Barossa Valley & Southeastern SA

Barossa Valley & Southeastern SA

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Why Go?

From legendary wine regions north of Adelaide, around the lugubrious bends of the Murray River and down along the Limestone Coast, this vast swathe of South Australia demands your undivided attention.

You can tackle the Barossa and Clare Valleys as day trips from Adelaide, but when the wine and food are this good, why rush? Spend a few days in each, exploring old-fangled towns, cycling between cellar doors, eating and revelling in general hedonism. These compact corners of SA are custom-built holiday haunts.

Conversely, the Murray River is vast, curling across the entire state. Towns here are utilitarian, with country sensibility at the helm. Silently sliding by, the river is undeniable in its beauty and grace.

Heading southeast, trace the Limestone Coast through the sea-salty Coorong, past beachy holiday towns to Mount Gambier, SA's second city. And, if you haven't already OD'd on wine, the Coonawarra Wine Region awaits.

When to Go

tanunda-crm-ccjpg

AMar–May Low autumn sunsets and russet-red grapevines: harvest is in the air.

AOct–Nov Springtime on the Murray River, before the jet skis arrive en masse.

ADec–Feb Summer's here and the time is right for snoozing on the beach.

Barossa Valley & Southeastern SA Highlights

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1 Cycle between cellar doors along the Riesling Trail in the Clare Valley.

2 Eat some sauerkraut and schnitzels in the Barossa Valley, washed down with fine wine.

3 Hire a houseboat and chug around the bends of the Murray River.

4 Lose a few hours (or days) exploring the quiet corners of the Coorong National Park.

5 Assess the colour of the Blue Lake in Mount Gambier.

6 Go underground at the World Heritage–listed Naracoorte Caves National Park.

7 Learn to tell your cab sav from your shiraz in the Coonawarra Wine Region.

8 Chill-out on the beach in Robe after a hard day in the surf.

Barossa Valley

With hot, dry summers and cool, moderate winters, the Barossa is one of the world's great wine regions − an absolute must for anyone with even the slightest interest in a good drop. It's a compact valley − just 25km long − yet it manages to produce 21% of Australia's wine, and it makes a no-fuss day trip from Adelaide, 65km to the southwest.

The local towns have a distinctly German heritage, dating back to 1842. Fleeing religious persecution in Prussia and Silesia, settlers (bringing their vine cuttings with them) created a Lutheran heartland where German traditions persist today. The physical remnants of colonisation − Gothic church steeples and stone cottages − are everywhere. Cultural legacies of the early days include a dubious passion for oom-pah bands, and an appetite for wurst, pretzels and sauerkraut.

TTours

Wine-flavoured day tours departing Adelaide or locally are bountiful; the Barossa Visitor Information Centre makes bookings.

Balloon AdventuresBALLOONING

(icon-phonegif%08-8562 3111; www.balloonadventures.com.au; flights adult/child $300/195)

Fly the Barossa sky in a hot-air balloon. One-hour flights depart Tanunda and include a champagne breakfast.

Barossa Wine Lovers ToursTOUR

(icon-phonegif%08-8270 5500; www.wineloverstours.com.au; tours incl lunch from $75)

Minibus tours to wineries, lookouts, shops and heritage buildings…a good blend. Good for groups; minimum numbers apply.

Groovy GrapeTOUR

(icon-phonegif%1800 661 177; www.groovygrape.com.au; full-day tours $90)

Backpacker-centric day tours ex-Adelaide with a BBQ lunch: good value, good fun. November to April only.

Taste the BarossaTOUR

(icon-phonegif%08-8357 1594; www.winetoursbarossa.com; full-day tours $99)

Great-value minibus tours ex-Adelaide visiting a fistful of top wineries, with lunch at Peter Lehmann.

Uber Cycle AdventuresCYCLING

(icon-phonegif%08-8563 1148; www.ubercycle.com.au; 2hr/half-day/full-day tours $95/145/195)

Get on your bike and see the Barossa on two wheels, with lots of native flora and fauna en route (oh, and some wine!).

zFestivals & Events

Barossa Vintage FestivalFOOD, WINE

(www.barossavintagefestival.com.au)

A week-long festival with music, maypole dancing, tug-of-war contests etc; around Easter in odd-numbered years.

Barossa Gourmet WeekendFOOD, WINE

(www.barossagourmet.com)

Fab food matched with winning wines at select wineries; happens in late winter or early spring.

A Day on the GreenMUSIC

(www.adayonthegreen.com.au)

Mature-age moshpit at Peter Lehmann Wines, with mature-age acts (Jimmy Barnes, Cheap Trick, Dragon). Held in December.

8Getting There & Around

Bicycle

The 27km Jack Brobridge Track runs from Gawler to Tanunda, with a 13km rail trail continuing through Nuriootpa to Angaston, passing plenty of wineries.

Based in Nuriootpa, Barossa Bike Hire ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0412 380 651; www.barossabikehire.com.au; 5 South Tce, Nuriootpa) rents out quality cycles/tandems from $35/70 per day. Angaston Hardware ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8564 2055; www.angastonhardware.com.au; 5 Sturt St; icon-hoursgifh8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat, 10am-4pm Sun) also rents out bikes for $25/40 per half- /full-day. Pick up the Barossa by Bike brochure at the Barossa Visitor Information Centre in Tanunda.

Bus & Train

AAdelaide Metro (www.adelaidemetro.com.au) runs regular daily trains to Gawler ($5.10, one hour), from where LinkSA (www.linksa.com.au) buses run to Tanunda ($9.60, 45 minutes), Nuriootpa ($12.20, one hour) and Angaston ($14.80, 1¼ hours).

Taxi

Barossa TaxisTAXI

(icon-phonegif%0411 150 850; www.barossataxis.com.au; icon-hoursgifh24hr)

Taxis for up to nine people.

DON'T MISS

BAROSSA VALLEY WINERIES

The Barossa is best known for shiraz, with riesling the dominant white. There are around 80 vineyards here and 60 cellar doors, ranging from boutique wine rooms to monstrous complexes. The long-established 'Barossa Barons' hold sway − big, ballsy and brassy − while spritely young boutique wineries are harder to sniff out.

HenschkeWINERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.henschke.com.au; Henschke Rd, Keyneton; icon-hoursgifh9am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat)

About 10km southeast of Angaston in the Eden Valley, old-school Henschke is known for its iconic Hill of Grace red, but most of the wines here are classics.

PenfoldsWINERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.penfolds.com.au; 30 Tanunda Rd, Nuriootpa; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm)

You know the name: Penfolds is a Barossa institution. Book ahead for the 'Make Your Own Blend' tour ($65), or the 'Taste of Grange' tour ($150), which allows you to slide some Grange Hermitage across your lips.

Peter Lehmann WinesWINERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.peterlehmannwines.com.au; Para Rd, Tanunda; icon-hoursgifh9.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-4.30pm Sat & Sun)

The shiraz and riesling vintages here (oh, and semillon) are probably the most consistent, affordable and widely distributed wines in the Barossa. Peter Lehmann passed away in 2013: pay your respects with a cellar door visit.

St HallettWINERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.sthallett.com.au; St Hallett Rd, Tanunda; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm)

Using only Barossa grapes, improving St Hallet produces reasonably priced but consistently good whites (try the Poacher’s Blend) and the excellent Old Block Shiraz. Unpretentious and great value for money.

Rockford WinesWINERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.rockfordwines.com.au; Krondorf Rd, Tanunda; icon-hoursgifh11am-5pm)

One of our favourite boutique Barossa wineries, this 1850s cellar door sells traditionally made, small-range wines, including sparkling reds. The Black Shiraz is a sparkling, spicy killer.

Tanunda

Pop 4680

At the centre of the valley both geographically and socially, Tanunda is the Barossa's main tourist town. Tanunda manages to morph the practicality of Nuriootpa with the charm of Angaston without a sniff of self-importance. The wineries are what you're here for − sip, sip, sip!

1Sights

Mengler Hill LookoutVIEWPOINT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Mengler Hill Rd; icon-hoursgifh24hr)icon-freeF

From Tanunda, take the scenic route to Angaston via Bethany for hazy valley views (just ignore the naff sculptures in the foreground). The road tracks through beautiful rural country, studded with huge eucalyptuses.

Barossa MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.community.history.sa.gov.au/barossa-museum; 47 Murray St; adult/child $2/1; icon-hoursgifh10am-5.30pm Tue-Fri, 9am-12.30pm Sat)

Inside this 1856 post office building (access via the bike-repair shop out the front) are displays of bone-handled cutlery, butter-making gear, photos of top-hatted locals, a re-created colonial bedroom and an amazing map of Germany pinpointing the homelands of Barossa settlers. The Indigenous coverage could use a little help.

Keg FactoryFACTORY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.thekegfactory.com.au; 25 St Hallett Rd; icon-hoursgifh10am-4pm)icon-freeF

Watch honest-to-goodness coopers make and repair wine barrels, 4km south of town. Amazing!

Goat SquareHISTORIC SITE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr John & Maria Sts)icon-freeF

Tanunda is flush with historic buildings, including the cottages around this square, on John St. This was the ziegenmarkt, a meeting and market place, laid out in 1842 as Tanunda's original town centre.

Barossa Regional GalleryGALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.freewebs.com/barossagallery; 3 Basedow Rd, Soldiers Memorial Hall; icon-hoursgifh11am-4pm Wed-Mon)icon-freeF

Has an eclectic collection of paintings, crafts and touring exhibitions, plus an impressive set of organ pipes at the back of the room.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

BAROSSA REGIONAL PARKS

For a little grape-free time away from the vines, you can’t beat the Barossa’s regional parks, with walking tracks for everyone from Sunday strollers to hardcore bushwalkers. The Barossa Visitor Information Centre can help with maps and directions.

Kaiserstuhl Conservation ParkNATURE RESERVE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8280 7048; www.environment.sa.gov.au; Tanunda Creek Rd, Angaston; icon-hoursgifhdaylight hours)icon-freeF

Known for excellent walks, 390-hectare Kaiserstuhl is en route from Mengler Hill to Angaston. The Stringybark Hike (2km loop) and Wallowa Hike (4.7km one way) start at the entrance, with fantastic views from atop the Barossa Ranges. Look for Nankeen kestrels and western grey roos.

Para Wirra Recreation ParkNATURE RESERVE

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8280 7048; www.environment.sa.gov.au; Humbug Scrub Rd, One Tree Hill; per person/car $4/10; icon-hoursgifh8am-sunset )

In the northern Mt Lofty Ranges, a 45km hook south of Tanunda, Parra Wirra offers 1417 hectares of walking tracks, scenic drives, barbecues and tennis courts. Emus search hopefully around picnic areas; western grey roos graze in the dusk.

Warren Conservation ParkNATURE RESERVE

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8280 7048; www.environment.sa.gov.au; Watts Gully Rd, Kersbrook; icon-hoursgifhdaylight hours)icon-freeF

Explore 363 tranquil hectares of wattles, banksias and spring heaths, plus pink, blue and statuesque river red gums. Steep tracks for experienced hikers.

4Sleeping

Barossa BackpackersHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8563 0198; www.barossabackpackers.com.au; 9 Basedow Rd; dm/s/d from $27/80/80; icon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

Occupying a converted, U-shaped winery office building 500m from Tanunda's main street, this newish backpackers is a clean, secure and shipshape affair, with good weekly rates. Management can help you find picking/pruning work. Bike hire $20 per day.

Tanunda HotelPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8563 2030; www.tanundahotel.com.au; 51 Murray St; d without/with bathroom $70/80, apt from $200; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

This boisterous ol' 1846 pub in the town centre is a real community hub. Pub rooms upstairs are good value and clean; out the back are nine ritzy mauve-coloured apartments. Downstairs, Duran Duran wails on the jukebox and schnitzels fall off the edges of plates (mains $18 to $37, serving noon to 2pm and 6pm to 8pm).

Discover Holiday Parks Barossa ValleyCARAVAN PARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1800 991 590, 08-8563 2784; www.discoveryholidayparks.com.au; Barossa Valley Way; unpowered/powered sites from $33/36, cabins without/with bathroom from $99/115, villas from $285; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

This spacious park just south of town is dotted with mature trees offering a little shade to ease your hangover. Facilities include a playground, barbecues, a laundry and bike hire for guests (per day $35). The flashy villas sleep up to six and have a two-night minimum stay.

Stonewell CottagesB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0417 848 977; www.stonewellcottages.com.au; Stonewell Rd; d cottages incl breakfast from $335; icon-acongifa)

These romantic, waterfront spa retreats and cottages are surrounded by vines and offer unbeatable privacy, comfort and serenity. Pet ducks waddle around rusty old ploughs as waterbirds splash down in the reservoir. Pricey, but worth it (good online specials; cheaper for multinight stays).

5Eating

Die Barossa Wurst Haus BakeryBAKERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 86a Murray St; meals $4-26; icon-hoursgifh7am-4pm)

'Give people what they want' is the creed at this German bakery, serving mettwurst (Bavarian sausage) rolls, cheeses, pies, cakes, strudel and all-day breakfasts. It's hard to go past a trad German roll with kransky sausage, sauerkraut, cheese and mustard. An emasculating display of phallic wursts dangles above the counter.

Cafe PodCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 58 Murray St; mains $10-19; icon-hoursgifh9am-3pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat, 8.30am-4pm Sun; icon-veggifv)

A casual slice of hippie life on main-street Tanunda, with plenty of GF and vegetarian options, and open fires and macramé rugs for chilly winter mornings. Falafels, Asian fish cakes, sandwiches, veggie burgers, nachos, herbal teas…centre your karma then head back out to the wineries.

icon-top-choiceoFerment AsianSOUTHEAST ASIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8563 0765; www.fermentasian.com.au; 90 Murray St; mains $23-33; icon-hoursgifhnoon-2pm Thu-Sun, 6pm-8.30pm Wed-Sat)

In a lovely old stone villa facing Tanunda's main street at a jaunty angle, Ferment always does things a little differently. What sounds exotic is actually refreshingly simple: cari rau = yellow vegetable curry; vit voi hoa chuoi = duck breast salad. Chef Tuoi Do really knows how to put it all together.

1918 Bistro & GrillMODERN AUSTRALIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8563 0405; www.1918.com.au; 94 Murray St; mains $29-40; icon-hoursgifhnoon-2.30pm daily, 6.30-9pm Mon-Sat, to 8pm Sun)

This enduring restaurant occupies a lovely old villa, set back from the street beneath a massive Norfolk Island pine. It's a sassy affair serving adventurous mains such as Szechuan-spiced roast duck with mandarin caramel. Book a verandah table.

8Information

Barossa Visitor Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1300 852 982, 08-8563 0600; www.barossa.com; 66-68 Murray St, Tanunda; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun; icon-wifigifW)

The low-down on the valley, plus internet access, and accommodation and tour bookings. Stocks the A Town Walk of Tanunda brochure.

Nuriootpa

Pop 5705

Along an endless main street at the northern end of the valley, Nuriootpa is the Barossa's commercial centre. It's not as endearing as Tanunda or Angaston, but has a certain agrarian appeal. Lutheran spirit runs deep in Nuri: a sign says, 'God has invested in you − are you showing any interest?'

Don't miss a drive along Seppeltsfield Road ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.seppeltsfieldroad.com), an incongruous avenue of huge palm trees meandering through the vineyards behind Nuri. Beyond Marananga the palm rows veer off the roadside and track up a hill to the Seppelt Family Mausoleum ( GOOGLE MAP ) − a Grecian shrine fronted by chunky Doric columns.

4Sleeping & Eating

Barossa Valley Tourist ParkCARAVAN PARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8562 1404; www.barossatouristpark.com.au; Penrice Rd; unpowered/powered sites from $30/35, cabins from $78; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

There are at least six different kinds of cabin at this shady park lined with pine trees, next to the Nuriootpa football oval (go Tigers!). All cabins have TVs, fridges and cooking facilities (not all come with with linen). Check out the 1930 Dodge 'House on Wheels' out the front − the seminal caravan?

Whistler FarmB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0415 139 758; www.whistlerfarm.com.au; 616 Samuel Rd; d incl breakfast $250; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

Surrounded by vineyards and native shrubs, this farmhouse B&B has a private guest wing with exposed timber beams, separate guest entry and two country-style rooms. Snooze on the wide verandah and contemplate a day's successful (or imminent) wine touring.

Barossa Old Garage B&BB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0407 203 016; www.barossaoldgaragebnb.com.au; Lot 15 Saleyards Rd; d from $265, extra person $75; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

Until a few years ago this quirky, retro place was actually a garage: now it's a bright B&B crammed full of amazing '50s and '60s memorabilia – everything from an old petrol pump to Coca-Cola glassware and chrome-and-red-vinyl barstools. Sleeps six in two bedrooms (no kids, sadly).

Maggie Beer's Farm ShopDELI

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.maggiebeer.com.au; 50 Pheasant Farm Rd; items $5-20, picnic baskets from $16; icon-hoursgifh10.30am-5pm)

Celebrity SA gourmet Maggie Beer has been hugely successful with her range of condiments, preserves and pâtés (and TV appearances!). The vibe here isn't as relaxed as it used to be, but stop by for some gourmet tastings, an ice cream, a cooking demo or a takeaway hamper of delicious bites. Off Samuel Rd.

Barossa Indian CuisineINDIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08- 8562 4005; www.barossa-indian-cuisine.com.au; 15 Murray St; mains $13-19; icon-hoursgifhnoon-3pm Wed-Sun, 6-9pm Tue-Sun; icon-veggifv)

Spice up your Barossa experience with a visit to this converted red-brick bank (love the old brass vault!), now the backdrop for select Indian offerings such as ginger and garlic prawns, vegetable korma and a 'ridiculously tasty' chicken vindaloo.

Angaston

Pop 1910

Photo-worthy Angaston was named after George Fife Angas, a pioneering Barossa pastoralist. An agricultural vibe persists, as there are relatively few wineries on the town doorstep: cows graze in paddocks at end of the town's streets, and there's a vague whiff of fertiliser in the air. Along the main drag are two pubs, some terrific eateries and a few B&Bs in old stone cottages (check for double glazing and ghosts − we had a sleepless night!).

1Sights

Barossa Valley Cheese CompanyCHEESE WRIGHT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.barossacheese.com.au; 67b Murray St; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat, 11am-3pm Sun)

The Barossa Valley Cheese Company is a fabulously stinky room, selling handmade cheeses from local cows and goats. Tastings are free, but it's unlikely you'll leave without buying a wedge of the Washington Washed Rind.

Barossa Farmers MarketMARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.barossafarmersmarket.com; cnr Stockwell & Nuriootpa Rds; icon-hoursgifh7.30-11.30am Sat)

Happens in the big farm shed behind Vintners Bar & Grill every Saturday. Expect hearty Germanic offerings, coffee, flowers, lots of local produce and questionable buskers.

4Sleeping & Eating

Marble LodgeB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8564 2478; www.marblelodge.com.au; 21 Dean St; d $225; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

A grandiose 1915 Federation-style villa on the hill behind the town, built from local pink and white granite. Accommodation in two plush suites behind the house (high colonial or high kitsch, depending on your world view). Breakfast is served in the main house.

Blond CoffeeCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.blondcoffee.com.au; 60 Murray St; mains $6-18; icon-hoursgifh7.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-3pm Sat, 9am-3pm Sun)

An elegant, breezy room with huge windows facing the main street, Blond serves nutty coffee and all-day cafe fare, including awesome pumpkin, capsicum and feta muffins, plus blackboard specials (beef and shiraz pie!). Fake-blonde, botoxed tourists share the window seats with down-to-earth regulars.

Angaston HotelPUB FOOD

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8564 2428; www.angastonhotel.com.au; 59 Murray St; mains $16-30; icon-hoursgifhnoon-2.30pm & 6-8.30pm)

The better looking of the town's two pubs, the friendly 1846 Angaston serves Barossa wines and the cheapest steaks this side of Argentina. Just try to ignore the Triumph of Silenus mural on the dining room wall ('Oh, it's hideous!' says the barmaid). There's basic shared-bathroom pub accommodation upstairs (singles and doubles $70).

Vintners Bar & GrillMODERN AUSTRALIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8564 2488; www.vintners.com.au; cnr Stockwell & Nuriootpa Rds; mains lunch $16-36, dinner $34-39; icon-hoursgifhnoon-2.30pm daily, 6.30-9pm Mon-Sat)

One of the Barossa's landmark restaurants, Vintners stresses simple elegance in both food and atmosphere. The dining room has an open fire, vineyard views and bolts of crisp white linen; menus concentrate on local produce (pray the cider-baked pork belly is on the menu when you visit).

Clare Valley

At the centre of the fertile midnorth agricultural district, two hours north of Adelaide, this skinny valley produces world-class rieslings and reds. This is gorgeous countryside, with open skies, rounded hills, stands of large gums and wind rippling over wheat fields. Towns here date from the 1840s; many were built to service the Burra copper mines.

TTours

Adelaide's Top Food & Wine ToursWINE

(icon-phonegif%08-8386 0888, 0412 268 8290412 268 829; www.topfoodandwinetours.com.au; tours per person incl lunch from $200)

Full-day, small group 'Clare Valley Explorer' tours ex-Adelaide, with a heavy/heady wine focus and some interesting small-town sights en route.

Clare Valley ExperiencesTOUR

(icon-phonegif%08-8842 1880; www.clarevalleyexperiences.com; tours per 2 people incl lunch $430)

Small-group winery tours ex-Clare Valley, including a winery lunch. Cheaper per person if you're with a group (eg $115 per person for five people). Tours with a half-day of cycling incorporated also available.

Grape Valley ToursTOUR

(icon-phonegif%0418 881 075; www.grapevalleytours.com.au; per person incl lunch from $265)

Full-day, small-group tours (two to seven people) ex-Adelaide or the Clare Valley, taking in plenty of wineries and with lunch included (angle the driver towards Skillogalee winery).

Swagabout ToursTOUR

(icon-phonegif%0408 845 378, 08-82661879; www.swagabouttours.com.au; tours from $190)

Dependable, informative, small-group, full-day Clare Valley day trips, ex-Adelaide. Low on the 'wine ponce' factor.

zFestivals & Events

A Day on the GreenMUSIC

(www.adayonthegreen.com.au)

The Barossa's favourite festival comes to Annie's Lane winery in the Clare Valley in February. Jimmy Barnes, Crowded House, Daryl Braithwaite…

Clare Valley Gourmet WeekendFOOD, WINE

(www.clarevalley.com.au)

A frenzy of wine, food and music in May.

Clare ShowFAIR

(www.sacountryshows.com)

The largest one-day show in SA, held in October.

8Getting There & Around

Bicycle

In Auburn and Clare you can hire a bike to pelt around the wineries. Rates are around $25/40 per half- /full-day.

THE RIESLING TRAIL

Following the course of a disused railway line between Auburn and Barinia, north of Clare, the fabulous Riesling Trail is 33km of wines, wheels and wonderment. It's primarily a cycling trail, but the gentle gradient means you can walk or push a pram along it just as easily. It's a two-hour dash end to end on a bike, but why hurry? There are three loop track detours and extensions to explore, and dozens of cellar doors to tempt you along the way. The Rattler Trail continues for another 19km south of Auburn to Riverton.

For bike hire, check out Clare Valley Cycle Hire or Riesling Trail Bike Hire in Clare, or Cogwebs in Auburn.

Bus

Yorke Peninsula CoachesBUS

(icon-phonegif%08-8821 2755; www.ypcoaches.com.au)

Runs Adelaide to Auburn ($32, 2¼ hours) and Clare ($40, 2¾ hours) Tuesday to Friday and Sunday. Extends to Burra ($40, 3¼ hours) on Thursday.

Taxi

Clare Valley TaxisTAXI

(icon-phonegif%08-8842 1400; www.131008.com)

Drop-off/pick-up anywhere along the Riesling Trail.

Auburn

Pop 320

Sleepy Auburn (1849) − the Clare Valley's southernmost village − is a leave-the-back-door-open-and-the-keys-in-the-ignition kinda town, with a time-warp vibe that makes you feel like you're in an old black-and-white photograph. The streets are defined by beautifully preserved, hand-built stone buildings; cottage gardens overflow with untidy blooms. Pick up a copy of the Walk with History at Auburn brochure from the Clare Valley Visitor Information Centre.

Now on the main route to the valley's wineries, Auburn initially serviced bullockies and South American muleteers whose wagons − up to 100 a day − trundled between Burra's copper mines and Port Wakefield.

The brilliant 33km Riesling Trail starts (or ends) at the restored Auburn Train Station. Cogwebs (icon-phonegif%08-8849 2380, 0400 290 687; www.cogwebs.com.au; 30 Main North Rd; bike hire per half-/full day $25/40, tandems $35/60; icon-hoursgifh8.30am-6pm, reduced winter hours; icon-wifigifW) has bike hire (and internet access).

4Sleeping & Eating

Auburn Shiraz MotelMOTEL

(icon-phonegif%08-8849 2125; www.auburnshirazmotel.com.au; Main North Rd; s/d/tr from $85/95/125; icon-acongifa)

This small motel on the Adelaide side of town has been proudly renovated with shiraz-coloured render and cabernet-coloured doors. There are nine bright units and friendly hosts. Bike hire $40 per day.

Rising Sun HotelPUB FOOD

(icon-phonegif%08-8849 2015; www.therisingsunhotel.com.au; 19 Main North Rd; mains $18-30; icon-hoursgifhnoon-2pm & 6-8pm; icon-wifigifW)

This classic 1850 pub has a huge rep for its atmosphere, food and accommodation. The pub food is inventive with plenty of local wines to try. Accommodation takes the form of en suite pub rooms and cottage mews rooms out the back (doubles including breakfast from $80 and $125 respectively).

icon-top-choiceoTerroirMODERN AUSTRALIAN

(icon-phonegif%08-8849 2509; www.facebook.com/terroirauburn; Main North Rd; mains breakfast $17-20, lunch $18-25, dinner $35-40; icon-hoursgifhnoon-2pm & 6-8pm Thu-Sat, 8.30-11am & noon-2pm Sun; icon-veggifv)

'Terroir' – a word often associated with the wine trade – defines the nature of a place: its altitude, its soil, its climate, its vibe. At this excellent restaurant it applies to ingredients, sourced seasonally from within 100 miles, and cooked with contemporary savvy. The menu changes weekly (pray for the house halloumi). Love the Mintaro slate floor!

DON'T MISS

CLARE VALLEY WINERIES

The Clare Valley's cool microclimates (around rivers, creeks and gullies) noticeably affect the local wines, enabling whites to be laid down for long periods and still be brilliant. The valley produces some of the world's best riesling, plus grand semillon and shiraz.

Hop & VineBREWERY, WINERY

(www.clarevalleybrewing.com.au; 20 Main North Rd, Auburn; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm)

This charismatic Auburn shopfront is an outlet for the Clare Valley Brewing Co – try their excellent red ale, Australian pale ale and grape cider. It's also the cellar door for three valley vineyards: Jeanneret, County Clare and Good Catholic Girl. Good bang for your buck!

KnappsteinWINERY

(www.knappstein.com.au; 2 Pioneer Ave, Clare; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat, 11am-4pm Sun)

Taking a minimal-intervention approach to wine making, Knappstein has built quite a name for itself. Shiraz and riesling steal the show, but they also make a mighty fine semillon sauvignon blanc blend (and beer!).

PikesWINERY

(www.pikeswines.com.au; Polish Hill River Rd, Sevenhill; icon-hoursgifh10am-4pm)

The industrious Pike family set up shop in 1984, and have been producing show-stopping riesling ever since (and shiraz, sangiovese, pinot grigio, viognier…). It also bottles up the zingy 'Oakbank Pilsener', if you're parched.

Sevenhill CellarsWINERY

(icon-phonegif%08-8843 4222; www.sevenhill.com.au; College Rd, Sevenhill; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm)

Want some religion with your drink? This place was established by Jesuits in 1851, making it the oldest winery in the Clare Valley (check out the incredible 1866 St Aloysius Church). Oh, and the wine is fine too!

icon-top-choiceoSkillogaleeWINERY

(icon-phonegif%08-8843 4311; www.skillogalee.com.au; 23 Trevarrick Rd, Sevenhill; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm)

Skillogalee is a small family outfit known for its spicy shiraz, fabulous food and top-notch riesling (a glass of which is like kissing a pretty girl on a summer afternoon). Kick back with a long, lazy lunch on the verandah (mains $20 to $35; book ahead).

Mintaro

Pop 230

Heritage-listed Mintaro (founded 1849; pronounced 'min-tair-oh') is a lovely stone village that could have been lifted out of the Cotswolds and plonked into the Australian bush. There are very few architectural intrusions from the 1900s − the whole place seems to have been largely left to its own devices. A fact for your next trivia night: Mintaro slate is used internationally in the manufacture of billiard tables.

Pick up the Historic Mintaro pamphlet around the valley.

1Sights & Activities

icon-top-choiceoMartindale HallHISTORIC BUILDING

(icon-phonegif%08-8843 9088; www.martindalehall.com; 1 Manoora Rd; adult/child $10/2.50; icon-hoursgifh11am-4pm Mon-Fri, noon-4pm Sat & Sun)

Martindale Hall is an astonishing 1880 manor 3km from Mintaro. Built for young pastoralist Edmund Bowman Jnr, who subsequently partied away the family fortune (OK, so drought and plummeting wool prices played a part…but it was mostly the partying), the manor features original furnishings, a magnificent blackwood staircase, Mintaro-slate billiard table and an opulent, museumlike smoking room. The hall starred as Appleyard College in the 1975 film Picnic at Hanging Rock, directed by Peter Weir. Mirandaaa…

B&B, and dinner plus B&B, packages allow you to spend a spooky night here ($130 and $260 respectively).

Mintaro MazeMAZE

(www.mintaromaze.com; Jacka Rd; adult/child $12/8; icon-hoursgifh10am-4pm Thu-Mon, daily school holidays, closed Feb)

Hedge your bets at Mintaro Maze as you try to find your way into the middle and back out again. There's a cafe here too.

5Eating

icon-top-choiceoReilly'sMODERN AUSTRALIAN

(icon-phonegif%08-8843 9013; www.reillyswines.com.au; cnr Hill St & Leasingham Rd; mains $18-30; icon-hoursgifh10am-4pm)

Reilly's started life as a cobbler's shop in 1856. An organic veggie garden out the back supplies the current restaurant, which is decorated with local art and serves creative, seasonal Mod Oz food (antipasto, rabbit terrine, spanikopita) and Reilly's wines. The owners also rent out four gorgeous old stone cottages on Hill St (doubles from $145).

Magpie & Stump HotelPUB FOOD

(icon-phonegif%08-8843 9014; www.mintaro.com.au/attractions/eateries; Burra St; mains $18-40; icon-hoursgifhnoon-2pm Fri-Sun, 6-8pm Wed-Sat)

The old Magpie & Stump was first licensed in 1851, and was a vital rehydration point for the copper carriers travelling between Burra and Port Wakefield. Schnitzels and steaks, log fires, a pool table, Mintaro-slate floors and a sunny beer garden out the front − the perfect pub?

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

BURRA

Bursting at the seams with historic sites, Burra (population 1110), 40km northeast of Clare, was a copper-mining boom town between 1847 and 1877 with a burgeoning Cornish community. Towns like Mintaro and Auburn serviced miners travelling between Burra and Port Wakefield, from where the copper was shipped. The miners had it tough here, excavating dugouts for themselves and their families to live in.

Burra Visitor Information Centre (icon-phonegif%1300 775 540, 08-8892 2154; www.visitburra.com; 2 Market Sq; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun) handles accommodation bookings and sells the self-guided Burra Heritage Passport (adult/child $25/free) providing access to eight historic sights and three museums.

Clare

Pop 3280

Named after County Clare in Ireland, this town was founded in 1842 and is the biggest in the valley – it's more practical than charming. All the requisite services are here (post, supermarket, fuel etc), but you'll have a more interesting Clare Valley experience sleeping out of town.

1Sights & Activities

Old Police Station MuseumMUSEUM

(icon-phonegif%08-8842 2376; www.nationaltrustsa.org.au; cnr Victoria & Neagles Rock Rd; adult/child $2/0.50; icon-hoursgifh10am-noon & 2-4pm Sat & Sun)

The 1850 cop shop and courthouse is now the Old Police Station Museum, displaying Victorian clothing, old photos, furniture and domestic bits and pieces.

Riesling Trail Bike HireBICYCLE RENTAL

(icon-phonegif%0418 777 318; www.rieslingtrailbikehire.com.au; 10 Warenda Rd; bike hire per half-/full day $25/40, tandems $40/60; icon-hoursgifh8am-6pm)

Quality two-wheelers (including two-seaters) right on the Riesling Trail itself.

Clare Valley Cycle HireBICYCLE RENTAL

(icon-phonegif%08-8842 2782, 0418 802 077; www.clarevalleycyclehire.com.au; 32 Victoria Rd; bike hire per half-/full day $17/25; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm)

Also has baby seats and pull-along buggies for the little 'uns.

4Sleeping

Bungaree StationB&B

(icon-phonegif%08-8842 2677; www.bungareestation.com.au; Main North Rd; per person per night $59-99; icon-swimgifs)

About 12km north of Clare this beautiful, 170-year-old homestead – once with 50 staff, a church and a school – is still a 3000-acre working farm. Accommodation is in simple, renovated heritage buildings, sleeping two-to-10, some with shared bathrooms. You can also feed farm animals, walk a history trail (per person $15) or have a dip in the pool.

Clare Caravan ParkCARAVAN PARK

(icon-phonegif%08-8842 2724; www.clarecaravanpark.com.au; Lot 136, Main North Rd; unpowered/powered sites from $20/35, cabins from $89; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

This huge, efficiently run park 4km south of town towards Auburn has secluded sites, all en suite cabins, a creek and giant gum trees. There's also an in-ground pool for cooling off postcycling.

Battunga B&BB&B

(icon-phonegif%08-8843 0120; www.battunga.com.au; Upper Skilly Rd, Watervale; d/q incl breakfast $195/315, extra person $60; icon-acongifa)

On an 80-hectare farm over the hills 2km west of Watervale (it's a little hard to find − ask for directions), Batunga has four apartments in two stone cottages with Mintaro-slate floors, barbecues, kitchenettes and wood fires. This is beautiful country − undulating farmland studded with huge eucalyptuses.

Riesling Trail & Clare Valley CottagesB&B

(icon-phonegif%0427 842 232; www.rtcvcottages.com.au; 9 Warenda Rd; d incl breakfast from $150, extra person $50; icon-acongifa)

A well-managed outfit offering seven contemporary cottages, encircled by country gardens and right on the Riesling Trail (Riesling Trail Bike Hire is across the street). The biggest cottage sleeps six; there are good deals on multinight stays.

5Eating

Wild SaffronCAFE

(icon-phonegif%08-8842 4255; www.wildsaffron.com.au; 288 Main North Rd; mains $7-18; icon-hoursgifh8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-12.30pm Sat, 9am-12.30pm Sun)

We're not sure how much wild saffron grows in the Clare Valley (most of it seems to be 'under vine', as they say), but this cafe is hugely popular regardless. No surprises on the menu (focaccias, baguettes, steak sandwiches, soup, home-made cakes), but it's simple stuff done well.

Artisans TableMODERN AUSTRALIAN

(icon-phonegif%08-8842 1796; www.artisanstable.com.au; Lot 3, Wendouree Rd; mains $28-32; icon-hoursgifhnoon-3pm Sat & Sun, 6-9pm Wed-Sat)

This mod, airy, hillside bar-restaurant has a broad, sunny balcony − perfect for a bottle of local riesling and some internationally inspired culinary offerings: a bit of Thai, a bit of Indian, a bit of Brazilian… Lots of seasonal and local produce (try the fish curry).

8Information

Clare Valley Visitor Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

(icon-phonegif%1800 242 131, 08-8842 2131; www.clarevalley.com.au; 33 Old North Rd; icon-hoursgifh10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat & Sun; icon-wifigifW)

Local info, internet access, valley-wide accommodation bookings and the Clare History Walk brochure. Located inside the Clare Library.

Murray River

On the lowest gradient of any Australian river, the slow-flowing Murray hooks through 650 South Australian kilometres. Tamed by weirs and locks, the Murray irrigates the fruit trees and vines of the sandy Riverland district to the north, and winds through the dairy country of the Murraylands district to the south. Raucous flocks of white corellas and pink galahs launch from cliffs and river red gums, darting across lush vineyards and orchards.

Prior to European colonisation, the Murray was home to Meru communities. Then came shallow-draught paddle steamers, carrying wool, wheat and supplies from Murray Bridge as far as central Queensland along the Darling River. With the advent of railways, river transport declined. These days, waterskiers, jet skis and houseboats crowd out the river, especially during summer. If your concept of riverine serenity doesn't include the roar of V8 inboards, then avoid the major towns and caravan parks during holidays and weekends.

8Getting There & Away

ALinkSA (www.linksa.com.au) runs several daily bus services between Adelaide and Murray Bridge ($22, 1¼ hours) sometimes via a bus change at Mt Barker in the Adelaide Hills; plus Murray Bridge to Mannum ($8, 30 minutes) from Monday to Friday.

APremier Stateliner (www.premierstateliner.com.au) runs daily Riverland buses from Adelaide, stopping in Waikerie ($45, 2½ hours), Barmera ($56, 3¼ hours), Berri ($56, 3½ hours) and Renmark ($56, four hours). Buses stop at Loxton ($56, 3¾ hours) daily, except Saturday.

HOUSEBOATING ON THE MURRAY

Houseboating is big business on the Murray. Meandering along the river is great fun – you just need to be over 18 with a current driving licence. Boats depart most riverside towns; book ahead, especially between October and April.

The Houseboat Hirers Association (icon-phonegif%1300 665 122, 08-8231 8466; www.houseboatbookings.com) website has pictures of each boat and can make bookings on your behalf. For a three-night weekend, expect to pay anywhere from $750 for two people to $2700 for a luxury 10-bed boat. Most boats sleep at least two couples and there's generally a bond involved (starting at $200). Many provide linen − just bring food and fine wine. See also SA Tourism's Houseboat Holidays booklet for detailed houseboat listings.

Murray Bridge

Pop 16,710

SA's largest river town is a rambling regional hub (the fifth-biggest town in SA) with lots of old pubs, an underutilised riverfront, a huge prison and charms more subtle than obvious.

1Sights & Activities

Murray Bridge Regional GalleryGALLERY

(www.murraybridgegallery.com.au; 27 Sixth St; icon-hoursgifh10am-4pm Tue-Sat, 11-4pm Sun)icon-freeF

This is the town's cultural epicentre, a great little space housing touring and local exhibitions: painting, ceramics, glassware, jewellery and prints. A terrific diversion on a rainy river afternoon.

Monarto ZooZOO

(www.monartozoo.com.au; Princes Hwy, Monarto; adult/child/family $32.50/18/85; icon-hoursgifh9.30am-5pm, last entry 3pm)

About 14km west of Murray Bridge, this excellent open-range zoo is home to Australian and African beasts including cheetahs, rhino, zebras and giraffe (and the photogenic offspring thereof). A hop-on/hop-off bus tour is included in the price; keeper talks happen throughout the day.

Riverglen Marina Kayak HireKAYAKING

(icon-phonegif%08-8532 1986; www.riverglen.com.au; Jervois Rd; per hour kayaks/lifejackets $10/2.50)

Hire a two-person kayak for a DIY river exploration.

Captain Proud Paddle Boat CruisesCRUISE

(icon-phonegif%0466 304 092; www.captainproud.com.au; Wharf Rd; 3hr cruises lunch/dinner $59/79)

Mainstream river cruises with lunch or dinner to boot. Call for times and bookings.

4Sleeping & Eating

Balcony on SixthLODGE

(icon-phonegif%08-8531 1411; www.balconyonsixth.com.au; 6 Sixth Ave; s/d without bathroom $109/159, d/f with bathroom $189/259; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

Upstairs in this reimagined 1918 corner building are 10 surprisingly mod motel-style rooms. Very central, and with a long balcony above the street on which to sit, sip and survey. Two- and three-bedroom apartments also available (from $259).

Murray Bridge HotelPUB

(icon-phonegif%08-8532 2024; www.murraybridgehotel.com.au; 20 Sixth St; mains $16-31; icon-hoursgifhnoon-2pm & 6-8pm; icon-wifigifW)

There are plenty of rambling old pubs around town, but the stately Murray Bridge Hotel is your best bet for a feed, with roasts, sticky BBQ beef ribs and more seafood than steaks. Savvy wine list, too.

8Information

Murray Bridge Visitor Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8339 1142, 1800 442 784; www.murraybridge.sa.gov.au; 3 South Tce; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun)

Stocks the Murray Bridge Accommodation Guide and Dining Guide brochures, and history walk and drive pamphlets. Also has information on river-cruise operators.

Mannum to Waikerie

Clinging to a narrow strip of riverbank 84km east of Adelaide, improbably cute Mannum (population 2170) is the unofficial houseboat capital of the world! The Mary Ann, Australia's first riverboat, was knocked together here in 1853 and made the first paddle-steamer trip up the Murray. The Mannum Visitor Information Centre incorporates the Mannum Dock Museum of River History (icon-phonegif%08-8569 1303, 1300 626 686; www.psmarion.com; 6 Randell St; adult/child $7.50/3.50; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun), featuring info on local Ngarrindjeri Aboriginal communities, an 1876 dry dock and the restored 1897 paddle steamer PS Marion, on which you can occasionally chug around the river.

Breeze Holiday Hire (icon-phonegif%0439 829 964; www.murrayriver.com.au/breeze-holiday-hire-1052) hires out canoes and kayaks (per day $75), dinghies with outboards (per day $95) and fishing gear (per day $15); they can get you waterskiing, too.

From Mannum to Swan Reach, the eastern riverside road often tracks a fair way east of the river, but various lookouts en route help you scan the scene. Around 9km south of Swan Reach, the Murray takes a tight meander called Big Bend, a sweeping river curve with pock-marked, ochre-coloured cliffs.

Sedentary old Swan Reach (population 850), 70km southwest of Waikerie, is a bit of a misnomer: there's an old pub, a museum and plenty of pelicans, but not many swans.

A citrus-growing centre oddly festooned with TV antennas, Waikerie (population 4630) takes its name from the Aboriginal phrase for 'anything that flies'. There's plenty of bird life around here, with 180 species recorded at Gluepot Reserve (icon-phonegif%08-8892 8600, Shell service station 08-8541 2621; www.gluepot.org; Gluepot Rd; cars per day/overnight $5/10; icon-hoursgifh8am-6pm), a mallee scrub area 64km north of Waikerie (off Lunn Rd) that's part of Unesco's Riverland Biosphere Reserve. Before you head off, check with Waikerie's Shell service station on Peake Tce to see if you'll need a gate key.

Also in Waiklerie is Nippy's (www.nippys.com.au; 2 Ian Oliver Dr, Waikerie; icon-hoursgifh8am-4pm Mon-Fri), a local fruit-juice company with factory-front sales.

TTours

Proud MaryCRUISE

(icon-phonegif%08-8406 444; www.proudmary.com.au; 1½-hr tours adult/child $60/42.50)

Lunch cruises on a big boat on the big river, departing Mannum on Mondays. Brush up on your Creedence Clearwater Revival lyrics.

Jester CruisesCRUISE

(icon-phonegif%0419 909 116; www.jestercruises.com.au; 1-/2hr tours per person $16/36, 2hr tours incl lunch $44)

Cruise up and down the river from Mannum on the 40-seat Jester, running most days. Minimum numbers apply.

4Sleeping & Eating

Mannum Caravan ParkCARAVAN PARK

(icon-phonegif%08-8569 1402; www.mannumcaravanpark.com.au; Purnong Rd, Mannum; unpowered/powered sites from $29/32, cabins/villas from $64/132; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

A clean-cut caravan park right on the river next to the Mannum ferry crossing. Ducks and water hens patrol the lawns, and there's a pool table in the games room for when it rains. Lots of shade-giving gums.

Murray River QueenHOSTEL

(icon-phonegif%0410 416 655; www.murrayriverqueen.com; Leonard Norman Dr, Waikerie; dm $30, d without/with bathroom from $55/90; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

This 1974 paddle boat is done with chugging up and down the river: these days it's a floating backpackers on the Waikerie riverfront, with basic bunkrooms – low-ceilinged and a tad dim, but undeniably novel. Also onboard are a bar, pool table, sundeck and Thai cafe (mains $14 to $20). Popular with the fruit-picking set.

icon-top-choiceoWaikerie Hotel MotelHOTEL, MOTEL

(icon-phonegif%08-8541 2999; www.waikeriehotel.com; 2 McCoy St, Waikerie; d $99-149; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

Much of this huge pub burnt down in 2012, two days shy of its 100th birthday! The 19 rebuilt en suite pub rooms upstairs are awesome: fancy linen, glowing bar fridges and big TVs, with leather and granite everywhere. The bistro does pub-grub classics (mains $16 to $35). Slightly cheaper are the updated motel rooms out the back.

River Shack RentalsACCOMMODATION SERVICES

(icon-phonegif%0447 263 549; www.rivershackrentals.com.au; d from $100)

Offers a raft of riverside properties to rent from Mannum heading upstream, sleeping two to 20 bods. Most of them are right on the water: 36 River Lane is a solid Mannum-centric option with room for 10 (from $450). Houseboats also available.

Pretoria HotelPUB FOOD

(icon-phonegif%08-8569 1109; www.pretoriahotel.com.au; 50 Randell St, Mannum; mains $18-32; icon-hoursgifh11.30am-2.30pm & 5.30-8.30pm)

The family-friendly Pretoria (built 1900) has a vast bistro and deck fronting the river, and plates up big steaks, roo medallions, parmas and good seafood. When the 1956 flood swamped the town they kept pouring beer from the 1st-floor balcony!

8Information

Mannum Visitor Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

(icon-phonegif%1300 626 686, 08-8569 1303; www.psmarion.com; 6 Randell St; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun)

Cruise and houseboat bookings, Mannum Historic Walks brochures and the Mannum Dock Museum of River History.

DON'T PAY THE FERRYMAN

As the Murray curls abstractly across eastern SA, roads (on far more linear trajectories) invariably bump into it. Dating back to the late 19th century, a culture of free, 24-hour, winch-driven ferries has evolved to shunt vehicles across the water. Your car is guided onto the punts by burly, bearded, fluoro-clad ferry workers, who lock safety gates into position then shunt you across to the other side. There are 11 ferries in operation, the most useful of which are those at Mannum, Swan Reach and Waikerie. Turn off your headlights if you're waiting for the ferry at night so you don't bedazzle the approaching skipper.

Barmera & Around

On the shallow shores of Lake Bonney (upon which world land-speed record holder Donald Campbell unsuccessfully attempted to break his water-speed record in 1964), snoozy Barmera (population 3020) was once a key town on the overland stock route from NSW. These days the local passion for both kinds of music (country and western) lends a simple optimism to proceedings. Kingston-On-Murray (population 260; aka Kingston OM) is a tiny town en route to Waikerie.

1Sights & Activities

The once ephemeral Lake Bonney has been transformed into a permanent lake ringed by large, drowned red gums, whose stark branches are often festooned with birds. If you're feeling uninhibited, you might like to know that there's a nudist beach at Pelican Point Holiday Park (www.riverland.net.au/pelicanpoint) on the lake's western shore.

There are wildlife reserves with walking trails and camping (per person/car $6/10) at Moorook on the road to Loxton, and Loch Luna across the river from Kingston-On-Murray. Loch Luna backs onto the Overland Corner Hotel. Both reserves have nature trails and are prime spots for birdwatching and canoeing. Self-register camping permits are available at reserve entrances.

There are also walking trails at the Overland Corner Hotel.

icon-top-choiceoBanrock Station Wine & Wetland CentreWINERY

(icon-phonegif%08-8583 0299; www.banrockstation.com.au; Holmes Rd, Kingston OM; tastings free, wetland walks by gold-coin donation; icon-hoursgifh9am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun)icon-sustainableS

Overlooking regenerated, feral-proofed wetlands off the Sturt Hwy at Kingston OM, carbon-neutral Banrock Station Wine & Wetland Centre is a stylish, rammed-earth wine-tasting centre (love the tempranillo). Ther jazzy lunchtime restaurant (mains $20 to $30 − try the Banrock pizza) uses ingredients sourced locally. There are three wetland walks here too: 2.5km, 4.5km and 8km.

Rocky's Hall of Fame Pioneers MuseumMUSEUM

(www.murrayriver.com.au/barmera/rockys-hall-of-fame-pioneers-museum; 4 Pascoe Tce, Barmera; $2; icon-hoursgifh9am-noon Mon, Wed & Thu, 8.30am-noon Fri)

Country music is a big deal in Barmera, with the South Australian Country Music Festival & Awards (www.riverlandcountrymusic.com) happening here in June, and Rocky's Museum blaring sincere rural twangings down the main street from outdoor speakers. Don't miss the 35m Botanical Garden Guitar out the back, inlaid with the handprints of 160 country musos: Slim Dusty to Kasey Chambers and everyone in-between.

4Sleeping & Eating

Discovery Holiday Parks Lake BonneyCARAVAN PARK

(icon-phonegif%08-8588 2234; www.discoveryholidayparks.com.au; Lakeside Ave, Barmera; unpowered/powered sites from $22/31, cabins from $94; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

This keenly managed, facility-rich lakeside park has small beaches (safe swimming), electric barbecues, a camp kitchen, a laundry and plenty of room for kids to run amok. Lots of trees and waterfront camp sites too, plus tandems, canoes and paddleboats for hire.

Barmera Lake Resort MotelMOTEL

(icon-phonegif%08-8588 2555; www.barmeralakeresortmotel.com.au; Lakeside Dr, Barmera; d $80-135, f from $195; icon-acongifaicon-swimgifs)

Right across the road from the lake, this tidy, good-value motel has a pool, in case the lake is looking a bit soupy. Rooms are compact and nothing flash, but they're immaculate and many have lake views.

Overland Corner HotelPUB FOOD

(icon-phonegif%08-8588 7021; www.overlandcornerhotel.com.au; 205 Old Coach Rd; mains $16-28; icon-hoursgifhnoon-2pm Tue-Sun, 6-8pm Fri & Sat)

About 19km northwest of Barmera, this moody 1859 boozer is named after a Murray River bend where drovers used to camp. The pub walls ooze character and the meals are drover sized, plus there's a museum, resident ghosts, a beaut beer garden and four walking trails leading down to the river (pick up the Historic Overland Corner brochure in Barmera).

8Information

Barmera Visitor Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

(icon-phonegif%08-8588 2289; www.barmeratourism.com.au; Barwell Ave, Barmera; icon-hoursgifh9am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat & Sun)

Can help with transport and accommodation bookings. Pick up the Historic Overland Corner and Heritage Walk Barmera walking trail brochures.

Loxton

Pop 3780

Sitting above a broad loop of the slow-roaming Murray, Loxton proclaims itself the 'Garden City of the Riverland'. The vibe here is low-key, agricultural and untouristy, with more tyre distributors, hardware shops and irrigation supply outlets than anything else.

1Sights & Activities

From Loxton you can canoe across to Katarapko Creek in the Murray River National Park (www.environment.sa.gov.au); hire canoes from Loxton Riverfront Caravan Park.

Tree of KnowledgeLANDMARK

(Grant Schubert Dr)

Down by the river near the caravan park, the Tree of Knowledge is marked with flood levels from previous years. The bumper flows of 1931, '73, '74, '75, and 2011 were totally outclassed by the flood-to-end-all-floods of 1956, marked about 4m up the trunk.

Loxton Historic VillageMUSEUM

(www.thevillageloxton.com.au; Allen Hosking Dr; adult/child/family $12.50/6.50/32; icon-hoursgifh10am-4pm)

Down by the river, the mildly kitsch (but nonetheless interesting) Loxton Historic Village is a re-created time warp of 45 dusty, rusty old buildings and old country curios.

4Sleeping

Loxton Riverfront Caravan ParkCARAVAN PARK

(icon-phonegif%1800 887 733, 08-8584 7862; www.lrcp.com.au; 1 Sophie Edington Dr; unpowered/powered sites from $27/32, cabins without/with bathroom from $85/115; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

On the gum-studded Habels Bend, 2km from town, this affable riverside park bills itself as 'The Quiet One'. You can hire a canoe (per hour $15), and there's a free nine-hole golf course (usually sandy, occasionally flooded). Free wi-fi.

Loxton HotelHOTEL, MOTEL

(icon-phonegif%1800 656 686, 08-8584 7266; www.loxtonhotel.com.au; 45 East Tce; hotel s/d from $90/115, motel from $135/150; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

With all profits siphoned back into the Loxton community, this large complex offers immaculate rooms with tasty weekend packages. The original pub dates from 1908, and it has been relentlessly extended. Bistro meals available for breakfast, lunch and dinner (mains $18 to $32). Free wi-fi, too.

8Information

Loxton Visitor Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

(icon-phonegif%1300 869 990, 08-8584 8071; www.loxtontourism.com.au; Bookpurnong Tce, Loxton Roundabout; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat, 10am-4pm Sun)

A friendly place for accommodation, transport and national-park info, plus there's an art gallery and local dried fruits for sale. Look for the History Walk of Loxton brochure.

Berri

Pop 4110

The name Berri derives from the Aboriginal term berri berri, meaning 'big bend in the river', and it was once a busy refuelling stop for wood-burning paddle steamers. These days Berri is an affluent regional hub for both state government and agricultural casual-labour agencies; it's one of the best places to chase down casual harvest jobs.

1Sights & Activities

Road access to the scenic Katarapko Creek section of the Murray River National Park (www.environment.sa.gov.au) is off the Stuart Hwy between Berri and Barmera. This is a beaut spot for bush camping (per car/person $10/6), canoeing and birdwatching.

Riverland Farmers MarketMARKET

(www.riverlandfarmersmarket.org.au; Crawford Tce, Senior Citizens Hall; icon-hoursgifh7.30-11.30am Sat)

All the good stuff that grows around here in one place. A bacon-and-egg roll and some freshly squeezed orange juice will right your rudder.

A Special Place for Jimmy JamesGARDENS

(Riverview Dr; icon-hoursgifh24hr)

A short amble from the visitor centre, this living riverbank memorial honours an Aboriginal tracker who could 'read the bush like a newspaper'. Whimsical tracks and traces are scattered around granite boulders.

River Lands GalleryGALLERY

(www.countryarts.org.au; 23 Wilson St; icon-hoursgifh10am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat)

As the murals and totem poles around the base of Berri Bridge attest, Berri is an arty kinda town. This gallery displays local, Indigenous and travelling painting, sculpture, weaving and digital media exhibitions.

Canoe AdventuresCANOEING

(icon-phonegif%0421 167 645; www.canoeadventure.com.au; canoe hire per half-/full-day $55/65, tours per adult/child half-day $75/50, full-day $120/80)

Canoe hire, guided canoe trips and camping expeditions, ahoy! This outfit conducts all of the above from its Berri base, and can also deliver to most Riverland towns.

BMS ToursCRUISE

(icon-phonegif%0408 282 300; www.houseboatadventure.com.au; tours from $70)

Murray tours from Berri on an Everglades-style airboat called Elka. Call for bookings, times and minimum numbers.

RIVERLAND FRUIT PICKING

The fruit- and grape-growing centres of Berri, Barmera, Waikerie, Loxton and Renmark are always seeking harvest workers. Work is seasonal but there's usually something that needs picking (stone fruit, oranges, grapes, apples…), except for mid-September to mid-October and mid-April to mid-May when things get a bit quiet. If you have a valid working visa and don't mind sweating it out in the fields (for around $100 a day once you get the hang of it), ask the local backpacker hostels about work. Also try the MADEC Labour Hire (icon-phonegif%08-8586 1900; www.madec.edu.au; 8 Ral Ral Ave, Renmark) office in Renmark and the National Harvest Information Service (icon-phonegif%1800 062 332; www.jobsearch.gov.au/harvesttrail).

4Sleeping & Eating

Berri BackpackersHOSTEL

(icon-phonegif%08-8582 3144; www.berribackpackers.com.au; 1081 Old Sturt Hwy; dm per night/week $35/160; icon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

This eclectic hostel is destination numero uno for work-seeking travellers, who chill out in quirky New Age surrounds after a hard day's manual toil. Rooms range from messy dorms to doubles, share houses, a tepee and a yurt − all for the same price. The managers can hook you up with harvest work (call in advance).

Berri HotelHOTEL, MOTEL

(icon-phonegif%1800 088 226, 08-8582 1411; www.berrihotel.com; Riverview Dr; hotel s/d $77/145, motel d/f $155/175; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

This mustard-and-maroon monolith near the river has hotel rooms (shared bathrooms) and a wing of spacious en suite motel rooms. The cavernous bistro serves upmarket pub grub (mains $19 to $33, open for dinner), or there's a cafe for lighter breakfasts and lunches. A slick operation, albeit a bit Vegas. Free wi-fi.

Sprouts CaféCAFE

(icon-phonegif%08-8582 1228; www.sproutscafe.com.au; 28 Wilson St; mains $7-14; icon-hoursgifh8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-1pm Sat)

A cheery new cafe on the hill a few blocks back from the river, with a natty lime-green colour scheme. Serves soups, quiches, burgers, curries, wraps and good coffee. Homemade cakes, scones and chocolate pecan pudding, too.

8Information

Berri Visitor Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

(icon-phonegif%08-8582 5511, 1300 768 582; www.berribarmera.sa.gov.au; Riverview Dr; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat, 10am-2pm Sun)

Right by the river, with brochures, internet, maps, waterproof canoeing guides ($10) and clued-up staff.

Renmark

Pop 7500

Renmark is the first major river town across from the Victorian border, and is about 254km from Adelaide. It's not a pumping tourist destination by any means; it has a relaxed vibe and a grassy waterfront, where you can pick up a houseboat. This is the hub of the Riverland wine region: lurid signs on the roads into town scream 'Buy 6 Get 1 Free!' and 'Bulk port $5/litre!'

On the other side of the river, 4km upstream, is Renmark's low-key satellite town, Paringa.

1Sights & Activities

Chowilla Regional ReserveNATURE RESERVE

(www.environment.sa.gov.au)

Upstream from town, Chowilla is great for bush camping (per person/car $6/10), canoeing and bushwalking. Access is along the north bank from Renmark or along the south bank from Paringa. For more info, contact the Department of Environment, Water & Natural Resources (DEWNR; icon-phonegif%08-8595 2111; 28 Vaughan Tce, Berri) in Berri.

Riverland Leisure Canoe ToursCANOEING

(icon-phonegif%08-8595 5399; www.riverlandcanoes.com.au; half-/full-day tours $75/120)

Slow-paced guided canoe tours on the Murray, departing Paringa, across the river from Renmark. Canoe/kayak hire (per day $65/55) and evening and moonlight tours also available.

4Sleeping & Eating

BIG4 Renmark Riverfront Holiday ParkCARAVAN PARK

(icon-phonegif%1300 664 612, 08-8586 6315; www.big4renmark.com.au; Sturt Hwy; unpowered/powered sites from $30/42, cabins without/with bathroom from $80/104; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

Highlights of this spiffy riverfront park, 1km east of town, include a camp kitchen, canoe and paddleboat hire, and absolute waterfront cabins and powered sites. The newish corrugated-iron cabins are top notch, and look a little 'Riviera' surrounded by scraggy palms. The waterskiing fraternity swarms here during holidays.

Renmark HotelHOTEL, MOTEL

(icon-phonegif%1800 736 627, 08-8586 6755; www.renmarkhotel.com.au; Murray Ave; hotel/motel d from $90/110; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

What a beauty! The sexy art deco curves of Renmark's humongous pub are looking good. Choose from older-style hotel rooms and upmarket motel rooms. On a sultry evening it's hard to beat a cold beer and some grilled barramundi on the balcony at Nanya Bistro (mains $18 to $37, serving noon to 2.30pm and 5.30pm to 9pm). Free wi-fi.

Renmark ClubPUB FOOD

(icon-phonegif%08-8586 6611; www.renmarkclub.com.au; Murray Ave; mains $13-35; icon-hoursgifhnoon-2.30pm & 6-8.30pm)

Right on the river, this old pub/club has been reborn as a shiny mod bistro, serving upmarket pub food (rustic shank pie, brandy-braised beef cheeks) with unbeatable water views. The club also runs the slick new taupe-and-timber Renmark Holiday Apartments (icon-phonegif%1300 855 563; www.renmarkholidayapartments.com.au; 161 Murray Ave; 1-/2-bedroom apt from $195/235; icon-acongifa), across the road.

8Information

Renmark Paringa Visitor Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

(icon-phonegif%1300 661 704, 08-8586 6704; www.visitrenmark.com; 84 Murray Ave; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun)

Has the usual local info, brochures and contacts for backpacker accommodation around town, plus an interpretive centre and bike hire (per half-/full-day $25/40). The recommissioned 1911 paddle steamer PS Industry goes for a 90-minute chug every Sunday (adult/child $20/10).

Limestone Coast

The Limestone Coast − strung-out along southeastern SA between the flat, olive span of the lower Murray River and the Victorian border − is a curiously engaging place. On the highways you can blow across these flatlands in under a day, no sweat, but around here the delight is in the detail. Detour off-road to check out the area's lagoons, surf beaches and sequestered bays. Also on offer are wine regions, photogenic fishing ports and snoozy agricultural towns. And what's below the road is even more amazing: a bizarre subterranean landscape of limestone caves, sinkholes and bottomless crater lakes – a broad, formerly volcanic area that's known as the Kanawinka Geopark (www.kanawinkageopark.org.au).

8Getting There & Away

The Dukes Hwy (Rte A8) is the most direct route between Adelaide and Melbourne (729km), but the coastal Princes Hwy (Rte B1; about 900km) adjacent to the Coorong National Park, is definitely more scenic.

Air

ARegional Express (Rex; www.regionalexpress.com.au) flies daily between Adelaide and Mount Gambier (one way from $170).

Bus

APremier Stateliner (www.premierstateliner.com.au) runs two bus routes − coastal and inland − between Adelaide and Mount Gambier ($80, six hours). From Adelaide along the coast (Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday) via the Coorong you can stop at Meningie ($39, two hours), Robe ($70, 4½ hours) and Beachport ($74, five hours). The inland bus runs daily via Naracoorte ($74, five hours) and Penola ($76, 5¾ hours).

Coorong National Park

The amazing Coorong National Park (www.environment.sa.gov.au) is a fecund lagoon landscape curving along the coast for 145km from Lake Alexandrina towards Kingston SE. A complex series of soaks and salt pans, it's separated from the sea by the chunky dunes of the Younghusband Peninsula. More than 200 species of waterbirds live here. Storm Boy, an endearing film about a young boy's friendship with a pelican (based on the novel by Colin Thiele), was filmed here.

In the 1800s the bountiful resources of the Coorong supported a large Ngarrindjeri population. The Ngarrindjeri are still closely connected to the Coorong, and many still live here.

At the edge of the Coorong on Lake Albert (a large arm of Lake Alexandrina), Meningie (population 900) was established as a minor port in 1866. These 'lower lakes' have returned to life recently in the wake of the 2011 Murray River floods. A momentary reprive from climate change? Time will tell…

The Princes Hwy scuttles through the park, but you can't see much from the road. Instead, take the 13km, unsealed Coorong Scenic Drive. Signed as Seven Mile Rd, it starts 10km southwest of Meningie off the Narrung Rd, and takes you right into the landscape, with its stinky lagoons, sea mists, fishing shanties, pelicans, black swans and wild emus. The road rejoins the Princes Hwy 10km south of Meningie.

With a 4WD you can access Ninety Mile Beach, a well-known surf-fishing spot. The easiest ocean access point is 3km off the Princes Hwy at 42 Mile Crossing, 19km south of Salt Creek – a worthy dirt-road detour.

On the southern fringe of the Coorong is Kingston SE (population 2200; www.kingstonse.com.au). The town is a hotbed of crayfishing: try some nearby at the Cape Jaffa Seafood & Wine Festival (www.capejaffafest.com.au) in January. One of Australia's 'big' tourist attractions, the anatomically correct Larry the Lobster, is a famed resident.

For a watery perspective, try Spirit of the Coorong cruises or Canoe the Coorong, both based in Goolwa on the Fleurieu Peninsula.

4Sleeping & Eating

There are 11 bush camp sites (www.environment.sa.gov.au; per person/car $7/13) in the park; book online via the DEWNR website (www.environment.sa.gov.au/parks). There are also 'honesty boxes' at most of the campgrounds.

icon-top-choiceoDalton on the LakeB&B

(icon-phonegif%0428 737 161; admason@lm.net.au; 30 Narrung Rd, Meningie; d from $145; icon-acongifa)

Generous in spirit and unfailingly clean, this lakeside B&B goes to great lengths to ensure your stay is comfortable. There'll be fresh bread baking when you arrive, jars of homemade biscuits, and bountiful bacon and eggs for breakfast. There's a modern self-contained studio off to one side, and a renovated stone cottage − book either, or both.

Lake Albert Caravan ParkCARAVAN PARK

(icon-phonegif%08-8575 1411; www.lakealbertcaravanpark.com.au; 25 Narrung Rd, Meningie; unpowered/powered sites from $20/30, cabins without/with bathroom from $75/110; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

A breezy park with a beaut aspect overlooking pelican-prone Lake Albert (the best camp sites are right on the lakefront). The four deluxe two-bedroom cabins ($155) are the pick of the cabins.

Cheese Factory RestaurantPUB FOOD

(icon-phonegif%08-8575 1914; www.meningie.com.au; 3 Fiebig Rd, Meningie; mains $15-33; icon-hoursgifh10.30am-3pm Tue-Sun & 5.30-late Wed-Sat)

Lean on the front bar with the locals, or munch into steaks, schnitzels, Coorong mullet or a Coorong wrap (with mullet!) in the cavernous dining room of this converted cheese factory (you might have guessed!). The very lo-fi Meningie Cheese Factory Museum (icon-phonegif%08-8575 1914; www.meningiecheesefactorymuseum.com; 3 Fiebig Rd, Meningie; per person $5; icon-hoursgifh8.30am-5pm) is here, too (butter churns, old typewriters, domestic knick-knackery).

8Information

Meningie Visitor Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

(Coorong Cottage Industries; icon-phonegif%08-8575 1770; www.meningie.com.au; 14 Princes Hwy; icon-hoursgifh10am-4.30pm)

Coorong camping permits and local info.

Robe

Pop 1020

Robe is a cherubic little fishing port that's become a holiday hotspot for Adelaidians and Melburnians alike. The sign saying 'Drain L Outlet' as you roll into town doesn't promise much, but along the main street you'll find quality eateries and boundless accommodation, and there are some magic beaches and lakes around town. Over Christmas and Easter, Robe is packed to the heavens − book waaay in advance.

1Sights & Activities

Heritage-listed buildings dating from the late 1840s to the 1870s litter the streets of Robe, including the upstanding little 1863 Customs House (www.nationaltrustsa.org.au; Royal Circus; adult/child $2/0.50; icon-hoursgifh2-4pm Tue & Sat Feb-Dec, 2-4pm Mon-Sat Jan), now a nautical museum.

Little Dip Conservation Park (www.environment.sa.gov.au) runs along the coast for about 13km south of town. It features a variety of habitats including lakes, wetlands and dunes, and some beaut beaches, Aboriginal middens, walks and camping spots (per person/car $7/13). Access is via Nora Creina Rd.

Robe's small town beach has safe swimming, while Long Beach (2km from town), is good for surfing, sailboarding and lazy days (safe swimming in some sections − ask at the visitors centre). Steve's Place (icon-phonegif%08-8768 2094; stevesplace66@internode.on.net; 26 Victoria St; icon-hoursgifh9.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-1pm Sat, 10am-1pm Sun) rents out boards (per day $40), bodyboards ($20) and wetsuits ($20). It's also the place for info on surfing lessons and the annual Robe Easter Classic in April, SA's longest-running surf comp (since 1968).

4Sleeping

Local rental agents with properties from as low as $80 per night in the off season include Happyshack (icon-phonegif%08-8768 2341, 0403 578 382; www.happyshack.com.au), SAL Real Estate (icon-phonegif%08-8768 2737; www.salrealestate.com.au; 25 Victoria St) and Robe Lifestyle (icon-phonegif%1300 760 629; www.robelifestyle.com.au).

Caledonian InnHOTEL

(icon-phonegif%08-8768 2029; www.caledonian.net.au; 1 Victoria St; d from $75; icon-wifigifW)

This historic inn (1859) has a half-dozen bright and cosy upstairs pub rooms with shared bathrooms – great value. The pub grub is good, too (mains $17 to $40, serving noon to 2pm and 6pm to 8.30pm).

Lakeside Tourist ParkCARAVAN PARK

(icon-phonegif%08-8768 2193; www.lakesiderobe.com.au; 24 Main Rd; unpowered/powered sites from $34/35, cabins/villas from $70/105; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

Right on Lake Fellmongery (a 'fellmonger' is a wool washer, don't you know), this abstractly laid out, rather boutique park has heritage-listed pine trees and reception building (130-year-old former stables), plenty of grass, basic cabins and flashy villas.

Robe Harbour View MotelMOTEL

(icon-phonegif%08-8768 2155; www.robeharbourview.com.au; 2 Sturt St; d/f from $120/155; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

At the quiet end of town (and a five-minute walk from the action), this tidy, well-run motel has namesake harbour views from the best half-dozen rooms at the front. The standard rooms out the back don't have views but are perfectly decent (who needs views when you're asleep?). Expect nice linen, subtle colours and vamped-up bathrooms.

Robe Lakeview Motel & ApartmentsMOTEL

(icon-phonegif%08-8768 2100; www.robelakeviewmotel.com.au; 2 Lakeside Tce; d/2-bedroom apt from $125/240, extra person $15; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

Overlooking the waterskiing mecca Lake Fellmongery, Lakeview is one of Robe's better motels. The decor is on the improve (slowly banishing the late-'90s), the rooms are roomy and immaculately clean, and the barbecue area pumps during summer. Free wi-fi.

Grey MastsB&B

(icon-phonegif%0419 571 003; www.greymasts.com.au; cnr Victoria & Smillie Sts; house incl breakfast from $200)

A lovely, L-shaped, low-ceilinged 1850s stone cottage behind the local bookshop. The two bedrooms sleep four, and there's a compact kitchen, welcoming lounge and flower-filled garden. The Savage family (Mr and Mrs Savage and their 12 sons!) once lived here. Minimum stay of three nights during summer.

5Eating

Union CafeCAFE

(icon-phonegif%08-8768 2627; www.facebook.com; 4/17-19 Victoria St; mains $7-16; icon-hoursgifh8am-4pm; icon-wifigifW)

Always busy, this curiously angled corner cafe has polished-glass fragments in the floor and surf art on the walls. Unionise your hangover with an EBT (egg and bacon on Turkish bread with cheese and house-made tomato sauce), plus good coffee, pancakes, curries, salads and wraps.

Polly's Fish 'n' ChipsFISH & CHIPS

(icon-phonegif%08-8768 2712; www.pollysfishnchips.com.au; Lot 1, Lipson Tce; meals $5-16; icon-hoursgifh10am-8pm Sun-Wed, to 9pm Thu-Sat)

Down on Robe's harbour is this beaut little fish 'n' chipper, cooking up today's catch, straight off the fishing boats. It's not always the fastest of fast food, but quality takes time: sit and study the boats while you wait.

Mahalia CoffeeCAFE

(icon-phonegif%08-8768 2778; www.mahaliacoffee.com.au; 2 Flint St; items $5-9; icon-hoursgifh8.30am-5pm)

Everywhere you go on the Limestone Coast you'll see Mahalia Coffee signs: a marketing success story! Visit the roasting rooms in Robe's industrial back blocks for a double-shot flat white, a croissant, or a white-chocolate and macadamia muffin.

SailsMODERN AUSTRALIAN

(icon-phonegif%08-8768 1954; www.sailsatrobe.com.au; 21 Victoria St; mains $31-38; icon-hoursgifh6pm-late)

Sails is Robe's classiest restaurant, and comes with a big rep for seafood. Not in an undersea mood? Try the kangaroo fillets with beetroot fritters and horseradish, or the lentil empanadas with goats cheese, cauliflower and sweet onion. Lovely ambience; smooth service.

8Information

Robe Visitor Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

(icon-phonegif%1300 367 144, 08-8768 2465; www.robe.com.au; Mundy Tce, Public Library; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat & Sun)

History displays, brochures and free internet. Look for the Scenic Drive, Heritage Drive and A Walk Through History pamphlets.

Beachport

Pop 890

'See and be seen: headlights 24 hours!' say signs around this stretch of the Limestone Coast. Is Beachport desperate to be noticed? A plaintive cry for attention? We like it the way it is: low-key and beachy, with aquamarine surf, the famous 772m-long jetty, staunch stone buildings and rows of Norfolk Island pines. Forget about being seen − your time here will be perfectly anonymous.

1Sights & Activities

Old Wool & Grain Store MuseumMUSEUM

(icon-phonegif%08-8735 8029; www.nationaltrust.org.au/sa; 5 Railway Tce; adult/child/family $5/2/10; icon-hoursgifh10am-4pm)

In a stately National Trust building on the main street you'll find relics from Beachport's whaling and shipping days, rooms decked out in 1870s style, and a display on the local Buandi people.

Beachport Conservation ParkNATURE RESERVE

(www.environment.sa.gov.au)icon-freeF

There are some great walking tracks in this 710-hectare park, sandwiched between the coast and Lake George 2km north of town. Aboriginal middens, sheltered coves, lagoons and bush camping (per person/car $7/13).

Pool of SiloamSWIMMING

(Bowman Scenic Dr)icon-freeF

In the dunes on the western outskirts of town, the pool is great for swimming (and floating: the water is seven times saltier than the sea!). Ask at the vistor information centre for directions.

4Sleeping

Southern Ocean Tourist ParkCARAVAN PARK

(icon-phonegif%08-8735 8153; www.southernoceantouristpark.com.au; Somerville St; unpowered/powered sites from $25/28, cabins $95-160; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

A well-pruned, shady park nooked into the base of a hill in the town centre; new management has really lifted it off the canvas. Facilities include a laundry, covered barbecues, crayfish cookers and a great little playground. The kitchen cabins on the hilltop are lovely.

BompasHOTEL

(icon-phonegif%08-8735 8333; www.bompas.com.au; 3 Railway Tce; d without/with bathroom from $100/125; icon-wifigifW)

In what was Beachport's first pub (1873), Bompas is an all-in-one small hotel and licensed restaurant-cafe. Rooms upstairs are generously sized and strewn with modern art (room No 3 has million-dollar views). Menu offerings downstairs (mains $13 to $32, serving noon to 2pm and 6pm to 8pm) include Chinese stir-fries, lamb shanks and steaks, plus there are quiz nights and decent beers.

8Information

Beachport Visitor Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

(icon-phonegif%08-8735 8029; www.wattlerange.sa.gov.au; Millicent Rd; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun)

An info-packed centre on the road into town. Look for the Beachport's Bowman Scenic Drive and Beachport's Historic Buildings Drive brochures.

Mount Gambier

Pop 25,200

Strung out along the flatlands below an extinct volcano, Mount Gambier is the Limestone Coast's major town and service hub. 'The Mount' sometimes seems a little short on urban virtues, but it's not what's above the streets that makes Mount Gambier special − it's the deep Blue Lake and the caves that worm their way though the limestone beneath the town. Amazing!

1Sights

Blue LakeLAKE

(www.mountgambierpoint.com.au/attractions/blue-lake; John Watson Dr; icon-hoursgifh24hr)icon-freeF

Mount Gambier's big-ticket item is the luminous, 75m-deep lake, which turns an insane hue of blue during summer. Perplexed scientists think it has to do with calcite crystals suspended in the water, which form at a faster rate during the warmer months. Consequently, if you visit between April and November, the lake will look much like any other − a steely grey. Acquifer Tours (icon-phonegif%08-8723 1199; www.aquifertours.com; cnr Bay Rd & John Watson Dr; adult/child/family $9/4/25; icon-hoursgifhtours hourly 9am-5pm Nov-Jan, 9am-2pm Feb-May & Sep-Oct, 9am-noon Jun-Aug) runs hourly tours, taking you down near the lake shore in a glass-panelled lift.

Riddoch Art GalleryGALLERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8723 9566; www.riddochartgallery.org.au; 1 Bay Rd; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm Mon & Wed-Fri, 11am-3pm Sat & Sun)icon-freeF

If Mount Gambier's famed Blue Lake isn't blue, don't feel blue − cheer yourself up at one of Australia's best regional galleries. There are three galleries housing touring and permanent exhibitions, contemporary installations, community displays. In the same 'Main Corner' complex are heritage exhibits and a cinema screening local history flicks. Free tours 11am Thursday.

Cave GardensCAVE

(www.mountgambierpoint.com.au/attractions/cave-gardens; cnr Bay Rd & Watson Tce; icon-hoursgifh24hr)icon-freeF

A 50m-deep sinkhole right in the middle of town, with the odd suicidal shopping trolley at the bottom. You can walk down into it, and watch the nightly Sound & Light Show (from 8.30pm) telling local Aboriginal Dreaming stories.

Engelbrecht CaveCAVE

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8723 5552; www.engelbrechtcave.com.au; Jubilee Hwy W, off Chute St; tours adult/child/family $12.50/8/35; icon-hoursgifhtours hourly 10am-3pm Thu-Tue)

A rubbish dump prior to 1979, this meandering cave system runs beneath Jubilee Hwy and 19 local houses! Tours last 45 minutes and take you down to an underground lake (call for cave-diving info). There's a cafe here, too. Reduced winter hours.

4Sleeping

Old Mount Gambier GaolHOSTEL

(icon-phonegif%08-8723 0032; www.theoldmountgambiergaol.com.au; 25 Margaret St; dm/tw/d/f from $26/60/80/150; icon-wifigifW)

If you can forget that this place was a prison until 1995 (either that or embrace the fact), these refurbished old buildings make for an atmospheric and comfortable stay. There's a backpacker dorm in one building, or you can up the spooky stakes and sleep in a former cell. There's a bar with occasional live bands, too. Free wi-fi.

Blue Lake Holiday ParkCARAVAN PARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1800 676 028, 08-8725 9856; www.bluelake.com.au; Bay Rd; unpowered/powered sites $34/39, cabins/units/bungalows from $99/127/156; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

Adjacent to the Blue Lake, a golf course and walking and cycling tracks, this amiable park has some natty grey-and-white cabins and well-weeded lawns. There are also spiffy contemporary, self-contained 'retreats' (from $192) that sleep four.

Colhurst HouseB&B

(icon-phonegif%08-8723 1309; www.colhursthouse.com.au; 3 Colhurst Pl; d from $170; icon-acongifa)

Most locals don't know about Colhurst − it's up a laneway off a side street (Wyatt St), and you can't really see it from downtown Mt G. It's an 1878 mansion built by Welsh migrants, and manages to be old-fashioned without being overly twee. There's a gorgeous wrap-around balcony upstairs with great views over the rooftops. Cooked breakfast.

Park HotelPUB

(icon-phonegif%08-8725 2430; www.parkhotel.net.au; 163 Commercial St W; d/f from $140/190; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

In Mount Gambier's western wastelands, this old corner pub has spent a fortune renovating its three upstairs rooms. Polished timber floors, double glazing, marble bathrooms and coffee-and-cream colour schemes − a really slick product. Shared kitchen for cooking breakfast (provisions provided).

BarnAPARTMENTS, MOTEL

(icon-phonegif%08-8726 9999; www.barn.com.au; 747 Glenelg River Rd; d/apt/house from $135/190/280; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

A 7km drive out of town on the road to Nelson, the Barn is a complex of fancy new motel-style accommodation options – from doubles to two-bedroom apartments and four-bedroom houses – plus a fab steak restaurant, plating up local beef (mains $33 to $38, serving dinner nightly). Popular with the conference set.

5Eating

icon-top-choiceoMetro Bakery & CafeCAFE

(icon-phonegif%08-8723 3179; www.metrobakeryandcafe.com.au; 13 Commercial St E; mains $8-23; icon-hoursgifh8.30am-5pm Mon-Wed, to late Thu-Sat)

Ask a local where they go for coffee: chances are they'll say 'Metro'. Right in the thick of things on the main drag, it's an efficient cafe with natty black-and-white decor, serving omelettes, focaccias, sandwiches, pastries and meatier mains (try the cider-braised pork belly). There's a wine bar here, too, brimming with Coonawarra cabernets. Book for dinner.

YoeysCAFE, DELI

(www.yoeys.com.au; 32 James St; items $5-15; icon-hoursgifh8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 1.30pm Sat)

This gourmet cafe-providore has shelves full of cakes, muffins, breads, chocolates, pasta and gourmet foodie hampers; a fabulous cheese fridge (rustic Italian goats cheese anyone?); and good coffee. Soups, pies and salads, too. Nice one!

Wild GingerTHAI

(icon-phonegif%08-8723 6264; www.wildginger.com.au; 17 Commercial St W; mains $16-24; icon-hoursgifh11.30am-2pm Tue-Fri, 5.30pm-late Tue-Sun)

Locals recommend this authentic, gilt-fringed Thai nook on the main street, plating-up the likes of citrus-rich larp chicken salad and menacingly good red beef curry. It's a classy operation, with a lot of attention to detail (food presentation, interiors, staff attire etc). Good stuff.

Jens Town Hall HotelPUB FOOD

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8725 1671; www.jenshotel.com; 40 Commercial St E; mains $18-32; icon-hoursgifhnoon-2pm & 6-8pm)

The most palatable place for a beer in the Mount (there are a lot of rambling old pubs here), the 1884 Jens has a vast dining room plating up equally large steaks, pastas, seafood and damn fine minted lamb chops. The lunch specials are winning value ($6 to $12).

8Information

Mount Gambier Visitor Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

(icon-phonegif%1800 087 187, 08-8724 9750; www.mountgambiertourism.com.au; 35 Jubilee Hwy E; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun)

Has details on local sights, activities, transport and accommodation, plus Heritage Walk and Historic Hotels pamphlets and a town history movie. The Lady Nelson Discovery Centre (adult/child/family $4/2/10) is here too, featuring a replica of the historic brig Lady Nelson (which named 192m-high Mount Gambier as it sailed past in 1800) and displays on geology, wetlands and Indigenous history.

Penola & the Coonawarra Wine Region

A rural town on the way up (what a rarity!), Penola (population 1710) is the kind of place where you walk down the main street and three people say 'Hello!' to you before you reach the pub. The town is famous for two things: first, for its association with the Sisters of St Joseph of the Sacred Heart, cofounded in 1867 by Australia's first saint, Mary MacKillop; and secondly, for being smack bang in the middle of the Coonawarra Wine Region.

1Sights

Mary MacKillop Interpretive CentreMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.mackilloppenola.org.au; cnr Portland St & Petticoat Lane; adult/child $5/free; icon-hoursgifh10am-4pm)

The centre occupies a jaunty building with a gregarious entrance pergola (perhaps not as modest as Saint Mary might have liked!). There's oodles of info on Australia's first saint here, plus the Woods MacKillop Schoolhouse, the first school in Australia for children from lower socioeconomic backgrounds.

John Riddoch CentreMUSEUM

(www.wattlerange.sa.gov.au/tourism; 27 Arthur St; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun)icon-freeF

In the visitor centre building, this museum casts a web over local history back to the 1850s, covering the local Pinejunga people and original Penola pastoralist Riddoch, who 'never gave in to misfortune' and was 'steady and persistent'.

Petticoat LaneSTREET

(icon-hoursgifh24hr)icon-freeF

One of Penola's first streets. Most of the original buildings have been razed, but there are still a few old timber-slab houses, red-gum kerbs and gnarly trees to see.

DON'T MISS

COONAWARRA WINERIES

When it comes to spicy cabernet sauvignon, it's just plain foolish to dispute the virtues of the Coonawarra Wine Region (www.coonawarra.org). The terra rossa (red earth) soils here also produce irresistible shiraz and chardonnay.

Balnaves of CoonawarraWINERY

(www.balnaves.com.au; Riddoch Hwy; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Fri, noon-5pm Sat & Sun)

The tasting notes here ooze florid wine speak (dark seaweed, anyone?), but even if your nosing skills aren't that subtle, you'll enjoy the cab sav and chardonnay.

Majella WinesWINERY

(www.majellawines.com.au; Lynn Rd; icon-hoursgifh10am-4.30pm)

The family that runs Majella are fourth-generation Coonawarrans, so they know a thing or two about gutsy reds (love 'The Musician' shiraz cabernet).

Rymill CoonawarraWINERY

(www.rymill.com.au; Riddoch Hwy; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm)

Rymill rocks the local boat by turning out some of the best sauvignon blanc you'll ever taste. The cellar door is fronted by a statue of two duelling steeds − appropriately rebellious.

Wynns Coonawarra EstateWINERY

(www.wynns.com.au; 1 Memorial Dr; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm)

The oldest Coonawarra winery, Wynns’ cellar door dates from 1896 and was built by Penola pioneer John Riddoch. Top-quality shiraz, fragrant riesling and golden chardonnay are the mainstays.

Zema EstateWINERY

(www.zema.com.au; Riddoch Hwy; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun)

A steadfast, traditional winery started by the Zema family in the early '80s. It's a low-key affair with a handmade vibe infusing the shiraz and cab sav.

4Sleeping & Eating

See www.coonawarradiscovery.com for B&B listings.

Many local wineries also have restaurants.

Penola BackpackersHOSTEL

(icon-phonegif%08-8736 6170, 0428 866 700; www.penolabackpackers.com.au; 59 Church St; dm/s/d/f from $35/45/95/140; icon-wifigifW)

In a Spanish Mission–style house on the main street, this five-bedroom backpackers is a timely addition to the Limestone Coast accommodation scene. There's a tidy and clean kitchen, roses and daffodils out the front and a BBQ terrace out the back. Air-con in some rooms. Ask about their beach house in Southend.

Heyward's Royal Oak HotelPUB

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8737 2322; www.heywardshotel.com.au; 31 Church St; s $66, d & tw $99)

This lace-trimmed megalith (1872) is Penola's community hub. The rooms upstairs are nothing flash and share bathrooms, but they're decent bang for your buck. Downstairs is a huge tartan-carpeted dining room (mains $15 to $23, serving 11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to 8pm) serving contemporary pub food and schnitzels as big as your head.

Must@CoonawarraMOTEL

(icon-phonegif%08-8737 3444; www.mustatcoonawarra.com.au; 126 Church St; r from $160; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)icon-sustainableS

Plush Must has sexy roof curves reminiscent of a certain opera venue in Sydney. Accommodation ranges from studios to apartments, with sustainable features aplenty: rainwater showers, double glazing and insulation, solar hot water, natural cleaning products etc. Bike hire $20 per day.

Georgie's CottageB&B

(icon-phonegif%08-8737 3540; www.georgiescottage.com; 1 Riddoch St; d from $200; icon-acongifa)

Feeling romantic? A short stroll from town on the road to Millicent, Georgie's is a cute little stone cottage fronted by blooming roses and hollyhocks. Gourmet provisions include chocolates and sparkling wine, which you may or may not feel like cracking into for breakfast.

diVineCAFE, DELI

(icon-phonegif%08-8737 2122; www.penola.org/listing/divine-cafe; 39 Church St; mains $9-19; icon-hoursgifh9am-4.30pm Mon & Tue, 8am-4.30pm Wed-Sun)

A bright, mod cafe serving baguettes, all-day breakfasts, great coffee and internationally inspired lunches (try the Chinese pork-and-prawn rice paper rolls). Nattering Penolans chew muffins and local cheeses, discussing the nuances of various vintages.

icon-top-choiceoPipers of PenolaMODERN AUSTRALIAN

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-8737 3999; www.pipersofpenola.com.au; 58 Riddoch St; mains $30-37; icon-hoursgifh6-9pmTue-Sat)

A classy, intimate dining room tastefully constructed inside an old Methodist church, with friendly staff and seasonal fare. The menu is studded with ingredients like truffled parsnip, date couscous and mustard 'liaison' − serious gourmet indicators! The prices are getting up there, but so is the quality. Superb wine list with lots of locals (…the beer list could be craftier).

8Information

Penola Visitor Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

(icon-phonegif%1300 045 373, 08-8737 2855; www.wattlerange.sa.gov.au/tourism; 27 Arthur St; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun)

Services the Coonawarra region, with info about local cycling routes and winery tours. The John Riddoch Centre is also here. Pick up the Walk With History brochures.

Naracoorte Caves National Park

About 10km southeast of Naracoorte township, off the Penola road, is the only World Heritage–listed site in SA. The discovery of an ancient fossilised marsupial in these limestone caves raised palaeontological eyebrows around the world, and featured in the BBC's David Attenborough series Life on Earth.

The park visitor centre doubles as the impressive Wonambi Fossil Centre (icon-phonegif%08-8762 2340; www.environment.sa.gov.au/naracoorte; 89 Wonambi Rd; adult/child/family $13/8/36; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm) − a re-creation of the rainforest that covered this area 200,000 years ago. Follow a ramp down past grunting, life-sized reconstructions of extinct animals, including a marsupial lion, a giant echidna, Diprotodon australis (koala meets grizzly bear), and Megalania prisca − 500kg of bad-ass goanna.

The 26 limestone caves here, including Alexandra Cave, Cathedral Cave and Victoria Fossil Cave, have bizarre formations of stalactites and stalagmites. Prospective Bruce Waynes should check out the Bat Cave, from which thousands of endangered southern bentwing bats exit en masse at dusk during summer. You can see the Wet Cave by self-guided tour (adult/child/family $9/5.50/25), but the others require ranger-guided tours. Single-cave tours start at adult/child/family $20/12/55; adventure caving starts at adult/child $60/35. There's also budget accommodation available at Wirreanda Bunkhouse (icon-phonegif%08-8762 2340; www.environment.sa.gov.au/naracoorte; unpowered/powered sites from $27.50/30, dm/f from $22/75), which is often full of school kids but can be booked by travellers.

For more local info and tips on places to stay, contact Naracoorte Visitor Information Centre (icon-phonegif%1800 244 421, 08-8762 1399; www.naracoortelucindale.com; 36 MacDonnell St; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun) in Naracoorte.

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