American River
Pop 230
Between Penneshaw and Kingscote, on the way to nowhere in particular, American River squats redundantly by the glassy Pelican Lagoon. The town was named after a crew of American sealers who built a trading schooner here in 1804. There's no such industriousness here today, just a general store and a gaggle of pelicans.
From the end of Scenic Dr, a coastal walk (2km one way) passes through natural scrub, sugar gums and she-oak en route to some old fish-cannery ruins.
4Sleeping & Eating
American River Camping GroundCAMPGROUND
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8553 4500; www.kangarooisland.sa.gov.au; Tangara Dr, American River; unpowered/powered sites per 2 people $15/25, extra person $5)
Shady, council-run camping by the lagoon, with fire pits, showers, toilets and a nifty BBQ hut. Pay via self-registration.
Mercure Kangaroo Island LodgeMOTEL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %1800 355 581, 08-8553 7053; www.kilodge.com.au; Lot 2, Scenic Dr, American River; d incl breakfast from $180; aiWs)
Up-to-scratch motel suites overlooking either the pool or lagoon (the rammed-earth wing has the best rooms). The restaurant plates up buffet breakfasts and dinners featuring lots of local seafood (mains $20 to $30, serving 7.30am to 9am and 6pm to 8.30pm).
Island Coastal UnitsMOTEL, CABINS
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8553 7010; www.kangarooislandcoastalunits.com.au; Tangara Dr, American River; units/cabins from $100/120, extra person $20)
A low row of basic one- and two-bedroom motel-style units among trees opposite the foreshore, plus four beautiful self-contained cabins with solar hot water, gas cooktops and air-con (pay the extra $20!). Minimum two-night stay.
Oyster Farm ShopSEAFOOD
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8553 7122; www.goodfoodkangarooisland.com/food/kio_shop.asp; 486 Tangara Dr, American River; meals $9-21; h11am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, kitchen to 2.30pm)
Run by a local oyster farm, this little shack acts as an outlet for sustainable seafood producers from all over KI. Oysters, marron, abalone, King George whiting…even barramundi, cooked into meals or takeaway uncooked. Get change from $10 for a dozen fresh unshucked oysters.
Kingscote
Pop 1700
Snoozy seaside Kingscote (pronounced 'kings-coat') is the main settlement on KI, and the hub of island life. It's a photogenic town with swaying Norfolk Island pines, a couple of pubs and some decent eateries.
1Sights & Activities
Kangaroo Island SpiritsDISTILLERY
(KIS; GOOGLE MAP ; www.kispirits.com.au; 856 Playford Hwy, Cygnet River; tastings free, bottles from $42; h11am-5pm Wed-Mon, daily during school holidays)
This fiesty little moonshiner makes small-batch gin with KI native juniper berries, plus vodka, brandy and liqueurs (pray the organic honey-and-walnut version hasn't sold out).
Island BeehiveAPIARY
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.island-beehive.com.au; 59 Playford Hwy, Kingscote; tours adult/child/family $4.50/3/13; h9am-5pm, tours every 30min 9.30am-3.30pm)
Runs factory tours where you can study up on passive, hard-working Ligurian bees and beekeeping, then stock up on by-products (bee-products?) including delicious organic honey and honeycomb ice cream. Tours for groups available.
Island Pure Sheep DairyDAIRY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.islandpure.com.au; 127 Gum Creek Rd, Cygnet River; tours adult/child/family $6.50/5.50/22; hnoon-4pm)
Near Cygnet River, 12km from Kingscote, this dairy features 1500 sheep lining up to be milked (from 2pm daily). Take a tour of the factory, which includes yogurt and cheese tastings (the haloumi is magic).
Pelican FeedingBIRDWATCHING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8553 3112; Kingscote Wharf, Kingscote; adult/child $5/3; h5pm)
Pull up a pew and watch the daily feeding frenzy of 20-something ravenous pelicans at Kingscote Wharf. The host is well protected – hatted, gloved and booted – and mic'd-up so you can hear the spiel above the voraciously snapping beaks.
Kingscote Tidal PoolSWIMMING
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.kangarooisland.sa.gov.au/page.aspx?u=222; Chapman Tce, Kingscote; hdaylight hours)F
Kingscote beaches are lousy for swimming: locals usually head 18km northwest to Emu Bay, or to this 50m tidal swimming pool, which has a couple of pontoons and grassy banks on which to sun yourself on.
4Sleeping & Eating
Kangaroo Island Central BackpackersHOSTEL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8553 2787; www.kicentralbackpackers.com; 19 Murray St, Kingscote; dm/d from $25/60; aW)
Just a couple of blocks from Kingscote's main strip, this small, innocuous hostel is clean and affordable, and has a cosy lounge, lush lawns and a beaut en suite double cabin out the back. It feels like staying at someone's house − good or bad, depending on how sociable you're feeling.
Kingscote Nepean Bay Tourist ParkCARAVAN PARK
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8553 2394; www.kingscotetouristpark.com.au; cnr First & Third Sts, Brownlow; unpowered/powered sites $34/40, cabins/units from $90/135; aW)
You'll find the standard gamut of caravan park delights behind the dunes in Brownlow, 3km southwest of Kingscote. You can walk back to Kingscote via a coastal walking trail. Better for camping than cabins.
Aurora Ozone HotelHOTEL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8553 2011, 1800 083 1331800 083 133 FREE; www.auroraresorts.com.au; cnr Commercial St & Kingscote Tce, Kingscote; d pub/motel from $162/248, 1-/2-/3-bed apt from $270/482/543; aiWs)
Opposite the foreshore with killer views, the 100-year-old Ozone pub has quality pub rooms upstairs, motel rooms, and stylish deluxe apartments in a new wing across the street. The eternally busy bistro (mains $20 to $48) serves meaty grills and seafood, and you can pickle yourself on KI wines at the bar.
Seaview MotelMOTEL, GUESTHOUSE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8553 2030; www.seaview.net.au; 51 Chapman Tce, Kingscote; guesthouse s/d $90/100, motel s/d $146/156, extra adult/child $25/15; aW)
It seems like this place is always full − a good sign! Choose from older-style 1929 guesthouse rooms with shared facilities (no air-con), or refurbished '80s motel rooms. Family-owned, and affordable by KI standards.
Kangaroo Island Fresh SeafoodsSEAFOOD
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.goodfoodkangarooisland.com/eatingout/kifreshseafood.asp; 26 Telegraph Rd, Kingscote; meals $8-16; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat)
This unassuming place attached to a petrol station has some of the best seafood you're ever likely to taste. Fat oysters go for around a dollar each, then there are all manner of cooked and fresh KI seafood packs and combos. Superb!
BellaITALIAN
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8553 0400; www.goodfoodkangarooisland.com/eatingout/bella.asp; 54 Dauncey St, Kingscote; pizzas $15-39, mains $26-32; h10am-late)
Sit inside or on the pavement, al fresco, at Bella, a cheery Italian cafe/restaurant/pizza bar. Pizzas start around lunchtime (eat in or takeaway); dinner is à la carte, featuring American River oysters, Spencer Gulf king prawns, local roo and whiting.
8Information
Natural Resources CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8553 4444; www.naturalresources.sa.gov.au/kangarooisland; 37 Dauncey St, Kingscote; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri)
Sells the Kangaroo Island Tour Pass and has info on national parks.
North Coast Road
Exquisite beaches (calmer than the south coast), bushland and undulating pastures dapple the North Coast Rd, running from Kingscote along the coast to the Playford Hwy 85km west (the bitumen expires at Emu Bay). There's not a whole lot to do here other than swan around on the beach − sounds good!
About 18km from Kingscote, Emu Bay is a holiday hamlet with a 5km-long, white-sand beach flanked by dunes − one of KI's best swimming spots. Around 36km further west, Stokes Bay has a penguin rookery and broad rock pool, accessible by scrambling through a 20m tunnel in the cliffs at the bay's eastern end (mind your head!). Beware the rip outside the pool.
The view as you look back over Snelling Beach from atop Constitution Hill is awesome! Continue 7km west and you'll hit the turn-off to Western River Cove, where a small beach is crowded in by sombre basalt cliffs. The ridge-top road in is utterly scenic (and steep).
4Sleeping & Eating
Western River Cove CampsiteCAMPGROUND
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8553 4500; www.kangarooisland.sa.gov.au; unpowered sites per 2 people $15, extra person $5)
It's a steep drive into this self-registration camp site, just a short walk from the beach and with a footbridge over the river (so tempting to dangle a line). There's a toilet block and a barbecue hut but no showers.
Emu Bay Holiday HomesCABINS, RENTAL HOUSE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8553 5241; www.emubaysuperviews.com.au; 21 Bayview Rd, Emu Bay; cabins $96, holiday homes $122-152, extra person $22; aW)
Great-value (if a little frilly) cabins and holiday homes in a large flower-filled garden on the hill above Emu Bay beach (great views!). The self-contained cabins (caravan-park cabins with a facelift, sans air-con) sleep four or six; the holiday homes sleep six or 10.
Waves & WildlifeCOTTAGES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8559 2232; www.wavesandwildlife.com.au; North Coast Rd, Stokes Bay; 1-/3-bedroom per 2 people from $125/145, extra person $20)
This phalanx of trim, tidy, newish cottages (built 2006) marches down a grassy hillside above Stokes Bay (love the tunnel and the rock pool!). There are one- and three-bedroom configurations, with full kitchens, sweeping views and kangaroos hopping around at dusk. Linen charges and minimum stays apply, but it's still good bang for your buck.
Lifetime Private RentalsRENTAL HOUSES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.life-time.com.au; North Coast Rd, Snelling Beach; d from $490; a)
Pricey but worth every penny, these four gorgeous self-contained stone-and-timber houses dot the hillsides above beautiful Snelling Beach (…actually, they're not that pricey if there's a few of you: from $510 for six people in three bedrooms). Expect decks, big windows, quirky artworks and knock-out views.
Rockpool CaféCAFE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8559 2277; www.facebook.com/therockpoolcafe; North Coast Rd, Stokes Bay; mains $15-28; h11am-5pm)
Don't worry about sandy feet at this casual, al fresco joint in Stokes Bay. 'What's the house special?', we asked. 'Whatever I feel like doin'!', said the chef (usually seafood, washed down with local wines and decent espresso).
South Coast Road
The south coast is rough and wave swept, compared with the north.
SOUTHERN OCEAN LODGE
Millionaires, start your engines! The shining star in the SA tourism galaxy is Southern Ocean Lodge ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8559 7347; www.southernoceanlodge.com.au; Hanson Bay Rd; d per night from $1050; aiWs), a sexy, low-profile snake tracing the Hanson Bay cliff-top – a real exercise in exclusivity. There's a two-night minimum stay; you get airport transfers, all meals and drinks, and guided tours of KI.
If you want a stickybeak, don't expect to see anything from the road: all you'll find is a steely set of gates and an unreceptive intercom: privacy is what guests are paying for here (Hey, wasn't that Teri Hatcher in that 4WD?). But you can catch a sneaky glimpse from Hanson Bay beach.
1Sights & Activities
Seal Bay Conservation ParkNATURE RESERVE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8553 4460; www.sealbay.sa.gov.au; Seal Bay Rd; guided tours adult/child/family $32/18/80 ; htours 9am-4pm year-round, extra tours Dec-Feb, twilight tours Oct-Mar)S
'Observation, not interaction' is the mentality here. Guided tours stroll along the beach (or boardwalk on self-guided tours; adult $15, child $9, family $40) to a colony of (mostly sleeping) Australian sea lions. Twilight tours December and January (adult $60, child $38, family $165). Bookings advised.
Clifford's Honey FarmFARM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cliffordshoney.com.au; 1157 Elsegood Rd, Haines; h9am-5pm)
It's almost worth swimming the Backstairs Passage for the honey ice cream (sourced from a colony of rare Ligurian bees) at this charming, uncommercial farm. A bit off the tourist radar (again, charming).
Kelly Hill Conservation ParkNATURE RESERVE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8553 4464; www.environment.sa.gov.au; South Coast Rd; tours adult/child/family $18/10/45, adventure caving adult/child $70/40; h10.15am-4.30pm )
This series of dry limestone caves was discovered in the 1880s by a horse named Kelly, who fell into them through a hole. Take the standard show cave tour (10.30am, then hourly 11am to 4pm), or add on an adventure caving tour (2.15pm; bookings essential). The Hanson Bay Walk (9km one way) runs from the caves past freshwater wetlands. There are extra show cave tours during school holidays.
Raptor DomainZOO
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.kangarooislandbirdsofprey.com.au; cnr South Coast & Seal Bay Rds; birds of prey adult/child/family $16.50/12/50, reptiles $12/10/35; h10.30am-4pm)
Check out some KI wedge-tailed eagles, barn owls and kookaburras at a one-hour birds-of-prey display (11.30am and 2.30pm), or go scaly at a one-hour lizards and snakes show (1pm).
4Sleeping & Eating
Western KI Caravan ParkCAMPGROUND
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8559 7201; www.westernki.com.au; 7928 South Coast Rd, Flinders Chase; unpowered/powered sites $25/30, cabins $110-190; a)
A few minutes' drive east of Flinders Chase National Park, this friendly park has shady gums and resident roos. Check out the koala and lagoon walks, and the phone booth inside an old bakery truck. The shop sells groceries, homemade heat-and-eats and (for guests only) beer and wine.
Flinders Chase FarmHOSTEL, CABINS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8559 7223; www.flinderschasefarm.com.au; 1561 West End Hwy, Karatta; dm/cabins $25/70, d/f with bathroom from $110/120)
A working farm with charm, a short drive from Flinders Chase National Park. Accommodation includes tidy dorms, a couple of cosy cabins and en suite rooms in a lodge. There's also a terrific camp kitchen, fire pits and 'tropical' outdoor showers.
Kangaroo Island Wilderness RetreatHOTEL, RESORT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8559 7275; www.kiwr.com; Lot 1, South Coast Rd, Flinders Chase; d/apt/ste from $175/182/256; aiW)
A low-key, log cabin–style resort on the Flinders Chase doorstep, with resident grazing wallabies. Accommodation ranges from basic motel-style rooms to flashy spa suites. There's also a petrol pump and a bar, and a restaurant (breakfast $15 to $25, 7.30am to 9.30am) and dinner (mains $24 to $36, 6pm to 8.30pm).
Marron CaféMODERN AUSTRALIAN
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8559 4114; www.andermel.com.au; 804 Harriet Rd, Central Kangaroo Island; mains $16-38; h11am-4.30pm Sep-Apr, noon-3.30pm May-Aug)
Around 15km north of Vivonne Bay you can check out marron in breeding tanks, then eat some! It's a subtle taste, not necessarily enhanced by the heavy sauces issued by the kitchen. There are steak and chicken dishes, too, for the crustacean-shy. Last orders 30 minutes before closing.
Flinders Chase National Park
Occupying the western end of the island, Flinders Chase National Park is one of SA's top national parks. Much of the park is mallee scrub, and there are also some beautiful, tall sugar-gum forests, particularly around Rocky River and the Ravine des Casoars, 5km south of Cape Borda. Pay your park entry fees at the Flinders Chase Visitor Information Centre.
1Sights & Activities
Once a farm, Rocky River ( GOOGLE MAP ) is now a rampant hotbed of wildlife, with kangaroos, wallabies and Cape Barren geese competing for your affections. A slew of good walks launch from behind the visitors centre, including the Rocky River Hike, on which you might spy a platypus (9km loop, three hours).
From Rocky River, a road runs south to a remote 1906 lighthouse ( GOOGLE MAP ) atop wild Cape du Couedic (pronounced 'coo-dick'). A boardwalk weaves down to Admirals Arch ( GOOGLE MAP ), a huge archway ground out by heavy seas, and passes a colony of New Zealand fur seals (sweet smelling they ain't…).
At Kirkpatrick Point, a few kilometres east of Cape du Couedic, the much-photographed Remarkable Rocks ( GOOGLE MAP ) are a cluster of hefty, weather-gouged granite boulders atop a rocky dome that arcs 75m down to the sea. Remarkable!
On the northwestern corner of the island, the 1858 Cape Borda Lightstation ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8559 3257; www.environment.sa.gov.au/parks; admission free, tours adult/child/family $14.50/9/38; h9am-5pm, tours 11am, 12.30pm & 2pm) stands tall above the rippling iron surface of the Southern Ocean. There are walks here from 1.5km to 9km, and extra tours at 3.15pm and 4pm during summer holidays.
At nearby Harvey's Return a cemetery speaks poignant volumes about the reality of isolation in the early days. From here you can drive to Ravine des Casoars ( GOOGLE MAP ) (literally 'Ravine of the Cassowaries', referring to the now-extinct dwarf emus seen here by Baudin's expedition). The challenging Ravine des Casoars Hike (8km return, four hours) tracks through the ravine to the coast.
4Sleeping & Eating
There are campgrounds at Rocky River ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; per person/car $10/28), Snake Lagoon ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; per person/car $7/13), West Bay ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; per person/car $7/13) and Harvey's Return ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; per person/car $7/13); book through the Department of Environment, Water & Natural Resources (DEWNR; %08-8553 4490; flinderschase@sa.gov.au).
There's also refurbished cottage accommodation at Rocky River − the budget Postmans Cottage (d $72) and family-friendly Mays Homestead (d $171) − and lightkeepers' cottages at Cape du Couedic and Cape Borda (d $48-219). Book online, by email or by phone through the Department of Environment, Water & Natural Resources (%08-8553 4410; www.environment.sa.gov.au).
On the food front, if you're not self-catering the only option here is the Chase Cafe ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8559 7339; www.thechasecafe.com.au; Flinders Chase Visitor Information Centre; meals $7-28; h9am-3.30pm) at the visitors centre, serving burgers, wraps, soup, coffee, and wines by the glass.
8Information
Flinders Chase Visitor Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8559 7235; www.environment.sa.gov.au/parks; South Coast Rd, Flinders Chase; park entry adult/child/family $10/6/27; h9am-5pm)
Info, maps and camping/accommodation bookings, plus a cafe and displays on island ecology.