Canberra & NSW South Coast

Canberra & NSW South Coast

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Why Go?

Journey south from Sydney through the raw beauty of stunning Royal National Park to emerge at laid-back Wollongong, a friendly city framed by excellent beaches and featuring good restaurants and an unpretentious but energetic after-dark scene.

Further south is a roll-call of relaxed coastal towns with a menu of easygoing activities. Go kayaking around Huskisson and Jervis Bay, spy on seals and penguins around Narooma, or learn to surf at Batemans Bay. Migrating whales are the attraction at pretty Eden near the New South Wales (NSW)–Victoria border, and NSW's colonial heritage is celebrated in food-obsessed Berry and sleepy Central Tilba.

Inland from coastal NSW, the stellar museums, galleries and public buildings of the modern city of Canberra tell the story of Australia with poignancy and passion. Emerging neighbourhoods in the national capital like New Acton, Braddon and the Kingston Foreshore are introducing a hip sheen with excellent cafes, bars and restaurants.

When to Go

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AFeb–May (except Easter) Sun’s still shining and kids are back at school.

AMay–Nov Spot whales along the coast.

ADec Enjoy an Aussie-style Christmas on the coast – seafood for lunch and beach cricket.

Canberra & the New South Wales South Coast Highlights

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1 Having kangaroos call in at your camp site in Murramarang National Park.

2 Exploring stunning Booderee National Park.

3 Hanging out with the seals and penguins at Montague Island.

4 Leaving footprints or kayaking around the beaches of Jervis Bay.

5 Understanding Australia's poignant military heritage at Canberra's Australian War Memorial.

6 Tapping into Canberra's urban scene in Braddon, New Acton and the Kingston Foreshore.

7 Watching whales pass by the postcard-pretty coastline around Eden.

8 Returning to the charming, wood-panelled past at Central Tilba.

9 Learning to surf like an Aussie at Batemans Bay.

8Getting There & Around

Air

The region's main airport is in Canberra and smaller airports are at Moruya and Merimbula.

Bus

Buses run between Canberra and the capital cities, and from the capital cities along the coast.

Car & Motorcycle

The quickest route between Canberra and the coast is the Kings Hwy. The Princes Hwy from Wollongong to Eden in the south is the main route for exploring the coast.

Train

Trains run between Canberra and Sydney. There are no direct trains between Canberra and Melbourne.

Canberra

Pop 381,488

Designed by visionary American architect Walter Burley Griffin, who was assisted by his wife Marion Mahony Griffin, Canberra features expansive open spaces, aesthetics influenced by the 19th-century arts and crafts movement and a seamless alignment of built and natural elements. Unfortunately, the city is totally geared towards the car – it's difficult to explore by public transport and almost impossible to do so on foot. You really need wheels (two or four) to do it justice, and the city's scenic hinterland also warrants exploration.

Though Canberra seems big on architectural symbolism and low on spontaneity, the city's cultural institutions have lively visitor and social programs, and there's a cool urban energy emerging in Braddon, New Acton and the Kingston Foreshore.

During parliamentary-sitting weeks the town hums with the buzz of national politics, but it can be a tad sleepy during university holidays, especially around Christmas and New Year.

History

The Ngunnawal people called this place Kanberra, believed to mean 'meeting place'. The name was probably derived from huge intertribal gatherings that happened annually when large numbers of Bogong moths appeared in the city.

The Ngunnawal's way of life was violently disrupted following European settlement around 1820, but they survived and have increased their profile and numbers.

In 1901 Australia's separate colonies were federated and became states. The rivalry between Sydney and Melbourne meant neither could become the new nation's capital, so a location between the two cities was carved out of the Limestone Plains in New South Wales (NSW) as a compromise. This new city was officially named Canberra in 1913, and replaced Melbourne as the national capital in 1927.

1Sights

Most sights are around Lake Burley Griffin.

icon-top-choiceoAustralian War MemorialMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6243 4211; www.awm.gov.au; Treloar Cres, Campbell; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm)icon-freeF

Canberra's most rewarding museum experience includes halls dedicated to WWI, WWII and conflicts from 1945 to the present day. A spectacular aircraft hall segues to sound-and-light shows staged in the massive Anzac Hall. Most exciting are Striking by Night, re-creating a WWII night operation over Berlin (staged on the hour), and Over the Front: the Great War in the Air (at a quarter past the hour).

Entry to the museum is via a Commemorative Courtyard with a roll of honour of the nation's war dead. Family members have attached bright-red paper poppies to the names of their fallen relatives. These poppies of remembrance reflect those that flowered on the battlegrounds of Belgium, France and Gallipoli in the spring of 1915.

Behind the courtyard is the mosaic-encrusted Hall of Memory. This is home to the Tomb of the Unknown Australian Soldier, representing all Australians who have given their lives during wartime.

Free guided tours leave from the main entrance's Orientation Gallery regularly. Alternatively, purchase the Self-Guided Tour leaflet with map ($5).

icon-top-choiceoNational Gallery of AustraliaGALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6240 6502; www.nga.gov.au; Parkes Pl, Parkes; admission costs for special exhibitions; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm)icon-freeF

Includes an extraordinary Aboriginal Memorial from Central Arnhem Land created for Australia's 1988 bicentenary. The work of 43 artists, this 'forest of souls' presents 200 hollow log coffins (one for every year of European settlement) and is part of an excellent collection of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander art. Also exhibited is Australian art from the colonial to contemporary period, and Australia's finest collection of Asian art. Notable Pacific art and standout European and American works complete an impressive collection.

Check the website for free guided tours.

icon-top-choiceoParliament HouseNOTABLE BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6277 5399; www.aph.gov.au; icon-hoursgifhfrom 9am Mon & Tue, from 8.30am Wed & Thu sitting days, 9am-5pm non-sitting days)icon-freeF

Opened in 1988, Australia's national parliament building is dug into Capital Hill, and has a grass-topped roof topped by an 81m-high flagpole. The rooftop lawns encompass 23 hectares of gardens and provide superb 360-degree views. Underneath incorporates 17 courtyards, an entrance foyer, the Great Hall, the House of Representatives, the Senate and seemingly endless corridors. Visit on a free guided tour (30 minutes on sitting days, 45 minutes on non-sitting days); these leave at 9.30am, 11am, 1pm, 2pm and 3.30pm.

Visitors can also self-navigate and watch parliamentary proceedings from the public galleries. Tickets for Question Time (2pm on sitting days) in the House of Representatives are free but must be booked through the Sergeant at Arms; tickets aren't required for the Senate chamber. See the website for a calendar of sitting days.

icon-top-choiceoNational Portrait GalleryGALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6102 7000; www.portrait.gov.au; King Edward Tce, Parkes; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm)icon-freeF

This gallery tells the story of Australia through its faces – from wax cameos of Aboriginal tribespeople to colonial portraits of the nation's founding families and contemporary works such as Howard Arkley's Day-Glo portrait of musician Nick Cave. There is a good cafe for post-exhibition coffee and reflection.

icon-top-choiceoNational ArboretumGARDENS, VIEWPOINT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.nationalarboretum.act.gov.au; Forest Dr, off Tuggeranong Parkway; icon-hoursgifh6am-8.30pm)icon-freeF

Located on land previously impacted by bushfires, Canberra's National Arboretum is an ever-developing showcase of trees from around the world. It is early days for many of the plantings, but it's still worth visiting the spectacular visitor centre, and for excellent views over the city. Regular guided tours are informative, and there is a brilliant adventure playground for kids.

Catch bus 81 (weekdays) or bus 981 (weekends) from the Civic bus interchange.

Museum of Australian DemocracyMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6270 8222; www.moadoph.gov.au; Old Parliament House, 18 King George Tce, Parkes; adult/concession/family $2/1/5; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm)

The seat of government from 1927 to 1988, this building offers visitors a whiff of bygone parliamentary activity. It's most meaningful for those who have studied Australian history or closely followed political high jinks in Canberra, but still rewarding for other visitors. Displays cover Australian prime ministers, the roots of global and local democracy, and the history of local protest movements. You can also visit the old Senate and House of Representative chambers, the parliamentary library and the prime minister's office.

Aboriginal Tent EmbassyHISTORIC SITE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

The lawn in front of Old Parliament House is home to the Aboriginal Tent Embassy – an important site in the struggle for equality and representation for Indigenous Australians.

Lake Burley GriffinLANDMARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

The 35km shore of this lake is home to most of the city's cultural institutions. It was filled by damming the Molonglo River in 1963 with the 33m-high Scrivener Dam, and was named after American architect Walter Burley Griffin, who won an international competition with his wife – and fellow architect – to design Australia's new capital city in 1911. Highlights include the National Carillon ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6257 1068) and the Captain Cook Memorial Water Jet ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-hoursgifh10am-noon & 2-4pm, plus 7-9pm daylight-saving months).

Reconciliation PlacePARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

On the shore of Lake Burley Griffin, the artwork of Reconciliation Pl represents the nation's commitment to the cause of reconciliation between Indigenous and non-Indigenous Australians.

National Museum of AustraliaMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6208 5000; www.nma.gov.au; Lawson Cres, Acton Peninsula; admission to permanent collection free, guided tours adult/child/family $10/5/25; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm)icon-freeF

With exhibits organised chronologically, some visitors find this museum exhilarating while others find it annoying. Exhibits focus on environmental change, Indigenous culture, national Australian icons and much more. Don't miss the introductory film, shown in the small rotating Circa Theatre. Bus 7 (weekdays) and bus 934 (weekends) run here from Civic, and the museum is also on the route of the Canberra City Explorer.

National Film & Sound ArchiveMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6248 2000; www.nfsa.gov.au; McCoy Circuit, Acton; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Fri)icon-freeF

Set in a delightful art deco building, this archive preserves Australian moving-picture and sound recordings. There are also temporary exhibitions, talks and film screenings in the Arc Cinema ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; adult/concession $10/8).

Australian National Botanic GardensGARDENS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6250 9540; www.anbg.gov.au; Clunies Ross St, Acton; icon-hoursgifh8.30am-5pm Feb-Dec, 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 8pm Sat & Sun Jan, visitor centre 9.30am-4.30pm)icon-freeF

On Black Mountain's lower slopes, these 90-hectare gardens showcase Australian floral diversity. Self-guided trails include the Joseph Banks Walk, and there's a 90-minute return trail from near the eucalypt lawn leading into the garden's higher areas before continuing into the Black Mountain Nature Park and on to the summit.

The visitor centre is the departure point for free guided walks at 11am and 2pm. On weekends, an electric bus negotiates the Flora Explorer Tour (adult/child $6/3; icon-hoursgifh10.30am & 1.30pm Sat & Sun).

Telstra TowerVIEWPOINT

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6219 6111; www.telstratower.com.au; Black Mountain Dr; adult/child & concession $7.50/3; icon-hoursgifh9am-10pm)

Black Mountain (812m), northwest of the city, is topped by the 195m-high Telstra Tower, which has a great vista from 66m up its shaft.

National Library of AustraliaLIBRARY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6262 1111; www.nla.gov.au; Parkes Pl, Parkes; icon-hoursgifhTreasures Gallery 10am-5pm, reading room 10am-8pm Mon-Thu, 10am-5pm Fri, 1.30-5pm Sun)icon-freeF

This library has accumulated over six million items since being established in 1901; most can be accessed in the reading rooms. Don't miss the Treasures Gallery, where artefacts such as Captain Cook's Endeavour journal and Captain Bligh's list of mutineers are among the regularly refreshed display – free 40-minute tours are held at 10.30am daily and at 11.30am on Monday, Wednesday and Friday.

National Capital ExhibitionMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6272 2902; www.nationalcapital.gov.au; Barrine Dr, Commonwealth Park; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun)icon-freeF

Learn about the Indigenous peoples of the Canberra area and see copies of exquisite Burley Griffin drawings of the city at this modest museum near Regatta Point.

QuestaconMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6270 2800; www.questacon.edu.au; King Edward Tce, Parkes; adult/child $20.50/15; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm)

This kid-friendly science centre has educational and fun interactive exhibits. Explore the physics of sport, athletics and fun parks, cause tsunamis, and take shelter from cyclones and earthquakes. Exciting science shows, presentations and puppet shows are all included.

National Zoo & AquariumZOO, AQUARIUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6287 8400; www.nationalzoo.com.au; 999 Lady Denman Dr, Yarralumla; adult/child/family $38/21.50/105; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm)

Book ahead to cuddle a cheetah ($175), get close to a red panda, white lion or giraffe (from $50), or take a tour behind the scenes to hand feed lions, tigers and bears (from $120). Bus 81 from the Civic interchange stops close by on weekends only.

Mt AinslieVIEWPOINT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Northeast of the city, 843m-high Mt Ainslie has fine views day and night. Walking tracks start behind the War Memorial, climb Mt Ainslie and end at Mt Majura (888m).

2Activities

Canberra's lakes and mountains offer bushwalking, swimming, cycling and other activities.

Lake Burley GriffinBOATING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6249 6861; www.actboathire.com; Acton Jetty, Civic; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-6pm Sat & Sun)

Canoe, kayak and paddleboat hire ($15 to $30 per hour).

Bushwalking

Tidbinbilla Nature Reserve, southwest of the city, has walking and bicycle tracks, a eucalypt forest and a platypus habitat. Also good for bushwalking is Namadgi National Park, 30 minutes south of Canberra.

Cycling

Canberra has an extensive network of dedicated cycle-paths. The Canberra & Region Visitors Centre stocks the Lake Burley Griffin Cycle Routes brochure and the Walking & Cycling Map published by Pedal Power ACT (http://pedalpower.org.au).

Mr Spokes Bike HireBICYCLE RENTAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6257 1188; www.mrspokes.com.au; Barrine Dr, Acton; per hour/half day/full day $20/30/40; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Wed-Sun, daily during school holidays)

Near the Acton Park ferry terminal.

Real FunBICYCLE RENTAL

(icon-phonegif%0410 547 838; www.realfun.com.au)

Delivers bicycles (per day/week $45/95) to your door.

TTours

Balloon AloftBALLOONING

(icon-phonegif%02-6249 8660; www.canberraballoons.com.au; Kallaroo Rd, Pialligo; rides adult/child from $290/210)

Aerial views over Canberra – the ideal way to understand the city's unique design.

Canberra City ExplorerBUS TOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9567 8400; www.canberracityexplorer.com.au; departs Melbourne Bldg, Northbourne Ave; 24hr adult/child $35/20, 48hr $60/30; icon-hoursgifh9am-6pm)

Handy hop-on hop-off service with 13 stops.

Southern Cross Yacht ClubCRUISE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6273 1784; www.cscc.com.au; 1 Mariner Pl, Yarralumla; from $15)

Lake cruises, including lunch and dinner options.

Lake Burley Griffin CruisesCRUISE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0419 418 846; www.lakecruises.com.au; adult/child $18/9; icon-hoursgifhmid-Oct–mid-May)

Informative lake cruises.

zFestivals & Events

See www.events.act.gov.au.

National Multicultural FestivalCULTURAL

(www.multiculturalfestival.com.au; icon-hoursgifhFeb)

Three days of art, culture and food.

Royal Canberra ShowAGRICULTURAL SHOW

(www.canberrashow.org.au; icon-hoursgifhlate Feb)

The country comes to town.

EnlightenCULTURAL

(www.enlightencanberra.com.au; icon-hoursgifhearly March)

Events and experiences showcasing 'Canberra in a whole new light'.

Canberra FestivalART, CULTURAL

(www.events.act.gov.au; icon-hoursgifhMarch )

Canberra's annual birthday party.

Canberra Balloon SpectacularBALLOONING

(www.balloonspectacular.com.au; icon-hoursgifhMarch)

Hot-air balloons fill the lawns in front of Old Parliament House.

National Folk FestivalART, CULTURAL

(www.folkfestival.asn.au; icon-hoursgifhEaster)

One of Australia's largest folk festivals.

Canberra District Wine Harvest FestivalWINE

(www.canberrawines.com.au; icon-hoursgifhApril)

Wine, food and music.

Canberra International Music FestivalMUSIC

(www.cimf.org.au; icon-hoursgifhMay)

Classical music in iconic Canberra locations and buildings.

FloriadeFLOWER SHOW

(www.floriadeaustralia.com; icon-hoursgifhSep-Oct)

Celebrating the city's spectacular spring flowers.

4Sleeping

Canberra's accommodation is busiest during parliamentary sitting days. Hotels charge peak rates mid-week, but drop rates at weekends. Peak rates also apply during the Floriade festival.

North of Lake Burley Griffin

Canberra City YHAHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6248 9155; www.yha.com.au; 7 Akuna St, Civic; dm $36-45, d & tw $118, f $144-200; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

School groups often stay at this hostel. Most rooms and dorms use shared bathrooms, although family rooms have private facilities. Amenities include bike hire ($25 per day), a small indoor pool, sauna, kitchen, an outdoor terrace and a cafe.

QT CanberraBOUTIQUE HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6247 6244; www.qtcanberra.com.au; 1 London Circuit, New Acton; d $155-255)

A playful irreverence towards politics underscores the spectacular lobby, and very comfortable rooms are trimmed with cool design touches like retro postcards of past Aussie prime ministers. Downstairs the country's political movers and shakers do their finest House of Cards impressions in the Capitol Bar & Grill.

icon-top-choiceoHotel HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6287 6287; www.hotel-hotel.com.au; 25 Edinburgh Ave, New Acton; r $228-340)

Hotel Hotel's spectacular exterior translates to an equally hip interior. Rooms are quirkily decorated, and while the (very) subdued lighting isn't to everyone's taste, we're big fans of the hotel's audacious and dramatic ambience. Reception is filled with nooks, crannies and mini-libraries, and Hotel Hotel's Monster Kitchen & Bar is equally interesting.

South of Lake Burley Griffin

Victor LodgeGUESTHOUSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6295 7777; www.victorlodge.com.au; 29 Dawes St, Kingston; with shared bathroom s from $89, d & tw $116; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

Adjacent to good cafes and restaurants in Kingston, Victor Lodge features simply furnished and compact rooms. There's a kitchen, a barbecue area, continental breakfasts and bicycle hire.

Blue & White LodgeB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6248 0498; www.blueandwhitelodge.com.au; 524 Northbourne Ave, Downer; s/d from $90/100; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

This Mediterranean-style B&B has spotless and comfortable rooms, some with shared bathrooms, and a cooked breakfast is just $10. The owners also manage neighbouring Canberran Lodge. Buses to the city are nearby.

icon-top-choiceoEast HotelHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6295 6925, 1800 816 469; www.easthotel.com.au; 69 Canberra Ave, Kingston; studio r $265-320, apt $315-270; icon-parkgifpicon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

Straddling the divide between boutique and business, East Hotel offers stylishly executed spaces. Rooms feature a work desk, iPod dock, espresso machine and fully equipped kitchenette, and family rooms come complete with Xbox and beanbags. Next door is the chic Ox Eatery and a bar.

Burbury HotelHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6173 2700; www.burburyhotel.com.au; 1 Burbury Close, Barton; r $200-285, apt $300-380; icon-parkgifpicon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

This business hotel offers rooms and one- and two-bedroom suites. The decor is neutral and relaxing, and rooms are pleasantly light. Adjacent recently completed apartments are excellent for families, and the complex also includes two impressive Asian restaurants.

York CanberraAPARTMENT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6295 2333; www.yorkcanberra.com.au; 31 Giles St, Kingston; r $250, 1-bed apt $275, 2-bed apt $350; icon-parkgifpicon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

Located near Kingston's cafes and restaurants, the York is an excellent choice for families. It offers well-sized suites and apartments, some with fully equipped kitchens and washing machine/dryer, and the rest with kitchenettes.

5Eating

Established dining hubs include Civic, Kingston, Manuka and Griffith, and there are good Asian eateries in Dickson. New Acton, the Kingston Foreshore development south of the lake, and Lonsdale St in Braddon, are emerging areas. Note many restaurants close on Sunday and Monday.

North of Lake Burley Griffin

Lonsdale Street RoastersCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://lonsdalestreetroasters.com; Shop 3, 7 Lonsdale St, Braddon; icon-hoursgifh6.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat, 8am-2pm Sun)

In hip Braddon, this grungy-chic cafe serves up damn fine coffee. There's another bigger branch ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 23 Lonsdale St; mains $9-22; icon-hoursgifh6am-4pm Mon-Wed, to 9.30pm Thu-Sat, 7am-7pm Sun ) just up the road with a big terrace and a great menu of cafe favourites.

Elk & PeaMEXICAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.elkandpea.com.au; 21 Lonsdale St, Braddon; tacos $7.50, shared plates $15-20; icon-hoursgifh8am-10pm Tue-Sun, to 3pm Mon)

Say hola to another new opening along ever-evolving Lonsdale St. Mexican influences include spicy huevos rancheros eggs for brekkie, burgers and burritos for lunch, and Canberra's best tacos for dinner. Breakfast martinis and gazpacho Bloody Marys will give you a morning pick-me-up, and live music bubbles away from 3pm on Saturdays.

icon-top-choiceoTemporadaSPANISH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.temporada.com.au; 15 Moore St, Civic; small plates $8-15, large plates $20-36; icon-hoursgifhnoon-late Mon-Sat)

Spanish flavours dominate at our favourite new Canberra restaurant, and the chefs are keen to demonstrate their skill with wood-fired food. Oysters come out deliciously smokey, marinated lamb partners with grilled sausage and flatbread, and barbecued octopus is subtly refreshed with watermelon. Excellent cocktails, wines and Australian craft beers seal the deal.

icon-top-choiceoMočan & Green GroutCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.mocanandgreengrout.com; 1/19 Marcus Clarke St, New Acton; breakfast & lunch mains $9-16, dinner shared plates $16-25; icon-hoursgifh7am-6pm Mon, to 9pm Tue-Sat, 8am-4pm Sun; icon-wifigifW)

Often awash with morning sunshine, this New Acton cafe with an open kitchen is one of Canberra's best places to start the day. Free-range-this and local-that feature on the concise seasonal menu, and an espresso and the baked Tripoli eggs will really kickstart your morning. Dinner is served from Tuesday to Saturday with small-plate highlights including Japanese-influenced soft-shell crab.

Monster Kitchen & BarMODERN AUSTRALIAN, CAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.hotelhotel.com.au; Hotel Hotel, 25 Edinburgh Ave, New Acton; breakfast $11-24, bar snacks & shared plates $10-33; icon-hoursgifh6.30am-1am)

Concealed in the cool Hotel Hotel is one of Canberra's more versatile eateries. Hotel guests, New Acton trendies and politicians check their Twitter feeds over breakfast, before bar snacks and shared plates with a subtle Middle Eastern influence get everyone talking during lunch and dinner. At night it morphs into a bar (and a good place to overhear political gossip).

Lanterne RoomsMALAYSIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6249 6889; www.lanternerooms.chairmangroup.com.au; Shop 3, Blamey Pl, Campbell; lunch banquet $33.50, dinner mains $30-35; icon-hoursgifhnoon-2.30pm & 6-10.30pm Tue-Fri, 6-10.30pm Sat)

Serving expertly cooked Nyonya dishes in a colourful interior referencing Penang farmhouses from the colonial era, Lanterne Rooms is sophisticated and welcoming.

Sammy's KitchenMALAYSIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6247 1464; www.sammyskitchen.com.au; 9 Bunda St, Civic; mains $10-25; icon-hoursgifh11.30am-10pm)

Sammy's is a long-standing local favourite serving up cheap and plentiful Chinese and Malay dishes. No frills, but lots of fun.

Malaysian ChapterMALAYSIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6251 5670; www.malaysianchapter.com.au; 6 Weedon Close, Bencoolen; mains $15-20, set menu per person $26; icon-hoursgifhnoon-2pm & 5.30-9pm Tue-Sat, 5.30-9pm Mon)

Fans of home-style Malaysian food should definitely make the trek – around 10km northwest from Civic – to this unassuming, family-run spot in Bencoolen Mall. Highlights include a zingy tamarind-based fish and excellent satay that conjures up memories of lazy nights in Penang's hawker centres. Leave room for dessert including cooling sago incorporating pandan, coconut and palm sugar.

Sage Dining RoomFRENCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6249 6050; www.sagerestaurant.net.au; Batman St, Braddon; 3-/5-course meals $75/95; icon-hoursgifhnoon-2pm & 5.30-10pm Tue-Sat)

In the Gorman House Arts Centre, Sage is the home kitchen of French chef Clement Chauvin who once graced the kitchen at London's Claridges, and Maison Pic in France. Subtle French plays on local ingredients make for exquisite tastes.

South of Lake Burley Griffin

BrodburgerBURGERS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6162 0793; www.brodburger.com.au; Glassworks Bldg, 11 Wentworth Ave, Kingston; burgers $13-20; icon-hoursgifh11.30am-3pm & 5.30pm-late Tue-Sat, noon-4pm Sun)

Brodburger started as a lakeside caravan takeaway joint. Now it's got a permanent location, but the flame-grilled burgers are as good as ever. Salmon, chicken and lamb ones all go well with Aussie beer and wine, but we can't go past the all-encompassing flavour-packed Brodeluxe.

Silo BakeryBAKERY, CAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6260 6060; http://silobakery.com.au; 36 Giles St, Kingston; breakfast $9-22, lunch $20-22; icon-hoursgifh7am-4pm Tue-Sat)

Sourghdough bread, pastries and tarts are perfect breakfast temptations, and filled baguettes, rustic mains and cheese platters keep diners happy at lunch. Good coffee and wines by the glass complete the package. Book for lunch.

MorksTHAI

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6295 0112; www.morks.com.au; Trevillian Quay, Kingston Foreshore; mains $24-28; icon-hoursgifhnoon-2pm & 6-10pm Tue-Sat, noon-2pm Sun)

Our favourite of the restaurants along the new Trevillian Quay development on the Kingston Foreshore, Morks offers a contemporary spin on Thai cuisine. Ask for a table outside, watch the punters shuffling to adjacent wholefood cafes, specialist coffee roasters and bustling bars, and enjoy the authentic Thai zip and zing of red duck curry or pork crackling with chilli jam.

OttomanTURKISH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6273 6111; www.ottomancuisine.com.au; cnr Broughton & Blackall Sts, Barton; mains $29-33, 7-course degustation menu $75; icon-hoursgifhnoon-2.30pm & 6-10pm Tue-Fri, 6-10pm Sat)

This splendid Turkish restaurant in a sprawling villa is a favourite destination for Canberra's power brokers. Traditional dishes (meze, dolma, kebabs) are given a cunning mod Oz twist. Look forward to exemplary service and an expansive wine list.

AubergineMODERN AUSTRALIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6260 8666; www.aubergine.com.au; 18 Barker St, Griffith; 4-course set menu $90; icon-hoursgifh6-10pm Mon-Sat)

Award-winning Aubergine's menu is exciting and perfectly balanced. Service and food presentation are assured, with the spacious and dramatic dining room showcasing innovative and seasonal dishes like roast duck with confit egg yolk.

MalamayCHINESE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6162 1220; http://malamay.chairmangroup.com.au; Burbury Hotel, 1 Burbury Close, Barton; mains $33-38, lunch banquet $42, dinner banquet $65.50; icon-hoursgifhnoon-2.30pm & 6-10.30pm Tue-Fri, 6-10.30pm Sat)

The spicy flavours of Sichuan cuisine entice at this restaurant. A glamorous interior fit out channels Shanghai circa 1930, and is a perfect setting for a leisurely set banquet or zesty mains, including lamb with cumin and chilli salt.

WINERIES OF THE ACT

Canberra's wine region produces high-country cool-climate wines with riesling and shiraz the star varietals.

See www.canberrawines.com.au or the Canberra District Wineries Guide map.

Brindabella Hills WineryWINERY

(icon-phonegif%02-6230 2583; www.brindabellahills.com.au; 156 Woodgrove Close, via Wallaroo Rd, Hall; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm Sat & Sun)

This sizeable vineyard near Hall has been operating for more than 20 years. Set on a beautiful ridge, it has won awards for its shiraz, cabernet sauvignon and riesling. Excellent tapas plates are also available.

Clonakilla WinesWINERY

(icon-phonegif%02-6277 5877; www.clonakilla.com.au; 3 Crisps Lane, Murrumbateman; icon-hoursgifhcellar door 10am-5pm)

Boutique winery producing a handful of highly sought varieties, including an award-winning shiraz viognier.

Eden Road WinesWINERY

(icon-phonegif%02-6226 8800; www.edenroadwines.com.au; 3182 Barton Hwy, Murrumbateman; icon-hoursgifhcellar door 11am-4pm Wed-Sun)

New winery producing fantastic shiraz.

Helm WinesWINERY

(icon-phonegif%02-6227 5953; www.helmwines.com.au; 19 Butts Rd, Murrumbateman; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm Thu-Mon)

The best rieslings produced in the region can be tasted in the pretty tasting room, a former schoolhouse built in 1888.

Lark HillWINERY

(icon-phonegif%02-6238 1393; www.larkhillwinery.com.au; 521 Bungendore Rd, Bungendore; icon-hoursgifh11am-4pm Wed-Mon)

Set high in the hills on the Lake George Escarpment overlooking Bungendore village, Lark Hill sells biodynamic wines and operates a vineyard restaurant for weekend lunches.

Wily Trout VineyardWINERY

(icon-phonegif%02-6230 2487; www.wilytrout.com.au; 431 Nanima Rd, Hall; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm)

Home to the popular Poachers Pantry with its smokehouse cafe.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Pubs and bars are concentrated in Civic and nearby around Lonsdale and Mort Sts in Braddon. The Kingston Foreshore area south of the lake is emerging.

icon-top-choiceoBentSpoke Brewing CoMICROBREWERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.bentspokebrewing.com.au; 38 Mort St, Braddon; icon-hoursgifh11am-midnight)

With 18 excellent beers and ciders on tap, BentSpoke is one of Australia's best craft brewers. Sit at the biking-themed bar or relax outside and kick things off with a tasting tray of four beers ($16). Our favourite is the Barley Griffin Ale, subtly tinged with a spicy Belgian yeast. Good pub food too.

Rum BarBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/therumbarcanberra; Trevillian Quay, Kingston Foreshore; icon-hoursgifh5-10pm Tue, from 3pm Wed-Fri, from noon Sat & Sun)

The city's biggest selection of rum combines with a cosmopolitan canal-front spot along the Trevillian Quay strip on the Kingston Foreshore. Cocktails, tapas and craft beer are additional drawcards, and other bars and pubs make the area a worthwhile after-dark or lazy afternoon destination.

Honky TonksBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.drinkhonkytonks.com.au; 17 Garema Pl, Civic; icon-hoursgifh4pm-late Mon-Thu, 2pm-late Fri-Sun)

Canberra's compadres meet up here to eat tacos, drink margaritas and listen to eclectic sets from the DJ. It's loads of fun.

Knightsbridge PenthouseCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6262 6221; www.knightsbridgepenthouse.com.au; 34 Mort St, Braddon; icon-hoursgifh5pm-midnight Tue & Wed, 5pm-late Thu-Sat)

Arty and gay-friendly, with good DJs, excellent cocktails and a mellow ambience.

Wig & PenMICROBREWERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/wigandpen.canberra; 100 Childers St, Llewellyn Hall; icon-hoursgifh11.30am-midnight Mon-Fri, 2pm-midnight Sat, 2-8pm Sun)

Long-standing Canberra brewpub now relocated on campus to the ANU's School of Music. Those lucky, lucky students...

PhoenixPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6247 1606; www.lovethephoenix.com; 23 East Row, Civic; icon-hoursgifhnoon-1am Mon-Wed, to 3am Thu-Sat)

The Phoenix is a staunch supporter of local music and has a laid-back and hip vibe.

3Entertainment

Entertainment listings are in Thursday's Canberra Times and on the BMA website (www.bmamag.com). Ticketek ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6219 6666; www.ticketek.com.au; Akuna St, Civic) sells tickets.

Palace Electric CinemaCINEMA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6222 4900; www.palacecinemas.com.au/cinemas/electric/; 2 Phillip Law St, NewActon Nishi)

Arthouse and independent movies with cheaper Monday tickets.

Canberra Theatre CentreTHEATRE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%box office 02-6275 2700; www.canberratheatre.org.au; London Circuit, Civic Sq, Civic; icon-hoursgifhbox office 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat)

Canberra's live theatre hub.

7Shopping

Canberra CentreMALL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6247 5611; www.canberracentre.com.au; Bunda St, Civic; icon-hoursgifh9am-5.30pm Mon-Thu, 9am-9pm Fri, 9am-5pm Sat, 10am-4pm Sun)

Canberra's premier shopping centre. Includes a multiscreen cinema.

Craft ACTHOMEWARES, JEWELLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6262 9993; www.craftact.org.au; 1st fl, North Bldg, 180 London Circuit, Civic; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm Tue-Fri, noon-4pm Sat)

Contemporary design store and exhibitions.

Old Bus Depot MarketsMARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6292 8391; www.obdm.com.au; 21 Wentworth Ave, Kingston; icon-hoursgifh10am-4pm Sun)

Arts, crafts, local artisan produce and regional wines.

National Library BookshopBOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6262 1424; http://bookshop.nla.gov.au; Parkes Pl, Parkes; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm)

Exclusively Australian books.

8Information

Canberra & Region Visitors CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1300 554 114, 02-6205 0044; www.visitcanberra.com.au; 330 Northbourne Ave, Dickson; icon-hoursgifh9am-4pm )

Around 3km north of Civic.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Qantas ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%13 13 13, TTY 1800 652 660; www.qantas.com.au; Jolimont Centre, Northbourne Ave, Civic) and Virgin Australia (www.virginaustralia.com.au) flights connect Canberra Airport ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-6275 2226; www.canberraairport.com.au) with all Australian state capitals.

Bus

The interstate bus terminal is at the Jolimont Centre.

Greyhound AustraliaBUS

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1300 4739 46863, 1300 GREYHOUND; www.greyhound.com.au; icon-hoursgifhJolimont Centre branch 6am-9.30pm)

Frequent services to Sydney ($42, 3½ hours) and Melbourne ($91, nine hours).

MurraysBUS

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%13 22 51; www.murrays.com.au; icon-hoursgifhJolimont Centre branch 7am-7pm)

Daily express services to Sydney ($42, 3½ hours), Batemans Bay ($30, 2½ hours), Narooma ($37, 4½ hours) and Wollongong ($47, 3½ hours) as well as the ski fields.

Car & Motorcycle

The Hume Hwy connects Sydney and Melbourne, passing 50km north of Canberra. The Federal Hwy runs north to connect with the Hume near Goulburn, and the Barton Hwy (Rte 25) meets the Hume near Yass. To the south, the Monaro Hwy connects Canberra with Cooma.

Train

Kingston train station ( GOOGLE MAP ; Wentworth Ave) is the city's rail terminus. Book trains and connecting buses inside the station.

NSWTrainLink trains run to/from Sydney ($40, 4½ hours, two to three daily). For Melbourne, a NSWTrainLink coach to Cootamundra ($14, 2½ hours) links with the Sydney-to-Melbourne train service ($75, six hours). A daily V/Line (icon-phonegif%13 61 96; www.vline.com.au) Canberra Link service combines a train from Melbourne to Albury Wodonga with a bus to Canberra ($55, 8½ hours).

8Getting Around

To/From the Airport

Canberra Airport is 8km southeast of the city. A taxi to the city centre costs around $50 to $55. Airport Express (icon-phonegif%1300 368 897; www.royalecoach.com.au; one way/return $12/20) runs between the airport and the city.

Public Transport

Canberra's public transport provider is the ACT Internal Omnibus Network (Action; icon-phonegif%13 17 10; www.action.act.gov.au; single trip adult/concession $4.60/2.30, daily pass $8.80/4.40) (Action). The main bus interchange is along Alinga St, East Row and Mort St. See the information kiosk ( GOOGLE MAP ; East Row, Civic; icon-hoursgifh7.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri) for route maps and timetables.

Purchase tickets from Action agents (including the visitors centre and newsagents), or on board from drivers.

Taxi

Canberra Elite TaxisTAXI

(icon-phonegif%13 22 27; www.canberracabs.com.au)

Canberra taxi service.

CabxpressTAXI

(icon-phonegif%02-6260 6011; www.cabxpress.com.au)

Canberra taxi service.

Around Canberra

The Canberra & Region Visitors Centre has maps and information.

Tidbinbilla & Namadgi

Tidbinbilla Nature ReserveNATURE RESERVE

(icon-phonegif%02-6205 1233; www.tidbinbilla.act.gov.au; per car $11; icon-hoursgifhvisitor centre 9am-5pm)

Located 45km southwest of Canberra, with bushwalking and wildlife including kangaroos and emus, and platypuses and lyrebirds at dusk. Check online for ranger-guided activities.

Namadgi National ParkNATIONAL PARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.tams.act.gov.au)

Namadgi is the Aboriginal word for the mountains southwest of Canberra, and this park includes eight peaks higher than 1700m. There's good bushwalking, mountain biking, fishing, horse riding and viewing of Aboriginal rock art. Make camping bookings online or at the Namadgi Visitor Centre (icon-phonegif%02-6207 2900; Naas Rd, Tharwa; icon-hoursgifh9am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 4.30pm Sat & Sun), 2km south of Tharwa.

Surrounding Towns & Villages

A number of NSW towns lie across the border. Around 15 minutes from Canberra along the Barton Hwy is Hall, where the Poachers Pantry (icon-phonegif%02-6230 2487; www.poacherspantry.com.au; Nanima Rd, Hall; icon-hoursgifhpantry 10am-5pm daily, smokehouse cafe noon-3pm Fri, 10-11.30am Sat & Sun) is renowned for cured meats and a smokehouse cafe.

Excellent wineries feature at Murrumbateman (30 minutes' drive from Canberra). Bungendore is 35km east of Canberra and bustles with visitors to its galleries and antique stores at weekends. The Bungendore Wood Works Gallery (icon-phonegif%02-6238 1682; http://bungendorewoodworks.com.au; cnr Malbon & Ellendon Sts, Bungendore; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm) showcases Australian timber and has a fine cafe, and there's good accommodation at the Old Stone House (icon-phonegif%02-6238 1888; www.theoldstonehouse.com.au; 41 Molonglo St, Bungendore; r $220; icon-acongifa).

Wollongong

Pop 292,190

The 'Gong', 80km south of Sydney, is the envy of many cities. Restaurants, bars, arts, culture and entertainment all combine with a laid-back beachy lifestyle, and the bright lights of Sydney are easily accessible by local rail.

There are 17 patrolled beaches and a spectacular sandstone escarpment running from the Royal National Park south past Wollongong and Port Kembla.

Grand Pacific Dr showcases excellent surf, safe beaches, bushwalking and sky-high adventures.

16-wollongong-aus18

Wollongong

2Activities, Courses & Tours

5Eating

11CaveauA3

6Drinking & Nightlife

1Sights

Belmore BasinHARBOUR, PORT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Wollongong’s fishing fleet is based at the harbour's southern end. The basin was cut from solid rock in 1868. There’s a fishing cooperative and an old lighthouse ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) (built in 1872) on the point. Nearby, on the headland, is the newer Breakwater Lighthouse ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ).

Science Centre & PlanetariumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-4283 6665; http://sciencecentre.uow.edu.au; Squires Way, Fairy Meadow; adult/child $13/9; icon-hoursgifh10am-4pm)

Quizzical kids of all ages can indulge their senses here. It’s operated by the University of Wollongong and covers everything from dinosaurs to electronics. Planetarium shows ($4) run throughout the day.

Wollongong Botanic GardensGARDENS

( GOOGLE MAP ; 61 Northfields Ave, Keiraville)icon-freeF

Habitats include tropical, temperate and woodland. A top spot for a picnic lunch.

Wollongong City GalleryGALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.wollongongcitygallery.com; cnr Kembla & Burelli Sts; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm Tue-Fri, noon-4pm Sat & Sun)icon-freeF

Modern Australian, Indigenous and Asian art, and diverse temporary exhibits.

Beaches

North Beach ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) generally has better surf than Wollongong City Beach ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ). The harbour's beaches are safer for children. North are the surfer magnets of Bulli, Sandon Point, Thirroul (where DH Lawrence lived during his time in Australia) and pretty Austinmer.

2Activities

Pines Surfing AcademySURFING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0410 645 981; www.pinessurfingacademy.com.au; North Beach; 3-day course $120, board hire 1-/3hr $20/30; icon-hoursgifhmid-Dec–late Jan)

Summer-only surf lessons and paddleboarding.

Sydney Hang Gliding CentreADVENTURE SPORTS

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0400 258 258; www.hanggliding.com.au; tandem flights from $245; icon-hoursgifh7am-7pm)

Tandem flights above the spectacular coastline from breathtaking Bald Hill at Stanwell Park.

Cockatoo RunSCENIC RAILWAY

(icon-phonegif%1300 653 801; www.3801limited.com.au; adult/child/family $60/50/175; icon-hoursgifh10.50am selected Sun, Wed & Thu)

Heritage tourist train traversing the escarpment and rainforest across the Southern Highlands to Moss Vale.

4Sleeping

Coledale Beach Camping ReserveCAMPGROUND

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-4267 4302; www.coledalebeach.com.au; Beach Rd; unpowered/powered sites from $25/30)

About 20 minutes north of Wollongong, wake up to great surf and the occasional company of dolphins and whales.

KeiraleaghHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-4228 6765; www.backpack.net.au; 60 Kembla St; dm/s/d from $24/55/75; icon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

This welcoming and rambling heritage house has basic dorms, a sizeable patio and a barbecue.

Beach Park Motor InnMOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-4226 1577; www.beachparkmotorinn.com.au; 16 Pleasant Ave; r $88-185; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

The friendly owners keep the slightly twee rooms in this white-brick establishment spick and span. It’s a short walk from the beach.

ChifleyHOTEL

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-4201 2111; www.silverneedlehotels.com; 60-62 Harbour St; r from $152)

Wollongong's newest hotel has ocean and golf-course views, tastefully designed rooms and shared public areas. Good beaches, pubs and restaurants are a short walk away.

5Eating

North of the Crown St mall, Keira St is Wollongong's main dining precinct. New cafes and restaurants have also opened around the Wollongong Central shopping centre on the corner of Crown and Keira Sts.

Balinese Spice MagicINDONESIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.balinesespicemagic.com.au; 130 Keira St; lunch $10-13, dinner $16-20; icon-hoursgifh11.30am-2.30pm Wed-Fri, 5.30-10pm Tue-Sat)

Look forward to excellent Indonesian food and welcoming service from the friendly family owners. Thai and Vietnamese eateries also line Keira St, but this is our pick of the best flavours to remind you of your time drifting aimlessly around Southeast Asia.

Lee & MeCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.leeandme.com.au; 87 Crown St; breakfast $11-16, lunch $11-16; icon-hoursgifh7am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8am-4pm Sat & Sun)

A cafe and art-and-clothing store in a two-storey, late-19th-century heritage building. Standout dishes include buttermilk-malt hotcakes or the classic beef burger.

DiggiesCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-4226 2688; www.diggies.com.au; 1 Cliff Rd; lunch $16-26, dinner $21-32; icon-hoursgifh6.30am-4pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat)

With a view to the rolling waves, this is the perfect spot for feasting any time of the day. From 4pm Sunday afternoon during summer, cocktails and tunes are let loose on the deck.

CaveauMODERN AUSTRALIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-4226 4855; www.caveau.com.au; 122-124 Keira St; 7-course degustation menu $99, with wine $145; icon-hoursgifh6-11pm Tue-Sat)

This lauded restaurant serves gourmet treats such as kingfish tartare and poached scampi. The menu changes seasonally and there's a three-course menu ($79) available from Tuesday to Thursday.

6Drinking & Entertainment

His Boy ElroyBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.hisboyelroy.com.au; Globe Lane; breakfast $11-16, snacks & burgers $6-19; icon-hoursgifh9am-10pm Sun, Wed & Thu, 8am-midnight Fri & Sat)

His Boy Elroy combines Asian and South American street food – think burgers, tacos and Vietnamese banh mi – with Australian craft beers, robust cocktails and a good wine list. Breakfasts are also very tasty. Check out the surrounding lane for more new bars and cafes.

Illawarra BreweryBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.thebrewery.net.au; cnr Crown & Harbour Sts; icon-hoursgifh11am-late)

This slick bar with ocean views has six craft beers on tap, plus occasional seasonal brews. Guest beers from around Australia complete a happy and hoppy picture, and there's decent food on tap as well.

Howlin' WolfBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 3/53-61 Crown St; icon-hoursgifh5-10pm Sun-Wed, to midnight Thu-Sat)

Live music, whisky and cider, tapas and a rockin' vibe. What more do you want?

8Information

Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1800 240 737; www.visitwollongong.com.au; 93 Crown St; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun)

Bookings and information.

8Getting There & Away

All long-distance buses leave from the eastern side of the railway station. Trains (icon-phonegif%13 15 00; www.sydneytrains.info) on the South Coast Line run to Sydney's Central Station ($8.10, 90 minutes).

MurraysBUS

(icon-phonegif%13 22 51; www.murrays.com.au)

Buses travelling to Canberra ($47.40, 3½ hours).

PremierBUS

(icon-phonegif%13 34 10; www.premierms.com.au)

Buses to Sydney ($18, two hours) and Eden ($69, eight hours).

8Getting Around

Bringing a bike on the train from Sydney is a great way to get around. A cycle path runs north to Bulli and south to Port Kembla.

For taxis, call 4229 9311.

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