MacDonnell Ranges
The beautiful, weather-beaten MacDonnell Ranges, stretching 400km across the desert, are a hidden world of spectacular gorges, rare wildlife and poignant Aboriginal heritage all within a day from Alice. There's no public transport to either the East or West MacDonnell Ranges; there are plenty of tours from Alice.
East MacDonnell Ranges
Although overshadowed by the more popular West Macs, the East MacDonnell Ranges are no less picturesque and, with fewer visitors, can be a more enjoyable outback experience. The sealed Ross Hwy runs 100km along the Ranges, which are intersected by a series of scenic gaps and gorges. The gold-mining ghost town of Arltunga is 33km off the Ross Hwy along an unsealed road that is usually OK for 2WD vehicles; however, access to John Hayes Rockhole (in Trephina Gorge Nature Park), N'Dhala Gorge and Ruby Gap is by 4WD only.
Emily & Jessie Gaps Nature Park
Both of these gaps are associated with the Eastern Arrernte Caterpillar Dreaming trail. Emily Gap, 16km out of town, has stylised rock paintings and a fairly deep waterhole in the narrow gorge. Known to the Arrernte as Anthwerrke, this is one of the most important Aboriginal sites in the Alice Springs area; it was from here that the caterpillar ancestral beings of Mparntwe originated before crawling across the landscape to create the topographical features that exist today. The gap is a sacred site with some well-preserved paintings on the eastern wall. Jessie Gap, 8km further on, is equally scenic and usually much quieter. Both sites have toilets, but camping is not permitted. And both attract flocks of birds looking for a drink. An 8km unmarked bushwalk leads around the ridge between the two gaps.
Corroboree Rock Conservation Reserve
Past Jessie Gap you drive over eroded flats before entering a valley between red ridges. Corroboree Rock, 51km from Alice Springs, is one of many strangely shaped dolomite outcrops scattered over the valley floor. Despite the name, it's doubtful the rock was ever used as a corroboree area, but it is associated with the Perentie Dreaming trail. The perentie lizard grows in excess of 2.5m, and takes refuge within the area's rock falls. There's a short walking track (15 minutes) around the rock.
Trephina Gorge Nature Park
If you only have time for a couple of stops in the East MacDonnell Ranges, make Trephina Gorge Nature Park (75km from Alice) one of them. The play between the pale sandy river beds, the red and purple gorge walls, the white tree trunks, the eucalyptus-green foliage and the blue sky is spectacular. You'll also find deep swimming holes and abundant wildlife. The Trephina Gorge Walk (45 minutes, 2km) loops around the gorge's rim. The Ridgetop Walk (five hours, 10km one way) traverses the ridges from the gorge to John Hayes Rockhole; the 8km return along the road takes about two hours.
The delightful John Hayes Rockhole, 9km from the Trephina Gorge turn-off (the last 4km is 4WD only) has three basic camping sites (John Hayes Rockhole, Trephina Gorge Nature Park; adult/child $3.30/1.65). From here, the gorgeous Chain of Ponds Walk (1½ hours, 4km loop) leads past rock pools and up to a lookout above the gorge.
There's a rangers
station (
%08-8956
9765) and camping grounds (Trephina
Gorge Nature Park;
adult/child
$3.30/1.65) with BBQs,
water and toilets at Trephina Gorge and the Bluff.
N'Dhala Gorge Nature Park
Just southwest of the Ross River Resort, a strictly 4WD-only track leads 11km south to N'Dhala Gorge. More than 5900 ancient Aboriginal rock carvings and some rare endemic plants decorate a deep, narrow gorge, although the art isn't easy to spot. There's a small, exposed camping ground ( GOOGLE MAP ; N'Dhala Gorge; adult/child $3.30/1.65) without reliable water.
Ross River
Secluded Ross River
Resort (
GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8956
9711; www.rossriverresort.com.au;
Ross Highway; unpowered
& powered sites $38, bunkhouse $30, d/f cabin
$130/160; 
a
s) is
built around a historic stone homestead, with basic timber cabins
encircling a swimming pool. The stunning campground is grassy and
studded with gums. There's a store with fuel, and it's worth
grabbing lunch (mains $17 to $25) or a beer in the Stockman's Bar.
Coming from Alice Springs, the resort is about 9km past the
Arltunga turn-off.
Arltunga Historical Reserve
Situated at the eastern end of the MacDonnell Ranges, 110km east of Alice Springs, is the old gold-mining ghost town of Arltunga (40km on unsealed road from the Ross Hwy). Its history, from the discovery of alluvial (surface) gold in 1887 until mining activity petered out in 1912, is fascinating. Old buildings, a couple of cemeteries and the many deserted mine sites in this parched landscape give visitors an idea of what life was like for the miners. There are walking tracks and old mines (with bats!) to explore, so bring a torch.
The unstaffed visitor information centre has old photographs of the gold-extracting process, plus a slide show on the area's history, and drinking water and toilets. There's no camping in the reserve itself.
From Arltunga it's possible to loop back to
Alice along the Arltunga Tourist Dr, which pops out at the Stuart
Hwy about 50km north of town. The road runs past the gracious
Old Ambalindum Homestead (
GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8956
9993; www.oldambalindumhomestead.com.au;
unpowered/powered sites $30/35, dm
$80; as)
which offers self-catered accommodation for up to 12 people in the
homestead and in the bunkhouse on a working cattle station.
Bookings are essential and you need to bring your own food.
West MacDonnell Ranges
With their stunning beauty and rich diversity of plants and animals, the West MacDonnell Ranges are not to be missed. Their easy access by conventional vehicle makes them especially popular with day-trippers. Heading west from Alice, Namatjira Dr turns northwest off Larapinta Dr 6km beyond Standley Chasm and is sealed all the way to Tylers Pass.
Most sites in the West MacDonnell Ranges lie within the West MacDonnell National Park, except for Standley Chasm, which is privately owned. There are ranger stations at Simpsons Gap and Ormiston Gorge.
Larapinta Trail
The 230km Larapinta Trail extends along the backbone of the West MacDonnell Ranges and is one of Australia's great long-distance walks. The track is split into 12 stages of varying difficulty, stretching from the Telegraph Station in Alice Springs to the craggy 1380m summit of Mt Sonder. Each section takes one to two days to navigate and the trail passes many of the attractions in the West MacDonnells.
Section 1 Alice Springs Telegraph Station to Simpsons Gap (23.8km)
Section 2 Simpsons Gap to Jay Creek (24.5km)
Section 3 Jay Creek to Standley Chasm (13.6km)
Section 4 Standley Chasm to Birthday Waterhole (17.7km)
Section 5 Birthday Waterhole to Hugh Gorge (16km)
Section 6 Hugh Gorge to Ellery Creek (31.2km)
Section 7 Ellery Creek to Serpentine Gorge (13.8km)
Section 8 Serpentine Gorge to Serpentine Chalet Dam (13.4km)
Section 9 Serpentine Chalet Dam to Ormiston Gorge (28.6km)
Section 10 Ormiston Gorge to Finke River (9.9km)
Section 11 Finke River to Redbank Gorge (25.2km)
Section 12 Redbank Gorge to Mt Sonder (15.8km return)
Trail notes and maps are available from
Parks & Wildlife (%08-8951
8250; www.parksandwildlife.nt.gov.au/parks/walks/larapinta).
Walking groups of eight or more should contact Parks & Wildlife
with a trip plan.
There's no public transport out to this area,
but transfers can be arranged through the Alice
Wanderer (%1800 722 111,
08-8952 2111;
www.alicewanderer.com.au);
see the website for the various costs. For guided walks, including
transport from Alice Springs, go through
Trek Larapinta.
Simpsons Gap
Westbound from Alice Springs on Larapinta Dr you come to the grave of John Flynn, the founder of the Royal Flying Doctor Service, which is topped by a boulder donated by the Arrernte people (the original was a since-returned Devil's Marble). Opposite the car park is the start of the sealed cycling track to Simpsons Gap, a recommended three- to four-hour return ride.
By road, Simpsons Gap is 22km from Alice Springs and 8km off Larapinta Dr. It's a popular picnic spot and has some excellent short walks. Early morning and late afternoon are the best times to glimpse black-footed rock wallabies. The visitor information centre is 1km from the park entrance.
Standley Chasm (Angkerle)
About 50km west of Alice Springs is the
spectacular Standley Chasm (
GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8956
7440; adult/concession $10/8; 
h8am-5pm, last
chasm entry 4:30pm)
which is owned and run by the nearby community of Iwupataka. This
narrow corridor slices neatly through the rocky range and in places
the smooth walls rise to 80m. The rocky path into the gorge (20
minutes, 1.2km) follows a creek bed lined with ghost gums and
cycads. You can continue to a second chasm (one hour return) or
head up Larapinta Hill (45 minutes return) for a fine view. There's
a cafe, picnic facilities and toilets near the car park.
Namatjira Drive
Namatjira Dr takes you to a whole series of gorges and gaps in the West MacDonnell Ranges. Not far beyond Standley Chasm you can choose the northwesterly Namatjira Dr (which loops down to connect with Larapinta Dr west of Hermannsburg), or you can continue along Larapinta Dr.
If you choose Namatjira Dr, one of your first stops might be Ellery Creek Big Hole, 91km from Alice Springs, and with a large permanent waterhole − a popular place for a swim on a hot day (the water is usually freezing). About 11km further, a rough gravel track leads to narrow, ochre-red Serpentine Gorge, which has a lovely waterhole blocking the entrance and a lookout at the end of a short, steep track (30 minutes, return), where you can view ancient cycads.
The Ochre Pits line a dry creek bed 11km west of Serpentine and were a source of pigment for Aboriginal people. The various coloured ochres − mainly yellow, white and red-brown − are weathered limestone, with iron-oxide creating the colours.
The car park for the majestic Ormiston
Gorge is 25km beyond the Ochre Pits. It's the most
impressive chasm in the West MacDonnells. There's a waterhole
shaded with ghost gums, and the gorge curls around to the enclosed
Ormiston Pound. It is a haven for wildlife and you
can expect to see some critters among the spinifex slopes and mulga
woodland. There are walking tracks, including the
Ghost Gum Lookout (20 minutes), which affords
brilliant views down the gorge, and the excellent, circuitous
Pound Walk (three hours, 7.5km). There's a
visitor centre (
GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8956
7799; h10am-4pm) and a kiosk.
About 2km further is the turn-off to Glen Helen Gorge, where the Finke River cuts through the MacDonnells. Only 1km past Glen Helen is a good lookout over Mt Sonder; sunrise and sunset here are particularly impressive.
If you continue northwest for 25km you'll reach the turn-off (4WD only) to multihued, cathedral-like Redbank Gorge. This permanent waterhole runs for kilometres through the labyrinthine gorge, and makes for an incredible swimming and scrambling adventure on a hot day. Namatjira Dr then heads south and is sealed as far as Tylers Pass Lookout, which provides a dramatic view of Tnorala (Grosse Bluff), the legacy of an earth-shattering comet impact.
4Sleeping & Eating
There are basic camping grounds (adult/child $5/1.50) at Ellery Creek Big Hole, Redbank Gorge and 6km west of Serpentine Gorge at Serpentine Chalet (a 4WD or high-clearance 2WD vehicle is recommended to reach the chalet ruins). The ritzy camping area (Ormiston Gorge; adult/child $10/5) at Ormiston Gorge has showers, toilets, gas barbecues and picnic tables.
Glen Helen ResortHOTEL
(%08-8956
7489; www.glenhelen.com.au;
Namatjira Dr; unpowered/powered sites $24/35, dm/r
$35/170; as)
At the edge of the West MacDonnell National Park is the popular Glen Helen Resort, which has an idyllic back verandah slammed up against the red ochre cliffs of the spectacular gorge. There's a busy restaurant-pub serving hearty meals and live music on the weekend. There are also 4WD tours available and helicopter flights.
There's a good chance you'll spot flocks of colourful budgerigars here while enjoying a cold drink in the evening. Pitching a tent on a grassy patch with your own campfire is a delight.
Red Centre Way (Mereenie Loop)
The Red Centre Way is the 'back road' from Alice to the Rock. It incorporates an 'inner loop' comprising Namatjira and Larapinta Drs, plus the rugged Mereenie Loop Rd, the short cut to Kings Canyon. This dusty, heavily corrugated road is not to be taken lightly, and hire car companies won't permit their 2WDs to be driven on it.
Larapinta Drive
South of Standley Chasm, Larapinta Dr crosses the intersection with Namatjira Dr and the Hugh River before reaching the turn-off to the Western Arrernte community of Wallace Rockhole, 18km off the main road and 109km from Alice Springs.
You'll be virtually guaranteed seclusion at
the Wallace Rockhole Tourist Park
(%08-8956
7993; www.wallacerockholetours.com.au;
unpowered/powered sites $20/24, cabins
$130; a),
which has a camping area with good facilities. Tours must be booked
in advance and can include a 1½-hour rock-art and bush medicine
tour (adult/child $15/13) with billy tea and damper.
About 26km from the Wallace Rockhole turn-off, continuing along Larapinta Dr, you will pass the lonely Namatjira Monument, which is about 8km from Hermannsburg.
Hermannsburg
Pop 625
The Aboriginal community of Hermannsburg (Ntaria), about 125km from Alice Springs, is famous as the one-time home of artist Albert Namatjira and as the site of the Hermannsburg Mission.
In the Hermannsburg Historic Precinct, the
whitewashed walls of the mission
(%08-8956
7402; www.hermannsburg.com.au;
adult/child $10/5; h9am-5pm
Mon-Sat, 10.30am-5pm Sun) are shaded by majestic river gums and
date palms. This fascinating monument to the Territory's early
Lutheran missionaries includes a school building, a church and
various outbuildings. The 'Manse' houses an art gallery and a
history of the life and times of Albert Namatjira, as well as works
of 39 Hermannsburg artists.
The Kata-Anga Tea
Room (meals $8-14; h9am-4pm), in the old missionary house, serves
yummy treats. Distinctive paintings and pottery by the locals is
also on display here and is for sale.
Just west of Hermannsburg is Namatjira's House.
Finke Gorge National Park
With its primordial landscape, the Finke Gorge National Park, south of Hermannsburg, is one of central Australia's premier wilderness reserves. The top attraction is Palm Valley, famous for its red cabbage palms, which exist nowhere else in the world. These relics from prehistoric times give the valley the feel of a picture-book oasis.
Tracks include the Arankaia Walk (2km loop, one hour), which traverses the valley, returning via the sandstone plateau; the Mpulungkinya Track (5km loop, two hours), heading down the gorge before joining the Arankaia Walk; and the Mpaara Track (5km loop, two hours), taking in the Finke River, Palm Bend and a rugged natural amphitheatre (a semicircle of sandstone formations sculpted by a now-extinct meander of Palm Creek). There's a popular camping ground (Finke Gorge National Park; adult/child $6.60/3.30).
Access to the park follows the sandy bed of the Finke River and rocky tracks, and so a high-clearance 4WD is essential. If you don't have one, several tour operators go to Palm Valley from Alice Springs. The turn-off to Palm Valley starts about 1km west of the Hermannsburg turn-off on Larapinta Dr.
If you are well prepared there's a challenging route through the national park along the sandy bed of the Finke River. This is a remote and scenic drive to the Ernest Giles Rd, from where you can continue west to Kings Canyon (or Uluru), or east back to the Stuart Hwy. It pays to travel in a convoy (getting bogged is part of the adventure) and get a copy of the Finke River 4WD Route notes (www.parksandwildlife.nt.gov.au).
Mereenie Loop Road
From Hermannsburg you can head west to the turn-off to Areyonga (no visitors) and then take the Mereenie Loop Rd to Kings Canyon. This is an alternative route from Alice to Kings Canyon. There can be deep sandy patches and countless corrugations, depending on the time of year and how recently it's been graded. It's best travelled in a high-clearance vehicle, preferably a 4WD. Be aware that 2WD hire vehicles will not be covered by insurance on this road.
To travel along this route, which passes through Aboriginal land, you need a Mereenie Tour Pass ($5), which is valid for one day and includes a booklet with details about the local Aboriginal culture and a route map. The pass is issued on the spot (usually only on the day of travel) at the visitor information centre in Alice Springs, Glen Helen Resort, Kings Canyon Resort and Hermannsburg service station.
Kings Canyon & Watarrka National Park
The yawning chasm of Kings Canyon in Watarrka National Park is one of the most spectacular sights in central Australia, and one of the main attractions of the Mereenie Loop. The other ways to get here include the unsealed Ernest Giles Rd, which heads west off the Stuart Hwy 140km south of Alice Springs, and the sealed Luritja Rd which detours off the Lasseter Hwy on the way to Uluru. The latter is the longest route but easily the most popular and comfortable.
Whichever way you get here you will want to spend some time shaking off the road miles and taking in the scenery. Walkers are rewarded with awesome views on the Kings Canyon Rim Walk (6km loop, four hours; you must begin before 9am on hot days), which many travellers rate as a highlight of their trip to the Centre. After a short but steep climb (the only 'difficult' part of the trail), the walk skirts the canyon's rim before descending down wooden stairs to the Garden of Eden: a lush pocket of ferns and prehistoric cycads around a tranquil pool. The next section of the trail winds through a swarm of giant beehive domes: weathered sandstone outcrops, which to the Luritja represent the men of the Kuniya Dreaming.
The Kings Creek Walk (2km return) is a short stroll along the rocky creek bed to a raised platform with views of the towering canyon rim.
About 10km east of the car park, the Kathleen Springs Walk (one hour, 2.6km return) is a pleasant wheelchair-accessible track leading to a waterhole at the head of a gorge.
The Giles Track (22km one-way, overnight) is a marked track that meanders along the George Gill Range between Kathleen Springs and the canyon; fill out the logbook at Reedy Creek rangers office so that in the event of an emergency, rangers can more easily locate you.
TTours
Several tour companies depart Alice and stop here on the way to/from Uluru.
Kings Creek HelicoptersSCENIC FLIGHT
(%08-8956
7474; www.kingscreekstation.com.au;
flights per person
$70-480)
Flies from Kings Creek Station, including a breathtaking 30-minute canyon flight.
Professional Helicopter ServicesSCENIC FLIGHT
(PHS;
%08-8956
2003; www.phs.com.au; flights per
person $95-275)
Picking up from Kings Canyon Resort, PHS buzzes the canyon for eight/15 minutes ($95/145).
4Sleeping & Eating
Kings Creek StationCAMPING
(%08-8956
7474; www.kingscreekstation.com.au;
Luritja Rd; unpowered/powered sites for 2 people $40/44,
safari cabins s/d incl breakfast $105/170; 
is)
Located 35km before the canyon, this family-run station offers a bush camping experience among the desert oaks. The cosy safari-style cabins (small canvas tents on solid floors) share amenities and a kitchen-BBQ area. You can tear around the desert on a quad bike (one-hour ride $93) or enjoy the more sedate thrills of a sunset camel ride (one-hour ride $65).
Fuel, ice, beer, wine, BBQ packs and meals are available at the shop (open 7am to 7pm). Ask about Conways' Kids (www.conwayskids.org.au), a charitable trust set up by the owners to send local Indigenous children to school in Adelaide.
Kings Canyon ResortRESORT
(%08-8956 7442,
1300 863 248;
www.kingscanyonresort.com.au;
Luritja Rd; unpowered/powered sites $39/45, dm $35, d
$285/469; ai
Ws)
Only 10km from the canyon, this well-designed resort boasts a wide range of accommodation, from a grassy camping area with its own pool and bar to deluxe rooms looking out onto native bushland. Eating and drinking options are as varied, with a bistro, the Thirsty Dingo bar and an outback BBQ for big steaks and live entertainment. There's a general store with fuel and an ATM at reception.
Kings Canyon Wilderness LodgeRESORT
(%1300 336
932; www.aptouring.com.au;
Luritja Rd; tented
cabins $640; a)
S
In a secret pocket of Kings Creek Station is this luxury retreat with 10 stylish tents offering private en suite facilities and decks with relaxing bush views. It's run by APT, so independent travellers may find themselves squeezed in among tour groups. Tariff includes breakfast and dinner.
South of Alice Springs
Old South Road
The Old South Road, which runs close to the old Ghan railway line, is pretty rough and really requires a 4WD. It's only 39km from Alice Springs to Ewaninga, where prehistoric Aboriginal petroglyphs are carved into sandstone. The rock carvings found here and at N'Dhala Gorge are thought to have been made by Aboriginal people who lived here before those currently in the region, between 1000 and 5000 years ago.
The eerie, sandstone Chambers Pillar, southwest of Maryvale Station, towers 50m above the surrounding plain and is carved with the names and visit dates of early explorers − and, unfortunately, some much less worthy modern-day graffiti. To the Aboriginal people of the area, Chambers Pillar is the remains of Itirkawara, a powerful gecko ancestor. Most photogenic at sunset and sunrise, it's best to stay overnight at the camping ground (Chambers Pillar; adult/child $3.30/1.65). It's 160km from Alice Springs, and a 4WD is required for the last 44km from the turn-off at Maryvale Station.
Back on the main track south, you eventually
arrive at Finke (Aputula), a small Aboriginal
community 230km from Alice Springs. When the old Ghan was
running, Finke was a thriving town; these days it seems to have
drifted into a permanent torpor, except when the Finke
Desert Race is staged. Fuel is sold at the Aputula Store (%08-8956
0968; h9am-noon
& 2-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat).
From Finke, you can turn west along the Goyder Stock Route to join the Stuart Hwy at Kulgera (150km), or east to Old Andado station on the edge of the Simpson Desert (120km). Just 21km west of Finke, and 12km north of the road along a signposted track, is the Lambert Centre. The point marks Australia's geographical centre and features a 5m-high version of the flagpole found on top of Parliament House in Canberra.
Rainbow Valley Conservation Reserve
This series of free-standing sandstone bluffs and cliffs, in shades ranging from cream to red, is one of central Australia's more extraordinary sights. A marked walking trail takes you past claypans and in between the multihued outcrops to the aptly named Mushroom Rock. Rainbow Valley is most striking in the early morning or at sunset, but the area's silence will overwhelm you whatever time of day you are here.
The park lies 24km off the Stuart Hwy along a 4WD track that's 77km south of Alice Springs. It has a pretty exposed camping ground (Rainbow Valley Conservation Reserve; adult/child $3.30/1.65) but the setting is perfectly positioned for sunset viewing.
Ernest Giles Road
The Ernest Giles Rd heads off to the west of the Stuart Hwy about 140km south of Alice and is a shorter but much rougher route to Kings Canyon only recommended for 4WD vehicles.
Henbury Meteorite Craters
About 11km west of the Stuart Hwy, a corrugated track leads 5km off Ernest Giles Rd to this cluster of 12 small craters, formed after a meteor fell to earth 4700 years ago. The largest of the craters is 180m wide and 15m deep. It's well worth the detour, the road is fine for 2WDs if you proceed carefully, and the craters are surrounded by some beautiful country.
There are no longer any fragments of the meteorites at the site, but the Museum of Central Australia in Alice Springs has a small chunk that weighs 46.5kg.
There are some pretty exposed camp sites (Henbury Meteorite Craters; adult/child $3.30/1.65) available.
Lasseter Highway
The Lasseter Hwy connects the Stuart Hwy with
Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park, 244km to the west from the turn-off
at Erldunda. At Erldunda food, fuel and accommodation is available
at the Desert Oaks Resort (%08-8956
0984; www.desertoaksresort.com;
Stuart Hwy,
Erldunda; unpowered/powered sites $22/32, motel s/d from
$115/150; as),
where rooms 23 through 27 are a good choice with garden views.
Mt Conner, the large mesa (table-top mountain) that looms 350m out of the desert, is the outback's most photographed red herring − on first sighting many mistake it for Uluru. It has great significance to local Aboriginal people, who know it as Atila.
Curtin Springs Wayside
Inn (
GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8956
2906; www.curtinsprings.com;
Lasseter Hwy; unpowered/powered sites free/$25, s/d $75/105, r
with bathroom $160;
a) is
the last stop before Yulara, about 80km away. If you're headed for
Uluru, this is the closest accommodation alternative to Yulara's
Ayers Rock Resort. You can pitch a tent for free (showers $3) or
bed down in a well-maintained cabin. There's fuel, a store with
limited supplies and takeaway and bistro meals (mains $20 to $32),
plus an eccentric outback bar full of history and tall tales.
Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park
There are some world-famous sights touted as unmissable, which end up being a let-down when you actually see them. And then there's Uluru: nothing can really prepare you for the immensity, grandeur, changing colour and stillness of 'the rock'. It really is a sight that will sear itself onto your mind.
The World Heritage–listed icon has attained the status of a pilgrimage. Uluru, the equally (some say more) impressive Kata Tjuta (the Olgas), and the surrounding area are of deep cultural significance to the traditional owners, the Pitjantjatjara and Yankuntjatjara Aboriginal peoples (who refer to themselves as Anangu). The Anangu officially own the national park, which is leased to Parks Australia and jointly administered.
There's plenty to see and do: meandering walks, bike rides, guided tours, desert culture and simply contemplating the many changing colours and moods of the great monolith itself.
The only accommodation is at the Ayers Rock Resort in the Yulara village, 20km from the Rock. Expect premium prices, reflecting the remote locale.
8Information
The park ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.parksaustralia.gov.au/uluru/index.html; adult/child $25/free) is open from half an hour before sunrise to sunset daily (varying slightly between months – check the website for exact times). Entry permits are valid for three days and are available at the drive-through entry station on the road from Yulara.
Uluru-Kata Tjuta Cultural Centre (
GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8956
1128; www.parksaustralia.gov.au/uluru/do/cultural-centre.html;
h7am-6pm) is 1km before Uluru on the road from
Yulara and should be your first stop. Displays and exhibits focus
on tjukurpa (Aboriginal law, religion and custom) and the
history and management of the national park. The information desk
in the Nintiringkupai building is staffed by park rangers who
supply the informative Visitor Guide, leaflets and walking
notes.
The Cultural Centre encompasses the craft
outlet Maruku Arts (
GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8956
2558; www.maruku.com.au; h8.30am-5.30pm), owned by about 20 Anangu communities
from across central Australia (including the local Mutitjulu
community), selling hand-crafted wooden carvings, bowls and
boomerangs. Walkatjara Art Centre
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8956
2537; h9am-5.30pm) is a working art centre owned by the
local Mutitjulu community. It focuses on paintings and ceramics
created by women from Mutitjulu. Ininti Cafe
& Souvenirs (
GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8956
2214; h7am-5pm) sells souvenirs such as T-shirts,
ceramics, hats, CDs and a variety of books on Uluru, Aboriginal
culture, bush foods and the flora and fauna of the area. The
attached cafe serves ice cream, pies and light meals.
TTours
Bus Tours
Seit Outback AustraliaBUS TOUR
(%08-8956
3156; www.seitoutbackaustralia.com.au)
This small group-tour operator has numerous options including a sunset tour around Uluru (adult/child $149/121), and a sunrise tour at Kata Tjuta for the same price including breakfast and a walk into Walpa Gorge.
AAT KingsBUS TOUR
(%08-8956
2171; www.aatkings.com)
Operating the largest range of coach tours to Uluru, AAT offers a range of half- and full-day tours from Yulara. Check the website or enquire at the Tour & Information Centre in Yulara.
Camel Tours
Uluru Camel ToursCAMEL TOURS
(%08-8956
3333; www.ulurucameltours.com.au)
View Uluru and Kata Tjuta from a distance atop a camel ($80, 1½ hours) or take the popular Camel to Sunrise and Sunset tours ($125, 2½ hours).
Cultural Tours
oUluru Aboriginal
ToursCULTURAL TOUR
(%0447 878
851; www.uluruaboriginaltours.com.au;
guided tours from
$99)
Owned and operated by Anangu from the Mutitjulu community, this company offers a range of trips to give you an insight into the significance of the Rock through the eyes of the traditional owners. Tours operate and depart from the cultural centre, as well as from Yulara Ayers Rock Resort (through AAT Kings) and from Alice Springs.
There are a range of tours including the Rising Sun & Sacred Walk tour, which includes bush skills demonstrations, such as spear throwing, a hot buffet breakfast around a campfire, and unparalleled insights into the area's traditional lore and legend from your local guide. Call or email for the latest offerings of self-drive tours and packages.
Desert TracksCULTURAL TOURS
(%0439 500
419; www.deserttracks.com.au;
adult/child
$249/199)
This Pitjantjatjara-run company offers a full-day 4WD journey into the remote Pitjantjatjara Lands to meet the traditional owners of Cave Hill and view some spectacular rock art depicting the Seven Sisters story.
Dining Tours
Sounds of SilenceTOUR
(%08-8957
7448; www.ayersrockresort.com.au/sounds-of-silence;
adult/child $195/96)
Waiters serve champagne and canapés on a desert dune with stunning sunset views of Uluru and Kata Tjuta. Then it's a buffet dinner (with emu, croc and roo) beneath the southern sky, which, after dinner, is dissected and explained with the help of a telescope. If you're more of a morning person, try the similarly styled Desert Awakenings 4WD Tour (www.ayersrockresort.com.au/desert-awakenings; adult/child $168/130). Neither tour is suitable for children under 10 years.
Motorcycle Tours
Sunrise and sunset tours to Uluru and Kata Tjuta can be had on the back of a Harley Davidson.
Uluru Motorcycle ToursTOUR
(%08-8956
2019; www.ulurucycles.com;
rides $99-429)
Motors out to Uluru at sunset ($199, 1½ hours).
Scenic Flights
Prices are quoted per person and include airport transfers from Ayers Rock Resort.
Ayers Rock HelicoptersSCENIC FLIGHTS
(%08-8956
2077; www.helicoptergroup.com/arh-index)
A 15-minute buzz of Uluru costs $150; to include Kata Tjuta costs $285.
Uluru (Ayers Rock)
The first sight of Uluru on the horizon will astound even the most jaded traveller. Uluru is 3.6km long and rises a towering 348m from the surrounding sandy scrubland (867m above sea level). If that's not impressive enough, it's believed that two-thirds of the rock lies beneath the sand. Closer inspection reveals a wondrous contoured surface concealing numerous sacred sites of particular significance to the Anangu. If your first sight of Uluru is during the afternoon, it appears as an ochre-brown colour, scored and pitted by dark shadows. As the sun sets, it illuminates the rock in burnished orange, then a series of deeper reds before it fades into charcoal. A performance in reverse, with marginally fewer spectators, is given at dawn.
2Activities
Walking
There are walking tracks around Uluru, and ranger-led walks explain the area's plants, wildlife, geology and cultural significance. All the trails are flat and suitable for wheelchairs. Several areas of spiritual significance are off limits to visitors; these are marked with fences and signs. The Anangu ask you not to photograph these sites.
The excellent Visitor Guide & Maps brochure, which can be picked up at the Cultural Centre, gives details on a few self-guided walks.
Base WalkWALKING
This track (10.6km, three to four hours) circumnavigates the rock, passing caves, paintings, sandstone folds and geological abrasions along the way.
Liru WalkWALKING
Links the Cultural Centre with the start of the Mala Walk and climb, and winds through strands of mulga before opening up near Uluru (4km return, 1½ hours).
Mala WalkWALKING
From the base of the climbing point (2km return, one hour), interpretive signs explain the tjukurpa of the Mala (hare-wallaby people), which is significant to the Anangu, as well as fine examples of rock art. A ranger-guided walk (free) along this route departs at 10am (8am from October to April) from the car park.
Kuniya WalkWALKING
A short walk (1km return, 45 minutes) from the car park on the southern side leads to the most permanent waterhole, Mutitjulu, home of the ancestral watersnake. Great birdwatching and some excellent rock art are highlights of this walk.
Uluru ClimbWALKING
The Anangu ask that visitors respect Aboriginal law by not climbing Uluru. The steep and demanding path (1.6km return, two hours) follows the traditional route taken by ancestral Mala men. The climb is often closed (sometimes at short notice) due to weather and Anangu business.
A QUESTION OF CLIMBING
Many visitors consider climbing Uluru to be a highlight of a trip to the Centre, and even a rite of passage. But for the traditional owners, the Anangu, Uluru is a sacred place. The path up the side of the Rock is part of the route taken by the Mala ancestors on their arrival at Uluru and has great spiritual significance − and is not to be trampled by human feet. When you arrive at Uluru you'll see a sign from the Anangu saying 'We don't climb', and a request that you don't climb either.
The Anangu are the custodians of Uluru and take responsibility for the safety of visitors. Any injuries or deaths that occur are a source of distress and sadness to them. For similar reasons of public safety, Parks Australia would prefer that people didn't climb. It's a very steep ascent, not to be taken lightly, and each year there are several air rescues, mostly of people suffering heart attacks. Furthermore, Parks Australia must constantly monitor the climb and close it on days where the temperature is forecast to reach 36°C or over, and when strong winds are expected.
So if the Anangu and Parks Australia don't want people to climb Uluru, why does the climb remain open? The answer is tourism. The tourism industry believes visitor numbers would drop significantly − at least initially − if the climb was closed, particularly among those who think there is nothing else to do at Uluru.
A commitment has been made to close the climb for good, but only when there are adequate new visitor experiences in place or when the proportion of visitors climbing falls below 20%. Until then, it remains a personal decision and a question of respect. Before deciding, visit the Cultural Centre and perhaps take an Anangu guided tour.
Sunset & Sunrise Viewing Areas
About halfway between Yulara and Uluru, the sunset viewing area has plenty of car and coach parking for that familiar postcard view. The Talnguru Nyakunytjaku sunrise viewing area is perched on a sand dune and captures both the Rock and Kata Tjuta in all their glory. It also has two great interpretive walks (1.5km) about women's and men's business. There's a shaded viewing area, toilets and a place to picnic.
SUNSET WITH SOLITUDE
Uluru at sunset is a mesmerising experience but it can be hard to escape the crowds and their cameras. Here park rangers share their secrets for a sunset with solitude.
Talinguru Nyakunytjaku Wildly popular at dawn, but at sunset you'll have both Uluru and Kata Tjuta, in silhouette, in the same shot, all to yourself.
Kantju Gorge Head to the end of the Mala Walk in time for a dazzling sunset on the walls of the Rock.
Kata Tjuta Sunset Viewing Take a seat in a private area and watch the colours change to the deepest red.
Mutitjulu Waterhole For profound peace follow the Kuniya Walk to this glorious waterhole.
Kata Tjuta (The Olgas)
No journey to Uluru is complete without a visit to Kata Tjuta (the Olgas), a striking group of domed rocks huddled together about 35km west of the Rock. There are 36 boulders shoulder to shoulder forming deep valleys and steep-sided gorges. Many visitors find them even more captivating than their prominent neighbour. The tallest rock, Mt Olga (546m, 1066m above sea level) is approximately 200m higher than Uluru. Kata Tjuta means 'many heads' and is of great tjukurpa significance, particularly for men, so stick to the tracks.
The 7.4km Valley of the Winds loop (two to four hours) is one of the most challenging and rewarding bushwalks in the park. It winds through the gorges, giving excellent views of the surreal domes and traversing varied terrain. It's not particularly arduous, but wear sturdy shoes, and take plenty of water. Starting this walk at first light often rewards you with solitude, enabling you to appreciate the sounds of the wind and bird calls carried up the valley.
The short signposted track beneath towering rock walls into pretty Walpa Gorge (2.6km return, 45 minutes) is especially beautiful in the afternoon, when sunlight floods the gorge.
There's a picnic and sunset-viewing area with toilet facilities just off the access road a few kilometres west of the base of Kata Tjuta. Like Uluru, Kata Tjuta is at its glorious, blood-red best at sunset.
Heading West
A lonely sign at the western end of Kata Tjuta points in the direction of WA. If suitably equipped you can travel the 181km to Kaltukatjara (Docker River), an Aboriginal settlement to the west, and then about 1500km on to Kalgoorlie in WA. You need a permit from the Central Land Council for this trip.
Yulara (Ayers Rock Resort)
Pop 887
Yulara is the service village for the Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park, and has effectively turned one of the world's least hospitable regions into a comfortable place to stay. Lying just outside the national park, 20km from Uluru and 53km from Kata Tjuta, the complex is the closest base for exploring the park.
Yulara (Ayers Rock Resort)
4Sleeping
1Sights & Activities
The Ayers Rock Resort conducts numerous free activities throughout the day: from spear, boomerang and dij classes to dance programs. Pick up a program at your accommodation.
4Sleeping
All of the accommodation in Yulara, including the camping ground and hostel, is owned by the Ayers Rock Resort. Even though there are almost 5000 beds, it's wise to make a reservation, especially during school holidays. Substantial discounts are usually offered if you book for more than two or three nights.
Ayers Rock Resort CampgroundCAMPGROUND
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8957
7001; www.ayersrockresort.com.au/arrcamp;
unpowered/powered sites $38/48, cabins
$165; ais)
A saviour for the budget conscious, this sprawling campground is set among native gardens. There are good facilities including a kiosk, free BBQs, a camp kitchen and a pool. During the peak season it's very busy, and the inevitable predawn convoy heading for Uluru can provide an unwanted wake-up call. The cramped cabins (shared facilities) sleep six people and are only really suitable for a family.
Outback Pioneer Hotel & LodgeHOSTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %1300 134
044; http://www.ayersrockresort.com.au/outback;
dm $38-46, d
$240-310; ais)
With a lively bar, barbecue restaurant and musical entertainment, this is the budget choice for noncampers. The cheapest options are the 20-bed YHA unisex dorms, and squashy four-bed budget cabins with fridge, TV and shared bathroom. There are also more spacious motel-style rooms that sleep up to four people. Children under 12 stay free, though anyone over 12 is an extra $50 a night.
Emu Walk ApartmentsAPARTMENTS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %1300 134
044; www.ayersrockresort.com.au/emu;
1-/2-bedroom apt from
$400/500; as)
The pick of the bunch for families looking for self-contained accommodation, Emu Walk has comfortable, modern apartments, each with a lounge room (with TV) and a well-equipped kitchen with washer and dryer. The one-bedroom apartments accommodate four people, while the two-bedroom version sleeps six.
Desert Gardens HotelHOTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %1300 134
044; r $410-530; ais)
One of Yulara's original hotels, and showing its age. This place gets very busy over school holiday periods, which can overwhelm cleaning staff, but generally service is friendly and efficient. The spacious deluxe rooms are the best option, featuring balconies with desert or Uluru views. A big buffet breakfast is served in the restaurant and there's a pleasant pool area shaded with gums.
Sails in the DesertHOTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %1300 134
044; http://www.ayersrockresort.com.au/sails;
superior d $540, ste
$1000; aiWs)
The rooms still seem overpriced at the resort's flagship hotel. There's a lovely pool and surrounding lawn shaded by sails and trees. There are also tennis courts, a health spa, several restaurants and a piano bar. The best rooms have balcony views of the rock – request one when you make a booking.
5Eating
Walpa Lobby BarMODERN AUSTRALIAN
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; Sails in the
Desert; mains $30; h11am-10pm)
if you want to treat yourself, this is the place to try. With a recent makeover, and feel of a Hilton Hotel bar, the excellent food and friendly service make up for for the slight sterility. Hot and cold seafood platters are a treat, and most dishes feature Australian bush ingredients. Salads and antipasto also available. 'Walpa' is the Pitjantjatjara name for wind.
Geckos CafeMEDITERRANEAN
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
Resort Shopping
Centre; mains $20-30; h11am-9pm; 
v)
For great value, a warm atmosphere and tasty food head to this buzzing licensed cafe. The wood-fired pizzas, pastas, burgers and fish 'n' chips go well with a carafe of sangria, and the courtyard tables are a great place to enjoy the desert night air. There are several veggie and gluten-free options, plus meals can be made to takeaway.
Outback Pioneer BarbecueBARBECUE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; Outback
Pioneer Hotel & Lodge; burgers $18,
meat $30, salad bar only $17; h6-9pm)
For a fun, casual night out, this lively
tavern is the popular choice for everyone from backpackers to grey
nomads. Choose between kangaroo skewers, prawns, veggie burgers,
steaks and emu sausages, and grill them yourself at the communal
BBQs. The deal includes a salad bar. In the same complex is the
Pioneer Kitchen (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; Outback
Pioneer Hotel & Lodge; meals
$10-22; h6-9pm),
doing brisk business in burgers, pizza and kiddie meals.
oBough
HouseAUSTRALIAN
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; Outback
Pioneer Hotel & Lodge; mains
$30-40; h6.30-10am
& 6.30-9.30pm;
c)
This family-friendly, country-style place overlooks the pool at the Outback Pioneer. Intimate candlelit dining is strangely set in a barnlike dining room. Bough House specialises in native ingredients such as lemon myrtle, kakadu plums and bush tomatoes. Try the native tasting plate for a selection of Australian wildlife meats, and follow up with the braised wallaby shank for your main. The dessert buffet is free with your main course.
8Information
EmergencyEMERGENCY
(%ambulance
0420 101 403, police 08-8956 2166)
For emergencies.
Internet CafeINTERNET
(
GOOGLE MAP ; Outback
Pioneer Hotel & Lodge; h5am-11pm; W)
In the backpacker common room.
Post OfficePOST OFFICE
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8956
2288; Resort Shopping Centre; h9am-6pm
Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat & Sun)
An agent for the Commonwealth and NAB banks. Pay phones are outside.
Royal Flying Doctor Service Medical CentreMEDICAL CLINIC
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8956
2286; h9am-noon
& 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 10-11am Sat & Sun)
The resort's medical centre and ambulance service.
Tour & Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8957
7324; Resort Shopping Centre; h8am-8pm)
Most tour operators and car-hire firms have desks at this centre.
Visitor Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8957
7377; h8.30am-4.30pm)
Contains displays on the geography, wildlife and history of the region. There's a short audio tour ($2) if you want to learn more. It also sells books and regional maps.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Connellan Airport, serviced by a number of airlines, is about 4km north from Yulara.
Bus
Emu Run runs cheap daily connections between Alice Springs and Yulara (one-way adult/child $135/80).
Car & Motorcycle
One route from Alice to Yulara is sealed all the way, with regular food and petrol stops. It's 200km from Alice to Erldunda on the Stuart Hwy, where you turn west for the 245km journey along the Lasseter Hwy. The journey takes four to five hours.
Renting a car in Alice Springs to go to Uluru and back is a reasonably priced option if you make the trip in a group.
8Getting Around
A free shuttle bus meets all flights and drops off at all accommodation points around the resort; pick-up is 90 minutes before your flight. Another free shuttle bus loops through the resort − stopping at all accommodation points and the shopping centre − every 15 minutes from 10.30am to 6pm and from 6.30pm to 12.30am daily.
Uluru Express
(%08-8956
2152; www.uluruexpress.com.au)
falls somewhere between a shuttle-bus service and an organised
tour. It provides return transport from the resort to Uluru and
Kata Tjuta – see website for details.
Hiring a car will give you the flexibility to visit the Rock and the Olgas whenever you want. Car rental offices are at the Tour & Information Centre and Connellan Airport.