Brisbane & Around

Brisbane & Around

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Why Go?

Australia’s most underrated city? Booming Brisbane is an energetic river town on the way up, with an edgy arts scene, pumping nightlife, and great coffee and restaurants. Lush parks and historic buildings complete the picture, all folded into the elbows of the meandering Brisbane River.

Brisbanites are out on the streets: the weather is brilliant and so are the bodies. Fit-looking locals get up early to go jogging, swimming, cycling, kayaking or rock climbing, or just to walk the dog. And when it's too hot outside, Brisbane's subcultural undercurrents run cool and deep, with bookshops, globally inspired restaurants, cafes, bars and band rooms aplenty.

East of 'Brizzy' is Moreton Bay, with its low-lying sandy isles, beaches and passing parade of whales, turtles and dolphins. To the west is the rural inland hub of Toowoomba (also underrated) and the surprising Granite Belt Wine Region, which bottles up some impressive drops.

When to Go

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AJan Brisbane swelters during summer, making it the perfect time to head to North Stradbroke Island.

AMay–Aug Cool, mild temperatures (bring a jacket) and clear skies – Brisbane is at its best!

ASep Spring has sprung. Warm temperatures and the very arty Brisbane Festival.

Brisbane & Around Highlights

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1 Visiting Brisbane's world-class Gallery of Modern Art, followed by a paddle at Streets Beach in the South Bank Parklands.

2 Catching some live comedy at the Brisbane Powerhouse, before a night on the tiles in Fortitude Valley.

3 Checking out some bookshops, live bands and bars in Brisbane's West End.

4 Roaming along the North Gorge Headlands Walk on North Stradbroke Island, spotting turtles, rays and dolphins offshore.

5 Going bush in the city: hiking up bushy slopes to the Mt Coot-tha Lookout.

6 Chugging up, down or across the Brisbane River on a ferry.

7 Meandering between cellar doors in the Granite Belt Wine Region.

Brisbane

Pop 2.2 million

Brisbane's charms are evident: the arts, the cafes, the bars, the weather, the old Queenslander houses, the go-get-'em attitude. But perhaps it’s the Brisbane River itself – which broke so many hearts when it flooded in 2011 and 2013 – that gives the city its edge. The river’s organic convolutions carve the city into a patchwork of urban villages, each with a distinct style and topography: bohemian, low-lying West End; hip, hilltop Paddington; exclusive, peninsular New Farm; prim, pointy Kangaroo Point. Move from village to village and experience Queensland's diverse, eccentric, happening capital.

History

The first settlement in the Brisbane area was established at Redcliffe on Moreton Bay in 1824 as a penal colony for Sydney’s more recalcitrant convicts. After struggling with inadequate water supplies and hostility from the displaced local Aboriginal population, the colony was relocated to the banks of the Brisbane River, the site of the city centre today. The new site suffered at the hands of numerous crooked warders and was abandoned in 1839. Subsequently, the Moreton Bay area was thrown open to free settlers in 1842, marking the beginning of Brisbane’s rise to prominence.

By the time of Queensland’s separation from New South Wales in 1859, Brisbane had a population of around 6000. Huge wealth flowed into the city from the new pastoral and gold-mining enterprises in the Darling Downs, and grandiose buildings were erected to reflect this new-found affluence. The frontier-town image was hard to shake off, however, and it wasn’t until the 1982 Commonwealth Games and Expo ’88 that Brisbane’s reputation as a cultural centre came into being.

1Sights

Greater Brisbane

Mt Coot-tha ReserveNATURE RESERVE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.brisbane.qld.gov.au; Mt Coot-tha Rd, Mt Coot-tha; icon-hoursgifh24hr)icon-freeF

A 15-minute drive or bus ride from the city, this huge bush reserve is topped by 287m Mt Coot-tha (more of a hill, really). On the hillsides you’ll find the Brisbane Botanic Gardens, the Sir Thomas Brisbane Planetarium, walking trails and the eye-popping Mt Coot-tha Lookout ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.brisbanelookout.com; 1012 Sir Samuel Griffith Dr; icon-hoursgifh24hr). On a clear day you can see the Moreton Bay islands.

To get here via public transport, take bus 471 from Adelaide St in the city, opposite King George Sq ($6.10, 25 minutes). The bus drops you off at the lookout and stops outside the botanic gardens and planetarium en route.

Just north of the road to the lookout, on Samuel Griffith Dr, is the turn-off to JC Slaughter Falls, 700m along a walking track; plus a 1.5km Aboriginal Art Trail, which takes you past eight art sites with works by local Aboriginal artists. You can also hike to the lookout from JC Slaughter Falls (about 4km return – steep!). There’s a cafe and flashy restaurant at the top.

Brisbane Botanic GardensGARDENS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3403 8888; www.brisbane.qld.gov.au/botanicgardens; Mt Coot-tha Rd, Mt Coot-tha; icon-hoursgifh8am-5.30pm)icon-freeF

At the base of Mt Coot-tha, these 52-hectare gardens have a plethora of mini ecologies on display: cactus, bonsai and herb gardens, rainforests, arid zones… You’ll feel like you’re traversing the globe in all its vegetated splendour! Free guided walks are at 11am and 1pm Monday and Saturday; free minibus tours at 10.30am Monday to Friday.

To get here via public transport, take bus 471 from Adelaide St in the city, opposite King George Sq ($6.10, 25 minutes).

Sir Thomas Brisbane PlanetariumOBSERVATORY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3403 2578; www.brisbane.qld.gov.au/planetarium; Mt Coot-tha Rd, Mt Coot-tha; admission free, shows adult/child/family $15/9/41; icon-hoursgifh10am-4pm Tue-Fri & Sun, 11am-7.30pm Sat)

At the entrance to the Brisbane Botanic Gardens at Mt Coot-tha is the newly renovated Sir Thomas Brisbane Planetarium, the biggest planetarium in Australia. The observatory has a variety of telescopes, and there are 10 regular outer-space shows inside the Cosmic Skydome, narrated by the likes of Harrison Ford and Ewan McGregor (bookings advised).

Bus 471 from Adelaide St in the city, opposite King George Sq ($6.10, 25 minutes).

Lone Pine Koala SanctuaryWILDLIFE RESERVE

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3378 1366; www.koala.net; 708 Jesmond Rd, Fig Tree Pocket; adult/child/family $30/20/72; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm)

About 12km south of the city centre, Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary occupies a patch of parkland beside the river. It’s home to 130 or so koalas, plus kangaroos, possums, wombats, birds and other Aussie critters. The koalas are undeniably cute – most visitors readily cough up the $16 to have their picture snapped hugging one. There are animal presentations scheduled throughout the day.

To get here catch bus 430 ($7.20, 45 minutes) from the Queen St bus station. Alternatively, Mirimar (icon-phonegif%1300 729 742; www.miramar.com; incl park entry per adult/child/family $55/33/160) cruises along the Brisbane River to the sanctuary, departing from the Cultural Centre Pontoon on South Bank next to Victoria Bridge. Boats depart daily at 10am, returning from Lone Pine at 1.45pm.

Newstead HouseHISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.newsteadhouse.com.au; cnr Breakfast Creek Rd & Newstead Ave, Newstead; adult/child/family $9/6/20; icon-hoursgifh10am-4pm Mon-Thu, 2-5pm Sun)

On a breezy hill overlooking the river, Brisbane’s oldest house dates from 1846 and is beautifully fitted out with Victorian furnishings, antiques, clothing and period displays. It’s a modest, peach-coloured L-shaped affair, surrounded by manicured lawns with lovely river views. Wedding photographers do their best to avoid the big brick electrical substation in the gardens. Free Sunday afternoon concerts.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

D'AGUILAR NATIONAL PARK

Suburban malaise? Slake your wilderness cravings at this 500-sq-km national park ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.nprsr.qld.gov.au/parks/daguilar; 60 Mount Nebo Rd, The Gap), just 10km northwest of the city centre but worlds away (it's pronounced 'dee-ag-lar'). At the park's entrance the Walkabout Creek visitor information centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3512 2300; www.walkaboutcreek.com.au; wildlife centre adult/child/family $6.80/3.30/17.10; icon-hoursgifh9am-4.15pm) has maps. Also here is the South East Queensland Wildlife Centre where you can see a resident platypus, plus turtles, lizards, pythons and gliders. There’s also a small walk-through aviary, and a cafe. A new multi-million-dollar redevelopment is slated: come back in 2020 and see if it's finished.

Walking trails in the park range from a few hundred metres to 13km, and include the 6km Morelia Track at Manorina day-use area and the 4.3km Greene’s Falls Track at Mt Glorious. Mountain biking and horse riding are also options. You can camp in the park too, in remote, walk-in bush camp sites (icon-phonegif%13 74 68; http://parks.nprsr.qld.gov.au/permits; per person $5.75). There are a couple of walks (1.5km and 5km) kicking off from the visitor centre, but other walks are a fair distance away (so you’ll need your own wheels).

To get here catch bus 385 ($7.20, 30 minutes) from Roma St Station to the Gap Park 'n' Ride, then walk a few hundred metres up the road.

Central Brisbane

icon-top-choiceoCity HallLANDMARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3403 8463; www.brisbane.qld.gov.au; King George Sq; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm)icon-freeF

Overlooking King George Sq, this fine 1930s sandstone edifice is fronted by a row of sequoia-sized Corinthian columns. It has an 85m-high clock tower with a fabulous lookout, from which bells peal across the city rooftops. In 2013 the hall opened up again after a three-year renovation. Free guided tours run hourly from 10.15am to 3.30pm; free clock tower tours run every 15 minutes from 10.45am to 4.45pm. Phone for guided-tour bookings; clock tower tours are on a first-come, first-served basis. Also here is the excellent Museum of Brisbane.

icon-top-choiceoMuseum of BrisbaneMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3339 0800; www.museumofbrisbane.com.au; Level 3, Brisbane City Hall, King George Sq; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm)icon-freeF

Inside Brisbane's renovated City Hall, this excellent little museum illuminates the city from a variety of viewpoints, with interactive exhibits exploring both social history and the current cultural landscape. When we visited, the three long-term exhibits were a fabulous display on the islands and history of Moreton Bay, with excellent Aboriginal content; an exhibit on the history of the Brisbane River; and an exhibition on iconic Queensland novelist David Malouf, featuring work from five artists he's inspired.

Commissariat Store MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.queenslandhistory.org; 115 William St; adult/child/family $6/3/12; icon-hoursgifh10am-4pm Tue-Fri)

Built by convicts in 1829, this former government storehouse is the oldest occupied building in Brisbane. Inside is an immaculate little museum devoted to convict and colonial history. Don’t miss the convict ‘fingers’ and the exhibit on Italians in Queensland.

City Botanic GardensPARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.brisbane.qld.gov.au; Alice St; icon-hoursgifh24hr; icon-wifigifW)icon-freeF

Brisbane’s favourite green space descends gently from the Queensland University of Technology campus to the river: a mass of lawns, tangled Moreton Bay figs, bunya pines, macadamia trees and Tai Chi troupes. Free guided tours leave the rotunda at 11am and 1pm daily.

Old Government HouseHISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3138 8005; www.ogh.qut.edu.au; 2 George St; icon-hoursgifh10am-4pm Sun-Fri)icon-freeF

Hailed as Queensland's most important historic building, this 1862 gem was designed by estimable government architect Charles Tiffin as an appropriately plush residence for Sir George Bowen, Queensland’s first governor. The lavish innards were restored in 2009. Free morning guided tours Tuesday to Thursday: phone for bookings.

Treasury BuildingHISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.treasurybrisbane.com.au; cnr Queen & William Sts; icon-hoursgifh24hr)icon-freeF

At the western end of the Queen St Mall is the magnificent Italian Renaissance–style Treasury Building, dating from 1889. No tax collectors inside – just Brisbane’s casino.

Opposite the casino fronting a grassy plaza stands the equally gorgeous former Land Administration Building, which has been converted into a five-star hotel called Treasury.

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Central Brisbane, Kangaroo Point & South Bank

6Drinking & Nightlife

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South Bank

On South Bank, just over Victoria Bridge from the Central Business District (CBD), the Queensland Cultural Centre is the epicentre of Brisbane’s cultural life. It’s a huge compound that includes concert and theatre venues, four museums and the Queensland State Library.

icon-top-choiceoGallery of Modern ArtGALLERY

(GOMA; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.qagoma.qld.gov.au; Stanley Pl; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm; icon-wifigifW)icon-freeF

All angular glass, concrete and black metal, must-see GOMA focuses on Australian art from the 1970s to today. Continually changing and often confronting, exhibits range from painting, sculpture and photography to video, installation and film. There’s also an arty bookshop, kids’ activity rooms, a cafe and free guided tours at 11am, 1pm and 2pm. Brilliant!

South Bank ParklandsPARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.visitsouthbank.com.au; Grey St; icon-hoursgifhdawn-dusk)icon-freeF

This beautiful green strip is home to performance spaces, sculptures, buskers, eateries, bars, pockets of rainforest, barbecue areas, bougainvillea-draped pergolas and hidden lawns. The big-ticket attractions here are Streets Beach, a kitsch artificial swimming beach resembling a tropical lagoon (packed on weekends); and the London Eye–style Wheel of Brisbane ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3844 3464; www.thewheelofbrisbane.com.au; Grey St; adult/child/family $17.50/12/50; icon-hoursgifh11am-9.30pm Mon-Thu, 10am-11pm Fri & Sat, 10am-10pm Sun), which offers 360-degree views from its 60m heights. Rides last around 10 minutes and include audio commentary (and air-con!).

Queensland Art GalleryGALLERY

(QAG; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.qagoma.qld.gov.au; Melbourne St; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm)icon-freeF

Duck into the QAG to see the fine permanent collection. Australian art dates from the 1840s to the 1970s: check out works by celebrated masters including Sir Sydney Nolan, Arthur Boyd, William Dobell and George Lambert. Free guided tours at 11am, 1pm and 2pm.

Queensland Museum & SciencentreMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.southbank.qm.qld.gov.au; cnr Grey & Melbourne Sts; Queensland museum admission free, Sciencentre adult/child/family $14.50/11.50/44.50; icon-hoursgifh9.30am-5pm)icon-freeF

Queensland’s history is given the once-over here, with interesting exhibits including a skeleton of the state’s own dinosaur Muttaburrasaurus (aka ‘Mutt’), and the Avian Cirrus, the tiny plane in which Queenslander Bert Hinkler made the first England-to-Australia solo flight in 1928. Have a snack to a whale soundtrack in the outdoor ‘Whale Mall’.

Also here is the Sciencentre, an educational fun house with over 100 hands-on, interactive exhibits that delve into life science and technology. Expect long queues during school holidays.

BRISBANE IN…

TWO DAYS

Start with breakfast in Brisbane’s boho West End - we like Gunshop Café and the Burrow - then saunter across to the South Bank Parklands. Spend a few hours swanning around at the Gallery of Modern Art, then grab some lunch at a riverside eatery and cool off with a swim at Streets Beach. As the evening rolls in, jump on a ferry to the Brisbane Powerhouse in New Farm for a bite, a drink or perhaps a show.

On day two head downtown for a gander at the mix of old and new architecture, visiting the newly renovated City Hall - don't miss the Museum of Brisbane on the 3rd floor - and the Treasury Building, before ambling through the lush City Botanic Gardens. Finish the day in Fortitude Valley: a brew at Alfred & Constance, a noodle soup in Chinatown, and a night of indulgences in the bars and clubs.

FOUR DAYS

On day three check out the rather French cafes in New Farm (Chouquette is hard to beat) then scoot over to Paddington to check out the retro shops. Take a drive up to the lookout on top of Mt Coot-tha Reserve then meander away an hour or two in the Brisbane Botanic Gardens. Dress up for dinner and drinks in the city: slake your thirst at Super Whatnot then eat in style at E'cco.

On day four take a river cruise to Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary. Recount the day’s wildlife encounters over a beer and a steak at the Breakfast Creek Hotel then head back to the West End for beers at the Archive Beer Boutique and a live band at Lock ‘n’ Load.

Fortitude Valley

ChinatownNEIGHBOURHOOD

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Duncan St, Fortitude Valley; icon-hoursgifh24hr)icon-freeF

Brisbane’s Chinatown occupies just one street (check out the replica Tang dynasty archway and the lions at the Ann St end), but it's just as flamboyant and flavour-filled as its Sydney and Melbourne counterparts. Glazed flat ducks hang behind steamy windows; aromas of Thai, Chinese, Vietnamese, Laotian and Japanese cooking fill the air. There are free outdoor movies during summer, and the whole place goes nuts during Chinese New Year festivities.

Institute of Modern ArtGALLERY

(IMA; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.ima.org.au; 420 Brunswick St, Fortitude Valley; icon-hoursgifhTue-Sat 12am-6pm, to 8pm Thu)icon-freeF

The Institute of Modern Art in the Judith Wright Centre of Contemporary Arts is an excellent noncommercial gallery with an industrial vibe, and has regular showings by local names. With risqué, emerging and experimental art for grown-ups, it’s GOMA’s naughty little cousin.

New Farm

icon-top-choiceoBrisbane PowerhouseARTS CENTRE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.brisbanepowerhouse.org; 119 Lamington St, New Farm; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun)icon-freeF

On the eastern flank of New Farm Park stands the Powerhouse, a once-derelict power station that’s been superbly transformed into a contemporary arts centre. Inside the brick husk are graffiti remnants, pieces of industrial machinery and lights made from old electrical transformers. The Powerhouse hosts a range of visual arts, food-and-wine events, and comedy and musical performances (many free). There are also two riverside restaurants. Download the free Generator app for an audio tour of the amazing old building.

New Farm ParkPARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.newfarmpark.com.au; Brunswick St, New Farm; icon-hoursgifh24hr; icon-wifigifW)

New Farm Park, on the tail end of Brunswick St by the river, is a large, open parkland with picnic areas and gas barbecues, jacaranda trees, rose gardens and free wif-fi. The amazing playground here – a Crusoe-esque series of platforms among some vast Moreton Bay figs trees – is a real hit with the kids. Jan Powers Farmers Market and Moonlight Cinema happen here too.

2Activities

Walking

Feel like stretching your legs? Check out www.brisbane.qld.gov.au/facilities-recreation/sports-leisure/walking/walking-trails for a series of excellent art and heritage trails around town.

Sadly the city's excellent Riverwalk pathway was destroyed in the 2011 floods, but a stroll along the riverbanks remains rewarding. The new, more flood-resistant Riverwalk – including a section linking New Farm with the CBD – is being built at a cost of $72 million, and at the time of writing was expected to be open in 2015.

2City Walk
CBD & South Bank Circuit

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Start Central Station

End King George Sq

Length 5km; two hours

Cross Ann St south of Central Station to the sobering 1Shrine of Remembrance above the northern edge of 2Anzac Square, with its bulbous boab trees and wandering ibises. At the southern side of the square, scale one of the pedestrian bridges over Adelaide St, which lead to the elevated, manicured 3Post Office Square. The square is fronted at its southern end by Brisbane’s stately stone 4GPO. Take the alley between the wings of the post office through to Elizabeth St. Cross the road and stick your head into beautiful white-stone 5St Stephen’s Cathedral.

Walk through the grassy courtyard behind the cathedral until reaching Charlotte St. Take a left, cross Eagle St and duck through 6Eagle Street Pier on the river. Check the Story Bridge views to your left, then go down the steps to the riverside boardwalk and truck south.

At Edward and Alice Sts, detour through the 7City Botanic Gardens. Cast an eye across the river to the Kangaroo Point cliffs, then skirt around the back of the Brisbane Riverstage to the pedestrian-only 8Goodwill Bridge: check out HMAS Diamantina in the Queensland Maritime Museum to your left. From here, jag north into the 9South Bank Parklands.

If time is your friend, duck into the outstanding aGallery of Modern Art. Otherwise, cross Victoria Bridge back into central Brisbane. Just south of the gorgeous bTreasury Building on William St, an unnamed alley cuts through to George St. Dogleg across George into Charlotte St, continue along Charlotte then turn left into Albert St in Brisbane’s modern CBD.

Continue along Albert St, cross cQueen Street Mall and then Adelaide St into King George Sq, with towering dCity Hall anchoring the southwest side. After taking in the scene, back-track to the mall for a much-deserved pick-me-up.

Cycling

Brisbane is hilly but it's still one of Australia’s most bike-friendly cities, with over 900km of bike paths, including tracks along the Brisbane River. A good starter takes you from the City Botanic Gardens, across the Goodwill Bridge and out to the University of Queensland. It’s about 7km one way, and you can stop for a beer at the Regatta pub in Toowong en route.

Bicycles are allowed on Brisbane's trains, except on weekdays during peak hours. You can also take bikes on CityCats and ferries for free.

CityCycleBICYCLE RENTAL

(icon-phonegif%1300 229 253; www.citycycle.com.au; hire per hour/day $2.20/165, first 30min free; icon-hoursgifhhire 5am-10pm, return 24hr)

Brisbane’s public bike-share is great! Subscribe via the website (per day/week/three months $2/11/27.50), then hire a bike (additional fee) from any of the 150 stations around the city. It's very pricey to hire for more than an hour, so make use of the free first 30 minutes per bike and ride from station to station, swapping bikes as you go. Sometimes a helmet and lock come with the bike, but often not: the website lists bike shops where you can buy them.

Bicycle RevolutionBICYCLE RENTAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.bicyclerevolution.org.au; 294 Montague Rd, West End; per day/week $35/150; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon, to 6pm Tue-Fri, 8am-2pm Sat)

Friendly community shop with a handsome range of recycled bikes assembled by staff with reconditioned parts. Very hipster.

Swimming

Streets BeachSWIMMING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.visitbrisbane.com.au/south-bank; icon-hoursgifhdaylight hours)icon-freeF

A central spot for a quick (and free) dip is the artificial, riverside Streets Beach at South Bank. Lifeguards, hollering kids, beach babes, strutting gym-junkies, ice-cream carts – they're all here.

Centenary Aquatic CentreSWIMMING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1300 332 583; www.cityaquatics.com.au; 400 Gregory Tce, Spring Hill; adult/child/family $5.10/3.70/15.60; icon-hoursgifh5am-8pm Mon-Thu, to 6pm Fri, 7am-6pm Sat & Sun)

This is the best pool in town and has been recently refurbished, with an Olympic-sized lap pool, a kids' pool and a diving pool with a high tower.

Spring Hill BathsSWIMMING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1300 733 053; www.cityaquatics.com.au; 14 Torrington St, Spring Hill; adult/child/family $5.10/3.70/15.60; icon-hoursgifh6.30am-7pm Mon-Thu, to 6pm Fri, 8am-5pm Sat & Sun)

Opened in 1886, this quaint heated 25m pool is encircled by cute timber change rooms. It's one of the oldest public baths in the southern hemisphere.

Climbing & Abseiling

Story Bridge Adventure ClimbADVENTURE TOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1300 254 627; www.sbac.net.au; 170 Main St, Kangaroo Point; adult/child from $99/85)

A Brisbane must-do, the bridge climb offers unbeatable views of the city – at dawn, day, twilight or night. The 2½-hour climb scales the southern half of the bridge, taking you 80m above the twisting, muddy Brisbane River below. Minimum age 10. Abseiling expeditions also available.

Riverlife Adventure CentreROCK CLIMBING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3891 5766; www.riverlife.com.au; Naval Stores, Kangaroo Point Bikeway, Kangaroo Point; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm)

Near the 20m Kangaroo Point Cliffs, Riverlife runs rock-climbing sessions (from $55) and abseiling exploits ($45). It also offers kayaking river trips (from $45) and hires out bikes (per four hours $35), kayaks (per two hours $35) and in-line skates (per four hours $40).

Urban ClimbROCK CLIMBING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3844 2544; www.urbanclimb.com.au; 2/220 Montague Rd, West End; adult/child $20/18; icon-hoursgifhnoon-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun)

A large indoor climbing wall with 200-plus routes.

In-Line Skating

You can hire skates and equipment from Riverlife Adventure Centre.

Planet InlineSKATING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0413 099 333; www.planetinline.com; Goodwill Bridge; tours $15)

Skaters reclaim the streets on Wednesday night with Planet Inline skate tours starting at 7.15pm from the top of the Goodwill Bridge. It also runs a Saturday-morning breakfast-club tour, and Sunday-afternoon tours that differ each week and last about three hours.

Skydiving & Ballooning

Jump the Beach BrisbaneSKYDIVING

(icon-phonegif%1300 800 840; www.jumpthebeachbrisbane.com.au; skydives from $279)

Picks up from the CBD and offers tandem skydives over Brisbane, landing on the sand in Redcliffe.

Fly Me to the MoonBALLOONING

(icon-phonegif%07-3423 0400; www.brisbanehotairballooning.com.au; adult/child from $299/230)

One-hour hot-air balloon trips over Brisbane. Pick-up and breakfast included.

BRISBANE FOR CHILDREN

From toddlers to teenagers, there’s no shortage of options to keep kids busy (and parents happy) in Brisbane. For info on current happenings pick up the free monthly magazine Brisbane’s Child (www.brisbaneschild.com.au). During school holidays the Brisbane City Council runs the 'Chill Out' activities program for 10- to 17-year-olds: see www.brisbane.qld.gov.au/whats-on/type/recreation-programs/chill-out.

Out and about, swing by the South Bank Parklands, which has lawns, barbecues, playgrounds and the slow-spinning Wheel of Brisbane – a real mind-blower for anyone under 15. The lifeguard-patrolled Streets Beach is here too, with a shallow section for really small swimmers. New Farm Park is another beaut spot by the river, with a series of treehouse-like platforms interlinking huge (and shady) Moreton Bay fig trees.

The Brisbane River is a big plus. Take a ferry ride around the bends of central Brisbane, or chug further afield to the Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary, where the kids can cuddle up to a critter. If you’re heading out Mt Coot-tha way, catch a starry show at the Sir Thomas Brisbane Planetarium.

Too humid to be outside? Head for the air-con at the Queensland Cultural Centre on South Bank. Here the Queensland Museum runs some fab, hands-on programs for little tackers during school holidays. The incorporated Sciencentre has plenty of push-this-button-and-see-what-happens action. The Queensland Art Gallery has a Children’s Art Centre which runs regular programs throughout the year, as does the State Library of Queensland and the Gallery of Modern Art. Over in Fortitude Valley at the Judith Wright Centre of Contemporary Arts, C!RCA ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3852 3110; www.circa.org.au; Level 3, 420 Brunswick St, Fortitude Valley) offers action-packed ‘circus classes’ (tumbling, balancing, jumping, trapeze work) for budding young carnies.

Day-care or babysitting options include Dial an Angel (icon-phonegif%07-3878 1077, 1300 721 111; www.dialanangel.com) and Care4Kidz (www.careforkidz.com.au).

TTours

CityCatBOAT TOUR

(icon-phonegif%13 12 30; www.translink.com.au; one-way $6.10; icon-hoursgifh5.25am-11.50pm)

Ditching the car or bus and catching a sleek CityCat ferry along the Brisbane river is sightseeing with style. Stand on an open-air deck and glide under the Story Bridge to South Bank and the city centre. Ferries run every 15 to 30 minutes between the University of Queensland in the southwest to the Apollo Road terminal north of the city, stopping at 14 terminals in between, including New Farm Park, North Quay (for the CBD), South Bank and West End.

Brisbane Bicycle ToursBICYCLE TOUR

(icon-phonegif%0417 462 875; www.brisbanebicycletours.com.au; 2/4hr tours from $50/75)

Check out the River City on two wheels, exploring the city centre or along riverside pathways. Easy-going pace (if you haven't been on a bike for a while), with lots of rest stops.

CitySightsGUIDED TOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.citysights.com.au; day tickets per adult/child/family $35/20/80; icon-hoursgifh9am-3.45pm)

This hop-on-hop-off shuttle bus wheels past 19 Brisbane landmarks (in two hours if you don't jump off), including the CBD, Mt Coot-tha, Chinatown, South Bank and Story Bridge. Tours depart every 45 minutes from Post Office Sq on Queen St. Buy tickets from the driver.

XXXX Brewery TourTOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3361 7597; www.xxxx.com.au; cnr Black & Paten Sts, Milton; adult/child $32/18; icon-hoursgifhtours 11am, 12.30pm, 2pm & 3.30pm Mon-Fri, 11am, 11.30am, 12pm, 12.30pm, 1pm, 1.30pm & 2pm Sat)

Feel a XXXX coming on? This brewery tour include a few humidity-beating ales (leave the car at home). Also on offer are combined brewery and Suncorp Stadium tours (adult/child $48/28) at 10.30am Monday to Thursday. Book all tours in advance, and wear enclosed shoes. There’s also an alehouse here if you feel like kicking on.

Brisbane GreetersGUIDED TOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3156 6364; www.brisbanegreeters.com.au; Brisbane City Hall, King George Sq; icon-hoursgifh10am)icon-freeF

Free, small-group, hand-held introductory tours of Brizzy with affable volunteers. Call to see what's running, or to organise a customised tour. Bookings essential.

Brisbane Lights ToursGUIDED TOUR

(icon-phonegif%07-3822 6028; www.brisbanelightstours.com; adult/child/family from $69/30/160)

Three-hour nocturnal tours departing at 6.30pm nightly (hotel pick-ups included), covering a dozen city landmarks, with dinner (or a snack) at Mt Coot-tha Lookout and a 20-minute CityCat cruise.

Lucy Boots Bushwalking ToursBUSHWALKING

(icon-phonegif%0499 117 199; www.lucybootsbushtours.com.au; tours from $99)

Take a guided hike through some easily accessible wilderness on a day trip from Brisbane: Lamington National Park, Tamborine Mountain, the Glasshouse Mountains, Bribie Island or Springbrook National Park. Prices include lunch and Brisbane pick-up and drop-off.

River City CruisesCRUISE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0428 278 473; www.rivercitycruises.com.au; South Bank Parklands Jetty A; adult/child/family $29/15/65)

River City runs 1½-hour cruises with commentary from South Bank to New Farm and back. They depart from South Bank at 10.30am and 12.30pm (plus 2.30pm during summer).

Ghost ToursTOUR

(icon-phonegif%07-3344 7265; www.ghost-tours.com.au; walking/coach tours from $20/50)

'Get creeped' on these 90-minute guided walking tours or 2½-hour bus tours of Brisbane’s haunted heritage: murder scenes, cemeteries, eerie arcades and the infamous Boggo Road Gaol ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0411 111 903, (07) 3844 0059; www.boggoroadgaol.com; Annerley Rd, Dutton Park; historical tours adult/child/family $25/12.50/50, ghost tours adult/child over 12 $40/25; icon-hoursgifhhistorical tours 11am & 1pm Tue-Sat, 9am, 10am, 11am, noon & 1pm Sun, ghost tours 7.30pm Wed & Sun, 7pm & 8pm Fri). Offers several tours a week; bookings essential.

zFestivals & Events

Check out www.visitbrisbane.com.au for full listings of what's happening around town.

Brisbane InternationalTENNIS

(www.brisbaneinternational.com.au)

Pro tennis tournament attracting the world’s best. Held at the Queensland Tennis Centre in January, just prior to the Australian Open (in Melbourne).

Chinese New YearCULTURAL

(www.chinesenewyear.com.au)

Held in Fortitude Valley’s Chinatown Mall (Duncan St) in January/February. Firecrackers, whirling dragons and fantastic food.

Brisbane Comedy FestivalCOMEDY

(www.briscomfest.com)

Four-week festival in March featuring local and international laugh-mongers; at the Brisbane Powerhouse.

Brisbane Winter CarnivalSPORTS

(www.racingqueensland.com.au)

The state’s major horse-racing carnival, held in May and June. The biggest day is the Stradbroke Handicap (www.stradbrokehandicap.com.au; early June).

Brisbane Pride FestivalGAY & LESBIAN

(www.brisbanepridefestival.com.au)

Brisbane’s annual gay and lesbian celebration is held over four weeks in September (some events in June, including the fab Queen’s Ball).

'Ekka' Royal Queensland ShowCULTURAL

(www.ekka.com.au)

Country and city collide in August for Queensland’s largest annual event, the Ekka (formerly the Brisbane Exhibition, which was shortened to ‘Ekka’). Baby animals, showbags, spooky carnies, shearing demonstrations, rides and over-sugared kids ahoy!

Brisbane Writers FestivalLITERATURE

(BWF; www.brisbanewritersfestival.com.au)

Queensland’s premier literary event has been running for 50 years: words, books, and people who put words in books. Held in September.

Brisbane FestivalPERFORMING ARTS

(www.brisbanefestival.com.au)

Brisbane’s major festival of the arts, held over three weeks in September.

Valley FiestaMUSIC

(www.valleyfiesta.com.au)

Rock bands and DJs take over Fortitude Valley’s Brunswick St and Chinatown malls for three days in October: Brisbane’s biggest free music fest.

Brisbane International Film FestivalFILM

(BIFF; www.biff.com.au)

Twelve days of quality films flicker across Brisbane screens in November.

BRISBANE FESTIVAL

In September, Brisbane’s streets become a hurly-burly of colour, flair, flavour and fireworks during the city’s biggest annual arts event – the Brisbane Festival (www.brisbanefestival.com.au). Running over three weeks, the festival involves more than 300 performances and 60-odd events, enticing 2000-plus artists from across the planet. Art exhibitions, dance, theatre, opera, symphonies, circus performers, buskers and vaudeville acts generate an eclectic scene, with many free street events and concerts around town.

Each year the festival opens with a bang – literally. Staged over the Brisbane River, with vantage points at South Bank, the city and West End, Riverfire is a massive fireworks show with dazzling visual choreography and a synchronised soundtrack.

4Sleeping

Brisbane has an excellent selection of accommodation options that will suit any budget. Many are beyond the business beds of the city centre, but they’re usually within walking distance or have good public-transport connections.

Head for Spring Hill for peace and quiet; Fortitude Valley for party nights; Paddington for cafes and boutiques; Petrie Terrace for hostels; gay-friendly New Farm for restaurants; and West End for bars and bookshops.

Greater Brisbane

Newmarket Gardens Caravan ParkCAMPGROUND

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3356 1458; www.newmarketgardens.com.au; 199 Ashgrove Ave, Newmarket; unpowered/powered sites $40/42, on-site vans $56, budget r $66, cabins $130-155; icon-parkgifpicon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

Some of the trees at this suburban caravan park are mangoes – beware falling fruit! It’s just 4km north of the city, accessible by bus and train. There’s a row of six simple budget rooms (no air-con), five tidy cabins (with air-con) and a sea of van and tent sites. Not much in the way of distractions for kids.

Central Brisbane

X-Base Brisbane UptownHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3238 5888; www.stayatbase.com; 466 George St; dm/d from $21/85; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

This purpose-built hostel near Roma St Station flaunts its youth with mod interiors, decent facilities and overall cleanliness. Each room has air-con, a bathroom and individual lockers, and it’s wheelchair-accessible. The bar downstairs is a party palace, with big-screen sports, DJs and open-mic nights.

Kookaburra InnGUESTHOUSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3832 1303, 1800 733 533; www.kookaburra-inn.com.au; 41 Phillips St, Spring Hill; s/tw & d without bathroom from $67/84; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

This small, simple two-level guesthouse has basic rooms with washbasin and fridge, and clean shared bathrooms. The building itself is unremarkable, but there’s a lounge, kitchen and outdoor patio. A decent budget option if you’ve done dorms to death. Air-con in some doubles only. Free wi-fi.

Spring Hill TerracesMOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3854 1048; www.springhillterraces.com; 260 Water St, Spring Hill; d $95-145, unit $175; icon-parkgifpicon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

Offering good old-fashioned service, security and a tiny pool (a pond?), Spring Hill Terraces has inoffensive motel-style rooms and roomier terrace units with balconies and leafy courtyards. A 10-minute walk from Fortitude Valley.

Punthill BrisbaneHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3055 5777, 1300 731 299; www.punthill.com.au; 40 Astor Tce; 1-/3-bed apt from $150/180; icon-parkgifpicon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

The lobby here is full of retro bicycles (for hire) and every balcony has a bird cage with a faux-feathered friend in it…but aside from these quirks, what you can expect is stylish suites (all taupe, charcoal, ivory and nice art) in a central location for competitive prices. A good option all-round. Parking $25.

Meriton Serviced ApartmentsAPARTMENTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%131 672, 07-3999 8000; www.staymsa.com; 43 Herschel St; d from $120, 1-/2-/3-bedroom apt from $150/315/365; icon-parkgifpicon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

Want a room with a view? Shiny and black, the 249m Infinity Tower is Brisbane's tallest building. It houses some 80 levels of stylish Meriton apartments of various sizes and configurations, all with views. The studio and one-bedroom options are great bang for your buck. Parking $35.

Urban BrisbaneHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3831 6177; www.hotelurban.com.au; 345 Wickham Tce; d/1-/2-bedroom from $180/225/270; icon-parkgifpicon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

Still looking sexy after a recent $10-million makeover, the Urban has stylish rooms with masculine hues, balconies and high-end fittings (supercomfy beds, big TVs, fuzzy bathrobes). There’s also a heated outdoor pool, a bar, and lots of uniformed flight attendants checking in and out. Good value for money. Parking $15.

Mantra TerraceBOUTIQUE HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3009 3400, 1300 737 111; www.8hotels.com; 52 Astor Tce; d from $179; icon-parkgifpicon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

Behind an ultramod black-and-white facade, the seven-storey Mantra Terrace has compact, contemporary rooms with natty wallpaper and thoughtful touches (original artwork, free wi-fi). The bigger suites have kitchenettes and lounge areas, and there’s a bar-restaurant on the ground floor. Parking $28.

Soho MotelMOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3831 7722; www.sohobrisbane.com.au; 333 Wickham Tce; r $100-160; icon-parkgifpicon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

This bricky 50-room joint a short hop from Roma St Station is better inside than it looks from the street, with smart, compact rooms with little balconies. The owners are friendly and savvy, and pay attention to the little things: free wi-fi, 11am check-out, free parking, custom-made furniture and plush linen. Good value for money.

City Park ApartmentsAPARTMENTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3839 8683; www.cityparkapts.com.au; 251 Gregory Tce, Spring Hill; d from $140, 1-/2-bedroom apt from $180/230; icon-parkgifpicon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

Despite tropical palms and postmodern trimmings, this neatly maintained, three-tier complex of units manages to look a tad Tuscan. Reasonable prices, a shady kidney-shaped pool and easy CBD access. Cheaper for longer stays.

TreasuryLUXURY HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3306 8888; www.treasurybrisbane.com.au; 130 William St; r from $260; icon-parkgifpicon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

Brisbane’s most lavish hotel is behind the equally lavish exterior of the former Land Administration Building. Each room is unique and awash with heritage features; high ceilings, framed artwork, polished wood furniture and elegant furnishings. Perfect if plush and a little bit showy floats your boat. The best rooms have river views. Superefficient staff; parking $30.

Kangaroo Point

Bridgewater ApartmentsAPARTMENTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3391 5300; www.bridgewaterapartments.com.au; 55 Baildon St, Kangaroo Point; studio apts from $160, 1-/2-/3-bedroom apt from $180/230/320; icon-parkgifpicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

Wobbling distance from the Story Bridge Hotel (and Story Bridge itself), this slick, secure apartment complex comprises a three-storey maze of units and a 13-storey tower with beaut views. A charcoal-and-cream colour scheme prevails. Nightly, weekly and monthly rates available.

EconoLodge City Star BrisbaneMOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3391 6222; www.citystar.com.au; 650 Main St, Kangaroo Point; d/tw/f from $119/134/154; icon-parkgifpicon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

Visiting Brisbane for business or pleasure? There's an even split in guest motives here, but either way, they're comfortably accommodated in this superclean, superefficient motel (new beds!) on the main road through Kangaroo Point. The free ferry to Eagle St Pier in the CBD is a short walk away.

Queensland MotelMOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3391 1061; www.queenslandmotel.id.au; 777 Main St, Kangaroo Point; d/tr/f $120/155/270; icon-parkgifpicon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

A no-frills, affable, old-school motel near ‘the Gabba’ cricket ground; 20 minutes’ walk to the city. Shoot for a room on the top floor, with palm trees rustling outside your window.

Fortitude Valley

Bunk BackpackersHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3257 3644, 1800 682 865; www.bunkbrisbane.com.au; 21 Gipps St, Fortitude Valley; dm $23-33, s $60, d/apt from $80/170; icon-parkgifpicon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

This old arts college was reborn as a backpackers 10 years ago – and the party hasn’t stopped! It’s a huge, five-level place with dozens of rooms (mostly eight-bed dorms), just staggering distance from the Valley nightlife. There’s also an in-house bar (Birdees), a Mexican cantina, and a few awesome apartments on the top floor. Not for bed-by-10pm slumberers.

Central Brunswick ApartmentsAPARTMENT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3852 1411; www.centralbrunswickhotel.com.au; 455 Brunswick St; r $130-150; icon-parkgifpicon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

Emerging from the husk of an old brick brewery building, these 60 mod studio apartments are a hit with business bods. All have fully equipped kitchens, and there’s an on-site gym, free wi-fi and rooftop BBQ. Parking $10.

icon-top-choiceoLimesBOUTIQUE HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3852 9000; www.limeshotel.com.au; 142 Constance St, Fortitude Valley; d from $229; icon-parkgifpicon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

A slick slice of style in the Valley, Limes has 21 handsome rooms that make good use of tight space – each has plush furniture, a kitchenette and thoughtful extras (iPod docks, free wi-fi, free gym pass). The rooftop bar, hot tub and cinema (!) are magic. Parking nearby for $18.

Alpha Mosaic BrisbaneHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3332 8888; www.alphamosaichotelbrisbane.com.au; 12 Church St, Fortitude Valley; 1-/2-bedrom apt from $229/459; icon-parkgifpicon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

Brand-spankin' new in 2014, the Alpha Mosaic is a ritzy 18-level number, continuing the evolution of Fortitude Valley from brassy to classy. Nice art, nice views, nice staff... Damn, this place is nice! The bar and restaurant set-ups are breezy and easy-going. Close to James St, too. Parking $25.

New Farm

icon-top-choiceoBowen TerraceGUESTHOUSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3254 0458; www.bowenterrace.com.au; 365 Bowen Tce, New Farm; dm/s/d without bathroom $35/42/72, d/f with bathroom $119/145; icon-parkgifpicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

A beautifully restored, 100-year-old Queenslander, this quiet guesthouse offers rooms with TVs, bar fridges, quality linen and lofty ceilings with fans. Out the back there’s a deck overlooking the enticing pool. No air-con but real value for money, with far more class than your average hostel. Walls between rooms are a bit thin (built before TV was invented).

Spicers Balfour HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1300 597 540; www.spicersretreats.com/spicers-balfour-hotel; 37 Balfour St, New Farm; r from $329; icon-parkgifpicon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

The nine fancy rooms here score highly in the style and comfort stakes, spread over two levels in a lavishly renovated old Queenslander (not a floral print or a doily in sight). There is a slight snootiness to proceedings ('high tea' is taken in the restaurant): just drop the pretensions and enjoy the rooftop bar and hip neighbourhood.

West End

Gonow Family BackpackerHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3846 3473; www.gonowfamily.com.au; 147 Vulture St; dm $18-30, d $69; icon-parkgifpicon-wifigifW)

These have to be the cheapest beds in Brisbane, and Gonow is doing a decent job of delivering a clean, respectful, secure hostel experience despite the bargain-basement pricing. It's not a party place: you'll be better off elsewhere if you're looking to launch drunken forays into the night. The upstairs rooms have more ceiling height.

Brisbane BackpackersHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3844 9956, 1800 626 452; www.brisbanebackpackers.com.au; 110 Vulture St; dm $21-34, d/tw/tr from $99/110/135; icon-parkgifpicon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

Is there such a thing as ‘backpacker kitsch’? If so, this hulking hostel probably qualifies, with staff in too-tight T-shirts and dubious marketing suggesting that travellers 'only sleep with the best'. But if you’re looking to party, you’re in the right place. There’s a great pool and bar area, and rooms are basic but generally well maintained.

Petrie Terrace

Aussie Way BackpackersHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3369 0711; www.aussiewaybackpackers.com; 34 Cricket St, Petrie Terrace; dm/s/tw/d $26/55/69/69, f $81-135; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

Set in a photogenic, two-storey timber Queenslander on the appealingly named Cricket St, Aussie Way feels more like a cosy guesthouse than a hostel, with spacious, tastefully furnished rooms and a fab pool for sticky Brisbane afternoons. The doubles in the second building out the back are just lovely. All quiet after 10.30pm.

Brisbane City YHAHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3236 1004; www.yha.com.au; 392 Upper Roma St; dm from $33, tw & d with/without bathroom from $113/99, f from $133; icon-parkgifpicon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

This immaculate, well-run hostel has a rooftop pool and a sundeck with eye-popping river views. The maximum dorm size is six beds (not too big); most have bathrooms. Big on security, activities, tours and kitchen space (lots of fridges). The cafe-bar has trivia nights and happy hours, but this is a YHA, not party central. Parking $10.

Banana Benders BackpackersHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1800 241 157, 07-3367 1157; www.bananabenders.com; 118 Petrie Tce, Petrie Terrace; dm $27-30, tr $32, d & tw $70-76; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

This friendly, banana-coloured backpackers has basic rooms and a great little deck out the back. It's a bit out of the way (a good thing), a 10-minute walk uphill from Roma St Station. The crowd here could be classed as 'mature': it's not really a party pad.

Chill BackpackersHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3236 0088, 1800 851 875; www.chillbackpackers.com; 328 Upper Roma St; dm/d/tr from $30/89/105; icon-parkgifpicon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

This bright aqua building on the CBD fringe has small, clean, modern rooms, and there’s a roof deck with fab river views (just like the YHA up the road, but from a slightly reduced altitude). In terms of vibe, it's in the middle between party and puritan. Has 24-hour check-in.

Paddington

icon-top-choiceoCasabella ApartmentAPARTMENT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3217 6507; www.casabella-apartment.com; 211 Latrobe Tce, Paddington; apt $175; icon-parkgifpicon-wifigifW)

The understorey of this fuchsia-coloured house at the quiet end of Paddo’s main drag has been converted into a very comfortable self-contained unit. There are two bedrooms (sleeping three), warm Mediterranean colour schemes, recycled timber floors and lots of louvres to let the cross-breeze through (no air-con). Lovely! Free street parking; two-night minimum stay.

icon-top-choiceoLatrobe ApartmentAPARTMENT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0448 944 026; www.stayz.com.au/77109; 183a Latrobe Tce, Paddington; apt from $200; icon-parkgifpicon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

Underneath a chiropractor in affluent Paddington is this excellent two-bedroom apartment, sleeping four, with two bathrooms, polished floorboards, sexy lighting and a fabulous barbecue deck. It’s a sleek, contemporary design, with quality everything: linen, toiletries, kitchenware, TV, iPod dock, leather lounge… Cafes and free parking up at street level.

19-paddington-bris-aus18

Paddington

6Drinking & Nightlife

3Entertainment

5Eating

Like most things in Brisbane, dining experiences can be broadly defined by which neighbourhood you’re in. The city centre is the place for fine dining and coffee nooks. In Fortitude Valley you’ll find cheap cafes and Chinatown. Nearby, New Farm has plenty of multicultural eateries, French-styled cafes and award winners. Eclectic West End is littered with bohemian cafes and cheap multicultural diners. South Bank swings between mainstream and pricey eats. But no matter where you are, you’ll always be able to eat outside! (Is ‘Brisbane’ actually Latin for ‘al fresco’?)

Greater Brisbane

icon-top-choiceoBaker's ArmsBAKERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3391 6599; www.thebakersarms.com.au; 29 Logan Rd, Woolloongabba; mains $8-10; icon-hoursgifh7am-3pm)

There's no fixed menu at this busy Logan Rd bakehouse: instead, a deliciously varied selection of cakes, tarts, frittatas, salads, pies, soups and saucer-sized biscuits is prepared daily, subject to ingredients and bakerly whim. Check what's on offer in the cabinet, then place your order to the clatter-and-bash coffee machine soundtrack. Sunny footpath tables to boot.

EnotecaITALIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3392 4315; www.1889enoteca.com.au; 10-12 Logan Rd, Woolloongabba; mains lunch $21-38, dinner $35-42; icon-hoursgifhnoon-2.30pm Tue-Fri & Sun, 6pm-late Tue-Sat)

Simple and simply wonderful traditional Roman pasta, fish and meat dishes served in a gorgeous 1889 shopfront south of the city centre in Woolloongabba. Even if you're not here for a meal (there's a little wine store here too) check out the lavish lead-lighting, marvellous marble bar, and walk-around glass display cabinet filled with Italian vino vessels.

Central Brisbane

icon-top-choiceoBrewCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3211 4242; www.brewgroup.com.au; Lower Burnett La; mains $9-30; icon-hoursgifh7am-4pm Mon, to 10pm Tue & Wed, to 11.30pm Thu & Fri, 9am-11.30pm Sat, 9am-3pm Sun)

You’d expect to find this kind of subcultural underground cafe in Seattle or Berlin…but Brisbane? Breaking new coffee-cultural ground in Queensland, Brew takes the caffeine into the alleyways, serving simple food (tapas, pastas, sliders) to go with the black stuff. Wines, cocktails and bottled beers also available, for when you feel like a different kind of brew.

Felix for GoodnessCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.felixforgoodness.com; 50 Burnett La; mains $6-17; icon-hoursgifh7am-3pm Mon-Fri; icon-veggifv)icon-sustainableS

Yet another winning destination in Burnett Lane, hard-working Felix does things properly: proper homemade salads, tarts, baguettes, pies and cakes, proper coffee and proper fresh-fruit smoothies. Local and organic wholefoods all the way, made fresh every day. Night-time savoury platters and all-Australian beers and wines were about to commence when we visited.

Miel ContainerBURGERS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0423 466 503; www.facebook.com/mielcontainer; cnr Mary & Albert Sts; mains $12-24; icon-hoursgifh11am-10pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat)

This rude-red shipping container has planted itself in a nook below the downtown Brisbane skyscrapers. Beaut homemade burgers are the mainstay: choose your bun, your burger, your vegies, cheese and sauces, then search for a spare seat by the footpath. A real hit with the lunchtime city suits.

BeanCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/beanbrisbane; rear 181 George St; mains $9-15; icon-hoursgifh7am-6pm Mon & Tue, to 10pm Wed-Sat)

Another of Brisbane's new breed of hip laneway coffee shops, Bean is down a grungy, graffiti-spangled driveway off George St, surrounded by fire escapes, air-con units and cigarette-smoking office workers. You can grab a biscuit, a beer or an eggy breakfast here, but coffee is the main game. Live acoustic tunes Thursday evenings.

Groove TrainCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.groovetrain.com.au; Riverside Centre, 123 Eagle St; mains $19-34; icon-hoursgifh7am-late)

An orange and dark-wood bunker hunkered down by the Riverside ferry terminal, Groove Train is long, low, lean and groovy. Watch the boats chug to-and-fro as you tuck into wood-fired pizzas, wok fry-ups, burgers, calzoni, risottos and big salads. Gets moody and barlike at night.

icon-top-choiceoE'ccoMODERN AUSTRALIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3831 8344; www.eccobistro.com; 100 Boundary St; mains $40-43; icon-hoursgifhnoon-2.30pm Tue-Fri, 6-10pm Tue-Sat; icon-veggifv)

One of the finest restaurants in the state, award-winning E’cco is a culinary must! Menu masterpieces from chef Philip Johnson include liquorice-spiced pork belly with caramelised peach, onion jam and kipfler potatoes. The interior is suitably swish: all black, white and stainless steel.

Cha Cha CharSTEAK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3211 9944; www.chachachar.com.au; Shop 5, 1 Eagle St Pier; mains $36-56; icon-hoursgifhnoon-11pm Mon-Fri, 6-11pm Sat & Sun)

Wallowing in awards, this long-running favourite serves Brisbane’s best steaks, along with first-rate seafood and roast game meats. The classy semicircular dining room in the Eagle St Pier complex has floor-to-ceiling windows and river views.

Kangaroo Point

Cliffs CafeCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cliffscafe.com.au; 29 River Tce, Kangaroo Point; mains $7-22; icon-hoursgifh7am-5pm Mon-Sat)

A steep climb up from the riverside (or an easy drive to the door), this clifftop cafe has superb river and city-skyline views. It’s a casual, open-air pavilion: big breakfasts, burgers, battered barramundi and chips, salads, desserts and good coffee are the standouts.

South Bank

Ahmet'sTURKISH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3846 6699; www.ahmets.com; Shop 10, 168 Grey St; mains $21-34, banquets per person $38-46; icon-hoursgifh11.30am-3pm & 6pm-late; icon-veggifv)

On restaurant-lined Grey St, Ahmet’s serves delectable Turkish fare amid a riot of colours and Grand Bazaar and Bosphorus murals. Try a Sucuk pide (oven-baked Turkish bread with Turkish salami, egg, tomato and mozzarella). Deep street-side terrace and regular live music.

StokehouseMODERN AUSTRALIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3020 0600; www.stokehouse.com.au; River Quay, Sidon St; mains $34-40; icon-hoursgifhnoon-late)

Looking for a classy restaurant in which to pop the question? This angular, concrete-and-dark-timber bunker by the river is for you! Start with the Moreton Bay bugs with braised leeks, then move on to the salt-crusted Yorkshire pork with sherry-glazed prunes and cauliflower. Flashy Stoke Bar is next door (for champagne after she/he says ‘Yes!’).

Fortitude Valley

James Street MarketMARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.jamesstmarket.com.au; 22 James St, Fortitude Valley; icon-hoursgifh8.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8am-6pm Sat & Sun)

Paradise for gourmands, this small but lavishly stocked market has gourmet cheeses, a bakery-patisserie, fruit and veg, flowers, and lots of quality goodies. The fresh seafood counter serves excellent sushi and sashimi. The James Street Cooking School ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3252 8850; www.jamesstcookingschool.com.au; 22 James St, Fortitude Valley; 3hr class $135-155) is upstairs.

Harajuku GyozaJAPANESE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3852 4624; www.harajukugyoza.com; 394 Brunswick St, Fortitude Valley; mains $8-12; icon-hoursgifhmidday-late)

Swing into this darkened, main-street Japanese joint for a quick-fire feed of gyoza (dumplings) or a ramen soup, best shared with a boozy bunch of buddies. Good fun, good prices, cold Kirin on tap and Koshihikari rice beer in the fridge. No bookings.

VietnameseVIETNAMESE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3252 4112; www.thevietnameserestaurant.com.au; 194 Wickham St, Fortitude Valley; mains $10-20; icon-hoursgifh11am-3pm & 5-10pm)

Aptly if unimaginatively named, this is indeed the place in town to eat Vietnamese, with exquisitely prepared dishes served to an always crowded house. Go for something from the ‘Chef’s Recommendation’ list: crispy beef strips with honey and chilli, or clay-pot prawns with oyster sauce. Great value for money.

CamposCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.camposcoffee.com; 11 Wandoo St, Fortitude Valley; mains $9-17; icon-hoursgifh6.30am-4pm)

Caffeine fiends sidestep milk crates and stacks of cardboard boxes down a little black-walled alley behind the James St Market for some of the best coffee in town. Food-wise it's substantial cafe fare (baked eggs, bagels, buttermilk pancakes). Takeaway bags of beans, too.

Thai Wi-RatTHAI, LAOTIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3257 0884; 20 Duncan St, Fortitude Valley; mains $10-18; icon-hoursgifh10am-4pm & 5-9.30pm)

This modest, brightly illuminated hole-in-the-wall on the Chinatown mall cooks up solid, chilli-heavy Thai and Laotian, including pla dook yang (grilled whole catfish). It also does a mean curry laksa (nectar of the gods). Takeaway available.

icon-top-choiceoKwan BrothersASIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3251 6588; www.kwanbros.com.au; 43 Alfred St, Fortitude Valley; small plates $10-15, mains $15-27; icon-hoursgifhnoon-3pm & 5-11pm Mon-Thu, noon-late Fri-Sun; icon-veggifv)

The Brothers Kwan like to stay up late, sitting around their moody, renovated warehouse beneath disco balls and Chinese umbrellas, sharing plates of crispy tofu with lemongrass and chilli, Korean fried cauliflower and BBQ pork-belly sliders. Wash it down with a draught Kirin beer then head for bed before the sun comes up.

Spoon Deli CafeCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3257 1750; www.spoondeli.com.au; Shop B3, 22 James St, Fortitude Valley; breakfast $7-21, mains $10-29; icon-hoursgifh6.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 7am-5pm Sat & Sun; icon-wifigifW)

Inside James St Market, this upscale deli serves gloriously rich pastas, burgers, salads and soups, plus colossal panini and lasagne slabs. The fresh juices are a liquid meal unto themselves. Walls are lined with deli produce: vinegars, oils, herbs and hampers. You’ll feel hungry as soon as you walk in!

New Farm

ChouquetteCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3358 6336; www.chouquette.com.au; 19 Barker St, New Farm; items $3-11, 10 chouquettes $3.50; icon-hoursgifh6.30am-5pm Wed-Sat, to 12.30pm Sun; icon-veggifv)

The best patisserie this side of Toulouse? Something to think about as you grab a nutty coffee and a bag of the namesake chouquettes (small choux pastries topped with granulated sugar), a shiny slice of tarte au citron, or a filled baguette. French-speaking staff.

Double ShotCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3358 6556; 125 Oxlade Dr, New Farm; mains $11-19; icon-hoursgifh6am-3pm Tue-Sun)

This hyperactive little neighbourhood cafe has woken up the slumbering lowlanders of New Farm. Brunching mums and dog-walkers cram into the tight shopfront for Spanish sardines on toast, breakfast burritos and terrific pastries, cakes and tarts. Staff are on the ball, and will do their best to squeeze you in.

AniseFRENCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3358 1558; www.anise.com.au; 697 Brunswick St, New Farm; mains $24-34, 7-course degustation with/without wine $155/100; icon-hoursgifhnoon-2.30pm Thu-Sat, 6-9.30pm Mon-Sat)

This uber-stylish 22-seat restaurant-wine bar features seasonally inspired Gallic fare. Patrons sit at the narrow bar and enjoy amuse-bouches (hors d’oeuvres) such as oysters and Alsace foie gras, followed by the likes of pork cutlets with mustard mash or duck breast with pumpkin, gingerbread and licorice jus. Great for a special occasion.

WattMODERN AUSTRALIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3358 5464; www.wattrestaurant.com.au; Brisbane Powerhouse, 119 Lamington St, New Farm; mains bar $9-22, restaurant $27-39; icon-hoursgifh9am-late Mon-Fri, 8am-late Sat & Sun)

On the riverbank level of the Brisbane Powerhouse is casual, breezy Watt. Order up some duck salad with sweet chilli, rocket and orange, or a smoked ham-hock terrine with lentils and cornichons. Wines by the glass; DJ tunes on Sunday afternoons. Eat in the bar or the pricier restaurant.

Smoke BBQBARBECUE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3358 1922; www.thesmokebbq.com.au; 85 Merthyr Rd, New Farm; mains $15-38; icon-hoursgifh11.30am-2pm Tue-Sun, 6-9pm Mon-Sun)

The smell of hickory hangs heavy in the air of this American-style BBQ joint. The menu includes tender short ribs, pulled pork and charcoal chicken (with vodka barbecue sauce), along with requisite sides like coleslaw, mac-and-cheese and fries. In-house joke: 'The trouble with barbecue is two or three days later you're hungry again'.

Himalayan CafeNEPALESE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3358 4015; 640 Brunswick St, New Farm; mains $15-25; icon-hoursgifh5.30-10pm Tue-Sun; icon-veggifv)

Awash with prayer flags and colourful cushions, this karmically positive, unfussy restaurant serves authentic Tibetan and Nepalese fare such as tender fhaiya darkau (lamb with vegies, coconut milk and spices). Repeat the house mantra: ‘May positive forces be with every single living thing that exists’.

West End

icon-top-choiceoGeorge's SeafoodFISH & CHIPS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3844 4100; 150 Boundary St, West End; mains $7-16; icon-hoursgifh11am-8pm Mon, 9.30am-8pm Tue-Sat, 10.30am-8pm Sun)

With a counter full of fresh mud crabs, Moreton Bay rock oysters, banana prawns and whole snapper, this old-time fish-and-chipper has had a facelift but is still the real deal. The $9.50 cod-and-chips dinner is unbeatable.

SwampdogSEAFOOD

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3255 3715; www.swampdog.com.au; 186 Vulture St, West End; mains $10-15; icon-hoursgifhnoon-8.30pm)icon-sustainableS

'Change the way you eat fish and chips' is the motto here, a busy seafood shack on an unforgiving stretch of Vulture St (hell for parking). Sourced from sustainable fisheries, the product here is fresh and filling (try the sardines on sourdough). 'This is restaurant quality at less than cafe prices!' says one happy customer.

BurrowCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3846 0030; www.theburrowwestend.com.au; 37 Mollison St, West End; mains $10-17; icon-hoursgifh7am-late Tue-Sun; icon-wifigifW)

In the open-sided understorey of a shambling old Queenslander, Burrow is a Baja California cantina crossed with a student share-house: laid-back and beachy with surf murals and wafting Pink Floyd. Try the hangover-removing Bill Murray cheeseburger (heavy on the Jarlsberg); or a Big Voodoo Daddy pizza with jerk chicken, Cajun sausage and bourbon BBQ glaze. Craft beer, too.

Blackstar Coffee RoastersCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.blackstarcoffee.com.au; 44 Thomas St, West End; mains $7-13; icon-hoursgifh7am-5pm)

A neighbourhood fave, West End’s own bean roaster has top coffee, a simple breakfast menu (wraps, spanakopita, eggs Benedict), wailing Roy Orbison and regular spoken-word and ukulele nights (not at the same time...). Grab a cold-pressed coffee on a hot day.

Chop Chop Chang'sASIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3846 7746; www.chopchopchangs.com.au; 185 Boundary St, West End; mains $12-22; icon-hoursgifh11.30am-3pm & 5.30-9.30pm)

'Happiness never decreases by being shared.' So said the Buddha. And the hungry hordes at Chop Chop Chang's seem to concur, passing around bowls of pan-Asian street food and bottles of sriracha chilli sauce with smiles on their faces. Try the caramelised pork with tamarind. Open later on Friday and Saturday nights.

icon-top-choiceoGunshop CaféCAFE, MODERN AUSTRALIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3844 2241; www.thegunshopcafe.com; 53 Mollison St, West End; mains $16-29; icon-hoursgifh6.30am-2pm Mon, to late Tue-Sat, to 2.30pm Sun)

With cool tunes, quirky lighting and happy staff, this peaceably repurposed gun shop has exposed-brick walls, sculptural ceiling lamps and an inviting back garden. The locally sourced menu changes daily, but regulars include Hervey Bay scallops with crab, zucchini fritters and saffron yogurt; and excellent brioche French toast for breakfast. Craft beers, Australian wines and afternoon pick-me-ups available.

Little Greek TavernaGREEK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3255 2215; www.littlegreektaverna.com.au; Shop 5, 1 Browning St, West End; mains $15-17, banquets per person $35-43; icon-hoursgifh11am-9pm)

Up-tempo, eternally busy and in a prime West End location, the LGT is a great spot for a big Greek feast and some people watching. Launch into a prawn and saganaki salad or a classic lamb gyros (souvlaki), washed down with a sleep-defeating Greek coffee. It's kid-friendly, too.

CaravanseraiTURKISH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3217 2617; www.caravanserairestaurant.com.au; 1 Dornoch Tce, West End; mains $24-34; icon-hoursgifhnoon-2.30pm Fri & Sat, 6pm-late Tue-Sun)

Woven tablecloths, red walls and candlelit tables create a snug atmosphere at this standout Turkish restaurant. Share an 'Istanbul Sublime' meze platter (grilled halloumi, kofta meatballs, garlic prawns and more good stuff), or tuck into the excellent lamb ribs.

Petrie Terrace

ScoutCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.scoutcafe.com.au; 190 Petrie Tce, Petrie Terrace; mains $6-18; icon-hoursgifh7am-4pm)

This old-timey neighbourhood shopfront was vacant for 17 years before Scout showed up and started selling bagels. The vibe is downbeat, affable and arty. If the breakfast bagel doesn't tempt, order some Macedonian beans with feta and roasted cherry tomatoes and watch the kids scribble chalk drawings on the footpath in the sun.

Tibetan KitchenTIBETAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3367 0955; www.tibetankitchen.com.au/springhill; 216 Petrie Tce, Petrie Terrace; mains $14-19; icon-hoursgifh5.30pm-late; icon-veggifv)

Tasty Tibetan fare beneath paper lanterns and a massive pair of Tibetan Buddhist horns suspended from the ceiling. Try the bakra ko tihun (goat curry on the bone with pumpkin and squash). And if you've never tasted Nepalese rice beer, here's your chance.

Paddington

Gelateria CremonaGELATERIA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3367 0212; 5/151 Baroona Rd, Rosalie; gelato from $4.80; icon-hoursgifh5-10pm Mon, 2-10pm Tue-Fri, 1-10pm Sat & Sun; icon-veggifv)

Authentic Italian gelato in dinky little tubs or cones, perfect for a promenade on a humid Brisbane evening. Try the classic salted caramel or Dutch chocolate, or a lighter seasonal fruit sorbet (terrific feijoa!). It's down the hill from the main Paddington strip in the cute Rosalie shopping enclave.

Merlo TorrefazioneCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3368 2099; www.merlo.com.au; 1/78 Latrobe Tce, Paddington; items $3-6; icon-hoursgifh6am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun)

Keeping Paddington awake, this roaster-cafe is one of several Merlos around town (a local success story). Bite a biscuit or sniff at some slice, but what you’re really here for is the coffee: a bag of beans to go or a quick-fire cup, strong enough to get you through 'til the next one.

Il PostoITALIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%07-3367 3111; www.ilposto.com.au; 107 Latrobe Tce, Paddington; mains $20-29; icon-hoursgifhnoon-4pm Wed-Sun & 5.30pm-late daily)

Pizza and pasta just like they make in Rome, served on an outdoor piazza (or inside if it's too humid). Pizzas come either rosse or bianche (with or without tomato base), and are thin and crispy. Great staff, Peroni beer on tap, and kid-friendly too (also just like Rome).

6Drinking & Nightlife

The prime drinking destination in Brisbane is Fortitude Valley, with its lounges, live-music bars and nightclubs (both straight and gay). Most clubs here are open Wednesday to Sunday nights; some are free, others charge up to $20. Dress nicely and bring your ID. In the CBD there’s a bottoms-up after-work crowd, while the West End has cool bars full of inner-city funksters. New Farm has some hip bars, attracting a mostly neighbourhood crowd.

Greater Brisbane

icon-top-choiceoGreen Beacon Brewing CoBREWERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.greenbeacon.com.au; 26 Helen St, Teneriffe; icon-hoursgifh5pm-late Mon & Tue, noon-late Wed & Thu, 11am-late Fri-Sun)

In the photogenic red-brick backstreets of Teneriffe, this excellent new brewery is packing them in. Behind the long bar is a row of vast stainless-steel vats, where the good stuff ferments before flowing through the taps and into your glass: hand-crafted pale ale, wheat beer, amber ale, IPA and porter, plus seasonal specials and moreish bar food. Winner!

CanvasWINE BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.canvasclub.com.au; 16b Logan Rd, Woolloongabba; icon-hoursgifhnoon-midnight Tue-Fri, 8am-midnight Sat & Sun)

In the shadow of the Gabba cricket ground, Canvas is hip, compact and arty. Step down off Logan St – an emerging eating/drinking/antiques hub – pause to ogle the kooky mural, then order a ‘Guerrilla Warfare’ cocktail from the moustached bartender.

Breakfast Creek HotelPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.breakfastcreekhotel.com; 2 Kingsford Smith Dr, Albion; icon-hoursgifh10am-late)

This historic 1889 pub is a Brisbane classic. Built in lavish French Renaissance style, it has various bars and dining areas, including a beer garden and an art-deco ‘private bar’ where you can drink beer tapped from a wooden keg. The stylish Substation No 41 bar serves cocktails and legendary steaks.

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