Margaret River & the Southwest Coast
Margaret River & the Southwest Coast Highlights
Geographe Bay
Bunbury
Busselton
Dunsborough
Cape Naturaliste
Margaret River Wine Region
Yallingup & Around
Cowaramup & Wilyabrup
Margaret River
Around Margaret River
Augusta & Around
Southern Forests
Nannup
Bridgetown
Pemberton
Margaret River & the Southwest Coast
Why Go?
The farmland, forests, rivers and coast of the lush, green southwestern corner of Western Australia (WA) contrast vividly with the stark, sunburnt terrain of much of the rest of the state. On land, world-class wineries and craft breweries beckon, and tall trees provide shade for walking trails and scenic drives. Offshore, bottlenose dolphins and whales frolic, and devoted surfers search for – and often find – their perfect break.
Unusually for WA, distances between the many attractions are short, and driving time is mercifully limited, making it a fantastic area to explore for a few days – you will get much more out of your stay here if you have your own wheels. Summer brings hordes of visitors, but in the wintry months from July to September the cosy pot-bellied stove rules and visitors are scarce, and while opening hours can be somewhat erratic, prices are much more reasonable.
When to Go
AJan Follow the party crowds from the Southbound festival to the beach.
AMar & Apr Catch the surf competition in Margaret River, and the Nannup Music Festival.
AAug Head to empty beaches, Margaret River wineries and Busselton's film festival.
Best Places to Eat
Margaret River & the Southwest Coast Highlights
1 Sampling the first-class wine, food and architecture of the vineyards of Margaret River.
2 Getting active amid the dramatic seascapes and landscapes of the Margaret River region.
3 Exploring the labyrinthine limestone caverns along Caves Rd, especially beautiful Lake Cave.
4 Fronting up to the impressive coastline at Augusta's Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse, at the confluence of the Indian and Southern Oceans.
5 Sinking into the dappled depths of the karri forests surrounding Pemberton.
6 Revelling in the wild beauty of Cape Naturaliste and Bunker Bay.
7 Canoeing from the forest to the sea along the Blackwood River, starting at Nannup.
Geographe Bay
Turquoise waters and white sands are the defining features of this gorgeous bay, lined with 30km of excellent swimming beaches. Positioned between the Indian Ocean and a sea of wine, the beachside towns of Busselton and Dunsborough attract hordes of holidaymakers wanting to spend their vacations with sand between their toes and a glass between their lips.
Bunbury
Pop 66,100
The southwest's only city is remaking its image from that of an industrial port into a seaside holiday destination. Located 170km from Perth, Bunbury has good eateries and interesting attractions worthy of a stop.
1Sights & Activities
Dolphin Discovery CentreWILDLIFE RESERVE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9791 3088; www.dolphindiscovery.com.au; Koombana Beach; adult/child $10/5; h9am-2pm Jun-Sep, 8am-4pm Oct-May)
Around 60 bottlenose dolphins live in the bay year-round, their numbers increasing to 260 in summer. This centre has a beachside zone where dolphins regularly come to interact with people in the shallows and you can wade in alongside them, under the supervision of trained volunteers.
If you want to up your chances, there are 1½-hour Eco Cruises (1½hr cruise adult/child $49/35; h11am daily Oct-May, 11am Sat & Sun Jun-Sep) and three-hour Swim Encounter Cruises (3hr cruises $149; h7.30am mid-Oct–mid-Dec & Feb-Apr, 7.30am & 11.30am mid-Dec–Jan).
Bunbury Wildlife ParkZOO
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.bunburywildlifepark.com.au; Prince Philip Dr; adult/child $9/5; h10am-5pm)
Parrots, kangaroos, wallabies, possums, owls and emus all feature. Across the road, the Big Swamp has good wetlands walking tracks and stops for birdwatching. Head south on Ocean Dr, turn left at Hayward St and continue through the roundabout to Prince Philip Dr.
Bunbury Regional Art GalleriesGALLERY
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.brag.org.au; 64 Wittenoom St; h10am-4pm)F
Housed in a restored pink-painted convent (1897), this excellent gallery has a collection that includes works by Australian art luminaries Arthur Boyd and Sir Sidney Nolan.
4Sleeping
Dolphin Retreat YHAHOSTEL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9792 4690; www.dolphinretreatbunbury.com.au; 14 Wellington St; dm/s/d $32/57/82; iW)
Around the corner from the beach, this small hostel is in a labyrinthine old house with hammocks and a barbecue on the back verandah.
The CliftonMOTEL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9721 4300; www.theclifton.com.au; 2 Molloy St; r $150-275; W)
For luxurious heritage accommodation, go for the top-of-the-range rooms in the Clifton's historic Grittleton Lodge (1885). Good-value motel rooms are also available.
MantraAPARTMENT
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9721 0100; www.mantra.com.au; 1 Holman St; apt from $204; aiWs)
The Mantra has sculpted a set of modern studios and apartments around four grain silos by the harbour. Deluxe rooms have spa baths and full kitchens.
5Eating & Drinking
KokoroJAPANESE
( GOOGLE MAP ; 30 Victoria St; mains $10-18; h11am-2.30pm & 6pm-late)
Head to the cosy Kokoro and dine izakaya style on Japanese tapas. Moreish highlights include creamy crab croquettes and tempura prawns, and the broader menu includes sushi and sashimi, and more robust teriyaki salmon and beef dishes. Lunch specials from $9.50 are good value.
Happy WifeCAFE
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.thehappywife.com.au; 98 Stirling St; mains $11-24; h6.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-2.30pm Sat)
Grab a spot in the garden of this Cape Cod–style cottage just a short drive from the centre of town. Excellent home-style baking and regular lunch specials make it worth seeking out. Try the Asian-style sticky pork salad with nashi pear, cabbage salad and toasted peanuts.
Café 140CAFE
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.cafe140.com.au; 140 Victoria St; mains $12-21; h7.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2pm Sat & Sun)
Hip, onto-it staff make the funky Café 140 a top spot for a leisurely Bunbury breakfast. With one of WA's best salmon omelettes, good coffee, and lots of magazines and newspapers, you can kiss goodbye to at least an hour of your travel schedule. Later in the day, gourmet burgers and grilled Turkish sandwiches are among the lunchtime stars.
MashCRAFT BEER
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.mashbrewing.com.au; 2/11 Bonnefoi Blvd; h11am-3pm Mon & Tue, to 9pm Wed-Sun)
This waterfront microbrewery turns out seven regular beers, plus always interesting seasonal concoctions. Try the Copycat AIPA, champion brew at the Australian International Beer Awards in 2014. The food (mains $18 to $38) is decent pub grub, but service can be hit and miss.
8Information
Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9792 7205; www.visitbunbury.com.au; Carmody Pl; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun)
Located in the historic train station (1904).
8Getting There & Around
Bus
Coaches stop at the central bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9722 7800; Carmody Pl), next to the visitor centre, or at the train station (Picton Rd, Woolaston).
Transwa routes include the following:
SW1 (12 weekly) To East Perth ($31, 3¼ hours), Mandurah ($17, two hours), Busselton ($9.55, 43 minutes), Margaret River ($17, two hours) and Augusta ($25, 2½ hours).
SW2 (three weekly) To Balingup ($14, 53 minutes), Bridgetown ($17, 1¼ hours) and Pemberton ($28, 2¼ hours).
GS3 (daily) To Walpole ($45, 4½ hours), Denmark ($51, 5½ hours) and Albany ($58, six hours).
Train
Bunbury is the terminus of the Transwa (%1300 662 205; www.transwa.wa.gov.au) Australind train line, with two daily services to Perth ($31, 2½ hours) and Pinjarra ($17, 1¼ hours).
Busselton
Pop 15,400
Unpretentious, uncomplicated and with a slightly faded charm, family friendly Busselton is surrounded by calm waters and white-sand beaches. During school holidays it really bustles – the population increases fourfold and accommodation prices soar.
1Sights & Activities
Busselton JettyJETTY
(%08-9754 0900; www.busseltonjetty.com.au; adult/child $2.50/free, return train adult/child $11/6, Interpretive Centre admission free; hInterpretive Centre 9am-5pm)
Busselton's 1865 timber-piled jetty – the longest in the southern hemisphere (1841m) – reopened in 2011 following a $27-million refurbishment. A little train chugs along to the Underwater Observatory (adult/child incl train $29.50/14; h9am-4.25pm), where tours take place 8m below the surface; bookings are essential. There's also an Interpretive Centre, an attractive building in the style of 1930s bathing sheds, about 50m along the jetty.
Dive ShedDIVING
(%08-9754 1615; www.diveshed.com.au; 21 Queen St)
Runs regular dive charters along the jetty, to Four Mile Reef (a 40km limestone ledge about 6.5km off the coast) and to the scuttled navy vessel HMAS Swan (off Dunsborough).
zFestivals & Events
SouthboundMUSIC
(www.southboundfestival.com.au; hearly Jan)
Start off the New Year with three days of alternative music and camping.
CinéfestOZCINEMA
(www.cinefestoz.com; hlate Aug)
Busselton briefly morphs into St-Tropez with this oddly glamorous festival of French and Australian cinema, including lots of Australian premieres and the odd Aussie starlet.
4Sleeping
Busselton is packed in the holidays and pretty much deserted in the low season. Accommodation sprawls along the beach for several kilometres either side of the town, so make sure you check the location if you don't have your own wheels.
Beachlands Holiday ParkCARAVAN PARK
(%1800 622 107; www.beachlands.net; 10 Earnshaw Rd, West Busselton; sites per 2 people $45, chalets from $142; aWs)
This excellent family-friendly park offers a wide range of accommodation amid shady trees, palms and flax bushes. Deluxe spa villas ($185) have corner spas, huge TVs, DVD players and full kitchens.
Blue Bay ApartmentsAPARTMENT
(%08-9751 1796; www.bluebayapartments.com; 66 Adelaide St; apt from $140; a)
Close to the beach, these good-value self-contained apartments are bright and cheery, each with private courtyard and barbecue.
5Eating
oLaundry 43CAFE
(www.laundry43.com.au; 43 Prince St; shared plates $14-29; h9am-late Tue-Sat)
Brick walls and a honey-coloured jarrah bar form the backdrop for Margaret River beers and wines, great cocktails, and classy shared plates and bigger dishes. Definitely get ready to linger longer than you planned. Wednesday nights offer live music from 7.30pm.
GooseCAFE
(www.thegoose.com.au; Geographe Bay Rd; breakfast $10-21, shared plates & mains $11-34; h7am-late; W)
Near the jetty, this stylish cafe has been reborn as a cool and classy bar and bistro. The drinks list bubbles away with WA craft beer and wine, and a versatile menu kicks off with eggy breakfasts, before graduating to shared plates including Vietnamese pulled pork sliders, and larger dishes like steamed mussels and seafood chowder.
8Information
Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(%08-9752 5800; www.geographebay.com; end of Queen St, Busselton Foreshore; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4.30pm Sat & Sun)
Underneath the lighthouse near the pier.
8Getting There & Around
South West Coach LinesBUS
(%08-9753 7700; www.transdevsw.com.au; 39 Albert St)
Runs services to/from Perth's Esplanade Busport ($39, 3¾ hours, three daily), Bunbury ($11.50, one hour, three daily), Dunsborough ($11.50, 30 minutes, three daily) and Margaret River ($11.50, 50 minutes, three daily).
TranswaBUS
(%1300 662 205; www.transwa.wa.gov.au)
Coach SW1 (12 weekly) stops on Peel Tce, heading to/from East Perth ($37, 4¼ hours), Bunbury ($9.55, 43 minutes), Dunsborough ($8, 28 minutes), Margaret River ($14, 1½ hours) and Augusta ($17, 1¾ hours).
Dunsborough
Pop 3400
Dunsborough is a relaxed, beach-worshipping town that goes bonkers towards the end of November when 7000 'schoolies' (school leavers) descend. When it's not inundated with drunken, squealing teenagers, it's a thoroughly pleasant place to be. The beaches are better than Busselton's, but accommodation is more limited.
2Activities
Cape DiveDIVING
(%08-9756 8778; www.capedive.com; 222 Naturaliste Tce)
There is excellent diving in Geographe Bay, especially since the decommissioned Navy destroyer HMAS Swan was purposely scuttled in 1997 for use as a dive wreck. Marine life has colonised the ship, which lies at a depth of 30m, 2.5km offshore.
Naturaliste ChartersWHALE WATCHING
(%08-9750 5500; www.whales-australia.com; adult/child $80/50; h10am & 2pm Sep-mid Dec)
Two-hour whale-watching cruises from September to mid-December. From January to March the emphasis switches to an Eco Wilderness Tour showcasing beaches, limestone caves with indigenous art, and wildlife including dolphins and New Zealand fur seals. Tours also run out of Augusta from mid-May to September.
4Sleeping
There are many options for self-contained rentals in town depending on the season; the visitor centre has current listings.
Dunsborough Beachouse YHAHOSTEL
(%08-9755 3107; www.dunsboroughbeachouse.com.au; 205 Geographe Bay Rd; dm $34-36, s/d $58/88; iW)
On the Quindalup beachfront, this friendly hostel has lawns stretching languidly to the water's edge; it's an easy 2km cycle from the town centre.
Dunsborough Central MotelMOTEL
(%08-9756 7711; www.dunsboroughmotel.com.au; 50 Dunn Bay Rd; r $130-175; Ws)
Centrally located in Dunsborough town, this well-run motel is good value, especially if you can snare an online midweek discount. That means more of your travel budget to enjoy nearby wineries and breweries.
5Eating & Drinking
PourhouseBISTRO, PUB
(www.pourhouse.com.au; 26 Dunn Bay Rd; mains $19-31; h4pm-late Mon-Sat, from 2pm Sun)
Hip but not pretentious, with comfy couches, regular live bands, and an upstairs terrace for summer. The pizzas are excellent, and top-notch burgers come in a locally baked sour dough bun. A considered approach to beer includes rotating taps from the best of WA's craft breweries and lots of bottled surprises.
SamudraCAFE
(www.samudra.com.au; 226 Naturaliste Tce; mains $14-23; h7am-3pm Thu-Tue, to 10pm Wed; v)S
This funky garden cafe is one of WA's best vegetarian restaurants. Tasty wood-fired pizzas underpin a superhealthy menu of salads, wraps and smoothies, and there are plenty of shady places to sit and read or write. Samudra also offers relaxing and reinvigorating yoga classes, and surfing and spa retreats.
oPiari & CoBISTRO, BAR
(%08-9756 7977; www.piariandco.com.au; 5/54 Dunn Bay Rd; small plates $17-20, mains $35-38; h10am-5pm Tue, 10am-11pm Wed-Fri, 5-11pm Sat)
This relaxed and stylish bistro has a strong emphasis on local and seasonal produce. Small plates include Esperance scallops with crispy duck, and a subtle combination of citrus-cured salmon and mandarin gel. Mains such as pork belly and roast apple go well with a drinks list proudly showcasing Margaret River wines and craft beer. Bookings recommended.
8Information
Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(%08-9752 5800; www.geographebay.com; 1/31 Dunn Bay Rd; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-4.30pm Sat & Sun)
Information and bookings.
8Getting There & Away
South West Coach LinesBUS
(%08-9753 7700; www.transdevsw.com.au)
Services to/from Perth's Esplanade Busport ($43.50, 4½ hours, daily), Bunbury ($18.50, 1¾ hours, daily) and Busselton ($11.50, 30 minutes, three daily).
TranswaBUS
(%1300 662 205; www.transwa.wa.gov.au)
Coach SW1 (12 weekly) stops at the visitor centre, heading to/from East Perth ($40, 4½ hours), Bunbury ($14, 1¼ hours), Busselton ($8, 28 minutes), Margaret River ($9.55, 49 minutes) and Augusta ($17, 1¼ hours).
Cape Naturaliste
Northwest of Dunsborough, Cape Naturaliste Rd leads to the excellent beaches of Meelup, Eagle Bay and Bunker Bay, and on to Cape Naturaliste. Bunker Bay is also home to Bunkers Beach Cafe ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.bunkersbeachcafe.com.au; Farm Break Lane; breakfast $14-25, lunch $16-34; h8.30am-4pm), which serves an adventurous menu from a spot only metres from the sand.
The Cape Naturaliste lighthouse ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; adult/child $14/7; htours every 30min 9.30am-4pm), built in 1903, can be visited, and 'Above and Below' packages (adult/child $30/15) incorporate entry to Ngilgi Cave near Yallingup.
Margaret River Wine Region
With its blissful country roads, crashing surf beaches, and excellent chardonnays and Bordeaux-style reds, Margaret River is a highlight of any trip to WA. And where there's fine wine, there are vineyard restaurants, cheese shops, craft breweries, art galleries and craft stores.
Many tour companies operate in Margaret River; options include visiting wineries and breweries. More active alternatives to wine tasting include mountain biking, abseiling, rock climbing, sea kayaking and caving.
Margaret River Wine Region
1Sights
4Sleeping
5Eating
6Drinking & Nightlife
Yallingup & Around
Pop 1070
Beachside Yallingup is as much a mecca for salty-skinned surfers as it is for wine aficionados. You're permitted to let a 'wow' escape when the surf-battered coastline first comes into view. Romantics may be encouraged to know that the name Yallingup means 'place of love'.
1Sights & Activities
Wardan Aboriginal CentreCULTURAL EXPERIENCE, GALLERY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9756 6566; www.wardan.com.au; Injidup Springs Rd, Yallingup; experiences adult/child $20/10; h10am-4pm daily mid-Oct–mid-Mar, 10am-4pm Mon, Wed-Fri & Sun mid-Mar–mid-Jun & mid-Aug–mid-Oct, experiences Sun, Mon, Wed & Fri)S
Offers a window into the lives of the local Wardandi people. There's a gallery (free admission), an interpretive display on the six seasons that govern the Wardandi calendar (adult/child $8/3), and the opportunity to take part in various experiences including stone tool making, boomerang and spear throwing. A guided bushwalk explores Wardandi spirituality and the uses of various plants for food, medicine and shelter.
Ngilgi CaveCAVE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9755 2152; www.geographebay.com; Yallingup Caves Rd; adult/child $22/12; h9am-5pm)
Between Dunsborough and Yallingup, this 500,000-year-old cave is associated in Wardandi spirituality with the victory of the good spirit Ngilgi over the evil spirit Wolgine. To the Wardandi people it became a kind of honeymoon location. A European man first stumbled upon it in 1899 while looking for his horse. Formations include the white Mother of Pearl Shawl and the equally beautiful Arab's Tent and Oriental Shawl. Tours depart every half hour. Check online for other options.
Koomal DreamingGUIDED TOUR
(%0413 843 426; www.koomaldreaming.com.au; adult/child from $50/25)
Yallingup local and Wardandi man Josh Whiteland runs tours showcasing indigenous food, culture and music, usually also including bushwalking and exploration of the Ngilgi Cave.
4Sleeping & Eating
Yallingup Beach Holiday ParkCARAVAN PARK
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9755 2164; www.yallingupbeach.com.au; Valley Rd; sites per 2 people $38, cabins $115-165; W)
You'll sleep to the sound of the surf here, with the beach just across the road.
Wildwood Valley Cottages & Cooking SchoolCOTTAGE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9755 2120; www.wildwoodvalley.com.au; 1481 Wildwood Rd; cottages from $250; W)
Luxury cottages trimmed by native bush are arrayed across 49 hectares, and the property's main house also hosts the Mad About Food Cooking School with Sioban and Carlo Baldini. Sioban's CV includes cooking at Longrain and living in Tuscany, so the culinary emphasis is Thai or Italian. Cooking classes are $135 per person and usually run on a Wednesday.
oStudio BistroMODERN AUSTRALIAN
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9756 6164; www.thestudiobistro.com.au; 7 Marrinup Dr; small plates $15-20, mains $28-39, degustation menu with/without wine matches $135/95; h10am-5pm Thu-Mon, 6pm-late Fri & Sat; v)S
Studio Bistro's gallery focuses on Australian artists, while the garden restaurant showcases subtle dishes such as pan-fried fish with cauliflower cream, radicchio, peas and crab meat. Five-course degustation menus are offered on Friday and Saturday nights. Bookings recommended.
Wills DomainWINERY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.willsdomain.com.au; cnr Brash & Abbey Farm Rds; mains $29-40, charcuterie platters $38; htastings 10am-5pm, lunch noon-3pm)
Restaurant, gallery and wonderful hilltop views over vines. An innovative seven-course tasting menu (with/without wine match $139/99) is also available.
Cowaramup & Wilyabrup
Pop 990
Cowaramup is little more than a couple of blocks of shops lining Bussell Hwy. Nearby vineyards and gourmet food producers reinforce its tasty position at the heart of the wine region. The rustic area to the northwest known as Wilyabrup is where the Margaret River wine industry kicked off in the 1960s.
4Sleeping
Taunton Farm Holiday ParkCARAVAN PARK
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %1800 248 777; www.tauntonfarm.com.au; Bussell Hwy, Cowaramup; sites $42, cottages $115-175; W)
There are plenty of farm animals for the kids to meet at one of Margaret River's best family-oriented camping grounds. For caravan and tenting buffs, the amenities blocks are spotless, and also scattered about are farmstyle self-contained cottages.
Noble Grape GuesthouseB&B
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9755 5538; www.noblegrape.com.au; 29 Bussell Hwy, Cowaramup; s $140-160, d $145-190; aW)
Noble Grape is more like an upmarket motel than a traditional B&B. Rooms offer a sense of privacy and each has a verdant little garden courtyard.
5Eating & Drinking
ProvidoreDELI
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.providore.com.au; 448 Tom Cullity Dr, Wilyabrup; h9am-5pm)
Voted one of Australia's Top 100 Gourmet Experiences by Australian Traveller magazine – and, given its amazing range of artisan produce including organic olive oil, tapenades and preserved fruits, we can only agree. Look forward to loads of free samples.
Margaret River Chocolate CompanyCHOCOLATES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.chocolatefactory.com.au; Harman's Mill Rd; h9am-5pm)
Watch truffles being made and sample chocolate buttons.
Vasse FelixWINERY RESTAURANT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9756 5050; www.vassefelix.com.au; cnr Caves Rd & Harmans Rd S, Cowaramup; mains $32-39, 3-course menu $65, mains $32-39; hcellar door 10am-5pm, restaurant 10am-3pm)
Vasse Felix winery is considered by many to have the finest restaurant in the region, the big wooden dining room reminiscent of an extremely flash barn. The grounds are peppered with sculptures, while the gallery displaying works from the Holmes à Court collection is worth a trip in itself.
Cullen WinesWINERY RESTAURANT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9755 5277; www.cullenwines.com.au; 4323 Caves Rd, Cowaramup; mains $25-38; h10am-4pm)S
Grapes were first planted here in 1966 and Cullen has an ongoing commitment to organic and biodynamic principles in both food and wine. Celebrating a relaxed ambience, Cullen's food is excellent, with many of the fruit and vegetables from their own gardens.
Margaret River Regional Wine CentreWINE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.mrwines.com; 9 Bussell Hwy, Cowaramup; h10am-7pm)
A one-stop shop for Margaret River wine.
SURFING THE SOUTHWEST
The beaches between Capes Naturaliste and Leeuwin offer powerful reef breaks, mainly left-handers.
Around Dunsborough, the better locations are between Eagle and Bunker Bays. Near Yallingup there's Three Bears, Rabbits (a beach break north of Yallingup Beach), Yallingup, Injidup Car Park and Injidup Point. You'll need a 4WD to access Guillotine/Gallows, north of Gracetown. Also around Gracetown are Huzza's, South Point and Lefthanders.
The annual Drug Aware Pro (www.aspworldtour.com; hApr) surfing competition is held around Margaret River Mouth and Southside (aka 'Suicides').
Margaret River
Pop 4500
Although tourists might outnumber locals much of the time, Margaret River still feels like a country town. The advantage of basing yourself here is that after 5pm, once the surrounding wineries shut up shop, it's one of the few places with any vital signs.
Margaret River
5Eating
7Shopping
zFestivals & Events
Margaret River Gourmet EscapeFOOD & WINE
(www.gourmetescape.com.au; hlate Nov)
From Rick Stein and Heston Blumenthal to Masterchef's George Calombaris, the Gourmet Escape food and wine festival attracts the big names in global and Australian cuisine. Look forward to three days of food workshops, tastings, vineyard events and demonstrations. An inaugural added attraction in 2014 was a vineyard concert at Sandalford Estate featuring Kiwi music icon Neil Finn.
4Sleeping
oWharncliffe Mill Bush RetreatECO RETREAT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9758 8227; www.wharncliffemill.com.au; McQueen Rd, Bramley National Park; unpowered/powered sites $28/32, dm $25-30, safari tents & cabins $85-170; iW)S
Set amid shaded forests and around a former timber mill, Wharncliffe has accommodation ranging from simple shared dorms to safari tents and cosy wooden cabins. Solar power and sustainable environmental practices are encouraged, and there's plenty of excellent advice on local opportunities for bushwalking and mountain biking. Margaret River township is just 2km away, and mountain bikes can be hired (half/full day $15/25).
Margaret River LodgeHOSTEL
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9757 9532; www.margaretriverbackpackers.com.au; 220 Railway Tce; dm $30-32, r with/without bathroom $87/76; iWs)
About 1.5km southwest of the town centre, this clean, well-run hostel has a pool, volleyball court and football field. Dorms share a big communal kitchen, and a quieter area with private rooms has its own little kitchen and lounge.
Edge of the ForestMOTEL
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9757 2351; www.edgeoftheforest.com.au; 25 Bussell Hwy; r $160; aW)
Just a pleasant stroll from Margaret River township, the rooms here have all been recenty renovated with new bathrooms and a chic Asian theme. Friendly owners have lots of local recommendations, and the leafy shared garden is perfect for an end-of-day barbecue.
oBurnside Organic FarmBUNGALOWS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9757 2139; www.burnsideorganicfarm.com.au; 287 Burnside Rd; d $280-325; a)
Rammed-earth and limestone bungalows have spacious decks and designer kitchens, and the surrounding farm hosts a menagerie of animals and organic orchards. Guests can also pick vegetables from the garden. Welcome to the perfect private retreat after a day cruising the region's wine, beer and food highlights. Minimum two-night stay.
5Eating & Drinking
Margaret River Farmers MarketMARKET
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.margaretriverfarmersmarket.com.au; Lot 272 Bussell Hwy, Margaret River Education Campus; h8am-noon Sat)S
The region's organic and sustainable artisan producers come to town every Saturday. It's a top spot for breakfast. Check the website for your own foodie hit list.
Margaret River BakeryCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 89 Bussell Hwy; mains $10-18; h7am-4pm Mon-Sat; v)S
Elvis on the stereo, retro furniture, and kitsch needlework art – the MRB has a rustic, playful interior. It's the perfect backdrop to the bakery's honest home-style baking, often with a vege or gluten-free spin. Soak up the previous day's wine tasting with terrific burgers and pies.
LarderDELI
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.thelarder.biz; 2/99 Bussell Hwy; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat, 10.30am-4pm Sun)
Showcasing Margaret River produce and gourmet foods, The Larder also sells takeaway meals ($15 to $17) – a good option for dinner – and comprehensive breakfast packs, picnic hampers and barbecue fixings ($50 to $95). Occasional cooking classes complete the tasty menu.
Settler's TavernPUB FOOD
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.settlerstavern.com; 114 Bussell Hwy; mains $16-36; h11am-midnight Mon-Sat, to 10pm Sun)
There's live entertainment Thursday to Sunday at Settler's, so pop in for good pub grub and a beer or wine from the extensive list. Dinner options are limited in Margaret River, and Settler's is often wildly popular with locals and visitors. Try the mammoth Seafood Deluxe with a pint of the pub's own Great White Pale Ale.
Morries AnytimeCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.morries.com.au; 2/149 Bussell Hwy; tapas $11-16, mains $15-34; h7.30am-late)
Settle into the clubby, cosmopolitan atmosphere of Morrie's, either for breakfast or lunch, or later at night for cocktails and tapas or dinner. Local beers from Colonial Brewing are on tap, and the menu smartly channels both Asian and European flavours.
oMiki's Open KitchenJAPANESE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9758 7673; www.facebook.com/mikisopenkitchen; 131 Bussell Hwy; small plates $12-16, large plates $28-37; h6pm-late Tue-Sat)
Secure a spot around the open kitchen and enjoy the irresistible theatre of the Miki's team creating innovative Japanese spins on the best of WA seafood and produce. Combine a Margaret River wine with the $55 multicourse tasting menu for the most diverse experience, and settle in to watch the laidback Zen chefs work their tempura magic. Bookings recommended.
7Shopping
Tunbridge GalleryARTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.tunbridgegallery.com.au; 101 Bussell Hwy; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, to 3pm Sun)
Excellent Aboriginal art gallery featuring mainly WA works.
8Information
Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9780 5911; www.margaretriver.com; 100 Bussell Hwy; h9am-5pm)
Bookings and information plus displays on local wineries.
8Getting There & Away
South West Coach LinesBUS
(%08-9261 7600; www.transdevsw.com.au)
Buses between Busselton and Augusta (12 weekly) stop at Cowaramup and Margaret River, linking with Perth on the weekends.
TranswaBUS
(%1300 662 205; www.transwa.wa.gov.au)
Coach SW1 (12 weekly) from Perth to Augusta stops at Yallingup and Margaret River, with three coaches weekly continuing to Pemberton.
8Getting Around
Margaret River Beach BusBUS
(%08-9757 9532; www.margaretriverbackpackers.com.au)
Minibus linking the township and the beaches around Prevelly ($10, three daily); summer only, bookings essential.
GETTING CRAFTY IN MARGARET RIVER
The Margaret River region's wine credentials are impeccable, but the area is also a destination for craft beer fans. All of the following serve bar snacks and lunch.
Eagle Bay Brewing CoBREWERY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.eaglebaybrewing.com.au; Eagle Bay Rd, Dunsborough; h11am-5pm)
A lovely rural outlook, interesting beers and wines served in modern, spacious surroundings, and excellent food including crisp wood-fired pizzas ($20 to $24). Keep an eye out for Eagle Bay's Single Batch Specials.
Colonial Brewing CoBREWERY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.colonialbrewingco.com.au; Osmington Rd, Margaret River; h11am-6pm)
This modern microbrewery has great rural views, and an excellent range of authentic beers including a witbier (wheat beer) with coriander and mandarin, and a hop-fuelled India Pale Ale. Our favourite is the refreshing German-style kölsch.
Bush Shack BreweryBREWERY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.bushshackbrewery.com.au; Hemsley Rd, Yallingup; h10am-5pm)
A small-scale brewery in a great bush setting. A healthy addition of innovation results in interesting brews such as a chilli beer, a lemon-infused lager and a strawberry pale ale.
Bootleg BreweryBREWERY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.bootlegbrewery.com.au; off Yelverton Rd, Wilyabrup; h11am-6pm)
More rustic than some of the area's flasher breweries, but lots of fun with a pint in the sun – especially with live bands on Saturday. Try the award-winning Raging Bull Porter or the US West Coast–style Speakeasy IPA.
Cheeky Monkey BreweryBREWERY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cheekymonkeybrewery.com.au; 4259 Caves Rd, Margaret River; h10am-6pm)
Set on the edge of a pretty lake, Cheeky Monkey has an expansive restaurant and lots of room for the kids to run around. Try the Hatseller Pilsner with bold New Zealand hops or the Belgian-style Hagenbeck Pale Ale. Decent food and apple and pear ciders means you'll make a day of it.
Cowaramup Brewing CompanyBREWERY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cowaramupbrewing.com.au; North Treeton Rd, Cowaramup; h11am-5pm)
Modern microbrewey with an award-winning Pilsner and a moreish English-style Special Pale Ale. Four other beers and occasional seasonal brews also feature.
Around Margaret River
West of the township, the coastline provides spectacular surfing and walks. Prevelly is the main settlement, with a scattering of places to sleep and eat.
1Sights & Activities
CaveWorks & Lake CaveCAVE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.margaretriver.com; Conto Rd; single cave adult/child $22/10; h9am-5pm, Lake Cave tours hourly 9.30am-3.30pm)
The main ticket office for Lake, Mammoth and Jewel Caves, CaveWorks also has excellent displays about caves, cave conservation and local fossil discoveries. There's also an authentic model cave and a 'cave crawl' experience. Single cave tickets include entry to CaveWorks. The Grand Tour Pass (adult/child $55/24), covering CaveWorks and all three caves, is valid for seven days, while the Ultimate Pass (adult/child $70/30) also includes Cape Leeuwin lighthouse. CaveWorks is 20km south of Margaret River, off Caves Rd.
Mammoth CaveCAVE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.margaretriver.com; Caves Rd; adult/child $22/10; h9am-5pm)
Mammoth Cave boasts a fossilised jawbone of Zygomaturus trilobus, a giant wombatlike creature, as well as other fossil remains and the impressive Mammoth Shawl formation. Visits are self-guided; an MP3 audio player is provided.
Calgardup & Giants CavesCAVES
These two self-guided caves are managed by the Department of Environment and Conservation (DEC), which provides helmets and torches. Calgardup Cave ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Caves Rd; adult/child $15/8; h9am-4.15pm) has a seasonal underground lake and is an attractive illustration of the role of the caves in the ecosystem – a stream transports nutrients to the creatures living in the cave, while tree roots hang overhead. Giants Cave ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Caves Rd; adult/child $15/8; h9.30am-3.30pm school & public holidays only), further south, is deeper and longer and has some steep ladders and scrambles.
Eagles HeritageWILDLIFE RESERVE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9757 2960; www.eaglesheritage.com.au; adult/child $17/10; h10am-4.15pm Sat-Thu)
Housing Australia's largest collection of raptors, this centre, 5km south of Margaret River, rehabilitates many birds of prey each year. There are free-flight displays at 11am and 1.30pm.
Boranup DriveSCENIC DRIVE
This 14km diversion runs along an unsealed road through Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park's beautiful karri forest. Near the southern end there's a lookout offering sea views.
4Sleeping
SurfpointGUESTHOUSE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9757 1777; www.surfpoint.com.au; Reidle Dr, Gnarabup; s/d from $70/110; iWs)
This light and airy place offers the beach on a budget. The rooms are clean and well presented, and there's a very enticing little pool. Private rooms with bathroom facilities are good value.
oAcacia ChaletsCHALET
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9757 2718; www.acaciachalets.com.au; 113 Yates Rd; d $250-280; a)
Private bushland – complete with marsupial locals – conceals three luxury chalets that are well located to explore the region's vineyards, caves and rugged nearby coastline. Limestone walls and honey-coloured jarrah floors combine for some of the area's best self-contained accommodation. Spacious decks are equipped with gas barbecues.
5Eating & Drinking
Voyager EstateWINERY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9757 6354; www.voyagerestate.com.au; Stevens Rd; h10am-5pm, tours 11am Tue, Thu, Sat & Sun)
The formal gardens and Cape Dutch–style buildings delight at Voyager Estate, the grandest of Margaret River's wineries. Tours are available ($25 to $75 including tastings and lunch).
Leeuwin EstateWINERY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9759 0000; www.leeuwinestate.com.au; Stevens Rd; mains $31-39; h10am-5pm daily, dinner Sat)
Another impressive estate, with tall trees and lawns gently rolling down to the bush. Its Art Series Chardonnay is one of the best in the country. Behind-the-scenes wine tours and tastings take place at 11am (adult/child $12.50/4). Big open-air concerts are regularly held here.
Augusta & Around
Pop 1700
Augusta is positioned at the mouth of the Blackwood River, 5km north of Cape Leeuwin. There are a few vineyards scattered around, but the vibe here is less epicurean, more languid.
1Sights & Activities
Cape Leeuwin LighthouseLIGHTHOUSE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.margaretriver.com; adult/child $8/5; h9am-4.30pm)
Wild and windy Cape Leeuwin, where the Indian and Southern Oceans meet, is the most southwesterly point in Australia. It takes its name from a Dutch ship that passed here in 1622. The lighthouse (1896), WA's tallest, offers magnificent views of the coastline. Tours (adult/child $20/13) leave every 40 minutes from 9am to 4.20pm – expect a short wait during the holiday season. The Ultimate Pass (adult/child $70/30) incorporates admission to the lighthouse with Jewel, Lake and Mammoth Caves.
Jewel CaveCAVE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.margaretriver.com; Caves Rd; adult/child $22/10; htours hourly 9.30am-3.30pm)
The most spectacular of the region's caves, Jewel Cave has an impressive 5.9m straw stalactite, so far the longest seen in a tourist cave. Fossil remains of a Tasmanian tiger (thylacine), believed to be 3500 years old, were discovered here. It's located near the south end of Caves Rd, 8km northwest of Augusta. The Grand Tour Pass (adult/child $55/24) incorporates admission to the Jewel, Lake and Mammoth Caves.
Absolutely Eco River CruisesCRUISE
(%08-9758 4003; cdragon@westnet.com.au; adult/child $30/15; hOct-May)
Blackwood River; October to May.
Miss FlindersCRUISE
(%0409 377 809; adult/child $30/15; hOct-May)
Blackwood River; October to May.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hamelin Bay Holiday ParkCARAVAN PARK
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-9758 5540; www.hamelinbayholidaypark.com.au; Hamelin Bay West Rd; 2-person sites $28-45, cabins $90-220)
Absolute beachfront, northwest of Augusta, this secluded place gets very busy during holiday times.
Baywatch Manor YHAHOSTEL
(%08-9758 1290; www.baywatchmanor.com.au; 9 Heppingstone View, Augusta; dm $29, d with/without bathroom $93/73; iW)
Clean, modern rooms with creamy brick walls and pieces of antique furniture. There is a bay view from the deck and, in winter, a roaring fire in the communal lounge. Some doubles have compact balconies.
Deckchair GourmetCAFE
(Blackwood Ave, Augusta; mains $10-25; h8am-3pm Mon-Sat, to noon Sun; W)
Excellent coffee and good food. Try the bacon and egg wrap for breakfast.
8Information
Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(%08-9758 0166; www.margaretriver.com; cnr Blackwood Ave & Ellis St, Augusta; h9am-5pm)
Information and bookings.
Southern Forests
The tall forests of WA's southwest are simply magnificent, with towering gums (karri, jarrah, marri) sheltering cool undergrowth. Between the forests, small towns bear witness to the region's history of logging and mining. Many have redefined themselves as small-scale tourist centres where you can take walks, wine tours, canoe trips and trout- and marron-fishing expeditions.
Nannup
Pop 500
Nannup's historic weatherboard buildings and cottage gardens have an idyllic bush setting on the Blackwood River. The Noongar-derived name means 'a place to stop and rest', which indeed it still is, although it's also a good base for bushwalkers and canoeists. Blackwood River Canoeing (%08-9756 1209; www.blackwoodrivercanoeing.com; hire per day from $25) provides equipment, basic instruction and transfers for paddle-powered excursions.
Sporadic but persistent stories of sightings of a striped wolflike animal, dubbed the Nannup tiger, have led to hopes that a thylacine (Tasmanian tiger) may have survived in the surrounding bush (the last known one died at Hobart Zoo in 1936). Keep your camera handy and your eyes peeled!
The Nannup Music Festival (www.nannupmusicfestival.org) is held in early March, focusing on folk and world music.
4Sleeping & Eating
Caravan ParkCARAVAN PARK
(%08-9756 1211; www.nannupcaravanparks.com.au; sites $27-32)
This riverside caravan park has overflow camping at two other nearby sites.
Holberry HouseB&B
(%08-9756 1276; www.holberryhouse.com; 14 Grange Rd; r $140-190; Ws)
The decor might lean towards granny-chic, but this large house on the hill has charming hosts and comfortable rooms. It's surrounded by large gardens dotted with quirky sculptures (open to nonguests for $4).
Pickle & OCAFE
(16 Warren Rd; snacks $7-12; h10am-4pm; v)S
Good coffee, huge slabs of cheesecake, and smoked trout kebab wraps are all tasty reasons to stop in at this quirky combination of health food store and organic and sustainable cafe.
8Information
Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(%08-9756 1211; www.nannupwa.com; 4 Brockman St; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat, 10am-1pm Sun)
Administers the neighbouring caravan park.
Bridgetown
Pop 2400
Spread around the Blackwood River and surrounded by karri forests and farmland, Bridgetown is one of the loveliest little towns in the southwest. Despite being busy most weekends, and overrun with visitors on the second weekend of November during its annual Blues at Bridgetown Festival (www.bluesatbridgetown.com.au), it retains a community feel.
4Sleeping & Eating
Bridgetown Riverside ChaletsCHALET
(%08-9761 1040; www.bridgetownchalets.com.au; 1338 Brockman Hwy; chalets from $140)
On a rural riverside property, 5km up the road to Nannup, these four stand-alone wooden chalets (complete with pot-bellied stoves and washing machines) sleep up to six in two bedrooms.
The Barking CowCAFE
(88 Hampton St; breakfast $11-18, lunch $13-21; h8am-2.30pm Mon-Sat)
Colourful, cosy, and serving the best coffee in town, the Barking Cow is also worth stopping at for daily vegetarian specials and world-famous-in-Bridgetown gourmet burgers.
CideryCAFE
(www.thecidery.com.au; 43 Gifford Rd; mains $10-25; h11am-4pm Sat-Thu, to 8pm Fri)
Craft beer, cider and light lunches on outdoor tables by the river. On Friday nights from 5.30pm there's live music.
8Information
Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(%08-9761 1740; www.bridgetown.com.au; 154 Hampton St; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat, 10am-1pm Sun)
Includes apple-harvesting memorabilia.
WORTH A TRIP
MANJIMUP
To learn more about how the world's most expensive produce is harvested, follow your snout to the Truffle & Wine Co (%08-9777 2474; www.truffleandwine.com.au; Seven Day Rd, Manjimup; h10am-4pm, lunch noon-3pm). Join a 2½-hour truffle hunt with the clever clogs truffle-hunting Labradors on Saturday or Sunday from June to August (adult/child $60/30; book ahead). A three-course truffle-infused lunch ($65) is optional afterwards. Throughout the year, there's plenty of truffle products to sample, and the attached provedore and cafe serves up cheese and charcuterie platters, and coffee and cake. Manjimup is en route from Bridgetown to Pemberton; the turn-off to the Truffle & Wine Co is about 3km south of town.
Pemberton
Pop 760
Hidden deep in the karri forests, drowsy Pemberton has taken an epicurean turn, producing excellent wine that rivals Margaret River's for quality if not scale. Wine tourism isn't as developed here, with some of the better names only offering tastings by appointment; grab a free map listing opening hours from the visitor centre.
The national parks circling Pemberton are impressive. Aim to spend a day or two driving the Karri Forest Explorer, walking the trails and picnicking in the green depths.
2Activities
SalitageWINE TASTING
(%08-9776 1195; www.salitage.com.au; Vasse Hwy; h10am-4pm Fri-Tue)
Sailtage's pinot noir has been rated the state's best, while its chardonnay and sauvignon blanc are also very highly regarded. Hour-long vineyard tours leave at 11am; call ahead.
Pemberton TramwayTRAM RIDES
(%08-9776 1322; www.pemtram.com.au; adult/child $24/12; h10.45am & 2pm)
Built between 1929 and 1933, the route travels through lush karri and marri forests to Warren River. A commentary is provided and it's a fun – if noisy – 1¾-hour return trip.
Pemberton Wine CentreWINE TASTING
(www.marima.com.au; 388 Old Vasse Rd; hnoon-4pm Mon-Fri)
At the very heart of Warren National Park, this centre offers tastings of local wines and can compile a mixed case of your favourites.
WORTH A TRIP
KARRI FOREST EXPLORER
Punctuated by glorious walks, magnificent individual trees, picnic areas and lots of interpretive signage, this tourist drive wends its way along 86km of scenic (partly unsealed) roads through three national parks (vehicle entry $12).
Attractions include the Gloucester Tree; if you're feeling fit and fearless, make the 58m climb to the top. The Dave Evans Bicentennial Tree, tallest of the 'climbing trees' at 68m, is in Warren National Park, 11km south of Pemberton. The Bicentennial Tree one-way loop via Maiden Bush to the Heartbreak Trail passes through 250-year-old karri stands.
North of Pemberton, Big Brook Arboretum features big trees from all over the world.
The track loops on and off the main roads, so you can drive short sections at a time. Pick up a brochure from Pemberton's visitor centre.
TTours
Pemberton Hiking & CanoeingHIKING, CANOEING
(%08-9776 1559; www.hikingandcanoeing.com.au; half-/full day $50/100)S
Environmentally sound tours in Warren and D'Entrecasteaux National Parks and to the Yeagarup sand dunes. Specialist tours (wildflowers, frogs, rare fauna) are also available, as are night canoeing trips ($50) to spot nocturnal wildlife.
Pemberton Discovery Tours4WD, MOUNTAIN BIKING
(%08-9776 0484; www.pembertondiscoverytours.com.au; 12 Brockman St; adult/child $105/50)S
Half-day 4WD tours to the Yeagarup sand dunes and the Warren River mouth. Other tours focus on local vineyards, breweries and cideries, and the wild coastal scenery of D'Entrecasteaux National Park. Visit their central Pemberton location for local information and mountain-bike hire including details of nearby tracks and recommended rides.
Donnelly River CruisesBOAT TOUR
(%08-9777 1018; www.donnellyrivercruises.com.au; adult/child $65/35)S
Cruises through 12km of D'Entrecasteaux National Park to the cliffs of the Southern Ocean.
4Sleeping & Eating
Local culinary specialities are trout and marron.
Pemberton Backpackers YHAHOSTEL
(%08-9776 1105; www.yha.com.au; 7 Brockman St; dm/s/d $33/70/77; iW)
The main hostel is given over to seasonal workers, but you'll need to check in here for a room in the separate cottage (8 Dean St) that's set aside for travellers. It's cute and cosy, but book ahead as it only has three rooms, one of which is a six-person dorm.
Old Picture Theatre Holiday ApartmentsAPARTMENT
(%08-9776 1513; www.oldpicturetheatre.com.au; cnr Ellis & Guppy Sts; apt $160-210; aW)
The town's old cinema has been revamped into well-appointed, self-contained, spacious apartments with lots of jarrah detail and black-and-white movie photos. It offers good value for money and includes an on-site spa.
oForagersCOTTAGES
(%08-9776 1580; www.foragers.com.au; cnr Roberts & Northcliffe Rds; cottages $225-270; a)S
Choose between very nice, simple karri cottages, or leap to the top of the ladder with the luxury eco-chalets. The latter are light and airy, with elegant, contemporary decor, eco-conscious waste-water systems and a solar-passive design. You're also right on hand to enjoy culinary treats at the adjacent Foragers Field Kitchen.
Marima CottagesCOTTAGE
(%08-9776 1211; www.marima.com.au; 388 Old Vasse Rd; cottages $249-269)
Right in the middle of Warren National Park, these four country-style rammed-earth-and-cedar cottages with pot-bellied stoves and lots of privacy are luxurious getaways. Look forward to marsupial company at dusk.
Holy SmokeCAFE, SELF-CATERING
(www.holysmoke.com.au; Dickinson St; snacks $5-15; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri, from 9am Sat & Sun)
Good coffee and tasty cakes and toasted sandwiches adjacent to the excellent Pemberton Fine Woodcraft Gallery. Especially good are the tasting platters of Holy Smoke's smoked meats, fish and pâtés.
Foragers Field KitchenINTERNATIONAL
(%08-9776 1503; www.foragers.com.au; cnr Roberts & Northcliffe Rds; dinner $55-75)
Join renowned chef Sophie Zalokar at one of her regular Friday or Saturday set dinners – options could include wood-fired Italian dishes or seasonal four-course menus – or sign up for one of her cooking classes (usually on a Wednesday night). Check the website's events calendar for dates. Booking at least 48 hours ahead is preferred.
8Information
Department of Parks & WildlifeTOURIST INFORMATION
(%08-9776 1207; www.dpaw.wa.gov.au; Kennedy St; h8am-4.30pm)
Information on local parks and bushwalks.
Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(%08-9776 1133; www.pembertonvisitor.com.au; Brockman St; h9am-4pm)
Includes a pioneer museum and karri-forest discovery centre.