Great Ocean Road

Great Ocean Road

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Why Go?

The Great Ocean Road (B100) is one of Australia’s most famous road-touring routes. It takes travellers past world-class surfing breaks, through pockets of rainforest, calm seaside towns and under koala-filled tree canopies. It shows off sheer limestone cliffs, dairy farms and heathlands, and gets you up close and personal with the crashing waves of the Southern Ocean.

Hunt out the isolated beaches and lighthouses in between the towns, and the thick eucalypt forests in the Otway hinterlands to really escape the crowds. Rather than heading straight to the Great Ocean Road, a fork in the road in Geelong can take you the long, leisurely way there through the Bellarine Peninsula, which allows you to visit charming Queenscliff and wineries en route.

Day-tripping tourists from Melbourne rush in and out of the area in less than 12 hours but, in a perfect world, you’d spend at least a week here.

When to Go

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AMar Chill out to folk and roots tunes at the hugely popular Port Fairy Folk Festival.

AEaster Head to Bells Beach during the Rip Curl Pro to witness spectacular surfing action.

AJul Visit coastal towns midwinter for bright seascapes, cosy cafes and whale watching.

Great Ocean Road Highlights

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1 Counting the upstanding Twelve Apostles near Port Campbell.

2 Camping by beaches abutting the lighthouse and watching for koalas at Cape Otway.

3 Lapping up the resort-style living in Lorne.

4 Soaking up the best in coastal village life with a few nights in Port Fairy.

5 Shopping for surf gear and then taking a surf lesson at Torquay.

6 Checking out the seals at isolated and beautiful Cape Bridgewater.

7 Discovering one of Melbourne's favourite weekend escapes at lovely Queenscliff.

8 Keeping a lookout for whales off the coast of Warrnambool.

9 Reliving the legend of lives lost at haunting Loch Ard Gorge.

a Watching the waves roll in at Bells Beach.

Geelong & Bellarine Peninsula

Geelong

Pop 143,921

Geelong is Victoria’s second-largest centre, a proud, industrial town with an interesting history and pockets of charm. While Melburnians love to deride their city's little cousin as a boring backwater, and a new bypass means travellers can skip the city and head straight to the Great Ocean Road, the town is undergoing something of a makeover. It's centred around sparkling Corio Bay waterfront, and in its city centre heritage buildings from the boom days of the wool industry and the gold-rush era have now been converted into swanky restaurants and bars.

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Geelong

2Activities, Courses & Tours

4Sleeping

1Sights & Activities

Geelong WaterfrontWATERFRONT

( GOOGLE MAP )

Geelong's sparkling waterfront precinct is a great place to stroll, with plenty of restaurants set on scenic piers, plus historical landmarks, sculptures, swimming areas, playgrounds and grassy sections ideal for picnics. In summer you can cool off at popular Eastern Beach ( GOOGLE MAP ), which features a sandy beach and art deco bathing pavilion with classic European-style enclosed bay swimming, complete with diving boards, sunbathing area and toddler pool.

Geelong Art GalleryGALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.geelonggallery.org.au; Little Malop St; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm)icon-freeF

With over 4000 works in its collection, this excellent gallery has celebrated Australian paintings such as Eugene von Guérard’s View of Geelong and Frederick McCubbin’s 1890 A Bush Burial. Also exhibits contemporary works and has free tours on Saturday at 2pm.

National Wool MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-5272 4701; www.geelongaustralia.com.au/nwm; 26 Moorabool St; adult/child/family $8.25/4.50/25; icon-hoursgifh9.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun)

More interesting than it may sound, this museum showcases the importance of the wool industry in shaping Geelong economically, socially and architecturally – many of the grand buildings in the area are former wool-store buildings, including the museum's 1872 bluestone building. There’s a sock-making machine and a massive 1910 Axminster carpet loom that gets chugging on weekends.

Narana CreationsCULTURAL CENTRE

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-5241 5700; www.narana.com.au; 410 Torquay Rd, Grovedale; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat)

On the road to Torquay in Grovedale, on Geelong's far outskirts, this Aboriginal cultural centre has didgeridoo performances (or play it yourself), a boomerang-throwing gallery and a native garden. Daily tours are at 11am and 2pm, and its gift shop sells Indigenous books and music.

City Walking ToursWALKING TOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-5222 2900; 26 Moorabool St; tours $12)

Volunteer-led city tours show Geelong's historic architecture and landmarks. Prices include a ride on the waterfront carousel, tea and cake and two-for-one admission to the National Wool Museum. Book one day in advance.

4Sleeping

Irish Murphy'sHOSTEL

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-5221 4335; www.irishmurphysgeelong.com.au; 30 Aberdeen St, Geelong West; dm/s/d $40/45/80; icon-parkgifpicon-wifigifW)

Upstairs from an Irish pub, Geelong's only backpackers hostel is a family-owned affair with clean dorms, most of which only have two beds – a good deal. Guests also get 20% off pub meals downstairs. It's a short walk from the city, Pakington St and Geelong station.

Gatehouse on RyrieGUESTHOUSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0417 545 196; www.gatehouseonryrie.com.au; 83 Yarra St; d incl breakfast $110-145; icon-parkgifpicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

Geelong's best midrange choice, this guesthouse was built in 1897 and has gorgeous timber floorboards throughout, spacious rooms (most with shared facilities) and a communal kitchen and lounge area. Breakfast is in the glorious front room.

5Eating & Drinking

Geelong Boat HouseFISH & CHIPS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Geelong Waterfront; fish & chips from $8.50; icon-hoursgifh10am-8pm)

Jutting out into the water, this fish-and-chip joint is built on top of a barge once used to dredge the Yarra River. Grab a chair on the deck or rooftop, or laze on one of its picnic blankets on the grassy banks. There's also a seafood restaurant in its attached boat shed.

icon-top-choiceoJack & JillMODERN AUSTRALIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-5229 9935; www.jackandjillrestaurant.com.au; 247 Moorabool St; tasting plates from $33.50; icon-hoursgifh6pm-late daily, noon-2.30pm Fri)

Choose three small dishes from the menu of regional produce (perhaps local Barwon lamb and couscous filo parcel with lemon yoghurt and pomegranate molasses) and they’ll all be served to you on one plate. Upstairs has a rooftop beer garden with top craft beers. Roll the dice Fridays for free drinks between 5pm and 6.30pm. Also has regular live music.

icon-top-choiceoLittle Creatures BreweryBREWERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-5202 4009; www.littlecreatures.com.au; cnr Fyans & Swanston Sts; icon-hoursgifh11am-5pm Mon-Tue, 11am-9pm Wed-Fri, 8am-9pm Sat, 8am-5pm Sun; icon-wifigifW)

Geelong is the newest addition to the growing Little Creatures beer empire. Within an old red-brick wool mill and kitted out in an industrial-warehouse feel, this is a cracking place to sample its brews with a thin-crust pizza ($10 to $23) or seared kangaroo skewers.

Tours of the brewery operate a few times a day and include free tastings. Kids will love the sandboxes and room to run around.

8Information

National Wool Museum Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.visitgreatoceanroad.org.au; 26 Moorabool St; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm; icon-wifigifW)

Geelong's main tourist information office has brochures on Geelong, the Bellarine Peninsula and the Otways, as well as free wi-fi. There's also a visitor centre (www.visitgreatoceanroad.org.au; Princes Hwy; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm) on Geelong Rd, at the service station near Little River, for those heading directly to the Great Ocean Road.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Jetstar (icon-phonegif%13 15 38; www.jetstar.com) has services to/from Avalon Airport. Avalon Airport Shuttle (icon-phonegif%03-5278 8788; www.avalonairportshuttle.com.au) meets all flights at Avalon Airport and goes to Geelong (adult/child $18/14, 35 minutes) and along the Great Ocean Road to Lorne ($32/26, 1¾ hours).

Bus

Gull Airport ServiceBUS

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-5222 4966; www.gull.com.au; 45 McKillop St)

Has 14 services a day between Geelong and Melbourne Airport ($32, 1¼ hours) from the city centre and Geelong station.

McHarry's BuslinesBUS

(icon-phonegif%03-5223 2111; www.mcharrys.com.au)

Runs frequent buses from Geelong station to Torquay and the Bellarine Peninsula ($3.60, 20 minutes).

V/LineBUS

(icon-phonegif%1800 800 007; www.vline.com.au)

Buses run from Geelong station to Apollo Bay ($16.80, 2½ hours, four daily) via Torquay ($3.60, 25 minutes), Anglesea ($5.60, 45 minutes), Lorne ($10.40, 1½ hours) and Wye River ($12.80, two hours). On Monday, Wednesday and Friday a bus continues to Port Campbell ($29.20, five hours) and Warrnambool ($33, 6½ hours), which involves a change at Apollo Bay.

The train is a much quicker and cheaper option for those heading direct to Warrnambool, though you'll miss out on the Great Ocean Road experience.

Car

The 25km Geelong Ring Road runs from Corio to Waurn Ponds, bypassing Geelong entirely. To get to Geelong city, be careful not to miss the Princes Hwy (M1) from the left lanes.

Train

V/LineTRAIN

(icon-phonegif%1800 800 007; www.vline.com.au)

V/Line trains run frequently from Geelong station to Melbourne’s Southern Cross Station (from $7.80, one hour). Trains also head from Geelong to Warrnambool ($22.80, 2½ hours, three daily).

Great Ocean Road Distances & Times

Route Distance Time
Melbourne–Geelong 75km 1hr
Geelong–Torquay 21km 15-20min
Torquay–Anglesea 16km 15min
Anglesea–Aireys Inlet 10km 10min
Aireys Inlet–Lorne 19km 20min
Lorne–Apollo Bay 45km 1hr
Apollo Bay–Port Campbell 96km 1½hr
Port Campbell–Warrnambool 66km 1hr
Warrnambool–Port Fairy 28km 20min
Port Fairy–Portland 72km 1hr
Portland–Melbourne via Great Ocean Road 440km/via Hamilton Hwy 358km 6½hr/4¼hr

Bellarine Peninsula

Queenscliff

Pop 1418

Historic Queenscliff is a lovely spot, popular with day-tripping and overnighting Melburnians who come to stroll its heritage streetscapes and soak up its nautical atmosphere. The views across the Port Phillip Heads and Bass Strait are glorious.

1Sights & Activities

Fort QueenscliffHISTORIC SITE

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-5258 1488, for midweek tours 0403 193 311; www.fortqueenscliff.com.au; cnr Gellibrand & King Sts; adult/child/family $10/5/25; icon-hoursgifh1pm & 3pm Sat & Sun, daily school holidays)

Queensliff's fort was first used as a coastal defence in 1882 to protect Melbourne from a feared Russian invasion. It remained a base until 1946, before being used as the Army Staff College until late 2012; today it functions as the defence archive centre. The 30-minute guided tours take in the military museum, magazine, cells and its twin lighthouses. Bring ID for entry.

Bellarine Peninsula RailwayTRAIN

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-5258 2069; www.bellarinerailway.com.au; Queenscliff train station; Drysdale return adult/child/family $30/20/70, Lakers Siding $15/12/40; icon-hoursgifhdeparts 11am & 2.45pm Sun, plus Tue & Thu during school holidays)

Run by a group of cheerful volunteer steam-train tragics, the railway has beautiful heritage steam and diesel trains that ply the 1¾-hour return journey to Drysdale, with one daily trip to Lakers Siding (33 minutes return), leaving Queenscliff at 1.15pm..

Sea-All Dolphin SwimsWILDLIFE WATCHING

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-5258 3889; www.dolphinswims.com.au; Queenscliff Harbour; sightseeing adult/child $75/65, 3½hr snorkel $140/120; icon-hoursgifh8am & 1pm Oct-Apr)

Offers sightseeing tours and swims with seals and dolphins in Port Phillip Bay. Seal sightings are guaranteed; dolphins aren't always seen, but there's a good chance.

TTours

The visitor centre hands out the free Queenscliff – A Living Heritage booklet for self-guided tours around town.

Queenscliff Heritage WalkWALKING TOUR

(icon-phonegif%03-5258 4843; incl afternoon tea $12)

The visitor centre runs the 1¼-hour guided Queenscliff Heritage Walk at 2pm each Saturday, or by appointment, taking in the town's historic buildings.

zFestivals & Events

Queenscliff Music FestivalMUSIC

(icon-phonegif%03-5258 4816; www.qmf.net.au)

One of the coast's best festivals features big-name Australian musos with a folksy, bluesy bent. Held late November.

Blues TrainMUSIC

(www.thebluestrain.com.au; tickets $97.70)

Get your foot tapping with irregular train trips that feature rootsy music and meals. Check the website for dates and artists.

4Sleeping

Athelstane HouseBOUTIQUE HOTEL

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-5258 1024; www.athelstane.com.au; 4 Hobson St; r incl breakfast $160-270; icon-wifigifW)

Athelstane House has comfortable rooms with some period touches and corner spa baths in a beautifully kept historic building. Its restaurant will keep you well fed and there's a lovely verandah for warmer nights.

Queenscliff HotelHOTEL

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-5258 1066; www.queenscliffhotel.com.au; 16 Gellibrand St; d from $149; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifi)

Classified by the National Trust, this is a superb, authentically old-world luxury hotel. Small Victorian-style rooms have no telephones or TVs, and bathrooms are shared. You can relax in the comfortable guest lounges, or dine and drink at the wonderful restaurant and bar.

icon-top-choiceoVue GrandHOTEL

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-5258 1544; www.vuegrand.com.au; 46 Hesse St; std/turret r incl breakfast from $200/400)

The Vue has everything from standard pub rooms to its modern turret suite (boasting 360-degree views) and bay-view rooms (with free-standing baths in the lounge). If you can’t get the room, the turret-level deck is a fine spot for a beverage or two on a sunny day.

5Eating & Drinking

Athelstane HouseMODERN AUSTRALIAN

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-5258 1024; www.athelstane.com.au; 4 Hobson St; mains $28-34; icon-hoursgifh6-9pm Mon-Fri, noon-2pm & 6-9pm Sat & Sun, 8am-9pm daily in summer)

Eat inside this lovely heritage home, or on the pretty garden deck, and choose from a varied menu that ranges from Queensland tiger prawn linguine or roasted duck breast to lighter open sandwiches.

Café GustoCAFE

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-5258 3604; 25 Hesse St; mains $12-26; icon-hoursgifh8.30am-4pm)

A favourite Queenscliff eatery that's great for breakfast, with a spacious garden courtyard out the back. The service can struggle a little when things get busy, but the food's good and the setting is worth the wait.

Vue GrandMODERN AUSTRALIAN

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-5258 1544; www.vuegrand.com.au; 46 Hesse St; 2-/3-course meal $59/79, 5-course Bellarine tasting menu without/with wine or beers $95/145; icon-hoursgifh6-9pm Wed-Sat)

The grande dame of Queenscliff dining, the stately Vue Grand serves up fabulous dishes such as lamb back strap with saffron, fennel, pomegranate and whipped feta, backed up by a splendid wine and beer menu. The Bellarine tasting menu is a fine journey around the peninsula, with local-produce-heavy dishes matched with local wine or beers.

Tables can be hard to come by on weekends.

WORTH A TRIP

BELLARINE FOODIE DETOUR

The Bellarine Peninsula has a growing reputation as a gourmet food region, with a particular focus on wines. With over 50 wineries in the Bellarine and Geelong area, it's known for its cool-climate pinot, shiraz and chardonnay. You could easily spend a lazy couple of days exploring the region. For a list of wineries, check out www.winegeelong.com.au, while visitor centres across the region can help you with suggestions.

Bellarine Taste TrailTOURIST INFORMATION

(www.thebellarinetastetrail.com.au)

Combine a winery hop with the Bellarine Taste Trail, which builds itineraries around mostly artisan gourmet-food producers, and you've got yourself a fantastic day out.

8Information

Queenscliff visitors centreTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-5258 4843; www.queenscliffe.vic.gov.au; 55 Hesse St; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm)

Plenty of brochures, with free internet access next door at the library.

8Getting There & Away

From Melbourne, Queenscliff (and the rest of the Bellarine Peninsula) is easily accessible via the Princes Fwy (M1) to Geelong. Rather than taking the Geelong bypass, head through Geelong to the Bellarine Hwy (B110).

Queenscliff–Sorrento FerryFERRY

(icon-phonegif%03-5258 3244; www.searoad.com.au; one way foot passenger adult/child $11/8, 2 adults & car $73; icon-hoursgifhhourly 7am-6pm)

Ferries run between Queenscliff and Sorrento (40 minutes); until 7pm at peak times.

Great Ocean Road

Torquay

Pop 13,339

In the 1960s and '70s Torquay was just another sleepy seaside town. Back then, surfing in Australia was a decidedly counter-cultural pursuit, its devotees crusty hippy dropouts living in clapped-out Kombis, smoking pot and making off with your daughters. These days it's become unabashedly mainstream and the town’s proximity to world-famous Bells Beach, and status as home of two iconic surf brands – Rip Curl and Quicksilver, both initially wetsuit makers – ensures Torquay’s place as the undisputed capital of the Australian surf industry.

1Sights & Activities

Torquay’s beaches lure everyone from kids in floaties to backpacker surf-school pupils. Fisherman’s Beach, protected from ocean swells, is the family favourite. Ringed by shady pines and sloping lawns, the Front Beach beckons lazy bums, while surf lifesavers patrol the frothing Back Beach during summer. Famous surf beaches include nearby Jan Juc, Winki Pop and, of course, Bells Beach.

Surf World MuseumMUSEUM

(www.surfworld.com.au; Surf City Plaza; adult/child/family $12/8/30; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm)

The perfect starting point for those embarking on a surfing safari, this well-curated museum pays homage to Australian surfing, from Simon Anderson's ground-breaking 1981 thruster to Mark Richard's board collection and, most notably, Australia's Surfing Hall of Fame. It's full of great memorabilia (including Duke Kahanamoku's wooden longboard), videos and displays on surfing culture through the 1960s to '80s.

Go Ride a WaveSURFING

(icon-phonegif%1300 132 441; www.gorideawave.com.au; 1/15 Bell St; 2hr lesson incl hire $65)

Hires surfing gear, sells secondhand equipment and offers lessons (cheaper with advance booking).

Torquay Surfing AcademySURFING

(icon-phonegif%03-5261 2022; www.torquaysurf.com.au; 34a Bell St; 2hr group/private lessons $60/180)

Serious surf school.

Westcoast Surf SchoolSURFING

(icon-phonegif%03-5261 2241; www.westcoastsurfschool.com; 2hr lesson $60)

Reputable Westcoast Surf School offers surf lessons and board hire.

ORGANISED TOURS

Go West ToursBUS TOUR

(icon-phonegif%1300 736 551; www.gowest.com.au; tour $125)

Full-day tours visit Bells Beach, koalas in the Otways and Port Campbell, returning back to Melbourne. Free wi-fi on bus.

Otway Discovery TourBUS TOUR

(icon-phonegif%03-9629 5844; www.greatoceanroadtour.com.au; 1/2/3-day tour $99/249/355)

Very affordable Great Ocean Road tours. The two-day tours include Phillip Island, while the three-day version takes in the Grampians.

Ride ToursTOUR

(icon-phonegif%1800 605 120; www.ridetours.com.au; tour $210)

Two-day, one-night trips along the Great Ocean Road.

Great Ocean Road Surf ToursSURFING

(icon-phonegif%1800 787 353; www.gorsurftours.com.au; 106 Surf Coast Hwy)

Multi-day surf trips down the coast from $309, including accommodation in Torquay.

4Sleeping

Bells Beach BackpackersHOSTEL

(icon-phonegif%03-5261 4029; www.bellsbeachbackpackers.com.au; 51-53 Surfcoast Hwy; dm/d from $26/80; icon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

On the main highway, this friendly backpackers does a great job of fitting into the fabric of this surf town, with board hire, daily surf reports and a good collection of surf videos. Its basic rooms are clean and in good nick.

Woolshed B&BB&B

(icon-phonegif%0408 333 433; www.thewoolshedtorquay.com.au; 75 Aquarius Ave; apt incl breakfast $275; icon-acongifaicon-swimgifs)

Set on a gorgeous farm on Torquay's outskirts, this century-old woolshed has been converted into a gorgeous open and airy space with two bedrooms. It sleeps up to six, and guests can use the pool and tennis court. Book well in advance.

5Eating & Drinking

Cafe MobyCAFE

(icon-phonegif%03-5261 2339; www.cafemoby.com; 41 Esplanade; mains $12-18; icon-hoursgifh7am-4pm; icon-wifigifW)

This old weatherboard house on the Esplanade harks back to a time when Torquay was simple, which is not to say its meals aren't modern: fill up on a linguini or honey-roasted lamb souvlaki. There’s a whopping great playground out the back for kids.

Bottle of MilkBURGERS, BAR

(icon-phonegif%0456 748 617; www.thebottleofmilk.com; 24 Bell St; burgers from $10; icon-hoursgifh10.30am-late)

Trading off the success of its Lorne branch, Bottle of Milk's winning formula of burgers, beaches and beers makes it rightfully popular. There's a beer garden, too, and excellent coffee.

7Shopping

A smorgasbord of surf shops lines Torquay's main thoroughfare, from big brands to local board shapers. For bargains head down Baines Cres alongside Surf City Plaza for discount surf seconds.

8Information

Torquay Visitor Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

(www.greatoceanroad.org; Surf City Plaza, Beach Rd; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm)

Torquay has a well-resourced tourist office next to Surf World Museum. There's free wi-fi and internet available at the library next door.

8Getting There & Away

Torquay is 15 minutes' drive south of Geelong on the B100.

Bus

McHarry's BuslinesBUS

(icon-phonegif%03-5223 2111; www.mcharrys.com.au)

Runs buses hourly from 9am to 8pm (around 5pm weekends) from Geelong to Torquay ($3.60, 30 minutes).

V/LineBUS

(icon-phonegif%1800 800 007; www.vline.com.au)

Buses run six times daily Monday to Friday (two on weekends) from Geelong to Torquay ($3.60, 25 minutes).

DON'T MISS

BELLS BEACH & POINT ADDIS

The Great Ocean Road officially begins on the stretch between Torquay and Anglesea. A slight detour takes you to famous Bells Beach, the powerful point break that is part of international surfing folklore (it was here, in name only, that Keanu Reeves and Patrick Swayze had their ultimate showdown in the film Point Break). When the long right hander is working, it’s one of the longest rides in the country.

Since 1973, Bells has hosted the Rip Curl Pro (www.aspworldtour.com) every Easter. The world championship ASP tour event draws thousands to watch the world’s best surfers carve up the big autumn swells – waves have reached 5m during the contest! The Rip Curl Pro occasionally decamps to Johanna Beach, two hours west, when fickle Bells isn’t working.

Nine kilometres southwest of Torquay is the turn-off to spectacular Point Addis, a vast sweep of pristine clothing-optional beach that attracts surfers, nudists, hang-gliders and swimmers. The signposted Koorie Cultural Walk is a 1km circuit trail to the beach through the Ironbark Basin nature reserve.

Anglesea

Pop 2454

Mix sheer orange cliffs falling into the ocean with hilly, tree-filled 'burbs and a population that booms in summer and you’ve got Anglesea, where sharing fish and chips with seagulls by the Anglesea River is a decades-long family tradition for many.

The new Geelong bypass has reduced the time it takes to drive from Melbourne to Anglesea to around 75 minutes.

1Sights & Activities

Main Beach is the ideal spot to learn to surf, while sheltered Point Roadknight Beach is good for families.

Anglesea Golf ClubGOLF

(icon-phonegif%03-5263 1582; www.angleseagolfclub.com.au; Noble St; 9 holes from $25; icon-hoursgifhclubhouse 8am-midnight)

You can watch kangaroos graze on the fairways from the big glass windows at the clubhouse here, or, even better, pair your sightings with a round of golf.

Go Ride a WaveSURFING

(icon-phonegif%1300 132 441; www.gorideawave.com.au; 143b Great Ocean Rd; 2hr lessons from $65, board hire from $25; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm)

Long-established surf school that runs lessons and hires out boards, SUPs and kayaks.

4Sleeping

Anglesea BackpackersHOSTEL

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-5263 2664; www.angleseabackpackers.com; 40 Noble St; dm from $35, d $95-115, f $150; icon-internetgifi)

While most hostels like to cram 'em in, this simple, homely backpackers has just two dorm rooms and one double/triple, and is clean, bright and welcoming. In winter the fire glows warmly in the cosy living room.

Anglesea RivergumsB&B

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-5263 3066; www.anglesearivergums.com.au; 10 Bingley Pde; d $125-160; icon-acongifa)

Tucked in by the river with tranquil views, these two spacious, tastefully furnished rooms (there's a self-contained bungalow and a room attached to the house) are excellent value.

5Eating

icon-top-choiceoUber MamaMODERN AUSTRALIAN

(icon-phonegif%03-5263 1717; www.ubermama.com.au; 113 Great Ocean Rd; mains $19-33; icon-hoursgifhnoon-3pm & 6-9pm Thu-Sat, 9am-3pm Sun)

An example of the subtle revolution sweeping the kitchens of regional Australia, Uber Mama does modern Aussie cooking with Asian inflections that's creative without straying too far from local roots. Try the shared plates such as baked Otway brie or seared scallops with prosciutto, or classic fish and chips for a main.

Locanda Del MareITALIAN

(icon-phonegif%03-5263 2904; 5 Diggers Pde; mains $19.50-25; icon-hoursgifhfrom 6pm Thu-Mon summer, from 6pm Thu-Sun winter)

Don't be deceived by its ugly exterior; this authentic Italian restaurant, hidden behind Anglesea’s petrol station, gets rave reviews, especially for its wonderful desserts.

8Information

Anglesea Visitor Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

(Great Ocean Rd; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm)

Located opposite Angahook Cafe, this new information centre sits beside an equally new BBQ area.

Aireys Inlet & Around

Pop 1071

Aireys Inlet is midway between Anglesea and Lorne, and is home to glorious stretches of beach, including Fairhaven and Moggs Creek. Ask at the visitor centre for great coastal walks around here.

1Sights & Activities

icon-top-choiceoSplit Point LighthouseLIGHTHOUSE

(icon-phonegif%03-5263 1133; www.splitpointlighthouse.com.au; 45min tours adult/child/family $14/8/40; icon-hoursgifhtours hourly 11am-2pm, summer holidays 10am-4pm)

Scale the 136 steps to the top of the beautiful 'White Queen' lighthouse for sensational 360-degree views. Built in 1891, the 34m-high lighthouse is still operational (though now fully automated). It's only accessible by booking a tour.

Blazing SaddlesHORSE RIDING

(icon-phonegif%03-5289 7322; www.blazingsaddlestrailrides.com; Lot 1 Bimbadeen Dr; 1/2½hr rides $50/100)

People come from around the world to hop on a Blazing Saddles horse and head along the stunning beach or into the bush.

4Sleeping & Eating

icon-top-choiceoCimarron B&BB&B

(icon-phonegif%03-5289 7044; www.cimarron.com.au; 105 Gilbert St; d $150-175; icon-wifigifW)

Built in 1979 from local timbers and using only wooden pegs and shiplap joins, Cimarron is an idyllic getaway with views over Point Roadknight. The large lounge area has book-lined walls and a cosy fireplace, while upstairs are two unique, loft-style doubles with vaulted timber ceilings; otherwise there’s a den-like apartment. Out back, it’s all state park and wildlife.

Gay friendly, but no kids.

icon-top-choiceoA La GrecqueGREEK

(icon-phonegif%03-5289 6922; www.alagrecque.com.au; 60 Great Ocean Rd; mains $22-35; icon-hoursgifh9-11.30am, 12.30-2.30pm & 6-10pm daily Dec-Mar, Wed-Sun Apr, May & Sep-Nov)

Be whisked away to the Mediterranean at this outstanding modern Greek taverna. Mezze such as seared scallops or braised cuttlefish with apple, celery and a lime dressing, and mains such as grilled pork shoulder are sensational.

Aireys PubPUB

(icon-phonegif%03-5289 6804; www.aireyspub.com.au; 45 Great Ocean Rd; mains $20-34; icon-hoursgifhnoon-late; icon-wifigifW)

Established in 1904, this pub is a survivor, twice burning to the ground before closing its doors in 2011, only to be saved by a bunch of locals chipping in to save it. Now it's better than ever, with a fantastic kitchen (try the kangaroo burger), roaring fire, sprawling beer garden, live music and its own Aireys draught beer.

WORTH A TRIP

BRAE AT BIRREGURRA

icon-top-choiceoBraeMODERN AUSTRALIAN

(icon-phonegif%03-5236 2226; www.braerestaurant.com; 4285 Cape Otway Rd, Birregurra; 8-course tasting plates per person $180, plus matched wines $120; icon-hoursgifhnoon-3pm Fri-Mon, from 6pm Thu-Sun)

Given the success chef Dan Hunter had at the Royal Mail Hotel in Dunkeld, the Birregurra tourism guys must've been licking their lips for several reasons when they heard he was moving to their town to open his new restaurant. Brae takes over from the much-loved Sunnybrae, with its farmhouse getting a refit by renowned architects Six Degrees.

The restaurant uses whatever is growing in its 12 hectares of organic gardens. Reservations are essential, well in advance. Future plans include boutique accommodation on-site.

It's located in the small historic town of Birregurra, between Colac and Lorne.

Lorne

Pop 1046

Lorne has an incredible natural beauty, something you see vividly as you drive into town from Aireys Inlet: tall old gum trees line its hilly streets, and Loutit Bay gleams irresistibly. It’s this beauty that has attracted visitors for generations. It gets busy; in summer you’ll be competing with day trippers for restaurant seats and lattes, but, thronged by tourists or not, it's a lovely place to hang out.

1Sights & Activities

Kids will love the beachside swimming pool, trampolines and skate park. There's more than 50km of bushwalking tracks around Lorne, taking in lush forests and waterfalls – pick up the Lorne Walks & Waterfalls brochure from the visitor centre.

Erskine FallsWATERFALL

( GOOGLE MAP ; Erskine Falls Access Rd)

Head out of town to see this lovely waterfall. It’s an easy walk to the viewing platform, or 250 (often slippery) steps down to its base, from where you can explore further or head back on up.

Southern ExposureWATER SPORTS

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-5261 9170; www.southernexposure.com.au; 2hr surf lesson $75)

Offers surfing lessons, and is big on kayaking and mountain biking.

zFestivals & Events

Falls FestivalMUSIC

(www.fallsfestival.com; 2/3/4-day tickets $320/390/433; icon-hoursgifhDec 28-Jan 1)

A four-day knees-up over New Year’s on a farm just out of town, this stellar music festival attracts a top line-up of international rock and indie groups. Past headliners have included Iggy Pop, Spiderbait, Kings of Leon and the Black Keys. Sells out fast, and tickets include camping.

Pier to Pub SwimSPORTS

(www.lornesurfclub.com.au)

This popular event in January inspires up to 4500 swimmers to splash 1.2km across Loutit Bay to the Lorne Hotel. It’s a photo opportunity for local politicians and celebrities.

4Sleeping

Great Ocean Road BackpackersHOSTEL

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-5289 1070; http://greatoceanroadcottages.com; 10 Erskine Ave; dm/d $35/90; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

Tucked away in the bush among the cockatoos, koalas and other wildlife, this two-storey timber lodge has dorms and good-value doubles. Unisex bathrooms take some getting used to. Also has pricier A-frame cottages that come with kitchens and en suite.

Grand Pacific HotelHOTEL

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-5289 1609; www.grandpacific.com.au; 268 Mountjoy Pde; d/apt from $130/180; icon-wifigifW)

An iconic Lorne landmark, harking back to 1875, the Grand Pacific has been restored with a sleek modern decor that retains some classic period features. The best rooms have balconies and stunning sea views looking out to the pier. Plainer rooms are boxy, but still top value, and there are self-contained apartments, too.

QdosRYOKAN

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-5289 1989; www.qdosarts.com; 35 Allenvale Rd; r incl breakfast from $250; icon-wifigifW)

The perfect choice for those seeking a romantic getaway or forest retreat, Qdos' luxury Zen treehouses are fitted with tatami mats, rice-paper screens and no TV. Two-night minimum; no kids.

5Eating

Bottle of MilkBURGERS

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-5289 2005; www.thebottleofmilk.com; 52 Mountjoy Pde; burgers from $12; icon-hoursgifh8am-3pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun, 8am-9pm Nov-Feb)

With a menu of 24 inventive burgers, all stacked with fresh ingredients, it's hard to go wrong at this popular hang-out on the main strip.

Lorne Beach PavilionMODERN AUSTRALIAN

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-5289 2882; www.lornebeachpavilion.com.au; 81 Mountjoy Pde; breakfast & lunch mains $9-20, dinner $25-37; icon-hoursgifh8am-9pm)

With its unbeatable spot on the foreshore, life here is literally a beach, especially with a cold beer in hand. Come at happy hour for 1kg of mussels for $10 and two-for-one cocktails. Cafe-style breakfasts and lunches are tasty, while a more upmarket Modern Australian menu is on for dinner.

ArabCAFE

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-5289 1435; 94 Mountjoy Pde; mains $19-26; icon-hoursgifh7am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 9.30pm Sat & Sun)

Arab started as a beatnik coffee lounge in 1956, and single-handedly transformed Lorne from a daggy family-holiday destination into a place for groovers and shakers. It’s been trading ever since, and still hits the spot for coffee and all-day breakfasts.

8Information

Lorne Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1300 891 152; www.visitgreatoceanroad.org.au/lorne; 15 Mountjoy Pde; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm; icon-wifigifW)

Stacks of information (including walking maps), helpful staff, fishing licences, bus tickets and accommodation booking service. Also has internet access and free wi-fi.

8Getting There & Away

V/LineBUS

(www.vline.com.au)

V/Line buses pass through daily from Geelong ($10.40, 1½ hours) en route to Apollo Bay ($4.40, one hour).

WHERE TO SEE WILDLIFE

The Great Ocean Road is not just one of the world's best road trips. It's also one of the best places in Australia to see wildlife.

KANGAROOS

Anglesea Golf Club

Tower Hill Reserve (15km west of Warrnambool). Also good for emus and koalas.

PLATYPUS

Lake Elizabeth (7km from Forrest, which is a 30-minute drive from Apollo Bay). Contact Otway Eco Tours (icon-phonegif%0419 670 985; www.platypustours.net.au; adult/child $85/50).

KOALAS

Kennett River (especially behind the caravan park)

Cape Otway (along the road between the main highway and the lighthouse)

SOUTHERN RIGHT WHALES

Warrnambool (May to September)

Portland (May to September)

BLACK WALLABIES

Battery Hill

Port Fairy

Apollo Bay

Pop 1094

One of the larger towns along the Great Ocean Road, Apollo Bay has a tight-knit community of fisherfolk, artists, musicians and sea changers. Rolling hills provide a postcard backdrop to the town, while broad, white-sand beaches dominate the foreground. It’s also an ideal base for exploring magical Cape Otway and Otway National Park. It has some of the best restaurants along the coast and two lively pubs.

2Activities

Mark's Walking ToursWALKING TOUR

(icon-phonegif%0417 983 985; www.greatoceanwalk.asn.au/markstours; 2-3hr tour adult/child $50/15)

Take a walk around the area with local Mark Brack, son of the Cape Otway Lighthouse keeper. He knows this stretch of coast, its history and its ghosts better than anyone around. Daily tours include shipwreck tours, historical tours, glow-worm tours and Great Ocean Walk tours. Minimum two people – prices drop the more people on the tour.

Apollo Bay Surf & KayakWATER SPORTS

(icon-phonegif%0405 495 909; www.apollobaysurfkayak.com.au; 157 Great Ocean Rd; 2hr kayak tours $65, 1½hr surf lessons $60)

Head out to an Australian fur seal colony in a double kayak. Tours (with full instructions for beginners) depart from Marengo Beach (to the south of the town centre). Also offers surf lessons, plus boards, stand-up paddle boards and mountain bikes for hire.

DON'T MISS

WALKING THE GREAT OCEAN ROAD

The superb multiday Great Ocean Walk (www.visitgreatoceanroad.org.au/greatoceanwalk) starts at Apollo Bay and runs all the way to the Twelve Apostles. It takes you through changing landscapes along spectacular clifftops, deserted beaches and forested Otway National Park.

It’s possible to start at one point and arrange a pick up at another (public transport options are few and far between). You can do shorter walks or the whole 104km trek over eight days. Designated camp sites are spread along the trail, catering for registered walkers only; bring cooking equipment and tents (no fires allowed). Check out the helpful FAQ page on the website for all info.

Walk 91WALKING

(icon-phonegif%03-5237 1189; www.walk91.com.au; 157-159 Great Ocean Rd, Apollo Bay)

Walk 91 can arrange your itinerary, transport and equipment hire, and can shuttle your backpack to your destination.

GOR ShuttleBUS

(icon-phonegif%03-5237 9278, 0428 379 278)

GOR Shuttle is a recommended shuttle service for luggage and walkers. It’ll pick you up when your walking’s done (costing anywhere from $35 to $85, depending on the distance).

4Sleeping

YHA Eco BeachHOSTEL

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-5237 7899; www.yha.com.au; 5 Pascoe St; dm from $36.50, d/f $101.50/122; icon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)icon-sustainableS

This $3-million, architect-designed hostel is an outstanding place to stay, with ecocredentials, great lounge areas, kitchens, boules pit and rooftop terraces. Rooms are generic but spotless. It's a block behind the beach.

Surfside BackpackerHOSTEL

(icon-phonegif%03-5237 7263; www.surfsidebackpacker.com; cnr Great Ocean Rd & Gambier St; dm from $28, d $75; icon-wifigifW)

Right across from the beach, this fantastic, sprawling, old-school 1940s beach house will appeal to those looking for budget accommodation with character (though possibly not to those seeking a sleek, modern hostel). Its homely lounge is full of couches, board games and huge windows looking out onto the ocean. It's a 15-minute walk from the bus stop.

icon-top-choiceoBeacon Point Ocean View VillasVILLA

(icon-phonegif%03-5237 6196; www.beaconpoint.com.au; 270 Skenes Creek Rd; r from $165; icon-acongifa)

With a commanding hill location among the trees, this wonderful collection of comfortable one- and two-bedroom villas is a luxurious yet affordable bush retreat. Most villas have sensational coast views, balcony and wood-fired heater.

5Eating & Drinking

Bay Leaf CaféCAFE

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-5237 6470; 131 Great Ocean Rd; mains $11-17; icon-hoursgifh8.30am-2.30pm)

A local favourite for its innovative menu, good coffee, friendly atmosphere and boutique-beer selection.

Apollo Bay HotelPUB

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-5237 6250; www.apollobayhotel.com.au; 95 Great Ocean Rd; mains $18-36; icon-hoursgifh11am-11pm)

This pub's enticing street-front beer garden is the place to be in summer. The bistro has good seafood options and there are live bands on weekends.

icon-top-choiceoChris’s Beacon Point RestaurantGREEK

(icon-phonegif%03-5237 6411; www.chriss.com.au; 280 Skenes Creek Rd; mains from $38; icon-hoursgifh8.30-10am & 6pm-late daily, plus noon-2pm Sat & Sun; icon-wifigifW)

Feast on memorable ocean views, deliciously fresh seafood and Greek-influenced dishes at Chris' hilltop fine-dining sanctuary among the treetops. Reservations recommended. You can also stay in its wonderful stilted villas ($265 to $330). It's accessed via Skenes Creek.

8Information

Great Ocean Road Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1300 689 297; 100 Great Ocean Rd; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm; icon-wifigifW)

Modern and professional tourist office with a heap of info for the area, and an ‘eco-centre’ with displays. It has free wi-fi and can book bus tickets, too.

Cape Otway

Cape Otway is the second-most-southerly point of mainland Australia (after Wilsons Promontory) and one of the wettest parts of the state. This coastline is particularly beautiful, rugged and historically treacherous for passing ships. The turn-off for Lighthouse Rd, which leads 12km down to the lighthouse, is 21km from Apollo Bay.

1Sights & Activities

Cape Otway LightstationLIGHTHOUSE

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-5237 9240; www.lightstation.com; Lighthouse Rd; adult/child/family $19.50/7.50/49.50; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm)

Cape Otway lightstation is the oldest surviving lighthouse on mainland Australia and was built in 1848 by more than 40 stonemasons without mortar or cement. The Telegraph Station has fascinating displays on the 250km undersea telegraph cable link with Tasmania, laid in 1859. It's a sprawling complex with plenty to see, from Aboriginal cultural sites to WWII bunkers.

THE SHIPWRECK COAST

In the era of sailing ships, Victoria’s beautiful and rugged southwest coastline was one of the most treacherous on Earth. Between the 1830s and 1930s, more than 200 ships were torn asunder along the so-called Shipwreck Coast between Cape Otway and Port Fairy. From the early 1850s to late 1880s, Victoria’s gold rush and subsequent economic boom brought countless shiploads of prospectors and hopefuls from Europe, North America and China. After spending months at sea, many vessels (and lives) were lost on the 'home straight’.

The lighthouses along this coast – at Aireys Inlet, Cape Otway, Port Fairy and Warrnambool – are still operating and you'll find shipwreck museums, memorial plaques and anchors that tell the story of wrecks along this coast. The most famous is that of the iron-hulled clipper Loch Ard, which foundered off Mutton Bird Island (near Port Campbell) at 4am on the final night of its long voyage from England in 1878. Of 37 crew and 19 passengers on board, only two survived. Eva Carmichael, a non-swimmer, clung to wreckage and was washed into a gorge – since renamed Loch Ard Gorge – where apprentice officer Tom Pearce rescued her. Despite rumours of a romance, they never saw each other again and Eva soon returned to Ireland.

4Sleeping

icon-top-choiceoBimbi ParkCARAVAN PARK

(icon-phonegif%03-5237 9246; www.bimbipark.com.au; 90 Manna Gum Dr; unpowered/powered sites $20/30, dm $45, d cabins $60-185; icon-wifigifW)icon-sustainableS

Down a dirt road 3km from the lighthouse is this character-filled caravan park with bush sites, cabins, dorms and old-school caravans. It's good for families, with plenty of wildlife, including koalas, horse rides ($45 per hour) and a rock-climbing wall. Good use of water-saving initiatives.

Cape Otway LightstationB&B

(Cape Otway lightstation; icon-phonegif%03-5237 9240; www.lightstation.com; Lighthouse Rd; d from $255)

There's a range of options at this windswept spot. You can book out the whole Head Lightkeeper’s House (sleeps 16), or the smaller Manager’s House (sleeps two). Prices are halved if you stay a second night. Vans are also permitted to stay for $25, but you'll need to pay the admission fee.

icon-top-choiceoGreat Ocean EcolodgeLODGE

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-5237 9297; www.greatoceanecolodge.com; 635 Lighthouse Rd; r incl breakfast & activities from $380; icon-non-smokinggifn)icon-sustainableS

Reminiscent of a luxury African safari lodge, this mud-brick homestead stands in pastoral surrounds with plenty of wildlife. It's all solar-powered and rates go towards the on-site Centre for Conservation Ecology (www.conservationecologycentre.org).

It also serves as an animal hospital for local fauna, and it has a captive tiger quoll breeding program, which you'll visit on its dusk wildlife walk with an ecologist.

Port Campbell National Park

The road levels out after leaving the Otways and enters narrow, flat scrubby escarpment lands that fall away to sheer, 70m-high cliffs along the coast between Princetown and Peterborough – a distinct change of scene. This is Port Campbell National Park, home to the Twelve Apostles, and the most famous and most photographed stretch of the Great Ocean Road.

None of the beaches along this stretch are suitable for swimming because of strong currents and undertows.

1Sights & Activities

icon-top-choiceoTwelve ApostlesLANDMARK

(Great Ocean Rd; icon-hoursgifhvisitor centre 9am-5pm)

The most iconic sight and enduring image for most visitors to the Great Ocean Road, the Twelve Apostles provide a fitting climax to the journey. Jutting out from the ocean in spectacular fashion, these rocky stacks stand like they've been abandoned to the ocean by the retreating headland. Today only seven 'apostles' can be seen from a network of viewing platforms connected by timber boardwalks around the clifftops.

There’s pedestrian access to the viewing platforms from the car park at the Twelve Apostles Visitor Centre (more a kiosk and toilets than an info centre) via a tunnel beneath the Great Ocean Road.

The best time to visit is sunset, not only for optimum photography opportunities and to beat the tour buses, but to see little penguins returning ashore. Sightings vary, but generally they arrive 20 to 40 minutes after sunset. You'll need binoculars, which can be borrowed from the Port Campbell Visitor Centre.

Gibson StepsBEACH

These 86 steps, hacked by hand into the cliffs by 19th-century landowner Hugh Gibson (and more recently replaced by concrete steps), lead down to wild Gibson Beach. You can walk along the beach, but be careful not to be stranded by high tides.

Loch Ard GorgeBEACH

Close to the Twelve Apostles, Loch Ard Gorge is where the Shipwreck Coast’s most famous and haunting tale unfolded when two young survivors of the wrecked iron clipper Loch Ard made it to shore. There are several walks in the area taking you down to the cave where they took shelter, plus a cemetery and rugged beach.

London BridgeLANDMARK

Just outside Port Campbell, en route to Peterborough, London Bridge has indeed fallen down. It was once a double-arched rock platform linked to the mainland, yet it remains a spectacular sight nevertheless. In January 1990 the bridge collapsed, leaving two terrified tourists marooned on the world’s newest island – they were eventually rescued by helicopter.

HOW MANY APOSTLES?

The Twelve Apostles are not 12 in number and, from all records, never have been. From the viewing platform you can clearly count seven Apostles, but maybe some obscure others? We consulted widely with Parks Victoria officers, tourist-office staff and even the cleaner at the lookout, but it’s still not clear. Locals tend to say ‘It depends where you look from’, which really is true.

The Apostles are called ‘stacks’ in geologic parlance, and the rock formations were originally called the ‘Sow and Piglets’. Someone in the 1960s (nobody can recall who) thought they might attract some tourists with a more venerable name, so they were renamed ‘the Apostles’. Since apostles tend to come by the dozen, the number 12 was added sometime later. The two stacks on the eastern (Otway) side of the viewing platform are not technically Apostles – they’re Gog and Magog.

The soft limestone cliffs are dynamic and changeable, with constant erosion from the unceasing waves – one 70m-high stack collapsed into the sea in July 2005 and the Island Archway lost its archway in June 2009.

Port Campbell

Pop 260

This small, laid-back coastal town was named after Scottish Captain Alexander Campbell, a whaler who took refuge here on trading voyages between Tasmania and Port Fairy. It’s a friendly spot with some great budget-accommodation options, which make for an ideal spot to debrief after visiting the Twelve Apostles. Its tiny bay has a lovely sandy beach, one of few safe places for swimming along this tempestuous stretch of coast.

TTours

Port Campbell Touring CompanyTOUR

(icon-phonegif%03-5598 6424; www.portcampbelltouring.com.au; half-day tours from $100)

Runs Apostle Coast tours and walking tours, including a Loch Ard evening walk ($65).

4Sleeping

Port Campbell GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE

(icon-phonegif%0407 696 559; www.portcampbellguesthouse.com; 54 Lord St; s/d incl breakfast from $40/68; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifi)

It’s great to find a home away from home, and this historic cottage close to town has four cosy rooms and a relaxed lounge and country kitchen. For added privacy there's a separate motel-style section up front with en suite rooms. Its ultra-relaxed owner, Mark, is knowledgeable about the area.

Port BayouB&B

(icon-phonegif%03-5598 6009; www.portbayou.portcampbell.nu; 52 Lord St; d cottage from $185; icon-acongifa)

Choose from the cosy in-house B&B or a rustic self-contained cottage fitted with exposed ceiling beams and corrugated-tin walls (we’d go for the cottage).

5Eating & Drinking

12 Rocks Cafe BarCAFE

(19 Lord St; mains $21-37; icon-hoursgifh9.30am-11pm)

Watch flotsam wash up on the beach from this busy eatery, which has perfect beachfront views. Try a local Otways beer with a pasta or seafood main, or just duck in for a coffee.

Port Campbell HotelPUB

(40 Lord St; icon-hoursgifh11am-1am Mon-Sat, noon-11pm Sun)

Head in for a beer and a feed with the locals. Kitchen closes at 8.30pm.

8Information

Port Campbell Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

(icon-phonegif%1300 137 255; www.visit12apostles.com.au; 26 Morris St; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm)

Stacks of regional and accommodation information and interesting shipwreck displays – the anchor from the Loch Ard is out the front. Offers free use of binoculars and GPS equipment.

8Getting There & Away

V/LineBUS

(icon-phonegif%13 61 96; www.vline.com.au)

V/Line buses leave Geelong on Monday, Wednesday and Friday and travel through to Port Campbell ($29.20, five hours), with a possible stop in Apollo Bay, and onto Warrnambool ($6.80, one hour 20 minutes).

Warrnambool

Pop 29,284

Warrnambool was originally a whaling and sealing station – now it’s booming as a major regional commercial and whale-watching centre. Its historic buildings, waterways and tree-lined streets are attractive, and there’s a large population of students.

1Sights & Activities

Sheltered Lady Bay, with fortifications at the breakwater at its western end, is the main swimming beach. Logan’s Beach has the best surf and there are breaks at Levy’s Beach and Second Bay.

icon-top-choiceoFlagstaff Hill Maritime VillageHISTORIC SITE

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-5559 4600; www.flagstaffhill.com; 89 Merri St; adult/child/concession/family $16/6.50/12.50/39; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm)

The world-class Flagstaff Hill precinct is of equal interest for its shipwreck museum, heritage-listed lighthouses and garrison as it is for its reproduction of a historical Victorian port town. It also has the nightly Shipwrecked (adult/child/family $26/14/67), an engaging 70-minute sound-and-laser show telling the story of the Loch Ard’s plunge. The village is modelled on a pioneer-era Australian coastal port, with ye-olde shops such as blacksmiths, candlemakers and shipbuilders.

Rundell's Mahogany Trail RidesHORSE RIDING

(icon-phonegif%0408 589 546; www.rundellshorseriding.com.au; 1½hr beach ride $65)

Get to know some of Warrnambool’s quiet beach spots on horseback.

WHALES AT WARRNAMBOOL

In the 19th century Warrnambool's whale industry involved hunting them with harpoons, but these days they're a major tourist attraction, with crowds gathering to see them frolic offshore on their migration between May and September. Southern right whales (named due to being the 'right' whales to hunt) are the most common visitors, heading from Antarctica to these more temperate waters.

Although whales can be seen between Portland and Anglesea, undoubtedly the best place to see them is at Warrnambool's Logan's Beach whale-watching platform – they use the waters here as a nursery. Sightings aren't guaranteed, but you've got a very good chance of spotting them breaching and slapping their tails about as they nurse their bubs in the waters. Call ahead to the visitor centre to check if whales are about, or see www.visitwarrnambool.com.au for latest sightings.

4Sleeping

Warrnambool Beach BackpackersHOSTEL

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-5562 4874; www.beachbackpackers.com.au; 17 Stanley St; dm/d from $26/80; icon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

A short stroll to the beach, this hostel has all backpackers' needs, with huge living area, kitchsy Aussie-themed bar, internet access, kitchen and free pick-up service. Its rooms are clean and good value, and it hires out surfboards and bikes. Vanpackers pay $12 per person to stay here.

Hotel WarrnamboolPUB

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-5562 2377; www.hotelwarrnambool.com.au; cnr Koroit & Kepler Sts; d incl breakfast without/with bathroom from $110/140; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

Renovations to this historic 1894 hotel have seen rooms upgraded to the more boutique end of the scale, while still keeping its classic pub-accommodation feel.

Lighthouse LodgeGUESTHOUSE

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.lighthouselodge.com.au; Flagstaff Hill; d/house from $155/375; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

Once the former harbour master's residence, this charming weatherboard cottage can be rented as the entire house or separate rooms. It has a grassy area overlooking the Maritime Village and coastline. In the village there's also lodging in the Garrison Camp ($25 per person), a unique option for budget travellers within small wooden A-frame bunk cabins. BYO linen.

5Eating

icon-top-choiceoKermond's HamburgersBURGERS

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-5562 4854; 151 Lava St; burgers $8; icon-hoursgifh9am-9.30pm)

Likely not much has changed at this burger joint since it opened in 1949, with Laminex tables, wood-panelled walls and classic milkshakes served in stainless-steel tumblers. Its burgers are an institution.

BojanglesPIZZA

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-5562 8751; www.bojanglespizza.com.au; 61 Liebig St; mains $16-31; icon-hoursgifh5-10pm; icon-veggifv)

A step above your usual country pizza places, with seriously delicious thin-crust pizzas.

Hotel WarrnamboolPUB FOOD

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.hotelwarrnambool.com.au; cnr Koroit & Kepler Sts; lunch mains $12-27, dinner $28-34; icon-hoursgifhnoon-late; icon-wifigifW)

One of Victoria's best coastal pubs, Hotel Warrnambool mixes pub charm with bohemian character and serves wood-fired pizzas, among other gastro-pub fare.

8Information

Warrnambool Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1800 637 725; www.visitwarrnambool.com.au; Merri St; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm)

For the latest on whale sightings, plus bike maps and several walking maps. Also has bicycle hire ($30 per day).

8Getting There & Away

Warrnambool is an hour's drive west of Port Campbell on the B100.

V/LineBUS, TRAIN

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1800 800 007; www.vline.com.au; Merri St)

V/Line trains run to Melbourne ($31.80, 3¼ hours, three or four daily) via Geelong ($22.80, 2½ hours).

There are also three V/Line buses a week from Geelong along the Great Ocean Road to Warrnambool ($33, 6½ hours), as well as three daily buses from Warrnambool to Port Fairy ($4.20, 35 minutes) and Portland ($11.40, 1½ hours).

West of the Great Ocean Road

Port Fairy

Pop 2835

Settled in 1833 as a whaling and sealing station, Port Fairy retains its historic 19th-century charm with a relaxed, salty feel, heritage bluestone and sandstone buildings, whitewashed cottages, colourful fishing boats and wide, tree-lined streets. In 2012 it was voted the world's most liveable community, and for most visitors it's not hard to see why.

1Sights & Activities

Battery HillHISTORIC SITE

( GOOGLE MAP )

Located across the bridge from the picturesque harbour, Battery Hill is worthy of exploration, with cannons and fortifications positioned here in 1887 to protect the town from foreign warships. You'll also encounter resident black wallabies. It was originally used as a flagstaff, so the views are good.

Self-Guided Walking ToursWALKING

Pick up a range of maps and brochures at the visitor centre that will guide you through various aspects of the town's heritage. It also has maps for the popular Maritime & Shipwreck Heritage Walk, while architecture buffs will want to buy a copy of Historic Buildings of Port Fairy.

Go SurfSURFING

(icon-phonegif%0408 310 001; www.gosurf.com.au; 2hr lesson $40, board hire 2hr/1 day $25/50)

Surf school and stand-up paddle board tours.

zFestivals & Events

icon-top-choiceoPort Fairy Folk FestivalMUSIC

(www.portfairyfolkfestival.com; tickets $75-290; icon-hoursgifhMar)

Australia’s premier folk-music festival is held on the Labour Day long weekend in March. It includes an excellent mix of international and national acts, while the streets are abuzz with buskers. Accommodation can book out a year in advance.

4Sleeping

Port Fairy YHAHOSTEL

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-5568 2468; www.portfairyhostel.com.au; 8 Cox St; dm $26-30, s/tw/d from $41.50/70/75; icon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

In the rambling 1844 home of merchant William Rutledge, this friendly, well-run hostel has a large kitchen, a pool table, free cable TV and peaceful gardens.

icon-top-choiceoDouglas on RiverB&B

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.douglasonriver.com.au; 85 Gipps St; r incl breakfast from $160; icon-wifigifW)

On the waterfront along the wharf, this 1852 heritage guesthouse lays claims to being the oldest in Port Fairy and is a great choice for those seeking boutique accommodation. The lovely front lawn and common area are both perfect for relaxing, and it does wonderful breakfasts using local produce.

Pelican WatersCABIN

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-5568 1002; www.pelicanwatersportfairy.com.au; 34 Regent St; cabins from $100; icon-acongifa)

Why stay in a hotel when you can sleep in a train? This beautifully presented farm property has cabins as well as rooms in converted old-school Melbourne suburban MET trains. Has alpacas and llamas, too.

PORT FAIRY ACCOMMODATION

Much of Port Fairy’s holiday accommodation is managed by agents. The visitor centre offers a free booking service.

Port Fairy Accommodation CentreACCOMMODATION SERVICES

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-5568 3150; www.portfairyaccom.com.au; 2/54 Sackville St)

Local accommodation booking service.

Port Fairy Holiday RentalsACCOMMODATION SERVICES

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-5568 1066; www.lockettrealestate.com.au; 62 Sackville St)

A local clearing house for accommodation.

5Eating & Drinking

Pantry Door at BasaltCAFE

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-5568 7442; 1131 Princes Hwy, Killarney; mains $12-26; icon-hoursgifh7.30am-noon Mon, to 4.30pm Wed-Sun; icon-wifigifW)

Just outside Port Fairy, in the township of Killarney, this bluestone homestead cafe focuses on seasonal local produce and has an outdoor deck among fruit trees. Next door is Basalt Wines (icon-phonegif%0429 682 251; www.basaltwines.com; 1131 Princes Hwy, Killarney; icon-hoursgifh11am-4.30pm Sat & Sun), a family-run biodynamic winery that does tastings in its shed.

Stump HotelPUB

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-5568 1044; www.caledonianinnportfairy.com.au; 41 Bank St; mains $16-22; icon-hoursgifhnoon-late)

Victoria’s oldest continuously licensed pub (1844), the Stump, aka Caledonian Inn, has a beer garden and pub grub. Also has no-frills motel rooms from $100.

icon-top-choiceoMerrijig KitchenMODERN AUSTRALIAN

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-5568 2324; www.merrijiginn.com; 1 Campbell St; mains $28-38; icon-hoursgifh6-9pm Thu-Mon; icon-wifigifW)

One of coastal Victoria's most atmospheric restaurants; warm yourself by the open fire and enjoy superb dining with a menu that changes according to what’s seasonal. Delectable food with great service.

8Information

Port Fairy Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%03-5568 2682; www.visitportfairy-moyneshire.com.au; Bank St; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm)

Provides spot-on tourist information, walking tour brochures, V/Line tickets and bike hire (half/full day $15/25).

8Getting There & Away

Port Fairy is 20 minutes' drive west of Warrnambool on the A1.

V/LineBUS

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%1800 800 007; www.vline.com.au)

Buses run three times daily on weekdays (twice on Saturday and once on Sunday) to Portland ($7.80, 55 minutes) and Warrnambool ($4.20, 35 minutes).

Portland

Pop 9950

Portland's claim to fame is as Victoria’s first European settlement, founded as a whaling and sealing base in the early 1800s. Despite its colonial history and architecture and its size, blue-collared Portland lacks a real drawcard, which sees it fall short of its potential. There are some good beaches and surf breaks outside town.

1Sights & Activities

Whales often visit during winter; see www.whalemail.com.au for latest sightings.

Historic WaterfrontWATERFRONT

(Cliff St)

The grassy precinct overlooking the harbour has several heritage bluestone buildings. The History House (icon-phonegif%03-5522 2266; Cliff St; adult/child $3/2; icon-hoursgifh10am-noon & 1-4pm), located in the former town hall (1863), has an interesting museum detailing Portland's colonial past. Customs House (1850) has a fascinating display of confiscated booty, including a stuffed black bear. Also here is the 1845 courthouse, the 1886 Rocket Shed, with a display of ship rescue equipment, and the 1889 battery, built as defence against feared Russian invasion.

Self-guided Walking ToursWALKING TOUR

The tourist office offers several self-guided walking-tour brochures, including a heritage building tour and one that traces the steps of St Mary MacKillop's time in Portland.

4Sleeping

Annesley HouseBOUTIQUE HOTEL

(icon-phonegif%0429 852 235; www.annesleyhouse.com.au; 60 Julia St; d from $150; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

This recently restored former doctor’s mansion (c 1878) has six very different self-contained rooms, some featuring claw-foot baths and lovely views. All have a unique sense of style.

Clifftop AccommodationGUESTHOUSE

(icon-phonegif%03-5523 1126; www.portlandaccommodation.com.au; 13 Clifton Ct; d from $140; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

The panoramic ocean views from the balconies here are incredible. Three self-contained rooms are huge, with big brass beds, telescopes and a modern maritime feel.

5Eating

Deegan SeafoodsFISH & CHIPS

(106 Percy St; mains from $10; icon-hoursgifh9am-6pm Mon-Fri)

This fish-and-chip shop famously serves up the freshest fish in Victoria.

Cafe BahlooCAFE

(85 Cliff St; mains $12-29; icon-hoursgifh7.30am-3.30pm Tue-Sat)

Housed in the original bluestone watchkeeper's house across from the harbour, Bahloo serves good breakfasts and coffee.

8Information

Portland Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

(icon-phonegif%1800 035 567; www.visitportland.com.au; Lee Breakwater Rd; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm)

In a modern building on the waterfront, this excellent information centre has a stack of suggestions of things to do and see.

8Getting There & Away

Portland is a one-hour drive west of Port Fairy on the A1.

V/LineBUS

(icon-phonegif%1800 800 007; www.vline.com.au)

V/Line buses connect Portland with Port Fairy ($7.80, 55 minutes) and Warrnambool ($11.40, 1½ hours) three times daily on weekdays, twice on Saturday and once on Sunday. Buses depart from Henty St.

Portland to South Australia

From Portland you can head northwest along the beautiful Portland–Nelson Rd. This road runs inland from the coast, but along the way there are turn-offs leading to beaches and national parks.

Cape Bridgewater is an essential 21km detour off the Portland–Nelson Rd. The stunning 4km arc of Bridgewater Bay is one of Australia’s finest stretches of white-sand surf beach. The road continues on to Cape Duquesne, where walking tracks lead to a spectacular Blowhole and the eerie Petrified Forest (and wind farms) on the clifftop. A longer two-hour return walk takes you to a seal colony.

Tiny Nelson, 65km from Portland and 4km short of the South Australian border, is little more than a general store, a pub and a handful of accommodation places, but you can take boat and kayak tours from here up the Glenelg River.

Lonely Planet Australia
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