Richmond

Pop 750

Straddling the Coal River, 27km northeast of Hobart, historic Richmond was once a strategic military post and convict station on the road to Port Arthur. Riddled with 19th-century buildings, it’s arguably Tasmania’s premier historic town, but like the Rocks in Sydney and Hahndorf in Adelaide, it’s in danger of becoming a parody of itself, with the passing tourist trade picking over the bones of the colonial past. That said, Richmond is undeniably picturesque and kids love chasing the ducks around the riverbanks.

See www.richmondvillage.com.au for more information.

1Sights & Activities

Richmond BridgeBRIDGE

( GOOGLE MAP ; Wellington St)

This chunky but not inelegant bridge still funnels traffic across the Coal River and is the town’s proud centrepiece. Built by convicts in 1823 (making it the oldest road bridge in Australia), it’s purportedly haunted by the ‘Flagellator of Richmond’, George Grover, who died here in 1832.

Bonorong Wildlife CentreWILDLIFE RESERVE

(icon-phonegif%03-6268 1184; www.bonorong.com.au; 593 Briggs Rd, Brighton; adult/child/family $25/11/65; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm)icon-sustainableS

This impressive operation is about 17km west of Richmond (or alternatively, signposted off Hwy 1 at Brighton). From Richmond, take Middle Tea Tree Rd, and turn left into Tea Tree Rd after 11km. ‘Bonorong’ derives from an Aboriginal word meaning ‘native companion’ – look forward to Tasmanian devils, koalas, wombats, echidnas and quolls. The emphasis here is on conservation, education and the rehabilitation of injured animals.

ZooDoo Wildlife ParkWILDLIFE RESERVE

(icon-phonegif%03-6260 2444; www.zoodoo.com.au; 620 Middle Tea Tree Rd; adult/child $25/13; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm)

Six kilometres west of Richmond on the road to Brighton (Middle Tea Tree Rd), ZooDoo has ‘safari bus’ rides, playgrounds, picnic areas and half of Dr Dolittle’s appointment book, including tigers, llamas, Tasmanian devils and wallabies. Hungry white lions chow down at regularly scheduled intervals.

Richmond Gaol Historic SiteHISTORIC BUILDING

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-6260 2127; www.richmondgaol.com.au; 37 Bathurst St; adult/child/family $9/4/22; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm)

The northern wing of the remarkably well-preserved jail was built in 1825, five years before the penitentiary at Port Arthur, making it Australia's oldest jail. And like Port Arthur, fascinating historic insights abound, but the mood is pretty sombre.

Old Hobart Town Historical Model VillageHISTORIC SITE

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-6260 2502; www.oldhobarttown.com; 21a Bridge St; adult/family $14/35; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm)

A painstaking re-creation of Hobart Town in the 1820s, built from the city’s original plans – the kids will love it. Admission is a bit steep, but it's actually pretty amazing, with some solid historical insights.

Richmond Park Boat HouseBOATING

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-6260 1099, 0401 233 652; www.richmondparkboathouse.com.au; 56 Bridge St; rowboats per 30 min $25, bikes per hr $25; icon-hoursgifh10am-4pm Wed-Sun)

Hire a bike and wheel yourself around the town, or jump in a little rowboat down on the river and dodge the local ducks.

WORTH A TRIP

COAL RIVER VALLEY WINE REGION

Richmond and nearby Cambridge are at the centre of Tasmania’s fastest-growing wine region, the Coal River Valley. Some operations here are sophisticated affairs with gourmet restaurants; others are small, family-owned vineyards with cellar doors open by appointment. See www.winesouth.com.au for more info. Here are a couple of spots to get you started.

Puddleduck VineyardWINERY

(icon-phonegif%03-6260 2301; www.puddleduck.com.au; 992 Richmond Rd, Richmond; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm)

Small, family-run vineyard producing just 1200 cases per year: shoot for the riesling, pinot noir and 'Bubbleduck' sparkling white. Snaffle a cheese platter ($20), or fire up the barbecues (BYO meat) for lunch by the lake with Lucky the duck.

Frogmore CreekWINERY

(icon-phonegif%03-6274 5844; www.frogmorecreek.com.au; 699 Richmond Rd, Cambridge; 4/5/6-course menu $80/95/125, with wine $100/125/160; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm, restaurant noon-4pm)

Overlooking the Mt Pleasant Observatory, 9km southwest of Richmond, corporate Frogmore Creek has a flashy restaurant serving lunch, along with excellent chardonnay, pinot noir and sticky botrytis riesling. Don't miss Flawed History, an in-floor jigsaw by local artist Tom Samek. Restaurant bookings recommended (no kids).

4Sleeping & Eating

Barilla Holiday ParkCARAVAN PARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1800 465 453, 03-6248 5453; www.barilla.com.au; 75 Richmond Rd, Cambridge; unpowered/powered sites $34/40, cabins & units $80-150; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

A decent option for those with wheels, Barilla is midway between Hobart (14km) and Richmond (14km). It’s close to the airport, the Coal River Valley wineries and a couple of good wildlife parks. The grounds are dotted with well-kept cabins, plus there's minigolf (oh, how quaint) and an on-site restaurant serving wood-fired pizzas.

icon-top-choiceoDaisy Bank CottagesB&B

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-6260 2390; www.daisybankcottages.com.au; 78 Middle Tea Tree Rd; d $150-190)

This place is a rural delight: two spotless, stylish self-contained units (one with spa) in a converted 1840s sandstone barn on a working sheep farm. There are loft bedrooms, views of the Richmond rooftops and plenty of bucolic distractions for the kids. The surrounding farmland has interpretative walks and soaring birds of prey. Breakfast provisions daily. Hard to beat.

Number 3 Henry StreetCOTTAGE

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-6260 2847; www.numberthree.com.au; 3 Henry St; d $350, extra person $75; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

This lovely old house has had its innards extended, reorganised and modernised – it still looks quaint from the street, but out the back things are utterly contemporary. Expect muted hues, plush linen, flash bathrooms (plural) and a private flagstone-paved courtyard. Sleeps four in two bedooms (the upstairs one is built into the roof space – fabulously angular!).

Richmond BakeryBAKERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-6260 2628; 50 Bridge St, off Edward St; items $3-8; icon-hoursgifh7.30am-6pm)

Pies, pastries, sandwiches, croissants, muffins and cakes – takeaway or munch in the courtyard. If the main street is empty, chances are everyone is in here.

8Getting There & Away

Tassielink (icon-phonegif%1300 653 633; www.tassielink.com.au) runs multiple buses to Richmond every day (just two on Saturday, one Sunday). The one-way fare is $7.60 (45 minutes).

Richmond Tourist Bus (icon-phonegif%0408 341 804; www.hobartshuttlebus.com/richmond-village.html; adult/child return $30/20; icon-hoursgifh9am Sun-Fri, 12.15pm daily) runs daily services from Hobart, allowing three hours to explore Richmond (unguided) before returning. Call for bookings and pick-up locations.

Mt Field National Park

Mt Field, 80km northwest of Hobart, was declared a national park in 1916 and is famed for its alpine moorlands, lakes, rainforest, waterfalls, walks, skiing and rampant wildlife. It’s an accessible day trip from Hobart, or you can bunk down overnight.

1Sights & Activities

Russell FallsWATERFALL

Don't miss the magnificently tiered, 45m-high Russell Falls, an easy 20-minute return amble from behind the visitor information centre. The path is suitable for prams and wheelchairs. There are also easy walks to Lady Barron Falls and Horseshoe Falls, and longer bushwalks.

Mt MawsonSKIING

(www.mtmawson.info; skiing full day adult/child $30/15, half-day $20/10, ski tow deposit $10; icon-hoursgifh10am-4pm Sat & Sun mid-Jul–mid-Sep)

Skiing at Mt Mawson is sometimes an option, when nature sees fit to deposit snow (infrequently in recent years). Snow reports are available online at www.ski.com.au, or via a recorded message service.

4Sleeping

Mt Field National Park CampgroundCAMPGROUND

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-6288 1149; www.parks.tas.gov.au; off Lake Dobson Rd; unpowered/powered sites per 2 adults $16/20, extra adult $7/9, extra child $3/4)

Run by the park administration, this self-registration campground is a few hundred metres past the visitor information centre and has adequate facilities (toilets, showers, laundry and free barbecues). No bookings. Site prices are additional to national park entry fees.

Lake Dobson CabinsCABIN

(icon-phonegif%03-6288 1149; www.parks.tas.gov.au; Lake Dobson Rd; cabins up to 6 people $45)

Get back to your rootsy mountaintop essence at these three simple, six-bed cabins 16km inside Mt Field National Park. All are equipped with mattresses, cold water, wood stove and firewood (there’s no power), with a communal outdoor toilet block. BYO gas lamps, cookers, utensils and bedding. Book via the visitor centre or online.

icon-top-choiceoDuffy's Country AccommodationCOTTAGE

(icon-phonegif%03-6288 1373; www.duffyscountry.com; 49 Clark's Rd, Westerway; d $130-145, extra adult/child $25/15; icon-wifigifW)

Overlooking a field of raspberry canes are two immaculate self-contained cottages, one a studio-style cabin for couples, the other a two-bedroom relocated rangers’ hut from Mt Field National Park for families. There are also a couple of cute two-bed bunkhouses (one next to each cottage) where you can file the teenagers. Breakfast provisions available. Wallabies a distinct possibility.

8Information

Mt Field National Park Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

(icon-phonegif%03-6288 1149; www.parks.tas.gov.au; 66 Lake Dobson Rd; icon-hoursgifh8.30am-5pm Nov-Apr, 9am-4pm May-Oct)

8Getting There & Away

The drive to Mt Field through the Derwent Valley and Bushy Park is an absolute stunner, with river rapids, hop fields, old oast houses, rows of poplars and hawthorn hedgerows. There’s no public transport to the park, but some Hobart-based tour operators offer Mt Field day trips.

The Southeast

The Southeast offers rolling hills and valleys, apple orchards, riverside towns and whisper-still harbours and inlets. It's a gentle, rather English-feeling collection of agrarian communities, with Bruny Island and Hartz Mountains National Park within easy reach.

Online, see www.huontrail.org.au.

35-the-southeast-aus18

8Getting There & Around

Metro Tasmania (icon-phonegif%13 22 01; www.metrotas.com.au) buses 94–97 run regularly from Hobart to Kettering ($8, 50 minutes), the access point for Bruny Island. Bus 98 rocks in/out of Cygnet from Hobart ($10.50, 80 minutes) once daily (Monday to Friday only) each way.

Tassielink (icon-phonegif%1300 300 520; www.tassielink.com.au) buses service the Huon Hwy from Hobart through Huonville ($10.50, 45 minutes) several times a day, with some continuing to Cygnet ($12.50, 1¼ hours), Geeveston ($14, 1¼ hours) and Dover ($21, 1¾ hours).

Bruny Island

Pop 600

Bruny Island is almost two islands joined by a narrow, sandy isthmus called the Neck. Famous for its wildlife (little penguins, echidnas, mutton birds, wallabies), it's a sparsely populated and undeveloped retreat, soaked in ocean rain in the south, and dry and scrubby in the north. It was named after French explorer Bruni D'Entrecasteaux.

You need a few days to appreciate Bruny's isolated coastal communities, swimming and surf beaches, forests and walking tracks – don't try to cram it into a day trip, especially on holiday weekends when there are long waits for the ferry.

Accommodation is largely in self-contained cottages and guesthouses. A car or bicycle is essential for getting around. Supplies are available at the well-stocked Adventure Bay general store and a small shop at Alonnah. Note that some island roads are unsealed: not all car-rental companies are cool with this concept.

1Sights & Activities

Bruny Island NeckNATURE RESERVE, VIEWPOINT

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.brunyisland.org.au/about-bruny-island/the-neck)

Park halfway across the isthmus – aka the Neck – between North and South Bruny and climb the 279 steps (correct?) to the Truganini Memorial for broad views of both ends of the island. Another timber walkway crosses the Neck to the beach on the other side. Keep to the boardwalk in this area: mutton birds and little (fairy) penguins nest here. Your best chance of seeing the penguins is at dusk in the warmer months.

South Bruny National ParkNATIONAL PARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-6293 1419; www.parks.tas.gov.au; car/person per day $24/12)

There's terrific bushwalking here. At Fluted Cape, east of Adventure Bay, an easy trail winds out to the old whaling station at Grass Point (1½ hours return). From here follow the shore to Penguin Island, accessible at low tide, or complete the more difficult cape circuit (2½ hours return).

The park’s southwestern portion comprises the Labillardiere Peninsula, featuring jagged coastal scenery and a lighthouse. Walks here range from leisurely beach meanderings to a seven-hour circuit of the entire peninsula.

Bligh Museum of Pacific ExplorationMUSEUM

(icon-phonegif%03-6293 1117; www.southcom.com.au/~jontan/index.html; 876 Main Rd, Adventure Bay; adult/child/family $4/2/10; icon-hoursgifh10am-4pm)

This curio-crammed museum details the local exploits of explorers Bligh, Cook, Furneaux, Baudin and, of course, Bruni d’Entrecasteaux. The engaging collection includes maps, charts and manuscripts, many of them originals or first editions.

TTours

Bruny Island CruisesBOAT TOUR

(Pennicott Wilderness Journeys; GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-6234 4270; www.brunycruises.com.au; adult/child/family $125/75/390)

This highly recommended three-hour tour of the island’s awesome southeast coastline takes in rookeries, seal colonies, bays, caves and towering sea cliffs. Trips depart Adventure Bay jetty at 11am daily, with an extra 2pm cruise in summer. You can also take the tour as a full-day trip from Hobart (adult/child $195/140, including lunch) or from Kettering (adult/child $140/90).

Bruny Island TravellerTOUR

(Pennicott Wilderness Journeys; icon-phonegif%03-6234 4270; www.brunyislandtraveller.com.au; adult/child $195/170)

Operated by the same folks who run Bruny Island Cruises, this is a full-day tour ex-Hobart for landlubbers who don't fancy the idea of too much time in a boat. The itinerary includes beaches, wildlife, Bruny Island Cheese Co, Cape Bruny Lighthouse and lunch at Bruny Island Premium Wines. Prices include transfers, ferry crossings, lunch and national park fees.

Bruny Island SafarisTOUR

(icon-phonegif%0437 499 795; www.brunyislandsafaris.com.au; per person $149)

Full-day tours departing Hobart, focusing on Bruny's history and landscapes. Look forward to opportunities to sample the island's culinary bounty, including oysters, salmon, cheese, wine and berries, and a look inside the old Cape Bruny Lighthouse.

4Sleeping

The Bruny d’Entrecasteaux Visitor Information Centre (icon-phonegif%03-6267 4494; www.brunyisland.org.au; 81 Ferry Rd, Kettering; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm) in Kettering is a good starting point for accommodation bookings. Online, see www. brunyisland.net.au and www.brunyisland.com.

Captain Cook Caravan ParkCARAVAN PARK

(icon-phonegif%03-6293 1128; www.captaincookpark.com; 786 Main Rd, Adventure Bay; unpowered/powered sites $25/30, on-site vans/cabins d $70/140; icon-acongifa)

Across the road from the beach in Adventure Bay, this park could do with a few trees but has decent facilities, including some swish new one-bedroom cabins with little decks out the front. The new owners are tidying things up.

icon-top-choiceo43 DegreesAPARTMENT

(icon-phonegif%03-6293 1018; www.43degrees.com.au; 948 Adventure Bay Rd, Adventure Bay; d/apt $190/240, extra person $40)icon-sustainableS

At 43 degrees south latitude, the accommodation here neatly bookends Adventure Bay beach: there are three nifty, roll-roofed studios (sleeping two) at the western end; and two similarly styled apartments (sleeping four) at the eastern end near the jetty. Double-glazing keeps the heat out/in, depending on the season. Ask about package deals with Bruny Island Cruises.

Morella Island RetreatsRENTAL HOUSE

(icon-phonegif%03-6293 1131; www.morella-island.com; 46 Adventure Bay Rd, Adventure Bay; d $180-250, extra person $25)

These unique, arty cottages are 6km north of Adventure Bay. There are a couple of retreats for couples (we love 'the Cockpit') and a family-sized holiday house. All are self-contained, with design and decor best described as ‘classic castaway’. Prices drop by $30 for stays longer than one night. The Hothouse Cafe (icon-phonegif%03-6293 1131; www.morella-island.com/hothouse.htm; 46 Adventure Bay Rd, Adventure Bay; mains $11-18; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm; icon-veggifv) is here, too.

Satellite IslandRENTAL HOUSE

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0400 336 444; www.satelliteisland.com.au; Satellite Island, via Alonnah or Middleton; d/extra person from $950/450)

An island, off an island, off an island... Adrift in the D'Entrecasteaux Channel, this amazing private-island lodge (boatshed-chic) offers self-contained accommodation for up to 15 castaways. Kayaks and fishing rods for distraction; walking trails and oyster-clad rocks for exploring. Private-boat access from Alonnah on Bruny Island or Middleton on the Tasmanian 'mainland'. Two-night minimum (though you'll want to stay longer).

All Angels Church HouseRENTAL HOUSE

(icon-phonegif%03-6293 1271; www.brunyisland.com/accommodation; 4561 Main Rd, Lunawanna; d from $235 )

Your prayers have been answered with this restored 1912 church near Daniels Bay, now rental accommodation with three bedrooms and a soaring-ceiling open-plan lounge. Fire up the BBQ in the sheltered garden, eat alfresco on the picnic table or dine inside at the huge shared table. Sleeps five.

5Eating

Penguin CafeCAFE

(icon-phonegif%03-6293 1352; 710 Main Rd, Adventure Bay; mains $5-12; icon-hoursgifh9am-3pm, extended summer hours)

Next to the Adventure Bay store, the eccentric little Penguin Cafe serves up simple homemade burgers, fish and chips, egg-and-bacon rolls, amazing curried scallop pies and muffins baked inside coffee cups.

Jetty CafeCAFE

(icon-phonegif%03-6260 6245; www.jettycafebrunyisland.com; 18 Main Rd, Dennes Point; lunch $15-20, dinner $28-30; icon-hoursgifh10am-9pm Thu-Sun)

Part cafe-restaurant, part providore, part local art gallery – the stylish Jetty Cafe (designed by ace architect John Wardle) is a great addition to Bruny’s dining scene. Duck in for a coffee, or book for lunch or Friday-night fish and chips – seasonal menus showcase local produce. Phone ahead as opening hours tend to sway in the sea breeze.

BRUNY ISLAND ON A PLATE

Bruny Island has a growing rep for top-quality food and wine. Here’s a rundown of the best Bruny foodie experiences to get you started.

Get Shucked Oyster FarmSEAFOOD

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0428 606 250; www.getshucked.com.au; 1735 Main Rd, Great Bay; 12 oysters from $12; icon-hoursgifh9.30am-6.30pm, reduced winter hours)

Get Shucked cultivates the ‘fuel for love’ in chilly Great Bay. Visit the tasting room and wolf down a briny dozen with lemon juice and Tabasco and a cold flute of Jansz bubbles. Shucking brilliant.

Bruny Island Smokehouse & Whisky BarMODERN AUSTRALIAN, BAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-6260 6344; 360 Lennon Rd, North Bruny; mains from $30; icon-hoursgifh9.30am-5.30pm Sep-May, to 4.30pm Jun-Aug)

The old Bruny Island Smokehouse has expanded its repertoire and is now a tasting room for every whisky distillery in the state. Gourmet platters, smoked meats and seafood chowder are also on offer. Don’t blame us if you miss the last ferry back to Kettering…

Bruny Island Cheese CoCAFE

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-6260 6353; www.brunyislandcheese.com.au; 1087 Main Rd, Great Bay; meals $10-24; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm)

Hankering for a quivering sliver of cheese? Head to the Bruny Island Cheese Co, where Kiwi cheesemaker Nick Haddow draws inspiration from time spent working and travelling in France, Spain, Italy and the UK. Artisan bread, wood-fired pizzas, zippy coffee and local wines also available.

Bruny Island Premium WinesWINERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-6293 1008, 0409 973 033; www.brunyislandwine.com; 4391 Main Rd, Lunawanna; icon-hoursgifh11am-4pm)

If you’re working up a thirst, swing into the cellar door at Australia’s most southerly vineyard. Pinot noir and chardonnay rule the roost; burgers, platters and meaty mains also available.

8Information

Bruny d'Entrecasteaux Visitor Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

(icon-phonegif%03-6267 4494; www.brunyisland.org.au; 81 Ferry Rd; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm)

The local visitor centre is at the ferry terminal – it's the best place for info on accommodation and services on Bruny Island, including walking maps and driving advice. There's a cafe here, too.

8Getting There & Away

Bruny Island FerryFERRY

(icon-phonegif%03-6273 6725; www.brunyislandferry.com.au; Ferry Rd, Kettering; car return $30-35, motorcycle/bike/foot passenger $5/5/free)

The double-decker Mirambeena shuttles cars and passengers from Kettering to Roberts Point on North Bruny. There are at least 10 services daily each way (a 20-minute trip). The first ferry leaves Kettering at 6.35am (7.45am Sunday); the last one leaves at 6.30pm (7.30pm Friday). The first ferry from Bruny sails at 7am (8.25am Sunday); the last one leaves at 7pm (7.50pm Friday).

Cygnet

Pop 1460

Groovy Cygnet was originally named Port de Cygne Noir (Port of the Black Swan) by Bruni d’Entrecasteaux, after the big noir birds that cruise around the bay. Youthfully reincarnated as Cygnet (a baby swan), the town has evolved into a dreadlocked, artsy enclave, while still functioning as a major fruit-producing centre. Weathered farmers and banjo-carrying hippies chat amiably in the main street and prop up the bars of the town’s pubs.

The ever-popular Cygnet Folk Festival (www.cygnetfolkfestival.org; tickets per day/weekend from $70/130) is three days of words, music and dance in January.

4Sleeping & Eating

Commercial HotelPUB

(icon-phonegif%03-6295 1296; 2 Mary St; s/d without bathroom $65/85; icon-wifigifW)

Upstairs at the rambling 1884 Commercial Hotel (aka 'the bottom pub') are decent pub rooms, recently dolled up and with little TVs, fridges and new beds. Downstairs, a laconic crew of locals drink at the bar and hit the bistro for robust steak dinners (mains $10 to $28, serving noon to 2pm and 6pm to 8pm).

icon-top-choiceoCherryviewCOTTAGE

(icon-phonegif%03-6295 0569; www.cherryview.com.au; 90 Supplices Rd; d $130-160)

Backed by a tall stand of eucalypts on 10 quiet hectares, this self-contained studio is a beauty. It's a simple, stylish affair, overlooking a valley with the Hartz Mountains beyond. Love the antique-door bedhead! Your GPS might freak out: is it Supplice Rd or Supplices Rd? Either way, it's 4km north of Cygnet's bright lights.

icon-top-choiceoLotus Eaters CafeCAFE

(icon-phonegif%03-6295 1996; www.thelotuseaterscafe.com.au; 10 Mary St; mains $10-25; icon-hoursgifh9am-4pm Thu-Mon; icon-veggifv)

This mighty-fine hippie cafe has rustic decor that belies real culinary savvy: expect terrific eggy breakfasts, curries and soups, with a rigorous focus on the seasonal, the organic, the free-range and the local. Superlative homemade cakes, almond croissants and coffee.

Huonville & Around

Pop 2540

The biggest town in the southeast, agrarian Huonville flanks the Huon River 35km south of Hobart. Having made its name as Tasmania’s apple-growing powerhouse, it remains a functional, working town – low on charm but with all the services you need. Just down the road, pretty riverside Franklin (population 1110) has some good eateries.

1Sights & Activities

Apple ShedMUSEUM

(icon-phonegif%03-6266 4345; www.williesmiths.com.au; 2064 Main Rd, Grove; gold coin donation; icon-hoursgifh10am-6pm)

At Grove, 6km north of Huonville, this revamped cafe/providore/museum is home to Willie Smith's Organic Apple Cider, at the fore of the cider wave that's been sweeping Australia's pubs and bars of late. Swing by for a coffee, a cheese plate, meals (mains $7 to $24), a cider tasting paddle ($12), or a more purposeful 1.89L 'growler' of Willie Smith's Bone Dry. The museum zooms in on Huonville's appley heritage, with old cider presses and an amazing wall of different apple varieties.

Wooden Boat CentreMUSEUM

(icon-phonegif%03-6266 3586; www.woodenboatcentre.com; 3341 Huon Hwy, Franklin; adult/child/family $9/3/20; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm)

This engaging, sea-centric spot incorporates the School of Wooden Boatbuilding, a unique institution running accredited courses (from one to seven weeks) in traditional boat building, using Tasmanian timbers. Stick your head in the door to learn all about it, watch boats being cobbled together and catch a whiff of Huon pine.

Huon JetBOATING

(icon-phonegif%03-6264 1838; www.huonjet.com; Esplanade, Huonville; adult/child $80/58; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Oct-Apr, 10am-4pm May-Sep)

Jet boating? That's so '80s… Still, these frenetic, 35-minute rides are a great way to see the river up close. Bookings recommended.

4Sleeping & Eating

Huon Valley Caravan ParkCARAVAN PARK

(icon-phonegif%0438 304 383; www.huonvalleycaravanpark.com.au; 177 Wilmot Rd, Huonville; unpowered/powered sites $30/34)

At the junction of the Huon and Mountain Rivers is this grassy patch, filling a budget-shaped gap in the local accommodation market. There are no cabins here (yet), but there's a brand-new camp kitchen with a pizza oven and tidy amenities.

icon-top-choiceoHuon Bush RetreatsCABIN

(icon-phonegif%03-6264 2233; www.huonbushretreats.com; 300 Browns Rd, Ranelagh; unpowered sites $30, tepees/cabins d $145/295)icon-sustainableS

This private, wildlife-friendly retreat dapples the flanks of not-miserable Mt Misery. On-site are five modern, self-contained cabins, luxury tepees, tent and campervan sites, plus 5km of walking tracks and a fantastic BBQ camp kitchen. Superb blue wrens flit through the branches. Check the website for directions – it’s 12km from Huonville (beware: steep dirt road!).

icon-top-choiceoSummer Kitchen BakeryBAKERY, CAFE

(icon-phonegif%03-6264 3388; 1 Marguerite St, Ranelagh; items $4-7; icon-hoursgifh7.30am-4pm Tue-Fri, 8am-4pm Sat)

Locals come from miles around just for a loaf of bread from this excellent little bakery, on a street corner in Ranelagh a few kilometres out of Huonville. Organic wood-fired sourdough, sprouted-rye sourdough, organic beef-and-wallaby pies, pastries and the best coffee in the Huon. Nice one.

Petty SessionsCAFE

(icon-phonegif%03-6266 3488; www.pettysessions.com.au; 3445 Huon Hwy, Franklin; mains $19-32; icon-hoursgifh9am-4pm & 5.30-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-8pm Sat & Sun)

A picket fence and garden blooms encircle this likeable cafe, inside an 1860 courthouse. Head for the deck and order classic cafe fare (salads, BLTs, grilled Huon River salmon and seafood fettuccine) – or try the house special: abalone chowder.

8Information

Huon Valley Visitor Information CentreTOURST INFORMATION

(icon-phonegif%03-6264 0326; www.huontrail.org.au; 2273 Huon Hwy, Huonville; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm)

Southeast tourist information on the way into town from Hobart.

Geeveston & Around

Pop 1430

A rugged timber town, Geeveston is 31km south of Huonville. It’s a utiltarian sort of place without much of a tourist angle, but offers accommodation close to the Hartz Mountains and Tahune Forest AirWalk.

2Activities

Tahune Forest AirWalkWALKING

(icon-phonegif%1300 720 507; www.adventureforests.com.au; Tahune Forest Reserve, Arve Rd; adult/child/family $26/13/52; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Oct-Mar, 10am-4pm Apr-Sep)

Tahune Forest has 600m of wheelchair-accessible steel walkways suspended 20m above the forest floor. One 24m cantilevered section is designed to sway disconcertingly with approaching footsteps. Vertigo? Ground-level walks include a 20-minute riverside stroll through stands of young Huon pine. There's also a cafe (mains $10 to $30) and lodge accommodation (dorm/double/family $47/95/115).

Eagle Hang GliderADVENTURE TOUR

(icon-phonegif%1300 720 507; www.tahuneairwalk.com.au; Tahune Forest Reserve, Arve Rd; adult/child $15/13.50; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Nov-Mar, 10am-4pm Sep-Apr)

Near the AirWalk, wannabe birds of prey are strapped into a hang-glider, which in turn is latched to a 250m-long cable 50m above the Huon River and forest. Fly my pretties! Minimum/maximum weight 25/100kg.

4Sleeping & Eating

Cambridge HouseB&B

(icon-phonegif%03-6297 1561; www.cambridgehouse.com.au; 2 School Rd; d with/without bathroom incl breakfast $140/115)

This photogenic 1870s B&B – cottagey but not kitsch – offers three bedrooms upstairs with shared facilities (good for families), and two downstairs en suite rooms. The timber staircase and Baltic pine ceilings are wonders. If you're quiet you might spy a platypus in the creek at the bottom of the garden. Cooked breakfast.

Masaaki's SushiJAPANESE

(icon-phonegif%0408 712 340; 20b Church St; sushi $8-20; icon-hoursgifh11.30am-6.30pm Fri &Sat)

What a surprise! Tasmania's best sushi – including fresh Tasmanian wasabi – is in sleepy Geeveston. Opening hours are disappointingly limited, but you'll also find Masaaki and his outstanding sushi at Hobart's Sunday morning Farm Gate Market.

Hartz Mountains National Park

The 65-sq-km Hartz Mountains National Park (icon-phonegif%03-6264 8460; www.parks.tas.gov.au; vehicle/person per day $24/12) is renowned for its jagged peaks, glacial tarns, gorges and bleak alpine moorlands, hunkering down in the cold, misty airs. Rapid weather changes bluster through: even day walkers should bring waterproofs and warm clothing.

There are some great hikes and isolated, sit-and-ponder-your-existence viewpoints in the park. Waratah Lookout, 24km from Geeveston, is an easy five-minute shuffle from the road. Other well-surfaced short walks include Arve Falls (20 minutes return) and Lake Osborne (40 minutes return). The steeper Lake Esperance walk (1½ hours return) takes you through sublime high country.

There’s no camping within the park – just basic day facilities. See the website for details. Access is via the Arve Rd from Geeveston: the last 10.5km is unsealed and sometimes snowed under.

Dover & Around

Pop 770

Dover is a chilled-out base for exploring the deep south. In the 19th century Dover was a timber-milling town, but nowadays fish farms harvest Atlantic salmon for export throughout Asia. Travellers heading south can stock up on fuel and supplies here. About 28km further south is Southport (population 280), another low-key former timber town on the coast.

Online see www.farsouthtasmania.com.

4Sleeping & Eating

Dover Beachside Tourist ParkCARVAN PARK

(icon-phonegif%03-6298 1301; www.dovercaravanpark.com.au; 27 Kent Beach Rd; unpowered/powered sites $22.50/35, cabins from $95; icon-wifigifW)

Opposite the sandy shore and new kids' playground, this decent southern set-up features grassy expanses, trim cabins and a chatty cockatoo in reception (don't take any of his lip).

icon-top-choiceoJetty HouseB&B

(icon-phonegif%03-6298 3139; www.southportjettyhouse.com; 8848 Huon Hwy; s/d incl breakfast $120/170, extra person $30; icon-wifigifW)

Perfect for your post–South Coast Track recovery, this family-run guesthouse near the wharf is a rustic, verandah-encircled homestead built in 1875 for the sawmill boss. Rates include full cooked breakfast and afternoon tea. Open fires, intersting art, a total absence of doilies and the friendly feline attentions of Pushkin complete the package. Dinner by arrangement; cheaper rates for longer stays.

Ashdowns of DoverB&B

(icon-phonegif%0417 746 437; www.ashdownsofdover.com.au; 6957 Huon Hwy; d $140, extra person $25; icon-wifigifW)

Forget about the white cliffs; Ashdowns of Dover is a far more welcoming prospect. Three cosy en suite rooms in this 1950 timber house come with Asian and African thematic touches, full cooked breakfasts and a field full of sheep to observe out the back. The kids can collect eggs from the resident chooks.

icon-top-choiceoPost>Office 6985SEAFOOD, PIZZA

(icon-phonegif%03-6298 1905; 6985 Huon Hwy; mains $15-30; icon-hoursgifhnoon-2.30pm Wed-Sun & 6-8pm Thu-Sun Sep-May, 4-8pm Thu-Sat Jun-Aug)

Leonard Cohen and alt-country on the stereo, cool decor, foodie magazines… And that's before you get to the menu, which features local seafood and wood-fired pizzas (try the scallop, caramelised onion and pancetta version). An evening here will probably have you asking your accommodation if you can stay an extra night. Sterling beer and wine list, too.

DON'T MISS

HASTINGS CAVES & THERMAL SPRINGS

Signposted 5km inland from the Huon Hwy, about 15km south of Dover (just past the Southport turn-off), is the entrance to the amazing Hastings Caves and Thermal Springs (icon-phonegif%03-6298 3209; www.parks.tas.gov.au/reserves/hastings; 754 Hastings Caves Rd, Hastings ; caves & pool adult/child/family $21/15/60, pool only $5/2/12; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Jan, 10am-4pm Feb-Apr, 10.30am-3.30pm May-Sep, 10am-3.30pm Oct-Dec). The only way to explore the caves (which are within the Hastings Caves State Reserve) is on a guided tour. Buy tickets at the visitor centre. Tours leave roughly hourly, but times vary through the year: call or check the website for specifics.

Admission includes a 45-minute tour of the amazing dolomite Newdegate Cave, plus entry to the thermal swimming pool behind the visitor centre, filled with 28°C water from thermal springs.

From the visitor centre the cave entrance is a further 5km drive. No public transport runs out this way.

Cockle Creek

Australia's most southerly drive is a 19km corrugated-gravel stretch from Ida Bay – don't miss the super-scenic 14km Ida Bay Railway (icon-phonegif%0428 383 262, 03-6298 3110; www.idabayrailway.com.au; 328 Lune River Rd; adult/child/family $30/15/75; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm) en route – past the soft-lulling waves of Recherche Bay to Cockle Creek. A grand grid of streets was once planned for Cockle Creek, but dwindling coal seams and whale numbers poured cold water on that idea.

This is epic country, studded with craggy, clouded mountains, sigh-inducing beaches and (best of all) hardly any people. The challenging South Coast Track starts (or ends) here, taking you through to Melaleuca in the Southwest National Park (www.parks.tas.gov.au; vehicle/person per day $24/12). Combined with the Port Davey Track you can walk all the way to Lake Pedder. Shorter walks from Cockle Creek include ambles along the shoreline to the lighthouse at Fishers Point (two hours return), and a section of the South Coast Track to South Cape Bay (four hours return). National park entry fees apply; self-register at Cockle Creek.

There are some brilliant free, very basic campgrounds along Recherche Bay, including at Gilhams Beach, just before Catamaran. You can also camp for free at Cockle Creek itself, but national park fees apply as soon as you cross the bridge.

Contact Evans Coaches (icon-phonegif%03-6297 1335; www.evanscoaches.com.au) to see if it's running the Geeveston–Cockle Creek route when you want it to be. Otherwise, BYO wheels.

Tasman Peninsula

The amazing, austere Port Arthur Historic Site is the Tasman Peninsula's centre of activity, but the area also offers 300m-high sea cliffs, empty surf beaches and brilliant bushwalks through thickly wooded forests and along isolated coastlines. Much of the area constitutes Tasman National Park (www.parks.tas.gov.au).

Online, see www.tasmanregion.com.au and www.portarthur.org.au.

35-tasman-peninsula-aus18

TTours

Tasman Island CruisesBOAT TOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-6234 4270; www.tasmancruises.com.au; Franklin Wharf; full-day tour adult/child $225/155; icon-hoursgifh7.45am)

Take a bus to Port Arthur for a three-hour eco-cruise around Tasman Island – checking out the astonishing sea cliffs at Cape Pillar, the highest in the southern hemisphere – then exploring the Port Arthur Historic Site and bussing it back to town. Includes morning tea, lunch and Port Arthur admission.

Roaring 40s KayakingKAYAKING

(icon-phonegif%0455 949 777; www.roaring40skayaking.com.au; day tour $200; icon-hoursgifhNov-Apr)

Roaring 40s conducts epic sea-kayaking day tours around the Tasman Peninsula, paddling past the monumental coastline of Cape Hauy. Prices include equipment, lunch and transfers from Hobart.

Under Down UnderTOUR

(icon-phonegif%1800 444 442; www.underdownunder.com.au; per person $110)

Guided backpacker-style day trips to Port Arthur, including accommodation pick-up, admission fees, a guided walk and a harbour cruise. There's also a quick look at Richmond en route.

Tours TasmaniaTOUR

(icon-phonegif%1800 777 103; www.tourstas.com.au; full-day tour $120; icon-hoursgifhSun-Fri)

Good-value, small-group day tours to Port Arthur (including admission fees, walking tour and harbour cruise) via Richmond, Devil's Kitchen and Tasman Arch. Backpacker focused.

NavigatorsCRUISE

(icon-phonegif%03-6223 1914; www.navigators.net.au; Brooke St Pier, Hobart; full-day tour adult/child $229/204; icon-hoursgifhOct-Apr)

Cruises from Hobart to Port Arthur, returning on a coach. Includes entrance to the historic site, morning tea, lunch, a walking tour and a tour of the Isle of the Dead. Omit the meals and the Isle of the Dead and the price drops (adult/child $159/128).

Gray LineBUS TOUR

(icon-phonegif%1300 858 687; www.grayline.com.au; full-day tour adult/child $139/70)

Cushy coach tours ex-Hobart, including a harbour cruise around the Isle of the Dead, Port Arthur admission and guided tour, and pit stops at Tasman Arch and the Devil’s Kitchen.

8Getting There & Around

Tassielink (icon-phonegif%1300 300 520; www.tassielink.com.au) Services the Tasman Peninsula from Hobart, stopping at Eaglehawk Neck ($21, 1½ hours) and Port Arthur ($25, 2¼ hours).

TIGERS & DEVILS

There are two endings to the story of the Tasmanian tiger (Thylacinus cynocephalus, or thylacine) – a striped, nocturnal, dog-like predator once widespread in Tasmania and mainland Australia. Conventional wisdom says it was hunted to extinction in the early 20th century, with the last-known specimen dying in Hobart Zoo in 1936. Despite hundreds of alleged sightings since, no specimen, living or dead, has been confirmed. The second version of the story is that shy, elusive tigers still exist in the Tasmania wilderness. Scientists scoff at such suggestions, but Tasmanian folklore seems reluctant to let go of this tantalising possibility. David Owen's Thylacine and Col Bailey's Shadow of the Thylacine examine this phenomenon, while in the 2011 film The Hunter, grumpy Willem Dafoe stars as a man searching for Tasmania's last thylacine.

The rambunctious Tasmanian devil (Sarcophilus harrisii) is definitely still alive, but devil facial tumour disease (DFTD, a communicable cancer) infects up to 75% of the wild population (the real beast looks nothing like the Warner Bros cartoon). Quarantined populations have been established around the state, but efforts to find a cure have been depressingly fruitless. In the meantime you can check them out at wildlife parks around the state and get up-to-date information on ongoing efforts to control the impact of DFTD.

Eaglehawk Neck to Port Arthur

The historical importance of Eaglehawk Neck (population 340) harks back to convict days, when the 100m-wide isthmus here had a row of ornery dogs – the infamous Dogline – chained across it to prevent escape. To discourage swimming, rumours were circulated that the waters were shark infested. Remarkably, despite these efforts, several convicts made successful bids for freedom.

On the way to Eaglehawk Neck, at Sorell, stop by the pick-your-own Sorrell Fruit Farm (icon-phonegif%03-6265 2744; www.sorellfruitfarm.com; 174 Pawleena Rd; containers from $8.50; icon-hoursgifh8.30am-5pm Oct-May) to see what's in season.

1Sights & Activities

Eaglehawk Neck Historic SiteHISTORIC SITE, MUSEUM

(icon-phonegif%03-6214 8100; www.parks.tas.gov.au; Arthur Hwy; icon-hoursgifh24hr, museum 9am-3.30pm)icon-freeF

Down on the isthmus, the only remaining structure from the convict days is the Officers Quarters Museum (1832) – the oldest wooden military building in Australia. Inside is a series of rooms loaded with historical info, covering the Dogline, escapee prisoners and the erudite bushranger Martin Cash.

Blowhole, Tasman Arch & Devil’s KitchenLANDMARK

(off Blowhole Rd)

For a close-up look at the spectacular coastline south of the Neck, follow the signs to the Blowhole, Tasman Arch (a cavern-like natural bridge) and Devil’s Kitchen (a rugged 60m-deep cleft). Watch out for sporadic bursts at the Blowhole, and keep behind the fences at the other sites – the cliff edges do decay. On the road to the Blowhole, look for the signposted 4km gravel road leading to Waterfall Bay, which has further camera-conducive views.

Tasmanian Devil Conservation ParkWILDLIFE RESERVE

(icon-phonegif%1800 641 641; www.tasmaniandevilpark.com; 5990 Arthur Hwy; adult/child/family $33/18/79; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm)

Taranna’s main attraction is this wildlife reserve, in the process of rebranding itself as the Tasmanian Devil Unzoo when we visited. The native habitat here is rampant with wildlife – native hens, wallabies, quolls, eagles, wattlebirds, pademelons and, of course, Tasmanian devils, which you can see being fed every hour. Walking trails extend to 2.5km. See the website for updates.

Tasman Coastal TrailWALKING

(www.parks.tas.gov.au/recreation/tracknotes/tasman.html; off Blowhole Rd)

Waterfall Bay is the gateway to this trail that heads into Tasman National Park. The track climbs over Tatnells Hill (two hours) then follows the coast to Bivouac Bay (six hours) and Fortescue Bay (eight hours), then extends out to Cape Hauy and on to Cape Pillar. Allow five to six days for the full return trip.

At the time of writing, parts of the track were being upgraded to form the epic new Three Capes Track, encompassing Cape Raoul, Cape Pillar and Cape Hauy. Check the website for updates.

Eaglehawk Dive CentreDIVING

(icon-phonegif%03-6250 3566; www.eaglehawkdive.com.au; 178 Pirates Bay Dr)

Runs underwater explorations (sea caves, giant kelp forests, a sea-lion colony and shipwrecks) and a range of PADI courses. A one-day introduction to diving costs $310 (no experience necessary). Two boat dives per person with/without gear is $200/115. It also provides Hobart pick-ups and basic accommodation for divers (dorm/double $25/80).

4Sleeping

Taranna CottagesCABIN

(icon-phonegif%03-6250 3436; www.tarannacottages.com.au; 19 Nubeena Rd; unpowered sites $20, d $95-125, extra adult/child $24/12)

This value-for-money enterprise at the southern end of Taranna features self-contained accommodation in two neat-as-a-pin apple-pickers' cottages relocated from the Huon Valley, and a railway building from the Midlands. It's a quiet bush setting, with open fires and breakfast provisions (free-range eggs, homemade jams) for a few dollars extra. A pioneer museum/cafe was set to open just after we visited.

icon-top-choiceoLarus Waterfront CottageRENTAL HOUSE

(icon-phonegif%0457 758 711; www.larus.com.au; 576 White Beach Rd, White Beach; d $145-200)

Contemporary design, a marine colour scheme, audacious views and all mod cons (big-screen TV, gas cooking, flash barbecue) equate to a great Tasman Peninsula bolt-hole. It’s in a quiet spot with just a narrow strip of scrub between you and the sea. You’ll be spending a lot of time sitting, sipping and admiring the sunset from the wraparound deck. Sleeps four.

Norfolk Bay Convict StationB&B

(icon-phonegif%03-6250 3487; www.convictstation.com; 5862 Arthur Hwy; d incl breakfast $160-180; icon-wifigifW)

Once the convict railway’s port terminus (as well as the first pub on the Tasman Peninsula and the local post office), this gorgeous old place (1838) is now an endearing B&B. Eclectic rooms come with homemade buffet breakfasts (cooked $10 extra), complimentary port, and fishing gear and a dinghy for hire. The owners are a mine of knowledge on local history.

Port Arthur

Pop 250

In 1830 Lieutenant-Governor George Arthur chose the Tasman Peninsula to confine prisoners who had committed further crimes in the colony. A 'natural penitentiary', the peninsula is connected to the mainland by a strip of land less than 100m wide – Eaglehawk Neck.

From 1830 to 1877, 12,500 convicts did hard, brutal prison time here. Port Arthur became the hub of a network of penal stations on the peninsula, its fine buildings sustaining thriving convict-labour industries, including timber milling, shipbuilding, coal mining, shoemaking and brick and nail production.

Despite its redemption as a major tourist site, Port Arthur is a sombre place. Don’t come here expecting to remain unaffected by what you see. There’s a sadness that’s undeniable, and a Gothic pall of woe that can cloud your senses on the sunniest of days. Compounding this, in April 1996 a young gunman fired bullets indiscriminately at the community, murdering 35 people and injuring 37 more. After burning down a guesthouse, he was finally captured and remains imprisoned north of Hobart. The incident precipitated Australia's strict gun-control laws.

1Sights & Activities

Port Arthur Historic SiteHISTORIC SITE

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-6251 2310; www.portarthur.org.au; Arthur Hwy; adult/child/family from $37/17/90; icon-hoursgifhtours & buildings 9am-5pm, grounds 9am-dusk)

This amazing World Heritage convict site is one of Tasmania’s big-ticket tourist attractions. There are dozens of structures here, best interpreted via a guided tour. The museum ( GOOGLE MAP ) was originally an asylum, and the Separate Prison ( GOOGLE MAP ) was built to punish prisoners through isolation and sensory deprivation. The 1836 church ( GOOGLE MAP ) burned down in 1884, and the penitentiary ( GOOGLE MAP ) was originally a granary. The shell of the Broad Arrow Café, scene of many of the 1996 shootings, has been preserved with a memorial garden ( GOOGLE MAP ) around it.

Inside the main visitor centre is a cafe, Felons Bistro and a gift shop (which stocks some interesting convict-focused publications). Downstairs is an interpretative gallery where you can follow the convicts’ journey from England to Tasmania. Buggy transport around the site can be arranged for people with restricted mobility – ask at the information counter. The ferry plying the harbour is also wheelchair accessible.

4Sleeping

Port Arthur Holiday ParkCARAVAN PARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1800 620 708, 03-6250 2340; www.portarthurhp.com.au; Garden Point Rd; dm $25, unpowered/powered/en-suite sites $28/33/43; cabins from $120; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

Spacious and with plenty of greenery and sing-song bird life, this park is 2km before Port Arthur, not far from a sheltered beach. Facilities are abundant, including a camp kitchen, wood BBQs, petrol pump and shop. The best (and only) budget option around these latitudes.

Sea Change Safety CoveB&B

(icon-phonegif%03-6250 2719, 0438 502 719; www.safetycove.com; 425 Safety Cove Rd, Safety Cove; d $180-240, extra adult/child $40/20; icon-wifigifW)

Whichever way you look from this guesthouse, 4km south of Port Arthur, there are fantastic views – misty cliffs, sea-wracked Safety Cove Beach or scrubby bushland. There are a couple of B&B rooms inside the house plus a self-contained unit downstairs that sleeps five. Outside, camellia-filled gardens roll down to a beaut deck overlooking the beach (G&Ts anyone?).

Stewarts Bay LodgeRESORT

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-6250 2888; www.stewartsbaylodge.com.au; 6955 Arthur Hwy; cabins/units d from $159/219, 2-bedroom $260/319, 3-bedroom cabin $360; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

Arrayed around a gorgeous hidden cove – seemingly made for swimming and kayaking – Stewarts Bay Lodge combines older, rustic log cabins with newer deluxe units, some with private spa baths. Modern kitchens are great for making the most of good local produce, but you’ll probably spend more time in the sleek Gabriel’s on the Bay restaurant.

WORTH A TRIP

REMARKABLE CAVE

About 5km south of Port Arthur is Remarkable Cave, a long tunnel eroded from the base of a collapsed gully, under a cliff and out to sea. Waves surge through the tunnel and fill the gully with sea spray. A boardwalk and stairs provide access to a metal viewing platform above the gully, a few minutes’ amble from the car park. Believe it or not, hardcore surfers brave the cave, paddling out through the opening to surf the offshore reefs beyond.

5Eating

Gabriel's on the BayMODERN AUSTRALIAN

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-6250 2771; www.stewartsbaylodge.com.au; Stewarts Bay Lodge, 6955 Arthur Hwy; mains lunch $18-35, dinner $28-35; icon-hoursgifh8-10am & noon-2pm daily, 5.30-8.30pm Thu-Mon ; icon-wifigifW)

Housed in a modern glass-and-wood pavilion with water views, Gabe’s showcases local produce with Eaglehawk Neck oysters, Tasman Peninsula salmon burgers and Tasmanian scotch fillet with sweet-potato mash, braised leeks and red wine jus. Definitely worth a detour if you’re overnighting anywhere nearby. Bookings recommended.

Felons BistroMODERN AUSTRALIAN

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1800 659 101; www.portarthur.org.au; Port Arthur Historic Site; mains $23-32; icon-hoursgifh5pm-late)

Swing into a wing of the visitor centre at the historic site and shackle dinner at Felons onto the nocturnal ghost tour. Upmarket, creative dinners with a seafood bias reinforce Felons’ catchy slogan, ‘dine with conviction’. Hungry carnivores should try Cape Grim braised beef cheek or the grilled Doo Town venison with Tasmanian ginseng. Reservations advised.

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