Lower North Shore

At the northern end of the Harbour Bridge are the unexpectedly tranquil waterside suburbs of Milsons Point and McMahons Point. Both command astonishing city views. Just east of the bridge is the stately suburb of Kirribilli, home to Admiralty House ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) and Kirribilli House ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), the Sydney residences of the governor general and prime minister respectively.

East of here are the upmarket residential suburbs of Neutral Bay, Cremorne and Mosman, known for their pretty coves, harbourside parks and ‘ladies who lunch’. An excellent coastal walk stretches from Cremorne Point, past Mosman Bay and into a section of Sydney Harbour National Park hugging Bradleys Head. A less built-up alternative is the track tracing the Middle Head section of the national park, from Chowder Bay to Balmoral.

Luna ParkAMUSEMENT PARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9922 6644; www.lunaparksydney.com; 1 Olympic Dr; icon-hoursgifh11am-10pm Fri & Sat, 2-6pm Sun, 11am-4pm Mon; icon-boatgiffMilsons Point)icon-freeF

A sinister chip-toothed clown face forms the entrance to this old-fashioned amusement park overlooking Sydney Harbour. It's one of several 1930s features, including the Coney Island funhouse, a pretty carousel and the nausea-inducing rotor. You can purchase a two-ride pass ($16), or buy a height-based unlimited-ride pass (from $30, cheaper if purchased online). Hours are extended during school and public holidays.

Mary MacKillop PlaceCHURCH, MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-8912 4878; www.marymackillopplace.org.au; 7 Mount St; adult/child $9/6; icon-hoursgifh10am-4pm; icon-traingifdNorth Sydney)

This museum tells the life story of St Mary of the Cross (aka Mary MacKillop), Australia’s only Catholic saint. Born in Melbourne in 1842, she was a dedicated and outspoken educator, and a pioneer who prevailed over conservative hierarchical ideals, despite being excommunicated for six months. You’ll find her tomb inside the chapel.

Taronga ZooZOO

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9969 2777; www.taronga.org.au; Bradleys Head Rd; adult/child $46/23; icon-hoursgifh9.30am-5pm; icon-boatgiffTaronga Zoo)icon-sustainableS

A 12-minute ferry ride from Circular Quay, Taronga Zoo has 75 hectares of bushy harbour hillside full of kangaroos, koalas and similarly hirsute Australians, and imported guests. The zoo’s 4000 critters have million-dollar harbour views, but seem blissfully unaware of the privilege.

Highlights include the nocturnal platypus habitat, the Great Southern Oceans section and the Asian elephant display. Feedings and encounters happen throughout the day, while in summer, twilight concerts jazz things up.

Tours include Nura Diya (www.taronga.org.au; 90min tour adult/child $99/69; icon-hoursgifh9.45am Mon, Wed & Fri), where Indigenous guides introduce you to native animals and share Dreaming stories about them, giving an insight into traditional Aboriginal life; advance bookings essential. Roar & Snore (icon-phonegif%02-9978 4791; www.taronga.org.au; adult/child $320/205) is an overnight family experience that includes a night-time safari, a buffet dinner, breakfast and tents under the stars.

Catching the ferry is part of the fun, and given that parking is expensive (per day $17), it's well worth considering. From the wharf, the Sky Safari cable car or a bus will whisk you to the main entrance, from which you can traverse the zoo downhill back to the ferry. A Zoo Pass (adult/child/family $53/27/148) from Circular Quay includes return ferry rides, the bus or cable-car ride to the top and zoo admission. Disabled access is good, even when arriving by ferry.

Balmoral BeachBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP ; The Esplanade; icon-busgifg245)

The beachy enclave of Balmoral faces off with Manly across Middle Harbour, and has some good restaurants and a beaut swimming beach. Split in two by an unfeasibly picturesque rocky outcrop, Balmoral attracts picnicking North Shore families. Swimmers migrate to the shark-netted southern end.

WORTH A TRIP

GO WILD IN THE SUBURBS

Lane Cove National ParkNATIONAL PARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au; Lady Game Dr; per car $7; icon-hoursgifh9am-6pm; icon-traingifdNorth Ryde)

This 601-hectare park, surrounded by North Shore suburbia, is a great place to stretch out on some middle-sized bushwalks. It’s home to dozens of critters, including some endangered owls and toads. If you visit in spring, the water dragons will be getting horny and the native orchids and lilies will be flowering.

There’s a boat shed on Lane Cove River that rents out rowboats and kayaks, but swimming isn’t a good idea. You can also cycle and camp, and some sections are wheelchair accessible.

Manly

Laid-back Manly clings to a narrow isthmus abutting North Head, Sydney Harbour’s northern gatepost. The suburb’s unusual name comes from Governor Phillip’s description of the physique of the native people he met here; his Excellency was clearly indulging in an early example of the very Sydney habit of body-scrutinising.

The Corso connects Manly’s ocean and harbour beaches; here surf shops, burger joints, juice bars and pubs are plentiful. The refurbished Manly Wharf has classier pubs and restaurants, and there are some good cafes scattered around the back streets.

In summer, allocate a day to walking and splashing about. In winter, it’s worth heading over for a quick look around, if only for Sydney’s best ferry journey. Don’t bother staying after dark – there are much better eateries and bars elsewhere.

13-manly-aus18

Manly

1Top Sights

4Sleeping

6Drinking & Nightlife

Manly Sea Life SanctuaryAQUARIUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1800 199 742; www.manlysealifesanctuary.com.au; West Esplanade; adult/child $25/15; icon-hoursgifh9.30am-5pm; icon-boatgiffManly)

This ain’t the place to come if you’re on your way to Manly Beach for a surf. Underwater glass tubes enable you to become alarmingly intimate with 3m grey nurse sharks. Reckon they’re not hungry? Shark Dive Xtreme (introductory/certified dives $280/205) enables you to enter their world.

Upstairs, the residents of the penguin enclosure have lawless amounts of fun. Manly has one of the last mainland colonies of little penguins in Australia, and this display aims to educate people about these cute-as-a-button critters (don't fret, none of these little guys were taken from the wild).

Manly Art Gallery & MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.manly.nsw.gov.au; West Esplanade; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm Tue-Sun; icon-boatgiffManly)icon-freeF

A short stroll from Manly Wharf, this passionately managed community gallery maintains a local focus, with exhibits of surfcraft, camp swimwear and beachy bits and pieces. There’s also a ceramics gallery, and lots of old Manly photos to peer at.

icon-top-choiceoManly BeachBEACH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-boatgiffManly)

Sydney's second most famous beach stretches for nearly two golden kilometres, lined by Norfolk Island pines and scrappy midrise apartment blocks. The southern end of the beach, nearest the Corso, is known as South Steyne, with North Steyne in the centre and Queenscliff at the northern end; each has its own surf lifesaving club.

Shelly BeachBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-boatgiffManly)

This sheltered north-facing ocean cove is just a short 1km walk from the busy Manly beach strip. The tranquil waters are a protected haven for marine life, so it offers wonderful snorkelling.

North HeadNATIONAL PARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; North Head Scenic Dr; icon-busgifg135)

About 3km south of Manly, spectacular, chunky North Head offers dramatic cliffs, lookouts and sweeping views of the ocean, the harbour and the city; hire a bike and go exploring.

North Head is believed to have been used as a ceremonial site by the native Camaraigal people. These days, most of the headland is part of Sydney Harbour National Park.

The 9km, four-hour Manly Scenic Walkway loops around the park; pick up a brochure from the visitor centre. Also here is the historic Quarantine Station.

Manly Scenic WalkwayOUTDOORS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.manly.nsw.gov.au; icon-boatgiffManly)

This epic walk has two major components: the 10km western stretch between Manly and Spit Bridge, and the 9.5km eastern loop around North Head. Either download a map or pick one up from the information centre near the wharf.

The western section traces the coast past million-dollar harbour-view properties and then through a rugged 2.5km section of Sydney Harbour National Park, which remains much as it was when the First Fleet sailed in. After crossing the Spit Bridge you can take a bus either back to Manly (bus 140, 143 or 144) or into the city (176 to 180).

The eastern loop is known as the North Head Circuit Track and takes between three and four hours. From the wharf, follow Eastern Esplanade and Stuart St to Spring Cove, head into the North Head section of Sydney Harbour National Park, and make your way through the bush to the spectacular Fairfax Lookout on North Head (approximately 45 minutes in total). From the lookout, walk the Fairfax Loop (1km, 30 minutes) and then head back via the Cabbage Tree Bay Walk, which follows the sea-sprayed shoreline back to Manly Beach via picturesque Shelly Beach and tiny Fairy Bower Beach.

Quarantine StationHISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9466 1551; www.quarantinestation.com.au; 1 North Head Scenic Dr; icon-hoursgifhmuseum 10am-4pm Sun-Thu, to 8pm Fri & Sat; icon-busgifg135)icon-freeF

From 1835 to 1983 this eerie-but-elegant complex was used to isolate new arrivals suspected of carrying disease, in an attempt to limit the spread of cholera, smallpox and bubonic plague. These days the 'Q Station' has been reborn as a tourist destination with a museum, accommodation, restaurants and a whole swathe of tour options.

Northern Beaches

The 20km-stretch of coast between Manly and Palm Beach has been called the most impressive urban surfing landscape in the world, and the sun-bronzed locals who swim and catch the waves at Freshwater, Curl Curl, Dee Why, Collaroy, Narrabeen, Mona Vale, Newport, Bilgola, Avalon, Whale and Palm Beaches are uniformly proud to agree. Each of these beaches has a markedly different atmosphere.

Driving is by far the best way to explore, but if that’s not an option and you still feel the need to make a Home & Away pilgrimage, bus L90 will get you from Railway Sq to Palm Beach in just under two hours.

Dee WhyBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP ; The Strand; icon-busgifg176)

A no-fuss family beach fronted by chunky apartments, some good cafes and ubiquitous surf shops. Grommets hit the waves and mums hit the rock pool.

NarrabeenBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP ; Ocean St; icon-busgifgL88, L90)

Immortalised by the Beach Boys in Surfin’ USA, Narrabeen is hard-core surf turf – get some experience before hitting the breaks. Not the best swimming, but there is a pool and a lagoon too.

BilgolaBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP ; Bilgola Ave; icon-busgifgL88, L90)

With its saltwater pool, Bilgola feels like a bit of a secret gem. Good swimming.

AvalonBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP ; Barrenjoey Rd; icon-busgifgL88, L90)

Caught in a sandy ’70s time warp, Avalon is the mythical Australian beach you always dreamt of but could never find. Challenging surf and tangerine sand.

Whale BeachBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP ; Whale Beach Rd; icon-busgifgL90)

Sleepy Whale Beach, 3km south of Palm Beach, is well worth seeking out – a paradisiacal slice of deep, orange sand flanked by steep cliffs; good for surfers and families.

Palm BeachBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP ; Ocean Rd; icon-busgifgL90)

Long, lovely Palm Beach is a meniscus of bliss, famous as the setting for cheesy TV soap Home & Away. The 1881 Barrenjoey Lighthouse ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-busgifgL90) punctuates the northern tip of the headland in an annexe of Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park. You’ll need some decent shoes for the steep 20-minute hike (no toilets!), but the views across Pittwater are worth the effort. On Sundays short tours run every half-hour from 11am to 3pm; no need to book ahead.

Ku-ring-gai Chase National ParkPARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9472 8949; www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au; Bobbin Head Rd, Mount Colah; per car per day $11, landing fee by boat adult/child $3/2)

This spectacular 14,928-hectare park, 24km from the city centre, forms Sydney’s northern boundary. It’s a classic mix of sandstone, bushland and water vistas, taking in over 100km of coastline along the southern edge of Broken Bay, where it heads into the Hawkesbury River.

Ku-ring-gai takes its name from its original inhabitants, the Guringai people, who were all but wiped out just after colonisation through violence at the hands of British settlers and introduced disease. It’s well worth reading Kate Grenville’s Booker-nominated The Secret River for an engrossing but harrowing telling of this story.

Remnants of Aboriginal life are visible today thanks to the preservation of more than 800 sites, including rock paintings, middens and cave art. To learn more, enter the park through the Mt Colah entrance and visit the Kalkari Discovery Centre (icon-phonegif%02-9472 9300; Ku-ring-gai Chase Rd; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm), which has displays and videos on Australian fauna and Aboriginal culture. There is a self-guided walk on which you can see swamp wallabies, bush turkeys, native ducks and goannas.

From the Resolute picnic area at West Head you can amble 100m to Red Hands Cave, where there are some very faint ochre handprints. About another 500m along Resolute Track (after a short steep section) is an Aboriginal engraving site. You can turn around and head back now, or continue to one more site and make a 3.5km loop that takes in Resolute Beach. The view from the West Head Lookout is truly spectacular – don’t miss it.

Less than 3km west of the picnic area along West Head Rd is the Basin Track, which offers an easy stroll to a good set of engravings. Approximately 2.5km further along the track is the Basin, a shallow round inlet where there is a camping area with barbecues, showers and toilets. Access is via the Basin Track or by ferry or water taxi from Palm Beach. For information about the park, stop at the Bobbin Head Information Centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9472 8949; Bobbin Head; icon-hoursgifh10am-4pm), operated by the NSW National Parks & Wildlife Service. Also here are a marina, picnic areas, a cafe and a boardwalk leading through mangroves.

Access to the park is by car or the Palm Beach Ferry that is run by Fantasea. This runs hourly from Palm Beach to Mackerel Beach, via the Basin. To get to Palm Beach from the CBD, catch bus L90 from Railway Sq or bus 156 or 169 from Manly Wharf.

If you are arriving by car, enter Ku-ring-gai Chase Rd off Pacific Hwy, Mt Colah; Bobbin Head Rd, North Turramurra; or McCarrs Creek Rd, Terrey Hills.

2Activities

Diving

Sydney's best shore dives are at Gordons Bay, north of Coogee; Shark Point, Clovelly; and Ship Rock, Cronulla. Other destinations include North Bondi, Camp Cove and Bare Island. Popular boat-dive sites are the grey nurse shark colony at Magic Point, off Maroubra; Wedding Cake Island off Coogee; Sydney Heads; and off Royal National Park.

Dive Centre BondiDIVING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9369 3855; www.divebondi.com.au; 198 Bondi Rd; icon-hoursgifh9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-6pm Sat & Sun; icon-busgifg380)

This Professional Association of Diving Instructors (PADI) centre offers learn-to-dive courses (three days $395), plus various boat and shore dives around Sydney.

Dive Centre ManlyDIVING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9977 4355; www.divesydney.com.au; 10 Belgrave St; icon-hoursgifh8.30am-6pm; icon-boatgiffManly)

Offers snorkel safaris ($50), two-day learn-to-dive PADI courses (from $445), guided shore dives (one/two dives $95/125) and boat dives (two dives $175).

Kayaking

Sydney Harbour KayaksKAYAKING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9960 4389; www.sydneyharbourkayaks.com.au; Smiths Boat Shed, 81 Parriwi Rd, Mosman; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-5pm Sat & Sun; icon-busgifg173-180)

Rents kayaks (from $20 per hour) and stand-up paddle boards (from $25), and leads four-hour ecotours ($99) from near the Spit Bridge.

Manly Kayak CentreKAYAKING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1300 529 257; www.manlykayakcentre.com.au; West Esplanade; 1/2/8hr from $25/40/70; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm; icon-boatgiffManly)

As long as you can swim, you can hire a kayak or paddle board from this stand near Manly Sea Life Sanctuary; with additional stands near Manly Wharf Hotel ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.manlywharfhotel.com.au; Manly Wharf; icon-hoursgifh11.30am-midnight; icon-boatgiffManly) and the Quarantine Station. You’ll be provided with a life jacket, paddling instruction and tips on secluded beaches to visit. Three-hour kayak tours cost $89.

Sailing

James CraigSAILING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9298 3888; www.shf.org.au; Wharf 7, Pyrmont; adult/child $150/50; icon-boatgiffPyrmont Bay)

The James Craig is a hulking three-masted iron barque built in England in 1874 that's normally moored outside the Maritime Museum. It sails out beyond the heads roughly twice-monthly (bookings essential). Trips include morning tea, lunch, afternoon tea and a sea shanty or three.

Champagne SailingSAILING

(icon-phonegif%02-9948 1578; www.champagnesailing.com.au; 4hr charters $1200)

If you've got champagne tastes or ever fancied recreating Duran Duran's Rio video, charter a 10m catamaran and muster your 20 best friends to split the bill.

Sailing SydneySAILING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1300 670 008; www.sailingsydney.net; King St Wharf 9; adult/child $129/99; icon-boatgiffDarling Harbour)

Learn the ropes on a 2½-hour cruise on an actual America's Cup yacht.

Surfing

On the South Shore, get tubed at Bondi, Tamarama, Coogee, Maroubra and Cronulla. The North Shore is home to a dozen surf beaches between Manly and Palm Beach, including Curl Curl, Dee Why, Narrabeen, Mona Vale and Newport.

icon-top-choiceoLet’s Go SurfingSURFING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9365 1800; www.letsgosurfing.com.au; 128 Ramsgate Ave; board & wetsuit hire 1hr/2hr/day/week $25/30/50/150; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm)

North Bondi is a great place to learn to surf, and this well-established surf school offers lessons catering to practically everyone. There are classes for grommets aged seven to 16 (1½ hours, $49) and adults (two hours, $99, women-only classes available), or you can book a private tutor (1½ hours, $175). There's a second shop in Bondi Pavilion.

Manly Surf SchoolSURFING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9932 7000; www.manlysurfschool.com; North Steyne Surf Club; icon-boatgiffManly)

Offers two-hour surf lessons year-round (adult/child $70/55), as well as private tuition. Also runs surf safaris up to the Northern Beaches, including two lessons, lunch, gear and city pick-ups ($120).

WORTH A TRIP

SOUTHSIDE SURFING

CronullaBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-traingifdCronulla)

Cronulla is a beachy surf suburb south of Botany Bay, its long surf beach stretching beyond the dunes to the Botany Bay refineries. It can be an edgy place (captured brilliantly in the 1970s cult teen novel Puberty Blues), with dingy fish-and-chip shops, insomniac teens and a ragged sense of impending ‘something’, which in 2005 erupted into racial violence. That said, the beach is beautiful, with a pleasant promenade, and it's easy to reach by train from Bondi Junction.

Swimming

There are 100-plus public swimming pools in Sydney, and many beaches have protected rock pools. Harbour beaches offer sheltered and shark-netted swimming, but nothing beats Pacific Ocean waves. Always swim within the flagged lifeguard-patrolled areas, and never underestimate the surf.

Cook & Phillip ParkSWIMMING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cookandphillip.org.au; 4 College St; adult/child $7/5.20; icon-hoursgifh6am-10pm Mon-Fri, 7am-8pm Sat & Sun; icon-traingifdSt James)

Olympic-sized indoor pool with a hydrotherapy area and a gym ($20 including pool use), plus yoga, pilates, a basketball court, swimming lessons and a wave pool for cooling off the kids.

Bondi Icebergs Swimming ClubSWIMMING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9130 4804; www.icebergs.com.au; 1 Notts Ave; adult/child $6/4; icon-hoursgifh6.30am-6.30pm Fri-Wed)

Sydney's most famous pool commands the best view in Bondi and has a cute little cafe.

Wylie's BathsSWIMMING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9665 2838; www.wylies.com.au; 4B Neptune St; adult/child $4.80/1; icon-hoursgifh7am-7pm Oct-Mar, to 5pm Apr-Sep; icon-busgifg372-374)

On the rocky coast south of Coogee Beach, this superb seawater pool (1907) is targeted at swimmers more than splashabouts. After your swim, take a yoga class ($18), enjoy a massage, or have a coffee at the kiosk, which has magnificent ocean views.

Mahon PoolSWIMMING

( GOOGLE MAP ; Marine Pde; icon-busgifg376-377)icon-freeF

Hidden within the cliffs, 500m north of Maroubra Beach, Mahon Pool is an idyllic rock pool, where the surf crashes over the edges at high tide. It's quite possibly Sydney's most beautiful bogey hole (sea bath).

North Sydney Olympic PoolSWIMMING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9955 2309; www.northsydney.nsw.gov.au; 4 Alfred St South; adult/child $7.10/3.50; icon-hoursgifh5.30am-9pm Mon-Fri, 7am-7pm Sat & Sun; icon-traingifdMilsons Point/Luna Park)

Next to Luna Park is this art deco Olympic-sized outdoor pool, plus a 25m indoor pool, kids’ splash zones, a gym ($18.50 with pool access), a crèche and a cafe, all with unbelievable harbour views.

Aquatic CentreSWIMMING

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9752 3666; www.aquaticcentre.com.au; Olympic Blvd; adult/child $7/6; icon-hoursgifh5am-9pm Mon-Fri, 6am-7pm Sat & Sun; icon-traingifdOlympic Park)

Indulge your Ian Thorpe or Misty Hyman fantasies in the actual record-shattering pool which was used in the 2000 Olympics. There’s also a leisure pool with a whirlpool in one corner, a state-of-the-art gym, a cafe and a swim shop. Wheelchair accessible.

SYDNEY FOR CHILDREN

Organised kids' activities ramp up during school holidays (December/January, April, July and September); check www.sydneyforkids.com.au, www.au.timeout.com/sydney/kids and www.childmags.com.au for listings.

Darling Harbour is home to Sea Life, Wild Life and the Maritime Museum, as well as the kid-focussed Monkey Baa Theatre Company and a great playground at Tumbalong Park. The hands-on Powerhouse Museum in neighbouring Ultimo is also worth investigating, as are the children's events run by the Art Gallery of NSW. Elsewhere, Taronga Zoo and Luna Park are sure to please.

Otherwise, if the weather's fine, head to the beach. The harbour beaches have less wave action, but most of the surf beaches have enclosed ocean pools suitable even for toddlers and babies. Great options include Nielsen Park, Balmoral Beach and Clovelly Beach. Gnarly seven-year-olds can learn to surf with Let's Go Surfing at North Bondi.

TTours

Bike Tours

BlueBananasBICYCLE TOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9114 8488; www.bluebananas.com.au; 281 Clarence St; icon-traingifdTown Hall)

Take some of the puff out of a guided cycling tour on an electric bike. Options include the 1½-hour Bike the Bridge tour ($59) and the 2½-hour Sydney City Tour ($99).

Bike BuffsBICYCLE TOUR

(icon-phonegif%0414 960 332; www.bikebuffs.com.au; adult/child $95/70; icon-traingifdCircular Quay)

Offers daily four-hour, two-wheeled tours around the harbourside sights (including jaunts over the Harbour Bridge), departing from Argyle Place. They also hire bikes (per half-day/day/week $35/60/295).

Bonza Bike ToursBICYCLE TOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9247 8800; www.bonzabiketours.com; 30 Harrington St; icon-traingifdCircular Quay)

These bike boffins run a 2½-hour Sydney Highlights tour (adult/child $66/79) and a four-hour Sydney Classic tour ($119/99). Other tours tackle the Harbour Bridge and Manly. They also hire bikes (per hour/half-day/day $15/35/50).

Manly Bike ToursCYCLING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-8005 7368; www.manlybiketours.com.au; 54 West Promenade; hire per hr/day from $15/31; icon-hoursgifh9am-6pm; icon-boatgiffManly)icon-sustainableS

Hires bikes and runs daily two-hour bike tours around Manly (10.30am, $89, bookings essential).

Boat Tours

Manly Ocean AdventuresBOAT TOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1300 062 659; www.manlyoceanadventures.com.au; 1/40 East Esplanade; from $85; icon-boatgiffManly)

Blast out to sea in a speedboat, following the coastline from Manly all the way to Bondi. From May to December they also offer whale-watching excursions.

Harbour JetBOAT TOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1300 887 373; www.harbourjet.com; King St Wharf 9; adult/child from $85/50; icon-boatgiffDarling Harbour)

One of several jet-boat operators (Sydney Jet, Oz Jet Boating, Thunder Jet – take your pick), these guys run a 35-minute white-knuckle ride with 270-degree spins, fishtails and 75km/h power stops that’ll test how long it’s been since you had breakfast.

Whale Watching SydneyCRUISE

(icon-phonegif%02-9583 1199; www.whalewatchingsydney.net)

Humpback and southern right whales habitually shunt up and down the Sydney coastline, sometimes venturing into the harbour. Between mid-May and December, WWS runs three-hour tours (adult/child $94/59) beyond the heads. For a faster, more thrilling ride, they also offer two-hour jet-boat expeditions ($60/40). Boats depart from Jetty 6, Circular Quay or from Cockle Bay Wharf, Darling Harbour.

Captain Cook CruisesCRUISE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9206 1111; www.captaincook.com.au; Wharf 6, Circular Quay; icon-traingifdCircular Quay)

As well as ritzy lunch and dinner cruises, this crew offers the aquatic version of a hop-on/hop-off bus tour, stopping at Watsons Bay, Taronga Zoo, Garden Island, Circular Quay, Luna Park and Darling Harbour.

Sydney ShowboatsCRUISE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-8296 7388; www.sydneyshowboats.com.au; King St Wharf 5; from $125; icon-boatgiffDarling Harbour)

Settle in for a three-hour, three-course dinner cruise on this paddle steamer, complete with cabaret singers, showgirls flashing their knickers, and a personal magician for your table. Very, very camp.

Private Tours

Bailey's SydneyTOUR

(icon-phonegif%0409 008 767; www.baileys-sydney.com; full day from $395)

Offers highly personalised private tours of Sydney 'for people who don't like tours'.

Real Sydney ToursBUS TOUR

(icon-phonegif%0402 049 426; www.realsydneytours.com.au; 1-3 passengers from $465, additional passengers from $135)

Private minibus tours around Sydney or to further-flung locations such as the Blue Mountains and the Hunter Valley.

Scenic Flights

Blue Sky HelicoptersSCENIC FLIGHTS

(icon-phonegif%02-9700 7888; www.blueskyhelicopters.com)

Departing from the airport, this experienced crew offers scenic flights, ranging from a 15-minute Bridge & Back trip ($330) to a five-hour Blue Mountains Helitour (from $2500).

Sydney by SeaplaneSCENIC FLIGHTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1300 720 995; www.sydneybyseaplane.com; Rose Bay Marina, 594 New South Head Rd, Rose Bay; 15min/30min/45min/1hr flights per person $190/260/445/525; icon-boatgiffRose Bay)

Scenic flights over Sydney Harbour and the Northern Beaches. Fly-and-dine packages are available for picnics in obscure places. Departs from Rose Bay and Palm Beach.

Sydney SeaplanesSCENIC FLIGHTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1300 732 752; www.seaplanes.com.au; Seaplane Base, Lyne Park, Rose Bay; 15min/30min flights per person $200/265; icon-boatgiffRose Bay)

Aerial excitement meets epicurean delight when you take a seaplane flight from Rose Bay to remote Berowra Waters Inn on the Hawkesbury (per person $585) or Jonah's (icon-phonegif%02-9974 5599; www.jonahs.com.au; 69 Bynya Rd, Whale Beach; breakfast $50, mains $49; icon-hoursgifh7.30-9am, noon-2.30pm & 6.30-11pm; icon-busgifgL90) at Whale Beach ($535). Also offers scenic flights around Sydney Harbour.

Walking Tours

I'm FreeWALKING TOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0405 515 654; www.imfree.com.au; 483 George St; icon-hoursgifh10.30am, 2.30pm & 6.00pm; icon-traingifdTown Hall)icon-freeF

Departing thrice daily from the square off George St between the Town Hall and St Andrew's Cathedral (no bookings taken – just show up), these highly rated three-hour tours are nominally free but are run by enthusiastic young guides for tips. The route takes in the Rocks, Circular Quay, Martin Place, Pitt St and Hyde Park.

Peek ToursWALKING TOUR

(icon-phonegif%0420 244 756; www.peektours.com.au; icon-traingifdCircular Quay)

If you find that a cool beverage makes local history easier to digest, this crew will lead you on a two-hour tour of the Rocks, stopping in historic pubs ($60, including a drink at each). They also offer a 90-minute walking tour of Bondi Beach ($40) and other guided walks on request.

Sydney Architecture WalksWALKING TOUR

(icon-phonegif%0403 888 390; www.sydneyarchitecture.org; adult/student walk $49/35, cycle incl bike $120/110)

These bright young archi-buffs run two 3½-hour cycling tours and five themed two-hour walking tours (The City; Utzon and the Sydney Opera House; Harbourings; Art, Place and Landscape; and Modern Sydney).

The Rocks Walking ToursWALKING TOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9247 6678; www.rockswalkingtours.com.au; cnr Argyle & Harrington Sts; adult/child/family $25/12/62; icon-hoursgifh10.30am & 1.30pm; icon-traingifdCircular Quay)

Regular 90-minute tours through the historic Rocks, with plenty of not-so-tall tales and interesting minutiae.

Other Tours

BridgeClimbWALKING TOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-8274 7777; www.bridgeclimb.com; 3 Cumberland St; adult $218-348, child $148-228; icon-traingifdCircular Quay)

Don a headset, a safety cord and a dandy grey jumpsuit and you'll be ready to embark on an exhilarating climb to the top of Sydney's famous harbour bridge. The priciest climbs are at dawn and sunset. A cheaper, 90-minute 'sampler' climb (heading only half-way up) is also available.

EcoTreasuresCULTURAL TOUR

(icon-phonegif%0415 121 648; www.ecotreasures.com.au)icon-sustainableS

Small group tours include Manly Snorkel Walk & Talk (90 minutes, adult/child $65/40) and longer excursions to the Northern Beaches and Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park, including Aboriginal Heritage Tours led by Indigenous guides.

SCG Tour ExperienceTOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1300 724 737; www.sydneycricketground.com.au; Venue Services Office, Allianz Stadium, Driver Ave; adult/child/family $30/20/78; icon-hoursgifh11am & 2pm Mon-Fri, 11am Sat; icon-busgifg373-377)

Run up the players’ race from the dressing rooms in your own sporting fantasy during this behind-the-scenes guided tour of the facilities at the Sydney Cricket Ground.

zFestivals & Events

Field DayMUSIC

(www.fielddaynyd.com.au)

Groove New Year's Day away in the Domain with well-known international and local acts (2015 headliners: SBTRKT, Alt-J, Danny Brown, Jamie XX, Salt-n-Pepa).

Sydney FestivalCULTURAL

(www.sydneyfestival.org.au; icon-hoursgifhJan)

Sydney's premier arts and culture festival showcases three weeks of music, theatre and visual art every January.

FlickerfestFILM

(icon-phonegif%02 9365 6888; www.flickerfest.com.au; Bondi Pavilion, Queen Elizabeth Dr; icon-busgifg380)

Bondi’s international short-film festival stages shorts, docos, animation and workshops over 10 days in mid-January.

Australia DayNATIONAL DAY

(www.australiaday.gov.au)

On 26 January, Sydneysiders celebrate with picnics, barbecues, fireworks, ferry races and, increasingly, much flag-waving and drunkenness.

Chinese New YearCULTURAL

(www.sydneychinesenewyear.com)

Seventeen-day, Chinatown-based festival featuring food, fireworks, dragon dancers and dragon-boat races to see in the lunar new year. Actual dates vary, but it's always in January or February.

St Jerome’s Laneway FestivalMUSIC

(www.lanewayfestival.com.au)

A one-day music festival held in early February at the Sydney College of the Arts, Rozelle, which reliably and presciently schedules the world's hippest new indie acts, just as they're breaking (past headliners have included Florence + The Machine, Lorde and St Vincent).

Sydney Gay & Lesbian Mardi GrasGAY & LESBIAN

(www.mardigras.org.au)

A two-week festival culminating in the world-famous massive parade and party on the first Saturday in March.

Sydney Royal Easter ShowFAIR

(www.eastershow.com.au)

Ostensibly an agricultural show, this wonderful Sydney tradition is a two-week fiesta of carnival rides, kiddie-centric show bags and sugary horrors. Crowds are massive.

Biennale of SydneyCULTURAL

(www.biennaleofsydney.com.au)

High-profile festival of art and ideas held between March and June in even-numbered years.

Fashion WeekFASHION

(www.mbffsydney.com.au)

Each April, the gaunt, pert and pubescent tread the catwalk in Carriageworks wearing local designer duds. Expect plenty of skin, bitchy gossip and the usual round of ‘Australian fashion has come of age’ PR shtick…oh, and some beautiful clothes.

Vivid SydneyCULTURAL

(www.vividsydney.com)

Immersive light installations and projections in the city, performances from local and international musicians, and public talks and debates with leading global creative thinkers; held over 18 days from late May.

State of Origin SeriesSPORTS

(www.nrl.com)

Rugby league fanatics consider this series of three matches between Queensland and New South Wales (held in May, June and July) to be the pinnacle of the game.

City2SurfSPORT

(www.city2surf.com.au)

Over 80,000 people run the 14km from Hyde Park to Bondi Beach on the second Sunday in August.

Festival of the WindsCARNIVAL

(www.waverley.nsw.gov.au)

Held on the second Sunday in September, this festival brings spectacular kites shaped like animals and aliens to Bondi Beach. The kids will love it, and with the wind doing all the work it’s very ecofriendly.

National Rugby League Grand FinalSPORTS

(www.nrl.com.au)

The two teams left standing at the end of the National Rugby League (NRL) season head to Sydney Olympic Park to decide who's the best. On the Sunday of the October long weekend.

Sculpture by the SeaART

(www.sculpturebythesea.com)

For 17 days from late October, the clifftop trail from Bondi Beach to Tamarama transforms into a sculpture garden. Serious prize money is on offer for the most creative, curious or quizzical offerings from international and local sculptors.

TropfestFILM

(www.tropfest.com)

The world's largest short-film festival is enjoyed from picnic blankets in Centennial Park on one day in early December.

Sydney Hobart Yacht RaceSPORTS

(www.rolexsydneyhobart.com)

On 26 December Sydney Harbour is a sight to behold as hundreds of boats crowd its waters to farewell the yachts competing in this gruelling race.

New Year's EveFIREWORKS

(www.sydneynewyearseve.com; icon-hoursgifh31 Dec)

The biggest party of the year, with flamboyant firework displays on the harbour.

4Sleeping

Sydney offers a huge quantity and variety of accommodation, with solid options in every price range. Even so, the supply shrivels up under the summer sun, particularly around weekends and big events. All but the smallest hotels vary their prices from day to day, depending on occupancy. Fridays and Saturdays tend to be the most expensive nights, while Sundays are usually the cheapest. Rates skyrocket over the busy Christmas/New Year period.

The Rocks & Circular Quay

icon-top-choiceoSydney Harbour YHAHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-8272 0900; www.yha.com.au; 110 Cumberland St; dm/r from $52/192; icon-non-smokinggifnicon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW; icon-traingifdCircular Quay)icon-sustainableS

Any qualms about the unhostel-like prices will be shelved the moment you head up to the rooftop of this sprawling, modern YHA and see the million-dollar views of Circular Quay. All of the spacious rooms, including the dorms, have private bathrooms and there are a host of sustainability initiatives in place.

Lord Nelson Brewery HotelPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9251 4044; www.lordnelsonbrewery.com; 19 Kent St; r from $180; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW; icon-traingifdCircular Quay)

Built in 1836, this atmospheric sandstone pub has a tidy set of upstairs rooms, with exposed stone walls and dormer windows with harbour glimpses. Most of the nine, light-filled rooms have en suites; there are also cheaper rooms with shared facilities. The downstairs microbrewery is a welcoming place for a pint. Rates include breakfast.

Sydney Harbour Bed & BreakfastB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9247 1130; www.bbsydneyharbour.com.au; 142 Cumberland St; r with/without bathroom $240/165; icon-non-smokinggifnicon-acongifaicon-wifigifW; icon-traingifdCircular Quay)

This quaint 100-year-old guesthouse offers lovely rooms which have an Australian flavour without straying into twee territory. Rooms come in a variety of configurations, have tea-and-coffee making facilities and feature hand-crafted furnishings and polished floors. Rates include a cooked breakfast.

RussellHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9241 3543; www.therussell.com.au; 143A George St; s without bathroom $159, d without bathroom $169-209, d $259-299; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW; icon-traingifdCircular Quay)

Old-world charm meets gentle contemporary styling at this long-standing favourite. The rooftop garden, downstairs wine bar and Circular Quay location are major drawcards. Next door to the historic Fortune of War pub, front rooms can be noisy on weekends.

icon-top-choiceoPark HyattHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9256 1234; www.sydney.park.hyatt.com; 7 Hickson Rd; r from $860; icon-parkgifpicon-non-smokinggifnicon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs; icon-traingifdCircular Quay)

At Sydney's most expensive hotel the impeccable service levels and facilities are second to none. With full frontal views across Circular Quay, you can catch all the action from your bed, balcony or bathtub. From the rooftop pool you feel you can almost touch the Harbour Bridge. And with 24-hour personal butler service for all guests, it's not like you need to be anywhere else.

Pullman Quay Grand Sydney HarbourAPARTMENTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9256 4000; www.pullmanhotels.com; 61 Macquarie St; apt from $472; icon-parkgifpicon-non-smokinggifnicon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs; icon-traingifdCircular Quay)

With the Opera House as its neighbour, the building known locally as 'the toaster' has a scorching-hot location. These well-designed contemporary apartments set you in the glitzy heart of Sydney, encircled by top restaurants, cocktail bars and that attention-seeking harbour.

LanghamHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-8248 5200; www.sydney.langhamhotels.com; 89-113 Kent St; r from $635; icon-parkgifpicon-non-smokinggifnicon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifsicon-petgif#; icon-traingifdWynyard)

Recently reopened after a $30 million revamp, this opulent hotel eschews excessive glitz in favour of an elegant antique ambience. This is where you head for a true five star stay featuring afternoon turn-down service, in-house pastry kitchen, page-long pillow menu and an extravagant pool and day spa experience, where guests can swim under a star-dazzled ceiling.

Shangri-LaHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9250 6000; www.shangri-la.com; 176 Cumberland St; r from $350; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs; icon-traingifdCircular Quay)

The Hong Kong–based chain's Sydney offering is a suitably sleek tower with palatial rooms and seriously spectacular views. As expected, service is efficient and discreet, whatever the request. The acclaimed Altitude Restaurant on the 36th floor offers a well-edited menu focusing on seasonal produce.

Quay West SuitesAPARTMENTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9240 6000; www.quaywestsuitessydney.com.au; 98 Gloucester St; apt from $387; icon-non-smokinggifnicon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs; icon-traingifdCircular Quay)

One of the older high-rise hotels, Quay West's early-1990s decor could just about qualify as retro. The roomy apartments are a home away from home, each with a full kitchen, lounge and laundry room. The views are extraordinary and the cheesy 'Roman-style' pool on level 24 is a lot of fun.

Harbour RocksBOUTIQUE HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-8220 9999; www.harbourrocks.com.au; 34 Harrington Street; r from $350; icon-non-smokinggifnicon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW; icon-traingifdCircular Quay)

This deluxe boutique hotel on the site of Sydney's first hospital has undergone a chic and sympathetic transformation from colonial warehouse to a series of New York loft–style rooms, with high ceilings, charcoal brick walls and elegant furnishings.

CITY CAMPING

icon-top-choiceoCockatoo IslandCAMPGROUND

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-8898 9774; www.cockatooisland.gov.au; camp sites from $45, 2-bed tents from $150, apts from $225, houses from $595; icon-boatgiffCockatoo Island)

Waking up on an island in the middle of the harbour is an extraordinary Sydney experience. Bring your own tent or 'glamp' in a two-person tent complete with a double bed on the water's edge. Non-campers will enjoy the elegant garden apartments. For self-caterers, there's a well-equipped camp kitchen; for everyone else, there are three cafes and bars.

Lane Cove River Tourist ParkCAMPGROUND

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9888 9133; www.lcrtp.com.au; Plassey Rd, Macquarie Park; unpowered/powered camp sites per 2 people $37/39, cabins from $135, luxury tents $200; icon-parkgifpicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs; icon-traingifdNorth Ryde)icon-sustainableS

Have a back-to-nature experience in the heart of suburbia, staying in this national park camp site 14km northwest of the CBD. There are caravan and camping sites, cabins and a pool to cool off in when the city swelters. For a romantic bush getaway, the Tandara luxury glamping option is worth the price. Park admission is included in the rates.

City Centre

Meriton Serviced Apartments Kent StreetAPARTMENTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-8263 5500; www.staymsa.com/kent; 528 Kent St; apt from $195; icon-non-smokinggifnicon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs; icon-traingifdTown Hall)

There's a lot to be said for staying in a serviced apartment, not least the ability to be able to wash your smalls whenever the need arises. Each of the one- to three-bedroom apartments in this modern tower has laundry facilities and a full kitchen complete with a dishwasher. Not that you'll want to cook, with Chinatown at your feet.

Adina Apartment Hotel SydneyAPARTMENT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9274 0000; www.adinahotels.com.au; 511 Kent St; studio from $180, 1-/2-bedroom apt from $240/280; icon-non-smokinggifnicon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs; icon-traingifdTown Hall)

Near both Chinatown and Darling Harbour but with double-glazed windows to ensure a good night's sleep, Adina offers spacious, fully equipped apartments and smaller studio rooms with kitchenettes. The larger apartments offer the best value.

Hyde Park InnHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9264 6001; www.hydeparkinn.com.au; 271 Elizabeth St; s/d from $165/176; icon-parkgifpicon-non-smokinggifnicon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW; icon-traingifdMuseum)

Right on the park, this relaxed place offers studio rooms with kitchenettes, deluxe rooms with balconies and full kitchens, and some two-bedroom apartments. All have flat-screen TVs with cable access. Breakfast and parking is included in the rate.

icon-top-choiceoQT SydneyBOUTIQUE HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-8262 0000; www.qtsydney.com.au; 49 Market St; r from $380; icon-parkgifpicon-non-smokinggifnicon-acongifaicon-wifigifW; icon-traingifdSt James)

Fun, sexy and completely OTT, this ultra-theatrical hotel is located in the historic State Theatre. Art deco eccentricity is complemented by retro games and DIY martini kits in all the rooms, which have 12 madcap styles. There's also a spa complete with hammam and old-school barber, plus a bar and grill operated by one of the city's most fashionable restaurateurs.

Westin SydneyHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-8223 1111; www.westinsydney.com; 1 Martin Pl; r from $310; icon-parkgifpicon-non-smokinggifnicon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs; icon-traingifdMartin Place)

This luxury address is popular with business travellers who choose between elegant heritage rooms in the grand General Post Office building or bedding down in a modern high-rise. Thoughtful extras like lending guests exercise gear (including running shoes!) are impressive.

Establishment HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9240 3100; www.merivale.com.au; 5 Bridge La; r from $350; icon-non-smokinggifnicon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW; icon-traingifdWynyard)

A room at this so-hip-it-hurts hotel is your VIP pass to the city's most decadent night out. What Establishment lacks in facilities it makes up for with its fabulous clutch of acclaimed bars and restaurants, not to mention designer good looks that wander from Japanese-style rooms to muted, tranquil abodes both with massive bathrooms stocked with Bulgari toiletries.

Haymarket

Railway Square YHAHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9281 9666; www.yha.com.au; 8-10 Lee St; dm from $39, d with/without bathroom from $130/116; icon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs; icon-traingifdCentral)

This hostel’s not just central, it’s actually in Central Station. A nouveau-industrial renovation has turned a former parcel shed (complete with platform) into a hip hostel. You can even sleep in dorms in converted train carriages. The kids will love it (but bring earplugs). Private en suite rooms also available.

Wake Up!HOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9288 7888; www.wakeup.com.au; 509 Pitt St; dm $38-44, s $98, d with/without bathroom $148/118; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW; icon-traingifdCentral)

Flashpackers sleep soundly in this converted 1900 department store on top of Sydney’s busiest intersection. It’s a convivial, colourful, professionally run hostel with 520 beds, lots of activities, a tour desk, 24-hour check-in, a sunny cafe, a bar and no excuse for neglecting your inner party animal.

Sydney Central YHAHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9218 9000; www.yha.com.au; 11 Rawson Pl; dm from $39, d with/without bathroom from $125/115; icon-parkgifpicon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs; icon-traingifdCentral)icon-sustainableS

Near Central Station, this 1913 heritage-listed monolith is the mother of all Sydney YHA properties. The renovated hostel includes everything from a travel agency to an in-house cinema. The rooms are brightly painted and the kitchens are great but the highlight is sweating it out in the sauna, then cooling off in the rooftop pool.

Darling Harbour & Pyrmont

icon-top-choiceo1888 HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-8586 1888; www.1888hotel.com.au; 139 Murray St ; d from $169, ste from $249 ; icon-non-smokinggifnicon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW; icon-traingifdTown Hall)

In a heritage-listed wool store, this stylish gem combines stark industrial minimalism with the warmth of ironbark wood beams and luxury appointments. Rooms range from the aptly named shoebox to the airy lofts and attic suites with harbour views. The cool but casual staff point out the hip hotel must-have's: lobby space set up for Instagram selfies, bikes for hire and an iPad in every room.

The DarlingCASINO HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9777 9000; www.thedarling.com.au; 80 Pyrmont St, Pyrmont ; r from $430; icon-parkgifpicon-non-smokinggifnicon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs; icon-boatgiffPyrmont Bay)

Beyond the bling of Star City Casino lies the sumptuous Darling. Sink into beds laid with 400-thread-count Egyptian cotton sheets and choose from a menu of 12 pillows. Hard to get up? No problem. Guests can adjust the lighting, air temperature and select a time for the blinds to open in the morning via remote control. The sweets and alcoholic treats in the well-stocked mini bar make for a great midnight feast.

Ultimo, Glebe & Chippendale

Glebe Point YHAHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9692 8418; www.yha.com.au; 262-264 Glebe Point Rd, Glebe ; dm $28-45, s without bathroom $70, d without bathroom $84-105; icon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW; icon-busgifg431)

A great choice for working travellers, this chilled-out hostel has decent facilities, plenty of organised activities and simple rooms with sinks. Less uptight than some YHAs, there's a convivial vibe particularly on the rooftop terrace which is popular on barbecue nights. A real plus are the surrounding cafes and easy access to public transport into town.

Forsyth Bed & BreakfastB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9552 2110; www.forsythbnb.com; 3 Forsyth St, Glebe; d $195-225; icon-non-smokinggifnicon-wifigifW; icon-busgifg431)

Count yourself lucky if you nab one of the two guest rooms at this bijou escape in Glebe's leafy back streets. Forsyth B&B has light, art-filled rooms, one with a balcony overlooking the city. The accommodating owners provide personalised itineraries, airport transfers and help with public transport. Breakfast is served in the Japanese-inspired garden. Minimum three night stay.

Surry Hills

BounceHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9281 2222; www.bouncehotel.com.au; 28 Chalmers St, Surry Hills; dm/r from $40/149; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW; icon-traingifdCentral)icon-sustainableS

This popular hostel has scooped up a pile of awards for its boutique take on budget accommodation. Beyond the standard dorms there are double rooms with sleek en suites, luxury hotel quality beds and TVs. Soak up those skyline views on the rooftop terrace. Guests are provided with extra-large lockers with a power supply to safely charge electronics.

Big HostelHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9281 6030; www.bighostel.com; 212 Elizabeth St, Surry Hills; dm $32-36, s/d $89/110; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW; icon-traingifdCentral)

A great, no-frills hostel experience with a cool rooftop terrace and a snazzy communal area. A definite plus is the free breakfast and free wi-fi on the ground floor.

Darlinghurst

Cambridge HotelHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9212 1111; www.cambridgehotel.com.au; 212 Riley St, Surry Hills; r from $170; icon-parkgifpicon-non-smokinggifnicon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs; icon-busgifg380)

You couldn’t wish for a more conveniently situated hotel than this urban bolt-hole. Most of the spacious, contemporary rooms have private balconies with city skyline vistas. Downstairs the happening Baccomatto Osteria serves brilliant Italian food, including the hotel breakfast.

icon-top-choiceoADGE Boutique Apartment HotelAPARTMENTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-8093 9888; www.adgehotel.com.au; 222 Riley St, Surry Hills; apt from $374; icon-non-smokinggifnicon-acongifaicon-wifigifW; icon-busgifg380)

As soon as you spot the bold wall murals, it's clear the ADGE is all about putting a clever twist on the ubiquitous serviced apartment experience. The 12 idiosyncratic but extremely comfortable two-bedroom apartments are bedecked with garishly striped carpets, smart TVs and colourful retro fridges. Free wi-fi, a welcome drink and a nightly turn-down service make this hotel one of Sydney's best boutique options.

MedusaBOUTIQUE HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9331 1000; www.medusa.com.au; 267 Darlinghurst Rd, Darlinghurst; r from $310; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-petgif#; icon-traingifdKings Cross)

Medusa’s shocking pink exterior and witty, luscious decor was once the height of hotel hipsterdom. Today the small colour-saturated suites with large beds and regal furnishings (the best face the courtyard) are looking less decadent. Thankfully the staff are as energetic as ever and small touches like the Aesop toiletries go a long way. So does the tremendous location.

Woolloomooloo

Mariners CourtHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9320 3888; www.marinerscourt.com.au; 44-50 McElhone St, Woolloomooloo; r $110-160; icon-parkgifpicon-wifigifW; icon-traingifdKings Cross)

This won’t be the flashest place you’ll stay in Sydney (the vibe is kinda 1994), but it offers that rare combination of location, price and a bit of elbow room. Not to mention a complimentary hot breakfast buffet. All rooms have courtyards or balconies, some with leafy outlooks. Good wheelchair access.

BLUE SydneyHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9331 9000; www.bluehotel.com.au; 6 Cowper Wharf Rdwy, Woolloomooloo; r from $250; icon-parkgifpicon-non-smokinggifnicon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs; icon-busgifg311)

Carved out of the historic Woolloomooloo finger wharf, now home to some top restaurants, much of the industrial machinery has been left exposed, to be admired over cocktails in the Water Bar. Rooms are mostly split-level, with king-size beds perched above living areas. Standard rooms are lit by skylight, giving the feel of staying on a luxury liner.

Kings Cross & Potts Point

Blue ParrotHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9356 4888; www.blueparrot.com.au; 87 Macleay St, Potts Point; dm $35-42; icon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs; icon-traingifdKings Cross)

If Polly wanted a cracker of a hostel she might head to this well-maintained, secure little place which feels more like a share house (albeit a rather clean one!) run by sisters Effie and Sasha, rather than a backpackers. The courtyard is strung with hammocks. There are no private rooms, just dorms – and as a 'genuine' youth hostel, Blue Parrot only accepts 18- to 35-year-olds.

Eva’s BackpackersHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9358 2185; www.evasbackpackers.com.au; 6-8 Orwell St, Kings Cross; dm from $34-36, r from $89; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW; icon-traingifdKings Cross)

Far enough from the Kings Cross fray, Eva’s is a long-time favourite offering free breakfast and wi-fi, plus an ace rooftop barbecue area and a sociable kitchen-dining room. Clean and secure.

JackarooHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9332 2244; www.jackaroohostel.com; 107-109 Darlinghurst Rd, Kings Cross; dm $34-36, r with/without bathroom $90/80; icon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW; icon-traingifdKings Cross)

There's no accommodation positioned closer to the heart of the action than this hostel directly above Kings Cross station. Ordinarily that wouldn't be a good thing, but Jackaroo passes muster. While communal spaces are lacklustre and rooms cramped, they are very clean. Try to nab a rear-facing one but pack earplugs regardless. The vibe is bustling and (extremely) youthful. A no-frills breakfast is included.

Hotel 59B&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9360 5900; www.hotel59.com.au; 59 Bayswater Rd, Rushcutters Bay; s $99, d $130-140; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW; icon-traingifdKings Cross)

In the style of a simple European pensione, Hotel 59 offers good bang for your buck on the quiet part of Bayswater Road close to Rushcutters Bay Park. The cafe downstairs does whopping cooked breakfasts (included in the price) for those barbarous Kings Cross hangovers. Two-night minimum.

DiamantHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9295 8888; www.diamant.com.au; 14 Kings Cross Rd, Kings Cross; r $159-375, ste $315-425, apts $500-3200; icon-parkgifpicon-non-smokinggifnicon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW; icon-traingifdKings Cross)

Presiding over William St this swish high-rise bridges the junction between Kings Cross and Darlinghurst. Space-age corridors open onto slick, spacious black-and-white rooms – all have king-size beds, quality linen, huge plasma screens and iPads. Courtyard suites offer roomy private balconies equipped with stylish outdoor furniture. Guests have free 24-hour access to a large public gym in the building.

Victoria Court HotelB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9357 3200; www.victoriacourt.com.au; 122 Victoria St; r from $169; icon-parkgifpicon-non-smokinggifnicon-acongifaicon-wifigifW; icon-traingifdKings Cross)

Chintzy charm reigns supreme at this faded but well-run B&B, which has 25 rooms in a pair of three-storey 1881 terrace houses. The larger more expensive rooms have balconies. The continental breakfast is served in the courtyard.

Macleay HotelHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9357 7755; www.themacleay.com; 28 Macleay St, Elizabeth Bay ; r from $165; icon-non-smokinggifnicon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs; icon-traingifdKings Cross)

At the posh end of Potts Point, surrounded by fabulous restaurants, is this understated hotel. The studios are a little faded but all have small kitchenettes and there's a laundry on each floor. An added plus is the rooftop pool and gym. Ask for a room on a higher floor for city and harbour views.

BayswaterBOUTIQUE HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-8070 0100; www.sydneylodges.com; 17 Bayswater Rd, Kings Cross; r from $120; icon-non-smokinggifnicon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW; icon-traingifdKings Cross)

This smart hotel tries for the boutique experience but unfortunately misses the mark when it comes to the small details. What it does offer is attractive and affordable lodgings with a great address. Cheaper rooms are compact so upsize to a King Deluxe for more space and larger windows. Given the location, it can get noisy on weekend nights.

Simpsons of Potts PointBOUTIQUE HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9356 2199; www.simpsonshotel.com; 8 Challis Ave; r from $255; icon-parkgifpicon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW; icon-traingifdKings Cross)

At the quiet end of a busy cafe strip this 1892 villa has been affectionately restored with decorative flourishes of yesteryear. The perennially popular Simpsons is widely loved for its charming service and the cosy luxury of the 12 guest rooms. The downstairs lounge is perfect for a game of chess and a complimentary sherry.

Paddington & Woollahra

Kathryn’s on QueenB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9327 4535; www.kathryns.com.au; 20 Queen St, Woollahra; r $180-260; icon-non-smokinggifnicon-acongifaicon-wifigifW; icon-busgifg380)

Deftly run by the ever-smiley Kathryn, this grandiose 1888 Victorian terrace opposite Centennial Park, has two tastefully decorated rooms dotted with antiques; choose between the en suite attic room or the 1st-floor room with a balcony. Great location for chichi shopping and dining.

ArtsHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9361 0211; www.artshotel.com.au; 21 Oxford St, Paddington; r from $174; icon-parkgifpicon-non-smokinggifnicon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs; icon-busgifg380)

A well-managed­ 64-room hotel with simple but comfortable rooms in a handy location on the Paddington-Darlinghurst border. There's heavy-duty triple-glazing on the Oxford St frontage, while the rear rooms face a quiet lane. The central courtyard has a small solar-heated pool and there are free bikes for guests.

Double Bay

InterContinental Sydney Double BayHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-8388 8388; www.ihg.com; 30 Cross St Double Bay ; d from $570, ste from $850; icon-parkgifpicon-non-smokinggifnicon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs; icon-boatgiffDouble Bay)

Following a lavish renovation, this resort has been restored to the grandeur that first made it a celebrity hotspot back in the day. Swathed in Italian marble and twinkling chandeliers, it's all class from the Stillery gin bar to the slick rooftop pool overlooking the bay. Many of the light and airy guest rooms have superb harbour views.

Eastern Beaches

Bondi Beachouse YHAHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9365 2088; www.yha.com.au; 63 Fletcher St, Bondi; dm $26-37, tw/d without bathroom $65-90, tw/d with bathroom $90-110, f with bathroom $162-180; icon-wifigifW; icon-busgifg361 from Bondi Junction)

Perched on a hillside between Bondi and Tamarama Beaches, this 95-bed art-deco hostel is the best in Bondi. Dorms sleep four to eight, and some of the private rooms have ocean views – all are clean and well maintained. Facilities include a cinema room, games room, courtyard barbecue, free bodyboard and snorkel use, and a stunning rooftop deck.

Adina Apartments Bondi BeachAPARTMENTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02 9300 4800; adinahotels.com.au; 69-73 Hall St; icon-non-smokinggifnicon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs; icon-busgifg389)

Bondi's newest hotel is super modern, smartly appointed and just a barefoot dash to the surf. The apartments all have balconies and there's a fabulous retail and restaurant precinct downstairs. The hotel offers small conveniences such as grocery delivery to the rooms, a lap-pool, gym and in-house movies making it perfect for longer stays.

Bondi Beach HouseGUESTHOUSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0417 336 444; www.bondibeachhouse.com.au; 28 Sir Thomas Mitchell Rd, Bondi; s $100-125, d $135-230, ste $270-300; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW; icon-busgifg380)

In a tranquil pocket behind Campbell Pde, this charming place offers a homely atmosphere with rustic-chic furnishings and a well-equipped communal kitchen. Though only a two-minute walk from the beach, you may well be tempted to stay in all day – the courtyard and terrace are great spots for relaxing, and the rooms are conducive to long sleep ins.

Dive HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9665 5538; www.divehotel.com.au; 234 Arden St, Coogee; r from $190; icon-parkgifpicon-non-smokinggifnicon-acongifaicon-wifigifW; icon-busgifg372-374)

Plenty of hotels don’t live up to their name and thankfully neither does this one. Right across the road from the beach, the 17 contemporary rooms at this relaxed, family-run affair are well designed. They come with kitchenettes and small stylish bathrooms fitted out with mosaic tiles and stainless steel sinks. Breakfast included.

Newtown & Around

icon-top-choiceoTara Guest HouseB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9519 4809; www.taraguesthouse.com.au; 13 Edgeware Rd, Enmore; d with/without bathroom $215/185; icon-wifigifW; icon-traingifdNewtown)

When you stay at a guesthouse run by designers with a passion for cooking and gardening, you know you're in for a good time. Brom and Julian have created a peaceful retreat with four graceful spaces with soaring ceilings and French doors opening onto large verandahs. The communal breakfast is a highlight. Rates include airport transfers.

Urban HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-8960 7800; www.theurbanhotel.com.au; 52-60 Enmore Rd, Newtown; r from $148; icon-non-smokinggifnicon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW; icon-traingifdNewtown)

A minute's walk from Newtown station and a bunch of great bars and eats, this brand new hotel in a former RSL Club offers industrial-sleek studio accommodation. The Urban stands out from the crowd with a slew of extras like free wi-fi, free landline calls Australia-wide and relaxed check-in/-out options. Kitchens include mini-bars stocked with local craft beers.

Manly

Manly BunkhouseHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9976 0472; www.bunkhouse.com.au; 35 Pine St; dm $38, tw/d $90 ; icon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW; icon-boatgiffManly)

Backpackers (mainly Dutch) mix it up with international students and holiday workers at this laidback hostel minutes from Manly Beach. The bright and clean four person dorms with en suite are the way to go, as the overpriced private rooms are in need of sprucing up.

Cecil Street B&BB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9977 8036; www.cecilstreetbb.com.au; 18 Cecil St, Manly ; s/d $110/$130 ; icon-parkgifpicon-wifigifW; icon-boatgiffManly)

This low-key bed and breakfast is in a handsome Federation-style home on a hill above Manly. The two simple but tastefully decorated rooms make the most of high ceilings, lead-light windows and polished timber floors. The only downside is the steep hike back from the beach.

101 Addison RoadB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9977 6216; www.bb-manly.com; 101 Addison Rd; s/d $165/185; icon-parkgifpicon-wifigifW; icon-boatgiffManly)

This sumptuously decorated 1880s cottage is perched on a quiet street close to the beach and ferry wharf. Two rooms are available but the delightful host only takes single bookings (from one to four people) – meaning you’ll have free rein of the antique-strewn accommodation, including a private lounge with a grand piano and open fire.

Novotel Sydney Manly PacificHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9977 7666; www.novotelmanlypacific.com.au; 55 North Steyne; r from $279; icon-parkgifpicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs; icon-boatgiffManly)

Right on Manly’s ocean beach, this midriser has a dated corporate vibe but is a million miles from the city’s business hustle. Check the surf from ocean-front balconies, or hit the rooftop pool if you don’t want sand in your laptop.

5Eating

Sydney’s cuisine celebrates the city’s place on the Pacific Rim, marrying the freshest local ingredients with the flavours of Asia, the Americas and, of course, the colonial past. The top restaurants are properly pricey, but eating out needn’t be expensive. There's a top-notch cafe scene and plenty of reasonably priced ethnic eateries where you can grab a cheap and tasty pizza or bowl of noodles.

The Rocks & Circular Quay

Sailors Thai CanteenTHAI

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9251 2466; www.sailorsthai.com.au; 106 George St; mains $24-29; icon-hoursgifhnoon-3pm Mon-Fri & 5-10pm daily; icon-traingifdCircular Quay)

Wedge yourself into a gap between arts-community operators, politicians and media manoeuvrers at Sailors' long communal table and order from the fragrant menu of Thai street-food classics. The balcony tables fill up fast, but fortune might be smiling on you. Downstairs the vibe's more formal and the prices higher.

icon-top-choiceoQuayMODERN AUSTRALIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9251 5600; www.quay.com.au; L3, Overseas Passenger Terminal; 3/4 courses $130/150; icon-hoursgifhnoon-2.30pm Tue-Fri, 6-10pm daily; icon-traingifdCircular Quay)

Quay is shamelessly guilty of breaking the rule that good views make for bad food. Chef Peter Gilmore never rests on his laurels, consistently delivering the exquisitely crafted, adventurous cuisine which has landed Quay on the prestigious World's Best Restaurants list. And the view? Like dining in a postcard.

icon-top-choiceoSakéJAPANESE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9259 5656; www.sakerestaurant.com.au; 12 Argyle St; mains $25-45; icon-hoursgifhnoon-3pm & 5.30-10.30pm; icon-traingifdCircular Quay)

Colourful sake barrels and lots of dark wood contribute to the louche Oriental glamour of this large, buzzy restaurant. Solo travellers can prop themselves around the open kitchen and snack on delectable Wagyu dumplings and maki rolls, while couples tuck into multicourse banquets of contemporary Japanese cuisine (from $88).

THE CULT OF THE CELEBRITY CHEF

Many Sydneysiders consider a sprinkling of celebrity to be an essential ingredient when it comes to dining out. There is a veritable constellation of chefs cooking around town who have attained local and international stardom courtesy of television cooking programs or cookbooks. These include the following:

Colin Fassnidge (Four In Hand, 4Fourteen) Irish-born chef famous for his nose-to-tail cooking and withering assessments of My Kitchen Rules contestants.

Bill Granger (bills) Lifestyle chef and author of 10 cookbooks whose food and style are thought by many to be quintessentially Sydney.

Luke Nguyen (Red Lantern on Riley) Presents his own television programs (Luke Nguyen's Vietnam, The Songs of Sapa, Luke Nguyen's Greater Mekong) and has written several cookbooks.

Matt Moran (Aria ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02-9240 2255; www.ariarestaurant.com; 1 Macquarie St; lunch & pretheatre mains $46, 2-/3-/4-course dinner $105/130/155; icon-hoursgifhnoon-2.30pm Mon-Fri, 5.30-11pm daily; icon-traingifdCircular Quay), Chiswick Restaurant, Opera Bar) Matt's portrait is on show at the National Portrait Gallery in Canberra and he is known to millions of Australians through regular TV appearances.

Neil Perry (Rockpool, Rockpool Bar & Grill, and Spice Temple) The city's original rock-star chef (with ponytail to match) has a long list of cookbooks and appearances on television cooking programs to his credit.

Lonely Planet Australia
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