Late at night while Derby sleeps, the boabs cut loose and wander around town, marauding mobs flailing their many limbs in battle against an army of giant, killer croc-people emerging from the encircling mudflats… If only.

There are crocs hiding in the mangroves, but you're more likely to see birds, over 200 different varieties, while the boabs are firmly rooted along the two main parallel drags, Loch and Clarendon Sts. Derby, sitting on King Sound, is the departure point for tours to the Horizontal Waterfalls and Buccaneer Archipelago, and the western terminus of the Gibb River Road (GRR).

Derby is West Kimberley's administrative centre, though the closure of the asylum seeker detention facility at nearby RAAF Curtin has seen an outflux of contract workers, freeing up stretched accommodation resources.

Derby to Fairfield-Leopold Downs Rd Junction

The first 100-odd kilometres of the Gibb River Road are now sealed.

King Leopold Ranges

Continuing along the Gibb River Road from Derby, the Windjana Gorge turn off at 119km is your last chance to head back to the Great Northern Hwy. The scenery improves after crossing the Lennard River into Napier Downs Station as the ancient King Leopold ranges loom straight ahead. Just after Inglis Gap is the Mt Hart turn off and another 7km brings the narrow Lennard River Gorge ( GOOGLE MAP ; p).

Imintji to Galvans Gorge

Despite its name March Fly Glen, 204km from Derby, is a pleasant, shady picnic area ringed by pandanus. Don't miss stunning Bell Gorge ( GOOGLE MAP ; per car $12; p), 29km down a rough track, with a picturesque waterfall and popular plunge pool. Refuel (diesel only), grab an ice cream and check your email at Imintji Store (%08-9191 7471; h8am-5pm dry season, shorter hours wet season; W).

Mt Barnett to Mt Elizabeth

Fuel up at Mt Barnett Roadhouse ( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9191 7007; h8am-5pm), 300km from Derby, and get your camping permit if choosing to stay at nearby Manning River Gorge.

Kalumburu Rd to Home Valley

At 406km from Derby you reach the Kalumburu turn off. Head right on the Gibb River Road, and continue through spectacular country, crossing the mighty Durack River then climbing though the Pentecost Ranges to 579km where there's panoramic views of the Cockburn Ranges, Cambridge Gulf and Pentecost River.

Pentecost River to Wyndham/Kununurra

At 589km from Derby you'll cross the infamous Pentecost River – take care as water levels are unpredictable and saltwater crocs lurk nearby. The last section of the Gibb River Road is sealed. The Emma Gorge turn off is 10km past El Questro; 630km from Derby you cross King River and at 647km you finally hit the highway – turn left for Wyndham (48km) and right to Kununurra (53km).

Fitzroy Crossing

Gooniyandi, Bunuba, Walmatjarri and Wangkajungka people populate the small settlement of Fitzroy Crossing where the Great Northern Hwy crosses the mighty Fitzroy River. There's little reason to stay other than it's a good access point for the Devonian Reef national parks. Check out Mangkaja Arts ( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9191 5833; www.mangkaja.com; 8 Bell Rd , Fitzroy Crossing; hnoon-4pm Mon-Fri) with its unique acrylics, and the exquisite glass and ceramics at Dr Sawfish (%0419 908 586; www.drsawfish.com; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, shorter hrs Sat & Sun), which is next to the tyre guy, whom you'll probably need. Camping and rooms are available at the atmospheric Crossing Inn (%08-9191 5080; www.crossinginn.com.au; Skuthorpe Rd; unpowered/powered sites $30/38, r from $195; ai) and across the river at the upmarket Fitzroy River Lodge ( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9191 5141; www.fitzroyriverlodge.com.au; Great Northern Hwy; camping per person $15, tent d $160, motel d $220; aiWs), which also offers decent counter meals ($22 to $36). There's a new, well-stocked supermarket, and the visitor centre (%08-9191 5355; www.sdwk.wa.gov.au; h8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri) and coach stop is just off the highway.

Mimbi Caves

Larrawa Station

Yiyilli

Halls Creek

On the edge of the Great Sandy Desert, Halls Creek is a small town with communities of Kija, Jaru and Gooniyandi people. The excellent visitor centre (%08-9168 6262; www.hallscreektourism.com.au; Great Northern Hwy; h7am-5pm) can book tours to the Bungles and tickets for Mimbi Caves. Check your email next door at the Community Resource Centre (inside the library, Shire Building; internet per hr $5; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri; i). Across the highway, Yarliyil Gallery ( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9168 6723; www.yarliyil.com.au; Great Northern Hwy, Halls Creek; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) is definitely worth a look.

Kimberley Hotel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9168 6101; www.kimberleyhotel.com.au; Roberta Ave; r from $172, restaurant mains $22-46; aWs) is your best lunch option and you can find a bed there or at Best Western (%08-9168 9600; www.bestwestern.com.au; d $260; as). There's a caravan park, but you're better off heading out of town.

Skippers flies from Fitzroy Crossing and Halls Creek to Broome and Greyhound passes through daily.

A gold-rush town that has fallen on leaner times, Wyndham is scenically nestled between rugged hills and Cambridge Gulf, some 100km northwest of Kununurra. Sunsets are superb from the spectacular Five Rivers Lookout ( GOOGLE MAP ) on Mt Bastion (325m) overlooking the King, Pentecost, Durack, Forrest and Ord Rivers entering Cambridge Gulf.

A giant 20m croc greets visitors entering town. The historic port precinct is 5km further and contains a small museum ( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9161 1857; Old Courthouse, Port Precinct; h10am-3pm daily during dry season) and pioneer graveyard.

Greyhound drops passengers 56km away at the Victoria Hwy junction; you'll need to arrange a pick up or taxi (%0408 898 638) into town prior to arrival. Internet is available at the Community Resource Centre (CRC; GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9161 1002; www.wyndham.crc.net.au; 990 Koojarra Rd; per hr $5; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri; i).

Kununurra, on Miriwoong country, is a relaxed town set in an oasis of lush farmland and tropical fruit and sandalwood plantations, thanks to the Ord River irrigation scheme. With good transport and communications, excellent services and well-stocked supermarkets, it's every traveller's favourite slice of civilisation between Broome and Darwin.

Kununurra is also the departure point for most of the tours in the East Kimberley, and with all that fruit, there's plenty of seasonal work. Note the Northern Territory is in the Australian Central time zone, which is 90 minutes ahead of Australian Western Standard Time.