Launceston & Eastern Tasmania
Launceston & Eastern Tasmania Highlights
The Midlands
Oatlands
Ross
Campbell Town
East Coast
Maria Island National Park
Swansea
Coles Bay & Freycinet National Park
Bicheno
The Northeast
St Helens
Bay of Fires
Mt William National Park
Launceston
Around Launceston
Tamar Valley
Longford & Around
Evandale
Ben Lomond National Park
Launceston & Eastern Tasmania
Why Go?
Trucking north from Hobart to Launceston, Tasmania's agricultural Midlands have a distinctly English feel, with baked, straw-coloured fields, stands of poplar trees, hedgerows and well-preserved Georgian villages.
Heading east, Tasmania's east coast is sea-salty and rejuvenating – a land of quiet bays punctuated by granite headlands splashed with flaming orange lichen. You'll find plenty of opportunities to hike, cycle, kayak, surf, dive and fish.
In the state's north, it's hard to imagine a pocket-sized city more appealing than Launceston. Well, maybe Wellington or Bergen…but Lonnie, as the locals call it, is certainly large enough for some urban buzz, while small enough for country congeniality.
Just outside Launceston are the vine-covered hillsides of the gently beautiful Tamar Valley. The historic towns to the south and west of the city offer stately homes, heritage streetscapes and buckets of small-town charm.
When to Go
ADec–Feb Launceston gets giddy with summer festivals and long, still riverside evenings.
AMar–Apr Vintage time in the Tamar Valley, while the east-coast sea is at its warmest.
AJun–Aug Snow on Ben Lomond and clear, still Midlands days. Accommodation deals abound.
Best Places to Eat
Launceston & Eastern Tasmania Highlights
1 Walking, swimming, eating or just chilling out at Launceston’s Cataract Gorge.
2 Checking out Launceston from the water with Tamar River Cruises.
3 Wobbling between cellar doors in the Pipers River Wine Region.
4 Sweating it out on the track to picture-perfect Wineglass Bay on the east coast.
5 Bumping into wombats and wallabies at Maria Island National Park, just off the east coast.
6 Dunking your head under the waves at Binalong Bay in the northeast.
7 Swooping down the ski slopes at lofty Ben Lomond National Park.
8 Cheering on the speeding cyclists in the National Penny Farthing Championships in Evandale.
The Midlands
8Getting There & Around
Redline (%1300 360 000; www.tasredline.com.au) buses power along the Midland Hwy several times daily. One way from Hobart/Launceston to Oatlands costs $22/25; to Ross or Campbell Town it's $31/14.
Oatlands
Pop 860
Established as a garrison town in 1832, Oatlands serves a thriving tourist trade, but remains stately and restrained about it. The little town contains Australia's largest collection of Georgian architecture – on the impressive main street alone there are 87 historic buildings, some now housing galleries and craft stores.
1Sights
Callington MillHISTORIC BUILDING
(%03-6254 1212; www.callingtonmill.com.au; 1 Mill Lane; tours adult/child/family $15/8/40; h9am-5pm)S
Spinning above the Oatlands rooftops, the Callington Mill was built in 1837 and ground flour until 1891. After decades of neglect, with the innards collecting pigeon poo and the stonework crumbling, it’s been fully restored and is once again producing high-grade organic flour. It’s an amazing piece of engineering, fully explained on guided tours leaving hourly from 10am to 3pm. The town's visitor information centre is here, too.
4Sleeping & Eating
Blossom’s CottageB&B
(%03-6254 1516; www.blossomscottageoatlands.com.au; 116 High St; d incl breakfast $110; W)
In a self-contained garden studio, Blossom’s is bright and cheerful, with a cast-iron bed, blackwood timber floors, leadlight windows, a small kitchenette and a couple of easy chairs under a silver birch. Great value. Fullsome breakfast basket provided.
Woodfired Bakery CafeBAKERY, CAFE
(%0418 551 546; www.naturespath.com.au; 106 High St; mains $10-16; h10am-4pm Wed-Mon)
The newest eatery in town (they were still putting the signs up when we visited), this upbeat outfit splits its attention between selling natural olive-oil soaps and quality cafe fare, such as breakfast burritos, soups, toasted panini and buttermilk pancakes. Saturday-night pizzas were also looking like a distinct possibility.
8Information
Oatlands Visitor Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(%03-6254 1212; www.heritagehighwaytasmania.com.au; Callington Mill, 1 Mill Lane; h9am-5pm)
Proffers general info and handles accommodation bookings. Pick up the free handouts: Welcome to Oatlands, which includes self-guided town-tour directions; Lake Dulverton Walkway Guide, for explorations around the lake; and guides to the town's old military and supreme court precincts.
Ross
Pop 420
Another tidy (nay, immaculate) Midlands town is Ross, 120km north of Hobart. Established in 1812 as a garrison town to protect Hobart–Launceston travellers from bushrangers, it quickly became an important coach staging post. Tree-lined streets are wrapped in colonial charm and history.
The crossroads in the middle of town leads you in one of four directions: temptation (the Man O'Ross Hotel), salvation (the Catholic church), recreation (the town hall) or damnation (the old jail).
1Sights
Ross BridgeBRIDGE
(Bridge St)
The oft-photographed 1836 Ross Bridge is the third-oldest bridge in Australia. Its graceful arches were designed by colonial architect John Lee Archer, and it was built by two convict stonemasons, Messrs Colbeck and Herbert, who were granted pardons for their efforts. Herbert chiselled the 186 intricate carvings decorating the arches, including Celtic symbols, animals and the faces of notable people (including Governor Arthur and Anglo-Danish convict Jorgen Jorgenson, the farcical ex-king of Iceland). At night the bridge is lit up – the carvings shimmer with spooky shadows.
Ross Female FactoryMUSEUM
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.parks.tas.gov.au; cnr Bond & Portugal Sts; hsite 9am-5pm, cottage 9.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri & 1-4pm Sat & Sun)F
This barren site was one of Tasmania’s two female convict prisons (the other was in Hobart). Only one cottage remains, full of interesting historical info, but archaeological excavations among the sunburnt stubble are under way. Descriptive panels provide insight into the hard lives these women led. Pick up the Ross Female Factory brochure from the visitor centre, then walk along the track from the top of Church St to get here.
4Sleeping & Eating
Ross Caravan ParkCARAVAN PARK
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6381 5224; www.rossmotel.com.au; Bridge St; unpowered/powered sites $24/32, cabins s/d $50/70; W)
An appealing patch of green near Ross Bridge on the banks of the fish-filled Macquarie River. Utilitarian, sandstone, barracks-style cabins sleep two to four people (with cooking facilities) and are the cheapest accommodation in town. Bathrooms are shared; BYO linen. Reception is at the Ross Motel.
Stone CottageRENTAL HOUSE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6381 5444; www.stonecottageross.com.au; 4 Church St; d $120, extra adult/child $20/10; aW)
One of the town’s best options for families is indeed made of stone (amazingly detailed!), with a truckload of kids’ toys and DVDs and an expansive garden with established fruit trees. The country kitchen with a long wooden table is perfect for lazy lunches and dinners. Sleeps seven.
Ross MotelMOTEL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6381 5224; www.rossmotel.com.au; 2 High St; d/f incl breakfast from $135/195; W)
The independently owned Ross Motel offers spick-and-span Georgian-style cottage units (reasonably inoffensive reproductions), each with microwave, fridge and TV. Family units sleep four. Quiet and central, with breakfast provisions included for your first morning.
Ross Village BakeryBAKERY
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6381 5246; www.rossbakery.com.au; 15 Church St; items $3-20; h8.30am-4.30pm)
Overdose on savoury carbs, pies, astonishingly tall vanilla slices and Saturday-night wood-fired pizzas in summer, plus virtuous soups and salads of all kinds. The owners get up at 4am every day to light the 1860 wood oven.
Man O'Ross HotelPUB FOOD
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6381 5445; www.manoross.com; 35 Church St; mains $19-30; hnoon-2pm & 6-8pm; W)
Dinner options in Ross are scant, but the town’s heritage pub offers an old-school pub menu, including beer-battered east-coast flathead, homemade rissoles with chips and veg, chicken Kiev and roast o' the day. There's a beaut beer garden out the back that's all raised decks and brollies.
8Information
Ross Visitor Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(%03-6381 5466; www.visitross.com.au; 48 Church St; h9am-5pm)
Inside the Tasmanian Wool Centre. If you’ve got a group of eight or more, the centre runs guided town tours (per person $5, bookings essential).
Campbell Town
Pop 990
Campbell Town, 12km north of Ross, is another former garrison and convict settlement. Unlike in Oatlands and Ross, the Midlands Hwy still trucks right on through town, making it a handy pitstop. Rows of red bricks set into the High St footpath detail the crimes, sentences and arrival dates of convicts such as Ephram Brain and English Corney, sent to Van Diemen's Land for crimes as various as stealing potatoes, bigamy and murder.
1Sights
Campbell Town MuseumMUSEUM
(%03-6381 1503; Town Hall, 75 High St; h10am-3pm Mon-Fri)F
The curio-strewn, volunteer-run museum features histories of characters such as John Batman and Martin Cash (a local bushranger) and sundry old artefacts such as an amazing 1930s film projector, once used by the Bye brothers, who screened Saturday-night movies here in the 1930s.
Red BridgeBRIDGE
(High St)
The convict-built bridge across the Elizabeth River here was completed in 1838, making it almost as venerable as the Ross Bridge. Locals call it the Red Bridge because it was built from more than 1.5 million red bricks, baked on site.
5Eating
Red Bridge Cafe & ProvidoreCAFE
(%03-6381 1169; 137 High St; items $4-13; h7.30am-4pm Mon, Wed & Thu, to 5pm Fri, 8am-5pm Sat & Sun; W)
At the southern end of town, near the Red Bridge, a former brewery has been transformed into a funky dining room with shared wooden tables and a providore packed with beaut Tasmanian food, wine and beer. Fab cakes, quiches, tarts and gourmet pies make this an essential stop, whether you're heading north or south.
8Information
Campbell Town Visitor Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(%03-6381 1353; www.campbelltowntasmania.com; Town Hall, 75 High St; h10am-3pm Mon-Sat)
Local info, plus the Campbell Town Museum. The centre is volunteer-run so hours may vary. Pick up the Campbell Town – Historic Heart of Tasmania brochure which plots sundry historic edifices on a map.
East Coast
Tasmania's laid-back east coast is drop-dead gorgeous. The west coast cops all the rain – by the time the clouds make it out here they’re empty! No surprise, then, that this is prime holiday terrain for Tasmanians. Wineglass Bay and the pink granite peaks of Freycinet National Park are justifiably world famous.
Online see www.eastcoasttasmania.com.
8Getting There & Around
Bicycle
The Tasman Hwy along the east coast is Tasmania's most popular cycle-touring route, with seaside towns, forests and plenty of places to swim. Traffic is usually light, and the hills aren't too steep.
Bus
Tassielink (%1300 300 520; www.tassielink.com.au) provides east-coast services from Hobart to Triabunna ($21, 1¾ hours), Swansea ($30, 2¼ hours), the Coles Bay turn off ($34, three hours) and Bicheno ($38, three to four hours).
Bicheno Coach Service (%03-6257 0293, 0419 570 293; www.freycinetconnections.com.au) runs between Bicheno, Coles Bay and Freycinet National Park, connecting with east-coast Tassielink coaches at the Coles Bay turn off.
North of Bicheno, Calow's Coaches (%0400 570 036, 03-6376 2161; www.calowscoaches.com.au) runs to St Helens ($14, two hours) and Launceston ($36, three to four hours).
Maria Island National Park
Heading up the coast from Hobart, about 8km north of Orford, is Triabunna (population 900), the departure point for ferries to Maria Island National Park ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.parks.tas.gov.au; 24hr per person $12), just a few kilometres offshore. Book and buy ferry tickets and national park passes at the Triabunna visitor information centre (%03-6257 4772; cnr Charles St & The Esplanade; h9am-5pm, closed for lunch 12.30-1.30pm).
Car-free, care-free Maria (pronounced 'ma-rye-ah') was declared a national park in 1972. Its mixed history provides some interesting convict and industrial ruins among exquisite natural features: forests, fern gullies, craggy peaks, fossil-studded cliffs and empty beaches. Maria is popular with bushwalkers and mountain bikers (BYO or hire one from the ferry company), while snorkellers and divers are in for a treat. National park fees apply, and island info is available at the reception area in the old Commissariat Store near the ferry pier.
1Sights & Activities
DarlingtonHISTORIC SITE
The township of Darlington is where you’ll start your time on the island. Close to the ferry jetty are some amazing old silos (good for some monastic chanting inside) and the historic Commissariat Store, now the national park visitor centre. Through an avenue of gnarled macrocarpa trees, lies the penitentiary, which once housed convicts (now bunkhouse-style accommodation) as well as the restored Coffee Palace and mess hall.
Painted CliffsLANDMARK
( GOOGLE MAP )
From Darlington it’s a one-hour return walk to the Painted Cliffs, at the southern end of Hopground Beach. From the beach you can clamber along the sculpted sandstone cliffs, stained with iron oxide in a kaleidoscope of colours. We suggest a visit in the late afternoon when the sun paints the cliffs a fiery orange.
Fossil Cliffs, Bishop and Clerk & Mt MariaWALKING
From Darlington, there’s a two-hour loop walk to the Fossil Cliffs and the old brickworks. If you have more time (four hours return from Darlington), climb Bishop and Clerk (620m) for a bird’s-eye view while you eat your packed lunch on the exposed, rocky summit. Mt Maria (711m) is the island’s highest point; it’s a seven-hour return hike through the eucalypt forests from Darlington, with brilliant views over the island’s isthmus from the top.
Maria Island WalkWALKING
(%03-6234 2999; www.mariaislandwalk.com.au; per person $2350)
Blisters, soggy tents and two-minute noodles? Redefine your concept of bushwalking on this luxury guided four-day hike through Maria's best bits. The first two nights are spent at secluded bush camps, with the third at the historic former home of Diego Bernacchi in Darlington. Price includes amazing food, fine Tasmanian wines, accommodation, park fees and transport from Hobart.
East Coast CruisesBOAT TOUR
(%03-6257 1300; www.eastcoastcruises.com.au; tours adult/child from $175/65)
See Maria Island's amazing Fossil Cliffs and Painted Cliffs from the water, then check out some seals and sea caves at Iles des Phoques, north of the island. You can even jump in and snorkel with the seals! Another option is to circumnavigate the island, with a stop at Darlington.
Maria Island Marine ReserveDIVING, SNORKELLING
The seas from Return Point to Bishop and Clerk are a designated marine reserve – no fishing allowed, including in the Darlington area. The reserve encompasses the giant kelp forests and caves around Fossil Bay – excellent for diving and snorkelling. Other good snorkelling spots include the ferry pier and Painted Cliffs. Bring a wetsuit if you want to stay submerged for more than five minutes!
4Sleeping
Darlington Camp SiteCAMPGROUND
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.parks.tas.gov.au; unpowered sites s/d/f $7/13/16, extra adult/child $5/2.50)
There are unpowered sites at Darlington (fees apply, but no bookings required), plus free sites at French’s Farm ( GOOGLE MAP ) and Encampment Cove ( GOOGLE MAP ) three to four hours' walk from the ferry pier. There are BBQs, toilets and showers ($1) at Darlington. Fires are allowed in designated fireplaces (often banned in summer). French’s Farm and Encampment Cove have limited tank water – bring your own.
PenitentiaryLODGE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6256 4772; www.tasmaniaseastcoast.com.au; dm/d/f $15/44/50, extra adult/child $10/5)
The brick penitentiary once housed the island’s convicts. These days it's simple, sensible accommodation, with six-bunk rooms, shared bathrooms and coin-operated showers ($1). BYO linen, lighting (there's no electricity), food, cooking gear and ability to dismiss the possibility of ghosts. It's often full of school groups, so plan ahead.
8Getting There & Away
Maria Island FerryFERRY
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0419 746 668; www.mariaislandferry.com.au; adult/child return $35/25, bike/kayak $10/20)
Twice-daily service from December to April between Triabunna and Darlington, with Friday-to-Monday services in other months. Also offers bike hire (per day $20). Fits 40 bums on seats, although at the time of writing a newer/larger/faster/better ferry was being investigated.
Swansea
Pop 780
Founded in 1820, Swansea sits on the western sheltered shores of beautiful Great Oyster Bay, with magnificent views over to Freycinet Peninsula. Once another sleepy seaside village, Swansea's rise has coincided with Tasmania's tourism boom and today it offers good B&B accommodation, restaurants and an interesting museum. You're also in striking distance of some good east-coast vineyards.
1Sights & Activities
East Coast Heritage MuseumMUSEUM
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6256 5072; www.eastcoastheritage.org.au; 22 Franklin St; h10am-4pm)F
Inside Swansea’s original schoolhouse – now also home to the Swansea Visitor Information Centre – this engaging little museum covers Aboriginal artefacts, colonial history and east-coast surfing safaris in the 1960s. Old Dr Story looks like he could use a shot from his medicine still…
Spiky BridgeLANDMARK
About 7km south of town is the rather amazing Spiky Bridge, built by convicts in the early 1840s using thousands of local fieldstones. The main east-coast road used to truck right across it, but these days it's set beside the highway. Nearby Kelvedon Beach and Cressy Beach have deep golden sand and rarely a footprint.
Bark Mill MuseumMUSEUM
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6257 8094; www.barkmilltavern.com.au; 96 Tasman Hwy; adult/child/family $10/6/23; h9am-4pm)
Out the back of the Bark Mill Tavern, this museum explains the processing of black wattle bark to obtain tannin for tanning leathers. The mill was one of the few industries that operated in Swansea through the Great Depression and helped keep the town afloat. There’s also a display on early French exploration along Tasmania’s east coast.
Freycinet VineyardWINERY
(%03-6257 8574; www.freycinetvineyard.com.au; 15919 Tasman Hwy, Apslawn; h10am-5pm)
The Bull family has been growing grapes ’neath the east-coast sun since 1980 – it was the first vineyard on the coast. The vibe at the cellar door is agricultural, not flashy – we like it! Super sauvignon blanc.
Devil’s CornerWINERY
(%03-6257 8881; www.brownbrothers.com.au; Sherbourne Rd, Apslawn; h10am-5pm)
Just past the Great Oyster Bay lookout, Devil’s Corner is one of Tasmania’s largest vineyards, run by the estimable Brown Brothers company. The mod cellar door here overlooks Moulting Lagoon, beyond which is Freycinet Peninsula.
Loontitetermairrelehoiner WalkWALKING
( GOOGLE MAP ; Foreshore)
This trail skirts the headland between Waterloo Beach and the Esplanade, passing a mutton bird (short-tailed shearwater) rookery. During breeding season (September to April) the adult birds return at dusk after feeding at sea. Allow 30 to 50 minutes to loop around the trail (you'll need at least that long to figure out how to pronounce it – it's named after the Aboriginal community that lived in the area).
4Sleeping
Swansea BackpackersHOSTEL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6257 8650; www.swanseabackpackers.com.au; 98 Tasman Hwy; unpowered & powered sites $18, dm/d/tr/q from $31/81/81/87; W)
This hip backpackers, next door to the Bark Mill, was purpose-built a few years ago, and is still looking sharp. Inside are smart, spacious public areas and a shiny stainless-steel kitchen. Rooms surround a shady deck and are clean and shipshape. The bar is right next door.
oSchouten HouseB&B
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6257 8564; www.schoutenhouse.com.au; 1 Waterloo Rd; d incl breakfast $160-200)
This brick-and-sandstone 1844 mansion was built by convicts, and was the centre of 'Great Swanport' before the action shifted a little to the north. Decorated in simple, masculine Georgian style (no frills), its huge rooms now house antique beds and bathrooms. The history-buff owners do a mean pancake breakfast, and have perfected the art of making shortbread.
Swansea Beach ChaletsCABIN
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6257 8177; www.swanseachalets.com.au; 27 Shaw St; d $180-240, extra adult/child $20/10; aWs)
These 20 chic, self-contained, grey-and-blue chalets are just steps from Jubilee Beach. The best ones have amazing 180-degree water vistas – high, wide and handsome. There’s also a BBQ pavilion, a games room and an outdoor pool if the beach doesn't do it for you.
oPiermontCABIN
(%03-6257 8131; www.piermont.com.au; 12990 Tasman Hwy; d $235-355; Ws)
Down a hawthorn-hedged driveway, 10km south of Swansea, these 21 stylish stone cabins array out from an old farmhouse close to the sea. Each unit has a fireplace and a spa. There’s also a pool, tennis court, bikes for hire, sea kayaks and an eponymous restaurant (%03-6257 8131; www.piermont.com.au; 12990 Tasman Hwy; mains $32-38, degustation with/without wine $150/120; h6-8pm, closed Aug) that's been getting positive press. Big on weddings (book ahead).
5Eating
Kate's Berry FarmCAFE
(www.katesberryfarm.com; 12 Addison St; meals $10-14; h9.30am-4.30pm )
Sit under the wisteria-draped pergola at Kate's (3km south of Swansea) and decide which handmade berry incarnation suits your mood: berry ice creams, jams, sauces, chocolates, waffles, pancakes or pies (go for anything with raspberries involved). Great coffee and 'potted' pies (think beef and burgundy or pork and chorizo), too. Look for the signs off the Tasman Hwy.
Ugly Duck OutCAFE, MODERN AUSTRALIAN
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6257 8850; www.theuglyduckout.com.au; 2 Franklin St; mains $12-32; h8.30am-8pm)S
The meaning of the name seems lost on everybody, but this little shore-side diner is one of the best places to eat around here. Burgers, salads, curries, pastas, grills, rolls…locally sourced, homemade, biodegradable and sustainable all the way. Try the wallaby sausage sandwich. The owner loves a chat.
SaltshakerCAFE, MODERN AUSTRALIAN
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6257 8488; www.saltshakerrestaurant.com.au; 11a Franklin St; mains lunch $18-27, dinner $20-39; hnoon-2pm & 5.30pm-late, cafe 8.30am-9pm, to 4pm Jun-Aug)
Ebullient Saltshaker gets the urban vote in Swansea. This bright, chic, waterfront dining room, serves fresh lunches and classy dinners that are big on local seafood (try the crab pasta with spinach, red pepper and white-wine-and-dill sauce). There's a wine list as long as your afternoon, and a takeaway cafe (mains $6 to $12) next door.
8Information
Swansea Visitor Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6256 5072; www.tasmaniaseastcoast.com.au; 22 Franklin St; h9am-5pm; W)
In the old school building on the corner of Noyes St (sharing space with the East Coast Heritage Museum).
Coles Bay & Freycinet National Park
Coles Bay township sits on a sweep of sand looking across the bay to the dramatic pink-granite peaks of the Hazards. It’s a laid-back holiday town with plenty of accommodation (though book well ahead in summer) and some active tour options. The sublime Freycinet National Park, a wild domain of sugar-white beaches and gin-clear water, is the reason everyone is here. The park’s big-ticket sight is the gorgeous goblet of Wineglass Bay.
Online see www.freycinetcolesbay.com.
Pop 310
1Sights & Activities
Cape TourvilleLANDMARK
( GOOGLE MAP )
There’s an easy 20-minute circuit here for eye-popping panoramas of the peninsula’s eastern coastline. You can even get a wheelchair or a pram along here. Also here is Cape Tourville Lighthouse ( GOOGLE MAP ), which is totally spectacular when the sun cracks a smile over the horizon at dawn.
oWineglass Bay WalkWALKING
This route is deservedly one of the most popular walks in Tasmania. You can make the steep climb to the Wineglass Bay Lookout (1½ hours return) for a super view over the bay and peninsula, but if you want to hear the beach squeak beneath your feet, you’re in for a longer walk. The steep descent from the lookout to the bay takes another 30 minutes, making the out-and-back trip from the car park 2½ to three hours.
DON'T MISS
WINEGLASS BAY
You’ve no doubt seen the photos of Wineglass Bay, its perfect arc fringed with clear waters and talc-white sand – it’s a regular on lists of 'World's Top 10 Beaches'. But visiting Wineglass is no lazy day at the beach. To reach the bay on foot is at least a half-day expedition, with 800 steep steps each way.
If you only climb to the viewpoint over the bay, your Wineglass Bay wineglass will likely be overflowing with a horde of other camera clickers (some of the 250,000 who come here annually). To beat the crowds, visit early and trudge right down to the bay on the other side of the viewpoint. Take water, food and sun protection – and have a swim!
TTours
Freycinet Experience WalkWALKING
(%03-6223 7565, 1800 506 003; www.freycinet.com.au; adult/child $2350/2000; hNov-Apr)S
For those who like their wilderness more mild, less wild, Freycinet Experience Walk offers a four-day, fully catered exploration of the peninsula. Walkers return each evening to the secluded, environmentally attuned Friendly Beaches Lodge for superb meals, local wine, hot showers and comfortable beds. The walk covers around 37km.
Freycinet AdventuresKAYAKING
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6257 0500; www.freycinetadventures.com.au; 2 Freycinet Dr, Coles Bay; tour per person $95; htours 8.30am Oct-Apr, 9am May-Sep)
Get an eyeful of the peninsula from the sheltered waters around Coles Bay on these terrific three-hour paddles. There are also daily twilight tours, setting off three hours before sunset. No experience necessary. Kayak hire is also available ($55 per person per day, including safety gear).
Wineglass Bay CruisesBOAT TOUR
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6257 0355; www.wineglassbaycruises.com; Jetty Rd, Coles Bay; adult/child $130/85; htours 10am Sep-May)
Sedate, four-hour cruises from Coles Bay to Wineglass Bay, including champagne, oysters and nibbles. The boat chugs around the southern end of the peninsula, passing Hazards Beach and Schouten Island en route. You’re likely to see dolphins, sea eagles, seals, penguins and perhaps even migrating whales in the right season. Book ahead.
Wineglass Bay Day TourBUS TOUR
(%0407 778 308, 03-6265 7722; www.wineglassbaytours.com.au; adult/child $105/60 )
Full-day minibus tours to the gorgeous goblet, departing Hobart at 7.45am and getting back around 7pm. You'll walk into Wineglass Bay, and also see Spiky Bridge, Cape Tourville and Honeymoon Bay.
All4AdventureADVENTURE SPORTS
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6257 0018; www.all4adventure.com.au; 1 Reserve Rd, Coles Bay; adult/child 2hr $139/89, half-day $239/129)
Get OTBT (off the beaten track) into parts of the national park few others access on these quad-bike tours. Tours depart at 1pm daily (with 30 minutes’ training beforehand), plus 4.30pm November to March. Half-day tours to the Friendly Beaches area depart 8am daily. Bring your driver’s licence.
4Sleeping
Richardsons BeachCAMPGROUND
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6256 7000; www.parks.tas.gov.au; unpowered/powered sites from $13/16)
Tucked behind Richardsons Beach, these camp sites are seriously popular. From late December to mid-February and at Easter, site allocation is via a ballot system: download the application form and submit it by 31 July. Outside the ballot period, book via the Freycinet National Park Visitor Information Centre. National park entry fees apply.
BIG4 Iluka on Freycinet Holiday ParkCARAVAN PARK, HOSTEL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %1800 786 512, 03-6257 0115; www.big4.com.au; end of Reserve Rd; unpowered sites $30, powered sites $36-40, hostel dm/d $30/78, cabins & units d $100-185; W)
Iluka is a big, rambling park that’s been here forever and is an unfaltering favourite with local holidaymakers – book well ahead. The backpackers section is managed by YHA; there are six four-bed dorms, a double and a predictably decent kitchen. The local shop, bakery and tavern are a short stroll down the hill.
Freycinet RentalsRENTAL HOUSE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6257 0320; www.freycinetrentals.com; 5 East Esplanade; cottages $170-250)
This is your hub for renting (mostly older-style, affordable) holiday houses and beach ‘shacks’ in and around Coles Bay. Prices swing wildly between summer and winter, and minimum stays apply for long weekends and Christmas holidays. One option, 81 On Freycinet, has heaps of charm – the stone-and-timber house has three bedrooms, a spiral staircase and Hazards views (double $180).
oEagle PeaksAPARTMENT
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6257 0444, 0419 101 847; www.eaglepeaks.com.au; 11-13 Oyster Bay Ct; d $275-425, beach house $295-445, extra person $50; aW)
These two beautiful Tasmanian-oak and rammed-earth studios are 4km north of Coles Bay. Each unit has its own kitchenette, timber deck and comfortable king-size bed. The immaculate Beach House is here, too, sleeping four. All guests have access to BBQs; eat outside as wattlebirds dart in and out of the foliage. The property is a five-minute walk to Sandpiper Beach.
Saffire FreycinetRESORT
( GOOGLE MAP ; %1800 723 347, 03-6256 7888; www.saffire-freycinet.com.au; 2352 Coles Bay Rd; d incl meals from $1800; aiW)
Saffire is an architectural, gastronomic and wallet-slimming marvel that sets the bar for top-notch Tasmanian hospitality. There are 20 luxe suites here, ‘where the cerulean sky collides with the azure ocean’. The curvilicious main building houses a swanky restaurant, self-serve bar, library, art gallery and spa. There's also a menu of activity options, many included in the price.
Edge of the BayRESORT
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6257 0102; www.edgeofthebay.com.au; 2308 Main Rd; d $218-360, extra person $30; W)
Away from the main holiday hubbub, right on the beach about 4km north of Coles Bay, this small resort dances to the beat of its own drum. It has keenly decorated waterside suites, great staff and cottages sleeping five. Once you've woken up, there are mountain bikes, dinghies and tennis courts for guests to serve-and-volley on. There’s also an excellent restaurant ( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6257 0102; www.edgeofthebay.com.au; 2308 Main Rd, Edge of the Bay; mains $25-39; h6-8pm).
5Eating
Freycinet Cafe & BakeryBAKERY, CAFE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6257 0272; 2 Esplanade; items $6-15; h8am-4pm; W)
This bakery has fuelled many a Freycinet walking epic. Pick up pies, cakes and sandwiches, or lurch into an all-day breakfast after a night at the tavern next door. Unexpected interlopers such as Thai beef salad and freshly squeezed juices also make an appearance.
oFreycinet Marine FarmSEAFOOD
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6257 0140; www.freycinetmarinefarm.com; 1784 Coles Bay Rd; plates $15-25; h9am-5pm Sep-May, 10am-4pm Jun, 11am-4pm Jul & Aug)
Super-popular Freycinet Marine Farm grows huge, succulent oysters ($15 a dozen) in the tidal waters of Moulting Lagoon. Also for your consideration are mussels, rock lobsters, scallops and abalone. Sit on the deck, sip some chardonnay and dig into your seafood picnic, as fresh as Freycinet.
Tombolo FreycinetCAFE, PIZZA
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6257 0124; 6 Garnet Ave; mains $16-24; h8.30am-4pm Mon & Tue, to 8.30pm Wed-Sun)
Local wines and seafood, wood-fired pizzas and the best coffee in town (Villino, roasted in Hobart), all served on a trim little deck overlooking the main street. Ooh look – poached pear and frangipani tarts!
8Information
Freycinet National Park Visitor Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6256 7000; www.parks.tas.gov.au; Freycinet Dr; h8am-5pm Nov-Apr, 9am-4pm May-Oct)
At the park entrance; get your parks passes here. Ask about free ranger-led activities December to February.
8Getting There & Away
Bicheno Coach Service runs buses from Bicheno to Coles Bay ($11.50, 45 minutes) then on to the national park walking tracks ($14.50, 50 minutes). These buses connect with Tassielink east-coast buses from Hobart ($34, three hours) at the Coles Bay turn off. From the turn off to Coles Bay, it’s $9 (30 minutes).
Bicheno
Pop 750
Unlike upmarket Swansea and Coles Bay, Bicheno (pronounced ‘Bish-uh-no’) is still a functioning fishing port. With brilliant ocean views and lovely beaches, it’s madly popular with holidaymakers, but has never sold its soul to the tourism devil and remains rough-edged and unwashed. Food and accommodation prices here will seem realistic if you’re heading north from Freycinet.
1Sights & Activities
oBicheno Motorcycle MuseumMUSEUM
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6375 1485; www.bichenomotorcyclemuseum.com; 33 Burgess St; adult/child $9/free; h9am-5pm, closed Sun Jun-Aug)
Andrew Quin got his first Honda at four years of age, and since then he’s been hooked on motorbikes. You don’t have to be an aficionado, though, to visit his wonderful little museum out the back of his bike-repair shop. It’s all shiny chrome and enamel under the bright lights here, with 60 immaculately restored bikes on display, including the unique Noriel 4 Café Racer – the only one of its kind in the world.
Diamond IslandISLAND
( GOOGLE MAP ; Redbill Beach, off Gordon St)
Off the northern end of Redbill Beach is this photogenic granite outcrop, connected to the mainland via a short, semi-submerged, sandy isthmus, which you can wade across. Time your expedition with low tide – otherwise you might end up chest-deep in the waves trying to get back!
East Coast NatureworldZOO
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6375 1311; www.natureworld.com.au; 18356 Tasman Hwy; adult/child/family $22/10.50/56; h9am-5pm)
About 7km north of Bicheno, this wildlife park is overrun with native and non-native wildlife, including Tasmanian devils, wallabies, quolls, snakes, wombats and enormous roos. There are devil feedings daily at 10am, 12.30pm and 3.30pm, and a devil house where you can see these little demons up close. There's a cafe here, too.
Douglas-Apsley National ParkNATIONAL PARK
(%03-6359 2217; www.parks.tas.gov.au; person/vehicle per day $12/24)
Four kilometres north of Bicheno is the turn-off to Douglas-Apsley National Park, protecting undisturbed dry eucalypt forest, waterfalls, gorges and an abundance of birds and animals. Walk to the swimming hole at Apsley Gorge (two to three hours return) or to the Apsley River Waterhole (15 minutes return). There's basic, walk-in bush camping here, too (free, but national park fees apply).
Foreshore FootwayWALKING
( GOOGLE MAP )
This 3km seaside stroll extends from Redbill Beach to the Blowhole ( GOOGLE MAP ) via Waubedebar's Grave ( GOOGLE MAP ) and the Gulch ( GOOGLE MAP ). When the sea is angry (or just a bit annoyed), huge columns of foamy seawater spurt spectacularly into the air at the Blowhole. Don’t get too close: even on calm days you can be unexpectedly drenched. Return along the path up Whalers Hill ( GOOGLE MAP ), which offers broad views over town. In whaling days, passing sea giants were spotted from here.
TTours
Bicheno Penguin ToursBIRDWATCHING
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6375 1333; www.bichenopenguintours.com.au; Tasman Hwy; adult/child $30/15; hdusk nightly)
Bicheno is one of the top spots in Tasmania to see penguins. Spy them on these one-hour dusk tours as they waddle back to their burrows. Expect a sincere, pure nature experience: no cafes or souvenirs (and no photography allowed). Departure times vary year-round, depending on when dusk falls. Bookings essential.
Bicheno's Glass Bottom BoatBOAT TOUR
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6375 1294, 0407 812 217; bichenoglassbottomboat@activ8.net.au; Esplanade, the Gulch; adult/child $20/5; h10am, noon & 2pm)
This 40-minute trip will give you a watery perspective on Bicheno’s submarine wonders. Tours run October to May from the Gulch, weather permitting (bookings advised in January).
4Sleeping
Bicheno BackpackersHOSTEL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6375 1651; www.bichenobackpackers.com; 11 Morrison St; dm $28-31, d $75-95; W)
This congenial backpackers has dorms spread across two mural-painted buildings, plus the Shack ( GOOGLE MAP ), a 12-berth house a block away on Foster St (set up as six doubles). The communal kitchen is the place to be. There’s also free luggage storage, and the friendly owners can help with bookings.
Bicheno East Coast Holiday ParkCARAVAN PARK
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6375 1999; www.bichenoholidaypark.com.au; 4 Champ St; unpowered/powered sites $25/33, units/cabins from $95/138, extra person $25; W)
This neat, decent park with plenty of grass (not many trees) is right in the middle of town and has BBQs, a camp kitchen, laundry facilities and a kids’ playground. Cabins sleep up to seven. If you're slumming it in the back of a campervan, showers are available for non-stayers ($5).
Bicheno HideawayCABIN
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6375 1312; www.bichenohideaway.com; 179 Harveys Farm Rd; d from $155, extra person $25)
A scatter of architecturally interesting chalets in wildlife-rich bushland a few kilometres south of town, close to the sea and with show-stopping views. Tune your ears into the raucous bird life (including a peacock wandering around), or browse the herb garden for edibles. Minimum stays apply, depending on the cabin and the season.
Diamond Island ResortRESORT
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6375 0100; www.diamondisland.com.au; 69 Tasman Hwy; d $250-510; Ws)
About 2km north of Bicheno, this complex of 27 sun-soaked apartments is surrounded by lawns and has winning views north along the coast. There's private beach access, or a swimming pool if you'd rather have chlorine than salt in your hair. Wander over to namesake Diamond Island itself when the tide is low. On-site Facets ( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6375 0100; www.diamondisland.com.au; 69 Tasman Hwy; mains from $24; h5.30-8.30pm) restaurant, and free penguin tours for guests.
5Eating
Sir Loin BreierDELI
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6375 1182; 57 Burgess St; items $5-20; h8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat)
This superior butcher’s shop has an amazing range of deli items, so stock up for picnics. The shop brims with cooked local crayfish, smoked trout, oysters, gourmet pies, cheeses, dips, terrines, soups, east-coast beer and wine and awesome smoked-quail sausages. Divine…but we can't decode the name – any ideas? Open Sundays in January.
oPasini'sCAFE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6375 1076; 70 Burgess St; mains $10-17; h9am-8pm Tue-Sat, 9am-3pm Sun)
This impressive outfit does Italian staples such as antipasto plates, wood-fired pizzas and lasagne – but oh, so much better than most. The breakfasts border on artisanal, the pastas and gnocchi are homemade and the coffees ('Ooomph' brand, roasted in Hobart) are richly delicious. Takeaways, east-coast beers and wines and sumptuous sandwiches also make the cut. What a winner!
8Information
Bicheno Visitor Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6256 5072; www.tasmaniaseastcoast.com.au; 41b Foster St; h9am-5pm Oct-Apr, 10am-4pm May-Sep)
Assists with local information and accommodation bookings.
The Northeast
The northeast gets relatively few travellers, giving the region a more undeveloped and wild feeling than the rest of the east coast. Pretty, seaside St Helens is the main centre and a good base for exploring the wildlife-rich Mt William National Park, waterfalls and miles of empty coastline. Fishing opportunities abound, with a corresponding array of good seafood eateries.
Online see www.northeasttasmania.com.au.
8Getting There & Around
Calow's Coaches (%03-6372 5166; www.calowscoaches.com.au) services link Bicheno and St Helens ($14, two hours) and St Helens and Launceston ($33, three hours via St Marys). Some buses connect with Tassielink on the Midlands Hwy for southward travel to Hobart.
St Helens
Pop 2180
Wrapping around picturesque Georges Bay, raffish St Helens was established as a whaling town in 1830 and soon after 'swanners' came to harvest the downy under-feathers of the bay's black swans. It's long been an important fishing port and today is home to Tasmania's largest fishing fleet.
About 26km west of St Helens, turn off to tiny Pyengana and the feathery, 90m-high St Columba Falls, the state's highest. Further on is Weldborough (population 50), home to the outstanding Weldborough Hotel (%03-6354 2223; www.weldborough.com.au; 12 Main Rd; unpowered/powered sites $15/30, s/tw/d/f $70/82/98/125; h11.30am-late Tue-Sun); and Derby, an old tin-mining town now home to the Tin Dragon Interpretation Centre & Cafe (Tin Centre; %03-6354 1062; www.trailofthetindragon.com.au/derby; Main St; adult/child/family $12/6/30; h9am-5pm, reduced winter hours). The centre tells the fascinating story of Derby's past as a mining hub – thousands of Chinese miners lived and worked here in the late 1800s.
1Sights & Activities
There are good swimming beaches at Binalong Bay (11km north on Binalong Bay Rd), Jeanneret Beach and Sloop Rock (15km north; take Binalong Bay Rd then The Gardens turn off for both), Stieglitz (7km east on St Helens Point), St Helens Point and Humbug Point.
Gone Fishing ChartersFISHING
(%0419 353 041, 03-6376 1553; www.breamfishing.com.au)
Hook a bream or two on a close-to-shore fishing trip with a local guide.
East LinesWATER SPORTS
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6376 1720; www.eastlines.wordpress.com; 28 Cecilia St; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat & Sun Dec-Feb)
Hires surfboards, wetsuits, snorkelling gear, fishing rods and bicycles. For diving, contact Bay of Fires Dive (03-6376 8335; www.bayoffiresdive.com.au) at Binalong Bay.
4Sleeping
BIG4 St Helens Holiday ParkCARAVAN PARK
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6376 1290; www.sthelenscp.com.au; 2 Penelope St; unpowered/powered sites from $35/37, cabins & villas d $95-225, extra person $22; aWs)
This park rolls itself across a green hillside 1.5km south of town and has plenty of family-centric amenities (games room, jumping pillow, playground, swimming pool). Shoot for one of the smart row of blue-and-cream villas running up the hill. Decent camp kitchen.
St Helens BackpackersHOSTEL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6376 2017; www.sthelensbackpackers.com.au; 9 Cecilia St; dm $27-30, d with/without bathroom $80/65; W)
Spick and span, laid-back and spacious – this main-street hostel has a ‘flashpacker’ section upstairs (good for families) and a couple of dorms out the back with super-chunky handmade timber bunks. Hang out on the deck or ponder the amazing wall of beer-bottle labels (not that this is a party place – keep it down after dark).
Bed in the Treetops B&BB&B
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6376 1318; www.bedinthetreetops.com.au; 701 Binalong Bay Rd; s $220-310, d $250-310, extra person $70, all incl breakfast; W)
Some 7km out of St Helens en route to Binalong Bay, take the (steep!) drive up and up through the trees to reach this secluded, stylish timber home. There are two plush apartments, tastefully furnished and with private decks, spas and verdant views. Rates include afternoon tea or pre-dinner drinks, and a cooked breakfast.
5Eating
Lifebuoy CafeCAFE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0439 761 371; 29 Quail St; mains $8-14; h7.30am-4pm Mon-Sat)
This secretive, bookish little coffee joint is tucked in behind an eccentric antiques shop off the main drag. Reliable coffee and homemade soups are what you're here for, plus salmon burgers, waffles, eggs Benedict and good ol' country scones.
Mohr & SmithCAFE, MODERN AUSTRALIAN
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6376 2039; 55/59 Cecilia St; mains breakfast & lunch $10-22, dinner mains $22-30; h8am-4.30pm Sun-Wed, to 8pm Thu-Sat)
Oh look! A classy urban nook! With a sunny front terrace, snug open-fire lounge area, chilled tunes and sexy staff, M&S would feel right at home on Salamanca Pl in Hobart. Order a pulled-pork quesadilla or some baked eggs with avocado, cheese and chorizo for breakfast and see what the day brings. Good for an evening drink, too.
Blue Shed RestaurantSEAFOOD
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6376 1170; www.blueshedrestaurant.com.au; 1 Marina Pde; mains $29-30, takeaways $10-18; hrestaurant noon-2pm & 6-8pm, takeaways 10am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, from 11.30am Sat & Sun)
This classy harbourside eatery does wonders with seafood. Start with a spicy oyster shooter then move on to the signature crispy squid, or maybe the grilled rock lobster with herb and mascarpone butter. Pork, chicken and beef dishes for the non-piscatorial. There’s a takeaway outlet on the side called Captain's Catch, with the same winning menu since 1994.
8Information
St Helens Visitor Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6376 1744; www.tasmaniaseastcoast.com.au; 61 Cecilia St; h9am-5pm)
Just off the main street behind the library. Sells national parks passes. The town's history is recorded through memorabilia and photographs.
Bay of Fires
The Bay of Fires is exquisite – powder-white sands and cerulean-blue water backed by scrubby bush and lagoons. Despite the proliferation of signature bright-orange lichen on the rocky points and headlands, the early explorers named the bay after seeing Aboriginal fires along the shore.
Binalong Bay (population 210) is the only permanent community at the Bay of Fires and has a beaut swimming beach. To get to the Bay of Fires proper, follow the road towards the ramshackle shack town of The Gardens. The Bay of Fires' northern end is reached via the C843, the road to the Ansons Bay settlement and Mt William National Park.
2Activities
Bay of Fires Lodge WalkWALKING
(%03-6392 2211; www.bayoffires.com.au; tour from $2250; hOct-May)
A four-day, three-night guided adventure through this glorious wave-washed domain. A maximum of 10 guests beachcomb the coastline, led by knowledgeable guides. The first night is spent at a secluded tented beach camp, with the next two at the sublime Bay of Fires Lodge. Based here for day three, you can kayak on Ansons River or just laze around in the sun, working up an appetite for dinner. Fine food and wine included. Magic!
4Sleeping & Eating
There are wonderful free camping spots along the bay, with good options immediately north of Binalong Bay, accessed by road from St Helens (take the turn off to The Gardens). In the northern reaches, there are beachfront sites at Policemans Point, reached by a turn off before Ansons Bay. BYO everything.
Bay of Fires Character CottagesRENTAL HOUSE
(%03-6376 8262; www.bayoffirescottages.com.au; 66-74 Main Rd; d $180-230; aW)
These five well-kitted-out cottages have a million-dollar location overlooking the bay. Interspersed with native scrub, all have mesmerising views in which you can lose yourself as you prod the BBQ on your deck. There are full kitchen and laundry facilities in each unit.
Arthouse TasmaniaRENTAL HOUSE
(%0457 750 035; www.arthousetasmania.com.au; 61 Lyall Rd; 4 people from $500; W)
Lasso some like-minded amigos and book this architect-designed beach house, with polished floorboards, granite benchtops and a wide curvy deck backed by a phalanx of sliding doors. About 50m away is a classic Bay of Fires scene: white sand, rocks studded with orange lichen, and gently rolling waves. Sleeps four; no kids under 12.
oMoresco RestaurantCAFE, MODERN AUSTRALIAN
(%03-6376 8131; www.morescorestaurant.com.au; 64 Main Rd; mains breakfast $11-24, lunch & dinner $22-39; h7.30am-9pm daily, closed Mon Jun-Aug)
Binalong Bay's only business means business: a fantastic food room overlooking the water, serving top-flight meals all day. Roll in for some Huon Valley mushrooms on toast with Tasmanian truffle oil for breakfast, hit the surf, then come back for Moulting Bay oysters and Bass Strait calamari with spicy tomato relish for dinner. Great coffee and even greater wine list.
Mt William National Park
The isolated Mt William National Park (%03-6376 1550; www.parks.tas.gov.au; person/vehicle per day $12/24, camping s/d/f $13/13/16, extra adult/child $5/2.50) features long sandy beaches, low ridges and coastal heathlands. Visit during spring or early summer for blooming wild flowers. The highest point, Mt William (1½-hour return walk), stands only 216m tall, but offers great views. The area was declared a national park in 1973, primarily to protect Tasmania's remaining Forester (eastern grey) kangaroos, which were nearly wiped out by disease in the 1950s and '60s.
At Eddystone Point is the impressive Eddystone Lighthouse, built from granite blocks in the 1890s. A small picnic spot here overlooks a beach with red granite outcrops. You can also camp at Stumpys Bay and Musselroe Top Camp.
The park is well off the main roads, and is accessible from the north or south. The northern end is 17km from Gladstone; the southern end around 60km from St Helens. Watch out for wildlife if driving at night.
Launceston
Pop 106,200
Tasmania’s second city has forever been locked in rivalry with big-smoke Hobart to the south. Launcestonians argue their architecture is more elegant, their parks more beautiful, their surrounding hills more verdant – and even their food scene just downright zestier. And on some of these points it’s hard to argue.
Launceston's beginnings, however, were anything but impressive. When the Reverend Horton visited in 1822, he wrote to his superiors: 'The wickedness of the people of Launceston exceeds all description. If you could witness the ignorance, blasphemy, drunkenness, adultery and vice of every description, you would use every effort to send them more missionaries.' Launceston is still buffing off some rough edges, but is transforming itself into a hedonistic historic town with a glam all its own.
Online see www.visitlauncestontamar.com.au.
Launceston
1Top Sights
3Entertainment
1Sights
oCataract GorgePARK
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6331 5915; www.launcestoncataractgorge.com.au; via Cataract Walk, Trevallyn; chairlift one way adult/child $12/8, return $15/10; h24hr)
A 10-minute wander west of the city centre is magnificent Cataract Gorge. The bushland, cliffs and ice-cold South Esk River here feel a million miles from town. At First Basin there’s a free outdoor swimming pool (November to March), the world’s longest single-span chairlift (9am to 5.30pm), summer concerts, huge European trees and sociable peacocks. Eating options include a cafe, kiosk and the sassy Gorge Restaurant ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6331 3330; www.launcestoncataractgorge.com.au/gorgerestaurant.html; Cataract Gorge; mains lunch from $22, dinner $30-39; hnoon-2.30pm daily, 6.30pm-late Tue-Sat). The whole shebang is impressively floodlit at night.
oQueen Victoria Museum & Art GalleryMUSEUM, GALLERY
(QVMAG; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6323 3777; www.qvmag.tas.gov.au; 2 Wellington St; h10am-4pm)F
Launceston's brilliant QVMAG spreads itself over two locations: the meticulously restored art gallery (colonial painting and decorative arts) on the edge of Royal Park; and the natural, social and technology-focused collections at the museum at the Inveresk Railyards (QVMAG; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2 Invermay Rd, Invermay; h10am-4pm, planetarium shows noon & 2pm Tue-Fri, 2pm & 3pm Sat). The buildings themselves are half the attraction, particularly the Inveresk site, which was Launceston's rail hub until not-so-long ago. Learn about black holes at the planetarium (adult/child/family $6/4/16), or fill a stomach hole at the cafe.
Boag’s BreweryBREWERY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6332 6300; www.boags.com.au; 39 William St; tours adult/child $30/15; htours 11am, 1pm & 3pm)
James Boag’s beer has been brewed on William St since 1881. See the amber alchemy in action on 90-minute tours with tastings afterwards. The free on-site museum sheds further light on brewing history (old TV ads, beer labels and photographs aplenty). Tour bookings essential. Extra tours December to March.
City ParkPARK
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.launceston.tas.gov.au; cnr Tamar & Cimtiere Sts; hdaylight hours)
Expansive City Park has enormous oak and plane trees, an elegant fountain, a glass conservatory, a Victorian bandstand and a playground and mini-train for kids. Peer into your gene pool at the glass-walled Japanese macaque enclosure (8am to 4pm April to September, to 4.30pm October to March), a gift from Japanese sister-city Ikeda.
National Automobile Museum of TasmaniaMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6334 8888; www.namt.com.au; 86 Cimitiere St; adult/child/family $13/7/32.50; h9am-5pm Sep-May, 10am-4pm Jun-Aug)
Revheads get all revved up over the displays here – one of Australia’s slickest presentations of classic and historic cars and motorbikes, all privately owned. The saucy 1969 Corvette Stingray will burn tyre tracks into your retinas.
Central Launceston
1Top Sights
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
5Eating
7Shopping
2Activities
Mountain Bike TasmaniaMOUNTAIN BIKING
(%0447 712 638; www.mountainbiketasmania.com.au)
Runs guided rides along the North Esk River ($100), through the Trevallyn State Recreation Area ($120) and down the slopes of Ben Lomond ($225) – a downhill rush shedding 1050m in altitude as fast as you can say ‘Marzocchi shocks’.
Tasmanian ExpeditionsROCK CLIMBING
(%1300 666 856, 03-6331 9000; www.tasmanianexpeditions.com.au)
Rock-climbing adventures on the dolerite cliffs of Cataract Gorge. It offers half-day ($250 per person, $150 per person for two or more climbers) and full-day ($400 per person, $225 for two or more) climbs. No experience necessary for half-day trips (but you'll need it for a full day). All gear included.
TTours
Tamar River CruisesBOAT TOUR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6334 9900; www.tamarrivercruises.com.au; Home Point Pde)
To check out Launceston from the water, hop aboard the 1890s-style Lady Launceston for a 50-minute exploration of Cataract Gorge and the riverfront (adult/child/family $29/12/70). Longer morning and afternoon cruises (2½ hours, adult/child/family $79/35/179) on the Tamar Odyssey take you downstream to Rosevears and back.
Launceston Historic WalksWALKING TOUR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6331 2213; www.1842.com.au/launceston-historic-walks; per person $15; h4pm Mon, 10am Tue-Sat)
Get your historical bearings with a 1½-hour walking journey through the Georgian, Victorian and modern architecture of the city. Walks depart from the ‘1842’ building, on the corner of St John and Cimitiere Sts.
Valleybrook Wine ToursWINERY
(%03-6334 0586, 0400 037 250; www.valleybrook.com.au; half-/full-day tours from $100/150)
Full-day vino tours visiting six Tamar Valley cellar doors. Morning/afternoon tours visiting four wineries also available. Pick-up/drop-off at your accommodation.
Launceston City Ghost ToursWALKING TOUR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0421 819 373; www.launcestoncityghosttours.com; adult/child/family $25/15/55; hdusk)
Just after sunset, get spooked on a 90-minute wander around the city’s back alleys. Tours depart at dusk from the Royal Oak Hotel (%6331 5346; 14 Brisbane St) – where Cyril is the resident ghost. Bookings essential, and departure time varies throughout the year. Not for little kids.
zFestivals & Events
FestivaleFOOD, ART
(www.festivale.com.au; hFeb)
Three festive days in City Park, with eating, drinking, arts and live bands (usually of the washed-up-but-still-touring variety). Tasmanian food and wine get an appropriate airing.
Junction Arts FestivalART
(www.junctionartsfestival.com.au; hSep)
Five days of offbeat and interesting arts performances, installations, gigs and nocturnal brouhahas.
Tasmanian Breath of Fresh Air Film FestivalFILM
(BOFA; www.bofa.com.au; hNov)
At Inveresk Park screens flicker with the art house, the independent, the innovative – films to inspire thought and change. What a BOFA!
4Sleeping
Arthouse Backpacker HostelHOSTEL
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6333 0222, 1800 041 135; www.arthousehostel.com.au; 20 Lindsay St, Invermay; dm $23-27, s/d $57/67; iW)S
In the old Esplanade Hotel (1881), Arthouse is our favourite Launceston hostel: airy dorms (love the attic rooms); a welcoming sitting room with huge TV, a handsome upstairs balcony (and bell tower) for shooting the breeze, and a BBQ courtyard out the back. It’s also Australia’s first carbon-neutral backpackers (recycling, tree planting and worm farms ahoy!). Bike and camping-gear hire available.
Sportsmans Hall HotelPUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6331 3968; www.sportieshotel.com.au; cnr Charles & Balfour Sts; s $55, d with/without bathroom $80/70; pW)
On hip Charles St, Sporties is a bit of a local institution. It’s been done up recently and the rooms are pretty good: three have bathrooms and others have their own private bathrooms down the hallway. Ask for a room away from the bar on a Friday or Saturday night (live bands).
Launceston BackpackersHOSTEL
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6334 2327; www.launcestonbackpackers.com.au; 103 Canning St; dm/s/tw/tr $24/52/56/75, d with/without bathroom $67/58; pW)
This large Federation house has been gutted to make way for a cavernous backpackers. It’s in a leafy spot looking over Brickfields Reserve, but it’s not the most inspiring hostel in which you’ll ever stay. Still, there are hardly any hostels in Launceston these days, so take what you can get. Rooms are clean and bright.
Treasure Island Caravan ParkCARAVAN PARK
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6344 2600; www.treasureislandtasmania.com.au; 94 Glen Dhu St, South Launceston; unpowered/powered sites $27/32, on-site caravans $60, cabins $90-100; p)
The closest camping to the city centre – about 2.5km to the south – but it's right on the highway and pretty noisy. OK as a last resort. The business was rebranding when we visited, so it might be called something else when you arrive.
oFresh on CharlesAPARTMENT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6331 4299; www.freshoncharles.com.au; 178 Charles St; d $120-150; W)
Take the stairs up from Fresh on Charles ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6331 4299; www.freshoncharles.com.au; 178 Charles St; mains $10-22, shared plates $35-65; h8.30am-3pm Sat-Thu, 8.30am-late Fri; Wv) vegetarian cafe to these two excellent self-contained apartments with polished concrete floors. They're retro, minimal, brilliantly central and great value for money. The pricier unit faces off with the boughs of Princes Sq across the road. Free street parking out the front after dark.
Hi GeorgeB&B
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6331 2144; www.higeorge.com.au; 64 York St; d incl breakfast from $130; pW)
Somewhat confusingly, Hi George isn't on George St. You'll have to wander up York St if you want to say hello. And if you do, you'll find six simple, tasteful en-suite rooms in an appealing 1880 brick house, with no fiddly bits to collect dust. Cooked breakfast included. Nice one!
Quest Launceston Serviced ApartmentsAPARTMENT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6333 3555; www.questlaunceston.com.au; 16 Paterson St; d from $159, 2-bedrooom apt from $249; paiW)
Occupying the beautifully restored Murray Building in the heart of town, these 43 apartments are everything you could want in an upmarket home away from home: spacious, comfortable, fully self-contained and decorated with pizzazz. The architects have retained sections of exposed brickwork here and there as well as the original steel columns, all appearing in unexpected locations throughout.
AuldingtonBOUTIQUE HOTEL
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6331 2050; www.auldington.com.au; 110 Frederick St; d from $129, 2-bedroom apt from $252; pW)
This small boutique hotel has an historic exterior – all earnest brown brick with lacy wrought-iron balconies – that belies the funky internal fit-out. Right in the middle of town yet convent-quiet, it has great city views and the kind of amiable service you just don’t get in the larger hotels.
Kurrajong HouseB&B
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6331 6655; www.kurrajonghouse.com.au; cnr High & Adelaide Sts; d/cottage from $155/175; pW)
Angling for a mature clientele (over 21s only), this quiet 1887 B&B has a just-like-home-but-much-smarter vibe. Outside are blooming roses and a self-contained cottage set up for longer stays. The mile-a-minute Scottish host serves impressive cooked breakfasts in the bright conservatory.
oTwo Four TwoAPARTMENT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6331 9242; www.twofourtwo.com.au; 242 Charles St; d incl breakfast from $250; W)
Now this is a cool renovation! Furniture maker Alan has channelled his craft into four self-contained town houses, each with blackwood, myrtle or Tasmanian-oak detailing. Stainless-steel kitchens, coffee machines, private courtyards and spa baths complete the experience. The Charles St restaurants are on tap.
Hotel CharlesHOTEL
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6337 4100; www.hotelcharles.com.au; 287 Charles St; d from $220; paiW)
Launceston’s hippest hotel was once a dreary hospital. The entrance ramps and sliding doors still feel like you should be arriving in an ambulance, but inside the Charles is all light and bright, with snappy decor, intelligent service and a stylish restaurant. Cheaper rooms are a squeeze; pay a bit more for a studio. All rooms have kitchenettes.
5Eating
oSweetbrewCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6333 0443; 93a George St; mains $4-10; h7am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-3pm Sat, 9am-2pm Sun)
'Melbourne is just a suburb of Launceston,' says the barista at this new cafe. If his coffee is anything to go by, he's not wrong because the sweet brew here is definitely Melbourne-worthy, as are the pastries, baguettes, quiches and classy tarts on the counter. Dig the little booth room out the back!
Le CaféCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6334 8887; 39 Ann St, East Launceston; mains $8-16; h8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat)
Crowded with conversations, this Frenchy little number faces onto St Georges Sq on top of the hill in East Launceston. Beyond the beautiful old shopfront (stained glass, art-deco tiles) you'll find fresh juices, cakes, tarts, chicken-and-pumpkin pie, happy staff and kickin' coffee. Très bon.
oStillwaterMODERN AUSTRALIAN
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6331 4153; www.stillwater.net.au; 2 Bridge Rd, Ritchie's Mill; breakfast $12-23, lunch & dinner mains $29-35; h8.30am-3.30pm daily, 6pm-late Tue-Sat; v)
Still waters run deep here – deep into the realm of outstanding service and excellent Mod Oz, that is. Beside the Tamar, in the renovated Ritchie’s Flour Mill (parts of which date back to 1832), Stillwater does laid-back breakfasts and relaxed lunches…then puts on the ritz for dinner. The best restaurant in Launceston, hands down. The wine cellar also runs deep.
Blue Café BarCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6334 3133; www.bluecafebar.com.au; Inveresk Railyards, Invermay; mains $15-30; h8am-4pm Sun-Thu, til late Fri & Sat, closed evenings Jul & Aug)S
In a converted chunky-concrete power station next to the Tasmanian College of the Arts, this cool cafe serves awesome coffee and creative local, organic dishes to architecture students on the run from the books. Go for the Reuben pizza, with Wagyu, pastrami, Gruyère, sauerkraut and horseradish.
ElaiaCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6331 3307; www.elaia.com.au; 240 Charles St; mains $11-30; h7.30am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 3.30pm Sun; W)
Elaia – Charles St's pioneering cafe. Here's a list of everything you need to know: pizzas, pastas, risottos, salads, all-day breakfasts, alt-country tunes, hip tattooed staff, wrap-around bench seats, live music Friday nights and colourful footpath tables. Hard to beat.
Pickled EveningsINDIAN
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6331 0110; www.pickledevenings.com.au; 135 George St; mains $17-22; h5.30-9.30pm Tue-Sun; v)
Pickled evenings and holidays go hand in hand, but a visit to this excellent Indian restaurant will not (necessarily) involve excessive drinking. What you're here for are the curries, which are generous, spicy and sublime. Good vegetarian options, and takeaways available.
Pierre'sFRENCH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6331 6835; www.pierres.net.au; 88 George St; mains lunch $18-29, dinner $28-38; h11am-late Tue-Fri, 8am-late Sat)
Pierre’s is a Launceston institution (since 1956). Coolly dressed in dark leather with subdued lighting, it offers a tight menu of long-time classics (steak tartare with dijon mustard, cognac and fries) and – some say – the best coffee in Launceston. Dishes are expertly paired with local wines. Oui, oui!
Black Cow BistroSTEAKHOUSE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6331 9333; www.blackcowbistro.com.au; 70 George St; dinner mains $35-47; hnoon-2.30pm Fri, 5.30pm-late daily)
This high-class bistro/steakhouse specialises in Tasmanian free-range, grass-fed, artificial-hormone-free beef. It offers six different cuts and claims to be the best steakhouse in Tassie, which, judging by the restaurant’s runaway success, can’t be too far wrong. Go the Cape Grim eye fillet with truffled Béarnaise sauce. Worth every cent.
MudMODERN AUSTRALIAN
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6334 5066; www.mudbar.com.au; 28 Seaport Blvd; mains lunch $24-29, dinner $35-48; h11am-late)
This hip bar-restaurant is the pick of the eateries in the moneyed Seaport enclave. Hang out with a beer at the bar then migrate to your table for superior Asian-inspired fare (Vietnamese sugar-cooked pork belly, soy-roasted duck, ginger-rubbed salmon). Views of the crews from the North Esk Rowing Club gliding past.
6Drinking & Entertainment
oRoyal Oak HotelPUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6331 5346; 14 Brisbane St; hnoon-late)
Launceston’s best pub. We really don't need to expand on this fact, but it's hard not to – brilliant beers on tap, open-mic nights (last Wednesday of the month), live music Wednesday to Sunday and ballsy 1970s rock on the stereo. If you're too old to be a hipster, but still feel culturally valid, this is the place for you.
oSaint JohnBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0424 175 147; 133 St John St; hnoon-midnight Tue-Sun)
Hipsters rejoice! Bearded barmen pour craft beers from the taps here, the huge beer menu behind them listing your options in exhaustive detail. Out the back is an unexpected little food van, plating up Philly cheese steaks and lamb burgers that you can eat in the bar. The perfect symbiosis!
Princess TheatreTHEATRE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6323 3666; www.theatrenorth.com.au; 57 Brisbane St; hbox office 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat)
Built in 1911 and incorporating the smaller Earl Arts Centre out the back, the old Princess stages an eclectic schedule of drama, dance and comedy, drawing acts from across Tasmania and the mainland.
Aurora StadiumSPECTATOR SPORT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6323 3383; www.aurorastadiumlaunceston.com.au; Invermay Rd, Invermay; tickets adult/child from $25/15)
If you’re in town during football season (April to August), see the big men fly – Melbourne-based AFL team Hawthorn plays a handful of home games each season at Aurora Stadium. ‘BAAAAAALL!!!’
Hotel New YorkLIVE MUSIC
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.hotelnewyork.net.au; 122 York St; h4pm-late Wed, Fri & Sat)
This clubby pub with international pretensions hosts a steady stream of DJs and local and interstate rock acts (not too many from NYC). Cover charges (from $10) usually apply.
Village CinemasCINEMA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %1300 866 843; www.villagecinemas.com.au; 163 Brisbane St; tickets adult/child $17.50/13)
Escape your present reality with Hollywood blockbusters and the saliva-stirring aroma of popcorn.
7Shopping
HarvestMARKET
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0417 352 780; www.harvestmarket.org.au; Cimitiere St car park; h8.30am-12.30pm Sat)S
Excellent weekly gathering of organic producers and sustainable suppliers from around northern and western Tasmania. Craft beer, artisan baked goods, cheese and salmon all feature heavily, beneath little green tents.
Mill Providore & GalleryFOOD
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6331 0777; www.millprovidore.com.au; 2 Bridge Rd; h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5.30pm Sat, to 4pm Sun)
Above Stillwater restaurant at Ritchie’s Flour Mill you’ll find this most excellent treasure trove of good things for the home, kitchen, stomach and soul. There are shelves full of books, food and wine (and books about food and wine), a brilliant deli section for picnic fodder and a browse-worthy community gallery area.
Alps & AmiciFOOD
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6331 1777; www.alpsandamici.com; 52 Abbott St, East Launceston; h7.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2pm Sun)
Super-chef Daniel Alps has set up this smart providore where you can buy his restaurant-quality meals to take home and adore. Classy cakes, cheeses, meats and seafood, the freshest fruit and veg, and Tasmanian beer and wine also available. Good coffee, too.
8Information
Banks and ATMs are located on St John and Brisbane Sts near the mall.
Launceston General HospitalMEDICAL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6348 7111; www.dhhs.tas.gov.au; 287-289 Charles St; h24hr)
24-hour accident and emergency.
Launceston Visitor Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %1800 651 827, 03-6336 3133; www.visitlauncestontamar.com.au; 68-72 Cameron St; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat & Sun)
Everything you ever wanted to know about Launceston, but were afraid to ask.
Main Post OfficePOST OFFICE
(GPO; GOOGLE MAP ; %13 13 18; 68-72 Cameron St; h8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-12.30pm Sat)
Inside a fab 1880s red-brick building.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Bus
The depot for most services is the Cornwall Square Transit Centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; 200 Cimitiere St). Check online for the latest fares and timetables.
Redline CoachesBUS
( GOOGLE MAP ; %1300 360 000; www.tasredline.com.au)
From Launceston west to Westbury, Deloraine, Devonport, Burnie and Stanley, and south to Hobart. Plenty of stops in between.
TassielinkBUS
( GOOGLE MAP ; %1300 300 520; www.tassielink.com.au)
West coast buses via Devonport and Cradle Mountain, and an express service from the Devonport ferry terminal to Hobart via Launceston. Also runs from Launceston to Evandale and Longford.
8Getting Around
To/From the Airport
Launceston Airport ( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6391 6222; www.launcestonairport.com.au; 201 Evandale Rd, Western Junction ) is 15km south of the city on the road to Evandale. Launceston Airporter (%1300 38 55 22; www.airporterlaunceston.com.au; adult/child $18/14) is a shuttle bus running door-to-door services. A taxi into the city costs about $35.
Bicycle
Arthouse Backpacker Hostel rents out bikes for $15 per day.
ArtbikesBICYCLE RENTAL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6331 5506; www.artbikes.com.au; Design Centre Tasmania, cnr Brisbane & Tamar Sts; h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun)
City-bike hire from the Design Centre Tasmania. Bring a credit card and photo ID. Overnight hire costs $22; for a weekend it's $44.
Bus
Metro TasmaniaBUS
(%13 22 01; www.metrotas.com.au)
Runs Launceston's suburban bus network. One-way fares vary with distances (‘sections’) travelled (from $3 to $6.20). A Day Rover pass ($5.30) allows unlimited travel after 9am. Buses depart from the two blocks of St John St between Paterson and York Sts. Many routes don’t operate in the evenings or on Sundays.
Free Tiger BusBUS
(%03-6323 3000; www.launceston.tas.gov.au)
Runs from Inveresk to Princes Park, Windmill Hill and back to Inveresk every 30 minutes between 10am and 3.30pm Monday to Friday.
Car
The big-name rental companies have either Launceston Airport or city offices. Smaller operators have cars from around $40 per day:
Rent For LessCAR RENTAL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %1300 883 739, 03-6391 9182; www.rentforless.com.au; 153 St John St; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5pm Sat, 9am-1pm Sun)