Attractive tropical streets, art deco buildings, winding mangroves and welcoming populace aside, Mackay doesn’t quite make the tourist hit list. Instead, this big country coastal town caters more to the surrounding agricultural and mining industries – but it's a refreshing stop if you've been to one too many resort towns. Although the redeveloped marina does entice with al fresco restaurants and outdoor cafes along its picturesque promenade, Mackay is more a convenient base for excursions out of town. It’s only a 1½-hour drive to Airlie Beach and boats to the Whitsundays, and a scenic jaunt past the sugar-cane fields to Eungella National Park.

Mackay

1Sights

1Artspace MackayB3

2Bluewater LagoonB1

4Sleeping

3Gecko's RestD2

5Eating

4Burp Eat DrinkD2

FoodspaceB3

5Kevin's PlaceD2

6Oscar's on SydneyD3

7Spice n FlavourC2

8Woodsman's Axe CoffeeD2

6Drinking & Nightlife

9Ambassador HotelD1

10TrystC2

Aside from being the jump-off point for the dreamy Whitsunday Islands, Airlie Beach is a backpacker's good-time town of the highest order, with cavernous bar-hostels lining the bright main drag and a lawn-surrounded swimming lagoon just beyond for sleeping it all off. But the 2014 opening of the new, slick Port of Airlie marina, hotel and restaurant complex is an unmissable sign that the village is going more upscale; there are now more options than ever to attract older, more sophisticated travellers wanting a little of the wild life before lifting anchor for the serenity of the sparkling seas and jungle-clad isles in the distance. Those looking to avoid the party scene all together will have no trouble finding quieter lodgings near town.

The Port of Airlie, from where the Cruise Whitsundays ferries depart and where many of the cruising yachts are moored, is about 750m east along a pleasant boardwalk. Many other vessels leave from Abel Point Marina (1km west) or Shute Harbour (about 12km east); most cruise companies run courtesy buses into town.

Airlie Beach

2Activities, Courses & Tours

1LagoonB1

4Sleeping

2Airlie Beach YHAC2

3Airlie Waterfront B&BB1

4Beaches BackpackersB2

5Magnums BackpackersC2

6Nomads BackpackersB2

7Sunlit WatersA2

8WaterviewA2

5Eating

9Denman Cellars Beer CafeD3

10Easy CafeC2

11Fish D'vineD2

12Mr BonesB2

13Village CafeB2

14Wisdom HealthB2

15Woolworths SupermarketC2

6Drinking & Nightlife

16Just Wine & CheeseD2

17Mama AfricaB2

18Paddy's ShenanigansB2

19Phoenix BarC2

Transport

20Long-Distance Bus StopD2

21Whitsunday Transit Bus StopB2

22Whitsunday Transit Bus StopC2

23Whitsunday Transit Bus StopB2

24Whitsunday Transit Bus StopC2

Long Island

Long Island has secluded, pretty white beaches, lots of adorable, wild rock wallabies and 13km of walking tracks. Some very good deals can be found online to stay at the Break Free Long Island Resort (%1800 075 125; www.oceanhotels.com.au/longisland; d from $139; ais). It's an easy-going, remote place, great for splashing around in the pool with the kids, drinking beer on the gorgeous beach or swinging in a hammock in the shade of a palm tree. Several forest walking trails start at the resort. Kayaks and pedal boats are free, there's minigolf, and plenty of other water-sports equipment is available for hire.

Day trippers can also use the facilities at Break Free Long Island Resort, and there's a basic camping ground (www.nprsr.qld.gov.au; per person/family $5.75/23) on the island.

Hook Island

The 53-sq-km Hook Island, second-largest of the Whitsundays, is predominantly national park and rises to 450m at Hook Peak. There are a number of good beaches dotted around the island, and some of the region’s best diving and snorkelling locations.

There are national-park camping grounds (www.nprsr.qld.gov.au; per person/family $5.45/21.80) at Maureen Cove, Steen’s Beach, Curlew Beach and Crayfish Beach. Although basic, they provide some wonderful back-to-nature opportunities.

Transfers are arranged when you book your accommodation. Otherwise, Whitsunday Island Camping Connections – Scamper (%07-4946 6285; www.whitsundaycamping.com.au) can organise drop-offs to the camping grounds (minimum four people) for around $160 per person return.

South Molle Island

The largest of the Molle group of islands at 4 sq km, South Molle is virtually joined to Mid and North Molle Islands. Apart from the private residence area and golf course at Bauer Bay in the north, the island is all national park and is criss-crossed by 15km of walking tracks, with some superb lookout points.

There are national park camping grounds (%13 74 68; www.nprsr.qld.gov.au; per person/family $5.45/21.80) at Sandy Bay in the south, and at Paddle Bay near the resort.

Day trippers and campers can get to South Molle with Whitsunday Island Camping Connections – Scamper ($65 return).

Daydream Island

Daydream Island, just over 1km long and 200m wide, would live up to its name a bit more if it wasn't quite so busy; one could be forgiven for mistaking it for a floating theme park. The closest resort to the mainland, it’s a very popular day-trip destination and is suitable for everybody, especially busy families, swinging singles and couples looking for a romantic island wedding.

The large and delightfully kitsch Daydream Island Resort & Spa (%1800 075 040; www.daydreamisland.com;  d from $368; aWs) is surrounded by beautifully landscaped tropical gardens, with a stingray-, shark- and fish-filled lagoon running through it. It has tennis courts, a gym, catamarans, sailboards, three swimming pools and an open-air cinema all included in the tariff. There’s also a club with constant activities to keep children occupied. The resort occupies the entire island; Daydream is not the place to head if you’re seeking isolation.

Cruise Whitsundays (%07-4946 4662; www.cruisewhitsundays.com; one-way adult/child $36/24) connects Daydream Island to Abel Point Marina and Shute Harbour with frequent daily services.

Hamilton Island

Pop 1209

Hayman Island

The most northern of the Whitsunday group, little Hayman is just 4 sq km in area and rises to 250m above sea level. It has forested hills, valleys and beaches, and a luxury five-star resort.

An avenue of stately date palms leads to the main entrance of the gorgeous One&Only Hayman Island Resort (%07-4940 1838; www.hayman.com.au; r incl breakfast $730-12,300; aiWs). It's one of the most gilded playgrounds on the Great Barrier Reef with a hectare of swimming pools, landscaped gardens and grounds, and exclusive boutiques.

Resort guests must first fly to Hamilton Island Airport before being escorted to Hayman's fleet of luxury cruisers for a pampered transfer to the resort.

Lindeman Island

Lovely little Lindeman was once home to a busy Club Med resort. These days, it's only nature photographers and hikers who provide any semblance of bustle, making independent treks for the varied island tree life and the sublime view from Mt Oldfield (210m). Lindeman is mostly national park, with empty bays and 20km of impressive walking trails. Boat Port is the best spot for camping.

Whitsunday Island

Whitehaven Beach, on Whitsunday Island, is a pristine 7km-long stretch of blinding sand (at 98% pure silica, said sand is some of the whitest in the world), bounded by lush tropical vegetation and a brilliant blue sea. From Hill Inlet at the northern end of the beach, the swirling pattern of dazzling sand through the turquoise and aquamarine water paints a magical picture. There’s excellent snorkelling from its southern end. Whitehaven is one of Australia’s most beautiful beaches.

There are national-park camping grounds (%13 74 68; www.nprsr.qld.gov.au; adult/family $5.45/21.80) at Dugong, Nari’s and Joe’s Beaches in the west; at Chance Bay in the south; at the southern end of Whitehaven Beach; and Peter Bay in the north.

Whitsunday Island Camping Connections – Scamper can get you there from $105 return.

Other Whitsunday Islands

The northern islands are undeveloped and seldom visited by cruise boats or water taxis. Several of these – Gloucester, Saddleback and Armit Islands – have national-park camping grounds. The NPRSR office in Airlie Beach can issue camping permits and advise you on which islands to visit and how to get there.

Bowen is a typical, old-style, small Queensland coastal town: wide streets, low-rise buildings, wooden Queenslander houses and laid-back, friendly locals. What makes Bowen stand out from other similar towns is its 24 colourful murals, all depicting various events and facets of the region's history; grab a walking map and more info at the visitor centre or information booth..

The foreshore, with its landscaped esplanade, picnic tables and barbecues, is a focal point, and there are some truly stunning – and little-visited – beaches and bays northeast of the town centre.

Bowen gets busy during fruit-picking season (April to November). The famous Bowen mango unsurprisingly hails from here.

Keep an eye out for the 'Bowenwood' sign on the town's water tower; Baz Luhrmann's epic movie Australia was shot here in 2007 and the locals are still a little star-struck.

If you're looking for fruit-picking work, check with just-off-the-beach Bowen Backpackers (%07-4786 3433; www.bowenbackpackers.net; Herbert St; dm from night/week $40/180; aiW); book a bed well in advance if you want to stay. Even if you're just passing through, stop in at Jochheims Pies (49 George St; pies $4.60; h5.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, to 12.30pm Sat) for a 'hunky beef' pie, so named because it was Hugh Jackman's favourite while filming Australia. Afterwards, stop by Tourism Bowen (%07-4786 4222; www.tourismbowen.com.au; h8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-5pm Sat & Sun), about 7km south of town on the Bruce Hwy, or at the information booth (Santa Barbara Pde; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, hours vary Sat & Sun) at the beach end of Herbert St for a scoop of Bowen mango sorbet ($4).