Gippsland & Wilsons Promontory
Gippsland & Wilsons Promontory Highlights
West Gippsland
Walhalla
South Gippsland
Korumburra
Wilsons Promontory National Park
Lakes District
Sale
Ninety Mile Beach
Metung
Lakes Entrance
East Gippsland & the Wilderness Coast
Mallacoota
Gippsland & Wilsons Promontory
Why Go?
The Great Ocean Road may get the crowds, but Gippsland hides all the secrets. Gippsland is one region where it pays to avoid the cities – the towns along the Princes Hwy are barely worth a traveller's glance. Elsewhere are some of the state's most absorbing, unspoilt and beautiful wilderness areas and beaches.
Along the coast there's Wilsons Promontory National Park, a fabulous destination for hikers and sightseers alike. This is only the start when it comes to stirring beaches. Epic Ninety Mile Beach yields to Cape Conran Coastal Park and Croajingolong National Park. Put them together and it's one of the wildest, most beautiful coastlines on Earth.
Inland, Walhalla is an utterly beguiling village, while the national parks at Snowy River and Errinundra are as deeply forested, remote and pristine as any in the country.
When to Go
AFeb–Mar For toe-tapping jazz festivals at Inverloch and Paynesville.
ASep–Nov Spring is the time for wild flowers and wildlife, as well as bushwalking.
ADec–Jan It gets busy, but there’s no better time to hit the oceans and lakes than summer!
Best Places to Stay
Gippsland & Wilsons Promontory Highlights
1 Hiking from Tidal River to Sealers Cove, or to a remote lighthouse, at spectacular Wilsons Promontory.
2 Camping in the dunes and fish from the beach at legendary Ninety Mile Beach.
3 Stepping back in time at Walhalla, an authentic gold-mining village.
4 Hiking deep into the forest or drive the remote tracks of Snowy River National Park.
5 Descending into ancient limestone caves and camp out at Buchan.
6 Taking an afternoon winery cruise then feast on a seafood dinner at Lakes Entrance.
7 Finding your quiet corner of the world in humbling Croajingolong National Park.
8 Cruising the waters of the Lakes District from the tranquil marina village of Metung.
9 Looking for koalas on little-known Raymond Island.
West Gippsland
The Princes Hwy heads east from Melbourne to the Latrobe Valley, an area known for its dairy farming and coal-fired power stations. Avoid the main towns of Moe, Morwell and Traralgon and head instead for the coast, or north into the foothills of the Great Dividing Range, where you’ll find the historic gold-mining town of Walhalla.
Walhalla
Pop 15
As you travel along the Latrobe Valley, there's little to suggest that a mere 35km north of the main road is Victoria's best-preserved and most charming historic town. Tiny Walhalla lies hidden high in the green hills and forests of west Gippsland. It's a postcard-pretty collection of sepia-toned period cottages and other timber buildings (some original, most reconstructed). The setting, too, is gorgeous, strung out along a deep, forested valley with Stringers Creek running through the centre of the township.
Gold was discovered here on 26 December 1862, although the first find was not registered until January 1863, which is when the gold rush really began. In its gold-mining heyday, Walhalla’s population was 5000. It fell to just 10 people in 1998 (when mains electricity arrived in the town). Like all great ghost towns, the dead that are buried in the stunningly sited cemetery vastly outnumber the living.
1Sights & Activities
The best way to see the town is on foot – take the tramline walk (45 minutes), which begins from opposite the general store soon after you enter town. Other good (and well-signposted) walks lead up from the valley floor. Among them, a trail leads to the Walhalla Cricket Ground (2km, 45 minutes return). Another trail climbs to the extraordinary Walhalla Cemetery (20 minutes return), where the gravestones cling to the steep valley wall. Their inscriptions tell a sombre, yet fascinating, story of the town's history.
Walhalla Historical MuseumMUSEUM
(
%03-5165
6250; admission $2; 
h10am-4pm)
Located in the old post office in the group
of restored shops along the main street, Walhalla Historical Museum
also acts as an information centre and books the popular two-hour
ghost tours (www.walhallaghosttour.info;
adult/child/family
$25/20/75; h7.30pm Sat,
8.30pm Sat during daylight saving) on Saturday nights.
Long Tunnel Extended Gold MineMINE
(%03-5165
6259; off Walhalla-Beardmore Rd; adult/child/family
$19.50/13.50/49.50;
h1.30pm daily,
plus noon & 3pm Sat, Sun & holidays)
Relive the mining past with guided tours exploring Cohens Reef, once one of Australia’s top reef-gold producers. Almost 14 tonnes of gold came out of this mine.
Walhalla Goldfields RailwayTRAIN
(%03-5165
6280; www.walhallarail.com;
adult/child/family return
$20/15/50; hfrom Walhalla
station 11am, 1pm & 3pm, from Thomson Station 11.40am, 1.40pm
& 3.40pm Wed, Sat, Sun & public holidays)
A star attraction is the scenic Walhalla Goldfields Railway, which offers a 20-minute ride between Walhalla and Thomson Stations (on the main road, 3.5km before Walhalla). The train snakes along Stringers Creek Gorge, passing lovely, forested gorge country and crossing a number of trestle bridges. There are daily departures in summer.
AUSTRALIAN ALPS WALKING TRACK
One of Australia's best and most challenging walks, the Australian Alps Walking Trail begins in Walhalla and ends close to Canberra. This 655km epic traverses the valleys and ridge lines of Victoria's High Country, and en route to Tharwa in the Australian Capital Territory (ACT) it climbs to the summit of Mt Bogong, Mt Kosciuszko and Bimberi Peak, the highest points in Victoria, New South Wales and the ACT respectively. Making the full trek is a serious undertaking that requires good navigational skills and high levels of fitness and self-sufficiency. If you're planning on doing the walk, which takes up to eight weeks to complete, track down a copy of Australian Alps Walking Track by John and Monica Chapman.
4Sleeping & Eating
You can camp for free at North Gardens, a camp site with toilets and barbecues (but no showers) at the north end of the village.
Chinese GardenCAMPGROUND
(www.walhallaboard.org.au; off Main St; per person $25)
At the northern end of town, this recently opened camping ground has full toilet and shower facilities, a laundrette and a barbecue area.
oWalhalla Star
HotelHISTORIC HOTEL
(%03-5165
6262; www.starhotel.com.au;
Main St; d incl
breakfast $189-249;
a
i
W)
The rebuilt historic Star offers stylish
boutique accommodation with king-sized beds and simple but
sophisticated designer decor, making good use of local materials
such as corrugated-iron water tanks. Guests can dine at the
in-house restaurant; others need to reserve in advance. Or you can
get good breakfasts, pies, coffee and cake at the attached
Greyhorse Café (mains from
$5; h10am-2pm).
Windsor HouseB&B
(%03-5165
6237; www.windsorhouse.com.au;
off Walhalla Rd; d $170, ste
$175-215)
The five rooms and suites in this beautifully restored two-storey 1878 home are fittingly old fashioned and ghost free. No children under 12.
Walhalla Lodge HotelPUB FOOD
(%03-5165
6226; Main St; mains
$15-28; hnoon-2pm
& 6-9pm Wed-Mon)
The Wally Pub is a cosy, one-room pub decked out with prints of old Walhalla and serving good-value counter meals – think burgers, pasta, schnitzels and T-bone steaks.
8Getting There & Away
Walhalla lies approximately 180km east of Melbourne. There's no public transport. By road, the town can be reached along a lovely, winding forest drive from Moe or Traralgon.
WORTH A TRIP
BUNURONG MARINE & COASTAL PARK
This surprising little marine and coastal park offers some of Australia’s best snorkelling and diving, and a stunning, cliff-hugging drive between Inverloch and Cape Paterson. It certainly surprised the archaeological world in the early 1990s when dinosaur remains dating back 120 million years were discovered here. Eagles Nest, Shack Bay, the Caves and Twin Reefs are great for snorkelling. The Oaks is the locals’ favourite surf beach. The Caves is where the dinosaur dig action is at.
SEAL Diving ServicesDIVING
(%03-5174
3434; www.sealdivingservices.com.au;
7/27 Princes Hwy,
Traralgon)
SEAL offers PADI open-water dive courses in Inverloch in summer. Also available are one-day dives for beginners and experienced divers, kids programs and weekend trips for certified divers at Bunurong Marine and Coastal Park.
South Gippsland
South Gippsland has plenty of gems along the coast between Melbourne and Wilsons Promontory – Venus Bay, Cape Liptrap Coastal Park and Waratah Bay are all worth exploring. Inland among the farming communities are some great drives through the Strzelecki Ranges and trendy villages such as Koonwarra.
Korumburra
Pop 3350
The first sizeable town along the South Gippsland Hwy if you're coming from Melbourne, Korumburra is scenically situated on the edge of the Strzelecki Ranges. It makes a decent pause on your way to Wilsons Prom.
1Sights
Coal Creek VillageMUSEUM
(%03-5655
1811; www.coalcreekvillage.com.au;
12 Silkstone Rd; h10am-4.30pm
Thu-Mon, daily during school holidays)
F
Coal Creek Village is a re-creation of a 19th-century mining town. It's a little less polished and touristy than other similar places in Victoria, which may appeal to many.
8Getting There & Away
V/lineBUS
V/Line coaches from Melbourne’s Southern Cross Station run to Korumburra ($12.80, 1¾ hours) up to seven times daily.
WORTH A TRIP
KOONWARRA
Tucked away in rolling dairy country along the South Gippsland Hwy, this tiny township has built itself a reputation as something of a niche foodie destination, thanks to its cooking school and general store.
Koonwarra is served by buses running between Korumburra and Foster three times a day weekdays and up to six times daily on weekends. By road the town is 32km southwest of Korumburra and 21km northeast of Inverloch.
1Sights & Activities
Farmers MarketMARKET
(%0408 619
182; www.kfm.org.au; Memorial
Park, Koala Dr;
h8am-1pm 1st
Sat of month)
Koonwarra hosts a Farmers Market at Memorial Park on the first Saturday of each month, with organic everything (fruit, vegetables, berries, coffee), plus hormone-free beef and chemical-free cheeses.
Milly & Romeo's Artisan Bakery & Cooking SchoolCOOKING COURSE
(%03-5664
2211; www.millyandromeos.com.au;
1 Koala Dr; adult/child
from $90/50 ;
h9.30am-4.30pm
Thu & Fri, 8.30am-4.30pm Sat & Sun, longer hr in
summer)
Victoria’s first organic-certified cooking school offers short courses in making cakes, bread, traditional pastries, French classics and pasta, as well as running cooking classes for kids.
4Sleeping & Eating
Lyre Bird Hill Winery & Guest HouseB&B
(%03-5664
3204; www.lyrebirdhill.com.au;
370 Inverloch Rd; s/d
$125/175; hcellar door
10am-5pm Wed-Mon Oct, Nov & Feb-Apr, daily Dec & Jan, by
appointment May-Sep;
a)
Stay among the vines 4km southwest of Koonwarra. The quaint, old-fashioned B&B has light-filled rooms overlooking the garden, while the self-contained country-style cottage is perfect for a family. The vineyard is right next door.
oKoonwarra Food
& Wine StoreCAFE
(%03-5664
2285; www.koonwarrastore.com;
cnr South Gippsland Hwy & Koala
Dr; mains $12-26; h8.30am-4pm)
Local produce and wines are on sale in this renovated timber building. Inside is a renowned cafe that serves simple food with flair, priding itself on using organic, low-impact suppliers and products. Themed dinners occur twice monthly on Saturdays. Soak up the ambience in the wooden interior, or relax at a table in the shaded cottage gardens.
Wilsons Promontory National Park
If you like wilderness bushwalking, stunning coastal scenery and secluded white-sand beaches, you’ll absolutely love this place. The Prom, as it’s affectionately known, is one of the most popular national parks in Australia. Hardly surprising, given its accessibility from Melbourne, its network of more than 80km of walking tracks, its swimming and surf beaches and the abundant wildlife. The southernmost part of mainland Australia, the Prom once formed part of a land bridge that allowed people to walk to Tasmania.
Tidal River, 30km from the park entrance, is the hub, although there's no fuel to be had here. It's home to the Parks Victoria office, a general store, cafe and accommodation. The wildlife around Tidal River is incredibly tame.
2Activities
There’s an extensive choice of marked walking trails, taking you through forests, marshes, valleys of tree ferns, low granite mountains and along beaches lined with sand dunes. The Parks Victoria office at Tidal River has brochures with details of walks, from 15-minute strolls to multi-day hikes. Even non-walkers can enjoy some of the park’s beauty, with car-park access off the Tidal River road leading to gorgeous beaches and lookouts.
Swimming is safe at the gorgeous beaches at Norman Bay (Tidal River) and around the headland at Squeaky Beach – the ultra-fine quartz sand here really does squeak beneath your feet!
TOP PROM WALKS
From Christmas to the end of January a free shuttle bus operates between the Tidal River visitor car park and the Telegraph Saddle car park (a nice way to start the Great Prom Walk).
Great Prom Walk The most popular long-distance hike is a moderate 45km circuit across to Sealers Cove from Tidal River, down to Refuge Cove, Waterloo Bay and the lighthouse, returning to Tidal River via Oberon Bay. Allow three days and coordinate your walk with tide times, as creek crossings can be hazardous. It’s possible to visit or stay at the lighthouse by prior arrangement with the Parks office.
Sealers Cove Walk The best overnight hike, this two-day walk starts at Telegraph Saddle and heads down Telegraph Track to stay overnight at beautiful Little Waterloo Bay (12km, 4½ hours). The next day, walk on to Sealers Cove via Refuge Cove and return to Telegraph Saddle (24km, 7½ hours).
Lilly Pilly Gully Nature Walk An easy 5km (two-hour) walk through heathland and eucalypt forests, with lots of wildlife.
Mt Oberon Summit Starting from the Mt Oberon car park, this moderate-to-hard 7km (2½-hour) walk is an ideal introduction to the Prom with panoramic views from the summit. The free Mt Oberon shuttle bus can take you to the Telegraph Saddle car park and back.
Little Oberon Bay An easy-to-moderate 8km (three-hour) walk over sand dunes covered in coastal tea trees with beautiful views over Little Oberon Bay.
Squeaky Beach Nature Walk Another easy 5km return stroll through coastal tea trees and banksias to a sensational white-sand beach.
TTours
Bunyip ToursBUS TOUR
(%1300 286
947; www.bunyiptours.com;
tours from $120; hWed &
Sun, plus Fri in summer)
Proudly carbon-neutral, Bunyip Tours offers a one-day guided tour to the Prom from Melbourne, with the option of staying on another two days to explore by yourself.
First Track AdventuresADVENTURE TOUR
(%03-5634
2761; www.firsttrack.com.au)
This Yarragon-based company organises customised bushwalking, canoeing and abseiling trips to the Prom for individuals and groups. Prices vary according to group size and activity.
4Sleeping
Tidal River
oLighthouse
Keepers' CottagesCOTTAGE
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %Parks
Victoria 13 19 63;
www.parkweb.vic.gov.au;
d cottage $334-371, 12-bed cottage per
person from $133.80)
These isolated, heritage-listed 1850s cottages with thick granite walls, attached to a working lightstation on a pimple of land that juts out into the wild ocean, are a real getaway. Kick back after the 19km hike from Tidal River and watch ships or whales passing by. The cottages have shared facilities, including a fully equipped kitchen.
oWilderness
RetreatSAFARI TENT
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.wildernessretreats.com.au; d $312, extra person $25)
Nestled in bushland at Tidal River, these luxury safari tents, each with their own deck, bathroom, queen-sized beds, heating and a communal tent kitchen, sleep up to four people and are pretty cool. It's like being on an African safari with a kookaburra soundtrack.
PROM ACCOMMODATION
Nothing beats a night at the Prom. The main accommodation base is Tidal River, but there are 11 bush-camping (outstation) areas around the Prom, all with pit or compost toilets, but no other facilities; you need to carry in your own drinking water.
Unpowered/powered camp sites with a vehicle and up to eight people start at $54.90/$61.10 per site. There are also wooden huts with bunks and kitchenettes but no bathrooms (4/6-bed hut from $98.50/150), and spacious and private self-contained cabins sleeping up to six people ($229.60 to $313.80).
Tidal River has 484 camp sites, but only 20 powered sites. For the Christmas school holiday period there’s a ballot for sites (apply online by 30 June through Parks Victoria).
Parks VictoriaTOURIST INFORMATION
(%03-5680 9555,
13 19 63; www.parkweb.vic.gov.au;
h8.30am-4.30pm)
The helpful visitor centre at Tidal River books all park accommodation, including permits for camping away from Tidal River.
Wilsons Prom & Surrounds Accommodation ServiceACCOMMODATION SERVICES
For bookings in the Prom's hinterland, try the Wilsons Prom & Surrounds Accommodation Service.
Yanakie & Foster
The tiny settlement of Yanakie offers the closest accommodation – from cabins and camping to luxury cottages – outside the park boundaries. Foster, the nearest main town, has a backpackers and several motels.
Prom Coast BackpackersHOSTEL
(%0427 875
735; www.promcoastyha.com.au;
40 Station Rd,
Foster; dm/d from $35/70; i)
The closest backpacker hostel to the park is this friendly YHA in Foster. The cosy renovated cottage sleeps only 10, so it’s always intimate.
Black Cockatoo CottagesCOTTAGE
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5687
1306; www.blackcockatoo.com;
60 Foley Rd,
Yanakie; d $140-170, 6-person house $250)
You can take in glorious views of the national park without leaving your very comfortable bed – or breaking the bank – in these private, stylish, black-timber cottages. There are three modern cottages and a three-bedroom house.
oLimosa
RiseCOTTAGE
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5687
1135; www.limosarise.com.au;
40 Dalgleish Rd,
Yanakie; d $260-455; a)
The views are stupendous from these luxury, self-contained cottages near the Prom entrance. The three tastefully appointed cottages (a studio, one bedroom and two bedroom) are fitted with full-length glass windows taking complete advantage of sweeping views across Corner Inlet and the Prom’s mountains.
5Eating
Tidal River General Store & CafeCAFE
(
GOOGLE MAP ; mains
$5-24; h9am-5pm
Sun-Fri, to 6pm Sat)
The Tidal River general store stocks grocery items and some camping equipment, but if you're hiking or staying a while it's cheaper to stock up in Foster. The attached cafe serves takeaway food such as pies and sandwiches, as well as breakfasts, light lunches and bistro-style meals on weekends and holidays.
8Getting There & Away
Tidal River lies approximately 224km southeast of Melbourne. There’s no direct public transport between Melbourne and the Prom.
V/LineBUS
(%13 61
96; www.vline.com.au)
Buses from Melbourne’s Southern Cross Station travel to Foster ($20.40, three hours, four daily) via Dandenong and Koo Wee Rup.
Wilsons Promontory Bus ServiceBUS
(Moon's Bus
Lines; %03-5687
1249)
The Wilsons Promontory Bus Service operates from Foster to Tidal River (via Fish Creek) on Friday at 4.30pm, returning on Sunday at 4.30pm. This service connects with the V/Line bus from Melbourne at Fish Creek.
Lakes District
The Gippsland Lakes form the largest inland waterway system in Australia, with the three main interconnecting lakes – Wellington, King and Victoria – stretching from Sale to beyond Lakes Entrance. The lakes are actually saltwater lagoons, separated from the ocean by the Gippsland Lakes Coastal Park and the narrow coastal strip of sand dunes known as Ninety Mile Beach. Apart from the beach and taking to the water, the highlights here involve hanging out at the pretty seaside communities.
Sale
Pop 12,766
Gateway to the Lakes District, Sale is an important regional centre with little charm of its own – stay here only if you find yourself stuck on your way elsewhere.
1Sights
Port of SalePORT
The Port of Sale is a redeveloped marina area in the town centre with boardwalks, cafes and a canal leading out to the Gippsland Lakes.
4Sleeping & Eating
Cambrai HostelHOSTEL
(%03-5147
1600; www.maffra.net.au/hostel;
117 Johnson St; dm per
night/week $28/160;
i)
In Maffra, 16km north of Sale, this relaxed hostel is a budget haven and one of the few true backpackers in Gippsland. In a 120-year-old building that was once a doctor’s residence, it has a licensed bar, an open fire and a pool table in the cosy lounge, a tiny self-catering kitchen and clean, cheerful rooms.
The owners can sometimes arrange work in the region.
Quest Serviced ApartmentsAPARTMENT
(%03-5142
0900; www.questapartments.com.au;
180-184 York St; studio/1-bedroom/2-bedroom apt
$120/205/285;
aW
s)
This reliable chain offers modern, self-contained apartments that feel more luxurious than you'd expect for these prices. As such it's streets ahead of most other motels around town.
Mister RaymondCAFE
(%03-5144
4007; 268-270 Raymond St; mains
$14-28; h8am-4pm
Tue-Thu, Sat & Sun, to 9pm Fri)
Breakfast, brunch or lunch at Mister Raymond is Sale's best choice, with pulled-pork or soft-shell-crab tacos and other fresh tastes in a slick cafe environment. We prefer the indoor tables but you can also sit out on the footpath.
WORTH A TRIP
BAW BAW NATIONAL PARK
Baw Baw National Park, an offshoot of the Great Dividing Range, is the southernmost region of Victoria’s High Country. The Baw Baw Plateau and the forested valleys of the Thomson and Aberfeldy Rivers are wonderful places for bushwalking, with marked tracks through subalpine vegetation, ranging from open eucalypt stands to wet gullies and tall forests on the plateau. The highest points are Mt St Phillack (1566m) and Mt Baw Baw (1564m). The higher sections of the park are snow-covered in winter, when everyone heads for Baw Baw Village ski resort and the Mt St Gwinear cross-country skiing area. Quiet back roads (and the Australian Alps Walking Track) connect this region with Walhalla.
Mt Baw Baw Alpine Resort Management BoardTOURIST INFORMATION
(%03-5165
1136; www.mountbawbaw.com.au;
h8.30am-7.30pm
Sat-Thu, to 9.30pm Fri ski season, 9am-5pm rest of
year)
In the centre of the village, this office provides general tourist information and an accommodation service.
8Information
Wellington Visitor Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(%03-5144
1108; www.tourismwellington.com.au;
8 Foster St; h9am-5pm)
Internet facilities and a free accommodation-booking service.
8Getting There & Away
Sale lies along the Princes Hwy, 214km from Melbourne.
V/LineTRAIN, BUS
(%13 61
96; www.vline.com.au)
Train and train-bus services between Melbourne and Sale ($25, three hours, four daily), sometimes with a change in Traralgon.
Ninety Mile Beach
To paraphrase the immortal words of Crocodile Dundee…that’s not a beach, this is a beach. Isolated Ninety Mile Beach is a narrow strip of sand backed by dunes, featuring lagoons and stretching unbroken for more or less 90 miles (150km) from near McLoughlins Beach to the channel at Lakes Entrance. The area is great for surf fishing, camping and long beach walks, though the crashing surf can be dangerous for swimming, except where patrolled at Seaspray, Woodside Beach and Lakes Entrance.
The main access road to Ninety Mile Beach is the South Gippsland Hwy from Sale or Foster, turning off to Seaspray, Golden Beach and Loch Sport.
WORTH A TRIP
RAYMOND ISLAND
For one of the best places in Victoria to see koalas, drop down off the Princes Hwy to the relaxed lakeside town of Paynesville. Although agreeable in its own right, Paynesville is the port for a five-minute ferry crossing to Raymond Island. There’s a large colony of koalas here, mostly relocated from Phillip Island in the 1950s. The flat-bottom car-and-passenger ferry operates every half-hour from 7am to 11pm and is free for pedestrians and cyclists. Cars and motorcycles cost $10.
Paynesville is 16km south of Bairnsdale along the C604.
Metung
Pop 1010
Curling around Bancroft Bay, little Metung is one of the prettiest towns in the Lakes District. Besotted locals call it the Gippsland Riviera, and with its absolute waterfront location and unhurried charm, it’s hard to argue.
2Activities
Riviera NauticBOATING
(%03-5156
2243; www.rivieranautic.com.au;
185 Metung Rd; yachts &
cruisers for 3 days from $1056)
Getting out on the water is easy enough: Riviera Nautic hires out boats and yachts for cruising, fishing and sailing on the Gippsland Lakes.
4Sleeping & Eating
Metung Holiday VillasCABIN
(%03-5156
2306; www.metungholidayvillas.com;
cnr Mairburn & Stirling
Rds; cabins $150-240; as)
Metung’s former caravan park has reinvented itself as a mini village of semi-luxury cabins and is one of the best deals in town.
Moorings at MetungAPARTMENT
(%03-5156
2750; www.themoorings.com.au;
44 Metung Rd; apt
$150-390; aWs)
At the end of the road in Metung, and with water views to either Lake King or Bancroft Bay, this contemporary complex has a range of apartments from spacious studios to two-bedroom, split-level town houses. The complex has a tennis court, indoor and outdoor pools, spa and marina. Outside the peak season it’s good value.
oMetung
GalleyCAFE
(%03-5156
2330; www.themetunggalley.com.au;
50 Metung Rd; lunch mains
$10-22, dinner mains $19-35; h8am-4pm Tue,
to late Wed-Fri, 7.30am-late Sat, 7.30am-4pm Sun)
Felicity and Richard’s city hospitality experience shines through in this friendly, innovative cafe. It serves up beautifully presented, quality food using local ingredients such as fresh seafood and Gippsland lamb (try the lamb 'cigars' with tzatziki).
Metung HotelPUB FOOD
(%03-5156
2206; www.metunghotel.com.au;
1 Kurnai Ave; mains
$25-36; hnoon-2pm
& 6-8pm)
You can’t beat the location overlooking Metung Wharf, and the big windows and outdoor timber decking make the most of the water views. The bistro serves top-notch pub food with a focus on fresh local seafood. The hotel also has the cheapest rooms in town ($85).
8Information
Metung Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(%03-5156
2969; www.metungtourism.com.au;
3/50 Metung Rd; h9am-5pm)
Accommodation-booking and boat-hire services.
8Getting There & Away
Metung lies south of the Princes Hwy along the C606; the turn off is signposted at Swan Reach. The nearest major towns are Bairnsdale (28km) and Lakes Entrance (24km). The nearest inter-city rail services are at Bairnsdale.
Lakes Entrance
Pop 5965
With the shallow Cunninghame Arm waterway separating the town from the crashing ocean beaches, Lakes Entrance basks in an undeniably pretty location, but in holiday season it’s a packed-out tourist town with a graceless strip of motels, caravan parks, mini-golf courses and souvenir shops lining the Esplanade. Still, the bobbing fishing boats, fresh seafood, endless beaches and cruises out to Metung and Wyanga Park Winery should win you over.
1Sights & Activities
Lakes Entrance is all about the beach and boating. A long footbridge crosses the Cunninghame Arm inlet from the east of town to the ocean and Ninety Mile Beach. This is also where the Eastern Beach Walking Track (2.3km, 45 minutes) starts, taking you through coastal scrub to the entrance itself.
Surf ShackSURFING
(
GOOGLE MAP ;
%03-5155
4933; www.surfshack.com.au;
507 Esplanade; 2hr lesson
$50)
Surfing lessons (gear provided) are run by the Surf Shack at nearby Lake Tyers Beach, around 10km from Lakes Entrance.
TTours
Peels Lake CruisesCRUISE
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5155 1246,
0409 946 292;
www.peelscruises.com.au;
Post Office Jetty; 4hr Metung
lunch cruise adult/child $60/18, 2½hr cruise $45; h11am Tue-Sun,
2pm Tue-Thu & Sat)
This long-running operator has daily lunch cruises aboard the Stormbird to Metung and 2½-hour cruises on the Thunderbird.
Sea SafariCRUISE
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %0458 511
438; www.lakes-explorer.com.au;
Post Office Jetty; 1/2hr cruise
$15/25)
S
These safaris aboard the Lakes Explorer have a focus on research and ecology, identifying and counting seabirds, testing water for salinity levels and learning about marine life.
4Sleeping
Eastern Beach Tourist ParkCARAVAN PARK
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5155
1581; www.easternbeach.com.au;
42 Eastern Beach Rd; unpowered/powered sites from $27/32, cabins
$110-300; iWs
#)
Most caravan parks in Lakes pack 'em in, but this one has space, grassy sites and a great location away from the hubbub of town, in a bush setting back from Eastern Beach. A walking track takes you into town (30 minutes). New facilities are excellent, including a camp kitchen, barbecues and a kids' playground.
Kalimna WoodsCOTTAGE
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5155
1957; www.kalimnawoods.com.au;
Kalimna Jetty Rd; d
$99-170; a)
Retreat 2km from the town centre to Kalimna Woods, set in a large rainforest-and-bush garden, complete with friendly resident possums and birds. These self-contained country-style cottages with either spa or wood-burning fireplace are spacious, private and cosy.
Bellevue on the LakesHOTEL
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5155
3055; www.bellevuelakes.com;
201 Esplanade; d from $179,
2-bedroom apt from $284;
aWs)
Right in the heart of the Esplanade, Bellevue brings a bit of style to the strip with neatly furnished rooms in earthy tones, most with water views. For extra luxury, go for the spacious spa suites or two-bedroom self-contained apartments.
5Eating
Six Sisters & A PigeonCAFE
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5155
1144; 567 Esplanade; mains
$9-19; h7am-3pm
Tue-Sun; 
v)
The name alone should guide you to this quirky, licensed cafe on the Esplanade, opposite the footbridge. Good coffee, all-day breakfasts – Mexican eggs, French toast or Spanish omelettes – lunches of focaccias and baguettes, and light mains with an Asian-Italian influence.
oFerryman's
Seafood CafeSEAFOOD
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5155
3000; www.ferrymans.com.au;
Middle Harbour,
Esplanade; lunch mains $18-24, dinner
$21-45; h10am-late)
It’s hard to beat the ambience of dining on the deck of this floating cafe-restaurant, which will fill you to the gills with fish and seafood dishes, including good ol’ fish and chips. The seafood platter is a great order. It’s child friendly and downstairs you can buy fresh seafood, including prawns and crayfish (from 8.30am to 5pm).
Miriam's RestaurantSTEAK, SEAFOOD
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5155
3999; www.miriamsrestaurant.com.au;
cnr Esplanade & Bulmer
St; mains $24-39; h6pm-late)
The upstairs dining room at Miriam’s overlooks the Esplanade, and the Gippsland steaks, local seafood dishes and casual cocktail-bar atmosphere are excellent. Try its epic 'Greek fisherman's plate' – 500g of local seafood for $55.
8Information
Lakes Entrance Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %1800 637 060,
03-5155 1966;
www.discovereastgippsland.com.au;
cnr Princes Hwy & Marine
Pde; h9am-5pm)
Free accommodation- and tour-booking services. Also check out www.lakesentrance.com.
8Getting There & Away
Lakes Entrance lies 314km from Melbourne along the Princes Hwy.
V/LineTRAIN, BUS
(%1800 800
007; www.vline.com.au)
Runs a train-bus service from Melbourne to Lakes Entrance via Bairnsdale ($35, 4½ hours, three daily).
WORTH A TRIP
BUCHAN
The sleepy town of Buchan, in the foothills of the Snowy Mountains, is famous for the spectacular and intricate limestone cave system at the Buchan Caves Reserve. Underground rivers cutting through ancient limestone rock formed the caves and caverns, and they provided shelter for Aboriginal people at least as far back as 18,000 years ago.
Camping is possible close to the caves (book with Parks Victoria), with further accommodation in Buchan.
Buchan is an easy drive 56km north of Lakes Entrance.
Buchan CavesCAVE
(%13 19
63; www.parks.vic.gov.au;
tours adult/child/family
$20.90/12.20/57.50, 2 caves $31.20/18.10/85.80; htours 10am,
11.15am, 1pm, 2.15pm & 3.30pm, hr vary
seasonally)
Parks Victoria runs guided cave tours daily, alternating between Royal and Fairy Caves. They’re both impressive: Royal has more colour, a higher chamber and extinct kangaroo remains; Fairy has more delicate decorations and potential fairy sightings. The rangers also offer hard-hat guided tours to the less-developed Federal Cave during the high season.
East Gippsland & the Wilderness Coast
Beyond Lakes Entrance stretches a wilderness area of spectacular coastal national parks and old-growth forest. Much of this region has never been cleared for agriculture and contains some of the most remote and pristine national parks in the state, making logging in these ancient forests a hot issue.
Mallacoota
Pop 1031
One of Gippsland’s, and indeed Victoria’s, little gems, Mallacoota is the state’s most easterly town, snuggled on the vast Mallacoota Inlet and surrounded by the tumbling hills and beachside dunes of beautiful Croajingolong National Park. Those prepared to come this far are treated to long, empty, ocean-surf beaches, tidal estuaries and swimming, fishing and boating on the inlet.
1Sights & Activities
The calm estuarine waters of Mallacoota Inlet have more than 300km of shoreline – hiring a boat is the best way to explore, with plenty of great walks along the water's edge.
For good surf, head to Bastion Point or Tip Beach. There’s swimmable surf and some sheltered water at Betka Beach, which is patrolled during Christmas school holidays. There are also good swimming spots along the beaches of the foreshore reserve, at Bastion Point and Quarry Beach.
Mallacoota Hire BoatsBOATING
(%03-5158 0704,
0438 447 558;
Main Wharf, cnr Allan & Buckland
Drs; motor boats per 2/4/6hr
$60/100/140)
Mallacoota Hire Boats is centrally located and hires out canoes and boats. No licence required; cash only.
WORTH A TRIP
GABO ISLAND
On Gabo Island, 14km offshore from Mallacoota, the windswept 154-hectare Gabo Island Lightstation Reserve is home to seabirds and one of the world’s largest colonies of little penguins – far outnumbering those at Phillip Island. Whales, dolphins and fur seals are regularly sighted offshore. The island has an operating lighthouse, built in 1862 and the tallest in the southern hemisphere.
Activities
Wilderness Coast Ocean ChartersBOATING
(%03-5158 0701,
0417 398 068)
Runs day trips to Gabo Island ($75, minimum eight people; $75 each way if you stay overnight) and may run trips down the coast to view the seal colony off Wingan Inlet if there’s enough demand.
Sleeping
oGabo Island
LighthouseCOTTAGE
(%03-5161 9500,
Parks Victoria 13 19 63;
www.parkweb.vic.gov.au;
up to 8 people
$315-350)
For a truly wild experience head out to stay at this remote lighthouse. Accommodation is available in the three-bedroom assistant lighthouse keeper’s residence. There’s a two-night minimum stay and a ballot for use during the Christmas and Easter holidays.
TTours
MV Loch-ArdCRUISE
(%03-5158
0764; Main Wharf; adult/child
2hr cruise $35/15)
Runs several inlet cruises, including wildlife spotting and a twilight cruise.
4Sleeping
Mallacoota Foreshore Holiday ParkCARAVAN PARK
(%03-5158
0300; cnr Allan Dr & Maurice Ave; unpowered
sites $21-30, powered $27-40; W)
Curling around the waterfront, the grassy sites here morph into one of Victoria’s most sociable and scenic caravan parks, with sublime views of the inlet and its resident population of black swans and pelicans. No cabins, but the best of Mallacoota’s many parks for campers.
oAdobe Mudbrick
FlatsAPARTMENT
(%03-5158 0329,
0409 580 0329;
www.adobeholidayflats.com.au;
17 Karbeethong Ave; d $80, q
$95-180)S
A labour of love by Margaret and Peter Kurz, these unique mud-brick flats in Karbeethong are something special. With an emphasis on recycling and eco-friendliness, the flats have solar hot water and guests are encouraged to compost their kitchen scraps. The array of whimsical apartments are comfortable, well equipped and cheap.
Karbeethong LodgeGUESTHOUSE
(%03-5158
0411; www.karbeethonglodge.com.au;
16 Schnapper Point
Dr; d $110-220)
It’s hard not to be overcome by a sense of serenity as you rest on the broad verandahs of this early 1900s timber guesthouse, which gives uninterrupted views over Mallacoota Inlet. The large guest lounge and dining room have an open fire and period furnishings, there’s a mammoth kitchen and the pastel-toned bedrooms are small but tastefully decorated.
EAST GIPPSLAND NATIONAL PARKS
The far eastern reaches of Gippsland are home to some of Victoria's most appealing national parks, protecting rugged coastal wilderness to the deep forests of the interior. For information on camping grounds and walking tracks, visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au.
Snowy River National Park Dominated by deep gorges carved through limestone and sandstone by the Snowy River on its route from the Snowy Mountains in New South Wales (NSW) to its mouth at Marlo. The entire park is a smorgasbord of unspoilt, superb bush and mountain scenery.
Errinundra National Park Contains Victoria’s largest cool-temperate rainforest and is one of east Gippsland’s most outstanding natural areas. Its three granite outcrops extend into the cloud, resulting in high rainfall, deep, fertile soils, abundant wildlife and a network of creeks and rivers that flow north, south and east. Bushfires in early 2014 left the park scarred and some tracks were closed at the time of research.
Croajingolong National Park One of Australia’s finest coastal wilderness national parks, stretching for about 100km from the town of Bemm River to the NSW border. Magnificent, unspoilt beaches, inlets, estuaries and forests make it an ideal park for camping, walking, swimming and surfing. Point Hicks was the first part of Australia to be spotted by Captain Cook and the Endeavour crew in 1770.
Cape Conran Coastal Park This blissfully undeveloped part of the coast is one of Gippsland’s most beautiful corners, with long stretches of remote white-sand beaches. The 19km coastal route from Marlo to Cape Conran is particularly pretty, bordered by banksia trees, grass plains, sand dunes and the ocean.
5Eating & Drinking
oLucy'sASIAN
(%03-5158
466; 64 Maurice Ave; mains
$10-23; h8am-8pm)
Lucy’s is popular for delicious and great-value homemade rice noodles with chicken, prawn or abalone, as well as dumplings stuffed with ingredients from the garden. It’s also good for breakfast.
Mallacoota HotelPUB FOOD
(%03-5158
0455; www.mallacootahotel.com.au;
51-55 Maurice Ave; mains
$17-33; hnoon-2pm
& 6-8pm)
The local pub bistro serves hearty meals from its varied menu, with reliable favourites such as chicken Parmigiana and Gippsland steak. Bands play regularly in the summer.
8Information
Mallacoota Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(%03-5158
0800; www.visitmallacoota.com.au;
Main Wharf, cnr Allan & Buckland
Dr; h10am-4pm)
In a small shed on the main wharf and operated by friendly volunteers. Opening hours may vary.
8Getting There & Away
Mallacoota is 23km southeast of Genoa (on the Princes Hwy), which is 492km from Melbourne. Take the train to Bairnsdale (3¾ hours), then the V/Line bus to Genoa ($45.20, 3½ hours, one daily). The Mallacoota–Genoa bus meets the V/Line coach on Monday, Thursday and Friday, plus Sunday during school holidays, and runs to Mallacoota ($4.70, 30 minutes).