Darwin & Around

Darwin & Around

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Why Go?

The Top End is frontier country. It feels wild out here; time spent exploring the region's outer reaches will calibrate your senses away from urban grit. The wildness comes in many forms – from remote Arnhem Land to backpackers letting loose on Darwin's Mitchell St.

You will find unparalleled opportunities to experience timeless Indigenous culture, and the legacy left behind from tens of thousands of years of occupation. Indigenous rock art has left an extraordinary mark on the landscape – an ancient diary of human existence, seemingly oblivious to years of climatic onslaught.

The cosmopolitan capital of Darwin is Australia's doorway to Asia and celebrates its multicultural mix with delicious fusion cuisine and a relaxed tropical vibe. Darwin feels more like a big town than a city, and the dreamy coastline around its outer reaches rakes at the heart when a blood red sun is dipping over the horizon.

When to Go

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AApr–Aug Peak season with lower humidity in the north.

AJun & Jul Darwin is alight with the sounds, sights and cultural blitz of the Fringe Festival.

ASep–Mar Barramundi fishing heats up as the Wet turns the Top End into a watery wonderland.

Darwin & Around Highlights

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1 Seeing glinting crocodile eyes peering from the watery wonderland of Kakadu National Park.

2 Sampling a satay and other exotic fare at Darwin's Mindil Beach Sunset Market.

3 Plunging into a cascading, crystal-clear rock pool at Litchfield National Park.

4 Hooking up a barra on the Daly or Mary Rivers; some of Australia's best barramundi fishing.

5 Touring remote and hypnotically beautiful Arnhem Land and experiencing some Indigenous culture.

6 Experiencing the unique Indigenous culture of the Tiwi Islands, and picking up some excellent local souvenirs.

7 Marvelling at Australia's unique critters in the Territory Wildlife Park.

History

Early European attempts to settle the Top End were mainly due to British fears that the French or Dutch might get a foothold in Australia. The Brits established three forts between 1824 and 1838, but all were short-lived. Then the desire for more grazing land and trade routes spurred speculators from Queensland and South Australia (SA) to explore the vast untamed north. With an eye to development, SA governors annexed the Northern Territory (NT) in 1863 (it became self-governing only in 1978).

From the mid-1860s to 1895 hundreds of thousands of sheep, cattle and horses were overlanded to immense pastoral settlements. Dislocation and hardship were bedfellows of the industry, with Aboriginal Australians forced from their lands and pastoralists confronted by a swath of difficulties. Some Indigenous people took employment as stockmen or domestic servants on cattle stations, while others moved on in an attempt to maintain their traditional lifestyle.

In the early 1870s, during digging to establish the Overland Telegraph (from Adelaide to Darwin), gold was discovered. A minor rush ensued, with an influx of Chinese prospectors. Though the gold finds were relatively insignificant, the searches for it unearthed a wealth of natural resources that would lead to mining becoming a major economic presence.

WWII had a significant impact on the NT. Just weeks after the Japanese levelled Darwin, causing 243 deaths, the entire NT north of Alice Springs was placed under military control, with 32,000 soldiers stationed in the Top End.

On Christmas morning 1974, Darwin was flattened again by Cyclone Tracy, which killed 71 people.

1Indigenous Northern Territory

Aboriginal Australian have occupied parts of the NT for around 60,000 years, although the central regions were not inhabited until about 24,000 years ago. The first significant contact with outsiders occurred in the 17th century when Macassan traders from modern-day Sulawesi in Indonesia came to the Top End to collect trepang (sea cucumber).

While the process of white settlement in the NT was slower than elsewhere in Australia, it had an equally troubled and violent effect. By the early 20th century, most Aboriginal people were confined to government reserves or Christian missions. During the 1960s Aboriginal people began to demand more rights.

In 1966 a group of Aboriginal stockmen, led by Vincent Lingiari, went on strike on Wave Hill Station, to protest over the low wages and poor conditions that they received compared with white stockmen. The Wave Hill walk-off gave rise to the Aboriginal land-rights movement.

In 1976 the Aboriginal Land Rights (Northern Territory) Act was passed in Canberra. It handed over all reserves and mission lands in the NT to Aboriginal people and allowed Aboriginal groups to claim vacant government land if they could prove continuous occupation − provided the land wasn't already leased, in a town or set aside for some other special purpose.

Today, Aboriginal people own about half of the land in the NT, including Kakadu and Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Parks, which are leased back to the federal government. Minerals on Aboriginal land are still government property, though the landowners' permission is usually required for exploration and mining, and landowners are remunerated.

Around 30% of the NT's 200,000 people are Aboriginal Australians. While non-Aboriginal Australia's awareness of the need for reconciliation with the Indigenous community has increased in recent years, there are still huge gulfs between the cultures. Entrenched disadvantage and substance abuse are causing enormous social problems within some Indigenous communities.

It's often difficult for short-term visitors to make meaningful contact with Indigenous people, as they generally prefer to be left to themselves. The impressions given by some Aboriginal people on the streets of Alice Springs, Katherine and Darwin, where social problems and substance abuse among a few people can present an unpleasant picture, are not indicative of Aboriginal communities as a whole.

Tours to Aboriginal lands (most operated by the communities themselves) and visits to arts centres are gradually becoming more widely available, as communities feel more inclined to share their culture. Benefits are numerous: financial gain through self-determined endeavour, and educating non-Aboriginal people about traditional culture and customs, which helps to alleviate the problems caused by the ignorance and misunderstandings of the past.

1National Parks

Aside from Darwin, the Top End is all about its national parks; it has some of the largest and most famous natural areas in Australia, including Kakadu and Litchfield. Parks Australia (www.environment.gov.au/parks) manages Kakadu, while the Parks & Wildlife Commission of the Northern Territory manages the other parks and produces fact sheets, available online or from its various offices.

2Activities

Bushwalking

The NT's national parks offer well-maintained tracks of different lengths and degrees of difficulty, which introduce walkers to various environments and wildlife habitats. Carry plenty of water, take rubbish out with you and stick to the tracks. Top bushwalks include the Barrk Sandstone Bushwalk in Kakadu National Park.

Fishing

No permit is required to fish the NT's waterways, though there are limits on the minimum size and number of fish per person. Travel NT publishes some info online (www.travelnt.com). The Amateur Fishermen's Association of the Northern Territory (www.afant.com.au) also has online info.

The feisty barramundi lures most fisherfolk to the Top End, particularly to Borroloola, Daly River and Mary River. Increasingly, the recreational-fishing fraternity encourages catch and release to maintain sustainable fish levels. Loads of tours offer transport and gear and start at $275 per person.

Swimming

The cool waterfalls, waterholes and rejuvenating thermal pools throughout the Top End are perfect spots to soak. Litchfield National Park is particularly rewarding.

Saltwater crocodiles inhabit both salt and fresh waters in the Top End, though there are quite a few safe, natural swimming holes. Before taking the plunge, be sure to obey the signs and seek local advice. If in doubt, don't risk it.

Box jellyfish seasonally infest the sea around Darwin; swimming at the city's beaches is safest from May to September.

Wildlife Watching

The best place for guaranteed wildlife sightings, from bilbies to emus, is at excellent Territory Wildlife Park outside Darwin.

If you prefer to see wildlife in the wild, there are few guarantees; many of the region's critters are nocturnal. One exception is at Kakadu, where you'll certainly see crocodiles at Cahill's Crossing or Yellow Waters, and numerous species of bird at its wealth of wetlands.

8Information

Resources

Parks & Wildlife Commission of the Northern TerritoryTOURIST INFORMATION

(icon-phonegif%08-8999 4555; www.parksandwildlife.nt.gov.au)

Details on NT parks and reserves, including fact sheets.

Road ReportCAR

(icon-phonegif%1800 246 199; www.roadreport.nt.gov.au)

NT road conditions.

Tourism Top EndTOURIST INFORMATION

(www.tourismtopend.com.au)

Darwin-based tourism body.

Travel NTTOURIST INFORMATION

(www.travelnt.com)

Official tourism site.

Aboriginal Land Permits

Permits may be required to enter Aboriginal land, unless you are using recognised public roads that cross Aboriginal territory. Permits can take four to six weeks to be processed, although for the Injalak Arts Centre at Gunbalanya (Oenpelli) they are generally issued on the spot in Jabiru ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8938 3000; Flinders St, Jabiru; icon-hoursgifh8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri).

Northern Land CouncilTOURIST INFORMATION

(www.nlc.org.au)

Responsible for land north of a line drawn between Kununurra (Western Australia) and Mt Isa (Queensland). Branch in Katherine ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8971 9802; 5 Katherine Tce).

Tiwi Land CouncilTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8970 9373; www.tiwilandcouncil.com)

Permits for the Tiwi Islands.

8Getting There & Around

Air

International and domestic flights arrive at and depart from Darwin International Airport ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.darwinairport.com.au; Henry Wrigley Dr, Marrara) There are also flights between Darwin, Alice Springs and Uluru.

AirnorthAIRLINE

(www.airnorth.com.au)

To/from East Timor, and to Arnhem Land, Broome, Perth, Kununurra and the Gold Coast.

JetstarAIRLINE

(www.jetstar.com.au)

Services most major Australian cities and several Southeast Asian cities.

QantasAIRLINE

(www.qantas.com.au)

To/from Asia and Europe, and servicing all major Australian cities.

Virgin AustraliaAIRLINE

(www.virginaustralia.com)

Direct flights between Darwin and Brisbane, Melbourne, Perth and Sydney.

Bus

Greyhound Australia (www.greyhound.com.au) regularly services the main road routes throughout the NT, including side trips to Kakadu.

Alternatively, there are tour-bus companies such as AAT Kings, and backpacker buses that cover vast distances while savouring the sights along the way.

Car

To truly explore the Top End by car, you'll need a well-prepared 4WD vehicle and some outback nous. The Automobile Association of the Northern Territory (AANT; GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8925 5901; www.aant.com.au; 2/14 Knuckey St, Darwin; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 12.30pm Sat) can advise on preparation and additional resources; members of automobile associations in other Australian states have reciprocal rights.

Many roads are open to conventional cars and campervans, which can be hired in Darwin and Alice Springs, and can work out to be quite economical when split by a group.

Some driving conditions are particular to the NT. While traffic may be light and roads dead straight, distances between places are long. Watch out for the four great NT road hazards: speed (maximum speed on the open highway is 130km/h), driver fatigue, road trains and animals (driving at night is particularly dangerous). Note that some roads are regularly closed during the Wet due to flooding; head to www.ntlis.nt.gov.au/roadreport/ for information.

Train

The famous interstate Ghan train is run by Great Southern Rail (icon-phonegif%13 21 47; www.gsr.com.au), grinding between Darwin and Adelaide via Katherine and Alice Springs. The Ghan is met in Port Augusta (SA) by the Indian Pacific, which travels between Sydney and Perth; and in Adelaide by the Overland, which travels to/from Melbourne.

The Ghan has three levels of sleeper berths plus a chair class.

Darwin

icon-phonegif%08 / Pop 127,500 / Time GMT/UTC +9.5 (Australia Central Standard Time)

Australia's only tropical capital city, Darwin gazes out confidently across the Timor Sea. It's closer to Bali than Bondi and can certainly feel removed from the rest of the country.

Darwin has plenty to offer the traveller. Chairs and tables spill out of streetside restaurants and bars, innovative museums celebrate the city's past, and galleries showcase the region's rich Indigenous art. Darwin's cosmopolitan mix − more than 50 nationalities are seamlessly represented here − is typified by the wonderful markets held throughout the dry season.

Nature is well and truly part of Darwin's backyard: the famous national parks of Kakadu and Litchfield are only a few hours' drive away, and the unique Tiwi Islands are a boat ride away. For locals the perfect weekend is going fishing for barra in a tinny (small boat) with an esky full of cold beer.

History

The Larrakia Aboriginal people lived for thousands of years in Darwin, hunting, fishing and foraging. In 1869 a permanent white settlement was established and the grid for a new town laid out. Originally called Palmerston, and renamed Darwin in 1911, the new town developed rapidly, transforming the physical and social landscape.

The discovery of gold at nearby Pine Creek brought an influx of Chinese, who soon settled into other industries. Asians and Islanders came to work in the pearling industry and on the railway line and wharf. More recently, neighbouring East Timorese and Papuans have sought asylum in Darwin.

During WWII, Darwin was the frontline for the Allied action against the Japanese in the Pacific. It was the only Australian city ever bombed, and official reports of the time downplayed the damage − to buoy Australians' morale. Though the city wasn't destroyed by the attacks, the impact of full-scale military occupation on Darwin was enormous.

More physically damaging was Cyclone Tracy, which hit Darwin at around midnight on Christmas Eve 1974. By Christmas morning, Darwin effectively ceased to exist as a city, with only 400 of its 11,200 homes left standing and 71 people killed. The town was rebuilt to a new, stringent building code and has steadily expanded outwards and upwards.

1Sights

Central Darwin

icon-top-choiceoCrocosaurus CoveZOO

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8981 7522; www.crocosauruscove.com; 58 Mitchell St; adult/child $32/20; icon-hoursgifh9am-6pm, last admission 5pm)

If the tourists won't go out to see the crocs, then bring the crocs to the tourists. Right in the middle of Mitchell St, Crocosaurus Cove is as close as you'll ever want to get to these amazing creatures. Six of the largest crocs in captivity can be seen in state-of-the-art aquariums and pools. Other aquariums feature barramundi, turtles and stingrays, plus there's an enormous reptile house (allegedly displaying the greatest variety of reptiles in the country).

You can be lowered right into a pool with the crocs in the transparent Cage of Death (one/two people $160/240). If that's too scary, there's another pool where you can swim with a clear tank wall separating you from some mildly less menacing baby crocs.

George Brown Botanic GardensGARDENS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://www.parksandwildlife.nt.gov.au/botanic; Geranium St, Stuart Park; icon-hoursgifh7am-7pm, information centre 8am-4pm)icon-freeF

Named after the gardens' curator from 1971 to 1990, these 42-hectare gardens showcase plants from the Top End and around the world: monsoon vine forest, the mangroves and coastal plants habitat, baobabs, and a magnificent collection of native and exotic palms and cycads.

The gardens are an easy 2km bicycle ride out from Darwin, along Gilruth Ave and Gardens Rd, or there's another entrance off Geranium St, which runs off the Stuart Hwy in Stuart Park. Alternatively, bus 7 from the city stops near the Stuart Hwy/Geranium St corner.

Many of the plants here were traditionally used by the local Aboriginal people, and self-guiding Aboriginal plant-use trails have been set up; pick up a brochure at the gardens' information centre near the Geranium St entry. You'll also find birdwatching brochures and garden maps here.

Myilly Point Heritage PrecinctHISTORIC SITE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

At the far northern end of Smith St is this small but important precinct of four houses built from 1930 to 1939 (which means they survived both the WWII bombings and Cyclone Tracy!). They're now managed by the National Trust. One of them, Burnett House ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.nationaltrustnt.org.au; by donation; icon-hoursgifh10am-1pm Mon-Sat, 2.30-5pm Sun), operates as a museum. There's a tantalising colonial high tea ($10) in the gardens on Sunday afternoon from 3pm between April and October.

Darwin Waterfront Precinct

The bold redevelopment of the old Darwin Waterfront Precinct (www.waterfront.nt.gov.au) has transformed the city. The multimillion-dollar redevelopment features a cruise-ship terminal, luxury hotels, boutique restaurants and shopping, the Sky Bridge, an elevated walkway and elevator at the south end of Smith St, and a Wave Lagoon.

Wave & Recreation LagoonsWATER PARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8985 6588; www.waterfront.nt.gov.au; Wave Lagoon adult/child $7/5; icon-hoursgifhWave Lagoon 10am-6pm)

The hugely popular Wave Lagoon is a hit with locals and travellers alike. There are 10 different wave patterns produced (20 minutes on with a 10-minute rest in between) and there are lifeguards, a kiosk and a strip of lawn to bask on. Adjacent is the Recreation Lagoon with a sandy beach, lifeguards and stinger-filtered seawater (although the nets and filters are not guaranteed to be 100% effective).

WWII Oil-Storage TunnelsTUNNEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8985 6322; www.darwintours.com.au/ww2tunnels; self-guided tour per person $7; icon-hoursgifh9am-4pm May-Sep, to 1pm Oct-Apr)

You can escape from the heat of the day and relive your Hitchcockian fantasies by walking through the WWII oil-storage tunnels. They were built in 1942 to store the navy’s oil supplies (but never used); now they exhibit wartime photos.

Indo-Pacific Marine ExhibitionAQUARIUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8981 1294; www.indopacificmarine.com.au; 29 Stokes Hill Rd; adult/child $24/10; icon-hoursgifh10am-4pm Apr-Oct, call Nov-Mar)

This excellent marine aquarium at the Waterfront Precinct gives you a close encounter with the denizens at the bottom of Darwin Harbour. Each small tank is a complete ecosystem, with only the occasional extra fish introduced as food for some of the predators, such as stonefish or the bizarre angler fish.

Also recommended here is the Coral Reef by Night ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8981 1294; www.indopacificmarine.com.au; 29 Stokes Hill Rd; adult/child $120/60; icon-hoursgifh6.30pm Wed, Fri & Sun), which consists of a tour of the aquarium, seafood dinner (on biodegradable plates, no less!) and an impressive show of fluorescing animals.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

PARAP VILLAGE MARKET

Parap Village is a foodie's heaven with several good restaurants, bars and cafes as well as the highly recommended deli Parap Fine Foods ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8981 8597; www.parapfinefoods.com; 40 Parap Rd, Parap; icon-hoursgifh8am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat, 9am-1pm Sun). However, it's the Saturday morning markets that attract locals like bees to honey. It's got a relaxed vibe as breakfast merges into brunch and then lunch. Between visits to the takeaway food stalls (most serving spicy Southeast Asian snacks) shoppers stock up on tropical fruit and vegetables − all you need to make your own laksa or rendang. The produce is local so you know it's fresh.

Fannie Bay

icon-top-choiceoMuseum & Art Gallery of the Northern TerritoryMUSEUM

(MAGNT; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8999 8264; www.magnt.net.au; 19 Conacher St, Fannie Bay; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun)icon-freeF

This superb museum and gallery boasts beautifully presented galleries of Top End–centric exhibits. The Aboriginal art collection is a highlight, with carvings from the Tiwi Islands, bark paintings from Arnhem Land and dot paintings from the desert. An entire room is devoted to Cyclone Tracy, in a display that graphically illustrates life before and after the disaster. You can stand in a darkened room and listen to the whirring sound of Tracy at full throttle − a sound you won't forget in a hurry.

The cavernous Maritime Gallery houses an assortment of weird and wonderful crafts from the nearby islands and Indonesia, as well as a pearling lugger and a Vietnamese refugee boat.

Pride of place among the stuffed animals undoubtedly goes to Sweetheart: a 5m-long, 780kg saltwater crocodile. It became a Top End personality after attacking several fishing dinghies on the Finniss River, south of Darwin.

The museum has a good bookshop, and the Cornucopia Cafe is a great lunch spot with views over the sea.

Fannie Bay Gaol MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8999 8290; http://artsandmuseums.nt.gov.au/museums/moretosee/gaolitage/visit/gaol; cnr East Point Rd & Ross Smith Ave; by donation; icon-hoursgifh10am-3pm)

This interesting (if slightly grim) museum represents almost 100 years of solitude. Serving as Darwin's main jail from 1883 to 1979, the solid cells contain information panels that provide a window into the region's unique social history. Lepers, refugees and juveniles were among the groups of people confined here. You can still see the old cells, and the gallows constructed for two hangings in 1952.

Defence of Darwin ExperienceMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8981 9702; www.defenceofdarwin.nt.gov.au; adult/child/family $14/5.50/35; icon-hoursgifh9.30am-5pm)

At this innovative, multimedia experience, you can hear personal accounts of those affected by, or those who actively participated in, Australia's defence during WWII. Darwin and the Top End is the focus – the area was bombed 64 times, with 188 aircraft attacking the city on 19 February 1942. A small theatre runs a 20-minute show bringing it all to life. On East Point’s northern side is a series of WWII gun emplacements and the Darwin Military Museum.

Northern Centre for Contemporary ArtGALLERY

(NCCA; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8981 5368; http://nccart.com.au; Vimy Lane, Parap Shopping Village; icon-hoursgifh10am-4pm Wed-Fri, to 2pm Sat)icon-freeF

The NCCA is a really small space but has some changing and challenging exhibitions. It's worth checking out while doing the Parap Market.

DARWIN IN…

TWO DAYS

Start with breakfast at Four Birds ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0408 729 708; 32 Smith St Mall, Shop 2, Star Village; items $6-12; icon-hoursgifh7am-3pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2pm Sat) or Roma Bar, flipping through the Northern Territory News. Take a stroll downtown and through Bicentennial Park ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.darwin.nt.gov.au; icon-hoursgifh24hr). Don't miss the high-tide action at Aquascene ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8981 7837; www.aquascene.com.au; 28 Doctors Gully Rd; adult/child $15/10; icon-hoursgifhhigh tide, check website) and as the day warms up, head down to the waterfront precinct, stopping for lunch at Curve and a dip in the Wave Lagoon. As the sun sets, make your way to Mindil Beach Sunset Market, packed with food outlets, buskers and souvenirs.

On day two, hire a bike and head out to the Museum & Art Gallery of the Northern Territory, then lunch at the adjacent Cornucopia Cafe. Continue your coastal jaunt with visits to the East Point Reserve and the Defence of Darwin Experience. At night, hit the bars along Mitchell St, or find a quiet waterfront restaurant at Cullen Bay then catch a movie under the stars at the Deckchair Cinema.

Outer East

Crocodylus ParkZOO

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.crocodyluspark.com.au; 815 McMillans Rd, Berrimah; adult/child $40/20; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm)

Crocodylus Park showcases hundreds of crocs and a minizoo comprising lions, tigers and other big cats, spider monkeys, marmosets, cassowaries and large birds. Allow about two hours to look around the whole park, and you should time your visit with a tour (10am, noon, 2pm & 3.30pm), which includes a feeding demonstration. Croc-meat BBQ packs for sale!

The park is about 15km from the city centre. Take bus 5 from Darwin.

2Activities

Beaches & Swimming

Darwin is no beach paradise − naturally enough the harbour has no surf − but along the convoluted coastline north of the city centre is a string of sandy beaches. The most popular are Mindil and Vestey's on Fannie Bay. Further north, a stretch of the 7km Casuarina Beach is an official nude beach. Darwin's swimming beaches tend to be far enough away from mangrove creeks to make the threat of meeting a crocodile very remote. A bigger problem is the deadly box jellyfish, which makes swimming decidedly unhealthy between October and March (and often before October and until May). You can swim year-round without fear of stingers in the western part of Lake Alexander, an easy cycle from the centre at East Point ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-hoursgifhmangrove boardwalk 8am-6pm), and at the very popular Wave & Recreation Lagoons, the centrepiece of the Darwin Wharf Precinct. At the Recreation Lagoon, filtered seawater and nets provide a natural seawater swim.

Sailing

Darwin Sailing ClubSAILING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8981 1700; www.dwnsail.com.au)

A good place to meet local yachties, and an excellent place to watch the sunset over a beer. Although you can't charter boats here, there is a noticeboard advertising crewing needs and detailing the seasonal race program. Qualified instructors are available for sailing and windsurfing lessons.

Cycling

Darwin is great for cycling (in winter!). Traffic is light and a series of bike tracks covers most of the city, with the main one running from the northern end of Cavenagh St to Fannie Bay, Coconut Grove, Nightcliff and Casuarina. At Fannie Bay, a side track heads out to the East Point Reserve. Consider heading for Charles Darwin National Park ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.parksandwildlife.nt.gov.au/parks/find/charlesdarwin#; icon-hoursgifh8am-7pm), 5km southeast of the city, with a few kilometres of path around the park's wetlands, woodlands and WWII bunkers.

Some hostels hire out bicycles for $15 to $25 per day for a mountain bike, or try the following:

Darwin Scooter HireCYCLING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8941 2434; www.thescootershop.com.au; 9 Daly St; icon-hoursgifh8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat)

Mountain bikes for $20 a day ($100 deposit required).

Skydiving

Top End TandemsADVENTURE SPORTS

(icon-phonegif%0417 190 140; www.topendtandems.com.au; tandem jumps from $380)

Tandem skydives starting at Darwin Airport and landing at Lee Point Reserve.

TTours

There are dozens of tours in and around Darwin, and lots of combinations covering Kakadu, Arnhem Land, Litchfield and further afield.

City Tours

Batji Indigenous Waterfront Walking TourCULTURAL TOUR

(icon-phonegif%0416 731 353; www.batjitours.com.au; adult/child $70/free; icon-hoursgifh10am Wed & Fri)

An excellent two-hour walking tour along the Esplanade run by the Larrakia people of Darwin. You will learn about the local wildlife, discover Lameroo beach and gain insight into places of cultural significance to the Larrakia people.

Darwin ExplorerBUS TOUR

(icon-phonegif%0416 140 903; http://theaustralianexplorer.com.au/darwin-explorer.html; 24hr ticket adult/child $35/20)

Open-top bus tours that explore Darwin's major sights; hop on/hop off with either a 24-hour or 48-hour ticket. Departs every 30 minutes from the tourist information centre.

Tour TubBUS TOUR

(icon-phonegif%08-8985 6322; www.tourtub.com.au; adult/child $100/60)

Offering five-hour guided, minibus tours around Darwin's big-ticket sights; price includes admission charges to attractions such as Defence of Darwin Experience.

Sea DarwinNATURE

(icon-phonegif%1300 065 022; www.seadarwin.com; tours adult/child from $35/20)icon-sustainableS

One-, two-, or three-hour eco tours around the city and Darwin Harbour, checking out mangroves, a crocodile trap, a shipwreck and (if you're lucky) dugongs and dolphins.

Darwin Day ToursTOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1300 721 365; www.darwindaytours.com.au; afternoon city tours adult/child $75/38)

Runs an afternoon city tour that takes in all the major attractions, including Stokes Hill Wharf, the Museum & Art Gallery and East Point Reserve. Can be linked with a 'sunset fish 'n' chips harbour cruise' ($55/40).

Harbour Cruises

Between April and October there are plenty of boats based at the Cullen Bay Marina and Stokes Hill Wharf to take you on a cruise of the harbour.

Anniki Pearl Lugger CruisesBOAT TOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0428 414 000; www.australianharbourcruises.com.au; tours adult/child $70/50)

Three-hour sunset cruises on this historical pearling lugger depart from Cullen Bay Marina and include sparkling wine and nibbles. You might recognise the ship from the film Australia.

Sunset SailBOAT TOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0408 795 567; www.sailnt.com.au; tours adult/child $70/45)

This three-hour afternoon cruise aboard the catamaran Daymirri 2 departs from Stokes Hill Wharf. Refreshments are included but BYO alcohol.

Territory Trips

Tiwi ToursCULTURAL TOUR

(icon-phonegif%1300 721 365; www.aussieadventures.com.au; adult/child including flights $550/410)

Small-group cultural tours out to the nearby Tiwi Islands with Indigenous guides (adult/child including flights $550/410). Kakadu and Litchfield tours also available through the company's other brands: Darwin Day Tours and Aussie Adventure.

Northern Territory Indigenous ToursCULTURAL TOUR

(icon-phonegif%1300 921 188; www.ntitours.com.au; adult/child $249/124)

Upmarket Indigenous tours to Litchfield National Park.

Sacred Earth SafarisADVENTURE TOUR

(icon-phonegif%08-8555 3838; www.sacredearthsafaris.com.au)

Multiday, small-group 4WD camping tours around Kakadu, Katherine and the Kimberley. Two-day Kakadu tour starts at $850; the five-day Top End National Parks Safari is $2600.

Kakadu DreamsTOUR

(icon-phonegif%1800 813 266; www.kakadudreams.com.au)

Backpacker day tours to Litchfield ($119), and boisterous two-/three-day trips to Kakadu ($400/535).

Wallaroo ToursTOUR

(icon-phonegif%08-8981 6670; www.wallarootours.com; tours $160)

Small-group tours to Litchfield National Park.

zFestivals & Events

WordStormLITERARY

(www.wordstorm.org.au)

The biannual NT Writers' Festival event in May (even-numbered years), includes song, storytelling, visual-art collaboration, theatre, performance poetry, history, biography, poetry and fiction.

Darwin Blues FestivalMUSIC

(icon-familygifc)

In late June, the Darwin Botanic Gardens charge up with electrifying live blues. Much beer and bending of guitar strings.

Beer Can RegattaCULTURAL

(www.beercanregatta.org.au)

An utterly insane and typically Territorian festival that features races for boats made out of beer cans. It takes place at Mindil Beach in July and is a good, fun day.

Darwin Aboriginal Art FairART

(www.darwinaboriginalartfair.com.au)

Held at the Darwin Convention Centre, this three-day August festival showcases Indigenous art from communities throughout the Territory.

Darwin FestivalART

(www.darwinfestival.org.au)

This mainly outdoor arts and culture festival celebrates music, theatre, visual art, dance and cabaret and runs for 18 days in August. Festivities are centred in the large park next to Civic Square, off Harry Chan Ave.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

DARWIN'S MANY FACES

Darwin is a very multicultural city, with a plethora of people from many different countries living, working and studying here. Following are the impressions of the city from a cross-section of overseas students and staff at Navitas English Darwin.

My initial months in Australia saw me live the cliché:

AIrish share house in Bondi

A‘do’ the east coast

Afarm work in Queensland for visa extension

Tick, tick, tick. However, I couldn’t avoid feeling disillusioned about my highly touted Australian ‘experience’. After all, I hadn’t met many Australians! Then I arrived in Darwin. Within minutes, a friendly local at Nightcliff foreshore welcomed me and the good times skyrocketed. Darwin felt like home and still does five years later. Hang out in the suburbs, on the beaches and at the markets. Party at Happy Yess and the Railway Club. You’ll be a local before you know it.

Frederick Grant (UK)

Mindil Beach Sunset Market is definitely the best place to visit in Darwin. There are a large choice of multicultural foods, local art works, and homemade products. I never get bored no matter how many times I visit. The musical performance that combines modern drums and a guy playing four didgeridoos at the same time was the most fascinating thing I've ever seen in Darwin. Other shows such as fire performances and the Hung drum are stunning as well. Also the sunset seen from the beach with delicious food is breathtaking. This market never fails to make my day.

Haruka Sasaki (Japan)

I love Darwin’s climate and the locals are very welcoming and friendly. In Darwin I just wear T-shirts and shorts. I can explore the city very easily and enjoy its various cultures. There’s lots to do, for example I can see Aboriginal artwork at the gallery, learn about the history of air strikes during WWII or see the Cyclone Tracy exhibition at the museum. I can also enjoy a variety of food from many Asian countries at Darwin’s Mindil Beach Sunset Market, which is very famous. I like to find my spot along the beach, accompanied just by the waving palm leaves, and watch the sunset.

Eugenio De Jesus Pereira (East Timor)

My favorite thing to do around Darwin is participating in Aboriginal cultural festivals. These festivals provided me with a realistic experience of Aboriginal culture. I get to experience eating bush tucker, such as river turtles and bush potatoes, as well as appreciating inventive Aboriginal arts and dyeing plant strips for craft at the Merrepen Arts Festival in the Daly River community of Nauiyu near Darwin. I was given the opportunity to talk with Aboriginal people about their unique perspectives, in particular I was awed by their concept of the interconnectedness within nature. Their greater appreciation of oneness makes me realise what is truly important.

Kenji Azuma (Japan)

My favourite thing in Darwin is Nightcliff Beach, it’s a beautiful place. I always go there with my friends in the evening. There is a jetty on the sea, which is very beautiful and unusual in the dimness of the evening light. I like to sit down on the rocks which are close to the jetty. I enjoy the sea breeze and listen to the sound of waves lapping against the rocks. At that time I feel calm and relaxed. It is the healing harbour when I am sad.

Xiaoman DU (China)

Darwin’s colours are what I think make it unique. There is an intensity in the blues and greens of sea- and plant-life, the reds and oranges of the rocks and earth, the pinks and lilacs of the sunsets on the sea. The colours come in combinations I have seen nowhere else and are absolutely an artist’s Top End palette – and it’s year-round. That coupled with the diversity of its people – you just have to take a number 4 bus on a school day to see how truly multicultural this small city is – make for a colourful town. I can’t help but feel I’m pretty fortunate to experience living in this in-your-face place.

Ellie Keegan (UK)

4Sleeping

Darwin has a good range of accommodation, most of it handy to the CBD, but finding a bed in the peak May to September period can be difficult at short notice − book ahead, at least for the first night. Accommodation prices vary greatly with the season and demand; expect big discounts between November and March, especially for midrange and top-end accommodation.

Backpacker hostels fluctuate the least, and prices differ little between places − concentrated as they are in a small stretch of bar-heavy Mitchell St. If you want a quieter stay, choose somewhere a bit further out − they're usually still within walking distance of the action. Hostel facilities generally include communal kitchen, pool and laundry facilities, and they all have tour-booking desks. Some offer airport, bus or train station pick-ups with advance bookings, and most give YHA/VIP discounts.

City Centre

Melaleuca on MitchellHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1300 723 437; www.momdarwin.com.au; 52 Mitchell St; dm $32, d without/with bathroom $95/115; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

If you stay here take note: 24-hour check-in and it's plonked right in the action on Mitchell Street. So, sleeping...maybe not. Partying? Oh yes! The highlight is the rooftop island bar and pool area overlooking Mitchell St − complete with waterfall spa and big-screen TV. Party heaven! This modern hostel is immaculate with great facilities and it's very secure. The 3rd floor is female only.

Dingo Moon LodgeHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8941 3444; www.dingomoonlodge.com; 88 Mitchell St; incl breakfast dm $32-38, d & tw $105; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

Howl at the moon at the Dingo. This fun, laid-back hostel is slightly removed from the party scene, although everything is still at your doorstep. It's a two-building affair with 65 beds – big enough to be sociable but not rowdy. Cleanliness and service tend to fluctuate. A highlight is the pool, sparkling underneath a massive frangipani tree.

Chilli'sHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1800 351 313, 08-8980 5800; www.chillis.com.au; 69a Mitchell St; dm $34, tw & d without bathroom $100; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

Friendly Chilli's is a funky place with a small sun deck and spa (use the pool next door). There's also a pool table and a breezy kitchen/meals terrace overlooking Mitchell St. Rooms are compact but clean. There are nice touches to this place, such as pots with scented herbs hanging from the roof of the balcony.

Youth ShackHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1300 793 302; www.youthshack.com.au; 69 Mitchell St; dm $34, tw & d without bathroom $90; icon-swimgifs)

At one end of the Transit Centre, this popular hostel has a large open kitchen and meals area overlooking a pool big enough to actually swim in. The bar here is very popular and at times raucous. Rooms are a little tired but clean, and the staff are consistently praised for being friendly and helpful. The tour desk here has a great reputation.

Darwin Central HotelHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8944 9000, 1300 364 2631300 364 263; www.darwincentral.com.au; 21 Knuckey St; d from $180; icon-parkgifpicon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifsicon-petgif#; icon-busgifg4, 5, 8, 10)

Right in the centre of town, this plush independent hotel oozes contemporary style and impeccable facilities. There are a range of stylish rooms with excellent accessibility for disabled travellers. Rack rates are steep, but internet, weekend and three-night-stay discounts make it great value. The excellent breakfast caps things off nicely.

Value InnHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8981 4733; www.valueinn.com.au; 50 Mitchell St; d from $140; icon-parkgifpicon-acongifaicon-swimgifs)

A great option right in the thick of the Mitchell St action but (mostly) quiet and comfortable. Value Inn lives up to its name, especially out of season. En-suite rooms are small but sleep up to three and have fridge and TV.

Palms City ResortRESORT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1800 829 211, 08-8982 9200; http://palmscityresort.com; 64 The Esplanade; d motel/villas $230/280; icon-parkgifpicon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

Consistently receiving the thumbs up from travellers, this centrally located resort is fringed by palm-filled gardens. If you covet a microwave and have space cravings, the superior motel rooms are worth a bit extra, while the Asian-influenced, hexagonal villas with outdoor spas are utterly indulgent. Butterflies and dragonflies drift between bougainvillea in the knockout gardens.

Vibe HotelHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8982 9998; www.tfehotels.com/brands/vibe-hotels/vibe-hotel-darwin-waterfront; 7 Kitchener Dr; r $260-310; icon-parkgifpicon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

You're in for an upmarket stay at this professional set-up with friendly staff and a great location at the Darwin Waterfront Precinct. Room prices creep upwards with more bed space and water views. The Wave Lagoon is right next door if the shady swimming pool is too placid for you.

Elan Soho SuitesHOTEL, APARTMENTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8981 0888; www.elansohosuites.com; 31 Woods St; r $220, 1/2-bed apt $270/310; icon-parkgifpicon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

This innovative newcomer was still in the midst of major renovations when we dropped in, but had just started to accept guests. Room prices (at least initially, while the place gets established) promise to be great value. Views are stunning, facilities first-rate; you can even check-in online, and unlock your room door via your mobile phone. Its restaurant 'Seoul Food' brings Korean cooking to Darwin.

Novotel AtriumHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8941 0755; www.novotel.com; 100 The Esplanade; d from $350, 2-bedroom apt from $470; icon-parkgifpicon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

Yes, it's a chain hotel, but this one, with to-die-for ocean views, stands out from the crowd. Stylistic standards are above the norm: subtle lighting, fresh flowers and interesting Indigenous art. Breathe the sea air on your balcony or descend into the kidney-shaped swimming pool, one of the best-looking puddles in Darwin. Breakfasts are a highlight.

City Fringe & Suburbs

Discovery Holiday Park – DarwinCARAVAN PARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1800 662 253, 08-8984 3330; www.discoveryholidayparks.com.au/nt/darwin/darwin; cnr Farrell Cres & Stuart Hwy, Winnellie; campsites $34, cabins $104-184; icon-acongifaicon-swimgifs)

Well-treed caravan park with immaculate facilities, a camp kitchen, a licensed shop, a covered outdoor saltwater pool and friendly staff. Public bus 8 rolls into downtown Darwin from the corner of the street.

FreeSpirit Resort DarwinCARAVAN PARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8935 0888; www.darwinfreespiritresort.com.au; 901 Stuart Hwy, Berrimah; camp sites $50, cabins & units $140-300; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

An impressive highway-side park about a 10-minute drive from the city, with loads of facilities (including three pools). With a jumping cushion, a kidz corner, a bar and live music in the Dry, adults and kids are easily entertained.

Vitina Studio MotelMOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8981 1544; www.vitinastudiomotel.com.au; 38 Gardens Rd; d/ste $175/250; icon-parkgifpicon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

We like this place: value-for-money rooms, friendly and efficient service, and a convenient Darwin location. It's a deal. Contemporary motel rooms and larger studios with kitchenettes are on offer. It's right on the city fringe, convenient to the Gardens Park golf course, the Botanic Gardens and Mindil Beach. Keep an eye on its website for discounts.

Steeles at LarrakeyahB&B

(Darwin City B&B; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8941 3636; www.darwinbnb.com.au; 4 Zealandia Cres, Larrakeyah; d from $225, 1 & 2-bedroom apts $285-410; icon-acongifaicon-swimgifs)

Some B&Bs are businesslike and others feel like you're staying with friends; Steeles is one of the latter. There are three rooms in this pleasant Spanish Mission–style home, equipped with fridges, flat-screen TVs and private entrances. The owners also run apartments nearby which have excellent facilities and Indigenous art adorning the walls.

Cullen Bay ResortsAPARTMENTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1800 625 533, 08-8981 7999; www.cullenbayresortsdarwin.com.au; 26-32 Marina Blvd; 1-bed apt with standard/sea views$310/330; icon-parkgifpicon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

This pair of twin apartment towers boasts a million-dollar outlook over Cullen Bay marina and harbour. It's worth shelling out extra for the water views. There are restaurants a short stroll away, as is the ferry to Mandorah. You should get at least 10% off these rates if it's not busy.

5Eating

Darwin is the glistening pearl in the NT's dining scene. Eateries make the most of the tropical ambience with alfresco seating, and the quality and diversity of produce top anywhere else in the NT.

City Centre

There are two large supermarkets in downtown Darwin: Coles ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 55-59 Mitchell St, Mitchell Centre; icon-hoursgifh24hr) and Woolworths. ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Cavenagh & Whitfield Sts; icon-hoursgifh6am-10pm)

Roma BarCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%8981 6729; www.romabar.com.au; 9-11 Cavenagh St; mains $8-15; icon-hoursgifh7am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2pm Sat, 8am-1pm Sun; icon-wifigifW)

Roma is a local institution and the most reliable place for quality coffee in Darwin. It's a meeting place for lefties, literati and travellers. It's well away from the craziness of Mitchell St, with free wi-fi and fresh juices, and you can get anything from muesli and eggs Benedict for breakfast to excellent toasted focaccia and even fish curry for lunch.

Stokes Hill WharfSEAFOOD, FAST FOOD

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Stokes Hill Wharf; mains $10-20; icon-hoursgifhfrom 11am)

Squatting on the end of Stokes Hill Wharf is a hectic food centre with a dozen food counters and outdoor tables lined up along the pier. It's a pumping place for some fish and chips, oysters, a stir-fry, a laksa or just a cold sunset beer.

CrustaceansSEAFOOD

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8981 8658; www.crustaceans.net.au; Stokes Hill Wharf; mains $18-40; icon-hoursgifhfrom 5.30pm; icon-familygifc)

This casual, licensed restaurant features fresh fish, bugs, lobster, oysters, even crocodile, as well as succulent steaks. It's all about the location, perched right at the end of Stokes Hill Wharf with sunset views over Francis Bay. The cold beer and a first-rate wine list seal the deal.

Hot TamaleMEXICAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8981 5471; www.hottamale.net.au; Building 3, 19 Kitchener Dr; mains $20-25; icon-hoursgifhnoon-9pm)

With drink specials aplenty and a fun, laid-back attitude, this place is recommended as much for the atmosphere and brilliant waterfront location as for the delicious Mexican food. There are tacos, burritos and nachos galore.

CurveCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8982 9709; 7 Kitchener Dr; mains $22-35; icon-hoursgifh6am-9pm; icon-familygifc)

Spacious and clean inside and with comfy seating out the front to catch the breeze, this all-rounder is good for a bite any time of the day. Lunch is a good deal: a burger or panini with a beer or glass of wine is $18. In the evening tuck into pan-seared Cajun tuna.

It's opposite the wave lagoon – handy for families needing extra shade or something to fuel up on.

Moorish CaféMIDDLE EASTERN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8981 0010; www.moorishcafe.com.au; 37 Knuckey St; tapas $7-11, mains $33; icon-hoursgifh9am-2.30pm & 6-10pm Tue-Fri, 9am-10pm Sat)

Seductive aromas emanate from this divine terracotta-tiled cafe fusing North African, Mediterranean and Middle Eastern delights. The tapas can be a bit hit-and-miss but dishes such as the pork belly with chilli-chocolate sauce and Berber spiced kangaroo are tasty and reliable. It's a lovely dining experience, especially with a table overlooking the street.

HanumanINDIAN, THAI

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8941 3500; www.hanuman.com.au; 93 Mitchell St; mains $19-38; icon-hoursgifhnoon-2.30pm, dinner from 6pm; icon-veggifv)

Ask most locals about fine dining in Darwin and they'll usually mention Hanuman. It's sophisticated but not stuffy. Enticing aromas of innovative Indian and Thai Nonya dishes waft from the kitchen to the stylish open dining room and deck. The menu is broad, with exotic vegetarian choices and banquets also available.

Char RestaurantSTEAK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8981 4544; www.charrestaurant.com.au; cnr The Esplanade & Knuckey St; mains $30-60; icon-hoursgifhnoon-3pm Wed-Fri, 6-11pm daily )

Housed in the grounds of the historic Admiralty House is Char, a carnivore's paradise. The speciality here is chargrilled steaks − aged, grain-fed and cooked to perfection − but there's also a range of clever seafood creations such as banana prawn and crab tian, with avocado purée and tobiko caviar.

City Fringe & Suburbs

Laneway Speciality CoffeeCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8941 4511; 4/1 Vickers St, Parap; mains $12-18; icon-hoursgifh8am-3pm Mon-Sat)

The pared-back, industrial interior, corner location and powerhouse coffee here have locals wondering if they could be in Melbourne. Getting rave reviews, this place is fast becoming popular. Its well-prepared dishes use local and organic ingredients; the almost artistic bacon and egg roll is worth the trip here alone. For lunch the Wagyu beef burger beckons.

Cyclone CafeCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.parapvillage.com.au; 8 Urquhart St, Parap; meals $12-18; icon-hoursgifh7.30am-3pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-noon Sat)

Cyclone's decor is all rusty corrugated iron, although it's surprisingly cosy inside, with local art on the walls, upbeat staff and strong, aromatic coffee (try the triple-shot 'Hypercino'). The menu is diverse, offering breakfast goodies such as Middle Eastern eggs, spinach, feta, lemon rind and dukkah on a muffin. Yummy. Lunch is salads, burgers and melts.

Eva's CafeCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; George Brown Botanic Gardens; mains $8-14; icon-hoursgifh7am-3pm)

Brought to Darwin by ship in 1897, this lovely old Methodist church building provides an atmospheric respite in Darwin's botanic gardens. The large outdoor areas, including shaded deck in the rear, means it's favoured by parents and kids. Breakfast is short and sweet – think muesli and toasties – while sandwiches and salads feature at lunchtime.

icon-top-choiceoExotic North Indian CuisineINDIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8941 3396; www.exoticnorthindiancuisine.com.au; Cullen Bay Marina; mains $15-20; icon-hoursgifhfrom 5pm; icon-familygifc)

Offering outstanding value for quality Indian cuisine, this place has taken over the mantle of Darwin's best Indian restaurant. It's positioned right on the waterfront at Cullen Bay, making for extremely pleasant waterside dining in the evening. The service is attentive, there are high chairs for young 'uns and, unusually for Darwin, you can BYO wine.

icon-top-choiceoDarwin Ski ClubMODERN AUSTRALIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%080-8981 6630; www.darwinskiclub.com.au; Conacher St, Fannie Bay; mains $18-24; icon-hoursgifh1-9pm)

This place just keeps getting better. Already Darwin's finest location for a sunset beer, it now does seriously good tucker too. The dishes are well prepared, and the menu is thoughtful and enticing. We had the pork belly and were astonished with the quality of the dish, while the chorizo and barramundi linguine also gets the thumbs up. Highly recommended by locals.

Cornucopia CafeCAFE

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8941-9009; Bullocky Point, Conacher St, Fannie Bay; mains $20-30; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Sat & 5.30-8.30pm Wed-Sat)

Appended to the museum and gallery, this cafe makes for a good stop while you're in the 'hood. The outdoor eating area is breezy and scenic, overlooking the water. The menu is varied and has great salads including Thai grilled beef or octopus. For something more filling, local barra and wagyu rump round out the options.

Eat a PizzaPIZZA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8941 0963; 1/57 Marina Blvd, Cullen Bay; large pizzas $22, pasta $18; icon-hoursgifh5-10pm Tue-Sun)

A long-time family-owned business just across the road from the waterfront at Cullen Bay. The large, shaded, outdoor dining area is often buzzing with contented diners tucking into scrumptious homemade pizza and pasta dishes.

Pavonia PlaceMODERN AUSTRALIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8948 1515; www.pavoniaplace.com.au; 2 Pavonia Place, Nightcliff; mains $26-36; icon-hoursgifh5.30pm-late Tue-Sat)

A hidden gem in the backstreets of Nightcliff. Pavonia has a great take on modern Australian fusion cuisine: the oven-baked eggplant filled with broccoli, creamy goat's cheese, garlic cloves, mushroom and cherry tomatoes goes down a treat. It uses fresh local ingredients and the dining area is spacious but also intimate.

Pee Wee's at the PointMODERN AUSTRALIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8981 6868; www.peewees.com.au; Alec Fong Lim Drive, East Point Reserve; mains $40-50; icon-hoursgifhfrom 6.30pm)

With lobster tail kicking in at $70 a serve, this is indeed a place for a treat. One of Darwin's finest restaurants, it is well worth shelling out for the experience. Enjoy your lemongrass, ginger and duck-stock-braised pork belly among tropical palms at East Point Reserve, right on the waterfront.

6Drinking & Nighlife

Drinking is big business in tropical Darwin (cold beer and humidity have a symbiotic relationship), and the city has dozens of pubs and terrace bars that make the most of balmy evenings. Virtually all bars double as restaurants, especially along Mitchell St − a frenzied row of booze rooms full of travellers, all within stumbling distance of one another.

icon-top-choiceoDarwin Ski ClubPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%080-8981 6630; www.darwinskiclub.com.au; Conacher St, Fannie Bay)

Leave Mitchell St behind and head for a sublime sunset at this laid-back water-ski club on Vestey's Beach. The view through the palm trees from the beer garden is a winner, and there are often live bands. Hands down best venue for a sunset beer in Darwin.

BogartsBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8981 3561; 52 Gregory St, Parap; icon-hoursgifh4pm-late Tue-Sat)

Bogarts is one of Darwin's best bars and well worth the trek out into the suburbs. The decor is old movie posters, cane furniture and animal-print lounges in a mishmash that, strangely enough, works beautifully. It has a low-key ambience and is a local favourite for the over-30s crowd.

Tap on MitchellBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.thetap.com.au; 51 Mitchell St)

One of the busiest and best of the Mitchell St terrace bars, the Tap is always buzzing and there are inexpensive meals (nachos, burgers, calamari) to complement a great range of beer and wine.

Beachfront HotelPUB

(icon-phonegif%08-8985 3000; 342 Casuarina Dr, Rapid Creek)

Close to the border of Nightcliff is this rollicking pub opposite the foreshore. It attracts a local crowd and often has bands. A spot out on the breezy front deck with a cold drink is ideal.

Deck BarBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.thedeckbar.com.au; 22 Mitchell St)

At the nonpartying parliamentary end of Mitchell St, the Deck Bar still manages to get lively with happy hours, pub trivia and regular live music. Blurring the line between indoors and outdoors brilliantly, the namesake deck is perfect for people-watching.

Discovery & Lost ArcCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.discoverydarwin.com.au; 89 Mitchell St)

Discovery is Darwin's biggest nightclub and dance venue, with three levels featuring hip hop, techno and house, bars, private booths, karaoke, an elevated dance floor and plenty of partygoers. The Lost Arc is the classy chill-out bar opening on to Mitchell St, which starts to thaw after about 10pm.

3Entertainment

Darwin's balmy nights invite a bit of late-night exploration, and while there is only a handful of nightclubs, you'll find something on every night of the week. There's also a thriving arts and entertainment scene: theatre, film and concerts.

Off the Leash (www.offtheleash.net.au) magazine lists events happening around town, as does Darwin Community Arts (www.darwincommunityarts.org.au). Keep an eye out for bills posted on noticeboards and telegraph poles that advertise dance and full-moon parties.

Just about every pub/bar in town puts on some form of live music, mostly on Friday and Saturday nights, and sometimes filling the midweek void with karaoke and DJs.

ThrobCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 64 Smith St; icon-hoursgifh11pm-4am Fri & Sat)

Darwin's premier gay- and lesbian-friendly nightclub and cocktail bar, Throb attracts partygoers of all genders and persuasions for its hot DJs and cool atmosphere. Hosts drag shows and touring live acts. Don't miss the Batman & Throbbin' show on Friday.

icon-top-choiceoDeckchair CinemaCINEMA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8981 0700; www.deckchaircinema.com; Jervois Rd, Waterfront Precinct; adult/child $16/8; icon-hoursgifhbox office from 6.30pm Apr-Nov)

During the Dry, the Darwin Film Society runs this fabulous outdoor cinema below the southern end of the Esplanade. Watch a movie under the stars while reclining in a deckchair. There's a licensed bar serving food or you can bring a picnic (no BYO alcohol). There are usually double features on Friday and Saturday nights (adult/child $24/12).

Birch Carroll & CoyleCINEMA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8981 5999; www.eventcinemas.com.au; 76 Mitchell St; adult/child $19/14.50)

Darwin's mainstream cinema complex, screening latest-release films across five theatres. Head down on Tropical Tuesday for $12.50 entry (all day).

Darwin Entertainment CentreARTS CENTRE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8980 3333; www.darwinentertainment.com.au; 93 Mitchell St; icon-hoursgifhbox office 10am-5.30pm Mon-Fri & 1hr prior to shows)

Darwin's main community arts venue houses the Playhouse and Studio Theatres, and hosts events from fashion-award nights to plays, rock operas, comedies and concerts. Check the website for upcoming shows.

Brown's MartARTS CENTRE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8981 5522; www.brownsmart.com.au; 12 Smith St)

This historic venue (a former mining exchange) features live theatre performances, music and short films.

Happy YessLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; happyyess.tumblr.com; 12 Smith St, Browns Mart)

This venue is Darwin's leading place for live music. It's run by musicians so you won't hear cover bands in here. Original, sometimes weird, always fun.

Darwin Railway ClubLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8981 4171; www.darwinrailwayclub.com; 17 Somerville Gardens, Parap)

Big supporters of Darwin's live-music scene, this place pulls in some class acts.

DARWIN'S MAGICAL MARKETS

Mindil Beach Sunset MarketMARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.mindil.com.au; off Gilruth Ave; icon-hoursgifh5-10pm Thu & 4-9pm Sun May-Oct)

Food is the main attraction here − from Thai, Sri Lankan, Indian, Chinese and Malaysian to Brazilian, Greek, Portuguese and more − all at around $6 to $12 a serve. But that's only half the fun – arts and crafts stalls bulge with handmade jewellery, fabulous rainbow tie-dyed clothes, Aboriginal artefacts, and wares from Indonesia and Thailand. Mindil Beach is about 2km from Darwin's city centre; an easy walk or hop on buses 4 or 6 which go past the market area.

As the sun heads towards the horizon, half of Darwin descends on the market, with tables, chairs, rugs, grog and kids in tow. Peruse and promenade, stop for a pummelling massage or to listen to rhythmic live music. Don't miss a flaming satay stick from Bobby's brazier. Top it off with fresh fruit salad, decadent cakes or luscious crêpes.

Similar stalls (you'll recognise many of the stallholders) can be found at various suburban markets from Friday to Sunday.

Parap Village MarketMARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.parapvillage.com.au; Parap Shopping Village, Parap Rd, Parap; icon-hoursgifh8am-2pm Sat)

This compact, crowded food-focused market is a local favourite. There's the full gamut of Southeast Asian cuisine, as well as plenty of ingredients to cook up your own tropical storm.

Rapid Creek MarketMARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.rapidcreekshoppingcentre.com.au; 48 Trower Rd, Rapid Creek; icon-hoursgifh6.30am-1.30pm Sun)

Darwin's oldest market is an Asian marketplace, with a tremendous range of tropical fruit and vegetables mingled with a heady mixture of spices and swirling satay smoke.

Nightcliff MarketMARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.nightcliffmarkets.com.au; Pavonia Way, Nightcliff; icon-hoursgifh6am-2pm Sun)

A popular community market north of the city in the Nightcliff Shopping Centre. You'll will find lots of secondhand goods and designer clothing.

7Shopping

You don't have to walk far along the Smith St Mall to find a souvenir shop selling lousy NT souvenirs: tea towels, T-shirts, stubbie holders and cane-toad coin purses (most of it made in China). Also in oversupply are outlets selling Aboriginal arts and crafts (be informed about reliable operators). Darwin's fabulous markets sell unique handcrafted items such as seed-pod hats, shell jewellery, kites, clothing and original photos.

NT General StoreOUTDOOR EQUIPMENT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8981 8242; www.thentgeneralstore.com.au; 42 Cavenagh St; icon-hoursgifh8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Wed, to 6pm Thu & Fri, to 1pm Sat)

This casual, corrugated-iron warehouse has shelves piled high with camping and bushwalking gear, as well as a range of maps.

Aboriginal Fine Arts GalleryARTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.aaia.com.au; 1st fl, cnr Mitchell & Knuckey Sts; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm)

Displays and sells art from Arnhem Land and the central desert region.

Mbantua Fine Art GalleryARTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8941 6611; www.mbantua.com.au; 2/30 Smith St Mall; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Sat)

Vivid Utopian designs painted on everything from canvases to ceramics.

Tiwi Art NetworkARTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8941 3593; www.tiwiart.com; 3/3 Vickers St, Parap; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm Wed-Fri, to 2pm Sat)icon-sustainableS

The office and showroom for three arts communities on the Tiwi Islands.

BUYING ABORIGINAL ART

Taking home a piece of Aboriginal art can create an enduring connection with Australia. For Aboriginal artists, painting is an important cultural and economic enterprise. To ensure you're not perpetuating non-Indigenous cash-in on Aboriginal art's popularity, avoid buying cheap imported fridge magnets, stubbie holders, boomerangs or didgeridoos. Make sure you're buying from an authentic dealer selling original art, and if the gallery doesn't pay their artists upfront, ask exactly how much of your money will make it back to the artist or community.

A good test is to request some biographical info on the artists – if the vendor can't produce it, keep walking. An authentic piece will come with a certificate indicating the artist's name, language group and community, and the work's title, its story and when it was made.

You may also check that the selling gallery is associated with a regulatory body, such as the Australian Commercial Galleries Association (www.acga.com.au). Where possible, buy direct from Aboriginal arts centres or their city outlets (see www.ankaaa.org.au or www.aboriginalart.org); this is generally cheaper and ensures authenticity. You also get to view the works in the context in which they were created.

8Information

Emergency

AANT Roadside AssistanceROADSIDE ASSISTANCE

(icon-phonegif%13 11 11; www.aant.com.au)

Roadside assistance.

AmbulanceAMBULANCE

(icon-phonegif%000)

For emergencies.

FireFIRE BRIGADE

(icon-phonegif%000; www.nt.gov.au/pfes)

For local fire services.

Poisons Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

(icon-phonegif%13 11 26; icon-hoursgifh24hr)

Advice on poisons, bites and stings.

PolicePOLICE

(icon-phonegif%000; www.nt.gov.au/pfes)

For local police service.

Internet Access

Most accommodation in Darwin provides some form of internet access, and there is free wi-fi available in Smith Street Mall.

Northern Territory LibraryINTERNET

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1800 019 155; www.ntl.nt.gov.au; Mitchell St, Parliament House; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 1-5pm Sat & Sun; icon-wifigifW)

Book in advance for free access. Wi-fi also available.

Medical Services

Royal Darwin HospitalHOSPITAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8920 6011; www.health.nt.gov.au; Rocklands Dr, Tiwi; icon-hoursgifh24hr)

Accident and emergency.

Money

There are 24-hour ATMs dotted around the city centre, and exchange bureaux on Mitchell St.

Post

General Post OfficePOST OFFICE

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%13 13 18; www.auspost.com.au; 48 Cavenagh St; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 12.30pm Sat)

Efficient poste restante.

Tourist Information

Tourism Top EndTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1300 138 886, 08-8980 6000; www.tourismtopend.com.au; cnr Smith & Bennett Sts, Darwin, NT; icon-hoursgifh8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat & Sun)

Helpful office with hundreds of brochures; books tours and accommodation.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Apart from the following major carriers arriving at Darwin International Airport, smaller routes are flown by local operators; ask a travel agent.

AirnorthAIRLINE

(icon-phonegif%1800 627 474; www.airnorth.com.au)

To/from East Timor, Broome, Perth, Kununurra and the Gold Coast.

JetstarAIRLINE

(www.jetstar.com)

Direct flights to the eastern coast capitals and major hubs, as well as several Southeast Asian cities.

QantasAIRLINE

(www.qantas.com.au)

Direct flights to Perth, Adelaide, Canberra, Sydney, Brisbane, Alice Springs and Cairns.

Virgin AustraliaAIRLINE

(www.virginaustralia.com)

Direct flights between Darwin and Brisbane, Broome, Melbourne, Sydney and Perth.

Bus

Greyhound Australia ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.greyhound.com.au) operates long-distance bus services from the Transit Centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.enjoy-darwin.com/transit-bus.html; 69 Mitchell St). There's at least one service per day up and down the Stuart Hwy, stopping at Pine Creek (three hours), Katherine (4½ hours), Mataranka (seven hours), Tennant Creek (14½ hours) and Alice Springs (22 hours).

For Kakadu, there's a daily return service from Darwin to Jabiru ($66, 3½ hours).

Backpacker buses can also get you to out-of-the-way places.

Adventure ToursTOURS

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1300 654 604; www.adventuretours.com.au; 52 Mitchell St)

Has a good reputation.

Oz ExperienceTOURS

(www.ozexperience.com)

Makes backpacking between Alice Springs and Darwin easy.

Car & Campervan

For driving around Darwin, conventional vehicles are cheap enough, but most companies offer only 100km per day free, which won't get you very far out of town. Rates start at around $40 per day for a small car with 100km per day.

There are also plenty of 4WD vehicles available in Darwin, but you usually have to book ahead and fees/deposits are higher than for 2WD vehicles. Larger companies offer one-way rentals plus better mileage deals for more-expensive vehicles. Campervans are a great option for touring around the NT, and you generally get unlimited kilometres even for short rentals. Prices start at around $60 a day for a basic camper or $100 to $120 for a three-berth hi-top camper, to $220-plus for the bigger mobile homes or 4WD bushcampers. Additional insurance cover or excess reduction costs extra.

Most rental companies are open every day and have agencies in the city centre. Avis, Budget, Hertz and Thrifty all have offices at the airport.

Britz AustraliaCAR RENTAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.britz.com.au; 17 Bombing Rd, Winnellie)

Britz is a reliable outfit with a big range of campervans and motorhomes, including 4WD bushcampers.

JJ's Car HireCAR RENTAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.jjscarhire.com.au; 7 Goyder Rd, Parap)

Good local operator.

Mighty Cars & CampervansCAR RENTAL

(www.mightycampers.com.au; 17 Bombing Rd, Winnellie)

At the same depot as Britz, this is a budget outfit with small campers and hi-tops at reasonable rates.

Travellers AutobarnCAR RENTAL

(www.travellers-autobarn.com.au; 13 Daly St)

Campervan specialist.

Train

The legendary Ghan train, operated by Great Southern Rail (www.gsr.com.au), runs weekly (twice weekly May to July) between Adelaide and Darwin via Alice Springs. The Darwin terminus is on Berrimah Rd, 15km/20 minutes from the city centre. A taxi fare into the centre is about $30, though there is a shuttle service to/from the Transit Centre.

8Getting Around

To/From the Airport

Darwin International Airport is 12km north of the city centre, and handles both international and domestic flights. Darwin Airport Shuttle (icon-phonegif%08-8981 5066; www.darwinairportshuttle.com.au) will pick up or drop off almost anywhere in the centre for $16. When leaving Darwin book a day before departure. A taxi fare into the centre is about $35.

Public Transport

Darwinbus ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.nt.gov.au/transport) runs a comprehensive bus network that departs from the Darwin Bus Terminus ( GOOGLE MAP ; Harry Chan Ave), opposite Brown's Mart.

A $3 adult ticket gives unlimited travel on the bus network for three hours (validate your ticket when you first get on). Daily ($7) and weekly ($20) travel cards are also available from bus interchanges, newsagencies and the visitor information centre. Bus 4 (to Fannie Bay, Nightcliff, Rapid Creek and Casuarina) and bus 6 (Fannie Bay, Parap and Stuart Park) are useful for getting to Aquascene, the Botanic Gardens, Mindil Beach, the Museum & Art Gallery, Fannie Bay Gaol Museum, East Point Reserve and the markets.

Scooter

Darwin Scooter HireBICYCLE RENTAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8941 2434; www.thescootershop.com.au; 9 Daly St)

Rents out mountain bikes/50cc scooters/motorbikes for $20/60/180 per day.

Taxi

Taxis wait along Knuckey St, diagonally opposite the north end of Smith St Mall, and are usually easy to flag down. Call Darwin Radio Taxis (icon-phonegif%13 10 08; www.131008.com).

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