Lower North Shore
At the northern end of the Harbour Bridge are the unexpectedly tranquil waterside suburbs of Milsons Point and McMahons Point. Both command astonishing city views. Just east of the bridge is the stately suburb of Kirribilli, home to Admiralty House ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) and Kirribilli House ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), the Sydney residences of the governor general and prime minister respectively.
East of here are the upmarket residential suburbs of Neutral Bay, Cremorne and Mosman, known for their pretty coves, harbourside parks and ‘ladies who lunch’. An excellent coastal walk stretches from Cremorne Point, past Mosman Bay and into a section of Sydney Harbour National Park hugging Bradleys Head. A less built-up alternative is the track tracing the Middle Head section of the national park, from Chowder Bay to Balmoral.
Luna ParkAMUSEMENT PARK
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9922
6644; www.lunaparksydney.com;
1 Olympic Dr;
h11am-10pm Fri
& Sat, 2-6pm Sun, 11am-4pm Mon;
fMilsons
Point)
F
A sinister chip-toothed clown face forms the entrance to this old-fashioned amusement park overlooking Sydney Harbour. It's one of several 1930s features, including the Coney Island funhouse, a pretty carousel and the nausea-inducing rotor. You can purchase a two-ride pass ($16), or buy a height-based unlimited-ride pass (from $30, cheaper if purchased online). Hours are extended during school and public holidays.
Mary MacKillop PlaceCHURCH, MUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-8912
4878; www.marymackillopplace.org.au;
7 Mount St; adult/child
$9/6;
h10am-4pm;
dNorth
Sydney)
This museum tells the life story of St Mary of the Cross (aka Mary MacKillop), Australia’s only Catholic saint. Born in Melbourne in 1842, she was a dedicated and outspoken educator, and a pioneer who prevailed over conservative hierarchical ideals, despite being excommunicated for six months. You’ll find her tomb inside the chapel.
Taronga ZooZOO
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9969
2777; www.taronga.org.au;
Bradleys Head Rd; adult/child
$46/23;
h9.30am-5pm;
fTaronga
Zoo)
S
A 12-minute ferry ride from Circular Quay, Taronga Zoo has 75 hectares of bushy harbour hillside full of kangaroos, koalas and similarly hirsute Australians, and imported guests. The zoo’s 4000 critters have million-dollar harbour views, but seem blissfully unaware of the privilege.
Highlights include the nocturnal platypus habitat, the Great Southern Oceans section and the Asian elephant display. Feedings and encounters happen throughout the day, while in summer, twilight concerts jazz things up.
Tours include Nura
Diya (www.taronga.org.au;
90min tour adult/child
$99/69; h9.45am Mon,
Wed & Fri), where
Indigenous guides introduce you to native animals and share
Dreaming stories about them, giving an insight into traditional
Aboriginal life; advance bookings essential. Roar & Snore (
%02-9978
4791; www.taronga.org.au;
adult/child
$320/205) is an
overnight family experience that includes a night-time safari, a
buffet dinner, breakfast and tents under the stars.
Catching the ferry is part of the fun, and given that parking is expensive (per day $17), it's well worth considering. From the wharf, the Sky Safari cable car or a bus will whisk you to the main entrance, from which you can traverse the zoo downhill back to the ferry. A Zoo Pass (adult/child/family $53/27/148) from Circular Quay includes return ferry rides, the bus or cable-car ride to the top and zoo admission. Disabled access is good, even when arriving by ferry.
Balmoral BeachBEACH
(
GOOGLE MAP ; The
Esplanade; g245)
The beachy enclave of Balmoral faces off with Manly across Middle Harbour, and has some good restaurants and a beaut swimming beach. Split in two by an unfeasibly picturesque rocky outcrop, Balmoral attracts picnicking North Shore families. Swimmers migrate to the shark-netted southern end.
WORTH A TRIP
GO WILD IN THE SUBURBS
Lane Cove National ParkNATIONAL PARK
(
GOOGLE MAP ; www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au;
Lady Game Dr; per car
$7; h9am-6pm;
dNorth
Ryde)
This 601-hectare park, surrounded by North Shore suburbia, is a great place to stretch out on some middle-sized bushwalks. It’s home to dozens of critters, including some endangered owls and toads. If you visit in spring, the water dragons will be getting horny and the native orchids and lilies will be flowering.
There’s a boat shed on Lane Cove River that rents out rowboats and kayaks, but swimming isn’t a good idea. You can also cycle and camp, and some sections are wheelchair accessible.
Manly
Laid-back Manly clings to a narrow isthmus abutting North Head, Sydney Harbour’s northern gatepost. The suburb’s unusual name comes from Governor Phillip’s description of the physique of the native people he met here; his Excellency was clearly indulging in an early example of the very Sydney habit of body-scrutinising.
The Corso connects Manly’s ocean and harbour beaches; here surf shops, burger joints, juice bars and pubs are plentiful. The refurbished Manly Wharf has classier pubs and restaurants, and there are some good cafes scattered around the back streets.
In summer, allocate a day to walking and splashing about. In winter, it’s worth heading over for a quick look around, if only for Sydney’s best ferry journey. Don’t bother staying after dark – there are much better eateries and bars elsewhere.

Manly
1Top Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
6Drinking & Nightlife
Manly Sea Life SanctuaryAQUARIUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %1800 199
742; www.manlysealifesanctuary.com.au;
West Esplanade; adult/child
$25/15;
h9.30am-5pm;
fManly)
This ain’t the place to come if you’re on your way to Manly Beach for a surf. Underwater glass tubes enable you to become alarmingly intimate with 3m grey nurse sharks. Reckon they’re not hungry? Shark Dive Xtreme (introductory/certified dives $280/205) enables you to enter their world.
Upstairs, the residents of the penguin enclosure have lawless amounts of fun. Manly has one of the last mainland colonies of little penguins in Australia, and this display aims to educate people about these cute-as-a-button critters (don't fret, none of these little guys were taken from the wild).
Manly Art Gallery & MuseumMUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; www.manly.nsw.gov.au;
West Esplanade; h10am-5pm
Tue-Sun;
fManly)
F
A short stroll from Manly Wharf, this passionately managed community gallery maintains a local focus, with exhibits of surfcraft, camp swimwear and beachy bits and pieces. There’s also a ceramics gallery, and lots of old Manly photos to peer at.
oManly
BeachBEACH
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
fManly)
Sydney's second most famous beach stretches for nearly two golden kilometres, lined by Norfolk Island pines and scrappy midrise apartment blocks. The southern end of the beach, nearest the Corso, is known as South Steyne, with North Steyne in the centre and Queenscliff at the northern end; each has its own surf lifesaving club.
Shelly BeachBEACH
(
GOOGLE MAP ; fManly)
This sheltered north-facing ocean cove is just a short 1km walk from the busy Manly beach strip. The tranquil waters are a protected haven for marine life, so it offers wonderful snorkelling.
North HeadNATIONAL PARK
(
GOOGLE MAP ;
North Head Scenic
Dr; g135)
About 3km south of Manly, spectacular, chunky North Head offers dramatic cliffs, lookouts and sweeping views of the ocean, the harbour and the city; hire a bike and go exploring.
North Head is believed to have been used as a ceremonial site by the native Camaraigal people. These days, most of the headland is part of Sydney Harbour National Park.
The 9km, four-hour Manly Scenic Walkway loops around the park; pick up a brochure from the visitor centre. Also here is the historic Quarantine Station.
Manly Scenic WalkwayOUTDOORS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; www.manly.nsw.gov.au;
fManly)
This epic walk has two major components: the 10km western stretch between Manly and Spit Bridge, and the 9.5km eastern loop around North Head. Either download a map or pick one up from the information centre near the wharf.
The western section traces the coast past million-dollar harbour-view properties and then through a rugged 2.5km section of Sydney Harbour National Park, which remains much as it was when the First Fleet sailed in. After crossing the Spit Bridge you can take a bus either back to Manly (bus 140, 143 or 144) or into the city (176 to 180).
The eastern loop is known as the North Head Circuit Track and takes between three and four hours. From the wharf, follow Eastern Esplanade and Stuart St to Spring Cove, head into the North Head section of Sydney Harbour National Park, and make your way through the bush to the spectacular Fairfax Lookout on North Head (approximately 45 minutes in total). From the lookout, walk the Fairfax Loop (1km, 30 minutes) and then head back via the Cabbage Tree Bay Walk, which follows the sea-sprayed shoreline back to Manly Beach via picturesque Shelly Beach and tiny Fairy Bower Beach.
Quarantine StationHISTORIC BUILDING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9466
1551; www.quarantinestation.com.au;
1 North Head Scenic
Dr;
hmuseum
10am-4pm Sun-Thu, to 8pm Fri & Sat;
g135)
F
From 1835 to 1983 this eerie-but-elegant complex was used to isolate new arrivals suspected of carrying disease, in an attempt to limit the spread of cholera, smallpox and bubonic plague. These days the 'Q Station' has been reborn as a tourist destination with a museum, accommodation, restaurants and a whole swathe of tour options.
Northern Beaches
The 20km-stretch of coast between Manly and Palm Beach has been called the most impressive urban surfing landscape in the world, and the sun-bronzed locals who swim and catch the waves at Freshwater, Curl Curl, Dee Why, Collaroy, Narrabeen, Mona Vale, Newport, Bilgola, Avalon, Whale and Palm Beaches are uniformly proud to agree. Each of these beaches has a markedly different atmosphere.
Driving is by far the best way to explore, but if that’s not an option and you still feel the need to make a Home & Away pilgrimage, bus L90 will get you from Railway Sq to Palm Beach in just under two hours.
Dee WhyBEACH
(
GOOGLE MAP ; The
Strand; g176)
A no-fuss family beach fronted by chunky apartments, some good cafes and ubiquitous surf shops. Grommets hit the waves and mums hit the rock pool.
NarrabeenBEACH
(
GOOGLE MAP ;
Ocean St; gL88,
L90)
Immortalised by the Beach Boys in Surfin’ USA, Narrabeen is hard-core surf turf – get some experience before hitting the breaks. Not the best swimming, but there is a pool and a lagoon too.
BilgolaBEACH
(
GOOGLE MAP ;
Bilgola Ave; gL88,
L90)
With its saltwater pool, Bilgola feels like a bit of a secret gem. Good swimming.
AvalonBEACH
(
GOOGLE MAP ;
Barrenjoey Rd; gL88,
L90)
Caught in a sandy ’70s time warp, Avalon is the mythical Australian beach you always dreamt of but could never find. Challenging surf and tangerine sand.
Whale BeachBEACH
(
GOOGLE MAP ; Whale Beach
Rd; gL90)
Sleepy Whale Beach, 3km south of Palm Beach, is well worth seeking out – a paradisiacal slice of deep, orange sand flanked by steep cliffs; good for surfers and families.
Palm BeachBEACH
(
GOOGLE MAP ;
Ocean Rd; gL90)
Long, lovely Palm Beach is a meniscus of
bliss, famous as the setting for cheesy TV soap Home &
Away. The 1881 Barrenjoey Lighthouse
(
GOOGLE MAP ; gL90)
punctuates the northern tip of the headland in an annexe of
Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park. You’ll need some decent shoes for
the steep 20-minute hike (no toilets!), but the views across
Pittwater are worth the effort. On Sundays short tours run every
half-hour from 11am to 3pm; no need to book ahead.
Ku-ring-gai Chase National ParkPARK
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9472
8949; www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au;
Bobbin Head Rd, Mount
Colah; per car per day $11, landing fee by boat
adult/child $3/2)
This spectacular 14,928-hectare park, 24km from the city centre, forms Sydney’s northern boundary. It’s a classic mix of sandstone, bushland and water vistas, taking in over 100km of coastline along the southern edge of Broken Bay, where it heads into the Hawkesbury River.
Ku-ring-gai takes its name from its original inhabitants, the Guringai people, who were all but wiped out just after colonisation through violence at the hands of British settlers and introduced disease. It’s well worth reading Kate Grenville’s Booker-nominated The Secret River for an engrossing but harrowing telling of this story.
Remnants of Aboriginal life are visible today
thanks to the preservation of more than 800 sites, including rock
paintings, middens and cave art. To learn more, enter the park
through the Mt Colah entrance and visit the Kalkari Discovery Centre (%02-9472
9300; Ku-ring-gai Chase Rd;
h9am-5pm), which has displays and videos on
Australian fauna and Aboriginal culture. There is a self-guided
walk on which you can see swamp wallabies, bush turkeys, native
ducks and goannas.
From the Resolute picnic area at West Head you can amble 100m to Red Hands Cave, where there are some very faint ochre handprints. About another 500m along Resolute Track (after a short steep section) is an Aboriginal engraving site. You can turn around and head back now, or continue to one more site and make a 3.5km loop that takes in Resolute Beach. The view from the West Head Lookout is truly spectacular – don’t miss it.
Less than 3km west of the picnic area along
West Head Rd is the Basin Track, which offers an easy stroll to a
good set of engravings. Approximately 2.5km further along the track
is the Basin, a shallow round inlet where there is a camping area
with barbecues, showers and toilets. Access is via the Basin Track
or by ferry or water taxi from Palm Beach. For information about
the park, stop at the Bobbin Head Information
Centre (
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9472
8949; Bobbin Head;
h10am-4pm), operated by the NSW National Parks &
Wildlife Service. Also here are a marina, picnic areas, a cafe and
a boardwalk leading through mangroves.
Access to the park is by car or the Palm Beach Ferry that is run by Fantasea. This runs hourly from Palm Beach to Mackerel Beach, via the Basin. To get to Palm Beach from the CBD, catch bus L90 from Railway Sq or bus 156 or 169 from Manly Wharf.
If you are arriving by car, enter Ku-ring-gai Chase Rd off Pacific Hwy, Mt Colah; Bobbin Head Rd, North Turramurra; or McCarrs Creek Rd, Terrey Hills.
2Activities
Diving
Sydney's best shore dives are at Gordons Bay, north of Coogee; Shark Point, Clovelly; and Ship Rock, Cronulla. Other destinations include North Bondi, Camp Cove and Bare Island. Popular boat-dive sites are the grey nurse shark colony at Magic Point, off Maroubra; Wedding Cake Island off Coogee; Sydney Heads; and off Royal National Park.
Dive Centre BondiDIVING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9369
3855; www.divebondi.com.au;
198 Bondi Rd;
h9am-6pm
Mon-Fri, 7.30am-6pm Sat & Sun;
g380)
This Professional Association of Diving Instructors (PADI) centre offers learn-to-dive courses (three days $395), plus various boat and shore dives around Sydney.
Dive Centre ManlyDIVING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9977
4355; www.divesydney.com.au;
10 Belgrave St;
h8.30am-6pm;
fManly)
Offers snorkel safaris ($50), two-day learn-to-dive PADI courses (from $445), guided shore dives (one/two dives $95/125) and boat dives (two dives $175).
Kayaking
Sydney Harbour KayaksKAYAKING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9960
4389; www.sydneyharbourkayaks.com.au;
Smiths Boat Shed, 81 Parriwi Rd,
Mosman;
h9am-5pm
Mon-Fri, 7.30am-5pm Sat & Sun;
g173-180)
Rents kayaks (from $20 per hour) and stand-up paddle boards (from $25), and leads four-hour ecotours ($99) from near the Spit Bridge.
Manly Kayak CentreKAYAKING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %1300 529
257; www.manlykayakcentre.com.au;
West Esplanade; 1/2/8hr from
$25/40/70;
h9am-5pm;
fManly)
As long as you can swim, you can hire a kayak
or paddle board from this stand near Manly Sea Life Sanctuary; with
additional stands near Manly Wharf Hotel (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; www.manlywharfhotel.com.au;
Manly Wharf; h11.30am-midnight;
fManly)
and the
Quarantine Station. You’ll be provided with a life jacket,
paddling instruction and tips on secluded beaches to visit.
Three-hour kayak tours cost $89.
Sailing
James CraigSAILING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9298
3888; www.shf.org.au; Wharf 7,
Pyrmont; adult/child $150/50;
fPyrmont
Bay)
The James Craig is a hulking three-masted iron barque built in England in 1874 that's normally moored outside the Maritime Museum. It sails out beyond the heads roughly twice-monthly (bookings essential). Trips include morning tea, lunch, afternoon tea and a sea shanty or three.
Champagne SailingSAILING
(%02-9948
1578; www.champagnesailing.com.au;
4hr charters $1200)
If you've got champagne tastes or ever fancied recreating Duran Duran's Rio video, charter a 10m catamaran and muster your 20 best friends to split the bill.
Sailing SydneySAILING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %1300 670
008; www.sailingsydney.net;
King St Wharf 9; adult/child
$129/99;
fDarling
Harbour)
Learn the ropes on a 2½-hour cruise on an actual America's Cup yacht.
Surfing
On the South Shore, get tubed at Bondi, Tamarama, Coogee, Maroubra and Cronulla. The North Shore is home to a dozen surf beaches between Manly and Palm Beach, including Curl Curl, Dee Why, Narrabeen, Mona Vale and Newport.
oLet’s Go
SurfingSURFING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9365
1800; www.letsgosurfing.com.au;
128 Ramsgate Ave; board &
wetsuit hire 1hr/2hr/day/week $25/30/50/150;
h9am-5pm)
North Bondi is a great place to learn to surf, and this well-established surf school offers lessons catering to practically everyone. There are classes for grommets aged seven to 16 (1½ hours, $49) and adults (two hours, $99, women-only classes available), or you can book a private tutor (1½ hours, $175). There's a second shop in Bondi Pavilion.
Manly Surf SchoolSURFING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9932
7000; www.manlysurfschool.com;
North Steyne Surf
Club;
fManly)
Offers two-hour surf lessons year-round (adult/child $70/55), as well as private tuition. Also runs surf safaris up to the Northern Beaches, including two lessons, lunch, gear and city pick-ups ($120).
WORTH A TRIP
SOUTHSIDE SURFING
CronullaBEACH
(
GOOGLE MAP ;
dCronulla)
Cronulla is a beachy surf suburb south of Botany Bay, its long surf beach stretching beyond the dunes to the Botany Bay refineries. It can be an edgy place (captured brilliantly in the 1970s cult teen novel Puberty Blues), with dingy fish-and-chip shops, insomniac teens and a ragged sense of impending ‘something’, which in 2005 erupted into racial violence. That said, the beach is beautiful, with a pleasant promenade, and it's easy to reach by train from Bondi Junction.
Swimming
There are 100-plus public swimming pools in Sydney, and many beaches have protected rock pools. Harbour beaches offer sheltered and shark-netted swimming, but nothing beats Pacific Ocean waves. Always swim within the flagged lifeguard-patrolled areas, and never underestimate the surf.
Cook & Phillip ParkSWIMMING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; www.cookandphillip.org.au;
4 College St; adult/child
$7/5.20; h6am-10pm
Mon-Fri, 7am-8pm Sat & Sun;
dSt
James)
Olympic-sized indoor pool with a hydrotherapy area and a gym ($20 including pool use), plus yoga, pilates, a basketball court, swimming lessons and a wave pool for cooling off the kids.
Bondi Icebergs Swimming ClubSWIMMING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9130
4804; www.icebergs.com.au;
1 Notts Ave; adult/child
$6/4;
h6.30am-6.30pm
Fri-Wed)
Sydney's most famous pool commands the best view in Bondi and has a cute little cafe.
Wylie's BathsSWIMMING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9665
2838; www.wylies.com.au; 4B Neptune
St; adult/child $4.80/1;
h7am-7pm
Oct-Mar, to 5pm Apr-Sep;
g372-374)
On the rocky coast south of Coogee Beach, this superb seawater pool (1907) is targeted at swimmers more than splashabouts. After your swim, take a yoga class ($18), enjoy a massage, or have a coffee at the kiosk, which has magnificent ocean views.
Mahon PoolSWIMMING
(
GOOGLE MAP ; Marine
Pde; g376-377)
F
Hidden within the cliffs, 500m north of Maroubra Beach, Mahon Pool is an idyllic rock pool, where the surf crashes over the edges at high tide. It's quite possibly Sydney's most beautiful bogey hole (sea bath).
North Sydney Olympic PoolSWIMMING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9955
2309; www.northsydney.nsw.gov.au;
4 Alfred St South; adult/child
$7.10/3.50;
h5.30am-9pm
Mon-Fri, 7am-7pm Sat & Sun;
dMilsons
Point/Luna Park)
Next to Luna Park is this art deco Olympic-sized outdoor pool, plus a 25m indoor pool, kids’ splash zones, a gym ($18.50 with pool access), a crèche and a cafe, all with unbelievable harbour views.
Aquatic CentreSWIMMING
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9752
3666; www.aquaticcentre.com.au;
Olympic Blvd; adult/child
$7/6;
h5am-9pm
Mon-Fri, 6am-7pm Sat & Sun;
dOlympic
Park)
Indulge your Ian Thorpe or Misty Hyman fantasies in the actual record-shattering pool which was used in the 2000 Olympics. There’s also a leisure pool with a whirlpool in one corner, a state-of-the-art gym, a cafe and a swim shop. Wheelchair accessible.
SYDNEY FOR CHILDREN
Organised kids' activities ramp up during school holidays (December/January, April, July and September); check www.sydneyforkids.com.au, www.au.timeout.com/sydney/kids and www.childmags.com.au for listings.
Darling Harbour is home to Sea Life, Wild Life and the Maritime Museum, as well as the kid-focussed Monkey Baa Theatre Company and a great playground at Tumbalong Park. The hands-on Powerhouse Museum in neighbouring Ultimo is also worth investigating, as are the children's events run by the Art Gallery of NSW. Elsewhere, Taronga Zoo and Luna Park are sure to please.
Otherwise, if the weather's fine, head to the beach. The harbour beaches have less wave action, but most of the surf beaches have enclosed ocean pools suitable even for toddlers and babies. Great options include Nielsen Park, Balmoral Beach and Clovelly Beach. Gnarly seven-year-olds can learn to surf with Let's Go Surfing at North Bondi.
TTours
Bike Tours
BlueBananasBICYCLE TOUR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9114
8488; www.bluebananas.com.au;
281 Clarence St;
dTown
Hall)
Take some of the puff out of a guided cycling tour on an electric bike. Options include the 1½-hour Bike the Bridge tour ($59) and the 2½-hour Sydney City Tour ($99).
Bike BuffsBICYCLE TOUR
(%0414 960
332; www.bikebuffs.com.au;
adult/child $95/70;
dCircular
Quay)
Offers daily four-hour, two-wheeled tours around the harbourside sights (including jaunts over the Harbour Bridge), departing from Argyle Place. They also hire bikes (per half-day/day/week $35/60/295).
Bonza Bike ToursBICYCLE TOUR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9247
8800; www.bonzabiketours.com;
30 Harrington St;
dCircular
Quay)
These bike boffins run a 2½-hour Sydney Highlights tour (adult/child $66/79) and a four-hour Sydney Classic tour ($119/99). Other tours tackle the Harbour Bridge and Manly. They also hire bikes (per hour/half-day/day $15/35/50).
Manly Bike ToursCYCLING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-8005
7368; www.manlybiketours.com.au;
54 West Promenade; hire per
hr/day from $15/31;
h9am-6pm;
fManly)
S
Hires bikes and runs daily two-hour bike tours around Manly (10.30am, $89, bookings essential).
Boat Tours
Manly Ocean AdventuresBOAT TOUR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %1300 062
659; www.manlyoceanadventures.com.au;
1/40 East Esplanade; from
$85;
fManly)
Blast out to sea in a speedboat, following the coastline from Manly all the way to Bondi. From May to December they also offer whale-watching excursions.
Harbour JetBOAT TOUR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %1300 887
373; www.harbourjet.com;
King St Wharf 9; adult/child
from $85/50;
fDarling
Harbour)
One of several jet-boat operators (Sydney Jet, Oz Jet Boating, Thunder Jet – take your pick), these guys run a 35-minute white-knuckle ride with 270-degree spins, fishtails and 75km/h power stops that’ll test how long it’s been since you had breakfast.
Whale Watching SydneyCRUISE
(%02-9583
1199; www.whalewatchingsydney.net)
Humpback and southern right whales habitually shunt up and down the Sydney coastline, sometimes venturing into the harbour. Between mid-May and December, WWS runs three-hour tours (adult/child $94/59) beyond the heads. For a faster, more thrilling ride, they also offer two-hour jet-boat expeditions ($60/40). Boats depart from Jetty 6, Circular Quay or from Cockle Bay Wharf, Darling Harbour.
Captain Cook CruisesCRUISE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9206
1111; www.captaincook.com.au;
Wharf 6, Circular
Quay;
dCircular
Quay)
As well as ritzy lunch and dinner cruises, this crew offers the aquatic version of a hop-on/hop-off bus tour, stopping at Watsons Bay, Taronga Zoo, Garden Island, Circular Quay, Luna Park and Darling Harbour.
Sydney ShowboatsCRUISE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-8296
7388; www.sydneyshowboats.com.au;
King St Wharf 5; from
$125;
fDarling
Harbour)
Settle in for a three-hour, three-course dinner cruise on this paddle steamer, complete with cabaret singers, showgirls flashing their knickers, and a personal magician for your table. Very, very camp.
Private Tours
Bailey's SydneyTOUR
(%0409 008
767; www.baileys-sydney.com;
full day from $395)
Offers highly personalised private tours of Sydney 'for people who don't like tours'.
Real Sydney ToursBUS TOUR
(%0402 049
426; www.realsydneytours.com.au;
1-3 passengers from $465, additional
passengers from $135)
Private minibus tours around Sydney or to further-flung locations such as the Blue Mountains and the Hunter Valley.
Scenic Flights
Blue Sky HelicoptersSCENIC FLIGHTS
(%02-9700
7888; www.blueskyhelicopters.com)
Departing from the airport, this experienced crew offers scenic flights, ranging from a 15-minute Bridge & Back trip ($330) to a five-hour Blue Mountains Helitour (from $2500).
Sydney by SeaplaneSCENIC FLIGHTS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %1300 720
995; www.sydneybyseaplane.com;
Rose Bay Marina, 594 New South Head
Rd, Rose Bay;
15min/30min/45min/1hr flights per
person $190/260/445/525;
fRose
Bay)
Scenic flights over Sydney Harbour and the Northern Beaches. Fly-and-dine packages are available for picnics in obscure places. Departs from Rose Bay and Palm Beach.
Sydney SeaplanesSCENIC FLIGHTS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %1300 732
752; www.seaplanes.com.au;
Seaplane Base, Lyne Park, Rose
Bay; 15min/30min flights per person
$200/265;
fRose
Bay)
Aerial excitement meets epicurean delight
when you take a seaplane flight from Rose Bay to remote
Berowra Waters Inn on the Hawkesbury (per person $585) or
Jonah's (%02-9974
5599; www.jonahs.com.au; 69 Bynya Rd,
Whale Beach;
breakfast $50, mains
$49;
h7.30-9am,
noon-2.30pm & 6.30-11pm;
gL90) at
Whale Beach ($535). Also offers scenic flights around Sydney
Harbour.
Walking Tours
I'm FreeWALKING TOUR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%0405 515
654; www.imfree.com.au; 483 George
St;
h10.30am,
2.30pm & 6.00pm;
dTown
Hall)
F
Departing thrice daily from the square off George St between the Town Hall and St Andrew's Cathedral (no bookings taken – just show up), these highly rated three-hour tours are nominally free but are run by enthusiastic young guides for tips. The route takes in the Rocks, Circular Quay, Martin Place, Pitt St and Hyde Park.
Peek ToursWALKING TOUR
(%0420 244
756; www.peektours.com.au;
dCircular
Quay)
If you find that a cool beverage makes local history easier to digest, this crew will lead you on a two-hour tour of the Rocks, stopping in historic pubs ($60, including a drink at each). They also offer a 90-minute walking tour of Bondi Beach ($40) and other guided walks on request.
Sydney Architecture WalksWALKING TOUR
(%0403 888
390; www.sydneyarchitecture.org;
adult/student walk $49/35, cycle incl
bike $120/110)
These bright young archi-buffs run two 3½-hour cycling tours and five themed two-hour walking tours (The City; Utzon and the Sydney Opera House; Harbourings; Art, Place and Landscape; and Modern Sydney).
The Rocks Walking ToursWALKING TOUR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9247
6678; www.rockswalkingtours.com.au;
cnr Argyle & Harrington
Sts; adult/child/family $25/12/62;
h10.30am &
1.30pm;
dCircular
Quay)
Regular 90-minute tours through the historic Rocks, with plenty of not-so-tall tales and interesting minutiae.
Other Tours
BridgeClimbWALKING TOUR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-8274
7777; www.bridgeclimb.com;
3 Cumberland St; adult
$218-348, child $148-228;
dCircular
Quay)
Don a headset, a safety cord and a dandy grey jumpsuit and you'll be ready to embark on an exhilarating climb to the top of Sydney's famous harbour bridge. The priciest climbs are at dawn and sunset. A cheaper, 90-minute 'sampler' climb (heading only half-way up) is also available.
EcoTreasuresCULTURAL TOUR
(%0415 121
648; www.ecotreasures.com.au)
S
Small group tours include Manly Snorkel Walk & Talk (90 minutes, adult/child $65/40) and longer excursions to the Northern Beaches and Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park, including Aboriginal Heritage Tours led by Indigenous guides.
SCG Tour ExperienceTOUR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %1300 724
737; www.sydneycricketground.com.au;
Venue Services Office, Allianz
Stadium, Driver Ave;
adult/child/family
$30/20/78;
h11am &
2pm Mon-Fri, 11am Sat;
g373-377)
Run up the players’ race from the dressing rooms in your own sporting fantasy during this behind-the-scenes guided tour of the facilities at the Sydney Cricket Ground.
zFestivals & Events
Field DayMUSIC
Groove New Year's Day away in the Domain with well-known international and local acts (2015 headliners: SBTRKT, Alt-J, Danny Brown, Jamie XX, Salt-n-Pepa).
Sydney FestivalCULTURAL
(www.sydneyfestival.org.au;
hJan)
Sydney's premier arts and culture festival showcases three weeks of music, theatre and visual art every January.
FlickerfestFILM
(%02 9365
6888; www.flickerfest.com.au;
Bondi Pavilion, Queen Elizabeth
Dr;
g380)
Bondi’s international short-film festival stages shorts, docos, animation and workshops over 10 days in mid-January.
Australia DayNATIONAL DAY
On 26 January, Sydneysiders celebrate with picnics, barbecues, fireworks, ferry races and, increasingly, much flag-waving and drunkenness.
Chinese New YearCULTURAL
(www.sydneychinesenewyear.com)
Seventeen-day, Chinatown-based festival featuring food, fireworks, dragon dancers and dragon-boat races to see in the lunar new year. Actual dates vary, but it's always in January or February.
St Jerome’s Laneway FestivalMUSIC
A one-day music festival held in early February at the Sydney College of the Arts, Rozelle, which reliably and presciently schedules the world's hippest new indie acts, just as they're breaking (past headliners have included Florence + The Machine, Lorde and St Vincent).
Sydney Gay & Lesbian Mardi GrasGAY & LESBIAN
A two-week festival culminating in the world-famous massive parade and party on the first Saturday in March.
Sydney Royal Easter ShowFAIR
Ostensibly an agricultural show, this wonderful Sydney tradition is a two-week fiesta of carnival rides, kiddie-centric show bags and sugary horrors. Crowds are massive.
Biennale of SydneyCULTURAL
High-profile festival of art and ideas held between March and June in even-numbered years.
Fashion WeekFASHION
Each April, the gaunt, pert and pubescent tread the catwalk in Carriageworks wearing local designer duds. Expect plenty of skin, bitchy gossip and the usual round of ‘Australian fashion has come of age’ PR shtick…oh, and some beautiful clothes.
Vivid SydneyCULTURAL
Immersive light installations and projections in the city, performances from local and international musicians, and public talks and debates with leading global creative thinkers; held over 18 days from late May.
State of Origin SeriesSPORTS
Rugby league fanatics consider this series of three matches between Queensland and New South Wales (held in May, June and July) to be the pinnacle of the game.
City2SurfSPORT
Over 80,000 people run the 14km from Hyde Park to Bondi Beach on the second Sunday in August.
Festival of the WindsCARNIVAL
Held on the second Sunday in September, this festival brings spectacular kites shaped like animals and aliens to Bondi Beach. The kids will love it, and with the wind doing all the work it’s very ecofriendly.
National Rugby League Grand FinalSPORTS
The two teams left standing at the end of the National Rugby League (NRL) season head to Sydney Olympic Park to decide who's the best. On the Sunday of the October long weekend.
Sculpture by the SeaART
For 17 days from late October, the clifftop trail from Bondi Beach to Tamarama transforms into a sculpture garden. Serious prize money is on offer for the most creative, curious or quizzical offerings from international and local sculptors.
TropfestFILM
The world's largest short-film festival is enjoyed from picnic blankets in Centennial Park on one day in early December.
Sydney Hobart Yacht RaceSPORTS
On 26 December Sydney Harbour is a sight to behold as hundreds of boats crowd its waters to farewell the yachts competing in this gruelling race.
New Year's EveFIREWORKS
(www.sydneynewyearseve.com;
h31
Dec)
The biggest party of the year, with flamboyant firework displays on the harbour.
4Sleeping
Sydney offers a huge quantity and variety of accommodation, with solid options in every price range. Even so, the supply shrivels up under the summer sun, particularly around weekends and big events. All but the smallest hotels vary their prices from day to day, depending on occupancy. Fridays and Saturdays tend to be the most expensive nights, while Sundays are usually the cheapest. Rates skyrocket over the busy Christmas/New Year period.
The Rocks & Circular Quay
oSydney Harbour
YHAHOSTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-8272
0900; www.yha.com.au; 110
Cumberland St;
dm/r from $52/192;
n
a
i
W;
dCircular
Quay)
S
Any qualms about the unhostel-like prices will be shelved the moment you head up to the rooftop of this sprawling, modern YHA and see the million-dollar views of Circular Quay. All of the spacious rooms, including the dorms, have private bathrooms and there are a host of sustainability initiatives in place.
Lord Nelson Brewery HotelPUB
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9251
4044; www.lordnelsonbrewery.com;
19 Kent St; r from
$180;
a
W;
dCircular
Quay)
Built in 1836, this atmospheric sandstone pub has a tidy set of upstairs rooms, with exposed stone walls and dormer windows with harbour glimpses. Most of the nine, light-filled rooms have en suites; there are also cheaper rooms with shared facilities. The downstairs microbrewery is a welcoming place for a pint. Rates include breakfast.
Sydney Harbour Bed & BreakfastB&B
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9247
1130; www.bbsydneyharbour.com.au;
142 Cumberland St; r
with/without bathroom $240/165;
n
a
W;
dCircular
Quay)
This quaint 100-year-old guesthouse offers lovely rooms which have an Australian flavour without straying into twee territory. Rooms come in a variety of configurations, have tea-and-coffee making facilities and feature hand-crafted furnishings and polished floors. Rates include a cooked breakfast.
RussellHOTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9241
3543; www.therussell.com.au;
143A George St; s without
bathroom $159, d without bathroom $169-209, d
$259-299;
a
i
W;
dCircular
Quay)
Old-world charm meets gentle contemporary styling at this long-standing favourite. The rooftop garden, downstairs wine bar and Circular Quay location are major drawcards. Next door to the historic Fortune of War pub, front rooms can be noisy on weekends.
oPark
HyattHOTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9256
1234; www.sydney.park.hyatt.com;
7 Hickson Rd; r from
$860;
p
n
a
i
W
s;
dCircular
Quay)
At Sydney's most expensive hotel the impeccable service levels and facilities are second to none. With full frontal views across Circular Quay, you can catch all the action from your bed, balcony or bathtub. From the rooftop pool you feel you can almost touch the Harbour Bridge. And with 24-hour personal butler service for all guests, it's not like you need to be anywhere else.
Pullman Quay Grand Sydney HarbourAPARTMENTS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9256
4000; www.pullmanhotels.com;
61 Macquarie St; apt from
$472;
p
n
a
i
W
s;
dCircular
Quay)
With the Opera House as its neighbour, the building known locally as 'the toaster' has a scorching-hot location. These well-designed contemporary apartments set you in the glitzy heart of Sydney, encircled by top restaurants, cocktail bars and that attention-seeking harbour.
LanghamHOTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-8248
5200; www.sydney.langhamhotels.com;
89-113 Kent St; r from
$635;
p
n
a
i
W
s
#;
dWynyard)
Recently reopened after a $30 million revamp, this opulent hotel eschews excessive glitz in favour of an elegant antique ambience. This is where you head for a true five star stay featuring afternoon turn-down service, in-house pastry kitchen, page-long pillow menu and an extravagant pool and day spa experience, where guests can swim under a star-dazzled ceiling.
Shangri-LaHOTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9250
6000; www.shangri-la.com;
176 Cumberland St; r from
$350;
a
W
s;
dCircular
Quay)
The Hong Kong–based chain's Sydney offering is a suitably sleek tower with palatial rooms and seriously spectacular views. As expected, service is efficient and discreet, whatever the request. The acclaimed Altitude Restaurant on the 36th floor offers a well-edited menu focusing on seasonal produce.
Quay West SuitesAPARTMENTS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9240
6000; www.quaywestsuitessydney.com.au;
98 Gloucester St; apt from
$387;
n
a
i
W
s;
dCircular
Quay)
One of the older high-rise hotels, Quay West's early-1990s decor could just about qualify as retro. The roomy apartments are a home away from home, each with a full kitchen, lounge and laundry room. The views are extraordinary and the cheesy 'Roman-style' pool on level 24 is a lot of fun.
Harbour RocksBOUTIQUE HOTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-8220
9999; www.harbourrocks.com.au;
34 Harrington
Street; r from $350;
n
a
i
W;
dCircular
Quay)
This deluxe boutique hotel on the site of Sydney's first hospital has undergone a chic and sympathetic transformation from colonial warehouse to a series of New York loft–style rooms, with high ceilings, charcoal brick walls and elegant furnishings.
CITY CAMPING
oCockatoo
IslandCAMPGROUND
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-8898
9774; www.cockatooisland.gov.au;
camp sites from $45, 2-bed tents from
$150, apts from $225, houses from $595;
fCockatoo
Island)
Waking up on an island in the middle of the harbour is an extraordinary Sydney experience. Bring your own tent or 'glamp' in a two-person tent complete with a double bed on the water's edge. Non-campers will enjoy the elegant garden apartments. For self-caterers, there's a well-equipped camp kitchen; for everyone else, there are three cafes and bars.
Lane Cove River Tourist ParkCAMPGROUND
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9888
9133; www.lcrtp.com.au; Plassey Rd,
Macquarie Park;
unpowered/powered camp sites per 2
people $37/39, cabins from $135, luxury tents
$200;
p
i
W
s;
dNorth
Ryde)
S
Have a back-to-nature experience in the heart of suburbia, staying in this national park camp site 14km northwest of the CBD. There are caravan and camping sites, cabins and a pool to cool off in when the city swelters. For a romantic bush getaway, the Tandara luxury glamping option is worth the price. Park admission is included in the rates.
City Centre
Meriton Serviced Apartments Kent StreetAPARTMENTS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-8263
5500; www.staymsa.com/kent;
528 Kent St; apt from
$195;
n
a
W
s;
dTown
Hall)
There's a lot to be said for staying in a serviced apartment, not least the ability to be able to wash your smalls whenever the need arises. Each of the one- to three-bedroom apartments in this modern tower has laundry facilities and a full kitchen complete with a dishwasher. Not that you'll want to cook, with Chinatown at your feet.
Adina Apartment Hotel SydneyAPARTMENT
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9274
0000; www.adinahotels.com.au;
511 Kent St; studio from
$180, 1-/2-bedroom apt from $240/280;
n
a
W
s;
dTown
Hall)
Near both Chinatown and Darling Harbour but with double-glazed windows to ensure a good night's sleep, Adina offers spacious, fully equipped apartments and smaller studio rooms with kitchenettes. The larger apartments offer the best value.
Hyde Park InnHOTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9264
6001; www.hydeparkinn.com.au;
271 Elizabeth St; s/d from
$165/176;
p
n
a
i
W;
dMuseum)
Right on the park, this relaxed place offers studio rooms with kitchenettes, deluxe rooms with balconies and full kitchens, and some two-bedroom apartments. All have flat-screen TVs with cable access. Breakfast and parking is included in the rate.
oQT
SydneyBOUTIQUE HOTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%02-8262
0000; www.qtsydney.com.au;
49 Market St; r from
$380;
p
n
a
W;
dSt
James)
Fun, sexy and completely OTT, this ultra-theatrical hotel is located in the historic State Theatre. Art deco eccentricity is complemented by retro games and DIY martini kits in all the rooms, which have 12 madcap styles. There's also a spa complete with hammam and old-school barber, plus a bar and grill operated by one of the city's most fashionable restaurateurs.
Westin SydneyHOTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-8223
1111; www.westinsydney.com;
1 Martin Pl; r from
$310;
p
n
a
i
W
s;
dMartin
Place)
This luxury address is popular with business travellers who choose between elegant heritage rooms in the grand General Post Office building or bedding down in a modern high-rise. Thoughtful extras like lending guests exercise gear (including running shoes!) are impressive.
Establishment HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9240
3100; www.merivale.com.au;
5 Bridge La; r from
$350;
n
a
i
W;
dWynyard)
A room at this so-hip-it-hurts hotel is your VIP pass to the city's most decadent night out. What Establishment lacks in facilities it makes up for with its fabulous clutch of acclaimed bars and restaurants, not to mention designer good looks that wander from Japanese-style rooms to muted, tranquil abodes both with massive bathrooms stocked with Bulgari toiletries.
Haymarket
Railway Square YHAHOSTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9281
9666; www.yha.com.au; 8-10 Lee
St; dm from $39, d with/without bathroom from
$130/116;
i
W
s;
dCentral)
This hostel’s not just central, it’s actually in Central Station. A nouveau-industrial renovation has turned a former parcel shed (complete with platform) into a hip hostel. You can even sleep in dorms in converted train carriages. The kids will love it (but bring earplugs). Private en suite rooms also available.
Wake Up!HOSTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9288
7888; www.wakeup.com.au; 509 Pitt
St; dm $38-44, s $98, d with/without bathroom
$148/118;
a
i
W;
dCentral)
Flashpackers sleep soundly in this converted 1900 department store on top of Sydney’s busiest intersection. It’s a convivial, colourful, professionally run hostel with 520 beds, lots of activities, a tour desk, 24-hour check-in, a sunny cafe, a bar and no excuse for neglecting your inner party animal.
Sydney Central YHAHOSTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9218
9000; www.yha.com.au; 11 Rawson
Pl; dm from $39, d with/without bathroom from
$125/115;
p
a
i
W
s;
dCentral)
S
Near Central Station, this 1913 heritage-listed monolith is the mother of all Sydney YHA properties. The renovated hostel includes everything from a travel agency to an in-house cinema. The rooms are brightly painted and the kitchens are great but the highlight is sweating it out in the sauna, then cooling off in the rooftop pool.
Darling Harbour & Pyrmont
o1888
HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%02-8586
1888; www.1888hotel.com.au;
139 Murray St ; d from $169,
ste from $249 ;
n
a
i
W;
dTown
Hall)
In a heritage-listed wool store, this stylish gem combines stark industrial minimalism with the warmth of ironbark wood beams and luxury appointments. Rooms range from the aptly named shoebox to the airy lofts and attic suites with harbour views. The cool but casual staff point out the hip hotel must-have's: lobby space set up for Instagram selfies, bikes for hire and an iPad in every room.
The DarlingCASINO HOTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9777
9000; www.thedarling.com.au;
80 Pyrmont St, Pyrmont
; r from $430;
p
n
a
i
W
s;
fPyrmont
Bay)
Beyond the bling of Star City Casino lies the sumptuous Darling. Sink into beds laid with 400-thread-count Egyptian cotton sheets and choose from a menu of 12 pillows. Hard to get up? No problem. Guests can adjust the lighting, air temperature and select a time for the blinds to open in the morning via remote control. The sweets and alcoholic treats in the well-stocked mini bar make for a great midnight feast.
Ultimo, Glebe & Chippendale
Glebe Point YHAHOSTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9692
8418; www.yha.com.au; 262-264
Glebe Point Rd, Glebe ;
dm $28-45, s without bathroom $70, d
without bathroom $84-105;
i
W;
g431)
A great choice for working travellers, this chilled-out hostel has decent facilities, plenty of organised activities and simple rooms with sinks. Less uptight than some YHAs, there's a convivial vibe particularly on the rooftop terrace which is popular on barbecue nights. A real plus are the surrounding cafes and easy access to public transport into town.
Forsyth Bed & BreakfastB&B
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9552
2110; www.forsythbnb.com;
3 Forsyth St, Glebe; d
$195-225;
n
W;
g431)
Count yourself lucky if you nab one of the two guest rooms at this bijou escape in Glebe's leafy back streets. Forsyth B&B has light, art-filled rooms, one with a balcony overlooking the city. The accommodating owners provide personalised itineraries, airport transfers and help with public transport. Breakfast is served in the Japanese-inspired garden. Minimum three night stay.
Surry Hills
BounceHOSTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9281
2222; www.bouncehotel.com.au;
28 Chalmers St, Surry
Hills; dm/r from $40/149;
a
i
W;
dCentral)
S
This popular hostel has scooped up a pile of awards for its boutique take on budget accommodation. Beyond the standard dorms there are double rooms with sleek en suites, luxury hotel quality beds and TVs. Soak up those skyline views on the rooftop terrace. Guests are provided with extra-large lockers with a power supply to safely charge electronics.
Big HostelHOSTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9281
6030; www.bighostel.com; 212
Elizabeth St, Surry Hills; dm $32-36,
s/d $89/110;
a
i
W;
dCentral)
A great, no-frills hostel experience with a cool rooftop terrace and a snazzy communal area. A definite plus is the free breakfast and free wi-fi on the ground floor.
Darlinghurst
Cambridge HotelHOTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9212
1111; www.cambridgehotel.com.au;
212 Riley St, Surry
Hills; r from $170;
p
n
a
i
W
s;
g380)
You couldn’t wish for a more conveniently situated hotel than this urban bolt-hole. Most of the spacious, contemporary rooms have private balconies with city skyline vistas. Downstairs the happening Baccomatto Osteria serves brilliant Italian food, including the hotel breakfast.
oADGE Boutique
Apartment HotelAPARTMENTS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-8093
9888; www.adgehotel.com.au;
222 Riley St, Surry
Hills; apt from $374;
n
a
W;
g380)
As soon as you spot the bold wall murals, it's clear the ADGE is all about putting a clever twist on the ubiquitous serviced apartment experience. The 12 idiosyncratic but extremely comfortable two-bedroom apartments are bedecked with garishly striped carpets, smart TVs and colourful retro fridges. Free wi-fi, a welcome drink and a nightly turn-down service make this hotel one of Sydney's best boutique options.
MedusaBOUTIQUE HOTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%02-9331
1000; www.medusa.com.au; 267
Darlinghurst Rd, Darlinghurst; r from
$310;
a
i
W
#;
dKings
Cross)
Medusa’s shocking pink exterior and witty, luscious decor was once the height of hotel hipsterdom. Today the small colour-saturated suites with large beds and regal furnishings (the best face the courtyard) are looking less decadent. Thankfully the staff are as energetic as ever and small touches like the Aesop toiletries go a long way. So does the tremendous location.
Woolloomooloo
Mariners CourtHOTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9320
3888; www.marinerscourt.com.au;
44-50 McElhone St,
Woolloomooloo;
r $110-160;
p
W;
dKings
Cross)
This won’t be the flashest place you’ll stay in Sydney (the vibe is kinda 1994), but it offers that rare combination of location, price and a bit of elbow room. Not to mention a complimentary hot breakfast buffet. All rooms have courtyards or balconies, some with leafy outlooks. Good wheelchair access.
BLUE SydneyHOTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9331
9000; www.bluehotel.com.au;
6 Cowper Wharf Rdwy,
Woolloomooloo;
r from $250;
p
n
a
i
W
s;
g311)
Carved out of the historic Woolloomooloo finger wharf, now home to some top restaurants, much of the industrial machinery has been left exposed, to be admired over cocktails in the Water Bar. Rooms are mostly split-level, with king-size beds perched above living areas. Standard rooms are lit by skylight, giving the feel of staying on a luxury liner.
Kings Cross & Potts Point
Blue ParrotHOSTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9356
4888; www.blueparrot.com.au;
87 Macleay St, Potts
Point; dm $35-42;
i
W
s;
dKings
Cross)
If Polly wanted a cracker of a hostel she might head to this well-maintained, secure little place which feels more like a share house (albeit a rather clean one!) run by sisters Effie and Sasha, rather than a backpackers. The courtyard is strung with hammocks. There are no private rooms, just dorms – and as a 'genuine' youth hostel, Blue Parrot only accepts 18- to 35-year-olds.
Eva’s BackpackersHOSTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9358
2185; www.evasbackpackers.com.au;
6-8 Orwell St, Kings
Cross; dm from $34-36, r from $89;
a
i
W;
dKings
Cross)
Far enough from the Kings Cross fray, Eva’s is a long-time favourite offering free breakfast and wi-fi, plus an ace rooftop barbecue area and a sociable kitchen-dining room. Clean and secure.
JackarooHOSTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9332
2244; www.jackaroohostel.com;
107-109 Darlinghurst Rd, Kings
Cross; dm $34-36, r with/without bathroom
$90/80;
i
W;
dKings
Cross)
There's no accommodation positioned closer to the heart of the action than this hostel directly above Kings Cross station. Ordinarily that wouldn't be a good thing, but Jackaroo passes muster. While communal spaces are lacklustre and rooms cramped, they are very clean. Try to nab a rear-facing one but pack earplugs regardless. The vibe is bustling and (extremely) youthful. A no-frills breakfast is included.
Hotel 59B&B
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9360
5900; www.hotel59.com.au;
59 Bayswater Rd, Rushcutters
Bay; s $99, d $130-140;
a
W;
dKings
Cross)
In the style of a simple European pensione, Hotel 59 offers good bang for your buck on the quiet part of Bayswater Road close to Rushcutters Bay Park. The cafe downstairs does whopping cooked breakfasts (included in the price) for those barbarous Kings Cross hangovers. Two-night minimum.
DiamantHOTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9295
8888; www.diamant.com.au;
14 Kings Cross Rd, Kings
Cross; r $159-375, ste $315-425, apts
$500-3200;
p
n
a
i
W;
dKings
Cross)
Presiding over William St this swish high-rise bridges the junction between Kings Cross and Darlinghurst. Space-age corridors open onto slick, spacious black-and-white rooms – all have king-size beds, quality linen, huge plasma screens and iPads. Courtyard suites offer roomy private balconies equipped with stylish outdoor furniture. Guests have free 24-hour access to a large public gym in the building.
Victoria Court HotelB&B
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9357
3200; www.victoriacourt.com.au;
122 Victoria St; r from
$169;
p
n
a
W;
dKings
Cross)
Chintzy charm reigns supreme at this faded but well-run B&B, which has 25 rooms in a pair of three-storey 1881 terrace houses. The larger more expensive rooms have balconies. The continental breakfast is served in the courtyard.
Macleay HotelHOTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9357
7755; www.themacleay.com;
28 Macleay St, Elizabeth Bay
; r from $165;
n
a
i
W
s;
dKings
Cross)
At the posh end of Potts Point, surrounded by fabulous restaurants, is this understated hotel. The studios are a little faded but all have small kitchenettes and there's a laundry on each floor. An added plus is the rooftop pool and gym. Ask for a room on a higher floor for city and harbour views.
BayswaterBOUTIQUE HOTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%02-8070
0100; www.sydneylodges.com;
17 Bayswater Rd, Kings
Cross; r from $120;
n
a
i
W;
dKings
Cross)
This smart hotel tries for the boutique experience but unfortunately misses the mark when it comes to the small details. What it does offer is attractive and affordable lodgings with a great address. Cheaper rooms are compact so upsize to a King Deluxe for more space and larger windows. Given the location, it can get noisy on weekend nights.
Simpsons of Potts PointBOUTIQUE HOTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9356
2199; www.simpsonshotel.com;
8 Challis Ave; r from
$255;
p
a
i
W;
dKings
Cross)
At the quiet end of a busy cafe strip this 1892 villa has been affectionately restored with decorative flourishes of yesteryear. The perennially popular Simpsons is widely loved for its charming service and the cosy luxury of the 12 guest rooms. The downstairs lounge is perfect for a game of chess and a complimentary sherry.
Paddington & Woollahra
Kathryn’s on QueenB&B
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9327
4535; www.kathryns.com.au;
20 Queen St,
Woollahra; r $180-260;
n
a
W;
g380)
Deftly run by the ever-smiley Kathryn, this grandiose 1888 Victorian terrace opposite Centennial Park, has two tastefully decorated rooms dotted with antiques; choose between the en suite attic room or the 1st-floor room with a balcony. Great location for chichi shopping and dining.
ArtsHOTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9361
0211; www.artshotel.com.au;
21 Oxford St,
Paddington; r from $174;
p
n
a
i
W
s;
g380)
A well-managed 64-room hotel with simple but comfortable rooms in a handy location on the Paddington-Darlinghurst border. There's heavy-duty triple-glazing on the Oxford St frontage, while the rear rooms face a quiet lane. The central courtyard has a small solar-heated pool and there are free bikes for guests.
Double Bay
InterContinental Sydney Double BayHOTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-8388
8388; www.ihg.com; 30 Cross St
Double Bay ;
d from $570, ste from
$850;
p
n
a
i
W
s;
fDouble
Bay)
Following a lavish renovation, this resort has been restored to the grandeur that first made it a celebrity hotspot back in the day. Swathed in Italian marble and twinkling chandeliers, it's all class from the Stillery gin bar to the slick rooftop pool overlooking the bay. Many of the light and airy guest rooms have superb harbour views.
Eastern Beaches
Bondi Beachouse YHAHOSTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9365
2088; www.yha.com.au; 63 Fletcher
St, Bondi; dm $26-37, tw/d without bathroom $65-90, tw/d with
bathroom $90-110, f with bathroom $162-180;
W;
g361 from
Bondi Junction)
Perched on a hillside between Bondi and Tamarama Beaches, this 95-bed art-deco hostel is the best in Bondi. Dorms sleep four to eight, and some of the private rooms have ocean views – all are clean and well maintained. Facilities include a cinema room, games room, courtyard barbecue, free bodyboard and snorkel use, and a stunning rooftop deck.
Adina Apartments Bondi BeachAPARTMENTS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02 9300
4800; adinahotels.com.au;
69-73 Hall St;
n
a
W
s;
g389)
Bondi's newest hotel is super modern, smartly appointed and just a barefoot dash to the surf. The apartments all have balconies and there's a fabulous retail and restaurant precinct downstairs. The hotel offers small conveniences such as grocery delivery to the rooms, a lap-pool, gym and in-house movies making it perfect for longer stays.
Bondi Beach HouseGUESTHOUSE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %0417 336
444; www.bondibeachhouse.com.au;
28 Sir Thomas Mitchell Rd,
Bondi; s $100-125, d $135-230, ste
$270-300;
a
W;
g380)
In a tranquil pocket behind Campbell Pde, this charming place offers a homely atmosphere with rustic-chic furnishings and a well-equipped communal kitchen. Though only a two-minute walk from the beach, you may well be tempted to stay in all day – the courtyard and terrace are great spots for relaxing, and the rooms are conducive to long sleep ins.
Dive HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9665
5538; www.divehotel.com.au;
234 Arden St,
Coogee; r from $190;
p
n
a
W;
g372-374)
Plenty of hotels don’t live up to their name and thankfully neither does this one. Right across the road from the beach, the 17 contemporary rooms at this relaxed, family-run affair are well designed. They come with kitchenettes and small stylish bathrooms fitted out with mosaic tiles and stainless steel sinks. Breakfast included.
Newtown & Around
oTara Guest
HouseB&B
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9519
4809; www.taraguesthouse.com.au;
13 Edgeware Rd,
Enmore; d with/without bathroom
$215/185;
W;
dNewtown)
When you stay at a guesthouse run by designers with a passion for cooking and gardening, you know you're in for a good time. Brom and Julian have created a peaceful retreat with four graceful spaces with soaring ceilings and French doors opening onto large verandahs. The communal breakfast is a highlight. Rates include airport transfers.
Urban HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%02-8960
7800; www.theurbanhotel.com.au;
52-60 Enmore Rd,
Newtown; r from $148;
n
a
i
W;
dNewtown)
A minute's walk from Newtown station and a bunch of great bars and eats, this brand new hotel in a former RSL Club offers industrial-sleek studio accommodation. The Urban stands out from the crowd with a slew of extras like free wi-fi, free landline calls Australia-wide and relaxed check-in/-out options. Kitchens include mini-bars stocked with local craft beers.
Manly
Manly BunkhouseHOSTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9976
0472; www.bunkhouse.com.au;
35 Pine St; dm $38, tw/d
$90 ;
i
W;
fManly)
Backpackers (mainly Dutch) mix it up with international students and holiday workers at this laidback hostel minutes from Manly Beach. The bright and clean four person dorms with en suite are the way to go, as the overpriced private rooms are in need of sprucing up.
Cecil Street B&BB&B
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9977
8036; www.cecilstreetbb.com.au;
18 Cecil St, Manly ; s/d
$110/$130 ;
p
W;
fManly)
This low-key bed and breakfast is in a handsome Federation-style home on a hill above Manly. The two simple but tastefully decorated rooms make the most of high ceilings, lead-light windows and polished timber floors. The only downside is the steep hike back from the beach.
101 Addison RoadB&B
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9977
6216; www.bb-manly.com; 101 Addison
Rd; s/d $165/185;
p
W;
fManly)
This sumptuously decorated 1880s cottage is perched on a quiet street close to the beach and ferry wharf. Two rooms are available but the delightful host only takes single bookings (from one to four people) – meaning you’ll have free rein of the antique-strewn accommodation, including a private lounge with a grand piano and open fire.
Novotel Sydney Manly PacificHOTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9977
7666; www.novotelmanlypacific.com.au;
55 North Steyne; r from
$279;
p
i
W
s;
fManly)
Right on Manly’s ocean beach, this midriser has a dated corporate vibe but is a million miles from the city’s business hustle. Check the surf from ocean-front balconies, or hit the rooftop pool if you don’t want sand in your laptop.
5Eating
Sydney’s cuisine celebrates the city’s place on the Pacific Rim, marrying the freshest local ingredients with the flavours of Asia, the Americas and, of course, the colonial past. The top restaurants are properly pricey, but eating out needn’t be expensive. There's a top-notch cafe scene and plenty of reasonably priced ethnic eateries where you can grab a cheap and tasty pizza or bowl of noodles.
The Rocks & Circular Quay
Sailors Thai CanteenTHAI
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9251
2466; www.sailorsthai.com.au;
106 George St; mains
$24-29;
hnoon-3pm
Mon-Fri & 5-10pm daily;
dCircular
Quay)
Wedge yourself into a gap between arts-community operators, politicians and media manoeuvrers at Sailors' long communal table and order from the fragrant menu of Thai street-food classics. The balcony tables fill up fast, but fortune might be smiling on you. Downstairs the vibe's more formal and the prices higher.
oQuayMODERN AUSTRALIAN
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9251
5600; www.quay.com.au; L3, Overseas
Passenger Terminal;
3/4 courses
$130/150;
hnoon-2.30pm
Tue-Fri, 6-10pm daily;
dCircular
Quay)
Quay is shamelessly guilty of breaking the rule that good views make for bad food. Chef Peter Gilmore never rests on his laurels, consistently delivering the exquisitely crafted, adventurous cuisine which has landed Quay on the prestigious World's Best Restaurants list. And the view? Like dining in a postcard.
oSakéJAPANESE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%02-9259
5656; www.sakerestaurant.com.au;
12 Argyle St; mains
$25-45;
hnoon-3pm
& 5.30-10.30pm;
dCircular
Quay)
Colourful sake barrels and lots of dark wood contribute to the louche Oriental glamour of this large, buzzy restaurant. Solo travellers can prop themselves around the open kitchen and snack on delectable Wagyu dumplings and maki rolls, while couples tuck into multicourse banquets of contemporary Japanese cuisine (from $88).
THE CULT OF THE CELEBRITY CHEF
Many Sydneysiders consider a sprinkling of celebrity to be an essential ingredient when it comes to dining out. There is a veritable constellation of chefs cooking around town who have attained local and international stardom courtesy of television cooking programs or cookbooks. These include the following:
Colin Fassnidge (Four In Hand, 4Fourteen) Irish-born chef famous for his nose-to-tail cooking and withering assessments of My Kitchen Rules contestants.
Bill Granger (bills) Lifestyle chef and author of 10 cookbooks whose food and style are thought by many to be quintessentially Sydney.
Luke Nguyen (Red Lantern on Riley) Presents his own television programs (Luke Nguyen's Vietnam, The Songs of Sapa, Luke Nguyen's Greater Mekong) and has written several cookbooks.
Matt Moran (Aria (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9240
2255; www.ariarestaurant.com;
1 Macquarie St; lunch &
pretheatre mains $46, 2-/3-/4-course dinner
$105/130/155;
hnoon-2.30pm
Mon-Fri, 5.30-11pm daily;
dCircular
Quay),
Chiswick Restaurant,
Opera Bar) Matt's portrait is on show at the National Portrait
Gallery in Canberra and he is known to millions of Australians
through regular TV appearances.
Neil Perry (Rockpool, Rockpool Bar & Grill, and Spice Temple) The city's original rock-star chef (with ponytail to match) has a long list of cookbooks and appearances on television cooking programs to his credit.