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Northbridge, Highgate & Mt Lawley

Northbridge is the rough-edged hub of Perth's nightlife, with dozens of pubs and clubs clustered mainly around William and James Sts. Mt Lawley also has decent pubs and bars.

Northbridge Brewing CompanyMICROBREWERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.northbridgebrewingco.com.au; 44 Lake St; h8am-10pm Sun-Tue, to midnight Wed-Sat)

The four beers brewed here are decent enough, but the real attractions are the occasional guest beers on tap from around Australia. The outdoor bar adjoining the grassy expanse of Northbridge Plaza is relaxed and easygoing, and various big screens dotted around the multilevel industrial space make it a good spot to watch live sport. Go the Dockers!

Mechanics InstituteBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.mechanicsinstitutebar.com.au; 222 William St; hnoon-midnight Tue-Sat, to 10pm Sun)

Negotiate the laneway entrance around the corner on James St to discover one of Perth's most down-to-earth small bars. Share one of the big tables on the deck or nab a stool by the bar. Craft beers are on tap, and you can even order in a gourmet burger from Flipside downstairs.

LOT 20BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.lot20.co; 198-206 William St, entrance on James St; h10am-midnight Mon-Sat, to 10pm Sun)

LOT 20 is more evidence of the ongoing transformation of rough-and-ready Northbridge into the home of more intimate and sophisticated small bars. The brick-lined courtyard is perfect on a warm WA evening, and on cooler nights the cosy interior is best experienced with a few bar snacks – try the Asian-style 'Son in Law Eggs' – and wine or craft beer.

Clarence'sCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.clarences.com.au; 506 Beaufort St, Mt Lawley; h4pm-late Mon-Fri, noon-late Sat, noon-10pm Sun)

Clarence's energetic collage of small bar buzz and intimate bistro dining is a dependable spot for good times along Mt Lawley's Beaufort St after-dark strip. Menu highlights include crab tacos, and sweetcorn and saffron arancini.

Five BarCRAFT BEER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.fivebar.com.au; 560 Beaufort St, Mt Lawley; hnoon-midnight Mon-Sat, to 10pm Sun)

International and Australian craft beers – including seasonal and one-off brews from WA's best – make Mt Lawley's Five Bar worth seeking out by the discerning drinker. Wine lovers are also well catered for, and the menu leans towards classy comfort food.

Ezra PoundBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.epbar.com.au; 189 William St; h1pm-midnight Tue-Sat, to 10pm Sun)

Down a much-graffitied lane leading off William St, Ezra Pound is favoured by Northbridge's bohemian set. It's the kind of place where you can settle into a red velvet chair and sip a Tom Collins out of a jam jar. Earnest conversations about Kerouac and Kafka are strictly optional.

399BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.399bar.com; 399 William St; h4pm-midnight Mon-Sat, to 10pm Sun; W)

This friendly neighbourhood bar has booths along one side and a long bar down the other, making it easy to interact with the engaging bar staff. Cocktails are artfully crafted, and there's a serious approach to beer and wine. Nearby are lots of good, cheap Asian restaurants.

BirdBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.williamstreetbird.com; 181 William St; hnoon-midnight Mon-Sat, to 10pm Sun)

Cool indie bar with local bands, performers and DJs. Upstairs there's a brick-lined deck with city views.

Flying ScotsmanPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/scottoscottoscotto; 639 Beaufort St, Mt Lawley; h11am-midnight)

Old-style pub that attracts the Beaufort St indie crowd. A good spot for a drink before a gig up the road at the Astor.

Subiaco

Juanita'sBAR, CAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.juanitas.com.au; 341 Rokeby Rd; h9am-11pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1am Sat, noon-1am Sun)

Welcome to Perth's most eclectic small (and we do mean small) bar. Tapas, shared platters and a concise selection of beer and wine partner with rescued 1960s furniture, walls trimmed with bric-a-brac, and a few outside tables. It's all thoroughly local, very charming, and a refreshing antidote to the flash, renovated pubs elsewhere in Subiaco.

3Entertainment

Live Music

Ellington Jazz ClubJAZZ

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.ellingtonjazz.com.au; 191 Beaufort St; h6.30pm-1am Mon-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat, 5pm-midnight Sun)F

There's live jazz nightly in this handsome, intimate venue. Standing-only admission is $10, or you can book a table (per person $15 to $20) for tapas and pizza.

BakeryLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.nowbaking.com.au; 233 James St; h7pm-late)

Run by Artrage, Perth's contemporary arts festival body, the Bakery draws an arty crowd. Popular indie gigs are held almost every weekend.

AmplifierLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.amplifiercapitol.com.au; rear 383 Murray St)

The good old Amplifier is one of the best places for live (mainly indie) bands. Part of the same complex is Capitol, used mainly for DJ gigs.

MoonLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.themoon.com.au; 323 William St; h6pm-late Mon & Tue, 11am-late Wed-Sun)

Low-key, late-night cafe with singer-songwriters on Wednesday nights, jazz on Thursdays, and poetry slams on Saturday afternoons from 2pm.

UniversalLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.universalbar.com.au; 221 William St; h3pm-late Wed-Sun)

The unpretentious Universal is one of Perth's oldest bars and much-loved by soul, R&B and blues enthusiasts.

Rosemount HotelLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.rosemounthotel.com.au; cnr Angove & Fitzgerald Sts; hnoon-late )

Local and international bands play regularly in this spacious art deco pub with a laid-back beer garden.

AstorCONCERT VENUE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.liveattheastor.com.au; 659 Beaufort St)

The beautiful art deco Astor still screens the odd film but is mainly used for concerts these days.

Cabaret & Comedy

Lazy Susan's Comedy DenCOMEDY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.lazysusans.com.au; 292 Beaufort St, the Brisbane; h8.30pm Tue, Fri & Sat)

Shapiro Tuesday offers a mix of first-timers, seasoned amateurs and pros trying out new shtick (for a very reasonable $5). Friday is for more grown-up stand-ups, including some interstaters. Saturday is the Big Hoohaa – a team-based comedy wrassle. The Den is at the Brisbane Hotel.

Theatre & Classical Music

Check the West Australian newspaper for listings. Book through www.ticketek.com.au or www.ticketmaster.com.au.

State Theatre CentreTHEATRE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.statetheatrecentrewa.com.au; 174 William St)

This complex includes the 575-seat Heath Ledger Theatre and the 234-seat Studio Underground. It's home to the Black Swan State Theatre Company and Perth Theatre Company.

His Majesty's TheatreTHEATRE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.hismajestystheatre.com.au; 825 Hay St)

The majestic home to the West Australian Ballet (www.waballet.com.au) and West Australian Opera (www.waopera.asn.au), as well as lots of theatre, comedy and cabaret.

Perth Concert HallCONCERT VENUE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.perthconcerthall.com.au; 5 St Georges Tce)

Home to the Western Australian Symphony Orchestra (WASO; www.waso.com.au).

Cinema

Somerville AuditoriumCINEMA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.perthfestival.com.au; 35 Stirling Hwy; hDec-Mar)

A quintessential Perth experience, the Perth Festival's film program is held here on the University of WA's beautiful grounds surrounded by pines. Picnicking before the film is a must.

LunaCINEMA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.lunapalace.com.au; 155 Oxford St)

Art-house cinema in Leederville with Monday double features and a bar. Cheap tickets on Wednesdays.

Cinema ParadisoCINEMA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.lunapalace.com.au; 164 James St)

Art-house cinema in Northbridge. Cheap tickets on Tuesdays.

Moonlight CinemaCINEMA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.moonlight.com.au; Synergy Parklands, Kings Park; hDec-Easter)

Bring a picnic and blanket and enjoy a romantic moonlit movie; summer only.

Camelot Outdoor CinemaCINEMA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.lunapalace.com.au; 16 Lochee St, Memorial Hall; hDec-Easter)

Seated open-air cinema in Mosman Park.

Sport

In WA 'football' means Aussie Rules and during the Australian Football League (AFL) season it's hard to get locals to talk about anything but the two local teams – the West Coast Eagles (www.westcoasteagles.com.au) and the Fremantle Dockers (www.fremantlefc.com.au).

Patersons StadiumSTADIUM

(Subiaco Oval; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9381 2187; www.patersonsstadium.com.au; 250 Roberts Rd)

The home of Aussie Rules and big concerts.

WACASTADIUM

(Western Australian Cricket Association; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9265 7222; www.waca.com.au; Nelson Cres)

Main venue for interstate and international cricket.

NIB StadiumSTADIUM

(Perth Oval; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.nibstadium.com.au; Lord St)

Home to Perth Glory (www.perthglory.com.au) soccer (football) and Western Force (www.westernforce.com.au) rugby.

HBF StadiumSTADIUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.hbfstadium.com.au; Stephenson Ave, Mt Claremont)

Home to West Coast Fever (www.westcoastfever.com.au) netball.

7Shopping

Murray St and Hay St Malls are the city's shopping heartland, while Leederville and Mt Lawley feature more eclectic shops. If you're after vintage or retro style, head to Northbridge, and lower King St near Wellington St in the CBD is developing as a hub for independent retail stores and designers.

City Centre

78 RecordsMUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.78records.com.au; upstairs 255 Murray St Mall; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, from 11am Sun)

Independent record shop. Also good for vinyl and tickets to rock and indie gigs.

PigeonholeCLOTHING, ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.pigeonhole.com; 9 Shafto Lane; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 9pm Fri)

Hip local and international clothing, and stylish retro accessories and gifts.

Northbridge, Highgate & Mt Lawley

William ToppDESIGN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.williamtopp.com; 452 William St; h11am-6pm Tue-Fri, to 5pm Sat, to 4pm Sun)

Cool designer knick-knacks.

Future ShelterHOMEWARES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.futureshelter.com; 56 Angove St, North Perth; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat)

Quirky clothing, gifts and homewares designed and manufactured locally. Surrounding Angove St is an emerging hip North Perth neighbourhood.

PlanetBOOKS, MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.planetvideo.com.au; 636-638 Beaufort St; h10am-late)

Books, CDs and obscure DVDs.

Leederville

Leederville's Oxford St is the place for boutiques, eclectic music and bookshops.

Atlas DivineCLOTHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 121 Oxford St; h9am-9pm)

Hip women's and men's clobber: jeans, quirky tees, dresses etc.

Subiaco & Kings Park

Rokeby Rd and Hay St boast fashion, art and classy gifts.

IndigenartARTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.mossensongalleries.com.au; 115 Hay St; h11am-4pm Wed-Sat)

Indigenous art from around Australia, but with a focus on WA artists. Works include weavings, paintings on canvas, bark and paper, and sculpture.

Aboriginal Art & Craft GalleryARTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.aboriginalgallery.com.au; Fraser Ave; h10.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat & Sun)

Work from around WA; more populist than high-end or collectable.

Aspects of Kings ParkARTS, SOUVENIRS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.aspectsofkingspark.com.au; Fraser Ave; h9am-5pm)

Australian art, craft and books.

8Information

Emergency

Police StationPOLICE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %13 14 44; www.police.wa.gov.au; 2 Fitzgerald St)

Sexual Assault Resource CentreEMERGENCY

(%08-9340 1828, freecall 1800 199 888; www.kemh.health.wa.gov.au/services/sarc; h24hr)

Twenty-four-hour emergency service.

Internet Access

State Library of WAINTERNET

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.slwa.wa.gov.au; Perth Cultural Centre; h9am-8pm Mon-Thu, 10am-5.30pm Fri-Sun; W)

Free wi-fi and internet access.

Media

Drum Media (www.facebook.com/drumperth) Music, film and culture listings.

Go West (www.gowesternaustralia.com.au) Backpacker magazine with information on seasonal work opportunities.

Urban Walkabout (www.urbanwalkabout.com) Eating, drinking and shopping highlights in key inner-Perth neighbourhoods and Fremantle.

West Australian (www.thewest.com.au) Local newspaper with entertainment and cinema listings.

X-Press Magazine (www.xpressmag.com.au) A good online source of live-music information. Also available as an app.

Medical Services

Lifecare DentalHOSPITAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9221 2777; www.dentistsinperth.com.au; 419 Wellington St; h8am-8pm)

In Forrest Chase.

Royal Perth HospitalHOSPITAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9224 2244; www.rph.wa.gov.au; Victoria Sq)

In central Perth.

Travel Medicine CentreHOSPITAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9321 7888; www.travelmed.com.au; 5 Mill St; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri)

Travel-specific advice and vaccinations.

Post

Main Post OfficePOST OFFICE

(GPO; GOOGLE MAP ; %13 13 18; 3 Forrest Pl; h8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-12.30pm Sat)

Central location near the bus and train station.

Tourist Information

i-City Information KioskTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; Murray St Mall; h9.30am-4.30pm Mon-Thu & Sat, to 8pm Fri, 11am-3.30pm Sun)

Volunteers answer questions and run walking tours.

WA Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %1800 812 808, 08-9483 1111; www.bestofwa.com.au; 55 William St; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-4.30pm Sat, 11am-4.30pm Sun)

Excellent resource for information across WA.

Useful Websites

AHeatseeker (www.heatseeker.com.au) Gig guide and ticketing.

APerthNow (www.perthnow.com.au) Perth and WA news and restaurant reviews.

AScoop (www.scoop.com.au) Entertainment and dining information.

AWhat's On (www.whatson.com.au) Events and travel information.

8Getting There & Away

Air

For details on flights to Perth from international, interstate and other Western Australian destinations, see the Transport chapter.

Train

Transwa ( GOOGLE MAP ; %1300 662 205; www.transwa.wa.gov.au) runs the following train services:

AAustralind (twice daily) Perth to Pinjarra ($17, 1¼ hours) and Bunbury ($31, 2½ hours).

AAvonLink (daily) East Perth to Toodyay ($17, 1¼ hours) and Northam ($20, 1½ hours).

AProspector (daily) East Perth to Kalgoorlie-Boulder ($82, seven hours).

8Getting Around

To/From the Airport

The domestic and international terminals of Perth's airport are 10km and 13km east of Perth respectively, near Guildford. Taxi fares to the city are around $40 from the domestic and international terminals, and about $60 to Fremantle.

Connect (%1300 666 806; www.perthairportconnect.com.au) runs shuttles to and from central accommodation and transport options in the city centre (one way/return $15/30, every 50 minutes). Bookings are recommended for groups.

Transperth buses 36, 37 and 40 travel to the domestic airport from St Georges Tce (stop 10121), near William St ($4.40, 40 minutes, every 10 to 30 minutes, hourly after 7pm). A free transfer bus links the domestic and international terminals.

Car & Motorcycle

Driving in the city takes a bit of practice, as some streets are one way and many aren't signed. There are plenty of car-parking buildings in the central city but no free parks. For unmetered street parking you'll need to look well away from the main commercial strips and check the signs carefully.

Some local Perth-based hire companies:

Backpacker Car RentalsCAR RENTAL

(%08-9430 8869; www.backpackercarrentals.com.au; 235 Hampton Rd, South Fremantle)

Good-value local agency.

Bayswater Car RentalCAR RENTAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9325 1000; www.bayswatercarrental.com.au)

Local company with four branches in Perth and Fremantle.

Britz RentalsCAR RENTAL

(%1800 331 454; www.britz.com.au)

Hires fully equipped 4WDs fitted out as campervans, popular on the roads of northern WA. Britz has offices in all the state capitals, as well as Perth and Broome, so one-way rentals are possible.

Campabout OzCAR RENTAL

(%08-9301 2765; www.campaboutoz.com.au)

Campervans, 4WDs and motorbikes.

ScootamoréCAR RENTAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9380 6580; www.scootamore.com.au; 356a Rokeby Rd, Subiaco; day/3 days/week/month $45/111/200/400)

Hires 50cc scooters with helmets (compulsory) and insurance included (for over 21 year olds).

Public Transport

Transperth (%13 62 13; www.transperth.wa.gov.au) operates Perth's public buses, trains and ferries. There are Transperth information offices at Perth station (Wellington St), Wellington St bus station, Perth underground station (off Murray St) and the Esplanade Busport (Mounts Bay Rd). There's a good online journey planner.

From the central city, the following fares apply for all public transport:

AFree Transit Zone (FTZ) Covers the central commercial area, bounded (roughly) by Fraser Ave, Kings Park Rd, Thomas St, Newcastle St, Parry St, Lord St and the river (including the City West and Claisebrook train stations, to the west and east respectively).

AZone 1 Includes the city centre and the inner suburbs ($2.90).

AZone 2 Fremantle, Guildford and the beaches as far north as Sorrento ($4.40).

AZone 3 Hillarys Boat Harbour (AQWA), the Swan Valley and Kalamunda ($5.30).

AZone 5 Rockingham ($7.80).

AZone 7 Mandurah ($10.30).

ADayRider Unlimited travel after 9am weekdays and all day on the weekend in any zone ($12.10).

AFamilyRider Lets two adults and up to five children travel for a total of $12.10 on weekends, after 6pm weekdays and after 9am on weekdays during school holidays.

If you're in Perth for a while, consider buying a SmartRider card, covering bus, train and ferry travel. It's $10 to purchase, then you add value to your card. The technology deducts the fare as you go, as long as you tap in and tap out (touch your card to the electronic reader) every time you travel, including within the FTZ. The SmartRider works out 15% cheaper than buying single tickets and automatically caps itself at the DayRider rate if you're avoiding the morning rush hour.

Bus

As well as regular buses the FTZ is well covered during the day by the three free Central Area Transit (CAT) services. The Yellow and Red CATs operate east–west routes, Yellow sticking mainly to Wellington St, and Red looping roughly east on Murray St and west on Hay St. The Blue Cat does a figure eight through Northbridge and the south end of the city; this is the only one to run late – until 1am on Friday and Saturday nights only. Pick up a copy of the free timetable (widely available on buses and elsewhere) for the exact routes and stops. They run every five to eight minutes during weekdays and every 15 minutes on weekends. Digital displays at the stops advise when the next bus is due.

The metropolitan area is serviced by a wide network of Transperth buses. Pick up timetables from any of the Transperth information centres or use the online journey planner.

Ferry

The only ferry runs every 20 to 30 minutes between Barrack St Jetty and Mends St Jetty in South Perth; use it to get to the zoo or for a bargain from-the-river glimpse of the Perth skyline.

Train

Transperth operates five train lines from around 5.20am to midnight weekdays and until about 2am Saturday and Sunday. Your rail ticket can also be used on Transperth buses and ferries within the ticket's zone. You're free to take your bike on the train during nonpeak times. The lines and useful stops are as follows:

AArmadale Thornlie line Perth, Burswood.

AFremantle line Perth, City West, West Leederville, Subiaco, Shenton Park, Swanbourne, Cottesloe, North Fremantle, Fremantle.

AJoondalup line Esplanade, Perth Underground, Leederville.

AMandurah line Perth Underground, Esplanade, Rockingham, Mandurah.

AMidland line Perth, East Perth, Mt Lawley, Guildford, Midland.

Taxi

Perth has a decent system of metered taxis, though the distances in the city make frequent use costly and on busy nights you may have trouble flagging a taxi down on the street. There are ranks throughout the city. The two main companies are Swan Taxis (%13 13 30; www.swantaxis.com.au) and Black & White (%13 10 08; www.bwtaxi.com.au), both of which have wheelchair-accessible cabs.

Fremantle

Pop 28,100

The hippest city in Australia? Ride the train 20km south of Perth and find out. Defined by a classic cache of Victorian and Edwardian architecture, ‘Freo’ is a raffish harbour town with sea-salty soul to burn. It’s an isolated place – closer to Singapore than Sydney. But like any port, the world washes in on the tide and washes out again, leaving the locals buzzing with global Zeitgeist.

Fremantle thrums with live-music rooms, hipster bars, boutique hotels, left-field bookshops, craft-beer breweries, Indian Ocean seafood shacks, buskers, beaches and students on the run from the books. It’s an engaging place to base yourself for a few days (…especially if the local AFL team, the Fremantle Dockers, have been winning).

History

This was an important area for the Wadjuk Noongar people, as it was a hub of trading paths. It was occupied mainly in summer, when the Wadjuk would base themselves here to fish. In winter they would head further inland, avoiding seasonal flooding.

Fremantle's European history began when the HMS Challenger landed in 1829. Like Perth, the settlement made little progress until convict labour was used. The port blossomed during the gold rush and many of its distinctive buildings date from this period. It wasn't until 1987, when Fremantle hosted the America's Cup, that it transformed itself from a sleepy port town into today's vibrant, artsy city.

Fremantle

1Top Sights

1Fremantle PrisonF2

2Western Australian Museum – MaritimeA2

3Western Australian Museum – Shipwreck GalleriesB3

1Sights

4Bon Scott StatueC3

5Esplanade ReserveC3

6Fremantle MarketsD3

7John Curtin StatueD2

8Pietro Porcelli StatueD2

9Round HouseB3

10To the FishermenC4

2Activities, Courses & Tours

11Captain Cook CruisesB1

12Fremantle Tram ToursD2

13Oceanic CruisesB1

14STS Leeuwin IIB2

4Sleeping

15Fothergills of FremantleF1

16Fremantle Prison YHA HostelE2

17Hougoumont HotelD2

18Norfolk HotelE3

19Old Firestation BackpackersC2

20PiratesD3

21Port Mill B&BD3

22Terrace Central B&B HotelE3

5Eating

23Bread in CommonC3

24Gino'sD2

25Little CreaturesC4

26Moore & MooreC3

27Raw KitchenE2

28Wild PoppyE4

6Drinking & Nightlife

Little CreaturesC4

29MonkD3

Norfolk HotelE3

30Sail & AnchorD2

31WhisperD3

32Who's Your MummaE4

3Entertainment

33Fly by Night Musicians ClubE2

34Luna on SXD3

35X-Wray CafeD3

7Shopping

36Chart & Map ShopD3

37Didgeridoo BreathC1

38JapingkaC2

39Love in TokyoC2

40MANY6160D2

41Mills RecordsD2

42New EditionC2

1Sights

oFremantle PrisonHISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9336 9200; www.fremantleprison.com.au; 1 The Terrace; single day tour adult/child $20/11, combined day tours $28/19, Torchlight Tour $26/16, Tunnels Tour adult/child over 12 $60/40; h9am-5.30pm)

With its foreboding 5m-high walls, the old convict-era prison still dominates Fremantle. Daytime tour options include the Doing Time Tour taking in the kitchens, men's cells and solitary-confinement cells. The Great Escapes Tour recounts famous inmates and takes in the women's prison. Book ahead for the Torchlight Tour focusing on macabre aspects of the prison's history, and the 2½-hour Tunnels Tour which includes an underground boat ride and subterranean tunnels built by prisoners.

oWestern Australian Museum – MaritimeMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.museum.wa.gov.au; Victoria Quay; adult/child museum $10/3, submarine $10/3, museum & submarine $16/5; h9.30am-5pm)

Housed in an intriguing sail-shaped building on the harbour, just west of the city centre, the Maritime museum is a fascinating exploration of WA's relationship with the ocean. Well-presented displays range from yacht racing to Aboriginal fish traps and the sandalwood trade. If you're not claustrophobic, take an hour-long tour of the submarine HMAS Ovens. The vessel was part of the Australian Navy's fleet from 1969 to 1997. Tours leave every half-hour from 10am to 3.30pm.

oWestern Australian Museum – Shipwreck GalleriesMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.museum.wa.gov.au; Cliff St; admission by donation; h9.30am-5pm)

Located within an 1852 commissariat store, the Shipwreck Galleries are considered the finest display of maritime archaeology in the southern hemisphere. The highlight is the Batavia Gallery, where a section of the hull of Dutch merchant ship Batavia, wrecked in 1629, is displayed. Nearby is a large stone gate, intended as an entrance to Batavia Castle, which was being carried when it sank.

Round HouseHISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9336 6897; www.fremantleroundhouse.com.au; Captains Lane; admission by donation; h10.30am-3.30pm)

Built from 1830 to 1831, this 12-sided stone prison is WA's oldest surviving building. It was the site of the colony's first hangings, and was later used for holding Aboriginal people before they were taken to Rottnest Island. On the hilltop outside is the Signal Station, where at 1pm daily a time ball and cannon blast were used to alert seamen to the correct time. The ceremony is reenacted daily; book ahead if you want to fire the cannon.

Fremantle Arts CentreGALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.fac.org.au; 1 Finnerty St; h10am-5pm)F

An impressive neo-Gothic building surrounded by lovely elm-shaded gardens, the Fremantle Arts Centre was constructed by convict labourers as a lunatic asylum in the 1860s. Saved from demolition in the 1960s, it houses interesting exhibitions and the excellent Canvas cafe. During summer there are concerts, courses and workshops.

Fremantle MarketsMARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.fremantlemarkets.com.au; cnr South Tce & Henderson St; h8am-8pm Fri, 8am-6pm Sat & Sun)F

Originally opened in 1897, these colourful markets were reopened in 1975 and today draw slow-moving crowds, combing over souvenirs such as plastic boomerangs and swan-shaped magnets. The fresh-produce section is a good place to stock up on snacks.

Bon Scott StatueSTATUE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

The most popular of Fremantle's public sculptures is Greg James' statue of Bon Scott (1946–80), strutting on a Marshall amplifier in Fishing Boat Harbour. The AC/DC singer moved to Fremantle with his family in 1956 and his ashes are interred in Fremantle Cemetery ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Carrington St). Enter the cemetery at the entrance near the corner of High and Carrington Sts. Bon's plaque is on the left around 15m along the path.

Gold Rush Buildings

Fremantle boomed during the WA gold rush in the late 19th century, and many wonderful buildings remain that were constructed during, or shortly before, this period. High St, particularly around the bottom end, has some excellent examples including several old hotels.

Public Sculptures

Also in Fishing Boat Harbour is To The Fishermen, a cluster of bronze figures, unloading and carrying their catch up from the wharf. There’s a lively statue of former member for Fremantle and wartime Labor prime minister John Curtin (1885–1945) in Kings Sq, outside the Town Hall. Nearby is a Greg James sculpture of fellow sculptor Pietro Porcelli (1872–1943), in the act of making a bust.The most popular of Fremantle’s public sculptures is Greg James’ statue of Bon Scott (1946–80), strutting on a Marshall amplifier in Fishing Boat Harbour. The AC/DC singer moved to Fremantle with his family in 1956 and his ashes are interred in Fremantle Cemetery. Enter the cemetery at the entrance near the corner of High and Carrington Sts. Bon’s plaque is on the left around 15m along the path.

Beaches & Parks

Green spaces around Fremantle include Esplanade Reserve ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Marine Tce), shaded by Norfolk Island pines and dividing the city from Fishing Boat Harbour. During summer, nearby Bathers Beach hosts a Saturday night market with music and food from 5pm to 9pm. A new waterfront restaurant also opened there in late 2014. South Beach is sheltered, swimmable, only 1.5km from the city centre and on the free CAT bus route.The next major beach is Coogee Beach, 6km further south.

2Activities

Fremantle TrailsWALKING

(www.visitfremantle.com.au)

Pick up trailcards from the visitor centre for 11 self-guided walking tours: Art and Culture, Convict, CY O'Connor (a pioneering civil engineer), Discovery (a Fremantle once-over), Fishing Boat Harbour, Hotels and Breweries, Maritime Heritage, Manjaree Heritage (Indigenous), Retail & Fashion, Waterfront and Writers.

Oceanic CruisesWHALE WATCHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9325 1191; www.oceaniccruises.com.au; adult/child $69/29; hmid-Sep–early Dec)

Departs B Shed, Victoria Quay, at 10.15am for a two-hour tour. Days of operation vary by month, so check the website.

STS Leeuwin IISAILING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9430 4105; www.sailleeuwin.com; Berth B; adult/child $99/69; hNov-mid Apr)

Take a three-hour trip on a 55m, three-masted tall ship; see the website for details of morning, afternoon or twilight sails. Sailings are from Friday to Sunday.

TTours

Fremantle Tram ToursBUS TOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9433 6674; www.fremantletrams.com.au; ghostly tour adult/child $80/60, lunch & tram adult/child $89/54, triple tour adult/child $80/30, tram & prison adult/child $45/14)

Looking like a heritage tram, this bus departs from the Town Hall on an all-day hop-on, hop-off circuit around the city (adult/child $26/5). The Ghostly Tour runs from 6.45pm to 10.30pm Friday and visits the prison, Round House and Fremantle Arts Centre (former asylum) by torchlight. Combos include Lunch & Tram (tram plus a lunch cruise on river), Triple Tour (tram, river cruise and Perth sightseeing bus), and Tram & Prison (incorporating the tram and Fremantle prison).

Captain Cook CruisesBOAT TOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9325 3341; www.captaincookcruises.com.au; C Shed; adult/child $28/16)

Cruises between Fremantle and Perth (adult/child $28/16) departing Fremantle at 11.05am, 12.45pm and 3.30pm (the last is one way only). A three-hour lunch cruise departs at 12.45pm (adult/child $69/46).

Fremantle Indigenous Heritage ToursWALKING TOUR

(%0405 630 606; www.indigenouswa.com; adult/child $50/15; h1.30pm Sat)

Highly regarded tour covering the history of Fremantle and the Nyoongar and Wadjuk people. Book through the Fremantle visitors centre.

Two Feet & A HeartbeatWALKING TOUR

(%1800 459 388; www.twofeet.com.au; per person $20-40; h10am daily)

Operated by a younger, energetic crew, tours focus on Fremantle's often rambunctious history. 'Tight Arse Tuesdays' are good value.

zFestivals & Events

LanewayMUSIC

(www.fremantle.lanewayfestival.com; hearly Feb)

WA's skinny-jean and floppy-fringe hipsters party to the planet's up-and-coming indie acts. The ubercool festival takes place around Fremantle's West End and Esplanade Reserve.

West Coast Blues 'n' Roots FestivalMUSIC

(www.westcoastbluesnroots.com.au; hlate Mar-mid Apr)

Interpreting its remit widely, recent festivals have featured Steve Earle, Grace Jones, Elvis Costello and My Morning Jacket.

Blessing of the FleetRELIGIOUS

(www.fremantleseafoodfestival.com.au; Esplanade Reserve, Fishing Boat Harbour; hlate Oct)

An October tradition since 1948, brought to Fremantle by immigrants from Molfetta, Italy. It includes the procession of the Molfettese Our Lady of Martyrs statue (carried by men) and the Sicilian Madonna di Capo d'Orlando (carried by women), from St Patrick's Basilica (47 Adelaide St) to Fishing Boat Harbour, where the blessing takes place. An associated seafood festival also takes place nearby.

Fremantle FestivalCULTURAL

(www.fremantle.wa.gov.au/FESTIVALS; hlate Oct-early Nov)

In spring the city's streets and concert venues come alive with parades and performances in Australia's longest-running festival.

4Sleeping

Fremantle Prison YHA HostelHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9433 4305; http://www.yha.com.au/hostels/wa/perth-surrounds/fremantle-prison-yha/; 6A The Terrace, 6160; dm from $36-40, private room $156; aW)

Newly opened in early 2015, Fremantle's iconic prison has a hostel wing with a mix of dorm-style accommodation and private rooms. Slightly more upmarket options include a private bathroom.

PiratesHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9335 6635; www.piratesbackpackers.com.au; 11 Essex St; dm $31-33, r $80; iW)

Attracting a diverse international crew, this sun- and fun-filled hostel in the thick of the Freo action is a top spot to socialise. Rooms are small and reasonably basic, but the bathrooms are fresh and clean. The kitchen area is well equipped, there's a shady courtyard, and eye-catching marine murals remind you that an ocean swim is minutes away.

Old Firestation BackpackersHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9430 5454; www.old-firestation.net; 18 Phillimore St; dm $28-32, d $75-80; iW)

There's entertainment aplenty in this converted fire station: free internet, foosball, movies and a sunny courtyard. Dorms have natural light and afternoon sea breezes, and there's a female-only section. The hippy vibe culminates in late-night guitar-led singalongs around the campfire; bring earplugs if you value sleep.

Woodman Point Holiday ParkCAMPGROUND

( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9434 1433; www.aspenparks.com.au; 132 Cockburn Rd; sites for 2 people $47-49, d $120-215; aiWs)

A particularly pleasant spot, 10km south of Fremantle. It's usually quiet, and its location makes it feel more summer beach holiday than outer-Freo staging post.

oHougoumont HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-6160 6800; www.hougoumonthotel.com.au; 15 Bannister St; d $200-255)

Standard 'cabin' rooms are definitely compact, but very stylish and efficiently designed, and you can't beat the central location of this recently opened boutique hotel. Top-end toiletries, a hip, breezy ambience, and complimentary late-afternoon wine and snacks for guests reinforce the Hougoumont's refreshingly different approach to accommodation. Service from the multinational team is relaxed but professional.

Fothergills of FremantleB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9335 6784; www.fothergills.net.au; 18-22 Ord St; r $195-245; aW)

Naked bronze women sprout from the front garden, while a life-size floral cow shelters on the verandah of these neighbouring mansions on the hill. Inside, the decor is in keeping with their venerable age (built in 1892), aside from the contemporary art scattered about – including some wonderful Aboriginal pieces. Breakfast is served in a sunny conservatory.

Terrace Central B&B HotelB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9335 6600; www.terracecentral.com.au; 79-85 South Tce; d $180-220; aiW)

Terrace Central may be a character-filled B&B at heart, but its larger size gives it the feel of a boutique hotel. The main section is created from an 1888 bakery and an adjoined row of terrace houses, and there are modern one- and two-bedroom apartments out the back. You'll find ample off-street parking.

Port Mill B&BB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9433 3832; www.portmillbb.com.au; 3/17 Essex St; r $199-299; aW)

One of the most luxurious B&Bs in town, Port Mill is clearly the love child of Paris and Freo. Crafted from local limestone (it was built in 1862 as a mill), inside it's all modern Parisian style, with gleaming taps, contemporary French furniture and wrought-iron balconies. French doors open out to the sun-filled decks, where you can tinkle the china on your breakfast platter.

Norfolk HotelHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9335 5405; www.norfolkhotel.com.au; 47 South Tce; s/d without bathroom $90/120, d with bathroom $150; aW)

While eucalypts and elms stand quietly in the sun-streaked beer garden, the old limestone Norfolk harbours a secret upstairs: its rooms. Far above your standard pub digs, they've all been tastefully decorated in muted tones and crisp white linen, and there's a communal sitting room. It can be noisy on weekends, but the bar closes at midnight.

5Eating

City Centre & South Fremantle

oBread in CommonBISTRO, BAKERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.breadincommon.com.au; 43 Pakenham St; shared platters $12-14, mains $21-26; h10am-10pm Mon-Fri, 9am-10pm Sat & Sun)

Be initially lured by the comforting aroma of the inhouse bakery, before staying on for cheese and charcuterie platters, or larger dishes such as chargrilled chicken with corn, ginger and coriander. There's an equal focus on comfort food and culinary flair, while big shared tables and a laid-back warehouse ambience encourage conversation over WA wines and Aussie craft beers and ciders.

Moore & MooreCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.mooreandmoorecafe.com; 46 Henry St; mains $11-20; h7am-4pm; W)

An urban-chic cafe that spills into the adjoining art gallery and overflows into a flagstoned courtyard. With great coffee, good cooked breakfasts, pastries, wraps and free wi-fi, it's a great place to linger. Look forward to the company of a few Freo hipsters, and the international crew of students studying at Fremantle's University of Notre Dame.

Public & CoBISTRO, TAPAS

(www.publicandco.com.au; 25 Duoro St; shared plates $15-24, mains & pizza $15-28; h6pm-10pm Wed-Fri, 8am-4pm & 6-10pm Sat, 8am-3pm Sun)

Around 2.5km from central Fremantle, Public & Co is worth the journey for a relaxed meal in this spacious and airy corner bungalow. Shared plates (most with a Med or Asian spin), wood-fired pizza and top-notch burgers all reinforce a laid-back, WA-style approach to living. It also has one of the best craft-beer selections in Perth.

CanvasCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.canvasatfremantleartscentre.com; Fremantle Arts Centre; mains $12-25; h8am-3pm Mon-Fri, 8am-4pm Sat & Sun; W)

Freo's best cafe is in the shaded courtyard of the Fremantle Arts Centre with a menu channelling Middle Eastern, Spanish and North African influences. Breakfast highlights include baked-egg dishes – try the Israeli-style Red Shakshuka – and lunch presents everything from jerk chicken wraps to bouillabaisse and Tasmanian salmon. The concise drinks list includes craft beer, ciders and wine.

Wild PoppyCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2 Wray Ave; breakfast $10-18, lunch $16-22; h7am-4pm; W)

Lace doilies, kitschy furniture and a stupendous collection of retro portaits and landscapes make this hip cafe in South Freo worth seeking out. Soup and salad specials team with good coffee, beer and cider, and the chilli eggs are a great way to start the day. For lunch ask if the prawn laksa is available.

Raw KitchenVEGETARIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.therawkitchen.com.au; 181a High St; mains $18-24; h11am-4pm Mon-Thu, 11am-9pm Fri-Sun; v)S

Vegan, organic and sustainable, and therefore very Freo. Reset your chakra and boost your energy levels with the superhealthy but still very tasty food in this funky, brick-lined warehouse. A lot (but not all) of the menu showcases raw ingredients, but there's no trade-off for taste. Gluten-free beer and sustainably produced wine mean you don't have to be too virtuous.

Gino'sCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.ginoscafe.com.au; 1 South Tce; mains $17-31; h6am-late; W)

Old-school Gino's is Freo's most famous cafe, and while it's become a tourist attraction in its own right, the locals still treat it as their second living room, only with better coffee. You'll need to order and pay, then collect your own coffee.

Fishing Boat Harbour

Little CreaturesPUB FOOD

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.littlecreatures.com.au; 40 Mews Rd; pizzas $19-24, shared plates $8-24; h10am-midnight Mon-Fri, from 9am Sat & Sun; W)

Little Creatures is classic Freo: harbour views, fantastic brews (made on the premises) and excellent food. In a cavernous converted boatshed overlooking the harbour, it can get chaotic at times, but a signature Pale Ale with a wood-fired pizza will be worth the wait. More substantial shared plates include kangaroo with tomato chutney and grilled prawn skewers. No bookings.

North Fremantle

FlipsideBURGERS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.flipsideburgers.com.au; 239 Queen Victoria St, North Fremantle; burgers $11.50-15.50; h5.30-9pm Tue-Thu, noon-2.30pm Thu, noon-9pm Fri-Sun)

Gourmet burgers with the option of dining in next door at Mrs Browns.

6Drinking & Entertainment

Most of Fremantle's big pubs are lined up along South Tce and High St. They've long been incubators for rock kids, turning out WA bands like the John Butler Trio, San Cisco and Tame Impala.

Sail & AnchorPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.sailandanchor.com.au; 64 South Tce; h11am-midnight Mon-Sat, to 10pm Sun)

Welcome to the best destination for the travelling beer geek in Western Australia. Built in 1854, this Fremantle landmark has been impressively restored to recall much of its former glory. Downstairs is big and beer focused, with 27 taps delivering an ever-changing range of local and international craft beers. Occasional live music and decent bar food complete the picture.

Little CreaturesBREWERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.littlecreatures.com.au; 40 Mews Rd, Fishing Boat Harbour; h10am-midnight Mon-Fri, from 9am Sat & Sun)

Try the Little Creatures Pale Ale and Pilsner, and other beers and ciders under the White Rabbit and Pipsqueak labels. Keep an eye out also for one-off Shift Brewers' Stash beers. Creatures NextDoor is an adjacent lounge bar with regular live entertainment and DJs. Live jazz kicks off at 4.30pm on Sundays, and there's live comedy ($30) on Saturday nights from 8pm.

Who's Your MummaBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/whosyourmummabar; cnr Wray Ave & South Tce; h4pm-midnight Mon-Sat, noon-10pm Sun)

Industrial-chic lightbulbs and polished-concrete floors are softened by recycled timber at the laid-back Who's Your Mumma. An eclectic crew of South Freo locals crowd in for excellent cocktails, WA craft beer and moreish bar snacks including fluffy pork buns. Taco Thursdays are definitely good value with a Mexican accent.

Norfolk HotelPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.norfolkhotel.com.au; 47 South Tce; h11am-midnight Mon-Sat, to 10pm Sun)

Slow down to Freo pace at this 1887 pub. Interesting guest beers create havoc for the indecisive drinker, and the pub food and pizzas are very good. We love the heritage limestone courtyard, especially when sunlight peeks through the elms and eucalypts. Downstairs, The Odd Fellow channels a bohemian small-bar vibe, and hosts regular live gigs from Tuesday to Saturday.

MonkMICROBREWERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.themonk.com.au; 33 South Tce; h11.30am-late Mon-Fri, 8.30am-late Sat & Sun)

Park yourself on the spacious front terrace or in the chic interior, partly fashioned from recycled railway sleepers, and enjoy The Monk's own brews (kolsch, mild, wheat, porter, rauch, pale ale). The bar snacks and pizzas are also good, and guest beers and regular seasonal brews always draw a knowledgeable crowd of local craft-beer nerds.

Mrs BrownsBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.mrsbrownbar.com.au; 241 Queen Victoria St, North Fremantle; h4.30pm-midnight Tue-Thu, noon-midnight Fri-Sun)

Exposed bricks and a copper bar combine with retro and antique furniture to create North Fremantle's most atmospheric bar. The music could include all those cult bands you thought were your personal secret, and an eclectic menu of beer, wine and tapas targets the more discerning, slightly older bar hound. And you can order in burgers from Flipside next door.

WhisperWINE BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.whisperwinebar.com.au; 1/15 Essex St; hnoon-late Wed-Sun)

In a lovely heritage building, this classy French-themed wine bar also does shared plates of charcuterie and cheese.

Fly by Night Musicians ClubLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.flybynight.org; Parry St)

Variety is the key at Fly by Night, a not-for-profit club that's been run by musos for musos for years. All kinds perform here, and many local bands made a start here. It's opposite the car park below the old Fremantle Prison.

X-Wray CafeLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/xwray.fremantle; 3-13 Essex St; h7am-midnight Mon-Sat, to 10pm Sun)

There's something on every night (live jazz, rock, open piano) at this hipster hang-out, comprising a smallish indoor area and a large canvas-covered terrace. Light meals are available, kicking off with breakfasts.

Mojo'sLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.mojosbar.com.au; 237 Queen Victoria St, North Fremantle; h7pm-late)

Local and national bands (mainly Aussie rock and indie) and DJs play at this small place, and there's a sociable beer garden out the back. First Friday of the month is reggae night; every Monday is open-mic night.

Luna on SXCINEMA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.lunapalace.com.au; Essex St)

Art-house cinema between Essex and Norfolk Sts. Cheaper Wednesday tickets.

7Shopping

The bottom end of High St is the place for interesting and quirky shopping. Fashion stores run along Market St, towards the train station. Queen Victoria St in North Fremantle is the place to go for antiques.

JapingkaARTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.japingka.com.au; 47 High St; h10am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, noon-5pm Sat & Sun)

Specialising in Aboriginal fine art from WA and beyond. Purchases come complete with extensive notes about the works and the artists that painted them.

FoundARTS, CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.fac.org.au; 1 Finnerty St; h10am-5pm)

The Fremantle Arts Centre shop stocks an inspiring range of WA art and craft.

Love in TokyoCLOTHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.loveintokyo.com.au; 61-63 High St; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, noon-4pm Sun)

Local designer turning out gorgeously fashioned fabrics for women.

New EditionBOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.newedition.com.au; cnr High & Henry Sts; h9am-6pm)

Recently relocated to a sunny corner location, and still a bookworm's dream with comfy armchairs for browsing.

Didgeridoo BreathARTS, CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.diggeridoobreath.com; 6 Market St; h10.30am-5pm)

The planet's biggest selection of didgeridoos, Indigenous Australian books and CDs, and how-to-play lessons ranging from one hour to four weeks. You'll probably hear the shop before you see it.

MANY6160ARTS, CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.many6160.com; 2 Newman Ct; h10am-5pm Fri-Sun)

A boho mash-up of local artists' studios and pop-up galleries and shops fills the spacious ground floor of the former Myer department store.

Mills RecordsMUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.mills.com.au; 22 Adelaide St; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun)

Music, including some rarities, and concert tickets. Check out the 'Local's Board' for recordings by Freo and WA acts.

Chart & Map ShopMAPS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.chartandmapshop.com.au; 14 Collie St; h10am-5pm)

Maps and travel guides.

8Information

Fremantle City LibraryINTERNET

( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9432 9766; www.frelibrary.wordpress.com; Kings Sq, Town Hall; h9.30am-5.30pm Mon, Fri & Sat, to 8pm Tue-Thu; W)

Free wi-fi and internet terminals.

Fremantle HospitalHOSPITAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9431 3333; www.fhhs.health.wa.gov.au; Alma St)

At the edge of central Fremantle.

Post OfficePOST OFFICE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %13 13 18; 1/13 Market St; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri)

Centrally located.

Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9431 7878; www.visitfremantle.com.au; Kings Sq, Town Hall; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat, 10am-4pm Sun)

Bookings for accommodation, tours and hire cars.

8Getting There & Around

Fremantle sits within Zone 2 of the Perth public-transport system, Transperth (%13 62 13; www.transperth.wa.gov.au), and is only 30 minutes away by train. There are numerous buses between Perth's city centre and Fremantle, including routes 103, 106, 107, 111 and 158. There is also a Connect airport shuttle.

Another very pleasant way to get here from Perth is by the 1¼-hour river cruise run by Captain Cook Cruises.

There are numerous one-way streets and parking meters in Freo. It's easy enough to travel by foot or on the free CAT bus service, which takes in all the major sites on a continuous loop every 10 minutes from 7.30am to 6.30pm on weekdays, until 9pm on Fridays, and from 10am to 6.30pm on the weekend.

Bicycles ( GOOGLE MAP ; Fremantle Visitor Centre, Kings Sq; h9.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, to 3.30pm Sat, 10.30am-3.30pm Sun) can be rented for free at the visitor centre, an ideal way to get around Freo’s storied streets. A refundable bond of $200 applies.

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