Balmain
Welcome HotelPUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9810 1323; www.thewelcomehotel.com.au; 91 Evans St, Rozelle; h11.30am-11.30pm Mon-Sat, noon-10pm Sun; g441-445)
If you get lost in the back streets of Rozelle, you might find yourself chowing down in the Welcome Hotel’s acclaimed Italian restaurant, or working your way through the craft beer selection in the palm-shaded courtyard. You might even get to commune with Winston, the resident foxhound ghost.
London HotelPUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9555 1377; www.londonhotel.com.au; 234 Darling St, Balmain; h11am-midnight Mon-Sat, noon-10pm Sun; fBalmain)
The Harbour Bridge views from the London’s long balcony are quintessentially Sydney – about as far from London as you can get. There’s a great range of Oz beers on tap, plus a few quality overseas interlopers.
3Entertainment
Sydney has an eclectic and innovative arts, entertainment and music scene. Pick up the Shortlist section in Friday's Sydney Morning Herald for comprehensive entertainment details. Tickets for most shows can be purchased directly from venues or through the Moshtix (www.moshtix.com.au), Ticketmaster (www.ticketmaster.com.au) or Ticketek (www.ticketek.com.au) ticketing agencies.
Cinema
First-run cinemas abound and most have discounted tickets on a Tuesday. If you're in town over summer, try to attend one of the open-air cinemas – they're great fun.
Dendy Opera QuaysCINEMA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9247 3800; www.dendy.com.au; 2 Circular Quay East; adult/child $20/14; hsessions 9.30am-9.30pm; dCircular Quay)
When the harbour glare and squawking seagulls get too much, follow the scent of popcorn into the dark folds of this plush cinema. Screening first-run, independent world films, it’s augmented by friendly attendants and a cafe/bar.
OpenAir CinemaCINEMA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.stgeorgeopenair.com.au; Mrs Macquaries Rd; tickets $37; hJan & Feb; dCircular Quay)
Right on the harbour, the outdoor three-storey screen here comes with surround sound, sunsets, skyline and swanky food and wine. Most tickets are purchased in advance, but a limited number of tickets go on sale at the door each night at 6.30pm; check the website for details.
IMAXCINEMA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9281 3300; www.imax.com.au; 31 Wheat Rd; adult/child short $23/17, feature $34/24; hsessions 10am-10pm; dTown Hall)
It’s big bucks for a 45-minute movie, but everything about IMAX is big, and this is reputedly the biggest IMAX in the world. The eight-storey screen shimmers with kid-friendly documentaries (sharks, interstellar etc) as well as blockbuster features, many in 3D.
Palace VeronaCINEMA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9360 6099; www.palacecinemas.com.au; 17 Oxford St; adult/child $19/14; hsessions 10am-9pm; W; g380)
This urbane four-screen cinema has a cool cafe and bar, useful for discussing the merits of the arty flick you’ve just seen.
Moonlight CinemaCINEMA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.moonlight.com.au; Belvedere Amphitheatre, cnr Loch & Broome Aves; adult/child $19/15; hsunset Dec-Mar; dBondi Junction)
Take a picnic and join the bats under the stars in magnificent Centennial Park; enter via the Woollahra Gate on Oxford St. A mix of new-release blockbuster, art-house and classic films is screened.
Bondi Openair CinemaCINEMA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.openaircinemas.com.au; Dolphin Lawn, next to Bondi Pavilion; tickets $15-45; hJan & Feb)
Enjoy open-air screenings by the sea, with live bands providing prescreening entertainment. Online bookings recommended.
Hayden Orpheum Picture PalaceCINEMA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9908 4344; www.orpheum.com.au; 380 Military Rd, Cremorne; adult/child $20/15; hsessions 10.30am-8.50pm; g244)
Return to cinema’s golden age at this fab art deco gem (1935). It still has its original Wurlitzer organ, which gets a workout at special events.
Classical Music
oSydney Opera HousePERFORMING ARTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9250 7777; www.sydneyoperahouse.com; Bennelong Point; dCircular Quay)
The glamorous jewel at the heart of Australian performance, Sydney's famous opera house has five main stages. Opera may have star billing, but theatre, comedy, music and dance are all performed here.
oCity Recital HallCLASSICAL MUSIC
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-8256 2222; www.cityrecitalhall.com; 2 Angel Pl; hbox office 9am-5pm Mon-Fri; dMartin Pl)
Based on the classic configuration of the 19th-century European concert hall, this custom-built 1200-seat venue boasts near-perfect acoustics. Catch top-flight companies such as Musica Viva, the Australian Brandenburg Orchestra and the Australian Chamber Orchestra here.
Sydney Conservatorium of MusicCLASSICAL MUSIC
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9351 1222; www.music.usyd.edu.au; Conservatorium Rd; dCircular Quay)
This historic venue showcases the talents of its students and their teachers. Choral, jazz, operatic and chamber concerts happen from March to November, along with free lunchtime recitals on Wednesday at 1.10pm.
Dance
Sydney Dance CompanyDANCE
(SDC; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9221 4811; www.sydneydancecompany.com; Pier 4/5, 15 Hickson Rd; dWynyard)
Australia’s number-one contemporary-dance company has been staging wildly modern, sexy, sometimes shocking works for nearly 40 years. Performances are usually held across the street at the Roslyn Packer Theatre, or at Carriageworks.
Bangarra Dance TheatreDANCE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9251 5333; www.bangarra.com.au; Pier 4/5, 15 Hickson Rd; tickets $30-93; dWynyard)
Bangarra is hailed as Australia’s finest Aboriginal performance company. Artistic director Stephen Page conjures a fusion of contemporary themes, Indigenous traditions and Western technique. When not touring internationally, the company performs at the Opera House or at their own small theatre in Walsh Bay.
Live Music, Cabaret & Comedy
Oxford Art FactoryLIVE MUSIC
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.oxfordartfactory.com; 38-46 Oxford St; dMuseum)
Indie kids party against an arty backdrop at this two-room multipurpose venue modelled on Andy Warhol's NYC creative base. There's a gallery, a bar and a performance space that often hosts international acts and DJs. Check the website for what's on.
Newtown Social ClubLIVE MUSIC
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %1300 724 867; www.newtownsocialclub.com; 387 King St; h7pm-midnight Tue-Thu, noon-2am Fri & Sat, noon-10pm Sun; W; dNewtown)
The legendary Sandringham Hotel (aka the 'Sando', where God used to drink, according to local band The Whitlams) may have changed names but if anything it has heightened its commitment to live music. Gigs range from local bands on the make to indie luminaries such as Gruff Rhys and Stephen Malkmus.
VanguardLIVE MUSIC
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9557 7992; www.thevanguard.com.au; 42 King St; dMacdonaldtown)
Intimate 1920s-themed Vanguard stages live music most nights (including some well-known names), as well as burlesque, comedy and classic-movie screenings. Most seats are reserved for dinner-and-show diners.
BasementLIVE MUSIC
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9251 2797; www.thebasement.com.au; 7 Macquarie Pl; admission $8-60; dCircular Quay)
Once solely a jazz venue, the Basement now hosts international and local musicians working in many disciplines and genres. Dinner-and-show tickets net you a table by the stage, guaranteeing a better view than the standing-only area by the bar.
El RoccoJAZZ, COMEDY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.elrocco.com.au; 154 Brougham St; h5pm-midnight Mon-Sat, 5-10pm Sun; dKings Cross)
Between 1955 and 1969 this was the city’s premier finger-snappin’, beret-wearing boho cellar bar, hosting performances by Frank Sinatra and Sarah Vaughan. Those heady days are long gone but live jazz is back on the agenda, along with the Happy Endings Comedy Club (www.happyendingscomedyclub.com.au) on Saturdays.
Camelot LoungeLIVE MUSIC
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.camelotlounge.wordpress.com; 19 Marrickville Rd; dSydenham)
In ever-increasingly-hip Marrickville, this eclectic little venue hosts jazz, world music, blues, folk, comedy, cabaret and all manner of other weird stuff.
SlideCABARET
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-8915 1899; www.slide.com.au; 41 Oxford St; h7pm-late Wed-Sat; gMuseum)
Slide inside a gorgeously converted banking chamber for dinner and a sexy show: cabaret, circus, burlesque etc.
Spectator Sports
On any given Sydney weekend there'll be all manner of balls being hurled, kicked and batted around. Sydneysiders are passionate about the National Rugby League (www.nrl.com), the season kicking off in March and culminating in the grand final in early October.
Over the same period, hometown favourites the Sydney Swans and Greater Western Sydney Giants play in the Australian Football League (www.afl.com.au).
Sydney Cricket GroundSPECTATOR SPORT
(SCG; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9360 6601; www.sydneycricketground.com.au; Driver Ave; g373-377)
During the cricket season (October to March), the stately SCG is the venue for sparsely attended interstate cricket matches (featuring the NSW Blues), and sell-out international five-day test, one-day and 20/20 limited-over matches. As the cricket season ends the Australian Rules (AFL) season starts and the stadium becomes a blur of red-and-white-clad Sydney Swans (www.sydneyswans.com.au) fans.
oSydney Football StadiumSPECTATOR SPORT
(Allianz Stadium; GOOGLE MAP ; www.allianzstadium.com.au; Moore Park Rd; g373-377)
It's now officially named after an insurance company, but these naming rights change periodically, so we'll stick with the untainted-by-sponsorship moniker for this elegant 45,500-capacity stadium. It's home to local heroes the Sydney Roosters rugby league team (www.roosters.com.au), the NSW Waratahs rugby union team (www.waratahs.com.au) and the Sydney FC A-league football (soccer) team (www.sydneyfc.com).
All of these teams have passionate fans (possibly the most vocal are the crazies in the Roosters' 'chook pen'), so a home game can be a lot of fun. Book through Ticketek (%132 849; www.ticketek.com.au).
Royal Randwick RacecourseHORSE RACING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.australianturfclub.com.au; Alison Rd; g339)
The action at Sydney's most famous racecourse peaks in April with the $4 million Queen Elizabeth Stakes; check the online calendar for race days.
Theatre
Sydney Theatre CompanyTHEATRE
(STC; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9250 1777; www.sydneytheatre.com.au; Pier 4/5, 15 Hickson Rd; hbox office 9am-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-8.30pm Sat, 2hr before show Sun; dWynyard)
Established in 1978, the STC is Sydney theatre’s top dog and has played an important part in the careers of many famous Australian actors (especially Cate Blanchett, who was co-artistic director from 2008 to 2013). Tours of the company's Wharf and Roslyn Packer theatres are held at 10.30am every Tuesday ($10). Performances are also staged at the Opera House.
oBelvoirTHEATRE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9699 3444; www.belvoir.com.au; 25 Belvoir St; dCentral)
In a quiet corner of Surry Hills, this intimate venue is the home of an often-experimental and consistently excellent theatre company. Shows sometimes feature big stars.
oState TheatreTHEATRE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9373 6655; www.statetheatre.com.au; 49 Market St; dSt James)
The beautiful 2000-seat State Theatre is a lavish, gilt-ridden, chandelier-dangling palace. It hosts the Sydney Film Festival, concerts, comedy, opera, musicals and the odd celebrity chef.
Capitol TheatreTHEATRE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %1300 558 878; www.capitoltheatre.com.au; 13 Campbell St; dCentral)
Lavishly restored, this large city theatre is home to long-running musicals (Wicked, Les Miserables, Matilda) and the occasional ballet or big-name concert.
Sydney LyricTHEATRE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9509 3600; www.sydneylyric.com.au; The Star, Pirrama Rd; jThe Star)
This 2000-seat theatre within the casino stages big-name musicals and the occasional concert.
Ensemble TheatreTHEATRE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9929 0644; www.ensemble.com.au; 78 McDougall St, Kirribilli; fNorth Sydney)
The long-running Ensemble presents mainstream theatre by overseas and Australian playwrights (think David Williamson and David Hare), generally with well-known Australian actors.
Monkey Baa Theatre CompanyTHEATRE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-8624 9340; www.monkeybaa.com.au; 1 Harbour St; tickets $25; dTown Hall)
If you can drag them away from the neighbouring playground, bring your budding culture vultures here to watch Australian children's books come to life. This energetic company devises and stages their own adaptations.
7Shopping
Sydneysiders head cityward – particularly to Pitt St Mall – if they have something special to buy or when serious retail therapy is required. Paddington has traditionally been Sydney’s premier fashion enclave, although it’s now facing stiff competition from the giant Westfield malls in Pitt St and Bondi Junction. Newtown’s King St has come into its own as one of the city’s most interesting strips, especially for vintage boutiques and bookshops.
Serious shoppers should consider downloading the suburb-by-suburb shopping guides produced by Urban Walkabout (www.urbanwalkabout.com/sydney); free printed versions of the maps are also available at tourist information offices and booths across the city.
SYDNEY'S WEEKEND MARKETS
Sydneysiders enjoy going to local markets nearly as much as going to the beach (and that's really saying something). Many inner-city suburbs host weekend markets in the grounds of local schools and churches, and these sell everything from organic food to original designer clothing. You'll inevitably encounter some tragic hippy paraphernalia, appalling art and overpriced tourist tat, but there are often exciting purchases to be made, too.
Glebe MarketsMARKET
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.glebemarkets.com.au; Glebe Public School, cnr Glebe Point Rd & Derby Pl; h10am-4pm Sat; jGlebe)
The best of the west; Sydney's dreadlocked, shoeless, inner-city contingent beats a course to this crowded hippy-ish market.
Paddington MarketsMARKET
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.paddingtonmarkets.com.au; 395 Oxford St; h10am-4pm Sat; g380)
Originating in the 1970s, when they were drenched in the scent of patchouli oil, these markets are considerably more mainstream these days. They're still worth exploring for their new and vintage clothing, crafts and jewellery. Expect a crush.
Bondi MarketsMARKET
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.bondimarkets.com.au; Bondi Beach Public School, Campbell Pde; h9am-1pm Sat, 10am-4pm Sun; g380-382)
On Sundays, when the kids are at the beach, their school fills up with Bondi characters rummaging through tie-dyed secondhand clothes, original fashion, books, beads, earrings, aromatherapy oils, candles, old records and more. There's a farmers' market here on Saturdays.
Eveleigh Farmers' MarketMARKET
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.eveleighmarket.com.au; Carriageworks, 245 Wilson St; h8am-1pm Sat; dRedfern)
Over 70 regular stallholders sell their goodies at Sydney's best farmers' market, held in a heritage-listed railway workshop. Food and coffee stands do a brisk business; celebrity chef Kylie Kwong can often be spotted cooking up a storm.
The Rocks & Circular Quay
Australian Wine CentreWINE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.australianwinecentre.com; Goldfields House, 1 Alfred St; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 6.30pm Sun; dCircular Quay)
This multilingual basement store is packed with quality Australian wine, beer and spirits. Smaller producers are well represented, along with a staggering range of prestigious Penfolds Grange wines. International shipping can be arranged.
Opal MindedJEWELLERY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.opalminded.com; 55 George St; h9am-6.30pm; dCircular Quay)
As good a place as any to stock up on that quintessential piece of Aussie bling.
Gannon HouseART
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9251 4474; www.gannonhousegallery.com; 45 Argyle St; dCircular Quay)
Specialising in contemporary Australian and Aboriginal art, Gannon House purchases works directly from artists and Aboriginal communities. You'll find the work of prominent artists such as Gloria Petyarre here, alongside lesser-known names.
City Centre
oWestfield SydneyMALL
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.westfield.com.au/sydney; 188 Pitt St Mall; h9.30am-6.30pm Fri-Wed, to 9pm Thu; dSt James)
The city's most glamorous shopping mall is a bafflingly large complex gobbling up Sydney Tower and a fair chunk of Pitt St Mall. The 5th-floor food court is excellent.
David JonesDEPARTMENT STORE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.davidjones.com.au; 86-108 Castlereagh St; h9.30am-7pm Sat-Wed, to 9pm Thu & Fri; dSt James)
DJs is Sydney’s premier department store, occupying two enormous city buildings. The Castlereagh St store has women's and children's clothing; Market St has menswear, electrical goods and a high-brow food court. David Jones also takes up a sizeable chunk of Westfield Bondi Junction ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9947 8000; www.westfield.com.au; 500 Oxford St; h9.30am-6pm Fri-Wed, to 9pm Thu; dBondi Junction).
oStrand ArcadeSHOPPING CENTRE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.strandarcade.com.au; 412 George St; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Wed & Fri, to 8pm Thu, 9am-4pm Sat, 11am-4pm Sun; dSt James)
Constructed in 1891, the Strand rivals the QVB in the ornateness stakes. The three floors of designer fashions, Australiana and old-world coffee shops will make your short-cut through here considerably longer.
oQueen Victoria BuildingSHOPPING CENTRE
(QVB; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.qvb.com.au; 455 George St; h11am-5pm Sun, 9am-6pm Mon-Wed, Fri & Sat, 9am-9pm Thu; dTown Hall)
The magnificent QVB takes up a whole block and boasts nearly 200 shops on five levels. It’s a High Victorian masterpiece – without doubt Sydney’s most beautiful shopping centre.
KinokuniyaBOOKS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9262 7996; www.kinokuniya.com; L2, The Galeries, 500 George St; h10am-7pm Fri-Wed, 10am-9pm Thu; dTown Hall)
This outpost of the Japanese chain is the largest bookshop in Sydney, with over 300,000 titles. The comics section is a magnet for geeky teens – the imported Chinese, Japanese and European magazine section isn’t. There’s a cool little cafe here, too.
Darlinghurst
ArteryARTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9380 8234; www.artery.com.au; 221 Darlinghurst Rd; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat & Sun; dKings Cross)
Step into a world of mesmerising dots and swirls at this small gallery devoted to Aboriginal art. Artery's motto is 'ethical, contemporary, affordable', and while large canvases by more established artists cost in the thousands, small, unstretched canvases start at around $35.
Blue SpinachFASHION
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9331 3904; www.bluespinach.com.au; 348 Liverpool St; dKings Cross)
High-end consignment clothing for penny-pinching label lovers of all genders. If you can make it beyond the shocking blue facade (shocking doesn’t really do it justice), you’ll find Paul Smith and Gucci at (relatively) bargain prices.
C’s FlashbackVINTAGE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9331 7833; www.csflashback.com.au; 316 Crown St; h10am-6pm Fri-Wed, to 8pm Thu; dMuseum)
Looking for a secondhand Hawaiian shirt, some beat-up cowboy boots or a little sequinned 1940s hat like the Queen wears? We’re not sure exactly what C was on, but her flashback men’s and women’s threads are pretty trippy.
Paddington & Woollahra
PoepkeFASHION
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.poepke.com; 47 William St; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun; g380)
One of Paddington's more interesting women's boutiques, stocking a curated range from Australian and international designers.
Corner ShopFASHION
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9380 9828; www.thecornershop.com.au; 43 William St; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun; g380)
This treasure trove of a boutique is stocked with a healthy mix of casual and high-end women's clothing from Australian and international designers, with some jewellery for good measure.
ArielBOOKS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9332 4581; www.arielbooks.com.au; 42 Oxford St; h9am-10.30pm; g380)
Furtive artists, architects and students roam Ariel’s aisles late into the evening. ‘Underculture’ is the thrust here – glossy art, film, fashion and design books, along with kids’ books, travel guides and a queer-lit section.
Newtown & Around
Quick Brown FoxCLOTHING, ACCESSORIES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9519 6622; www.quickbrownfox.com.au; 231 King St; h10.30am-6.30pm; dNewtown)
No lazy dogs here – just plenty of fast-looking, tanned vixens snapping up funky vintage fashions that veer from ‘hello, boys!’ cuteness to indecent-exposure sexiness. Catchy patterns and fabrics, chic boots and bags.
Better Read Than DeadBOOKS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9557 8700; www.betterread.com.au; 265 King St; h9.30am-9pm; dNewtown)
This just might be our favourite Sydney bookshop, and not just because of the pithy name and the great selection of Lonely Planet titles. Nobody seems to mind if you waste hours perusing the beautifully presented aisles, stacked with high-, middle- and deliciously low-brow reading materials.
ReclaimHOMEWARES, GIFTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.reclaim.net.au; 356 King St; h10am-6pm; dNewtown)
Absolutely the place to shop for Iggy Pop throw cushions, antique tea sets, quirky homewares and funky gifts. It's all put together by local singer Monica Trapaga (of Monica and the Moochers).
Faster PussycatCLOTHING, ACCESSORIES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9519 1744; www.fasterpussycatonline.com; 431a King St; h11am-6pm; dNewtown)
Inspired by ‘trash pop culture, hot rods and rock and roll’, this cool cat coughs up clothing and accessories for all genders and ages (including baby punkwear) in several shades of Newtown black.
8Information
Emergency
In the event of an emergency, call 000 to contact the police, ambulance and fire service. For a searchable list of all police stations in NSW, go to www.police.nsw.gov.au.
LifelineEMERGENCY
(%13 11 14; www.lifelinesydney.org; h24hr)
Round-the-clock phone counselling services, including suicide prevention.
NSW Rape CrisisEMERGENCY
(%1800 424 017; www.nswrapecrisis.com.au; h24hr)
Offers counselling, 24 hours a day.
Internet Access
The vast majority of hotels and hostels offer their guests internet access, although you'll still have to pay for it in many hostels and top hotels. Libraries are a good bet for free wi-fi and bookable terminals.
Medical Services
Kings Cross ClinicDOCTOR
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9358 3066; www.kingscrossclinic.com.au; 13 Springfield Ave; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat; dKings Cross)
General and travel-related medical services.
Royal Prince Alfred HospitalHOSPITAL
(RPA; GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9515 6111; www.sswahs.nsw.gov.au/rpa; Missenden Rd, Camperdown; dMacdonaldtown)
St Vincent's HospitalHOSPITAL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-8382 1111; www.stvincents.com.au; 390 Victoria St; dKings Cross)
Sydney HospitalHOSPITAL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9382 7111; www.seslhd.health.nsw.gov.au/SHSEH; 8 Macquarie St; dMartin Pacel)
Money
There are plenty of ATMs throughout Sydney. Foreign-exchange offices are found in Kings Cross and around Chinatown, Circular Quay and Central Station.
Tourist Information
Sydney Visitor Centres Have a wide range of brochures, and staff can book accommodation, tours and attractions. Branches in The Rocks ( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-8273 0000; www.bestof.com.au; cnr Argyle & Playfair Sts; dCircular Quay) and Darling Harbour ( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-8273 0000; www.bestof.com.au; Palm Grove, behind IMAX; h9.30am-5.30pm; dTown Hall).
City Host Information Kiosks Branches in Circular Quay ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au; cnr Pitt & Alfred Sts; h9am-5pm; dCircular Quay), Haymarket ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au; Dixon St; h11am-7pm; dTown Hall), Kings Cross ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au; cnr Darlinghurst Rd & Springfield Ave; h9am-5pm; dKings Cross) and Town Hall ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au; George St; h9am-5pm; dTown Hall).
Hello ManlyTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9976 1430; www.hellomanly.com.au; Manly Wharf; h9am-5pm; fManly)
This helpful visitors centre, just outside the ferry wharf and alongside the bus interchange, has free pamphlets covering the Manly Scenic Walkway and other Manly attractions, plus loads of local bus information.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Also known as Kingsford Smith Airport, Sydney Airport has separate international (T1) and domestic (T2 and T3) sections, 4km apart on either side of the runway. Each has left-luggage services, ATMs, currency exchange bureaux and rental-car counters.
Airlines flying to other Australian destinations include:
AJetstar (www.jetstar.com.au) Flies to Ballina Byron Bay, Gold Coast, Brisbane, Sunshine Coast, Hamilton Island, Townsville, Cairns, Melbourne, Hobart, Launceston, Adelaide, Uluru, Darwin and Perth.
AQantas (www.qantas.com.au) Flies to Canberra, Wagga Wagga, Albury, Dubbo, Tamworth, Moree, Port Macquarie, Armidale, Coffs Harbour, Lord Howe Island, Gold Coast, Brisbane, Toowoomba, Fraser Coast, Hamilton Island, Cairns, Darwin, Alice Springs, Broome, Karratha, Perth, Adelaide, Melbourne and Hobart.
ARegional Express (www.rex.com.au) Flies to Newcastle, Taree, Ballina Byron Bay, Grafton, Lismore, Armidale, Dubbo, Parkes, Orange, Bathurst, Griffith, Wagga Wagga, Albury, Merimbula, Broken Hill and Mildura.
ATigerair (www.tigerair.com/au/en) Flies to Coffs Harbour, Gold Coast, Brisbane, Mackay, Whitsunday Coast, Cairns, Perth, Adelaide and Melbourne.
AVirgin Australia (www.virginaustralia.com) Flies to Canberra, Albury, Port Macquarie, Coffs Harbour, Ballina Byron Bay, Gold Coast, Brisbane, Sunshine Coast, Hervey Bay, Mackay, Hamilton Island, Townsville, Cairns, Darwin, Uluru, Perth, Adelaide, Melbourne, Launceston and Hobart.
Bus
Long-distance bus services arrive at Sydney Coach Terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9281 9366; www.sydneycoachterminal.com.au; Eddy Ave; h6am-6pm; dCentral), underneath Central Station. The major operators are:
FireflyBUS
(%1300 730 740; www.fireflyexpress.com.au)
Runs Adelaide to Sydney via Melbourne and Canberra.
Premier Motor ServiceBUS
(%133 410; www.premierms.com.au)
Runs Cairns to Melbourne, via Brisbane, Gold Coast and Sydney.
Train
NSW TrainLink (13 22 32; www.nswtrainlink.info) connects Sydney's Central station with destinations including Melbourne (from $70, 11 hours), Broken Hill (from $70, 13½ hours), Canberra (from $40, 4¼ hours), Coffs Harbour (from $67, nine hours) and Brisbane (from $70, 14¼ hours).
Sydney's local train network, run by Sydney Trains (13 15 00; www.sydneytrains.info) includes regular direct services to NSW destinations such as Kiama (2¼ hours), Wollongong (1½ hours), Katoomba (two hours), Gosford (1½ hours) and Newcastle's Hamilton station (1½ hours). For all of these services, peak/off-peak fares are $8.30/5.81.
The famous Indian Pacific (1800 703 357; www.greatsouthernrail.com.au) heads clear across the continent from Sydney to Perth.
8Getting Around
To/From the Airport
Bus Services from the airport are limited but there is a direct bus to Bondi Junction (routes 400 & 410, $4.50, 1¼ hours) which departs roughly every 20 minutes.
Shuttle Airport shuttles head to hotels and hostels in the city centre, and some reach surrounding suburbs and beach destinations. Operators include Sydney Airporter (02-9666 9988; www.kst.com.au), Super Shuttle (1300 018 460; www.signaturelimousinessydney.com.au), Airport Shuttle North (1300 505 100; www.airportshuttlenorth.com) and Manly Express (02-8068 8473; www.manlyexpress.com.au).
Taxi Fares from the airport are approximately $45 to $55 to the city centre, $55 to $65 to North Sydney and $90 to $100 to Manly.
Train Trains from both the domestic and international terminals, connecting into the main train network, are run by Airport Link (www.airportlink.com.au; adult/child $18/14; h4.30am-12.30am). They’re frequent (every 10 minutes), quick (13 minutes to Central) and easy to use, but airport tickets are charged at a hefty premium. If there are a few of you it’s cheaper to catch a cab. Another alternative is to catch the bus to Rockdale station (routes 400 & 410, $3.50, 12 minutes) and then catch the regular train to Central ($3, 15 minutes).
Car & Motorcycle
Avoid driving in central Sydney if you can: there’s a confusing one-way street system, parking’s elusive and expensive (even at hotels), and parking inspectors, tolls and tow-away zones proliferate. Conversely, a car is handy for accessing Sydney’s outer reaches (particularly the beaches) and for day trips.
All of the major international car rental companies have offices at Sydney Airport and other locations. The main city hub for rental cars is William St, Darlinghurst. Reliable local operators include Bayswater Car Rental (02-9360 3622; www.bayswatercarrental.com.au), cut-price Ace Rentals (02-8338 1055; www.acerentalcars.com.au) and, for campervans, Jucy Rentals (1800 150 850; www.jucy.com.au).
There are hefty tolls on most of Sydney’s motorways and major links (including the Harbour Bridge, Harbour Tunnel, Cross City Tunnel and Eastern Distributor). The tolling system is electronic, meaning that it’s up to you to organise an electronic tag or visitors’ pass through any of the following websites: www.roam.com.au, www.roamexpress.com.au or www.myetoll.com.au. Note that some car-hire companies now supply etags.
The Sydney Travellers Car Market is based in the Kings Cross Car Park off Ward Ave. This provides useful information about the paperwork needed to buy, sell and register vehicles. Sellers can leave their vehicles in the market for one week for free (after which it's $60 per week). Vehicles are only permitted to be left overnight between Monday and Thursday at no cost; usual car-park charges apply from Friday to Sunday. Note that you're not permitted to sleep in the vehicle while it is in the car park. It is also illegal to sell vehicles on the street anywhere in central Sydney.
Public Transport
ATransport NSW (13 15 00; www.transportnsw.info) is the body that coordinates all of the state-run bus, ferry, train and light rail services. You’ll find a useful journey planner on their website.
Sydneysiders love to complain about their public transport system, but visitors should find it surprisingly easy to navigate. The train system is the linchpin, with lines radiating out from Central station. Ferries head all around the harbour and up the river to Parramatta; light rail is useful for Pyrmont and Glebe; and buses are particularly useful for getting to the beaches.
Bus
ASydney Buses (13 15 00; www.sydneybuses.info) has an extensive network, operating from around 5am to midnight when less frequent NightRide services commence. Bus routes starting with an X indicate limited-stop express routes; those with an L have limited stops.
You can buy a ticket from the driver on most services ($2.40 to $4.70, depending on the length of the journey), but you’ll need an Opal card or prepaid paper ticket (available at newsagents, convenience stores and supermarkets) for prepay-only services. Fares are based on 'sections', which are roughly 1.6km in length. Prepaid tickets need to be dunked into the green ticket machines as you enter the bus. If you’ll be catching buses a lot (but not trains or ferries), consider a prepaid 10-ride TravelTen ticket (sections 1-2/3-5/6+ $20/31/38).
Route 555 is a free service which heads up and down George St, from Circular Quay to Central Station.
Ferry
Most Sydney Ferries (13 15 00; www.transportnsw.info) operate between 6am and midnight. The standard single fare for most harbour destinations is $6.20; boats to Manly, Sydney Olympic Park and Parramatta cost $7.60. If you’re heading to Taronga Zoo by ferry, consider the all-inclusive ZooPass (adult/child $53/27).
Private companies Manly Fast Ferry (%02-9583 1199; www.manlyfastferry.com.au; adult/child $9/6) and Sydney Fast Ferries (%02-9818 6000; www.sydneyfastferries.com.au; adult/child $9.75/7.50; W) both offer boats that blast from Circular Quay to Manly in 18 minutes.
Light Rail
Trams run between Central Station and Dulwich Hill, stopping in Chinatown, Darling Harbour, The Star casino, Sydney Fish Market and Glebe en route.
Tickets cost $3.80 for a short journey and $4.80 for a longer one, and can be purchased from the conductor.
Train
Sydney Trains (13 15 00; www.sydneytrains.info) has a large suburban railway web with relatively frequent services, although there are no lines to the northern or eastern beaches.
Trains run from around 5am to 1am – check timetables for your line.
A short inner-city one-way trip costs $4.
If you don't have an Opal card, purchase your ticket in advance from an automated machine or a counter at the bigger stations.
INTEGRATED TICKETS & PASSES
Although you can still buy individual tickets for most public transport services, a smart-card system called Opal (www.opal.com.au) also operates.
The card can be obtained (for free) and loaded with credit at numerous newsagencies and convenience stores across Sydney. When commencing a journey you’ll need to touch the card to an electronic reader, located at train station gates, near the doors of buses and light rail carriages, and at the ferry wharves. You then need to touch a reader when you complete your journey so that the system can deduct the correct fare. Advantages include cheaper single journeys, daily charges capped at $15 ($2.50 on Sundays) and free travel after taking any eight journeys in a week (it resets itself every Monday). You can use the Opal card at the airport train stations, but none of the aforementioned bonuses apply.
Paper-based MyMulti passes can be purchased at ferry and train ticket offices and many newsagencies and convenience stores, but you’re much better off getting an Opal card instead. For instance, the MyMulti Day Pass costs $24 as opposed to the $15 Opal cap.
Taxi
Metered taxis are easy to flag down in the central city and inner suburbs, except for at changeover times (3pm and 3am).
Fares are regulated, so all companies charge the same. Flagfall is $3.50, with a $2.50 ‘night owl surcharge’ after 10pm on a Friday and Saturday until 6am the following morning. The fare thereafter is $2.14 per kilometre, with an additional surcharge of 20% between 10pm and 6am nightly. There’s also a $2.40 fee for bookings.
The UberX ride-sharing app operates in Sydney but the state government maintains that it is illegal for drivers to offer the service.
Major taxi companies include:
Water Taxi
Water taxis are a fast way to shunt around the harbour (Circular Quay to Watsons Bay in as little as 15 minutes). Companies will quote on any pick-up point within the harbour and the river, including private jetties, islands and other boats.
Aussie Water TaxisFERRY
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-9211 7730; www.aussiewatertaxis.com; Cockle Bay Wharf)
The smallest seats 16 passengers and can be rented per hour or point to point.
H2O Maxi TaxisFERRY
(%1300 420 829; www.h2owatertaxis.com.au)
Smallest seats 21 people. Harbour Islands a speciality: Fort Denison/Cockatoo Island/Shark Island costs $110/125/150 for up to 10 people from Circular Quay. Has a handy quote calculator on its website.
Water Taxis CombinedFERRY
(%02-9555 8888; www.watertaxis.com.au)
Fares based on up to four passengers: Circular Quay to Watsons Bay $110; to Rose Bay $110; to Woolloomooloo $70. It also offers harbour cruise packages.
Yellow Water TaxisFERRY
(%02-9299 0199; www.yellowwatertaxis.com.au)
Set price for up to four passengers, then $10 per person for additional people. Sample fares from King St Wharf: Circular Quay and Fort Denison $83; Taronga Zoo $95; Cockatoo Island and Shark Island $121; Watsons Bay $127.
Hawkesbury River
Less than an hour from Sydney, the tranquil Hawkesbury River flows past honeycomb-coloured cliffs, historic townships and riverside hamlets into bays and inlets and between a series of national parks, including Ku-ring-gai Chase and Brisbane Water.
Further upstream, a narrow forested waterway diverts from the Hawkesbury and peters down to the chilled-out river town of Berowra Waters, where a handful of businesses, boat sheds and residences cluster around the free, 24-hour ferry across Berowra Creek.
The riverside hamlet of Wisemans Ferry spills over a bow of the Hawkesbury River where it slides east towards Brooklyn. The surrounding area retains remnants of the convict-built Great North Road, originally constructed to link Sydney with the Hunter Valley and now part of the Australian Convict Sites listing on Unesco’s World Heritage list. To download a self-guided tour brochure, go to www.rms.nsw.gov.au and type ‘convict trail’ into the search box.
2Activities
Riverboat PostmanCRUISE
(%0400 600 111; www.riverboatpostman.com.au; Brooklyn Public Wharf, Dangar Rd; adult/child/senior $50/15/44; h10am Mon-Fri; dHawkesbury River)
Departing Brooklyn, the Riverboat Postman is Australia’s last operating mail boat and a decidedly old-school way to get a feel for the river. It chugs 40km up the Hawkesbury from Brooklyn to as far as Marlow, returning to Brooklyn at 1.15pm. The fare includes morning tea and a ploughman's lunch.
4Sleeping
The best way to experience the Hawkesbury is on a fully equipped houseboat. Rates skyrocket during summer and school holidays, but most outfits offer affordable low-season, midweek and long-term rental specials. To give a very rough guide, a two-/six-berth boat for three nights costs from $950/1050 from September to early December, with prices doubling during the Christmas–New Year period and on weekends and holidays throughout the year. Options include Hawkesbury Afloat (%02-9985 7722; www.hawkesburyafloat.com.au; 45 Brooklyn Rd, Brooklyn), Holidays Afloat (%02-9985 5555; www.holidaysafloat.com.au; 87 Brooklyn Rd, Brooklyn) and Ripples on the Hawkesbury (%02-9985 5555; www.ripples.com.au; 87 Brooklyn Rd, Brooklyn).
5Eating
Berowra Waters InnMODERN AUSTRALIAN
(%02-9456 1027; www.berowrawatersinn.com; East or West public wharves; menu per person $175; hnoon-2pm Fri-Sun, 6-10pm Fri & Sat)
Wow! On the riverbank upstream from Berowra Waters township and only accessible by boat or seaplane, this Glenn Murcutt–designed restaurant is a real show-stopper. The restaurant has a sensational Mod Oz degustation menu and brilliant river views – perfect for a special occasion (like your holiday!). Call for bookings and to arrange a ferry.
8Getting There & Away
Trains run from Sydney’s Central Station to Berowra and on to Brooklyn’s Hawkesbury River station ($7/3.50, one hour, roughly hourly). Note that the Berowra train station is a solid 6km trudge from Berowra Waters.
Wisemans Ferry is most easily accessed by river but can be reached by a pretty road which winds along the north bank of the river from the Central Coast, through Dharug National Park. Largely unsealed but photogenic roads run north from Wisemans Ferry to tiny St Albans.
Blue Mountains
Pop 78,500
A region with more than its fair share of natural beauty, the Blue Mountains was an obvious choice for Unesco World Heritage status. The slate-coloured haze that gives the mountains their name comes from a fine mist of oil exuded by the huge eucalypts that form a dense canopy across the landscape of deep, often inaccessible valleys and chiselled sandstone outcrops.
The foothills begin 65km inland from Sydney, rising to an 1100m-high sandstone plateau riddled with valleys eroded into the stone over thousands of years. There are eight connected conservation areas in the region, including the Blue Mountains National Park (www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/Blue-Mountains-National-Park), which has some truly fantastic scenery, excellent bushwalks (hikes), Aboriginal engravings and all the canyons and cliffs you could ask for. Wollemi National Park ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/Wollemi-National-Park), north of the Bells Line of Road, is NSW’s largest forested wilderness area, stretching all the way to the Hunter Valley.
Although it’s possible to visit on a day trip from Sydney, we strongly recommend that you stay at least one night so that you can explore a few of the towns, do at least one bushwalk and eat at some of the excellent restaurants. The hills can be surprisingly cool throughout the year, so bring warm clothes.
Blue Mountains
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
5Eating
6Drinking & Nightlife
Information
1Sights
Glenbrook
Arriving from Sydney, the first of the Blue Mountains towns you will encounter is unassuming Glenbrook. From here, you can drive or walk into the lower reaches of the national park; this is the only part of the park where vehicle entry fees apply ($7). Six kilometres from the park entrance gate is the Mt Portal Lookout with panoramic views into the Glenbrook Gorge, over the Nepean River and back to Sydney.
Red Hands CaveARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Less a cave than an alcove, this Aboriginal shelter is decorated with hand stencils dating from between 500 and 1600 years ago. It's an easy, 7km return walk southwest of the Glenbrook Visitor Centre.
Wentworth Falls
As you head into the town of Wentworth Falls, you’ll get your first real taste of Blue Mountains scenery: views to the south open out across the majestic Jamison Valley.
Wentworth Falls ReserveWATERFALL, PARK
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Falls Rd; dWentworth Falls)
The falls that lend the town its name launch a plume of droplets over a 300m drop. This is the starting point of a network of walking tracks, which delve into the sublime Valley of the Waters, with waterfalls, gorges, woodlands and rainforests. Be sure to stretch your legs along the 1km return to Princes Rock which offers excellent views of Wentworth Falls and the Jamison Valley.
Leura
Leura is the Blue Mountains' prettiest town, fashioned around undulating streets, well-tended gardens and sweeping Victorian verandahs. Leura Mall, the tree-lined main street, offers rows of country craft stores and cafes for the daily tourist influx.
Sublime PointLOOKOUT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Sublime Point Rd, Leura; p)
South of Leura, this sharp, triangular outcrop narrows to a dramatic lookout with sheer cliffs on each side. We prefer it to Katoomba's more famous Echo Point, mainly because it's much, much quieter. On sunny days cloud shadows dance across the vast blue valley below.
Everglades Historic House & GardensGARDENS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-4784 1938; www.everglades.org.au; 37 Everglades Ave, Leura ; adult/child $10/4; h10am-5pm)
National Trust–owned Everglades was built in the 1930s. While the house is moderately interesting, the magnificent 5 hectares of garden created by Danish ‘master gardener’ Paul Sorenson are the real drawcard.
Leuralla NSW Toy & Railway MuseumMUSEUM, GARDENS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-4784 1169; www.toyandrailwaymuseum.com.au; 36 Olympian Pde; adult/child $14/6, gardens only $10/5; h10am-5pm)
The art deco mansion that was once home to HV ‘Doc’ Evatt, the first UN president, is jam-packed with an incredible array of collectables – from grumpy Edwardian baby dolls to Dr Who figurines, to a rare set of Nazi propaganda toys. Railway memorabilia is scattered throughout the handsome gardens.
Katoomba
Swirling, otherworldly mists, steep streets lined with art deco buildings, astonishing valley views and a quirky miscellany of restaurants, buskers, artists, homeless people, bawdy pubs and classy hotels – Katoomba, the biggest town in the mountains, manages to be bohemian and bourgeois, embracing and menacing all at once.
Echo PointLOOKOUT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Echo Point Rd, Katoomba)
Echo Point's clifftop viewing platform is the busiest spot in the Blue Mountains thanks to the views it offers of the area's most essential sight: a rocky trio called the Three Sisters ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Echo Point, Echo Point Rd, Katoomba). The story goes that the sisters were turned to stone by a sorcerer to protect them from the unwanted advances of three young men, but the sorcerer died before he could turn them back into humans.
Warning: Echo Point draws vast, serenity-spoiling tourist gaggles, their idling buses farting fumes into the mountain air – arrive early or late to avoid them. The surrounding parking is expensive ($4.40 per hour), so park a few streets back and walk.
Waradah Aboriginal CentreCULTURAL CENTRE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.waradahaboriginalcentre.com.au; 33-37 Echo Point Rd; show adult/child $12/7; h9am-5pm)
Located in the World Heritage Plaza, this gallery and shop displays some exceptional examples of Aboriginal art alongside tourist tat like painted boomerangs and didgeridoos. However, the main reason to visit is to catch one of the 15-minute shows. Held throughout the day, they provide an interesting and good-humoured introduction to Indigenous culture.
Scenic WorldCABLE CAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-4780 0200; www.scenicworld.com.au; cnr Violet St & Cliff Dr, Katoomba; adult/child $35/18; h9am-5pm)
Take the glass-floored Skyway gondola across the gorge and then ride what's billed as the steepest railway in the world down the 52-degree incline to the Jamison Valley floor. From here you can wander a 2.5km forest boardwalk (or hike the 12km, six-hour return track to the Ruined Castle rock formation) before catching a cable car back up the slope.
Blue Mountains Cultural CentreGALLERY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.bluemountainsculturalcentre.com.au; 30 Parke St; adult/child $5/free; h10am-5pm)
It's a captivating experience to walk through the World Heritage display, with a satellite image of the Blue Mountains beneath your feet, mountain scenery projected on the walls and ceiling, and bush sounds surrounding you. The neighbouring gallery hosts interesting exhibitions and there's a great view from the roof terrace. Drop into the library for free internet access.
ParagonNOTABLE BUILDING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/TheParagonCafe; 65 Katoomba St; h10am-4pm Sun-Fri, to 10.30pm Sat)
It's not one of Katoomba's better eateries, but it's well worth dropping into this heritage-listed 1916 cafe for its fabulous period decor. The handmade chocolates are pretty good too. Make sure you wander through to the Great Gatsby–esque mirrored cocktail bar at the rear.
Blackheath
The crowds and commercial frenzy fizzle considerably 10km north of Katoomba in neat, petite Blackheath. The town measures up in the scenery stakes, and it’s an excellent base for visiting the Grose and Megalong Valleys. East of town are Evans Lookout ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Evans Lookout Rd) and Govetts Leap Lookout ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Govettes Leap Rd), offering views of the highest falls in the Blue Mountains. To the northeast, via Hat Hill Rd, are Pulpit Rock ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), Perrys Lookdown ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) and Anvil Rock ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ). To the west and southwest lie the Kanimbla and Megalong Valleys, with spectacular views from Hargraves Lookout ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Shipley Rd).
WORTH A TRIP
BELLS LINE OF ROAD
This stretch of road between North Richmond and Lithgow is the most scenic route across the Blue Mountains and is highly recommended if you have your own transport. It's far quieter than the highway and offers bountiful views.
Bilpin, at the base of the mountains, is known for its apple orchards. The Bilpin Markets are held at the district hall every Saturday from 10am to noon.
Midway between Bilpin and Bell, the Blue Mountains Botanic Garden Mount Tomah ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-4567 3000; www.rbgsyd.nsw.gov.au; h9.30am-5.30pm) is a cool-climate annexe of Sydney’s Royal Botanic Garden where native plants cuddle up to exotic species, including some magnificent rhododendrons.
To access Bells Line from central Sydney, head over the Harbour Bridge and take the M2 and then the M7 (both have tolls). Exit at Richmond Rd, which becomes Blacktown Rd, then Lennox Rd, then (after a short dog-leg) Kurrajong Rd and finally Bells Line of Road.
2Activities
Bushwalking
For tips on walks to suit your level of experience and fitness call the National Parks' Blue Mountains Heritage Centre in Blackheath, or the information centres in Glenbrook or Katoomba. All three sell a variety of walk pamphlets, maps and books.
Note that the bush here is dense and that it can be easy to become lost – there have been deaths as a consequence. Always leave your name and walk plan with the Katoomba police or at the National Parks centre. The police, National Parks and information centres all offer free personal locator beacons and it's strongly suggested you take one with you, especially for longer hikes. Remember to carry clean drinking water and plenty of food.
The two most popular bushwalking areas are the Jamison Valley, south of Katoomba, and the Grose Valley, northeast of Katoomba and east of Blackheath. The Golden Stairs Walk ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Glenraphael Dr, Katoomba) is a less-congested route to the Ruined Castle than the track leading from Scenic World. To get there, continue along Cliff Dr from Scenic World for 1km and look for Glenraphael Dr on your left. It quickly becomes rough and unsealed. Watch out for the signs to the Golden Stairs on the left after a couple of kilometres. It is a steep, exhilarating trail down into the valley (about 8km, five hours return).
One of the most rewarding long-distance walks is the 45km, three-day Six Foot Track from Katoomba along the Megalong Valley to Cox’s River and on to the Jenolan Caves. It has camp sites along the way.
Cycling
The mountains are also a popular cycling destination, with many people taking their bikes on the train to Woodford and then cycling downhill to Glenbrook, a ride of two to three hours. Cycling maps are available from the visitor centres.
Adventure Activities & Tours
Blue Mountains Adventure CompanyADVENTURE SPORTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-4782 1271; www.bmac.com.au; 84a Bathurst Rd, Katoomba; h8am-7pm)
Abseiling from $150, abseiling and canyoning combo from $195, canyoning from $150, bushwalking from $30 and rock climbing from $195.
High 'n' Wild Australian AdventuresADVENTURE SPORTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-4782 6224; www.highandwild.com.au; Blue Mountains YHA, 207 Katoomba St, Katoomba)S
Guided abseiling/rock climbing/canyoning from $135/169/190.
Australian School of MountaineeringADVENTURE SPORTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-4782 2014; www.asmguides.com; 166 Katoomba St, Katoomba)
Abseiling/canyoning/bushcraft/rock climbing from $165/180/195/195.
River Deep Mountain HighADVENTURE SPORTS
(%02-4782 6109; www.rdmh.com.au)S
Offers abseiling (from $150), canyoning (from $150) and canyoning and abseiling packages ($195), plus a range of hiking and mountain-biking tours.
Tread Lightly Eco ToursECOTOUR
(%0414 976 752; www.treadlightly.com.au)S
Has a wide range of day and night walks ($65 to $135) and 4WD tours that emphasise the region’s ecology.
Aboriginal Blue Mountains WalkaboutCULTURAL TOUR
(%0408 443 822; www.bluemountainswalkabout.com; tour $95)
Full-day Indigenous-owned and -guided adventurous trek with a spiritual theme; starts at Faulconbridge train station and ends at Springwood station.
zFestivals & Events
YulefestFESTIVAL
Out-of-kilter Christmas-style celebrations between June and August.
Winter Magic FestivalFESTIVAL
This one-day festival, held at the winter solstice in June, sees Katoomba's main street taken over by market stalls, costumed locals and performances.
Leura Gardens FestivalGARDENS
(www.leuragardensfestival.com; all gardens $20, single garden $5)
Green-thumbed tourists flock to Leura during October, when 10 private gardens are open to the public.
4Sleeping
There’s a good range of accommodation in the Blue Mountains, but you’ll need to book ahead during winter and for Friday and Saturday nights (Sydneysiders love coming here for romantic weekends away). Leafy Leura is your best bet for romance, while Blackheath is a good base for hikers; both are better choices than built-up Katoomba, although it does have excellent hostels.
Leura
oBroomeleaB&B
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-4784 2940; www.broomelea.com.au; 273 Leura Mall; r $180-200; iW)
The consummate romantic Blue Mountains B&B, this fine Edwardian house offers four-poster beds, manicured gardens, cane furniture on the verandah, an open fire and a snug lounge. There’s also a self-contained cottage for families.
Greens of LeuraB&B
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-4784 3241; www.thegreensleura.com.au; 24-26 Grose St; r $175-220; iW)
On a quiet street parallel to the Mall, this pretty timber house set in a lovely garden offers five rooms named after English writers (Browning, Austen etc). All are individually decorated; some have four-poster beds and spas.
Katoomba
oBlue Mountains YHAHOSTEL
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-4782 1416; www.yha.com.au; 207 Katoomba St; dm $30, d with/without bathroom $112/99; iW)
Behind the austere brick exterior of this popular 200-bed hostel are dorms and family rooms that are comfortable, light-filled and spotlessly clean. Facilities include a lounge (with an open fire), a pool table, an excellent communal kitchen and an outdoor space with barbecues.
No 14HOSTEL
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-4782 7104; www.no14.com.au; 14 Lovel St; dm $28, r with/without bathroom $89/79; iW)
Resembling a cheery share house, this small hostel has a friendly vibe and helpful managers. There's no TV, so guests actually tend to talk to each other. A basic breakfast and internet access is included in the rates.
Flying FoxHOSTEL
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-4782 4226; www.theflyingfox.com.au; 190 Bathurst Rd; camp sites per person $20, dm $28-30, r $80-85; W)
The owners are travellers at heart and have endowed this unassuming hostel with an endearing home-away-from-home feel. There’s no party scene here – just mulled wine and Tim Tams in the lounge, free breakfasts and a weekly pasta night.
Shelton-LeaB&B
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-4782 9883; www.sheltonlea.com; 159 Lurline St; r $130-210; W)
This homely mountain cottage has been tweaked to create four suites, each with its own sitting area and kitchenette. There’s a hint of art deco in the decor and lots of frilly furnishings.
LilianfelsHOTEL
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-4780 1200; www.lilianfels.com.au; 5-19 Lilianfels Ave; r from $229; aiWs)
Right next to Echo Point and enjoying spectacular views, this luxury resort has 85 guest rooms, the region's top-rated restaurant (Darley's; three courses $125) and an indulgent array of facilities including spa, heated indoor and outdoor pools, tennis court, billiards/games room, library and gym.
Blackheath
Jemby-Rinjah Eco LodgeCABINS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-4787 7622; www.jemby.com.au; 336 Evans Lookout Rd; from $215)S
These eco-cabins are lodged so deeply in the bottlebrush you'll have to bump into one to find it. All of the one- and two-bedroom weatherboard cabins are self-equipped; the deluxe model also has a Japanese hot tub.
5Eating & Drinking
Wentworth Falls
Nineteen23MODERN AUSTRALIAN
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0488 361 923; www.nineteen23.com.au; 1 Lake St; 2/3 courses $60/75; hnoon-3pm Sat & Sun, 6-10pm Thu-Sun)
Wearing its 1920s ambience with aplomb, this elegant dining room is a particular favourite with loved-up couples happy to gaze into each other's eyes over a lengthy degustation. While the food isn't particularly experimental, it's beautifully cooked and bursting with flavour.
Leura
Leura Gourmet Cafe & DeliDELI
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-4784 1438; 159 Leura Mall; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri ; dLeura)
Perfect picnic prep with gourmet salads, pies and quiches to go. Local food enthusiasts will want to shop up on local jams, olive oils and vinegars. The great gelato selection is brilliant for bribing kids on a bushwalk and the attached cafe has impressive views.
Leura GarageMEDITERRANEAN
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-4784 3391; www.leuragarage.com.au; 84 Railway Pde; lunch $17-28, shared plates $13-33; hnoon-late Thu-Mon)
If you were in any doubt that this hip cafe-bar was once a garage, the suspended mufflers and stacks of old tyres press the point. At dinner the menu shifts gears to rustic shared plates served on wooden slabs, including deli treat–laden pizza.
Cafe MadeleineCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.josophans.com.au; 187a Leura Mall; mains $12-18; h9am-5pm)
The sister to a chocolate shop, Madeleine excels in sweet treats such as chocolate-drenched waffles, cakes and hot chocolates. Mind you, the eggy breakfasts and French-influenced savoury dishes are also excellent.
Silk's BrasserieMODERN AUSTRALIAN
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-4784 2534; www.silksleura.com; 128 Leura Mall; mains lunch $24-39, dinner $35-39; hnoon-3pm & 6-10pm)
A warm welcome awaits at Leura's long-standing fine diner. Despite its contemporary approach, it's a brasserie at heart, so the serves are generous and flavoursome. Save room for the decadent desserts.
Alexandra HotelPUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.alexandrahotel.com.au; 62 Great Western Hwy)
The Alex is a gem of an old pub. Join the locals competing at the pool table or listening to DJs and live bands on the weekend.
Katoomba
Sanwiye Korean CafeKOREAN
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0405 402 130; www.facebook.com/sanwiyekoreancafe; 177 Katoomba St; mains $10-16; h11am-9.30pm Tue-Sun)
In the sea of overpriced mediocrity that is the Katoomba dining scene, this tiny place distinguishes itself with fresh and tasty food made with love by the Korean owners.
True to the BeanCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/truetothebean; 123 Katoomba St; waffles $3-6; h7am-5pm Mon-Sat, 8am-2pm Sun; W)
The Sydney obsession with single-estate coffee has made its way to Katoomba's main drag in the form of this tiny espresso bar. Food is limited to the likes of bircher muesli and waffles.
Bistro NiagaraBISTRO
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-4782 9530; www.facebook.com/BistroNiagara; 92 Bathurst Rd; mains $26; h5.30pm-9.30pm Wed-Sun, 11am-10.30pm Sat & Sun; dKatoomba)
Serving up classics like bubbling double cheese souffle and banoffe pie, this cosy mountain bistro is a hit with locals and travellers who are both given a cheery welcome by the staff. At the heart of the restaurant is the wood-fire oven which might be cooking up a suckling pig or a sticky apple and pear tarte tatin depending on the night. On weekends a casual lunch menu runs all afternoon which is perfect for hungry bushwalkers.
Blackheath
VestaBISTRO
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.vestablackheath.com.au; 33 Govetts Leap Rd, Blackheath; mains $30; h4pm-10pm Wed & Thu, noon-10pm Fri-Sun)
Feeling the sting of a Blue Mountain's cold snap? It's easy to warm up with Vesta’s century-old wood-fired bakery oven roaring in the background serving up hearty plates of roasted meats (all free range, grass fed and local) and bottles of Aussie wines to a boisterous crowd of locals.
AshcroftsEUROPEAN
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-4787 8297; www.ashcrofts.com; 18 Govetts Leap Rd, Blackheath; mains $40; h6-10pm Thu-Sun, noon-3pm & 6-10pm Sun)
This acclaimed restaurant may have new owners but it still retains its excellent reputation as a longtime mountains favourite. The snug dining room is a charming spot to dip into the short, but polished menu which changes seasonally and favours creative pairings such as venison with beetroot, parsnip and dark chocolate.
8Information
Blue Mountains Heritage CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-4787 8877; www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/Blue-Mountains-National-Park; end of Govetts Leap Rd, Blackheath; h9am-4.30pm)
The extremely helpful, official NPWS visitor centre.
Echo Point Visitors CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %1300 653 408; www.bluemountainscitytourism.com.au; Echo Point, Katoomba; h9am-5pm)
A sizeable centre with can-do staff.
Glenbrook Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %1300 653 408; www.bluemountainscitytourism.com.au; Great Western Hwy; h8.30am-4pm; W)
8Getting There & Around
To reach the Blue Mountains by road, leave Sydney via Parramatta Rd. At Strathfield detour onto the toll-free M4, which becomes the Great Western Hwy west of Penrith and takes you to all of the Blue Mountains towns. It takes approximately 1½ hours to drive from central Sydney to Katoomba. A scenic alternative is the Bells Line of Road.
Blue Mountains Explorer BusBUS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %1300 300 915; www.explorerbus.com.au; 283 Bathurst Rd, Katoomba; adult/child $40/20; h9.45am-5pm)
Offers hop-on, hop-off service on a Katoomba–Leura loop. Leaves from Katoomba station every 30 to 60 minutes.
Sydney TrainsTRAIN
(%13 15 00; www.sydneytrains.info)
Trains on the Blue Mountains line depart Sydney's Central Station approximately hourly for Glenbrook, Springwood, Faulconbridge, Wentworth Falls, Leura, Katoomba and Blackheath; allow two hours for Katoomba (adult/child $8.80/4.40).
Trolley ToursBUS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %1800 801 577; www.trolleytours.com.au; 76 Bathurst St, Katoomba; adult/child $25/15; h9.45am-4.45pm)
Runs a hop-on, hop-off bus barely disguised as a trolley, looping around 29 stops in Katoomba and Leura.