Central Melbourne
Melbourne's city centre has everything from boutiques hidden in lanes to large shopping complexes such as QV, Emporium and Melbourne Central with major international brands.
oCraft Victoria ShopCRAFTS
(Craft Victoria; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-9650 7775; www.craft.org.au; 31 Flinders Lane; h11am-6pm Mon-Sat; jCity Circle, 70, 75)
This retail arm of Craft Victoria showcases the best of handmade crafts, mainly from local Victorian artists. Its range of jewellery, textiles, accessories, glass and ceramics bridges the art/craft divide and makes for some wonderful mementos of Melbourne. There are also a few galleries with changing exhibitions; admission is free.
SomewhereFASHION, ACCESSORIES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.someplace.com.au; Royal Arcade, 2/314 Little Collins St; h10am-6pm Mon-Thu & Sat, to 8pm Fri, 11am-5pm Sun; j86, 96)
Somewhere is an apt name for this hard-to-find treasure. It's located at the Little Collins St end of Royal Arcade (look for the Marais sign and take the stairs to level 2). The white-washed warehouse space stocks predominantly Scandinavian labels, as well as local designers, along with leather tote bags, Anne Black ceramic jewellery and a good range of denim.
IncuFASHION
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-9663 9933; www.incuclothing.com; shop 6a, 274 Flinders Lane; h10am-6pm Mon-Thu & Sat, to 8pm Fri, 11am-5pm Sun; dFlinders St)
Sydney retailer Incu has set up store in Melbourne and stocks a range of contemporary designers for menswear, with crisp tailored shirts from Weathered, comfy chinos and great stuff from labels such as Vanishing Elephant and Kloke. Its women's store is in the QV Building.
Captains of IndustryCLOTHING, ACCESSORIES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-9670 4405; www.captainsofindustry.com.au; level 1, 2 Somerset Pl; h9am-5pm; j19, 57, 59)
Where can you get a haircut, a bespoke suit and a pair of shoes or a leather wallet made in the one place? Here. The hard-working folk at spacious and industrial Captains also offer homey breakfasts and lunches, and it turns into a low-key bar on Friday nights.
City HattersACCESSORIES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-9614 3294; www.cityhatters.com.au; 211 Flinders St; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat, 10am-4pm Sun; dFlinders St)
Located beside the main entrance to Flinders St Station, this is the most convenient place to purchase an iconic Akubra hat, kangaroo-leather sun hat or something a little more unique.
WunderkammerANTIQUES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-9642 4694; www.wunderkammer.com.au; 439 Lonsdale St; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 4pm Sun; j55)
Surprises abound in this 'Wonder Chamber', the strangest of shops: taxidermy, bugs in jars, antique scientific tools, surgical equipment and carnivorous plants, to name a few.
RM WilliamsCLOTHING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-9663 7126; www.rmwilliams.com.au; Melbourne Central, Lonsdale St; h10am-6pm Mon-Thu & Sat, to 9pm Fri, to 5pm Sun)
An Aussie icon, even for city slickers, this brand will kit you up with stylish essentials for working the land, including a pair of those famous boots.
Original & Authentic Aboriginal ArtARTS, CRAFTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-9663 5133; www.originalandauthenticaboriginalart.com; 90 Bourke St; h11am-6pm; j86, 96)
Open for 25 years this centrally located gallery has a good relationship with its Indigenous artists across Australia and offers stunning and affordable pieces, all with author profiles.
Alice EuphemiaFASHION, JEWELLERY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; shop 6, Cathedral Arcade, 37 Swanston St; h10am-6pm Mon-Thu & Sat, to 7pm Fri, noon-5pm Sun; dFlinders St)
Art-school cheek abounds in the Australian-made-and-designed labels sold here – Romance was Born, Karla Spetic and Kloke, to name a few. Jewellery sways between the shocking and exquisitely pretty, and its upstairs space hosts regular events and exhibitions.
NGV Shop at the Ian Potter CentreBOOKS, GIFTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.ngv.vic.gov.au; Federation Sq; dFlinders St)
This gallery shop has a wide range of international design magazines, a kids' section and the usual gallery standards. Also at NGV International.
MelbournaliaGIFTS, SOUVENIRS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.melbournalia.com.au; shop 5, 50 Bourke St; h10am-6pm Mon-Thu, to 8pm Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun; j86, 96)
Pop-up store turned permanent, this is the place to stock up on interesting souvenirs by local designers – from tram tote bags and city-rooftop honey to prints of the city's icons and great books on Melbourne.
QUEEN VIC NIGHT MARKET
On Wednesday evenings from mid-November to the end of February the Summer Night Market takes over the Queen Victoria Market. It’s a lively social event featuring hawker-style food stalls, bars and music and dance performances. There's also a winter night market each Wednesday evening in August.
Fitzroy & Around
Gertrude St has become one of Melbourne's most interesting shopping strips. Smith St is decidedly vintage, with small boutique stores, though its northern end, beyond Johnston St, is jam-packed with clearance stores. Brunswick St is a mixed bag, but does have some good boutique designers from Johnston St to Gertrude St. Northcote’s High St has an interesting collection of homewares, vintage and young designer shops, too.
oThird Drawer DownHOMEWARES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.thirddrawerdown.com; 93 George St, Fitzroy; h11am-5pm Mon-Sat; j86)
It all started with its signature tea-towel designs (now found in MOMA in New York) at this 'museum of art souvenirs'. Third Drawer Down makes life beautifully unusual by stocking absurdist pieces with a sense of humour, as well as high-end art by well-known designers.
Mud AustraliaCERAMICS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-9419 5161; www.mudaustralia.com; 181 Gertrude St, Fitzroy; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat, noon-5pm Sun; j86)
You'll find some of the most aesthetically beautiful – as well as functional – porcelain from Australian-designed Mud. Coffee mugs, milk pourers, salad bowls and serving plates come in muted pastel colours with a raw matt finish. Prices start from $20 per piece.
CrumplerACCESSORIES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-9417 5338; www.crumpler.com; 87 Smith St, cnr Gertrude St, Fitzroy; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun; j86)
Crumpler’s bike-courier bags, designed by two former couriers looking for a bag they could hold their beer in while cycling home, started it all. Its durable, practical designs now extend to bags for cameras, laptops and iPods, and can be found around the world.
GormanCLOTHING, ACCESSORIES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.gormanshop.com.au; 235 Brunswick St, Fitzroy; h10am-6pm Mon-Thu & Sat, to 7pm Fri, 11am-5pm Sun; j112)
Lisa Gorman makes everyday clothes that are far from ordinary: boyish, but sexy, short shapes are cut from exquisite fabrics, and pretty cardigans are coupled with relaxed, organic tees. You can find other branches in the GPO ( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-9663 0066; www.melbournesgpo.com; cnr Elizabeth St & Bourke St Mall; h10am-6pm Mon-Thu & Sat, to 8pm Fri, 11am-5pm Sun; j19, 57, 59, 86, 96) and elsewhere around town.
Poison City RecordsMUSIC
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.poisoncityrecords.com; 400 Brunswick St, Fitzroy; h11am-6pm; j112)
Independent record/skate shop with its own Poison City label releasing excellent indie, punk and fuzz-rock Melbourne bands, such as the Nation Blue, White Walls and Smith Street Band.
AesopBEAUTY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-9419 8356; www.aesop.com; 242 Gertrude St, Fitzroy; h11am-5pm Mon & Sun, 10am-6pm Tue-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat; j86)
This home-grown empire specialises in citrus-and-botanical-based aromatic balms, hair masques, scents, cleansers and oils in beautifully simple packaging for both men and women. There are plenty of branches around town (and plenty of opportunity to sample the products in most of Melbourne's cafe bathrooms).
Shirt & Skirt MarketCLOTHING, CRAFTS
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.shirtandskirtmarkets.com.au; Abbotsford Convent, 1 St Heliers St, Abbotsford; h10am-4pm 3rd Sun of the month; dCollingwood)
Buy limited-run clothes and accessories, for both adults and kids, from emerging designers. The Convent makes for leisurely outdoor browsing. Check the website for regular stallholder details. To get here, head east down Johnson St, turn right at Clarke St, then left.
Little SalonCRAFT, FASHION
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.littlesalon.com.au; 71 Gertrude St, Fitzroy; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat; j86, 112)
Cute little store that stocks wearable art pieces from local designers, as well as decorative items for your wall or shelf.
MELBOURNE'S BEST MARKETS
Rose Street Artists' MarketMARKET
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.rosestmarket.com.au; 60 Rose St, Fitzroy; h11am-5pm Sat; j112)
One of Melbourne’s most popular art-and-craft markets showcases the best of local designers just a short stroll from Brunswick St. You’ll find up to 70 stalls selling matt silver jewellery, clothing, milk-bottle ceramics, iconic Melbourne screen prints, wild fig candles and ugly-cute toys. Humble Vintage has bike hire from here.
Esplanade MarketMARKET
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.esplanademarket.com; btwn Cavell & Fitzroy Sts, St Kilda; h10am-4pm Sun May-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Apr; j96)
Fancy a Sunday stroll shopping by the seaside? Well, here's the place, with 1km of trestle tables joined end to end carrying individually crafted products, from toys and organic soaps to large metal sculptures of fishy creatures.
Carlton & Around
ReadingsBOOKS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.readings.com.au; 309 Lygon St, Carlton; h8am-11pm Mon-Fri, 9am-11pm Sat, 9am-9pm Sun; gTourist Shuttle, j1, 8)
A potter around this defiantly prospering indie bookshop can occupy an entire afternoon if you’re so inclined. There’s a dangerously loaded (and good-value) specials table, switched-on staff and everyone from Lacan to Charlie & Lola on the shelves. Its exterior housemate-wanted board is legendary. Also in St Kilda ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-9525 3852; www.readings.com.au; 112 Acland St; j96) and the city centre ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; State Library, cnr La Trobe & Swanston Sts; dMelbourne Central).
GewürzhausFOOD
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.gewurzhaus.com.au; 342 Lygon St, Carlton; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun; j1, 8)
Set up by two enterprising young German girls, this store is a chef's dream with its displays of spices from around the world, including Indigenous Australian blends, flavoured salts and sugars. It has high-quality cooking accessories and gifts, and cooking classes, too. There's a city store inside the Block Arcade ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 282 Collins St; j19, 57, 59).
Eastern MarketCLOTHING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-9348 0890; www.easternmarket.com.au; 107 Grattan St, Carlton; h11am-6pm Mon-Sat; j1, 8, 16)
Fashion-maven territory with a deconstructed Euro-Tokyo edge. The space is itself an attraction: it’s a 19th-century chapel with the owner’s inimitable additions.
St Kilda
Dot HerbeyFASHION, ACCESSORIES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.dotandherbey.com; 229 Barkly St; h10.30am-6.30pm Mon-Wed, to7pm Thu & Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun; j96)
Grandma Dot and Grandpa Herb smile down upon this tiny corner boutique from a mural-sized photo, right at home among the vintage floral fabrics and retro style. This is definitely not somewhere to go if you’re looking for chain-store same-same – it’s also a colourful departure from the Melbourne-black dictate.
EclecticoCLOTHING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.eclectico.com.au; 163a Acland St; h10.30am-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun; j96)
Your one-stop shop for all your St Kilda hippy apparel, beanies, tie-dye shirts, Indian jewellery etc. Otherwise pop in for a free chai and hang out on the rooftop patio at this funky upstairs Acland St shop. It has a good Afrobeat vinyl collection, too.
BookhouseBOOKS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.bookhousestkilda.com.au; 52 Robe St; h10am-6pm Wed-Sun; j3, 67)
A much-loved local, Bookhouse recently relocated from Fitzroy St to this quiet backstreet shop, where you might find a quality copy of a Chomsky, Kerouac or beautiful coffee-table book on the shelves, as well as a great selection of Australiana and Melbourne-specific titles.
8Information
Dangers & Annoyances
There are occasional reports of alcohol-fuelled violence in some parts of Melbourne’s city centre late on weekend nights – King St in particular.
Emergency
For police, ambulance or fire emergencies, dial 000.
Centre Against Sexual AssaultMEDICAL
(CASA; %1800 806 292)
Translating & Interpreting ServiceTELEPHONE
(%13 14 50)
Available 24 hours.
Internet Access
Wi-fi is available free at central city spots such as Federation Sq, Flinders St Station, Crown Casino and the State Library. Most accommodation options have wi-fi and computer terminals, costing anything from nothing to $10 per hour.
Medical Services
Visitors from Belgium, Finland, Italy, Ireland, Malta, the Netherlands, Norway, New Zealand, Slovenia, Sweden and the UK have reciprocal health-care agreements with Australia and can access cheaper health services through Medicare (%13 20 11; www.humanservices.gov.au/customer/dhs/medicare).
Royal Children’s HospitalHOSPITAL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-9345 5522; www.rch.org.au; 50 Flemington Rd, Parkville)
Children’s hospital with 24-hour emergency department.
Royal Melbourne HospitalHOSPITAL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-9342 7000; www.rmh.mh.org.au; cnr Grattan St & Royal Pde, Parkville; j19, 59)
Public hospital with an emergency department.
Tambassis PharmacyMEDICAL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-9387 8830; cnr Brunswick & Sydney Rds, Brunswick; h8am-midnight; j19)
Travel DoctorMEDICAL
(TVMC; GOOGLE MAP ; %03-9935 8100; www.traveldoctor.com.au; level 2, 393 Little Bourke St; h9am-5pm Mon, Wed, Fri, to 8.30pm Tue & Thu, to 1pm Sat; j19, 57, 59)
Specialises in vaccinations and health advice for overseas trips. Also at Southgate ( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-9690 1433; 3 Southgate Ave, Southbank; h8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri).
Tourist Information
Melbourne Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(MVC; GOOGLE MAP ; %03-9658 9658; www.melbourne.vic.gov.au/touristinformation; Federation Sq; h9am-6pm; W; dFlinders St)
The centre has comprehensive tourist information on Melbourne and regional Victoria, including excellent resources for mobility-impaired travellers, and a travel desk for accommodation and tour bookings. There are power sockets for recharging phones, too. There's also a booth on the Bourke St Mall (mostly for shopping and basic enquiries).
MELBOURNE WEBSITES
Broadsheet Melbourne (www.broadsheet.com.au) Great source for reviews of the city's best eating, drinking and shopping spots.
That's Melbourne (www.thatsmelbourne.com.au) Downloadable maps, info and podcasts from the City of Melbourne.
Three Thousand (thethousands.com.au/melbourne) A weekly round-up of (cool) local goings on.
Visit Victoria (www.visitvictoria.com.au) Highlights events in Melbourne and Victoria.
Good Food (www.goodfood.com.au) Restaurant and foodie happenings around Melbourne.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Melbourne AirportAIRPORT
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.melbourneairport.com.au; Centre Rd, Tullamarine)
Most major airlines have direct domestic and international flights to Melbourne Airport in Tullamarine, 22km northwest of the city centre. Domestic and international flights are offered by, among others, Qantas, Jetstar, Virgin Australia and Tiger Airways. Qantaslink, a Qantas subsidiary, flies to Mildura, Launceston, Devonport and Canberra.
Regional Express has flights to/from Mildura, Mt Gambier, King Island and Burnie.
Avalon AirportAIRPORT
(AVV; %1800 282 566, 03-5227 9100; www.avalonairport.com.au)
Jetstar flights to and from Sydney and Brisbane use Avalon Airport, around 55km southwest of Melbourne's city centre.
Essendon AirportAIRPORT
(MEB; %03-9948 9300; www.essendonairport.com.au)
Smaller airport with Sharp Airlines (%1300 556 694; www.sharpairlines.com) services to Portland, Warrnambool and Flinders Island.
Boat
Spirit of TasmaniaFERRY
( GOOGLE MAP ; %1800 634 906; www.spiritoftasmania.com.au; adult/car one way from $159/83)
The Spirit of Tasmania crosses Bass Strait from Melbourne to Devonport, Tasmania, at least nightly. There are also day sailings during peak season. It takes 11 hours and departs from Station Pier, Port Melbourne.
Bus & Train
Southern Cross StationTRAIN STATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.southerncrossstation.net.au; cnr Collins & Spencer Sts)
The main terminal for interstate bus services.
FireflyBUS
( GOOGLE MAP ; %1300 730 740; www.fireflyexpress.com.au)
Day and overnight buses from Melbourne to Adelaide (from $55, 11 hours) and Sydney (from $60, 14 hours).
8Getting Around
To/From the Airport
Tullamarine Airport
Inconveniently, there are no direct train or tram routes from Tullamarine airport to the city. The only option by public transport is to take bus 901, departing Terminal 1, to Broadmeadows railway station (not the best place to hang out at night), from where you can catch the train to the city. It’ll cost around $10 (including myki card) and take around an hour. The last bus to/from from the airport is around 11pm.
The fare for a taxi to Melbourne’s city centre will start from $50 but can go as high as $75 after midnight once you factor in surcharges and tolls.
Drivers need to be aware that part of the main route into Melbourne from Tullamarine Airport is a toll road run by CityLink (%13 26 29; www.citylink.com.au). If you’re travelling on toll roads (including CityLink and EastLink) for less than 30 days, you'll need to buy a Melbourne Pass ($5.50 start-up fee, plus tolls and a vehicle-matching fee). If you have more time than money, take the exit ramp at Bell St, then turn right onto Nicholson St and follow it all the way south to the city centre.
SkyBusBUS
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-9335 2811; www.skybus.com.au; adult one way $18; dSouthern Cross Station)
Skybus runs a 24-hour shuttle between the city centre and the airport, with city hotel drop offs. Depending on traffic, it takes around 25 minutes.
Avalon Airport
Sita CoachesBUS
(%03-9689 7999; www.sitacoaches.com.au; adult/child $22/10)
Sita Coaches meets all flights into and out of Avalon. It departs from Southern Cross Station (50 minutes). No bookings are required.
Car & Motorcycle
Car Rental
Parking
Parking inspectors are particularly vigilant in the city centre. Most of the street parking is metered and it’s more likely than not that you'll be fined (between $72 to $144) if you overstay your metered time. Also keep an eye out for 'clearway' zones (prohibited kerb-side parking indicated by signs), which can result in sizeable fines. Central city parking is around $6 per hour, and $3.50 per hour in the outer central areas. There are plenty of parking garages in the city; rates vary. Motorcyclists are allowed to park on the footpath.
Toll Roads
Drivers and motorcyclists will need to purchase a toll pass if they’re planning on using one of the two toll roads: CityLink from Tullamarine Airport to the city and eastern suburbs; or EastLink (%13 54 65; www.eastlink.com.au), which runs from Ringwood to Frankston. Pay online or via phone – but pay within three days of using the toll road to avoid a fine.
FREE TRAMS
Changes to the public transport fare structure in 2015 mean that tram travel within Melbourne's city centre – between the Queen Victoria Market, Victoria Harbour in Docklands, Spring Street and Federation Square – is now free. No myki card is needed for journeys inside this area.
Public Transport
Flinders Street Station is the main metro train station connecting the city and suburbs. The City Loop runs under the city, linking the four corners of town.
An extensive network of trams covers every corner of the city, running north–south and east–west along most major roads. Trams run roughly every 10 minutes Monday to Friday, every 15 minutes on Saturday and every 20 minutes on Sunday. Tram travel is free within the city centre and Docklands area.
Bicycles cannot be taken on trams or buses, but can be taken on trains.
APublic Transport Victoria (PTV; www.ptv.vic.gov.au; 1800 800 007; hub Southern Cross Station; Mon-Fri 8am-6pm) Oversees the region’s public transport - check the website for details.
MYKI CARD
Melbourne’s buses, trams and trains use myki (www.myki.com.au), the controversial ‘touch on, touch off’ travel-pass system. It's not particularly convenient for short-term visitors, requiring you to purchase a $6 plastic myki card and then put credit on it before you travel. Cards can be purchased from machines at stations, 7-Eleven stores or newsagents, but some hostels also collect myki cards from travellers who leave Melbourne. Travellers are best advised to buy a myki Visitor Value Pack ($14), which gets you one day's travel and discounts on various sights. It's available only from the airport, Skybus terminal or the PTV Hub at Southern Cross Station.
The myki card can be topped up at 7-Eleven stores and myki machines at most train stations and some tram stops in the city centre. Frustratingly, online top-ups take at least 24 hours to process. For Zone 1, which is all that most travellers will need, the Myki Money costs $3.76 for two hours, or $7.52 for the day. Machines don't always issue change, so bring exact money. The fine for travelling without a valid myki card is $212 (or $75 if you pay on the spot) – ticket inspectors are vigilant and unforgiving.
Taxi
Melbourne’s taxis are metered and require an estimated prepaid fare when hailed between 10pm and 5am. You may need to pay more, or get a refund, depending on the final fare. Toll charges are added to fares.
Around Melbourne
Daylesford & Hepburn Springs
Pop 3265
Set among the scenic hills, lakes and forests of the Central Highlands, Daylesford and Hepburn Springs form the ‘spa centre of Victoria’. It's a fabulous year-round destination where you can soak away your troubles and sip wine by the fireplace. The region is one of Victoria’s favourite boutique weekend getaways – even if you don’t indulge in a spa treatment, there are plenty of great walks, well-preserved and restored buildings, a fabulous foodie scene and remnants of an arty, alternative vibe. During the week some businesses close, so it's best to visit Thursday to Sunday.
1Sights & Activities
Daylesford sits above pretty, artificial Lake Daylesford, a popular fishing and picnicking area. Jubilee Lake, about 3km southeast of town, is another pretty picnic spot with canoe hire. Good local walks incorporating various mineral-spring pumps include Sailors Falls, Tipperary Springs, Central Springs Reserve and the Hepburn Springs Reserve; take a water bottle with you to taste test the pump water. The visitor centre has maps and walking guides.
Convent GalleryGALLERY
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5348 3211; www.theconvent.com.au; 7 Daly St, Daylesford; admission $5; h10am-4pm)
This beautiful 19th-century convent on Wombat Hill has been brilliantly converted into an art gallery with soaring ceilings, grand archways and magnificent gardens. Head up the path in the gardens behind the convent for sweeping views over the town. There's also an atrium cafe, bar and penthouse apartment. It runs night ghost tours ($45, book ahead) for the brave.
oHepburn Bathhouse & SpaSPA
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5321 6000; www.hepburnbathhouse.com; Mineral Springs Reserve Rd, Hepburn Springs; 2hr bathhouse entry from $27; h9am-6.30pm)
Within the Hepburn Mineral Springs Reserve, the main bathhouse is a sleek, ultramodern building where you can gaze out on the bush setting while soaking in the public pool or lazing on spa couches. The spa offers various treatments, or a soak in a private mineral-springs pool in the original historic building.
Around the bathhouse are picnic areas, mineral-spring pumps and the historic Pavilion cafe.
zFestivals & Events
ChillOut FestivalGAY & LESBIAN
Held over the Labour Day weekend in March, this gay and lesbian pride festival is Daylesford’s biggest annual event, attracting thousands of people for street parades, music and dance parties.
Swiss Italian FestaCULTURAL
Held in late October, this festival draws on the region’s European roots with literary events, music, food, wine and art.
4Sleeping & Eating
Daylesford
2 DukesGUESTHOUSE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5348 4848; 2 Duke St, Daylesford; r from $99; W)
Flying the flag for affordable accommodation in Daylesford, this former doctor's surgery turned guesthouse is kitted out with vintage finds and original bright artworks. The five rooms each have their own personality and share a bathroom (one room has en suite). Light breakfast is included and there's free wi-fi rounding out the best offer in town.
Lake HouseBOUTIQUE HOTEL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5348 3329; www.lakehouse.com.au; King St, Daylesford; d incl half-board from $550; aW)
Overlooking Lake Daylesford, the famous Lake House is set in rambling gardens with bridges and waterfalls. Its 35 rooms are split into spacious waterfront rooms with balcony decks, and lodge rooms with private courtyards. Rates include breakfast and three-course dinner at its famed restaurant. Two-night minimum stay on weekends.
Farmers ArmsPUB FOOD
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5348 2091; www.thefarmersarms.com.au; 1 East St, Daylesford; mains $25-40; hnoon-3pm & 6pm-late)
Modern and rustic – both the surroundings and the food – meld tastefully in this classic country red-brick gastropub. There's a welcoming front bar and a beer garden for summer days.
oLake HouseMODERN AUSTRALIAN
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5348 3329; www.lakehouse.com.au; King St, Daylesford; 2-4 course meals from $80; hnoon-2.30pm & 6-9.30pm; W)
You can’t talk about Daylesford without waxing on about the Lake House, long regarded as the town’s top dining experience. It doesn’t disappoint with stylish purple high-back furniture, picture windows showing off Lake Daylesford, a superb seasonal menu, an award-winning wine list and impressive service. Book well ahead for weekends.
DAYLESFORD ACCOMMODATION BOOKING
Daylesford Accommodation EscapesACCOMMODATION SERVICES
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5348 1448; www.dabs.com.au; 94 Vincent St, Daylesford)
Daylesford GetawaysACCOMMODATION SERVICES
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5348 4422; www.dayget.com.au; 14 Vincent St, Daylesford)
Daylesford Cottage DirectoryACCOMMODATION SERVICES
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5348 1255; www.cottagedirectory.com.au; 16 Hepburn Rd, Daylesford)
Hepburn Springs
oHepburn Springs ChaletHOTEL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5348 2344; www.hepburnspringschalet.com.au; 78 Main Rd, Hepburn Springs; r midweek/weekend $120/180; W)
If Don Draper was in town, this is where he'd drop his briefcase. Originally a 1920s guesthouse, the owners have retained the original features, complementing them with retro charm such as deco mirrors and velvet lounges in the sitting areas and bar. Rooms are basic, but comfortable, and come with en suites.
Shizuka RyokanGUESTHOUSE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5348 2030; www.shizuka.com.au; 7 Lakeside Dr, Hepburn Springs; d $280-380)
Inspired by traditional places of renewal and rejuvenation in Japan, this traditional minimalist getaway has six rooms with private Japanese gardens, tatami matting and plenty of green tea. Not suitable for children.
Red Star CaféCAFE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5348 2297; 115 Main Rd, Hepburn Springs; mains $8-26; h8am-4pm)
The weatherboard shopfront feels like someone’s home, with loungy couches, bookshelves full of reading material, great music, a garden out the back and a funky local vibe. Great place for a morning coffee or lunch of focaccia, curry or steak sandwich.
8Information
Daylesford Visitors CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %1800 454 891, 03-5321 6123; www.visitdaylesford.com; 98 Vincent St, Daylesford; h9am-5pm)
Within the old fire station, this excellent tourist centre has good information on the area and mineral springs. There's a history museum ( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5348 1453; www.daylesfordhistory.com.au; 100 Vincent St, Daylesford; adult/child $3/1; h1.30-4.30pm Sat & Sun) next door.
8Getting There & Away
Daylesford is 115km from Melbourne, a 1½-hour drive via the Calder Hwy; take the Woodend turn off, from where it's a 35-minute drive.
Local buses operate the 3km journey between Daylesford (from Bridport St) and Hepburn Springs; it's a 15-minute journey.
V/LineTRAIN, BUS
( GOOGLE MAP ; %1800 800 007; www.vline.com.au)
Daily V/Line services connect Melbourne by train to Woodend, Ballarat or Castlemaine then bus to Daylesford ($11.40, two hours). The buses run from Bridport St, opposite the fire station.
BLACK SATURDAY
Victoria is no stranger to bushfires. In 1939, 71 people died in the Black Friday fires; in 1983 Ash Wednesday claimed 75 lives in Victoria and South Australia. But no one was prepared for the utter devastation of the 2009 bushfires that became known as Black Saturday.
On 7 February, Victoria recorded its hottest temperature on record, with Melbourne exceeding 46°C and some parts of the state topping 48°C. Strong winds and tinder-dry undergrowth from years of drought, combined with the record-high temperatures, created conditions in which the risk of bushfires was extreme. The first recorded fires began near Kilmore and strong winds from a southerly change fanned the flames towards the Yarra Ranges. Within a few devastating hours a ferocious firestorm engulfed the towns of Marysville, Kinglake, Strathewen, Flowerdale and Narbethong, while separate fires started at Horsham, Bendigo and an area southeast of Beechworth. The fires virtually razed the towns of Marysville and Kinglake and moved so quickly that many residents had no chance to escape. Many victims of the fires died in their homes or trapped in their cars, some blocked by trees that had fallen across the road.
Fires raged across the state for more than a month, with high temperatures, winds and practically no rainfall making it impossible for fire crews to contain the worst blazes. New fires began at Wilson’s Promontory National Park (burning more than 50% of the park area), the Dandenong Ranges and in the Daylesford area.
The statistics tell a tragic tale: 173 people died, more than 2000 homes were destroyed, an estimated 7500 people were left homeless and more than 4500 sq km were burned. What followed from the shell-shocked state and nation was a huge outpouring of grief, humanitarian aid and charity. Strangers donated tonnes of clothing, toys, food, caravans and even houses to bushfire survivors, while an appeal set up by the Australian Red Cross raised more than $300 million.
Today the blackened forests around Kinglake and Marysville are regenerating, and the communities are rebuilding. Tourism remains a big part of the economy, and visiting the shops, cafes and hotels in the area continues to boost their recovery.
The Dandenongs
The low ranges of the verdant Dandenongs, just 35km from Melbourne, feel a world away from the city and make a fantastic day trip. Mt Dandenong (633m) is the tallest peak and the landscape is a patchwork of exotic and native flora with a lush understorey of tree ferns. Take care driving on the winding roads – apart from other traffic, you might see a lyrebird wandering across.
The consumption of tea and scones is de rigueur in the many cafes in the hills, or you can stop for lunch at some quality restaurants in towns such as Olinda, Sassafras and Emerald.
1Sights & Activities
Dandenong Ranges National ParkNATIONAL PARK
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.parkweb.vic.gov.au; dUpper Ferntree Gully, Belgrave)
This national park contains the four largest areas of remaining forest in the Dandenongs. The Ferntree Gully Area has several short walks, including the popular 1000 Steps ( GOOGLE MAP ) up to One Tree Hill Picnic Ground ( GOOGLE MAP ) (two hours return), part of the Kokoda Memorial Track, which commemorates Australian WWII servicemen who fought in New Guinea. Bring sturdy shoes as its steps get slippery.
Sherbrooke Forest, just north of Belgrave, has a towering cover of mountain ash trees and several walking trails. Grants Picnic Ground ( GOOGLE MAP ), at Kallista, attracts flocks of sulphur-crested cockatoos.
National Rhododendron GardensGARDENS
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-9751 1980; www.parkweb.vic.gov.au; Georgian Rd, Olinda; h10am-5pm)F
Giant eucalypts tower over shady lawns and brilliant flower beds at these gardens with over 15,000 rhododendrons and 12,000 azaleas. The best time to see the rhododendrons is September to November.
SkyHigh Mt DandenongVIEWPOINT
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-9751 0443; www.skyhighmtdandenong.com.au; 26 Observatory Rd, Mt Dandenong; vehicle entry $5; h9am-10pm Mon-Thu, to 10.30pm Fri, 8am-11pm Sat & Sun; g688)
Drive up to SkyHigh for amazing views over Melbourne and Port Phillip Bay from the highest point in the Dandenongs. The view of the city lights at dusk is spectacular. There’s a cafe-restaurant, a garden, picnic areas and a maze (adult/child/family $6/4/16).
Puffing BillyTRAIN
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-9757 0700; www.puffingbilly.com.au; Old Monbulk Rd, Belgrave; return adult/child/family $65/32.50/131; dBelgrave)
Holding fond childhood memories for many a Melburnian, Puffing Billy is an iconic restored steam train that toots its way through the ferny hills from Belgrave to Emerald Lake Park and Gembrook. Kids love dangling their legs out the sides of the open-air compartments. You can hop on and hop off en route to enjoy a picnic or walk.
Puffing Billy train station is a short walk from Belgrave train station on Melbourne’s suburban network.
Trees AdventureADVENTURE SPORTS
( GOOGLE MAP ; %09752 5354; www.treesadventure.com.au; Old Monbulk Rd, Glen Harrow Gardens; 2hr session adult/child $40/25; h11am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat & Sun; dBelgrave)
Reminiscent of the Ewok village from Return of the Jedi, Trees Adventure is a blast of tree climbs, flying foxes and obstacle courses in a stunning patch of old-growth forest boasting sequoia, mountain ash and Japanese oak trees.
The safety system on the course ensures you’re always attached to a secure line and the beginner sections are suitable for kids as young as five.
5Eating & Drinking
Pie in the SkyAUSTRALIAN
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.pieinthesky.net.au; 43 Olinda-Monbulk Rd, Olinda; pies from $5; h10am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-5pm Sat & Sun)
Try an Aussie poi, mate – go the award-winning classic Aussie or beef burgundy.
Miss Marple's TearoomTEAHOUSE
( GOOGLE MAP ; 382 Mt Dandenong Tourist Rd, Sassafras; dishes $13-17, Devonshire scones $9 for two; h11am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 4.30pm Sat & Sun)
This quaint English tearoom, inspired by an Agathie Christie character, comes with floral tablecloths, Devonshire scones and sticky toffee pudding, as well as lunch mains. It's wildly popular on weekends – two-hour waits aren't unusual.
8Information
Dandenong Ranges & Knox Visitor Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-9758 7522; www.dandenongrangestourism.com.au; 1211 Burwood Hwy, Upper Ferntree Gully; h1-5pm Mon, 9am-5pm Tue-Sat, 10.30am-2.30pm Sun; dUpper Ferntree Gully)
Outside the Upper Ferntree Gully train station. Good for walking maps.
8Getting There & Away
It’s just under an hour’s drive from Melbourne's city centre to Olinda, Sassafras or Belgrave. The quickest route is along the Eastern Fwy, exiting on Burwood Hwy or Boronia Rd. Suburban trains from Melbourne (Belgrave Line) head to Belgrave station.
WORTH A TRIP
ST ANDREWS
Sleepily ensconced in the hills 35km north of Melbourne, this little town is best known for the weekly St Andrews Community Market (www.standrewsmarket.com.au; h8am-2pm Sat). Every Saturday morning the scent of eucalypt competes with incense as an alternative crowd comes to mingle and buy handmade crafts, enjoy a shiatsu massage, sip chai, have their chakra aligned, or just listen to the street musos. To get here, a shuttle bus departs from Hurstbridge train station.
Beyond, the winding road from St Andrews up to Kinglake is one of the region’s great touring routes.
Yarra Valley
The lush Yarra Valley is Victoria’s premier wine region and weekend getaway – partly for its close proximity to Melbourne, but mainly for the 80-plus wineries, superb restaurants, national parks and wildlife. The valley covers a huge area, from the ruggedly beautiful Yarra Ranges National Park in the east to Kinglake National Park, a huge eucalypt forest on the slopes of the Great Dividing Range, in the west. In between is the vine-covered valley itself. Coldstream is considered the gateway to the Yarra Valley winery region and most of the wineries are found within a triangle bound by Coldstream, Healesville and Yarra Glen.
Healesville
Pretty little Healesville is the main town and base for exploring the triangular area of the Lower Yarra Valley. It’s famous for its wildlife sanctuary, and perfectly located for easy access to some of the region’s finest wineries – from here it’s a scenic drive or cycle circuit to Yarra Glen and Coldstream.
1Sights & Activities
oHealesville SanctuaryZOO
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5957 2800; www.zoo.org.au/healesville; Badger Creek Rd, Healesville; adult/child/family $30.80/13.60/74.60; h9am-5pm; g685, 686)
One of the best places in southern Australia to see native fauna, this wildlife park is full of kangaroos, dingoes, lyrebirds, Tasmanian devils, bats, koalas, eagles, snakes and lizards. The Platypus House displays the shy underwater creatures and there's a daily interactive show at 11.30am (plus 2pm weekends). The exciting Birds of Prey presentation (noon and 2.30pm daily) features huge wedge-tailed eagles and owls soaring through the air. Admission for kids is free on weekends.
YARRA VALLEY WINERIES
The Yarra Valley (www.wineyarravalley.com) has more than 80 wineries and 50 cellar doors scattered around its rolling, vine-cloaked hills, and is recognised as Victoria’s oldest wine region – the first vines were planted at Yering Station in 1838. The region produces cool-climate, food-friendly drops such as chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot gris, as well as not-half-bad, full-bodied reds.
Domain ChandonWINERY
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-9738 9200; www.chandon.com; 727 Maroondah Hwy, Coldstream; h10.30am-4.30pm)
On the Maroondah Hwy, between Coldstream and Healesville, Domaine Chandon is an example of mass wine tourism done well. The winery – a subsidiary of Moët & Chandon – has a superbly designed reception area overlooking a stunning vista where visitors can sample and buy wines. Guided tours run at 11am, 1pm and 3pm and include a peek at the atmospheric riddling hall.
OakridgeWINERY
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-9738 9900; www.oakridgewines.com.au; 864 Maroondah Hwy, Coldstream; h10am-5pm)
Won The Age and Sydney Morning Herald winery of the year in 2012.
RochfordWINERY
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5962 2119; www.rochfordwines.com.au; 878-880 Maroondah Hwy, cnr Hill Rd, Coldstream; h9am-5pm)
Large winery with restaurant and gallery, plus fine cabernet sauvignon and pinot noir. Best known for its huge winery concerts.
TarraWarra EstateWINERY
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5957 3510; www.tarrawarra.com.au; 311 Healesville–Yarra Glen Rd, Healesville; tastings $4; h11am-5pm)
TarraWarra is a surprisingly striking and modern art gallery showing wonderful exhibitions. Refuel at the neighbouring bistro and cellar door.
Yering StationWINERY
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-9730 0100; www.yering.com; 38 Melba Hwy, Yering; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun)
Taste wines in the original 1859 winery then take in the view from the upstairs cafe and buy up in the produce store. Walk through the lovely grounds to the modern fine-dining restaurant. The Yarra Valley Farmers’ Market is held here every third Sunday.
Yarra Valley Winery ToursTOUR
(%1300 496 105; www.yarravalleywinerytours.com.au; tours from Yarra Valley/Melbourne $105/140)
Daily tours taking in four or five wineries, plus lunch.
4Sleeping & Eating
A number of wineries offer luxury accommodation and there are lots of B&Bs, farmstays and guesthouses in the Yarra Valley – check out the accommodation booking service at www.visityarravalley.com.au.
Healesville HotelHOTEL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5962 4002; www.yarravalleyharvest.com.au; 256 Maroondah Hwy, Healesville; d midweek/weekend from $110/130, Sat incl dinner $325; aW)
A Healesville landmark, this restored 1910 hotel offers boutique rooms upstairs with crisp white linen, pressed-metal ceilings and spotless shared bathrooms. Also has chic apartments behind the hotel in Furmston House (studio from $180).
Tuck InnB&B
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5962 3600; www.tuckinn.com.au; 2 Church St, Healesville; d midweek/weekend from $150/180; a)
This former Masonic lodge has been refitted in a contemporary style – a beautiful and stylish five-room guesthouse with friendly hosts. Full breakfast included.
oGiant Steps & Innocent BystanderTAPAS, PIZZA
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5962 6111; www.innocentbystander.com.au; 336 Maroondah Hwy, Healesville; mains $20-45; h10am-10pm Mon-Fri, 8am-10pm Sat & Sun; W)
The industrial-sized Giants Steps & Innocent Bystander is a buzzing restaurant and cellar door – a great place for delicious pizzas, tapas and cheese platters, or a lazy afternoon drink. Wine tasting is free at the bar, or tour its barrel hall to sample the vintages for $10 (redeemable upon wine purchase).
YARRA VALLEY CIDER & ALE TRAIL
While it's wine that brings most visitors to the Yarra Valley, the Cider & Ale Trail (www.ciderandaletrail.com.au) will lead you on a fantastic route visiting local microbreweries and cider producers.
Buckley's BeerBREWERY
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0408 354 909; www.buckleysbeer.com.au; 30 Hunter Rd, Healesville; h11am-5pm Sat & Sun)
On a mission to 'save the world one brew at a time', Buckley's has been hand-crafting its traditional lagers and ales for over a decade. Tours and tastings on weekends only.
Kelly Brothers Cider CoBREWERY
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-9722 1304; www.kellybrothers.com.au; Fulford Rd, Wonga Park; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun)
In the business of making cider since the 1960s. Sample its goods made with local pears and apples.
Napoleone CiderBREWERY
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-9739 0666; www.napoleonecider.com.au; 10 St Huberts Rd, Coldstream; h10am-5pm)
Produces a variety of pear and apple ciders crushed on site using fruit picked from its orchard. Also does a pale ale beer. Free tastings.
White Rabbit BreweryBREWERY
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5962 6516; www.whiterabbitbeer.com.au; 316 Maroondah Hwy, Healesville; h11am-5pm Sat-Thu, to 9pm Fri)
A must-visit for beer lovers, this microbrewery has an understated blokiness about it with a few retro couches and benches set up deadset in the middle of its production area so you can enjoy a few cold ones surrounded by huge vats and bottling machines. Expect a lot of clamour midweek. Also does great pizzas.
Aussie Brewery ToursTOUR
(%1300 787 039; www.aussiebrewerytours.com.au; tour incl transport, lunch and tastings $150)
Melbourne-based Aussie Brewery Tours offers popular trips.
8Information
Yarra Valley Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5962 2600; www.visityarravalley.com.au; Harker St, Healesville; h9am-5pm)
The main info centre for the Lower Yarra Valley, with loads of brochures as well as maps for sale.
8Getting There & Away
Healesville is 65km north of Melbourne, an easy one-hour drive via the Eastern Fwy and Maroondah Hwy/B360. From Melbourne, suburban trains run to Lilydale, where there are regular buses to Healesville.
McKenzie’s Bus LinesBUS
(%03-5962 5088; www.mckenzies.com.au)
Buses daily from Melbourne's Southern Cross Station to Healesville (1½ hours, $6.20) en route to Marysville and Eildon; check the website for schedule.
WORTH A TRIP
LAKE MOUNTAIN & MARYSVILLE
Spread across a valley between Narbethong and Lake Mountain, Marysville was at the epicentre of the tragic 2009 bushfires, during which most of the town’s buildings were destroyed and 34 people lost their lives. The town's tight-knit community is steadily rebuilding and it’s still the main base for the cross-country ski fields at Lake Mountain.
Part of the Yarra Ranges National Park, Lake Mountain (1433m) is the premier cross-country skiing resort in Australia, with 37km of trails and several toboggan runs. In summer there are marked hiking and mountain-biking trails. There’s no on-mountain accommodation, but Marysville is only 10km away.
During the ski season the daily gate fee is $35 per car on weekends and holidays, and $25 midweek; trail fees costs from $11.90/5.90 per adult/child. Outside the season there’s only a parking fee of $2.
2Activities
Lake Mountain Alpine ResortSKIING
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5957 7222; www.lakemountainresort.com.au; Snowy Rd; h8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri Oct-May, to 6.30pm Jun-Sep)
Has ski hire, a ski school, a cafe and undercover barbecue areas.
Marysville Ski CentreSKIING
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.marysvilleski.com.au; 27 Murchison St, Marysville; hJun-Sep)
Hires skis, toboggans, clothing and car chains.
4Sleeping
Crossways Historic Country InnMOTEL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5963 3290; www.crosswaysmarysville.com.au; 4 Woods Point Rd, Marysville; d $120, 2-bedroom cottage $195)
Crossways has been around since the 1920s and, remarkably, survived the bushfires. Family-friendly accommodation includes individual log-cabin-style units and the River Cottage, a modern two-bedroom unit.
The TowerMOTEL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5963 3225; www.towermotel.com.au; 33 Murchison St, Marysville; s/d/f $125/145/165; aW)
One of the few buildings on the main road to survive Black Saturday, the Tower embraces its 1970s motel facade, and recent renovations have jazzed it up to almost boutique levels. The owners are ultra friendly and it has an attractive courtyard and wine bar, while rooms come with minibars, cable TV and free wi-fi. Rates increase in ski season.
8Getting There & Away
Lake Mountain Snow BusBUS
(Country Touch Tours; %03-5963 3753; www.lakemountainsnowbus.com; 24 Murchison St, Marysville)
The Lake Mountain Snow Bus operates a return service to Lake Mountain, including gate entry fee, from Marysville (departs 10.30am, adult/child $45/40) and Healesville (10am Saturday, adult/child $45/40). The bus returns from Lake Mountain at 3pm.
Mornington Peninsula
The Mornington Peninsula – the boot-shaped area of land between Port Phillip Bay and Western Port Bay – has been Melbourne’s summer playground since the 1870s, when paddle steamers ran down to Portsea. Today, much of the interior farmland has been replaced by vineyards and orchards – foodies love the peninsula, where a winery lunch is a real highlight – but it still retains lovely stands of native bushland.
The calm front beaches are on the Port Phillip Bay side, where families holiday at bayside towns from Mornington to Sorrento. The rugged ocean back beaches face Bass Strait and are easily reached from Portsea, Sorrento and Rye – there are stunning walks along this coastal strip, which is part of the Mornington Peninsula National Park.
8Information
Peninsula Visitor Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(%1800 804 009, 03-5987 3078; www.visitmorningtonpeninsula.org; 359b Nepean Hwy, Dromana; h9am-5pm)
The main information centre for the peninsula can book accommodation and tours. There are also visitor centres in Mornington (%03-5975 1644; www.visitmorningtonpeninsula.org; 320 Main St, Mornington; h9am-5pm) and Sorrento (%03-5984 1478; cnr George St & Ocean Beach Rd).
8Getting There & Away
Moorooduc Hwy and Point Nepean Rd both feed into the Mornington Peninsula Fwy, the main peninsula access. Alternately, exit the Moorooduc Hwy to Mornington and take the coast road around Port Phillip Bay.
Queenscliff–Sorrento FerryFERRY
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5258 3244; www.searoad.com.au; foot passenger one way adult/child $11/8, 2 adults & car one way/return $73/136; hhourly 7am-6pm, until 7pm Jan & long weekends)
Connects Sorrento with Queenscliff across Port Phillip Bay.
Sorrento & Portsea
Historic Sorrento is the standout town on the Mornington Peninsula for its beautiful limestone buildings, ocean and bay beaches and buzzing seaside summer atmosphere. This was the site of Victoria’s first official European settlement, established by an expedition of convicts, marines, civil officers and free settlers who arrived from England in 1803.
Only 4km further west, tiny Portsea also has good back beaches, and diving and water-sports operators.
1Sights & Activities
The calm bay beach is good for families and you can hire paddle boards on the foreshore. At low tide, the rock pool at the back beach is a safe spot for adults and children to swim and snorkel, and the surf beach is patrolled in summer.
oMoonraker ChartersWILDLIFE WATCHING
(%03-5984 4211; www.moonrakercharters.com.au; 7 George St, Sorrento; adult/child sightseeing $55/44, dolphin & seal swimming $129/115)
Operates three-hour dolphin- and seal-swimming tours from Sorrento Pier.
oPolperro Dolphin SwimsWILDLIFE WATCHING
(%03-5988 8437; www.polperro.com.au; adult/child sightseeing $55/35, dolphin & seal swimming adult & child $135)
Popular morning and afternoon dolphin- and seal-swimming tours from Sorrento Pier.
4Sleeping & Eating
Carmel of SorrentoGUESTHOUSE
(%03-5984 3512; www.carmelofsorrento.com.au; 142 Ocean Beach Rd, Sorrento; d $130-220)
This lovely old limestone house, right in the centre of Sorrento, has been tastefully restored in period style and neatly marries the town’s history with contemporary comfort. There are three Edwardian-style suites with bathrooms and continental breakfast, and two modern self-contained units.
Portsea HotelHOTEL
(%03-5984 2213; www.portseahotel.com.au; Point Nepean Rd, Portsea; s/d without bathroom from $75/105, s/d with bathroom from $135/175)
Portsea’s pulse is the sprawling, half-timber Portsea Hotel, an enormous pub with a great lawn and terrace area looking out over the bay. There’s an excellent bistro (mains $24 to $39) and old-style accommodation (most rooms have shared bathroom) that increases in price based on sea views (weekend rates are higher).
Hotel SorrentoHOTEL
(%03-5984 2206; www.hotelsorrento.com.au; 5-15 Hotham Rd, Sorrento; motel r $195-280, apt $220-320)
The legendary Hotel Sorrento trades on its famous name and has a swag of accommodation. ‘Sorrento on the Park’ offers standard and overpriced motel rooms, but the lovely ‘On the Hill’ double and family apartments have airy living spaces, spacious bathrooms and private balconies.
The BathsFISH & CHIPS
(%03-5984 1500; www.thebaths.com.au; 3278 Point Nepean Rd, Sorrento; fish & chips $10, restaurant mains $27-36; hnoon-8pm)
The waterfront deck of the former sea baths is the perfect spot for lunch or a romantic sunset dinner overlooking the jetty and the Queenscliff ferry. The menu has some good seafood choices and there’s a popular takeaway fish and chippery at the front.
SmokehouseITALIAN
(%03-5984 1246; 182 Ocean Beach Rd, Sorrento; mains $20-34; h6-9pm)
Gourmet pizzas and pastas are the speciality at this local family favourite. Innovative toppings and the aromas wafting from the wood-fired oven hint at the key to its success.
Phillip Island
Pop 9406
Famous for the Penguin Parade and Motorcycle Grand Prix racing circuit, Phillip Island attracts a curious mix of surfers, petrolheads and international tourists making a beeline for those little penguins.
At its heart Phillip Island is still a farming community, but nature has conspired to turn it into one of Victoria’s hottest tourist destinations. Apart from the nightly waddling of the penguins, there’s a large seal colony, abundant bird life around the Rhyll wetlands and a koala colony. The rugged south coast has some fabulous surf beaches and the swell of tourists – the holiday population jumps to around 40,000 over summer – means there’s a swag of family attractions, plenty of accommodation and a buzzing, if unexciting, cafe and restaurant scene in the island capital, Cowes. Visit in winter, though, and you’ll find a very quiet place where the local population of farmers, surfers and hippies goes about its business.
Phillip Island
2Activities, Courses & Tours
1Sights & Activities
Cowes Main Beach is calm and safe for swimming – head over to the long Cowes East Beach for a quieter time. The best surf beaches are along the southern coast. Spectacular Cape Woolamai is the most popular surf beach, but rips and currents make it suitable only for experienced surfers. Beginners and families head to Smiths Beach, which is often teeming with surf-school groups. Both are patrolled in summer. Berrys Beach is another beautiful spot and usually quieter than Woolamai or Smiths. Around the Nobbies, Cat Bay and Flynns Reef will often be calm when the wind is blowing onshore at the Woolamai and Smiths areas.
oPenguin ParadeWILDLIFE RESERVE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5951 2800; www.penguins.org.au; Summerland Beach; adult/child/family $23.80/11.90/59.50; h10am-dusk, penguins arrive at sunset)
The Penguin Parade attracts more than 500,000 visitors annually to see the little penguins (Eudyptula minor), the world’s smallest penguins, and probably the cutest of their kind. The penguin complex includes concrete amphitheatres that hold up to 3800 spectators who come to see the little fellas just after sunset as they waddle from the sea to their burrows.
Penguin numbers swell in summer, after breeding, but they’re in residence year-round. After the parade, hang around the boardwalks for a closer view as the stragglers search for their burrows and mates. Bring warm clothing. There are a variety of specialised tours (www.penguins.org.au; adult $44-80), where you can be accompanied by rangers to explain the behaviour of penguins, or see the penguins from the vantage of a Skybox (an elevated platform). There’s also a cafe and an interpretive centre at the complex.
Koala Conservation CentreZOO
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5951 2800; www.penguins.org.au; 1810 Phillip Island Rd, Cowes; adult/child/family $11.90/5.95/29.75; h10am-5pm, extended hr in summer)
From the boardwalks here you’re certain to see koalas chewing on eucalyptus leaves or dozing away – they sleep about 20 hours a day!
oSeal Rocks & the NobbiesWILDLIFE WATCHING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h11am-5pm)
The Nobbies are a couple of large, craggy, offshore rocks at the island’s southwestern tip. Beyond them are Seal Rocks, which are inhabited by Australia’s largest fur-seal colony. The Nobbies Centre ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5951 2852; www.penguins.org.au; h11am-1hr before sunset) offers great views over the Nobbies and the 6000-or-so distant Australian fur seals that sun themselves there. You can view the seals from boardwalk binoculars or use the centre’s underwater cameras ($5).
The centre also has some fascinating interactive exhibits, a kids' games room and a cafe.
oPhillip Island Grand Prix CircuitADVENTURE SPORTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5952 9400; Back Beach Rd)
Even when the motorbikes aren’t racing, petrolheads love the Grand Prix Motor Racing Circuit, which was souped up for the Australian Motorcycle Grand Prix in 1989. The visitor centre runs guided circuit tours (http://phillipislandcircuit.com.au; adult/child/family $22/13/57; htours 2pm), or check out the History of Motorsport Museum (adult/child/family $15/8/38). The more adventurous can cut laps of the track with a racing driver in hotted-up V8s ($330; bookings essential).
Drive yourself in a go-kart around a scale replica of the track with Phillip Island Circuit Go Karts (per 10/20/30min $35/60/80).
Island SurfboardsSURFING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5952 3443; www.islandsurfboards.com.au; 65 Smiths Beach Rd, Smiths Beach; lessons $65, surfboard hire per hr/day $12.50/40)
Island Surfboards can start your waxhead career with wetsuit hire and lessons for all standards. Also has a store at Cowes ( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5952 2578; www.islandsurfboards.com.au; 147 Thompson Ave; board hire per hour/day $12.50/40).
TTours
Go WestTOUR
(%1300 736 551, 03-9485 5290; www.gowest.com.au; tour $135)
One-day tour from Melbourne that includes lunch and iPod commentary in several languages. Includes entry to the Penguin Parade.
Wildlife Coast CruisesBOAT TOUR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5952 3501; www.wildlifecoastcruises.com.au; Rotunda Bldg, Cowes Jetty; seal watching adult/child $72/49; h2pm Fri-Wed May-Sep, 2pm & 4.30pm daily Oct-Apr)
Runs a variety of cruises, including seal-watching, twilight and cape cruises. Also runs a two-hour cruise to French Island (adult/child $30/20) and a full-day cruise to Wilsons Promontory ($190/140).
zFestivals & Events
Australian Motorcycle Grand PrixSPORTS
The island’s biggest event – three days of bike action in October.
4Sleeping & Eating
Island Accommodation YHAHOSTEL
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5956 6123; www.theislandaccommodation.com.au; 10-12 Phillip Island Rd, Newhaven; dm/d from $35/165; iW)S
This large, purpose-built backpackers has huge identical living areas on each floor, complete with table-tennis tables and cosy fireplaces for winter. Its rooftop deck has terrific views and its eco-credentials are excellent. Cheapest dorms sleep 12 and doubles are motel standard.
Waves ApartmentsAPARTMENT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5952 1351; www.thewaves.com.au; 1 Esplanade, Cowes; d from $195; aW)
These slick apartments overlook Cowes Main Beach, so you can’t beat the balcony views if you go for a beachfront unit. The modern, self-contained apartments come with spa, and balcony or patio.
ClifftopBOUTIQUE HOTEL
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5952 1033; www.clifftop.com.au; 1 Marlin St, Smiths Beach; d $235-300; a)
It’s hard to imagine a better location for your island stay than perched above Smiths Beach. Of the seven luxurious suites here, the top four have ocean views and private balconies, while the downstairs rooms open onto gardens – all have fluffy beds and slick contemporary decor.
White SaltFISH & CHIPS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5956 6336; 7 Vista Pl, Cape Woolamai; fish from $6.50, meal packs from $15; h5-8pm Wed, Thu & Sun, noon-8.30pm Fri & Sat)
White Salt serves the best fish and chips on the island – select from fish fillets and hand-cut chips, tempura prawns and marinated barbecue octopus salad with corn, pesto and lemon.
Fig & Olive at CowesMODERN AUSTRALIAN
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5952 2655; www.figandoliveatcowes.com.au; 115 Thompson Ave, Cowes; mains $24-38; h9am-late Wed-Mon)
A groovy mix of timber, stone and lime-green decor makes this a relaxing place to enjoy a beautifully presented meal, or a late-night cocktail. The eclectic menu is strong on seafood and moves from paella or pork belly to wood-fired Tasmanian salmon.
8Information
Phillip Island Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(%1300 366 422; www.visitphillipisland.com; 895 Phillip Island Tourist Rd, Newhaven; h9am-5pm, to 6pm school holidays)
The main visitor centre for the island is on the main road at Newhaven, and there’s a smaller centre at Cowes ( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Thompson & Church Sts, Cowes). Both sell the Three Parks Pass (adult/child/family $36/18/90), covering the Penguin Parade, Koala Conservation Centre and Churchill Island Heritage Farm, and the main centre has a free accommodation- and tour-booking service.
8Getting There & Away
About 140km from Melbourne, Phillip Island can only be accessed by car across the bridge between San Remo and Newhaven. From Melbourne take the Monash Fwy and exit at Pakenham, joining the South Gippsland Hwy at Koo Wee Rup.
V/LineTRAIN, BUS
(%1800 800 007; www.vline.com.au)
V/Line has train/bus services from Melbourne's Southern Cross Station via Dandenong Station or Koo Wee Rup ($12.80, 2½ hours). There are no direct services.