CBD produces quality baked goods right in the heart of the CBD (Central Business District). Drop by for a savoury snack (pies, sausage rolls, croissants, pizza slices, sandwiches), or a sweet treat with coffee. Seating is limited to a modest scattering of tables and a window bench.

Down a teensy Little Korea lane is this backdoor gem – an authentic barbecue joint that’s low on interior charisma but high on quality and quantity. Noisy, cramped and chaotic, yes, but the chilli seafood soup will have you coming back tomorrow.

All we can say about this cafe in the foyer of the Harry Seidler–designed Alliance Française building is ooh la la. The classic French snacks (think pastries, baguettes and croque-monsieur) are delicious, and the surrounds are extremely smart.

Dumpling junkies shuffle down a dirty lane and into the bowels of an old warehouse for a taste of Mr Wong's deliciously addictive Cantonese fare. There's a dark-edged glamour to the cavernous basement dining room. Despite seating 240, there are often queues out the door.

Tucked away in the basement of his Rockpool Bar & Grill is Neil Perry's darkly atmospheric temple to the cuisine of China's western provinces, especially Sichuan, Yunnan, Hunan, Jiangxi, Guangxi and Xingjiang. Expect plenty of heat and lots of thrills.

An exuberant chorus of welcome greets guests on arrival at this wonderful ramen house, tucked away near the Westfield food court. Founded in Fukuoka in 1985 and now in 11 countries, the Sydney branch serves all the soupy, noodley favourites.

Located directly across from the Greek consulate in the grand dining room of the Hellenic Club, this wonderful restaurant brings all the zing and drama of the Mediterranean to the heart of the city. Chef Peter Conistis' menu covers the classics, with his own unique tweaks.

The noodles and buns are great, but it's the dumplings that made this Taiwanese chain famous, delivering an explosion of fabulously flavoursome broth as you bite into their delicate casings. Come early, come hungry, come prepared to share your table. They also have stalls in The Star and Westfield Sydney food courts.

Part of the so-hot-right-now Ivy complex, Ash St Cellar is an urbane lane-side wine bar that does excellent cheese, charcuterie and shared plates. Sit outside if it’s not too gusty and agonise over the 200-plus wines on the list. Despite the suits sweeping through, the vibe is relaxed and unhurried.

Down a clandestine security driveway, this extraordinary restaurant is for those seeking a culinary journey rather than a simple stuffed belly. Settle in for 10-plus courses of French- and Japanese-inflected food from the creative genius of Japanese-born Tetsuya Wakuda. Book way ahead.

The Neil Perry empire now stretches to eight acclaimed restaurants in three cities, and this grand dining room is the mothership. After 25 years, Rockpool's creations still manage to wow diners. Expect crafty, contemporary cuisine with Asian influences, faultless service and an alluring wine list.

Pressed-tin ceilings, huge columns, oversized windows and modern furniture make the interior design almost as interesting as the food. This is Sydney fine dining at its best; thick wallet and fancy threads a must. Seafood fills around half of the slots on the menu.

There's nothing washed out or brown-tinged about Sepia's food: Martin Benn's picture-perfect creations are presented in glorious technicolour, with each taste worth a thousand words. A Japanese sensibility permeates the boundary-pushing menu, earning Sepia the city's top dining gong.

You'll feel like a 1930s Manhattan stockbroker when you dine at this sleek operation in the art deco City Mutual Building. The bar is famous for its dry-aged, full-blood Wagyu burger (make sure you order a side of the hand-cut fat chips), but carnivores will be equally enamoured with the succulent steaks, stews and fish dishes served in the grill.

Get here early (from 5.30pm) if you want to score a table without queuing, because this eat-and-run Malaysian joint is one of the most popular cheapies in the city. The satays are cooked over charcoal and are particularly delicious when accompanied by a flaky golden roti.

Cooler than your average Thai joint, this Thaitown linchpin is so popular that a list is posted outside for you to affix your name to should you want a table. Expat Thais flock here for the dishes that don't make it onto your average suburban Thai restaurant menu – particularly the more unusual sweets.

The Star has done a great job of filling its ground-floor food court with some of the best operators of their kind, such as Din Tai Fung for dumplings, Messina for gelato and Adriano Zumbo for sweet delights.

The man who introduced Sydney to the macaron has indulged his Willy Wonka fantasies in this concept shop, where baked treats are artfully displayed amid pink neon. The macarons (or zumbarons, as they're known here), tarts, pastries and cakes are as astonishing to look at as they are to eat.

Bringing an injection of Toyko glam to the edge of the casino complex, Sokyo serves well-crafted sushi and sashimi, delicate tempura, tasty robata grills and sophisticated mains. It also dishes up Sydney's best Japanese-style breakfast. Solo travellers should grab a counter seat by the sushi kitchen to watch all the action unfurl.

Beyond the architects and investment groups along Jones Bay Wharf is this romantic seafood restaurant. The city lights work their magic all too easily here, aided by excellent food and an indulgent cocktail list. Aside from all that romance stuff, it has the coolest toilets in town – the clear-glass stalls frost over when you close the door.

Ester breaks the trend for hip new eateries by accepting bookings, but in other respects it exemplifies Sydney's contemporary dining scene: informal but not sloppy; innovative without being overly gimmicky; hip, but never try-hard. Influences straddle continents and dishes are made to be shared. If humanly possible, make room for dessert.

A sensational neighbourhood diner, where only the best local produce is used and everything – from the home-baked bread and hand-churned butter to the nougat finale – is made from scratch. The food is creative and comforting at the same time; a rare combination.

Queuing outside this teensy bakery is an essential Surry Hills experience. It sells a tempting selection of pastries, cakes, bread and sandwiches, along with sausage rolls which are near legendary in these parts. There are a few tables inside but on a fine day you're better off on the street.

An industrial fitout and Latin American menu await here at Reuben Hills (aka hipster central). Fantastic single-origin coffee and fried chicken, but the eggs, tacos and baleadas (Honduran tortillas) are no slouches, either.

If the alpine scene on the wall induces the urge to yodel, quickly shove one of Sample's deliciously moist muffins in your mouth. The food is limited to some lovely sweet things to go with coffee, which is the real star of the show here. Enter from Holt St.

Some of Sydney's best breakfasts are served between the demure dark wooden walls of this small streetside cafe. Top-notch coffee and a terrific selection of tea will gear you up to face the world.

Once the preserve of expat Thais, this little red-hot chilli pepper now has queues out the door. No wonder, as everything we’ve tried from the 70-plus dishes on the menu is superfragrant and superspicy. It's been so successful that they've opened an upmarket version in Darlinghurst ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9332 2445; 296-300 Victoria St; mains $18-30; h11.30am-3.30pm Thu-Sun, 5.45-10.30pm daily; v; dKings Cross).

If it's boring old bacon and eggs you're after, look elsewhere. Devon shamelessly plunders the cuisines of 'multicultural Australia' to deliver an extremely creative menu, with plenty of twists on old favourites. There's even an 'Ogre's Happy Meal' (ox-tongue, apparently – we weren't tempted).

Lamb and suckling pig are spit-roasted for eight hours before the doors even open at this acclaimed and extremely hip restaurant, devoted to the robust meatiness of Argentinian cuisine. Arrive early to avoid a lengthy wait, although there's no hardship in hanging out upstairs at the very cool Gardel's Bar until a table comes free.

Devotees flock to this century-old, wedge-shaped printing-press building to feast on fragrant modern Thai dishes, and to sip delicately flavoured and utterly delicious cocktails. Sit at shared tables or at the bar.

The coolest progeny of Sydney’s tapas explosion, Bodega has a casual vibe, good-lookin’ staff and a funky matador mural. Dishes vary widely in size and price. Wash 'em down with Spanish and South American wine, sherry, port or beer, and plenty of Latin gusto.

Marrying Chinese and Japanese dishes with native Australian bush ingredients, this sexy, shiny, black-walled corner eatery is completely unique and extremely impressive. Dishes range considerably in size and are designed to be shared; confer with your waiter about quantities.

A Sydney incarnation of a Melbourne legend, MoVida serves top notch tapas and raciones (larger shared plates), and a great selection of Spanish wines. Book well ahead for a table or get in early for a seat by the bar.

Unshaven graphic artists roll cigarettes at little outdoor tables in the bricky hollows of deepest Surry Hills, while inside impassioned, bouncing-off-the-walls caffeine fiends prepare their beloved brews, along with a tasty selection of cafe fare.

As much as we lament the passing of live rock at the Excelsior Hotel, we have to admit that the hip Mexican cantina that's taken over the band room is pretty darn cool. The food's tasty, inventive, and, at $5 per taco, fantastic value.

It's a long way from a two-Michelin-starred Mayfair restaurant to grungy old Devonshire St for chef Jeremy Bentley, although cuisinewise, perhaps not as far as you'd think. His food is simply extraordinary – complex, precisely presented and full of flavour. And while there's white linen on the tables, the atmosphere isn't the least bit starchy.

When he's not busy terrorising contestants on TV cooking shows, Irish-born chef Colin Fassnidge can be found cranking out hearty, meaty dishes at one of his Sydney eateries, the newest of which is this big, fun buzzy place. Solo diners should grab a seat by the kitchen for dinner with a show.

Join the queues of people who look like they never eat ice cream at the counter of Sydney's most popular gelato shop. Clearly even the beautiful people can't resist quirky flavours such as figs in Marsala and salted caramel. The attached dessert bar serves sundaes.

Bill Granger almost single-handedly started the Sydney craze for stylish brunching. This sunny corner cafe with its newspaper-strewn communal table was the original; there are other branches in Surry Hills and Bondi Beach.

This atmospheric eatery is run by television presenters Luke Nguyen (Luke Nguyen's Vietnam), Mark Jensen (Ready Steady Cook) and Pauline Nguyen (author of the excellent Secrets of the Red Lantern cookbook-cum-autobiography). It serves modern takes on classic Vietnamese dishes.

Coffee is undoubtedly the main event at this cool little charcoal-coloured roastery, but Toby's is also a great place for a quick sandwich, a veggie wrap or a fat muffin. And the caffeine? Strong, perfectly brewed and usually fair trade.

The first cab off the rank as you walk onto Woolloomooloo's wharf is Aki's. And you need walk no further: this is beautifully presented, intuitively constructed high-Indian cuisine, supplemented by a six-page wine list showcasing local and international drops.

Forget the glamorous waterfront location and the A-list crowd – Otto will be remembered for single-handedly dragging Sydney’s Italian cooking into the new century with dishes such as strozzapreti con gamberi (artisan pasta with fresh Yamba prawns, tomato, chilli and black olives). Bookings essential.

Gaze over the Woolloomooloo marina and city skyline as you tuck into deliciously inventive dishes drawing inspiration from all over Asia. Plates are designed to be shared, although waiters can arrange half serves for solo diners.

If you're wearing a flat cap, sprouting a beard and obsessed by coffee, chances are you'll recognise this tiny room as your spiritual home in the Cross. The food's limited to sandwiches, salads and such – tasty and uncomplicated.

Open since 1938 (except for a few years when founder Harry ‘Tiger’ Edwards was on active service), Harry’s has served meat pies to everyone from Pamela Anderson to Frank Sinatra and Colonel Sanders. You can’t leave without trying a Tiger: a hot meat pie with sloppy peas, mashed potato, gravy and tomato sauce.

A surviving slice of the old bohemian Cross, this tiny cafe hasn't changed much in over 60 years. The walls are covered in movie-star memorabilia, and Vittorio Bianchi still serves up strong coffee, omelettes and abrasive charm, as he's done for over 40 years.

Offering a cheeky, irreverent take on Asian cooking (hence the name – geddit?), Ms G's is nothing if not an experience. It can be loud, frantic and painfully hip, but the adventurous combinations of pan-Asian and European flavours have certainly got Sydney talking.

Glide through the shiny brass sliding door and take a seat at the polished concrete communal table which runs the length of this stylish Japanese restaurant. The food is just as artful as the surrounds, with tasty izakaya-style bites emanating from both the raw bar and the hibachi grill.

This underlit trattoria has them queuing at the door (especially on weekends). The intimate room showcases seasonal Italian dishes cooked with Mediterranean zing. Lots of busy black-clad waiters, lots of Italian chatter, lots of oversized sunglasses. No bookings.

With limited bench seating inside and a few tables on the lane, tiny Wilbur's is an informal spot for a quick bite on what's become the Cross' coolest cafe strip. Expect simple, straightforward food that is expertly assembled.

The glassed-in terrace of the Hughenden Hotel is the charmingly informal setting for this zippy bistro. The menu is excellent, revelling in classics such as cheesy souffles, rich terrines, steak frites topped with butter, and fall-apart slow-roasted lamb shoulder.

You can't go far in Paddington without tripping over a beautiful old pub with amazing food. This is the best of them, famous for its slow-cooked and nose-to-tail meat dishes, although it also offers fabulously fresh seafood dishes and a delectable array of desserts. The bar menu (mains $19 to $29) is a more affordable option.

There may be a celebrity at centre stage (TV regular Matt Moran) but the real star of this show is the pretty kitchen garden, which wraps around the dining room and dictates what's on the menu. Meat from the Moran family farm and local seafood feature prominently too.

These ducks are a fair waddle from the water, but that doesn't stop queues forming outside the graffiti-covered walls for weekend breakfasts. The adventurous chefs have a strong commitment to using local, organic and fair-trade food whenever possible.

Carrying on the tradition of its Darlinghurst sister, Bondi's A Tavola gathers around a big communal marble table where, before the doors open, the pasta-making action happens. Expect robust flavours, sexy waiters and delicious home-made pasta.

Stare down the barrel of a smoking hot bagel and ask yourself one question: Wagyu corned beef Reuben, or home-made pastrami and Russian coleslaw? In the evening the menu sets its sights on steak, lamb shoulder and slow-roasted eggplant.

For a Bondi brunch, you can't go past the trusty 'Trat', as it's known in these parts. Tables spill out onto Campbell Pde for those hungry for beach views, while inside there's a trad trat feel: wooden tables, and the obligatory Tuscan mural and black-and-white photography. As the day progresses, pizza, pasta and risotto dominate the menu.

Poised above the famous Icebergs swimming pool, Icebergs’ views sweep across the Bondi Beach arc to the sea. Inside, bow-tied waiters deliver fresh, sustainably sourced seafood and steaks cooked with elan. To limit the hip-pocket impact, call in at lunchtime for a pasta and salad.

This friendly neighbourhood bistro offers a crowd-pleasing menu of French favourites.

Not put off by the grungy aesthetics, the ear-splitting heavy metal or the fact that the building was previously a sexual health clinic and a Masonic Temple? Then head up to the mezzanine of this dimly lit hipster bar for some of the best burgers and fried chicken in town.

Wise folks follow the black star to pay homage to excellent coffee, a large selection of sweet things and a few very good savoury things (gourmet pies and the like). There are only a couple of tables; it's more a snack-and-run or picnic-in-the-park kind of place.

The best name for a cafe ever? We think so. Luckily Fleetwood Macchiato backs it up with excellent coffee, delicious cooked breakfasts, tasty sandwiches and home-made cakes, preserves, pickles, yoghurt and mayonnaise.

Campos, next door, might be the pinnacle of Sydney's caffeine culture, but if you want to sit down, read the paper and eat something more substantial, Luxe is the dux. The menu stretches to cooked brekkies, pasta and burgers, and the counter of this industrial-chic bakery-cafe is chocka with chunky sandwiches, moist cakes and delicate tarts.

Relax over a few drinks and a progression of small plates (we love those polenta chips!) in the front bar, or make your way to the rear to enjoy soundly conceived and expertly cooked dishes from across the globe. The decor is industrial-chic and the vibe is alternative – very Newtown.

The Riv's head chef, Brad Sloane, worked under the legendary Marco Pierre White in London. British expats flock here to try his nose-to-tail dishes in the elegant upstairs dining room, while locals are equally keen on the pizzas served in the downstairs bar.

Run by surfer lads serving fair-trade organic coffee from a bathroom-sized shop, Barefoot heralds a new wave of Manly cool. Food is limited but the Belgian chocolate waffles go magically well with a macchiato.

Set inside Manly Wharf, this branch of the Thaitown favourite misses out on the harbour views but delivers on flavour.

Occupying an altogether more glamorous location than its Kings Cross parent, Hugos Manly serves the same acclaimed pizzas but tops them with harbour views and an expanded Italian menu. A dedicated crew concocts cocktails, or you can just slide in for a cold beer.

Sit on the large timber deck facing Pittwater or grab a table on the lawn out front – either option is alluring at Palm Beach's most popular cafe. The food (try the legendary fish and chips or the vibrant salads) is nearly as impressive as the views, and that's really saying something.

Housed within a heritage-listed beach house overlooking the ocean, this multi-award-winning Sardinian restaurant serves specialities such as oven-roasted suckling pig and traditional flatbread. Your best bet is to plump for the tasting menu (from $105) and thereby eliminate any possible order envy.