a restorative pepperberry Bloody Mary.
8Information
Southern Highlands Visitors CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(%02-4871 2888; www.southern-highlands.com.au; 62-70 Main St, Mittagong; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat & Sun)
In Mittagong, near Bowral.
CAVES OF THE SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS
The spectacular limestone Wombeyan Caves (%02-4843 5976; www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au; Wombeyan Caves Rd; Figtree Cave adult/child $18/12, 2 caves & tour 'Discovery Pass' $30/23; h9am-4pm) lie up an unsealed mountain road 65km northwest of Mittagong. Nearby are walking trails, and a campground with cabins and cottage accommodation.
The Abercrombie Caves (%02-6368 8603; http://abercrombiecaves.com; self-guided/guided tours $18/30; h9am-4pm Thu-Mon) are reached via a turn-off 72km south of Bathurst. The complex has one of the world's largest natural tunnels, the Grand Arch.
About 57km southeast of Yass, along some partly dirt roads, the limestone Careys Cave (%02-6227 9622; www.weejaspercaves.com; adult/child $15.40/9.90; htours noon, 1.30pm & 3pm Sat & Sun, noon & 1.30pm Fri & Mon) is at Wee Jasper. Phone ahead for tours.
The Jenolan Caves ( GOOGLE MAP ; %1300 763 311; www.jenolancaves.org.au; Jenolan Caves Rd; adult/child from $32/22; htours 9am-5pm) are also in the region.
Berrima & Bundanoon
Pop 246 (Berrima), 2419 (Bundanoon)
South along the Hume Hwy is heritage-classified Berrima, founded in 1829, and featuring galleries, antique shops, and good food and wine. South of Berrima is sleepy Bundanoon, a gateway to Morton National Park.
1Sights
Morton National ParkNATIONAL PARK
(www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au; per vehicle $3)
Morton National Park features the deep gorges and high sandstone plateaus of the Budawang Range and includes the 81m-high Fitzroy Falls. The NPWS visitor centre (%02-4887 7270; www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au; Nowra Rd, Fitzroy Falls) has information on walking and hiking.
4Sleeping & Eating
oBundanoon YHAHOSTEL
(%02-4883 6010; www.yha.com.au; 115 Railway Ave; dm/d/tr $34/78/102)
Occupies a restored Edwardian guesthouse wrapped in a shady verandah.
Bendooley Bar & GrillBISTRO
(%02-4877 2235; www.bendooleyestate.com.au; pizza $22-25, mains $27-34; h10am-3pm)
A top spot for a leisurely lunch showcasing local and seasonal produce. Try the prawn and chilli pizza with an Aussie craft beer. Attached to Berkelouw's Book Barn & Café.
Josh's CaféCAFE
(%02-4877 2200; 9 Old Hume Hwy, Berrima; mains $25-32; hnoon-3pm Wed-Sat, 6-9pm Thu-Sat, 9am-3pm Sun)
An eclectic cafe with a focus on Turkish flavours.
oEschalotMODERN AUSTRALIAN
(%02-4877 1977; www.eschalot.com.au; 24 Old Hume Hwy, Berrima; mains $36-40, 7-course degustation $110; hnoon-2.30pm Thu-Sun, 6-9pm Wed-Sat )
This heritage sandstone cottage showcases superb modern Australian cooking. Flavours could include sesame-crusted alpaca tataki (seared and thinly sliced meat) with watermelon, kaffir cream and wild rice, and desserts are heavenly.
7Shopping
Berkelouw's Book Barn & CaféBOOKS
(%02-4877 1370; www.berkelouw.com.au; Old Hume Hwy, Bendooley; h9am-5pm)
Three kilometres north of Berrima, Berkelouw’s Book Barn & Café stocks secondhand and antiquated tomes.
8Getting There & Away
NSW TrainLink (%13 22 32; www.nswtrainlink.info) trains runs from Bundanoon to Wollongong ($8.60, two hours) and Sydney Central ($21, two hours).
Yass & Around
Pop 5591
Laced with heritage buildings and sleepy corner pubs, Yass is atmospheric and quiet (thanks to the highway bypass).
Yass Valley Visitor Centre (%1300 886 014; www.yassvalley.com.au; 259 Comur St; h9.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun) is in Coronation Park. The adjacent Yass & District Museum (%02-6226 2577; www.yasshistory.org.au; adult/child $5/free; h10am-4pm Sat & Sun ) has a model of the town in the 1890s. The 1835 Cooma Cottage (%02-6226 1470; www.nationaltrust.org.au/nsw/CoomaCottage; adult/child $5/3; h10am-4pm Fri-Sun) is on the Yass Valley Way on the Sydney side of town. Walking maps from the visitor centre include coverage of the Hume & Hovell Walking Track.
In early November, the Wine, Roses & All That Jazz Festival features music, gourmet food and wine tasting.
The best place to stay is the graceful Globe Inn (%02-6226 3680; www.theglobeinn.com.au; 70 Rossi St; s/d from $130/160).
YOU'RE HALFWAY THERE…
On the Murrumbidgee River, Gundagai is around halfway between Sydney and Melbourne. There's a good riverside campground and motels, but the best place to stay is Hillview Farmstay (%02-6944 7535; www.hillviewfarmstay.com.au; Hume Hwy; 1-/2-/4-bedroom cottage $145/175/450; a) on a 1000-acre farm around 34km to the south.
Gold rushes and bushrangers were part of Gundagai's colourful early history. The notorious bushranger Captain Moonlite was tried in Gundagai's 1859 courthouse and is buried in the town's northern cemetery. Also in the cemetery is the grave of Yarri, an Indigenous man who saved almost 50 locals during a flood in the early 1800s.
The evocative Prince Alfred Bridge – closed to traffic and pedestrians – crosses the flood plain of the river. Alongside is a stretch of the longest wooden railway track in New South Wales.
The Mt Parnassus Lookout has 360-degree views. Ask at the visitor centre about the equally scenic Rotary Lookout.
About 8km east of town, the famous Dog on the Tuckerbox is a poignant sculpture of a dog from a 19th-century bush ballad.
Albury
Pop 45,627
This major regional centre on the Murray River sits on the state border opposite its Victorian twin, Wodonga. It's a good launchpad for trips to the snowfields and high country of both Victoria and NSW and for exploring the upper Murray River. It's also a good spot to break the journey between Sydney and Melbourne.
1Sights
Library MuseumMUSEUM
(%02-6023 8333; www.alburycity.nsw.gov.au; cnr Kiewa & Swift Sts; h10am-7pm Mon, Wed & Thu, to 5pm Tue & Fri, to 4pm Sat, noon-4pm Sun)F
Exhibitions and local history, including Indigenous culture and 20th-century migration into the area.
Albury Regional Art GalleryGALLERY
(%02-6043 5800; www.alburycity.nsw.gov.au; 546 Dean St; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat, noon-4pm Sun)F
After a $10.5 million makeover, Albury's art gallery reopened in mid-2015 as probably the finest NSW gallery outside of Sydney. Highlights include the Indigenous and contemporary galleries.
2Activities
Noreuil ParkSWIMMING
Just before the Lincoln Causeway with beautiful shady plane trees and a river swimming pool. Try the loop, a magical 20-minute float on your back.
Wonga WetlandsBIRDWATCHING
(Riverina Hwy, Splitters Creek)
See up to 154 bird species and an Indigenous camp site established by local Wiradjuri people at this innovative project to restore local wetlands.
4Sleeping
Albury Motor Village YHAHOSTEL
(%02-6040 2999; www.yha.com.au; 372 Wagga Rd; dm/d/f $30/70/90; is)
About 4.5km north of central Albury with cabins, vans and backpacker dorms.
oBriardale B&BB&B
(%02-6025 5131; www.briardalebnb.com.au; 396 Poplar Dr; r $155-190; a)
This elegant North Albury B&B has beautiful rooms with an understated antique style. The property adjoins a spacious park.
Quest AlburyAPARTMENT
(%02-6058 0900; www.questalbury.com.au; 550 Kiewa St; r from $149; aW)
Studio suites and apartments feature contemporary decor with soothing dark-wood furniture.
5Eating & Drinking
Green ZebraCAFE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6023 1100; www.greenzebra.com.au; 484 Dean St; mains $11.50-17.50; h8am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-3pm Sat & Sun; v)S
Homemade pasta, salads and other organic dishes are all winners at this excellent main street cafe.
Mr BenedictCAFE
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.mrbenedict.com.au; 664 Dean St; mains $12-21; h7.30am-3pm Wed-Sun)
Our favourite Albury cafe combines the best coffee in town, a concise but well-chosen beer and wine list, and interesting breakfast and lunch blackboard specials.
Kinross WoolshedPUB FOOD
(%02-6043 1155; www.kinrosswoolshed.com.au; Old Sydney Rd, Thurgoona; mains $12-32; h9am-late Mon-Fri, from 7am Sat, from 8am Sun)
Drive (or get the shuttle bus) to this country pub in an old 1890s woolshed. Country music kicks off on Saturday nights after budget-busting $2 bacon-and-egg rolls.
Border Wine RoomMODERN AUSTRALIAN
(www.borderwineroom.com.au; 492a Dean St; mains $28-37; h4pm-midnight Tue-Sat)
This classy bar and restaurant delivers innovative food often imbued with subtle hints of Middle Eastern and Asian cuisine.
BambooCRAFT BEER
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.bambooalbury.com.au; 498 Dean St; hnoon-3pm Wed-Sun, 5.30pm-late Tue-Sun)
Craft beer, Asian street food and occasional live music in the garden courtyard.
8Information
Albury Visitor Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(%1300 252 879; www.visitalburywodonga.com.au; Railway Pl; h9am-5pm)
Opposite the railway station.
8Getting There & Away
The airport (Borella Rd) is 4km out of town. Rex (%13 17 13; www.rex.com.au), Virgin Australia (www.virginaustralia.com.au) and Qantas (%13 13 13; www.qantas.com.au) share routes to Sydney (from $130, 1¼ hours) and Melbourne (from $109, one hour).
GreyhoundBUS
(%1300 473 946; www.greyhound.com.au)
Buses to Melbourne ($52, 3¾ hours), Wagga Wagga ($35, 2½ hours) and Sydney (from $82, 10 hours).
NSW TrainLinkTRAIN
(%13 22 32; www.nswtrainlink.inf)
XPT trains to Wagga Wagga ($19, 1¼ hours) and Sydney ($72, eight hours), and to Melbourne ($46, 3½ hours). NSW TrainLink buses also run to Echuca ($32, 4¼ hours) and V/Line trains (%13 61 96; www.vline.com.au) run to Melbourne ($33, 3¾ hours).
Wagga Wagga
Pop 46,913
The Murrumbidgee River squiggles around Wagga Wagga's northern end, and riverside eucalypts complement tree-lined streets and lovely gardens. Known as 'place of many crows' to the Wiradjuri people, 'Wagga' is NSW's largest inland city.
1Sights & Activities
Botanic GardensGARDENS
( GOOGLE MAP ; Macleay St; hsunrise-sunset)
Featuring a small zoo with kangaroos, wombats and emus, and a free-flight aviary. Nearby Baden Powell Dr leads to a good lookout and scenic Captain Cook Drive.
Museum of the RiverinaMUSEUM
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.wagga.nsw.gov.au/museum; Baden Powell Dr; h10am-4pm Tue-Sat, to 2pm Sun)F
Two sites at the Civic Centre and the Botanic Gardens; the latter site focuses on Wagga's people, places and events.
Wagga Wagga Art GalleryGALLERY
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6926 9660; www.wagga.nsw.gov.au/gallery; Civic Centre, Morrow St; h10am-4pm Tue-Sat, to 2pm Sun )F
Local and national artists, and the wonderful National Art Glass Gallery.
Wiradjuri Walking TrackWALKING
A 12km and a 30km circuit each begin at the visitor centre; the circuits include lookouts and places of Aboriginal significance.
Wagga BeachSWIMMING
At the end of Tarcutta St, this is a good swimming option by the river.
zFestivals & Events
TasteFOOD, WINE
(www.tasteriverina.com.au; hOct)
A month of tasty culinary events across the Riverina area.
WAGGA WINES & OILS
Harefield RidgeWINERY
(www.cottontailwines.com.au; 562 Pattersons Rd; h11.30am-late Wed-Sun)
Cellar-door tastings and meals.
Wagga Wagga WineryWINERY
(%02-6922 1221; www.waggawaggawinery.com.au; Oura Rd; h11am-10pm Thu-Sun)
Cellar-door tastings and meals.
Charles Sturt University WineryWINERY
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.winery.csu.edu.au; McKeown Dr; h11am-4pm Fri-Sun)
Wine, olive oil and cheese tastings.
Wollundry Grove OlivesOLIVE GROVE
(%02-6924 6494; www.wollundrygroveolives.com.au; 15 Mary Gilmore Rd; h11am-4pm)
Award-winning olive oil and table olives.
4Sleeping
Wagga Wagga Beach Caravan ParkCAMPGROUND
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6931 0603; www.wwbcp.com.au; 2 Johnston St; sites per adult $25, cabins $115-170; aW)
Includes a swimming beach fashioned from the riverbank.
Townhouse HotelHOTEL
(%02-6921 4337; http://townhousewagga.com.au; 70 Morgan St; r $119-189; aWs)
Centrally located with excellent service and stylish rooms, although not all have exterior windows.
Dunns B&BB&B
(%02-6925 7771; www.dunnsbedandbreakfast.com.au; 63 Mitchelmore St; s/d $130/140; aW)
A pristinely decorated Federation home with a private balcony and sitting room. It's out near the Botanic Gardens.
5Eating & Drinking
Mates Gully OrganicsCAFE
(www.matesgully.com.au; 32 Fitzmaurice St; mains $14-33; h8am-4pm Sun-Wed, to 9.30pm Thu-Sat; W)S
Shared tables and wall art create a cool vibe, and much of the produce is home-grown. There's also occasional live music.
Oak Room Kitchen & BarBISTRO
(www.townhousewagga.com/the-oakroom/; Townhouse Hotel, 70 Morgan St; bar snacks $7-17, mains $28-39; h6pm-late Mon-Sat)
The bustling Oak Room combines small plates, like seared Queensland scallops, with larger meals, including house-made gnocchi and roast lamb from the nearby Riverina region. The bar is open for drinks and snacks from 5pm.
Magpies NestBISTRO
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6933 1523; www.magpiesnestwagga.com; 20 Pine Gully Rd; set menu $55; h5.30pm-late Tue-Sat)
A delightfully informal restaurant set in a restored 1860s stone stable overlooking the Murrumbidgee River flats and surrounded by olive groves and vineyards.
Thirsty Crow Brewing CoCRAFT BEER
(www.thirstycrow.com.au; 31 Kincaid St; pizzas $19-25; h4-10pm Mon & Tue, 11am-11.30pm Wed-Sat, noon-9.30pm Sun)
Come for the tasty beer – our favourite is the hoppy Dark Alleyway IPA – and stay for the wood-fired pizzas.
8Information
Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %1300 100 122; www.visitwagga.com; 183 Tarcutta St; h9am-5pm)
Bookings and information.
8Getting There & Away
Qantas (%13 13 13; www.qantas.com.au) flies to Sydney (from $129, one hour) and Rex (%13 17 13; www.rex.com.au) flies to Melbourne (from $129, 1¼ hours) and Sydney (from $126, 1¼ hours).
NSW TrainLink (%13 22 32; www.nswtrainlink.info) buses leave from Wagga train station (%02-6939 5488, 13 22 32), where you can make bookings. Trains run to Albury ($25, 1¼ hours), Melbourne ($88, five hours) and Sydney Central ($88, 6¾ hours).
WORTH A TRIP
JUNEE
Some 33km north of Wagga Wagga, Junee features numerous impressive buildings.
Built in 1884, the mansion of Monte Cristo (%02-6924 1637; www.montecristo.com.au; Monte Cristo Rd; adult/child $12/6; h10am-4pm) is open for self-guided tours. It's rumoured to be haunted by its former owner. The town also has three fine heritage pubs.
Other attractions include the 1947 Roundhouse Railway Museum (%02-6924 2909; www.roundhousemuseum.com.au; Harold St; adult/child $6/4; hnoon-4.30pm Mon-Fri, from 9.30am Sat & Sun), featuring a giant turntable with 42 train-repair bays – the only one still working in Australia – and the Junee Liquorice & Chocolate Factory (%02-6924 3574; www.greengroveorganics.com; 45-61 Lord St; adult/child $4/2.50; h9.30am-4.30pm, tours on the hour 10am-3pm).
Griffith
Pop 17,616
You're likely to see Indians, Fijians and Italians in Griffith, a tribute to the cultural diversity of this small agricultural town. The local culinary scene makes Griffith the wine-and-food capital of the Riverina.
1Sights & Activities
Pioneer Park MuseumMUSEUM
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6962 4196; cnr Remembrance & Scenic Drs; adult/child $10/6; h9.30am-4pm)
North of town with a re-creation of an early Riverina village, and a recently added wine exhibition.
Sir Dudley de Chair LookoutVIEWPOINT
This panoramic lookout is near the Hermit's Cave, which was inhabited by an Italian-born man for decades in the early 20th century; watch out for snakes.
McWilliam's Hanwood EstateWINERY
(www.mcwilliamswine.com; Jack McWilliam Rd, Hanwood; htastings 10am-4pm Tue-Sat)
The region's oldest winery (1913).
De BortoliWINERY
(www.debortoli.com.au; De Bortoli Rd; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, to 4pm Sun)
Try the astounding Black Noble dessert wine.
Catania Fruit Salad FarmFARM
(%02-6963 0219; www.cataniafruitsaladfarm.com.au; Farm 43, Cox Rd, Handwood; htours 1.30pm Feb-Nov)
Farm tours include a session tasting pickles, relishes, fruits and jams.
DON'T MISS
ITALIAN GREATS IN GRIFFITH
ABest cannoli pastry: Bertoldo's Bakery (324 & 150 Banna Ave; h8.30am-5pm)
ABest focaccia: La Piccola Italian Deli (444a Banna Ave; h8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-1pm Sat, 9am-noon Sun)
ABest pizza: Belvedere
zFestivals & Events
4Sleeping
Myalbangera OutstationHOSTEL
(%0428 130 093; Farm 1646, Rankin Springs Rd, Yenda; dm $19-25, d $40-45; a)
Backpacker option 12km out of town. The owners can assist with finding seasonal work.
Banna SuitesAPARTMENT
(%02-6962 4278; www.bannasuites.com; 470 Banna Ave; 1-/2-bedroom apt from $150/260)
Chic and cosmopolitan apartments right on Griffith's main street.
Grand MotelMOTEL
(%02-6969 4400; www.grandmotelgriffith.com.au; 454 Banna Ave; r $135-175; aWs)
Lofty ceilings and bright modern rooms, but avoid the ones without windows.
DENILIQUIN: FESTIVAL TOWN
On the NSW Labour Day long weekend in October, sleepy Deniliquin celebrates the Ute Muster (www.deniutemuster.com.au; hOct), attracting thousands for an action-packed weekend in their utes. Events include rodeos, chainsaw sculpturing, woodchopping, and kids' activities. The muster also draws big names in Australian music.
Across the Easter weekend, the Big Sky Blues & Roots Festival (www.bigskybluesfestival.com; hEaster weekend) presents an international and eclectic range of artists. Recent events have featured Elvis Costello and the ever-funky George Clinton.
5Eating
Banna Ave is lined with Italian eateries, and Indian restaurants also reflect Griffith's ethnic diversity.
RoasteryCAFE
(www.facebook.com/TheRoasteryGriffith; 232 Banna Ave; mains $12-24; h7am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-3pm Sat & Sun)
The Roastery sources its own beans from around the world and combines Griffith's best coffee and local Riverina wines with cafe favourites and counter food.
BelvedereITALIAN, PIZZA
(www.facebook.com/Belvedereristorante; 494 Banna Ave; pizzas $14-30, mains $18-30; hnoon-late Tue-Sun)
Our favourite pizza spot in town, plus the surprise of its very own Tresetti craft lager.
La ScalaITALIAN
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6962 4322; 455b Banna Ave; mains $26-30; h6-9.30pm Tue-Sat)
Expect old-school recipes, mural-covered walls and cheap house white by the glass. Just brilliant.
7Shopping
Riverina GroveFOOD
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6962 7988; www.riverinagrove.com.au; 4 Whybrow St)
From marinated feta and olive oils to homemade jams and chutney. Lots of free tastings, too.
8Information
Various farms and vineyards provide year-round harvest jobs. Ask at the visitor centre.
Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6962 4145; www.visitgriffith.com.au; cnr Banna & Jondaryan Aves)
Bookings and information.
8Getting There & Around
Rex (%13 17 13; www.rex.com.au) flies to Sydney (from $173, 1¼ hours).
All buses stop at the visitor centre, except NSW TrainLink ones, which stop at the train station. Services run to Melbourne ($80, 9½ hours) and Sydney ($70, 10¼ hours) via Mildura ($59, six hours) and Cootamundra ($28, 2¾ hours).
Snowy Mountains
The 'Snowies' form part of the Great Dividing Range where it straddles the NSW–Victorian border. They include the highest mountain on the Australian mainland, Mt Kosciuszko (koz-zy-os-ko), at 2228m. This is Australia's only true alpine area; snow falls from early June to late August. Summer is also a very pleasant time to visit.
8Getting There & Around
Cooma is the Snowy Mountains' eastern gateway, but to best experience the region, base yourself in Jindabyne – especially in summer – or in Thredbo and the ski fields.
If you're only going to ski, public transport is an option, but in summer you'll need a car to fully explore.
At the time of writing, there were no flights to the Snowy Mountains.
NSWTrainLink Links Cooma year-round to Canberra ($14, 1¼ hours) and Sydney Central ($53, seven hours). At the time of writing, buses linking Jindabyne with Canberra and Cooma were being trialled.
V/Line Buses from Canberra to Cooma ($13, 1¼ hours).
Snowliner Coaches Offers a public-accessible school run from Cooma to Jindabyne (adult/child $15/8) during NSW school terms.
Murrays Daily winter services including skiing packages from Sydney and Canberra.
Greyhound Similar itineraries and packages.
GreyhoundBUS
(%1300 GREYHOUND, 1300 4739 46863; www.greyhound.com.au)
Regular skiing packages from Sydney and Canberra across winter.
MurraysBUS
(%13 22 51; www.murrays.com.au)
Daily winter bus services including skiing packages from Sydney and Canberra.
NSW TrainLinkTRAIN
(%13 22 32; www.nswtrainlink.info)
Links Cooma year-round to Canberra ($14, 1¼ hours) and Sydney Central ($53, seven hours). At the time of writing, buses linking Jindabyne with Canberra and Cooma were being trialled.
Snowliner CoachesBUS
(%02-6452 1584; www.snowliner.com.au)
Offers a public-accessible school run from Cooma to Jindabyne (adult/child $15/8) during NSW school terms.
THE ALPINE WAY
From Jindabyne this spectacular route runs through Bullocks Flat, Thredbo Valley, Thredbo village and on through dense forest and the Kosciuszko National Park to Khancoban. The best mountain views are from Scammell's Lookout and Olsen's Lookout. All vehicles must carry chains in winter; check conditions at Khancoban or Jindabyne.
Jindabyne
Jindabyne is the closest town to Kosciuszko National Park's major ski resorts, and more than 20,000 visitors pack in over winter. In summer, the town assumes a more peaceful vibe, and fishing in the rivers and lake – and increasingly excellent mountain biking – are the mainstay activities.
2Activities
Sacred RideADVENTURE SPORTS
( GOOGLE MAP ; %1300 736 581, 02-6456 1988; www.sacredride.com.au; 6 Thredbo Tce)
Gear hire and activities including wake boarding, mountain biking, white-water rafting, abseiling, canoeing and kayaking. These are the guys to see regarding mountain biking.
Mountain Adventure CentreADVENTURE SPORTS
(%1800 623 459; www.mountainadventurecentre.com.au; Shop 5, Snowline Centre, cnr Kosciuszko & Thredbo Rds; h9am-4pm Nov-May, 8am-6pm Jun-Oct)
Outdoor gear for sale and hire, and adventure activities can be arranged. In summer, try mountain biking, canoeing or hiking, and winter offers cross-country skiing, telemarking and snowshoeing.
Discovery Holiday ParksBOATING
(%02-6456 2099; www.discoveryholidayparks.com.au; cnr Kosciuszko Rd & Alpine Way)
Motorboats, canoes and paddleboats for hire.
4Sleeping
Winter prices increase greatly, so book ahead. See Jindabyne & Snowy Mountains Accommodation Centre (%1800 527 622; www.snowaccommodation.com.au) and Visit Snowy Mountains (%02-6457 7132; www.visitsnowymountains.com.au) for holiday rentals.
Snowy Mountains BackpackersHOSTEL
(%1800 333 468; www.snowybackpackers.com.au; 7-8 Gippsland St; summer dm/d $25/60, winter dm $30-50, d $90-140; i)
This good-value place in the village has clean dorms, en suite rooms, sunny public spaces, and advice on transport and activities.
Banjo Paterson InnHOTEL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6456 2372; www.banjopatersoninn.com.au; 1 Kosciuszko Rd; r summer $100-130, winter $150-230)
The best rooms have balconies and lake views. Other facilities include a rowdy bar and microbrewery. Come winter, it's extremely popular.
5Eating
In winter, Italian, Indian, Japanese and Mexican flavours are all available, but fewer restaurants open during summer.
Red Door RoasteryCAFE
(www.facebook.com/TheRedDoorRoastery; Town Centre Mall; mains $9-16; h7.30am-3pm)
Grab an outdoor table with lake views and plan your day's adventure over 'Jindy's' best coffee and an all-day menu with a terrific breakfast wrap.
oWild Brumby Mountain SchnappsBISTRO
(www.wildbrumby.com; Alpine Way; mains $12-30; h10am-5pm)S
Located between Jindabyne and Thredbo, this is the place to go for punchy schnapps. Sit on the verandah and team a wheat beer with a cheese and charcuterie platter. Check online for occasional live music over summer.
oCafé DaryaMIDDLE EASTERN
(%02-6457 1867; www.cafedarya.com.au; Snowy Mountains Plaza; mezze $14, mains $29-32; h6-9pm Tue-Sat)
Fill up on slow-cooked lamb shank in Persian spices and rose petals or a rustic trio of dips. BYO beer and wine. Cash only.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Banjo Patterson InnMICROBREWERY, BAR
(www.banjopatersoninn.com.au; 1 Kosciuszko Rd)
Kosciuszko Pale Ale is brewed on site, and there's decent food at Clancy's Bistro. Hitting the dance floor at the winter-only Banjo's Nightclub completes a big night out.
8Information
Snowy Region Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(%02-6450 5600; www.environment.nsw.gov.au; Kosciuszko Rd; h9am-4pm)
Operated by the NPWS with display areas, a cinema and cafe. Ask about fishing, and winery and brewery visits.
SKIING THE SNOWYS
The ski season at Thredbo ( GOOGLE MAP ; %1300 020 589; www.thredbo.com.au) and the Snowy's other ski areas of Perisher Blue (%02-6459 4495, 1300 369 909; www.perisherblue.com.au) and Charlotte Pass ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.charlottepass.com.au) is usually from early June to late August.
Thredbo's terrains suit skiers of all experiences. Options include the Supertrail (3.7km), the easy Village Trail (5km), or the challenging Karels T-Bar (5.9km).
Perisher Valley, Smiggin Holes, Mt Blue Cow and Guthega make up Perisher Blue.
At the base of Mt Kosciuszko, Charlotte Pass is one of the highest, oldest and most isolated ski resorts in Australia. It's also a good base for summer activities.
Kosciuszko National Park
Covering 673,492 hectares and stretching for 150km, this is the jewel in NSW's national-park crown.
In spring and summer, walking trails and camp sites are framed by alpine flowers. Caves, limestone gorges, historic huts and homesteads also feature, and cycling and mountain biking are very popular.
If you're driving straight through the park, no park fees are payable, but if you're overnighting or driving beyond Jindabyne towards Charlotte Pass, the fee is $16 per vehicle per 24 hours.
Thredbo
At 1370m, Thredbo is oft lauded as Australia's number-one ski resort. A smattering of worthwhile summer activities also feature.
1Sights & Activities
Thredbo Landslide MemorialMEMORIAL
(Bobuck Lane)
This memorial can be seen along Bobuck Lane where the two lodges, Carinya and Bimbadeen, were destroyed in a 1997 landslide. The 18 posts supporting the platform signify the 18 lives tragically lost.
BobsledADVENTURE SPORTS
(1/6/10 rides $7/36/50; h10am-4.30pm year-round)
Seven-hundred-metre, luge-style track down the mountain.
Kosciuszko Express ChairliftCHAIRLIFT
(day pass adult/child return $34/18; hyear-round)
Ascends 560m. Climbing Mt Kosciuszko is possible from the top station.
Thredbo Snow Sports Outdoor AdventuresADVENTURE SPORTS
(%02-6459 4100; www.thredbo.com.au)
Winter alpine adventures.
K7 Kosciuszko AdventuresADVENTURE SPORTS
(%0421 862 354; www.k7adventures.com)
Summer and winter adventures.
CLIMBING AUSTRALIA'S HIGHEST MOUNTAIN
Australia's highest mountain is relatively easy to climb, although getting to the top can still be strenuous. Hiking is possible when there's no snow, but weather conditions can be changeable throughout the year.
Guided options include the Mt Kosciuszko Day Walk (www.thredbo.com.au; adult/child/family $44/30/88; h10am-3.30pm Tue, Thu & Sat late Oct-late Apr) or the Sunset Tour (www.thredbo.com.au; adult $93; hspecific days around Christmas & New Year).
Solo options are as follows:
Mt Kosciuszko Track From Thredbo, take the Kosciuszko Express Chairlift. From the top of the lift it's a steep 13km-return climb to the summit and back.
Summit Walk Drive to the end of the paved road above Charlotte Pass, then follow a wide gravel track. It's a 9km climb to the summit (18km return), including a steep final climb.
Main Range Track Also beginning above Charlotte Pass, this strenuous 20km loop includes minor creeks en route.
4Sleeping
Thredbo YHA LodgeHOSTEL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6457 6376; www.yha.com.au; 8 Jack Adams Path; summer tw $99, dm/tw without bathroom $35/85; i)
Thredbo's best budget option with great common areas. Rates surge in winter and adults must be YHA members.
Candlelight LodgeLODGE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6457 6318, 1800 020 900; www.candlelightlodge.com.au; 32 Diggings Tce; s/d winter from $210/250, summer from $135/180; W)
This Tyrolean lodge has great rooms, all with views. The restaurant's fondue (winter only) is fabulous.
oLake Crackenback ResortRESORT, LODGE
(%1800 020 524; www.lakecrackenback.com.au; 1650 Alpine Way; r from $255; aiWs)
Apartments and chalets are classy at this lakeside spa resort, the restaurants are excellent, and plenty of activities are on offer throughout winter and summer.
5Eating & Drinking
Gourmet 42CAFE
( GOOGLE MAP ; 100 Mowamba Pl, Village Sq; mains $12-19; h7.30am-3pm)
Hungover snowboarders and sleepy bar staff rock up for coffee, soup and pasta.
KnickerbockerMODERN AUSTRALIAN
(%02-6457 6844; www.jeanmichelknickerbocker.com.au; Diggings Tce; mains $32-33; hnoon-2pm Sat & Sun, 6pm-late Wed-Sun)
Sit indoors for alpine cosiness, or rug up on the deck with brilliant views. Seriously gourmet meals go down well after drinks in the bar (from 4pm).
8Information
Thredbo Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(%02-6459 4294; www.thredbo.com.au; Friday Dr; h9am-5pm summer, 8am-6pm winter)
Bookings and information.