Central Brisbane

icon-top-choiceoSuper WhatnotBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.superwhatnot.com; 48 Burnett La; icon-hoursgifh3-11pm Mon-Thu, noon-1am Fri, 3pm-1am Sat, 3-8pm Sun)

Trailblazing Super Whatnot is a funky, industrial laneway space, with a mezzanine floor and sunken lounge. Drinks: bottled boutique Australian beers and cocktails (try the authoritarian Border Control). Food: American-inspired bar snacks (hot dogs, mini burritos, nachos). Tunes: vinyl DJs Thursday to Saturday spinning funk, soul and hip hop; regular live acoustic acts. Winning combo!

Riverbar & KitchenBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.riverbarandkitchen.com.au; 71 Eagle St; icon-hoursgifh7am-11.30pm)

A chilled-out spot for an afternoon ale, down by the brown Brisbane River at the base of the Eagle St Pier complex. Decked-out like a boat shed, with coiled ropes, white-painted timber and woody booths, the vibe is casual, breezy and free-flowing (like the river itself). Good food too.

NantBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.nant.com.au; 2 Edward St; icon-hoursgifh3pm-late Tue-Sat)

A stylish new speakeasy showcasing Nant whisky – super-duper single malt from Tasmania's central highlands. Also on offer are bourbons, ryes and Prohibition-style gins: taste a few too many, then wobble into the City Botanic Gardens to look for bats. Leather couches, high ceilings, affable bar staff and regular live music.

Embassy HotelPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.embassybar.com.au; 214 Elizabeth St; icon-hoursgifh11am-10pm Mon-Wed, 11am-late Fri, noon-late Sat)

This 1928-built boozer has experienced a lot of reincarnations over the years, the latest one involving craft beer, pressed-tin wall panels, exposed red brickwork and killer steak sandwiches. Expect plenty of backpackers on the loose from the hostel upstairs.

Kangaroo Point

Story Bridge HotelPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.storybridgehotel.com.au; 200 Main St, Kangaroo Point; icon-hoursgifh9am-late)

Beneath the bridge at Kangaroo Point, this beautiful 1886 pub and beer garden is perfect for a pint after a long day exploring. Live jazz on Sundays (from 3pm); lots of different drinking and eating areas.

South Bank

Tomahawk BarBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.tomahawkbar.com.au; 5/182 Grey St; icon-hoursgifh11am-10pm Sun, Tue & Wed, to 11pm Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat)

The coolest place for a beer in South Bank, hands down. Laid-back, beardy bar staff pour craft beers and organic ciders, with lots of Danish, American and a single Kiwi offering in the taps. Bar snacks are a hit too: pork-belly burgers, baked discs of Camembert and fish-stick butties.

Fortitude Valley

icon-top-choiceoAlfred & ConstanceBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.alfredandconstance.com.au; 130 Constance St, Fortitude Valley; icon-hoursgifh7am-late Mon-Fri, 8am-late Sat & Sun)

Wow! Fabulously eccentric A&C occupies two old weatherboard houses away from the main Valley action. Inside, fluoro-clad ditch diggers, tattooed lesbians, suits and surfies roam between the tiki bar, rooftop terrace, cafe area and lounge rooms checking out the interior design: chandeliers, skeletons, surfboards, old hi-fi equipment… It's weird, and very wonderful.

Sabotage SocialBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.sabotagesocial.com.au; cnr Gipps & Wickham Sts, Fortitude Valley)

Whisky is the flavour of the month in Brisbane (or maybe the year), with a crop of whisky-wizened bars popping up around town. This one is a good 'un, with cherry-red chesterfields, gilded walls, a '90s-heavy playlist and an ace beer (or rather, whisky) garden.

BoweryCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/thebowerybar; 676 Ann St, Fortitude Valley; icon-hoursgifh5pm-late Tue-Sun)

The exposed-brick walls, gilded mirrors, booths and foot-worn floorboards at this long, narrow bar bring a touch of substance to the Valley fray. The cocktails and wine list are top-notch (and priced accordingly), and there’s live jazz/dub Tuesday to Thursday. DJs spin on weekends.

Press ClubCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.pressclub.net.au; 339 Brunswick St, Fortitude Valley; icon-hoursgifh7pm-late Tue-Thu, 6pm-late Fri-Sun)

Amber hues, leather sofas, ottomans, glowing chandeliers, fabric-covered lanterns… It’s all rather glamorously Moroccan here (with a touch of that kooky cantina from Star Wars). Live music on Thursdays (jazz, funk, rockabilly) and DJs on weekends.

CloudlandCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.katarzyna.com.au/venues/cloudland; 641 Ann St, Fortitude Valley; icon-hoursgifh5pm-late Mon & Tue, 11.30am-late Wed-Sun)

Like stepping into a surreal cloud forest, this multilevel club has a huge plant-filled lobby with a retractable glass roof, vast chandeliers and wrought-iron birdcagelike nooks. Even if you’re not a clubber, peek through the windows during the day: the interior design is astonishing!

Oh HelloCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.ohhello.com.au; 621 Ann St, Fortitude Valley; icon-hoursgifh9pm-5am Thu-Sun)

Oh hello! Fancy seeing you here. This convivial club is perfect if you like the idea of clubbing but find the reality a bit deflating. It’s unpretentious (you can wear a T-shirt), there’s a great selection of craft beers, and the cool kids here don’t think too highly of themselves.

FamilyCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.thefamily.com.au; 8 McLachlan St, Fortitude Valley; icon-hoursgifh9pm-5am Fri-Sun)

Queue up for one of Brisbane’s biggest and best clubs. The music here is phenomenal, pumping through four levels with myriad dance floors, bars, funky themed booths and elite DJs from home and away. The 'Fluffy' gay dance party happens on Sundays.

ChurchCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.thechurchnightclub.com.au; 25 Warner St, Fortitude Valley; icon-hoursgifh9pm-5am Fri & Sat)

Feel like swinging a hip? This bedeviled, black-painted holy house on a Valley sidestreet is home to the Magic City Superclub, an unfettered dance fest held on Friday and Saturday nights.

Beat MegaClubCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.thebeatmegaclub.com.au; 677 Ann St, Fortitude Valley; icon-hoursgifh9pm-5am Mon & Tue, 8pm-5am Wed-Sun)

Five rooms + seven bars + three chill-out areas + hard house/electro/retro/techno beats = the perfect storm for dance junkies. It’s big with the gay and lesbian crowd, with regular drag performances.

New Farm

Bar AltoBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.baralto.com.au; Brisbane Powerhouse, 119 Lamington St, New Farm; icon-hoursgifh11am-late Tue-Sun)

At the arts-loving Brisbane Powerhouse, this snappy upstairs bar/restaurant has an enormous balcony with chunky timber tables overlooking the river – a mighty fine vantage point any time of day. There's a devastatingly good wine list and marvellous food.

Gertie’s Bar & LoungeWINE BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 699 Brunswick St, New Farm; icon-hoursgifh4pm-midnight Tue-Fri, 3pm-midnight Sat, 2pm-midnight Sun)

A sophisticated affair, Gertie’s always seems to have groups of good-looking city girls sipping cocktails inside the fold-back windows. Even without the eye-candy, Gertie's – moodily lit, with old soul on the stereo and retro photos on the walls – is a great place for a low-key drink, or a bowl of pasta and a glass of wine.

Bitter SuiteBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.bittersuite.com.au; 75 Welsby St, New Farm; icon-hoursgifh11.30am-11pm Tue-Thu, to 11.30pm Fri, 8am-11.30pm Sat, 8am-10pm Sun)

This lofty old red-brick warehouse on a quiet New Farm backstreet has been reborn as an effervescent beer barn, with 60-plus craft beers available, a daily selection of which flows through eight taps. Super bar food too (Peking duck pancakes) and weekend breakfasts (beer, anyone?).

West End

icon-top-choiceoArchive Beer BoutiqueBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.archivebeerboutique.com.au; 100 Boundary St, West End; icon-hoursgifh11am-late)

Interesting beer, interesting people, interesting place: welcome to Archive, a temple of beer with many a fine frothy on tap (try the Holgate Cowboy Sour Porter). Check the bar made of books! Oh, and the food’s good, too (steaks, mussels, pasta). Upstairs is Loft West End ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.loftwestend.com; 100 Boundary St, West End; icon-hoursgifh4pm-late Wed-Sat), a sassy cocktail bar and food room.

EndBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.73vulture.com; 1/73 Vulture St, West End; icon-hoursgifh3pm-midnight)

This mod-industrial shopfront conversion is a real locals’ hang-out, with hipsters, cheese boards, Morrissey on the turntable, DJs and live acoustic troubadours. The Blackstar mocha stout (caffeine courtesy of the local roaster) will cheer up your rainy river afternoon.

Lychee LoungeCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.lycheelounge.com.au; 94 Boundary St, West End; icon-hoursgifh3pm-midnight Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat)

Sink into the lush furniture and stare up at the macabre doll-head chandeliers at this exotic Asian lounge bar, with mellow beats, mood lighting and an open frontage to Boundary St. Is this what a real opium den looks like?

Petrie Terrace

Statler & WaldorfBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.statlerandwaldorf.co; 25 Caxton St, Petrie Terrace; icon-hoursgifh11am-midnight Wed-Sun)

Remember those two cynical old critics from The Muppet Show? They leer down from a painting above the fireplace at this atmospheric booze room, which has given the otherwise trashy Caxton St a much-needed lift. Expect old floorboards, craft beers, cocktails, Scotch appreciation sessions and good conversation.

CabiriaBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cabiria.com.au; 6 The Barracks, 61 Petrie Tce, Petrie Terrace; icon-hoursgifh7am-3pm Mon, 7am-late Tue-Fri, 4pm-late Sat)

Brisbane’s old police barracks have been converted into a complex of quality bars and eateries, the pick of which is cool Cabiria. It’s a skinny, dimly lit, moody room with big mirrors and shimmering racks of booze (35 different tequilas!). Awesome New York–style sandwiches, too.

Paddington

Kettle & TinBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.kettleandtin.com.au; 215 Given Tce, Paddington; icon-hoursgifh7am-5pm Mon, to late Tue-Sun)

The chalkboard out the front of this cool cafe-bar grabbed our attention: 'We serve beer and whiskey, because no great story ever started with a salad'. The food here is terrific too (and terrifically calorific: try the confit duck nachos or pork-belly fries). Live acoustic music Sunday afternoons.

Dowse BarBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/dowsebar; cnr Given Tce & Dowse St, Paddington; icon-hoursgifh4pm-late Thu-Sun)

Tucked underneath the bigger, flashier Iceworks bar, Dowse Bar is an intimate, retro-quirky booze room that brings a bit of bearded student/hipster vibe to Paddington. Live acoustic acts croon to the crowd, who sit on old couches among wacky lamps and murals.

3Entertainment

Most big-ticket international bands have Brisbane on their radar, and the city’s nightclubs regularly attract top-class DJs. Theatres, cinemas and other performing-arts venues are among Australia’s biggest and best.

Free entertainment street-press includes the Music (www.themusic.com.au) and Scene (www.scenemagazine.com.au). Q News (www.qnews.com.au) covers the gay and lesbian scene. The Courier-Mail (www.news.com.au/couriermail) newspaper has arts and entertainment listings (and too much rugby), or check the Brisbane Times (www.brisbanetimes.com.au).

Ticketek ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%13 28 49; www.ticketek.com.au; cnr Elizabeth & George Sts; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Fri) is a central booking agency that handles major events, sports and performances. Try Qtix (icon-phonegif%13 62 46; www.qtix.com.au) for loftier arts performances.

Live Music

BrightsideLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.thebrightsidebrisbane.com.au; 27 Warner St, Fortitude Valley; icon-hoursgifh8pm-late Thu-Sat)

The foundation stone of this 1906 church says 'To the glory of God'. But it's the god of live alternative rock the faithful are here to worship these days: heavy, impassioned, unhinged and unfailingly loud. Just like 1991, minus the cigarettes.

Lock 'n' LoadLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.locknloadbistro.com.au; 142 Boundary St, West End; icon-hoursgifh10am-late Mon-Fri, 7am-late Sat & Sun; icon-wifigifW)

This ebullient, woody, two-storey gastropub lures an upbeat crowd of music fans. Bands play the small front stage (jazz and originals). Catch a gig, then show up for breakfast the next morning (the potato and ham-hock hash-cakes go well with hangovers).

Hi-FiLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.thehifi.com.au; 125 Boundary St, West End; icon-hoursgifh gig nights 8pm-late)

This mod, minimalist rock room has unobstructed sight lines and a great line-up of local and international talent (Sepultura, Kingswood, Violent Soho...). Retro Vinyl bar is out the front.

CrowbarLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/crowbarbrisbane; 243 Brunswick St, Fortitude Valley; icon-hoursgifhgig nights 8pm-late)

A haven of metal, hardcore and punk: black-clad musos of menace from around Australia, the US and UK, in-your-face and unrelenting.

ZooLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.thezoo.com.au; 711 Ann St, Fortitude Valley; icon-hoursgifh7pm-late Wed-Sun)icon-sustainableS

Going strong since 1992, the Zoo has surrendered a bit of musical territory to the Hi-Fi and Brightside, but is still a grungy spot for indie rock, hip-hop, acoustic, reggae and electronic acts (lots of raw local talent).

Brisbane Jazz ClubJAZZ

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3391 2006; www.brisbanejazzclub.com.au; 1 Annie St, Kangaroo Point; $15-25; icon-hoursgifh6.30-11pm Thu-Sat, 5-10pm Sun)

Straight out of the bayou, this tiny riverside jazz shack has been Brisbane’s jazz beacon since 1972. Anyone who’s anyone in the scene plays here when they’re in town.

Brisbane Convention & Exhibition CentreLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.bcec.com.au; cnr Merivale & Glenelg Sts, South Bank)

When the big guns are in town (Nick Cave, Bob Dylan) they rock this 8000-seat auditorium in South Bank.

Cinemas

Palace BarracksCINEMA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.palacecinemas.com.au; 61 Petrie Tce, Petrie Terrace; adult/child $18.50/13; icon-hoursgifh9am-late)

Near Roma St Station in the Barracks Centre, the plush, six-screen Palace Barracks shows Hollywood and alternative fare, and has a bar.

Moonlight CinemaCINEMA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.moonlight.com.au; Brisbane Powerhouse, 119 Lamington Rd, New Farm; adult/child $16/12; icon-hoursgifh7pm Wed-Sun)

Next to the Brisbane Powerhouse, New Farm Park hosts al fresco cinema between December and February at the Moonlight Cinema. Arrive early to get a spot.

Palace CentroCINEMA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.palacecinemas.com.au; 39 James St, Fortitude Valley; adult/child $17.50/13; icon-hoursgifh10am-late)

Screens art-house films and hosts a French film festival in March/April, and a Scandinavian film fest in July.

Performing Arts & Comedy

Brisbane PowerhousePERFORMING ARTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.brisbanepowerhouse.org; 119 Lamington St, New Farm)

Nationally and internationally acclaimed theatre, music, comedy, dance… There are loads of happenings at the Powerhouse – many free – and the venue, with its cool bars and restaurants, enjoys a charismatic setting overlooking the Brisbane River.

Judith Wright Centre of Contemporary ArtsPERFORMING ARTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.judithwrightcentre.com; 420 Brunswick St, Fortitude Valley; icon-hoursgifhbox office 9am-4pm Mon-Fri; icon-wifigifW)

A medium-sized creative space (300 seats max) for cutting-edge performances: contemporary dance and world music, Indigenous theatre, circus and visual arts.

Metro Arts CentreTHEATRE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.metroarts.com.au; Level 2, 109 Edward St; icon-hoursgifhperformances vary, gallery 10am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 2-4.30pm Sat)

This arty downtown venue hosts community theatre, local dramatic pieces, dance and art shows. It’s an effervescent spot for a taste of Brisbane’s creative talent, be it offbeat, quirky, fringe, progressive or just downright weird. Artists and performers give free evening talks on the first Friday of every month.

Queensland Performing Arts CentrePERFORMING ARTS

(QPAC; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.qpac.com.au; Queensland Cultural Centre, cnr Grey & Melbourne Sts, South Bank; icon-hoursgifhbox office 9am-8.30pm Mon-Sat)

Brisbane’s main high-arts performance centre comprises three venues and features concerts, plays, dance and performances of all genres: anything from flamenco to Broadway musicals and the American Ballet Theatre.

Queensland ConservatoriumOPERA, LIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.griffith.edu.au/music/queensland-conservatorium; 140 Grey St, South Bank; icon-hoursgifhbox office 7am-10pm Mon-Fri, 8am-6pm Sat & Sun)

Part of Griffith University, the conservatorium hosts opera, as well as touring artists playing classical, jazz, rock and world music. Many concerts are free.

Paddo TavernCOMEDY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.standup.com.au; 186 Given Tce, Paddington; icon-hoursgifh10am-late)

If a car wash married its supermarket cousin, their first-born would probably look like this ugly Paddington pub, which has incongruously adopted a Wild West theme inside (Stetsons, saddle seats, old rifles on the wall). But it's one of the best places in Brisbane to see stand-up comedy: check the website for listings.

Sport

Like most other Australians, Brisbanites are sports-mad. You can catch interstate and international cricket at the Gabba (Brisbane Cricket Ground; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.thegabba.com.au; 411 Vulture St, Woolloongabba), south of Kangaroo Point. The cricket season runs from October to March: if you’re new to the game, try and get along to a Twenty20 match – cricket at its most explosive.

The Gabba is also the home ground for the Brisbane Lions, an Australian Football League (AFL; www.afl.com.au) team which dominated the league in the early 2000s (lately, not so much). Watch them in action, often at night under lights, between April and September.

Rugby league is also a massive spectator sport in Brizzy. The Brisbane Broncos, part of the National Rugby League (NRL; www.nrl.com.au)competition, play home games over winter at Suncorp Stadium ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.suncorpstadium.com.au; 40 Castlemaine St, Milton) in Milton (between Petrie Terrace and Paddington). In rugby union, the Queensland Reds in the Super Rugby comp and the national Wallabies team also play at Suncorp and have strong followings.

Also calling Suncorp home are the Queensland Roar football (soccer) team, part of the A-League (www.aleague.com.au). The domestic football season lasts from August to February, and has been attracting fat crowds in recent years.

7Shopping

Brisbane is home to some fabulous riverside markets, eye-catching boutiques and galleries, plus one-of-a-kind shops – particularly around Fortitude Valley and Paddington – selling everything from indie fashions to Indigenous artwork, vintage apparel, new and used books and rare vinyl. Queen St Mall and the Myer Centre in the CBD house big chain stores, upmarket outlets and the obligatory touristy trash.

Central Brisbane

Archives Fine BooksBOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.archivesfinebooks.com.au; 40 Charlotte St; icon-hoursgifh9am-6pm Mon-Thu, to 7pm Fri, to 5pm Sat)

You could get lost in here for hours: rickety bookshelves, squeaky floorboards and (allegedly) a million second-hand books.

Mind GamesGAMES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.mindgamesbrisbane.com; Level 2, Myer Centre, Queen St Mall; icon-hoursgifh 9am-5.30pm Mon-Thu, to 9pm Fri, to 4pm Sat, 10am-4pm Sun)

Intellectual, rainy-day gaming the old-fashioned way: chess, crosswords, Rubik's cubes, mah-jong, Scrabble, 1000-piece jigsaws of the Arc de Triomphe...

Malt TradersWINE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.malttraders.com.au; 10 Market St; icon-hoursgifh10am-7pm Mon & Tue, to 8pm Wed, to 9pm Fri, noon-7pm Sat)

The best little bottleshop in the CBD, these guys zoom-in on single-malt whiskys, organic cider, single-vineyard wines and craft beers. 'Explore, indulge, entertain.'

Record ExchangeMUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.therecordexchange.com.au; Level 1, 65 Adelaide St; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm)

This warrenlike, upstairs shop is home to an astounding collection of vinyl, CDs, DVDs, posters and other rock memorabilia. ‘Brisbane’s most interesting shop’ (self-professed).

South Bank

TitleBOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.titlestore.com.au; 1/133 Grey St; icon-hoursgifh10am-6pm)

Offbeat and alternative art, music, photography and cinema books, plus vinyl, CDs and DVDs – a quality dose of subversive rebelliousness (just what South Bank needs!). Pick up that Woody Guthrie 100th-birthday Centennial Collection you've had your eye on.

TO MARKET, TO MARKET

Jan Powers Farmers Market ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.janpowersfarmersmarkets.com.au; Brisbane Powerhouse, 119 Lamington St, New Farm; icon-hoursgifh6am-noon 2nd & 4th Sat of month) Fancy some purple heirloom carrots or blue bananas? This fab farmers market, with around 120 stalls, coughs up some unusual produce. Also great for more predictably coloured flowers, cheeses, coffee and fish. The CityCat ferry takes you straight there.

Davies Park Market ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.daviesparkmarket.com.au; Davies Park, West End; icon-hoursgifh6am-2pm Sat) Under a grove of huge Moreton Bay fig trees in the West End, this hippie riverside market features organic foods, gourmet breakfasts, herbs and flowers, bric-a-brac and buskers.

Brisbane Valley Markets ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.brisbane-markets.com.au/brisbane-valley-markets.html; Brunswick St & Duncan St Malls, Fortitude Valley; icon-hoursgifh8am-4pm Sat, 9am-4pm Sun) These colourful markets fill the Brunswick St Mall and the Duncan St (Chinatown) Mall in Fortitude Valley with eclectic crafts, clothes, books, records, food stalls and works by budding designers.

Brisbane Riverside Markets ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.brisbane-markets.com.au/brisbane-riverside-markets.html; Eagle St Pier; icon-hoursgifh7am-4pm Sun) Hugging the river, the Sunday Riverside Markets have dozens of stalls selling glassware, handicrafts, art, juices and snacks, and there are live tunes. The CityCat ferry stop is just a couple of inches away.

Boundary Street Markets ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.boundarystreetmarkets.com.au; cnr Boundary & Mollison Sts, West End; icon-hoursgifh4-10pm Fri, 9am-3pm Sat & Sun) Set in and around a former ice-cream factory, these bohemian markets feature pop-up shops, buskers, food vans, vintage gear and quirky folks (West End at its best), plus live bands at the Motor Room.

Fortitude Valley

Trash MonkeyCLOTHING, ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.trashmonkey.com.au; 9/8 Duncan St, Fortitude Valley; icon-hoursgifh10am-7pm Mon-Wed, to 9pm Thu-Sat, to 5pm Sun)

Countercultural mayhem in the Valley! Goths, skaters, punks, alt-rockers and rockabilly rebels head here for their shoes, T-shirts, caps, nylon stockings, dress-up gear, socks, belts and beanies, much of which is spangled with tattoo-centric designs. You've been hankering after some leopard-skin brothel creepers, right?

Angelo's Fresh PastaFOOD

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.angelospasta.com.au; 22 Doggett St, Fortitude Valley; pasta around $5; icon-hoursgifh8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat)

This local company has been making pasta since 1968, and sells the stringy stuff from a little red shed in a backstreet car park. Tomato tagliatelle, duck-egg linguine, pumpkin-and-spinach cannelloni...brilliant! Look for the pallets of crushed tomato tins by the street.

Winn LaneCLOTHES, BOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.winnlane.com.au; Winn La)

Duck behind Ann St (off Winn St) and discover this arty congregation of boutiques, bookshops, jewellers and casual eats. Spangled with street art, the vibe is emerging and quirky. Don't miss Künstler ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.kunstler.com.au; 5 Winn La; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm Tue-Sat, to 3pm Sun), probably Brisbane's smallest shop, selling art and architecture books.

James StreetCLOTHES, FOOD

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.jamesst.com.au; James St, Fortitude Valley)

Fortitude Valley's fashion-fuelled underbelly (or maybe its toned six-pack) lives along a few blocks of James St under a colonnade of fig trees. High-end boutiques (Scanlan Theodore, Mimco, Kookai, Blonde Venus) bump hips with cafes and the excellent James St Market.

Blonde VenusCLOTHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.blondevenus.com.au; Shop 3, 181 Robertson St, Fortitude Valley; icon-hoursgifh10am-6pm Mon-Sat, 11am-4.30pm Sun)

One of the top boutiques in Brisbane, Blonde Venus has been around for 20-plus years, stocking a well-curated selection of both indie and couture labels.

West End

icon-top-choiceoEgg RecordsMUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.eggrecords.com.au; 79 Vulture St, West End; icon-hoursgifh9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat & Sun)

This well-organised collection of LPs, CDs and fantastically kitsch memorabilia is a must-see for anyone with even the slightest hint of 'collector' in their DNA. Loads of second-hand vinyl and CDs, plus heavy-metal T-shirts and a cavalcade of plasticky treasures featuring Doctor Who, Star Wars characters, Evel Knievel…awesome!

Avid ReaderBOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.avidreader.com.au; 193 Boundary St, West End; icon-hoursgifh8.30am-8.30pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat, to 5pm Sun)

Diverse pages, a little cafe in the corner and frequent readings and bookish events: a real West End cultural hub.

Paddington

Retro MetroCLOTHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3876 3854; www.mustdobrisbane.com; 297 Given Tce, Paddington; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm Tue-Sat, 11am-4pm Sun)

A highlight of Paddington’s boutique-lined main street, Retro Metro stocks a brilliant selection of vintage gear: cowboy boots, suits, cocktail dresses, handbags, jewellery, vinyl, '80s rock T-shirts, sunglasses, vases, ashtrays and other interesting knick-knackery. Look for the shabby old white Queenslander with vinyl records nailed to the facade.

DogstarCLOTHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.dogstar.com.au; 2 Latrobe Tce, Paddington; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat, to 3pm Sun)

There's more than a touch of Japanese style evident at this hip boutique. Beautiful fabrics and fine details feature prominently in skirts, jackets, wraps, tunics, jewellery and retro winter knits.

Paddington Antique CentreANTIQUES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3369 8088; www.paddingtonantiquecentre.com.au; 167 Latrobe Tce, Paddington; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm)

The city’s biggest antique emporium is inside a 1929 theatre, with over 50 dealers selling all manner of historic treasure/trash: clothes, jewellery, dolls, books, ‘60s Hawaiian shirts, lamps, musical instruments, toys, German WWII helmets… There's a cafe here too.

8Information

Emergency

PolicePOLICE

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%000; 200 Roma St)

Brisbane’s police HQ.

RACQTOURIST INFORMATION

(icon-phonegif%13 11 11; www.racq.com.au)

Automotive roadside assistance.

Internet Access

Brisbane Square LibraryINTERNET

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.brisbane.qld.gov.au; 266 George St; icon-hoursgifh9am-6pm Mon-Thu, to 7pm Fri, 10am-3pm Sat & Sun; icon-wifigifW)

Free wi-fi access.

Hispeed InternetINTERNET

( GOOGLE MAP ; 61 Petrie Tce, Petrie Terrace; icon-hoursgifh8am-late; icon-wifigifW)

Inside the Barracks shopping centre.

State Library of QueenslandINTERNET

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.slq.qld.gov.au; Stanley Pl, South Bank; icon-hoursgifh10am-8pm Mon-Thu, to 5pm Fri-Sun; icon-wifigifW)

Quick 30-minute terminals and free wi-fi.

Medical Services

CBD Medical CentreMEDICAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3211 3611; www.cbdmedical.com.au; Level 1, 245 Albert St; icon-hoursgifh7am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5pm Sat, 9.30am-5pm Sun)

General medical services and vaccinations.

Pharmacy on the MallMEDICAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3221 4585; www.pharmacies.com.au/pharmacy-on-the-mall; 141 Queen St; icon-hoursgifh7am-9pm Mon-Thu, to 9.30pm Fri, 8am-9pm Sat, 8.30am-6pm Sun)

Royal Brisbane & Women's HospitalHOSPITAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3646 8111; www.health.qld.gov.au/rbwh; Butterfield St, Herston)

Has a 24-hour casualty ward.

Money

American ExpressBANK

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1300 139 060; www.americanexpress.com; 260 Queen St; icon-hoursgifh8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Thu, to 5pm Fri)

Inside the Westpac bank.

TravelexBANK

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3174 1018; www.travelex.com.au; 300 Queen St; icon-hoursgifh9.30am-4pm Mon-Thu, to 5pm Fri)

Money exchange.

Post

Main post officePOST OFFICE

(GPO; GOOGLE MAP ; www.auspost.com.au; 261 Queen St; icon-hoursgifh7am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1.30pm Sat)

Tourist Information

BCC Customer CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3407 2861; www.brisbane.qld.gov.au; 266 George St; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Fri)

This Brisbane City Council centre provides info on disabled access around Brisbane. In the same building as the Brisbane Square Library.

Brisbane visitor information centreTOURIST INFORMATION

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3006 6290; www.visitbrisbane.com.au; Queen St Mall; icon-hoursgifh9am-5.30pm Mon-Thu, to 7pm Fri, to 5pm Sat, 10am-5pm Sun)

Terrific one-stop info counter for all things Brisbane.

South Bank visitor information centreTOURIST INFORMATION

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.visitsouthbank.com.au; Stanley St Plaza, South Bank; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm)

The low-down on South Bank, plus tours, accommodation and transport bookings, and tickets to entertainment events.

8Getting There & Away

The Brisbane Transit Centre – which incorporates Roma St Station – is about 500m northwest of the city centre, and is the main terminus and booking point for all long-distance buses and trains, as well as Citytrain services. Central Station is also an important hub for trains.

Air

Brisbane Airport is about 16km northeast of the city centre at Eagle Farm. It has separate international and domestic terminals about 2km apart, linked by the Airtrain, which runs every 15 to 30 minutes from 5.40am to 10pm (between terminals per adult/child $5/free). It’s a busy international arrival and departure point with frequent flights to Asia, Europe, the Pacific islands, North America and New Zealand.

Several airlines link Brisbane with the rest of the country. The main players:

Jetstar

Qantas

Tiger Air (www.virginaustralia.com)

Virgin Australia (www.virginaustralia.com)

Qantas, Virgin Australia and Jetstar all fly to towns and cities within Queensland, especially the more popular coastal destinations and the Whitsunday Islands. Tiger Airways flies between Brisbane and Melbourne, Sydney, Adelaide, Darwin and Cairns.

Skytrans (www.skytrans.com.au) is a smaller airline flying between Brisbane and regional hubs including Toowoomba, Charleville and Mt Isa.

Bus

Brisbane’s main bus terminus and booking office for long-distance buses is the Brisbane Transit Centre (Roma St Station; GOOGLE MAP ; www.brisbanetransitcentre.com.au; Roma St). Booking desks for Greyhound and Premier Motor Service (www.premierms.com.au) are here.

Approximate fares and journey times for long-haul routes include the following (although it's probably going to be just as affordable to fly, and a lot quicker!):

Destination Duration (hr) One-way fare ($)
Adelaide 62 396
Cairns 30 205
Darwin 49 418
Melbourne 36 298
Sydney 18 105
Townsville 24 285

Airport to the Gold Coast & Byron Bay

ACon-x-ion (www.con-x-ion.com) operates direct shuttle bus services from Brisbane Airport to the Gold Coast ($49). Services meet every major flight and will drop you anywhere on the Gold Coast. AA Express (www.aaexpress.com.au) buses also connect the Brisbane Transit Centre and the Gold Coast ($45).

Further south to Byron Bay, there are multiple daily buses from Brisbane airport ($54, three hours) and the Brisbane Transit Centre ($40) with Byron Easy Bus (www.byroneasybus.com.au). The Brisbane 2 Byron (www.brisbane2byron.com) bus plies the same routes for similar fares.

Airport to the Sunshine Coast

Sun-Air Bus Service (www.sunair.com.au) One of several operators with direct services from Brisbane Airport to the Sunshine Coast.

Con-x-ion (www.con-x-ion.com) Plies the same route. One-way fares start at around $40 (to the southern Sunshine Coast areas; more expensive the further north you go).

Car & Motorcycle

Brisbane has a 70km network of motorways, tunnels and bridges (some of them tolled) run by Queensland Motorways (icon-phonegif%13 33 31; www.qldmotorways.com.au). If you’re just passing through from north to south or south to north, take the Gateway Motorway (M1), which bypasses the city centre ($4.25 toll at the time of writing; see www.govia.com.au for payment options, in advance or retrospectively).

Car Rental

The major car-rental companies – Avis (www.avis.com.au), Budget (www.budget.com.au), Europcar (www.europcar.com.au), Hertz (www.hertz.com.au) and Thrifty (www.thrifty.com.au) – have offices at Brisbane Airport and in the city.

Smaller rental companies with branches near the airport (and shuttles to get you to/from there) include Ace Rental Cars ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1800 049 225; www.acerentalcars.com.au; 330 Nudgee Rd, Hendra), Apex Car Rentals ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1800 121 029; www.apexrentacar.com.au; 400 Nudgee Rd, Hendra), and East Coast Car Rentals ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%3839 9111, 1800 028 881; www.eastcoastcarrentals.com.au; 76 Wickham St, Fortitude Valley).

Train

Brisbane’s main station for long-distance trains is Roma St Station (essentially the same complex as the Brisbane Transit Centre). For reservations and information contact the Queensland Rail Travel Centre ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3235 1323, 1800 872 467; www.queenslandrail.com.au; Concourse Level, 305 Edward St; icon-hoursgifh8am-5pm Mon-Fri) at Central Station.

ANSW TrainLink Brisbane to Sydney

ASpirit of the Outback Brisbane to Longreach via Rockhampton

ASpirit of Queensland Brisbane to Cairns

ASunlander Brisbane to Cairns via Townsville

ATilt Train Brisbane to Cairns

AWestlander Brisbane to Charleville

8Getting Around

To/From the Airport

Airtrain (icon-phonegif%07-3215 5000; www.airtrain.com.au; adult/child $15/7.50) trains runs every 15 to 30 minutes, 5.40am to 10pm, from Brisbane Airport to Fortitude Valley, Central Station, Roma St Station (Brisbane Transit Centre) and other key destinations (one-way/return $16.50/31). There are also half-hourly services between the airport and Gold Coast Citytrain stops (one-way $37).

If you prefer door-to-door service, Con-x-ion (www.con-x-ion.com) runs regular shuttle buses between the airport and CBD hotels (one-way/return $20/36); it also connects Brisbane Airport to Gold Coast hotels (one-way/return $49/92).

A taxi into the centre from the airport will cost $40 to $50.

Car & Motorcycle

There is ticketed two-hour parking on many streets in the CBD and the inner suburbs. Heed the signs: Brisbane’s parking inspectors are pretty ruthless. During the day, parking is cheaper around South Bank and the West End than in the city centre, but it's free in the CBD during the evening.

A GPS unit could be your best friend: Brisbane’s streets are organically laid-out and convoluted.

Public Transport

Brisbane’s excellent public-transport network – bus, train and ferry – is run by TransLink (icon-phonegif%13 12 30; www.translink.com.au), which runs a Transit Information Centre at Roma St Station (Brisbane Transit Centre). The Brisbane visitor information centre can also help with public transport info.

AFares Buses, trains and ferries operate on a zone system: most of the inner-city suburbs are in Zone 1, which translates into a single fare of $5.20/2.60 per adult/child. If travelling into Zone 2, tickets are $6.10/3.10. A Go Card will save you some money.

ANightLink In addition to the services described in the following sections, there are also dedicated nocturnal NightLink bus, train and fixed-rate taxi services from the city and Fortitude Valley: see www.translink.com.au for details.

See CityCycle for details on Brisbane's public bike-hire network.

GO CARD

If you plan to use public transport for more than a few trips, you’ll save money by purchasing a Go Card (starting balance adult/child $10/5). Purchase the card, add credit and then use it on city buses, trains and ferries, and you’ll save more than 30% off individual fares. Go Cards are sold (and can be recharged) at transit stations and newsagents, by phone or online. See www.translink.com.au/tickets-and-fares/go-card for details.

Bus

Translink runs Brisbane's bus services, including the free City Loop and Spring Hill Loop bus services that circle the CBD and Spring Hill, stopping at key spots such as QUT, Queen Street Mall, City Botanic Gardens, Central Station and Roma Street Parkland. The loop buses run every 10 minutes on weekdays between 7am and 6pm.

The main stops for local buses are the underground Queen Street Bus Station ( GOOGLE MAP ) and King George Square Bus Station ( GOOGLE MAP ). You can also pick up many buses from the stops along Adelaide St, between George and Edward Sts.

Buses generally run every 10 to 30 minutes Monday to Friday, from 5am until about 11pm, and with the same frequency on Saturday morning (starting at 6am). Services are less frequent at other times, and cease at 9pm Sunday and at midnight on other days. CityGlider and BUZ services are high-frequency services along busy routes.

Ferry

In addition to the fast CityCat services, Translink runs Cross River Ferries, connecting Kangaroo Point with the CBD, and New Farm Park with Norman Park on the adjacent shore (and also Teneriffe and Bulimba further north). Fares/zones apply as per all other Brisbane transport.

Free (yes free!) CityHopper ferries zigzag back and forth across the water between North Quay, South Bank, the CBD, Kangaroo Point and Sydney St in New Farm. These additional services start around 6am and run until about 11pm.

Train

TransLink's fast Citytrain network has six main lines, which run as far north as Gympie on the Sunshine Coast and as far south as Varsity Lakes on the Gold Coast. All trains go through Roma St Station, Central Station and Fortitude Valley Station; there’s also a handy South Bank Station.

The Airtrain service integrates with the Citytrain network in the CBD and along the Gold Coast line.

Trains run from around 4.30am, with the last train on each line leaving Central Station between 11.30pm and midnight. On Sunday the last trains run at around 10pm.

Taxi

In the city there are taxi ranks at Roma St Station and at the top end of Edward St, by the junction with Adelaide St. You might have a tough time hailing one late at night in Fortitude Valley: there’s a rank near the corner of Brunswick St and Ann St, but expect long queues.

Black & White (icon-phonegif%13 32 22; www.blackandwhitecabs.com.au)

Yellow Cab Co (icon-phonegif%13 19 24; www.yellowcab.com.au)

Around Brisbane

North Stradbroke Island

Pop 2000

An easy 30-minute ferry chug from the Brisbane suburb of Cleveland, this unpretentious holiday isle is like Noosa and Byron Bay rolled into one. There’s a string of glorious powdery white beaches, great surf and some quality places to stay and eat (catering to Brisbane's naughty-weekend-away set). It’s also a hot-spot for spying dolphins, turtles, manta rays and, between June and November, hundreds of humpback whales. ‘Straddie’ also boasts freshwater lakes and 4WD tracks.

There are only a few small settlements on the island, with a handful of accommodation and eating options – mostly near Point Lookout in the northeast. On the west coast, Dunwich is where the ferries dock. Amity is a small village on the northwestern corner. Much of the island’s southern section is closed to visitors due to sand mining.

Interestingly, North and South Stradbroke Islands used to be one single island, but a savage storm blew through the sand spit between the two in 1896.

1Sights

At Point Lookout, the eye-popping North Gorge Headlands Walk is an absolute highlight. It’s an easy 20-minute loop around the headland along boardwalks, with the thrum of cicadas as your soundtrack. Keep an eye out for turtles, dolphins and manta rays offshore. The view from the headland down Main Beach is a showstopper.

There are several gorgeous beaches around Point Lookout. A patrolled swimming area, Cylinder Beach is popular with families and is flanked by Home Beach and the ominously named Deadman’s Beach. Further around the point, Frenchman’s Beach is another peaceful, secluded spot if you're not fussed by the odd nudist wandering past. Most of these spots have surf breaks, too. Near the Headlands Walk, surfers and bodyboarders descend on Main Beach in search of the ultimate wave.

Fisherfolk take their 4WDs further down Main Beach (4WD permit required; $39.55 from Straddie Camping) towards Eighteen Mile Swamp, continuing all the way down the east coast to Jumpinpin, the channel that separates North and South Stradbroke, a legendary fishing spot.

About 4km east of Dunwich, the tannin-stained Brown Lake is the colour of stewed tea, but is completely OK for swimming. There are picnic tables, barbecues and a toilet at the lake. About 4km further along this road, take the 2.6km (40-minute) bush track to Straddie's glittering centrepiece, Blue Lake, part of Naree Budjong Djara National Park (www.nprsr.qld.gov.au/parks/naree-budjong-djara): keep an eye out for forest birds, skittish lizards and swamp wallabies along the way. There’s a wooden viewing platform at the lake, which is encircled by a forest of paperbarks, eucalypts and banksias. You can cool off in the water, if you don’t mind the spooky unseen depths. Further north towards Point Lookout, the Keyholes is a freshwater lake and lagoon system. There’s 4WD access via the beach (permit required). Another happy diversion is a visit to Myora Springs – swimming holes surrounded by lush vegetation and walking tracks – near the coast about 4km north of Dunwich.

North Stradbroke Island Historical MuseumMUSEUM

(icon-phonegif%07-3409 9699; www.stradbrokemuseum.com.au; 15-17 Welsby St, Dunwich; adult/child $3.50/1; icon-hoursgifh10am-2pm Tue-Sat, 11am-3pm Sun)

Once the ‘Dunwich Benevolent Asylum’ – a home for the destitute – this small but impressive museum describes shipwrecks and harrowing voyages, and gives an introduction to the island’s rich Aboriginal history (the Quandamooka people are the traditional owners of Minjerribah, aka Straddie). Island artefacts include the skull of a sperm whale washed up on Main Beach in 2004, and the old Point Lookout lighthouse lens.

2Activities

North Stradbroke Island Surf SchoolSURFING

(icon-phonegif%07-3409 8342; www.northstradbrokeislandsurfschool.com.au; lessons from $50; icon-hoursgifhdaily)

Small-group, 90-minute surf lessons in the warm Straddie waves. Solo lessons available if you're feeling bashful.

Straddie AdventuresKAYAKING, SAND-BOARDING

(icon-phonegif%0433 171 477; www.straddieadventures.com.au; icon-hoursgifhdaily)

Hires out surfboards, snorkelling equipment and bicycles. Also runs sea-kayaking trips (adult/child $60/45) and sand-boarding sessions ($30/25).

Straddie Super SportsBICYCLE RENTAL

(icon-phonegif%07-3409 9252; 18 Bingle Rd, Dunwich; icon-hoursgifh8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-3pm Sat, 9am-2pm Sun)

Hires out mountain bikes (per hour/day $6.50/30), kayaks (per half-/full-day $30/50) and has fishing gear for sale. Possibly the friendliest shop in Queensland!

Manta Lodge & Scuba CentreDIVING

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3409 8888; www.mantalodge.com.au; 1 East Coast Rd, Point Lookout)

Based at the YHA, Manta Scuba Centre offers a broad range of options. You can simply hire a wetsuit ($20), snorkel gear ($25), or a surfboard ($50). Or take the plunge with a scuba course, starting at $499. Snorkelling trips (from $60) include a boat trip and all gear.

TTours

North Stradbroke Island 4WD Tours & Camping HolidaysDRIVING TOUR

(icon-phonegif%07-3409 8051; www.stradbroke4wdtours.com; adult/child half-day $35/20, full day $85/55)

Offers 4WD tours around the Point Lookout area, with lots of bush, beaches and wildlife. Beach fishing is $45/30 per adult/child.

Straddie Kingfisher ToursADVENTURE TOUR

(icon-phonegif%07-3409 9502; www.straddiekingfishertours.com.au; adult/child island pick-up $80/40, from Brisbane or Gold Coast $195/145)

Operates six-hour 4WD and fishing tours; also has whale-watching tours in season. Ask about kayaking and sand-boarding options.

4Sleeping

Straddie CampingCAMPGROUND

(icon-phonegif%07-3409 9668; www.straddiecamping.com.au; 1 Junner St, Dunwich; 4WD camp site from $16.55, unpowered/powered sites from $39/46, cabins from $120; icon-hoursgifhbooking office 8am-4pm)

There are eight island campgrounds operated by this outfit, including two 4WD-only foreshore camps (permits required – $39.55). The best of the bunch are grouped around Point Lookout: Cylinder Beach, Adder Rock and Home Beach all overlook the sand. Amity Point campground has new eco cabins. Good weekly rates; book well in advance.

Manta Lodge YHAHOSTEL

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3409 8888; www.mantalodge.com.au; 1 East Coast Rd, Point Lookout; dm/d/tw/f from $34/86/86/113; icon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

This three-storey, lemon-yellow hostel has clean (if unremarkable) rooms and a great beachside location (who wants to sit around in a dorm anyway?). There are jungly hammocks and a communal firepit out the back, plus a dive school downstairs. New showers; new beds. Surfboards, bodyboards and snorkelling gear for hire.

Straddie ViewsB&B

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3409 8875; www.northstradbrokeisland.com/straddiebb; 26 Cumming Pde, Point Lookout; s/d from $125/150)

There are two spacious downstairs suites in this B&B, run by a friendly Straddie local. Cooked breakfast is served on the upstairs deck with fab sea views.

Straddie BungalowsBUNGALOWS

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3409 7017; www.straddiebungalows.com.au; 33 Ballow St, Amity; 1-/2-/3-bedroom bungalows from $179/189/229; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

These elevated, beachy bungalows with Thai design touches are on the waterfront in chilled-out Amity: a good choice if you want to stay away from the Point Lookout fray. Terrific pool; terrific for families. And you can spot dolphins from the jetty!

Stradbroke Island Beach HotelHOTEL

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3409 8188; www.stradbrokehotel.com.au; East Coast Rd, Point Lookout; d from $235; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

Straddie’s only pub has 13 cool, inviting rooms with shell-coloured tiles, blonde timbers, high-end gadgets and balconies. Walk to the beach, or get distracted by the open-walled bar downstairs en route (serves breakfast, lunch and dinner; mains $18 to $40). Flashy three- and four-bed apartments also available for multinight stays.

AllureAPARTMENTS

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3415 0000, 1800 555 200; www.allurestradbroke.com.au; 43 East Coast Rd, Point Lookout; apt from $249; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

These large, ultramodern apartments are set in a leafy compound. Each villa (or ‘shack’, as the one-bedroom apartments are called) features lots of beachy colours, original artwork and an outdoor deck with barbecue. There isn’t much space between villas, but they’re cleverly designed with privacy in mind. Much cheaper rates for stays of more than one night.

5Eating

icon-top-choiceoIsland Fruit BarnCAFE

(icon-phonegif%07-3409 9125; www.stradbrokeholidays.com.au; 16 Bingle Rd, Dunwich; mains $10-12; icon-hoursgifh7am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat & Sun; icon-veggifv)

On the main road in Dunwich, Island Fruit Barn is a casual little congregation of tables with excellent breakfasts, smoothies, salads, soups, cakes and sandwiches, all made using top-quality ingredients. Order a spinach-and-feta roll, then stock up in the gourmet grocery section.

Oceanic GelatiGELATI

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3415 3222; www.stradbrokeholidays.com.au; 19 Mooloomba Rd, Point Lookout; gelati from $4; icon-hoursgifh9.30am-5pm)

‘OMG! This is the best gelati ever.’ So says one satisfied customer, and we’re in complete agreement. Try the dairy-free tropical, cooling lemon or classic vanilla.

Seashells CafeCAFE

(icon-phonegif%07-3409 7886; www.stradbrokeholidays.com.au; 21 Ballow St, Amity; mains $13-28; icon-hoursgifh9am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun)

The best eating option in Amity is this breezy, open-sided cafe-bar. There's cold XXXX beer on tap and mainstay mains such as seafood basket, veg fettuccine and lamb shanks, plus coffee and cake throughout the day. Bare feet welcome! The chef is from France – could he be any further from home?

LookMODERN AUSTRALIAN

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3415 3390; www.beachbarcafe.com; 1/29 Mooloomba Rd; mains $22-38; icon-hoursgifh8am-3pm daily, 6-9pm Thu-Sat)

Look! Pizzas, fishy mains, pastas, salads, funky tunes and breezy outdoor seating with water views. Lots of wines by the glass and smokin’ chilli prawns.

8Information

Although it’s quiet most of the year, the island population swells significantly at Christmas, Easter and during school holidays: book accommodation or camping permits well in advance.

If you plan to go off-road, get info and a 4WD permit ($39.55) from Straddie Camping.

8Getting There & Away

The hub for ferries to North Stradbroke Island is the Brisbane seaside suburb of Cleveland. Regular Citytrain (www.translink.com.au) services run from Brisbane’s Central and Roma St stations to Cleveland station ($10.30, one hour); buses to the ferry terminal meet the trains at Cleveland station ($5.20, 10 minutes).

Stradbroke Ferries & Fast FerriesFERRY

(icon-phonegif%07-3488 5300; www.stradbrokeferries.com.au; return per vehicle incl passengers $149, walk-on adult/child $10/5, fast ferry return adult/child $20/10; icon-hoursgifh5am-8pm)

Teaming up with Big Red Cat, Stradbroke Ferries’ passenger/vehicle services run to Dunwich and back eight times daily (45 minutes). Fast passenger ferries run 15 times daily (25 minutes). Cheaper online fares for vehicles.

Big Red CatFERRY

(icon-phonegif%07-3488 9777, 1800 733 228; www.bigredcat.com.au; return per vehicle incl passengers $149, walk-on adult/child $10/5; icon-hoursgifh5.15am-7pm)

In a tandem operation with Stradbroke Ferries, the feline-looking Big Red Cat vehicle/passenger ferry does the Cleveland–Dunwich run around eight times daily (45 minutes). Save a few dollars by booking online.

Gold Cats Stradbroke FlyerFERRY

(icon-phonegif%07-3286 1964; www.flyer.com.au; Middle St, Cleveland; return adult/child/family $19/10/50; icon-hoursgifh5am-7.30pm)

Gold Cats Stradbroke Flyer runs around a dozen return, passenger-only trips daily between Cleveland and One Mile Jetty at Dunwich (30 minutes).

Amity TraderFERRY

(icon-phonegif%07-3820 6557; www.amitytrader.com; 4WD/walk-on passengers return $270/40)

Ferries for 4WD vehicles and walk-on passengers from Amity to Kooringal on Moreton Island return several times weekly. Call for current timetable.

8Getting Around

Straddie is big: it’s best to have your own wheels to explore it properly. If you plan to go off-road, you can get information and buy a 4WD permit ($39.55) from Straddie Camping.

Alternatively, Stradbroke Island Buses (icon-phonegif%07-3415 2417; www.stradbrokebuses.com) meet the ferries at Dunwich and run to Amity and Point Lookout (one-way/return $5/10). The last bus to Dunwich leaves Point Lookout at 6.20pm. There’s also the Stradbroke Cab Service (icon-phonegif%0408 193 685), which charges around $60 from Dunwich to Point Lookout.

Straddie Super Sports in Dunwich hires out mountain bikes (per hour/day $6.50/30).

Moreton Island

Pop 250

If you’re not going further north in Queensland than Brisbane but want a slice of tropical paradise, slip over to blissful Moreton Island. You’ll be reassured to learn that Moreton's cache of sandy shores, bushland, bird life, dunes and glorious lagoons are protected – 95% of the isle comprises Moreton Island National Park & Recreation Area (www.nprsr.qld.gov.au/parks/moreton-island). Apart from a few rocky headlands, it’s all sand, with Mt Tempest, the highest coastal sand hill in the world, towering high at a lofty 280m. Off the west coast are the rusty, hulking Tangalooma Wrecks, which provide excellent snorkelling and diving.

The island has a rich history, from early Aboriginal settlements to the site of Queensland’s first and only whaling station at Tangalooma, which operated between 1952 and 1962. These days, swimming, snorkelling and 4WD trails keep visitors occupied (in fact, the island is a 4WD-only domain).

Tangalooma now hosts the island’s sole resort, and there are three other small settlements on the west coast: Bulwer near the northwestern tip, Cowan Cowan between Bulwer and Tangalooma, and Kooringal near the southern tip.

1Sights & Activities

Check out the dolphin feeding which happens each evening around sunset at Tangalooma, halfway down the western side of the island. Around half a dozen dolphins swim in from the ocean and take fish from the hands of volunteer feeders. You have to be a guest of the Tangalooma Island Resort to participate, but onlookers are welcome. Also at the resort is the Tangalooma Marine Education & Conservation Centre (www.tangalooma.com/info/dolphin_feeding/tmecc; Tangalooma Island Resort; icon-hoursgifh10am-noon & 1-5pm), which has a display on the diverse marine and bird life of Moreton Bay. You can pick up a map of island walking trails here. The centre also runs pelican-, kookaburra- and fish-feeding tours, plus nature walks.

Just north of the resort, off the coast, are the famous Tangalooma Wrecks – 15 sunken ships forming a sheltered boat mooring and a brilliant snorkelling spot. You can hire snorkelling gear from the resort, or Tangatours runs two-hour kayaking and snorkelling trips around the wrecks ($79) as well as guided paddle-boarding ($49) and dusk kayaking tours ($59).

Island bushwalks include a desert trail (two hours) leaving from the resort, as well as the strenuous trek up Mt Tempest, 3km inland from Eagers Creek – worthwhile, but you’ll need transport to reach the start.

Built in 1857 at the island’s northern tip, Cape Moreton Lighthouse is the oldest operating lighthouse in Queensland, and is the place to come for great views when the whales are passing by.

TTours

Most island tours depart from Brisbane or the Gold Coast. Dolphin Wild (icon-phonegif%07-3880 4444; www.dolphinwild.com.au; adult/child/family incl lunch $125/75/325, snorkelling tour per adult/child additional $20/10) runs dolphin-spotting tours from the Redcliffe Peninsula north of Brisbane. Tangatours (icon-phonegif%07-3410 6927; www.tangatours.com.au), operating from Tangalooma Island Resort, offers activity-based tours.

Adventure Moreton IslandADVENTURE TOUR

(icon-phonegif%1300 022 878; www.adventuremoretonisland.com; 1-day tours from $144)

Operating in cahoots with Tangatours at Tangalooma Island Resort, these tours offer a range of activities (paddleboarding, snorkelling, sailing, kayaking, fishing etc), ex-Brisbane. Overnight resort accommodation packages also available (including tour from $323).

Moreton Bay EscapesADVENTURE TOUR

(icon-phonegif%1300 559 355; www.moretonbayescapes.com.au; 1-day tours adult/child from $189/139, 2-day camping tours $309/179)icon-sustainableS

A certified eco-tour, this one-day 4WD tour includes snorkelling or kayaking, sand boarding, marine wildlife watching and a picnic lunch. Camp overnight to see more of the isle.

Moreton Island AdventuresDRIVING TOUR

(icon-phonegif%07-3909 3333; www.moretonislandadventures.com.au; 14 Howard Smith Dr, Port of Brisbane; 1-day tours adult/child from $170/140)

Guided 4WD trips with either an eco or adventure bent, departing Port of Brisbane on the flashy Micat vehicle ferry. Accommodation also available in dorm-style units and upmarket en-suite tents (two-/four-bed tents from $80/110; units from $130).

4Sleeping & Eating

Aside from the resort, there are a few holiday flats and houses for rent at Kooringal, Cowan Cowan and Bulwer: see listings at www.moretonisland.com.au. Moreton Island Adventures also offers camping and unit accommodation.

There are also 10 national-park camping grounds (icon-phonegif%13 74 68; www.nprsr.qld.gov.au/experiences/camping; sites per person/family $5.75/23) on Moreton Island, all with water, toilets and cold showers; five of these are right on the beach. Book online or by phone before you get to the island.

There’s a small convenience store plus cafes, restaurants and bars at the resort; plus (expensive) shops at Kooringal and Bulwer: otherwise, bring food and drink supplies with you from the mainland.

Tangalooma Island ResortHOTEL, APARTMENTS

(icon-phonegif%07-3637 2000, 1300 652 250; www.tangalooma.com; d from $250, 2-/3-/4-bedroom apt from $630/730/830; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

This beautifully sited place has the island accommodation market cornered. There are abundant sleeping options, starting with simple hotel rooms. Units and suites are a step up, with beachside access and more contemporary decor. The apartments – a step up again – range from two- to four-bedroom configurations. The resort also has several eating options. Accommodation packages sometimes include return ferry fares and transfers.

8Information

There are no paved roads on Moreton Island, but 4WDs can travel along the beaches and cross-island tracks (regular cars not permitted) – seek local advice about tides and creek crossings before venturing out. You can pick up maps from the ferry operators. Permits for 4WDs cost $45.10, valid for one month, and are available through ferry operators, online or via phone from the Department of National Parks, Recreation, Sport and Racing. Ferry bookings are mandatory if you want to take a vehicle across.

Online, see www.visitmoretonisland.com.

8Getting There & Around

Several ferries operate from the mainland. To explore once you get to the island, bring a 4WD or take a tour. Most tours are ex-Brisbane, and include ferry transfers.

Micat (www.micat.com.au; 14 Howard Smith Dr, Port of Brisbane; return adult/child $50/35, vehicle incl 2 people $195-230) Vehicle ferries from Port of Brisbane to Tangalooma around eight times weekly (75 minutes); see the website for directions to the ferry terminal.

Moreton Island Tourist Services (icon-phonegif%07-3408 2661; www.moretonisland.net.au) Four-wheel drive taxi transfers around the island; one-way trips range from $50 to $220.

Tangalooma Flyer (icon-phonegif%07-3637 2000; www.tangalooma.com; return adult/child $80/45) Fast passenger catamaran operated by Tangalooma Island Resort. It makes the 75-minute trip to the resort three times daily from Holt St Wharf in Brisbane (see the website for directions). A shuttle bus (adult/child one way $21/10.50) scoots to the wharf from the CBD or airport; bookings essential.

Amity Trader Vehicle ferry from North Stradbroke Island to Kooringal.

Granite Belt

Dappling the western flanks of the Great Dividing Range about 210km southwest of Brisbane, the Granite Belt region features rolling hillsides lined with vine rows and orchards (apples, pears, plums, peaches) that thrive in the cool, crisp air here (Stanthorpe, the regional hub, sits at an altitude of 915m). This is Queensland’s only real wine region of any size – the only place in the state where it's cool enough to grow commercial quantities of grapes. Further south, on the New South Wales (NSW) border, balancing boulders and spring wild flowers attract bushwalkers to the photogenic Girraween National Park.

Stanthorpe & Ballandean

Queensland’s coolest town (literally), Stanthorpe (population 4300) is one of the state's lesser-known tourist hotspots. With a distinct four-season climate, the town is a winter retreat where normally sweltering Queenslanders can cosy up in front of an open fire with a bottle of vino rosso from one of the 50-plus local wineries. In 1860 an Italian priest planted the first grapevines here, but it wasn’t until the influx of Italian immigrants in the 1940s (who brought with them a lifetime of viticultural nous) that the wine industry really took off. Today functional Stanthorpe and the tiny village of Ballandean (population 470), about 20km to the south, boast a flourishing wine industry, with cellar-door sales, on-site dining, vineyard events and boutique accommodation.

But it’s not all wine and song: the Granite Belt’s changing seasons also make it a prime fruit-growing area and there’s plenty of fruit picking available for backpackers who don’t mind chilly mornings.

GRANITE BELT WINERIES

With dozens of Granite Belt wineries offering free tastings, you could easily spend a week wading through the wines of the region and still only make a ripple on the surface (see www.granitebeltwinecountry.com.au/wine/cellar-doors). Or you could spend a day or two visiting a select few. It's usually worth an advance phone call to the smaller cellar doors to make sure they're open.

Ballandean Estate (icon-phonegif%07-4684 1226; www.ballandeanestate.com; 354 Sundown Rd, Ballandean; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm) One of Queensland’s oldest and biggest wineries, with many award-winning vintages and an impressive cafe-restaurant called the Barrel Room Cafe. Free winery tours at 11am.

Boireann Wines (icon-phonegif%07-4683 2194; www.boireannwinery.com.au; 26 Donnellys Castle Rd, The Summit; icon-hoursgifh10am-4pm Fri-Mon) Boireann's hand-made premium reds rank among the finest in the region (and have been awarded five stars by Aussie wine guru James Halliday). Small cellar door about 10km north of Stanthorpe.

Golden Grove Estate (icon-phonegif%07-4684 1291; www.goldengroveestate.com.au; 337 Sundown Rd, Ballandean; icon-hoursgifh10am-3pm) Established family-run estate with many unique varieties, including an excellent nero d’avola red, a Sicilian native grape. Another James Halliday five-star winery.

Ravens Croft Wines (icon-phonegif%07-4683 3252; www.ravenscroftwines.com.au; 274 Spring Creek Rd, Stanthorpe; icon-hoursgifh10.30am-4.30pm Fri-Sun) Highly respected winemaker producing superb reds (petit verdot, cabernet sauvignon and South African pinotage) and whites (including a top-notch verdelho). It's a modest cellar door in the backcountry west of Stanthorpe.

Robert Channon Wines (icon-phonegif%07-4683 3260; www.robertchannonwines.com.au; 32 Bradley Ln, Stanthorpe; icon-hoursgifh11am-4pm Mon, Tue & Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun) Lots of trophy-winning wines (it was the first winery in Queensland to be awarded five stars by James Halliday), and a buzzy weekend cafe with views over a pretty lake. Try the verdelho.

1Sights & Activities

Wine-tasting is a must-do in this neck of the woods, as is a drive through the boulder-strewn, vine-lined Granite Belt landscape. If you plan on swilling one too many, opt for a tour.

Weekenders come not only for the wine but also the food: across the Granite Belt region you’ll find some brilliant boutique foodie businesses offering delectible edibles (and drinkables).

The Stanthorpe visitor information centre stocks the Stanthorpe to Ballandean Bike Trail brochure, detailing a 34km trail between the two hubs.

Stanthorpe Regional Art GalleryGALLERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4681 1874; www.srag.org.au; cnr Lock & Marsh Sts; icon-hoursgifh10am-4pm Tue-Fri, to 1pm Sat & Sun)icon-freeF

One of Queensland's better regional art galleries, housing a small but surprisingly engaging collection of works by local artists – mostly canvases and ceramics. It makes a beaut rainy-day detour. Check the website or call for info on Sunday afternoon live music.

Granite Belt BreweryBREWERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4681 1370; www.granitebeltbrewery.com.au; 146 Glenlyon Dr, Stanthorpe; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm)

It's not just about the wine around here – there's a local brewery too! Swing into the bar at the Happy Valley accommodation/restaurant to sample a few brews. A $12 tasting paddle (or the smaller, driver-friendly $7 version) gives you a sample of four current offerings, which might include the Granite Pilsner, Poziers Porter or Irish Red Ale.

Granite Belt DairyFOOD

(icon-phonegif%07-4685 2277; www.granitebeltdairy.com.au; cnr Amiens Rd & Duncan Ln, Thulimbah; icon-hoursgifh10am-4pm)

What’s wine without cheese? The Granite Belt’s leading cheesemaker delivers a tasty array of the good stuff, all available for sampling. Also on offer at the adjoining Jersey Girls Cafe are fantastic milkshakes and cheesecakes, Devonshire teas and light lunches, plus fresh-baked bread, chutneys and other picnic hamper–fillers. Don't leave without trying the whiffy Bastard Tail washed-rind soft cheese.

Bramble PatchFOOD

(icon-phonegif%07-4683 4205; www.bramblepatch.com.au; 381 Townsend Rd, Glen Aplin; icon-hoursgifh10am-4pm)

Follow the strawberry signs along Townsend Rd to this berry patch with a sense of humour. Stock-up or eat on site: ice cream with homemade berry compote, waffles with berries, jams, relishes, fortified berry wines, and of course fresh fruits (November to April). Love the chilli plum sauce.

WORTH A TRIP

GIRRAWEEN NATIONAL PARK

A short drive east of Ballandean, Girraween National Park (www.nprsr.qld.gov.au/parks/girraween) is home to some astonishing granite boulders, pristine forests and brilliant blooms of springtime wild flowers (Girraween means 'place of flowers'), all of which make a marvellous setting for a stroll. Wildlife is abundant and there are 17km of trails to take you around and to the top of some of the surreal granite outcrops. Short walks include the 1.6km return walk to the Granite Arch and a 3.6km return scramble up the Pyramid (1080m). The granddaddy of Girraween walks is the 11km return trek to the top of Mt Norman (1267m).

Ballandean and Stanthorpe are a short drive away, and there are a couple of excellent places to stay in the area.

Girraween Environmental Lodge ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4684 5138; www.girraweenlodge.com.au; Pyramids Rd, Ballandean; d $250, extra adult/child $40/20; icon-swimgifs) is an eco-friendly bushland retreat set on 160 wildlife-rich hectares adjacent to the national park. Made largely of recycled timber, the 10 simply elegant, self-contained timber cabins here sleep up to six people, are ultracomfy and have wood heaters, DVD players and private decks with barbecues. There’s also an outdoor spa and plunge pool. No restaurant: BYO food.

In a large paddock with grazing cattle, Wisteria Cottage ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4684 5121; www.wisteriacottage.com.au; 2117 Pyramids Rd, Wyberba; d incl breakfast from $190) has three simple, tasteful and private timber cottages: one two-bedroom cottage (sleeping six), and two one-bedroom cottages (sleeping two and four). The cabins have wide verandahs and cosy wood fires. Breakfast comes in a big hamper, or there's the Heavenly Chocolate (icon-phonegif%07-4684 5121; www.heavenlychocolate.com.au; 2117 Pyramids Rd, Wyberba; icon-hoursgifh10am-4pm Fri-Mon) shop on site!

There are also two good drive-in camping grounds (icon-phonegif%13 74 68; http://parks.nprsr.qld.gov.au/permits; per person/family $5.75/23) in the park – Castle Rock and Bald Rock Creek – which teem with wildlife and have drinking water, barbecues and hot showers. Book online or via phone before you arrive.

The visitor centre at the end of Pyramids Rd has information on the park and walking tracks (opening hours vary, but map brochures should be available even if there's no one present). Although winter nights here can be cold, it’s hot work scaling the boulders, so take plenty of water.

To reach the park, head 8km south of Ballandean, turn left on Pyramids Rd, and continue another 7km to the park entrance.

4Sleeping

Top of the Town Tourist ParkCARAVAN PARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4681 4888; www.topoftown.com.au; 10 High St, Stanthorpe; powered sites $40, cabins/motel d from $110/125; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-swimgifs)

A bushy site on the northern side of Stanthorpe, this is a serviceable option if you're here for seasonal work in the vineyards and orchards. A snug six-person cottage costs $230 per night.

Backpackers of QueenslandHOSTEL

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0429 810 998; www.backpackersofqueensland.com.au; 80 High St, Stanthorpe; per week $195; icon-acongifa)

The management here helps young fruit pickers find work, and accommodates them in utilitarian comfort. There's a minimum one-week stay in five-bed dorms with en-suite bathrooms. No booze, drugs, smoking or monkey business.

Diamondvale B&B CottagesCOTTAGE

(icon-phonegif%07-4681 3367; www.diamondvalecottages.com.au; 26 Diamondvale Rd, Stanthorpe; 1-/2-/4-bedroom from $195/350/750; icon-wifigifW)

In bucolic bushland outside of Stanthorpe, Diamondvale is a friendly place with five private cottages and a four-bedroom lodge, each with old-fashioned details, and a wood-burning fireplace, kitchen and verandah. The communal barbecue hut is a winner, and you can walk 2km along the creek into town (or jump in for a swim).

Stannum Lodge Motor InnMOTEL

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4681 2000; www.stannumlodge.com.au; 12 Wallangarra Rd, Stanthorpe; d/tw from $125/135; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

Streaking ahead of the rest of Stanthorpe's motels, Stannum Lodge is a low, bricky 1985 number, but it's quite possibly the cleanest motel we've ever seen! Brand new TVs and linen, a neat little pool, free wi-fi and affable hosts seal the deal. There's also a cute gazebo out the back for wine and cheese indulgences.

Azjure Studio RetreatBOUTIQUE HOTEL

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0405 127 070; www.azjure.com.au; 165 Sundown Rd, Ballandean; 1-/2-bedroom studios from $300/430; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

This much-awarded retreat features three snappily designed, ultramod free-standing studios for two people (plus a villa for four) with sweeping views across the vines. Each has a roomy open-plan layout, huge windows, a verandah with barbecue and high-end fittings (including a spa tub with views). Kangaroos hop past in the twilight.

5Eating

icon-top-choiceoVariasMODERN AUSTRALIAN

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4685 5050; www.varias.com.au; Queensland College of Wine Tourism, 22 Caves Rd, Stanthorpe; mains $25-34; icon-hoursgifhlunch 11am-3pm daily, breakfast 9-11.30am Sat & Sun, wine & tapas 4-7pm Fri)

This chic bistro features the delectable handiwork of student chefs at the adjunct Queensland College of Wine Tourism, a low-slung, angular, steel-and-stone construction fronting the New England Hwy. Courses are paired with the college’s excellent Bianca Ridge wines. With a flickering fire and floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the vines, it's Stanthorpe's classiest restaurant by a country mile.

Barrel Room CafeMODERN AUSTRALIAN

(icon-phonegif%07-4684 1326; www.thebarrel-room.com; Ballandean Estate, 354 Sundown Rd, Ballandean; mains $27-35; icon-hoursgifh11.30am-2.30pm Wed-Mon, 6pm-late Thu-Sun)

This snug cafe-restaurant at Ballandean Estate winery, framed by massive 140-year-old wine barrels, is a beaut spot for a decadent meal and a bottle or two. Organic lamb shoulder with Israeli couscous and whipped feta, and duck breast with truffled gnocchi and mushroom ragu, are a couple of recent hits from the seasonal menu.

Patty's on McGregorMODERN AUSTRALIAN

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4681 3463; www.pattysonmcgregor.com.au; 2 McGregor Tce, Stanthorpe; mains $30-38; icon-hoursgifh6.30pm-late Thu-Sat)

A long-running Stanthorpe favourite, Patty’s quirky backstreet shopfront serves a changing selection of beautifully prepared dishes with Eastern accents – perhaps a rogan josh curry with local organic lamb, or a za'atar-crusted pork loin with pear and garden honey, and always a vegetarian dish of the day. Expect black-and-white tile floors, candlelit tables, local artwork and BYO with no corkage!

8Information

Most of the Granite Belt wineries are located south of Stanthorpe around Ballandean. Pick up the Granite Belt Wine Country booklet from the Stanthorpe visitor information centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1800 762 665, 07-4681 2057; www.granitebeltwinecountry.com.au; 28 Leslie Pde, Stanthorpe ; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm).

8Getting There & Around

Greyhound Australia (icon-phonegif%13 14 99; www.greyhound.com.au) and Crisps Coaches (www.crisps.com.au) service Stanthorpe. There are buses to Warwick ($16, 45 minutes), Toowoomba ($47, 2½ hours), Brisbane ($58, 4½ hours) and Tenterfield in NSW ($20, 45 minutes), with connections to Byron Bay through Northern Rivers Buslines.

To tour the Granite Belt wineries, either take a guided tour or bring your own set of wheels (plus a sober friend to do the driving).

Toowoomba

Pop 157,700

Squatting on the edge of the Great Dividing Range, 700m above sea level, Toowoomba is a sprawling country hub with wide tree-lined streets, stately homes and down-to-earth locals. There's not a whole lot going on here from the travellers' perspective (in fact, when we asked a local friend 'What should we do when we get to Toowoomba?', his reply was 'Leave.'…): but if you've been darting across the state from end to end and need a break, it's not a bad spot to stop and chill out for a day or two.

The air is distinctly crisper up here on the range, and in spring the town’s gardens blaze with colour. Not only is the ‘Garden City’ Queensland’s largest and oldest inland city, it is also the birthplace of two national icons: the archetypal Aussie cake, the lamington, and Oscar-winner Geoffrey Rush.

1Sights & Activities

Cobb & Co MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4659 4900; www.cobbandco.qm.qld.gov.au; 27 Lindsay St; adult/child/family $12.50/6.50/32; icon-hoursgifh10am-4pm)

How many school kids can you squeeze into one museum? Immediately north of Queens Park, the rather good Cobb & Co Museum houses an impressive carriage collection with hands-on displays depicting town life and outback travel back in horse-powered days. The museum also has a blacksmith forge, photographic displays of early Toowoomba and an Aboriginal collection – shields, axe heads, boomerangs – plus animated films relating Dreaming stories. Look for the half-dozen spinning windmills out the front.

Picnic PointPARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.picnic-point.com.au; Tourist Rd; icon-hoursgifh24hr, cafe/restaurant 8.30am-5pm Mon-Thu, to 9pm Fri, 8am-9pm Sat, 8am-5pm Sun)icon-freeF

Riding high on the rim of the Great Dividing Range and strung along the eastern edge of town are Toowoomba’s Escarpment Parks, the pick of which is Picnic Point. There are walking trails here, plenty of the namesake picnic spots and a cafe-restaurant (mains $14 to $27), but what everyone really comes for are the eye-popping views over the Lockyer Valley (Toowoomba is really lofty!).

Ju Raku En Japanese GardenGARDENS

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.toowoombarc.qld.gov.au; West St; icon-hoursgifh7am-dusk)icon-freeF

Ju Raku En is a beautiful, Zen-like spot about 4km south of the centre at the University of Southern Queensland. Designed by a Japanese professor in Kyoto, the 5-hectare garden has a rippling lake, carefully aligned boulders, conifers, bamboo stands, cherry blossom trees, photo-perfect bridges and wiggly paths.

Toowoomba Regional Art GalleryGALLERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4688 6652; www.toowoombarc.qld.gov.au/trag; 531 Ruthven St; icon-hoursgifh10am-4pm Tue-Sat, 1-4pm Sun)icon-freeF

The small Toowoomba Regional Art Gallery houses an interesting collection of paintings, ceramics and drawings, plus rare books, maps and manuscripts in the library section. Regular touring exhibitions attract a few more visitors than usual.

4Sleeping

Big4 Toowoomba Garden CityCARAVAN PARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4635 1747, 1800 333 667; www.big4toowoombagchp.com.au; 34a Eiser St, Harristown; powered sites from $39, 1-/2-/3-bedroom cabins from $103/135/170; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

It's a bit of journey into town, but this quiet backstreet caravan park is the best bet for campers visiting Toowoomba. Expect grassy sites, tidy cabins, flower beds, two swimming pools and a beaut outdoor BBQ area ('Drunk and loutish behaviour will not be tolerated!').

icon-top-choiceoVacy HallGUESTHOUSE

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4639 2055; www.vacyhall.com.au; 135 Russell St; d $125-245; icon-wifigifW)

Uphill from the town centre, this magnificent 1873 mansion (originally a wedding gift from a cashed-up squatter to his daughter) offers 12 heritage-style rooms with loads of authentic charm. A wide verandah wraps around the house, all rooms have en suites or private bathrooms; most have working fireplaces. Superhigh ceilings make some rooms taller than they are wide. Free wi-fi.

Ecoridge HideawayCHALET

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4630 9636; www.ecoridgehideaway.com.au; 712 Rockmount Rd, Preston; r from $140)

Ecoridge is an excellent alternative to the often unremarkable accommodation in central Toowoomba. Around 15km from the city on a back road to Gatton, the three self-contained cabins here are simple and elegant, with wood heaters, gas cooking and eye-popping sunrise views across the Great Dividing Range. Cheaper for longer stays.

Central Plaza HotelHOTEL, APARTMENTS

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4688 5333, 1300 300 402; www.toowoombacentralplaza.com.au; 523 Ruthven St; 1-/2-/3-bedroom apt from $180/380/415; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

Flashy, corporate and an impressive nine floors high, the Central Plaza offers a modicum of urbane poshness in this big country town, where motels are many and most hotels are places you go to drink beer. Inside you'll find nice art, mod furniture and colourful, well-designed apartments with rooftop views.

5Eating

PhatburgersBURGERS

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4638 4738; www.phatburgers.com.au; 520 Ruthven St; burgers $6-20; icon-hoursgifh10am-9pm)

Chipper Phat plates up brilliant burgers, lurid orange napkins and live DJs spinning retro rock. Top of the calorie charts is the Burghoffer, which is big enough to stop traffic (if you manage to eat one at a single sitting, drop us a line). Love the homemade ground chilli paste.

ArtisanPIZZA

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4638 0727; www.facebook.com/artisanpizzaandsandwich; 41a Russell St; mains $8-18; icon-hoursgifh11am-3pm Tue-Fri, 5-9pm Tue-Sat)

Artisan is a hip, semi-industrial space with long, chunky-timber communal tables, stainless-steel chairs, old floorboards and art-deco ceilings. The busy open kitchen in the corner serves up simple pizzas, salads and flat-bread sandwiches. Good coffee too.

OrtemCAFE

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4632 0090; www.ortem.com.au; 15 Railway St; mains $17-22; icon-hoursgifh7am-4pm)

Opposite the train station, this hip industrial cafe offers a small-but-arty menu of salads, risottos, burgers and big breakfasts, plus superior coffee. Outdoor seating in front, cool contemporary art and happy staff (always a good sign) round out the experience. There's also an events space upstairs: check the website for happenings (trivia nights, film screenings, boutique coffee sessions etc).

Chutney Mary'sINDIAN

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4638 0822; www.chutneymary.com.au; 335 Ruthven St; mains $17-23; icon-hoursgifhnoon-3pm Mon-Sat, 5pm-late daily)

Spice up your Toowoomba tenure with a visit to Chutney Mary's, where reliable curries, naans, tandoor and rice dishes accompany colourful dangling Indian trinkets.

6Drinking

Spotted CowPUB

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.spottedcow.com.au; cnr Ruthven & Campbell Sts; icon-hoursgifh11am-late)

A mustard-coloured pub with old blues on the stereo and regular live bands (Aussie acts such as Dan Sultan and Steve Kilbey), the Spotted Cow is a Toowoomba institution. There are 70 different beers on offer if you've worked up a thirst, and tasty bistro meals (mains $11 to $40: go for the 1kg pot of mussels for $27). Trivia on Wednesday nights.

8Information

Toowoomba visitor information centreTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-4639 3797, 1800 331 155; www.southernqueenslandcountry.com.au; 86 James St; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm; icon-wifigifW)

Located southeast of the centre, at the junction with Kitchener St. Peel yourself off a vast bed-sheet-sized map of town. Also stocks self-guided Toowoomba Tourist Drive maps.

8Getting There & Away

Toowoomba is 126km west of Brisbane on the Warrego Hwy. Greyhound provides regular daily services between Brisbane and Toowoomba ($36, two hours), and runs south to Stanthorpe less frequently ($47, 2½ hours).

If you're coming straight from Brisbane Airport, the Airport Flyer (icon-phonegif%1300 304 350, 07-4630 1444; www.theairportflyer.com.au; one-way/return $86/155) runs door-to-door services to/from Toowoomba (cheaper for more than one passenger).

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