Central & Outback NSW
Central & Outback NSW Highlights
New England
Tamworth
Armidale
Tenterfield & Around
Northwest
Castlereagh Highway
Newell Highway
Central West
Bathurst
Orange
Cowra
Parkes
Dubbo
Mudgee
Outback
Wentworth
Mungo National Park
Broken Hill
Around Broken Hill
Corner Country
Wilcannia
White Cliffs
Bourke
Central & Outback NSW
Why Go?
Trust us, there is life beyond Sydney and the New South Wales coast – and it's worthy of attention. Epicurean retreats like Mudgee and Orange send a siren call to city slickers, Broken Hill's mining heritage is rich and nation-defining, and national parks offer sand dunes, ancient rock art, wildlife-filled forests and glorious walking trails.
From the rolling green hills of New England to the red-dirt glow of the outback, there are some beautifully Australian moments to savour: stargazing into pristine skies, sharing a yarn with eccentrics in mining communities, marvelling over art in the most unlikely places (on pub walls, down opal mines, in a remote paddock). Festivals mark the regions' calendars with excuses to party – from the quirky (Elvis, country music) to the brawny (motor sport), to celebrations of season (harvests, autumn foliage, spring cherry blossoms). Who needs the beach, anyway?
When to Go
AJan School holidays see locals head for national parks. Big music festivals in Parkes and Tamworth.
AEaster-Oct High season in the outback, with cooler temperatures (and cold nights).
ASep-Oct Central West celebrates food and wine in Mudgee and Orange; Cherry Blossom Festival in Cowra.
Best Places to Eat
Best Places to Stay
Central & Outback NSW Highlights
1 Visiting underground opal mines then taking a long hot soak at Lightning Ridge
2 Wining and dining exceedingly well in Mudgee and Orange
3 Cycling from rhinos to meerkats in Dubbo's Western Plains Zoo
4 Exploring unexpected art in unlikely places in and around Broken Hill
5 Taking a sunset tour of the Walls of China in Mungo National Park
6 Finding peace and tranquillity in Cowra's Japanese Garden
7 Hearing live music and tall tales of country music legends in Tamworth
8 Stargazing into clear night skies in Coonabarabran or Broken Hill
9 Appreciating the fair-dinkum humour of Utes in the Paddock
a Being bowled over by Bathurst's first-rate Fossil & Mineral Museum
New England
Verdant scenery prompted the first British settlers to name this area New England in 1839. In the northern 'highlands' especially, images of Britain still raise their head, especially where mist settles in the cool-climate hilltops and fertile valleys, little churches sit in oak-studded paddocks and winding roads navigate impossibly green landscapes. Lest you're lulled into a false sense of rural genteelness, the cowboy flavour of Tamworth will set you straight.
Tamworth
Pop 36,130
It's not quite the Wild West, but Tamworth sits in prime farming country and the town is not so much a regional centre as a holy land – a pilgrimage destination for many music-loving Australians. The religion is country music, the god Slim Dusty, and the holy grail is the world's biggest golden guitar.
1Sights & Activities
Big Golden Guitar Tourist CentreMUSEUM
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6765 2688; www.biggoldenguitar.com.au; New England Hwy; h9am-5pm)
Behind the iconic 12m-high golden guitar, this building is home to the Tamworth visitor centre, a cafe, and a gift shop peddling local tunes and souvenirs. There's also the cheesy Gallery of Stars Wax Museum (adult/child $10/5) honouring Australian country music legends. It's one for the true fans (or true fans of kitsch). It's on the southern stretch of the highway leading into town, about 5km from the city centre.
Walk a Country Mile MuseumMUSEUM
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.countrymusichalloffame.com.au; cnr Peel & Murray Sts)
You can track the town's musical heritage at two exhibitions: the memorabilia-filled Walk a Country Mile, and the Country Music Hall of Fame. They're set to reopen by mid-2015 under one roof (inside a building shaped like a guitar – do you spot a theme here…?).
oTamworth Marsupial ParkPARK
( GOOGLE MAP ; Endeavour Dr; h8am-4.45pm; c)F
Overfriendly cockatoos, showy peacocks and a mob of native animals live here alongside a playground, barbecues and picnic shelters. There are lovely short walks to the neighbouring botanic gardens. Take Brisbane St east.
Oxley Scenic LookoutVIEWPOINT
( GOOGLE MAP ; Scenic Rd; h7am-10pm)F
Follow jacaranda-lined White St to the very top, where you'll reach this viewpoint. It's the best seat in the house as the sun goes down.
Leconfield Jackaroo & Jillaroo SchoolHORSE RIDING
(%02-6769 4328; www.leconfield.com; 'Bimboola', Kootingal; 5-day courses $625)
Keen on riding, mustering and general horsemanship? This fair-dinkum course will teach you many of the tricks you'll need to get farm work (and it can help with job placement). There are also trail rides on offer.
zFestivals & Events
Country Music FestivalMUSIC
Held over 10 rollicking days from mid-January, this is billed as the biggest music festival in the southern hemisphere. The 2015 stats are impressive: more than 800 performers across 120 venues, entertaining some 55,000 visitors. That's an awful lot of boot-scooting!
Many acts are free, otherwise most tickets range from $5 to $50 (see the festival website). The 'Festival Express' bus connects the various venues and most hotels ($5/20 for a day/entire festival).
4Sleeping
It pays to book well in advance for the January festival. The council makes large areas of riverside available to festival campers; it's rough and rowdy but fun. There are also home-hosting arrangements at this time – see the festival website.
Tamworth YHAHOSTEL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6761 2600; www.yha.com.au; 169 Marius St; dm/d from $27/61; aiW)
Central, small and old-school (dorms of six or eight beds), but neat as a pin.
Sundance ParkMOTEL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6765 7922; www.sundancepark.com.au; New England Hwy; r from $99; aWs)
The town's major roads are littered with classic Aussie motels. We're partial to Sundance Park, on the southern outskirts of town, for its crackerjack swimming pool (in the shape of a guitar, tiled in the Australian flag). Rooms are decent value.
Quality Hotel PowerhouseHOTEL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6766 7000; www.powerhousetamworth.com.au; New England Hwy; r/apt from $185/205; aWs)
Home to classy, well-equipped hotel rooms, suites and serviced apartments, and a host of on-site amenities. It's on the highway towards Armidale.
Retreat at Frog-Moore ParkB&B
(%02-6766 3353; www.froogmoorepark.com.au; 78 Bligh St; r incl breakfast from $225; W)
Five individually styled suites (with names like Moroccan Fantasy and The Dungeon) make this avant-garde B&B one of Tamworth's quirkier and more luxurious options. Rooms are large, the gardens are delightful, and the breakfasts could just be the best in town.
5Eating & Drinking
The visitor centre compiles a flyer outlining the week's live-music options, found at a handful of the pubs and clubs around town; Friday and Saturday nights are your best bet.
AddimiCAFE, BISTRO
(%02-6766 7802; www.addimi.com.au; 306 Peel St; dinner mains $21-38; h7am-4pm Mon & Tue, to 10pm Wed-Sat, 7.30am-3pm Sun)
A stylish, central, all-day option, with a menu running from popular breakfast dishes through to tapas and cocktails. Dinner-time offerings are crowd-pleasing Mod-Oz fare.
oLe PruneauFRENCH
(%02-6765 3666; www.lepruneau.com.au; 67 Denison St; lunch mains $10-22, dinner mains $32-36; h7.30am-10pm Tue-Sat, to 3pm Sun)
You'll need a map to find this French-owned cottage-style cafe and restaurant in West Tamworth, but it's worth seeking out for its creatively delicious cooking. There's a local organic market behind the cottage on Saturday mornings. Dinner bookings advised.
LongyardPUB
(www.thelongyard.com.au; The Ringers Rd; meals $16-33; h10am-late)
The Longyard, directly behind the visitor centre, is a big, rowdy, popular watering hole with a decent menu of pub-grub classics (bumper portions of burgers, steaks etc) plus weekend live music.
8Information
Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6767 5300; www.destinationtamworth.com.au; New England Hwy; h9am-5pm)
South of town centre, at the Big Golden Guitar.
8Getting There & Away
Long-distance buses leave from the train station on Marius St.
GreyhoundBUS
(%1300 473 946; www.greyhound.com.au)
Has nightly services along the New England Hwy between Sydney and Brisbane – these stop at Tamworth, Armidale, Tenterfield and Toowoomba en route. Tamworth to Brisbane is 9½ hours ($125), to Sydney is 6½ hours ($75).
New England CoachesBUS
(%02-6732 1051; www.newenglandcoaches.com.au)
Runs a couple of useful services: Tamworth to Coffs Harbour ($90); and Tamworth to Brisbane ($115). Both services run three times a week.
NSW TrainLinkTRAIN
(%13 22 32; www.nswtrainlink.info)
Runs trains daily to Armidale ($20, two hours) and Sydney ($59, 6¼ hours).
Armidale
Pop 25,400
Armidale's heritage buildings, gardens and moss-covered churches look like the stage set for a period drama. This old-world scenery coupled with spectacular autumn foliage (March to May) plays a big part in attracting people to this regional centre, which sits at an elevation of 980m and is surrounded by some of Australia's best grazing country. Mild summers, crisp winters and quality educational institutions win admirers.
1Sights
The visitor centre has handouts offering oodles of suggestions for all audiences. There's good heritage info, plus booklets outlining the region's natural attractions and the Waterfall Way – the spectacular route down to the coast at Coffs Harbour.
New England Regional Art MuseumMUSEUM
(NERAM; GOOGLE MAP ; www.neram.com.au; 106-114 Kentucky St; h10am-4pm Tue-Sun)F
At the southern edge of town, NERAM has a sizeable permanent collection and good contemporary exhibitions. The Yellow Room Triptych by Margaret Olley is a highlight.
Aboriginal Cultural Centre & Keeping PlaceGALLERY
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.acckp.com.au; 128 Kentucky St; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat)F
Down the road from the Regional Art Museum, this centre will broaden your perception of Indigenous art. There's a small sweet cafe here serving up some imaginative examples of bush tucker.
TTours
Heritage Bus ToursBUS TOUR
(%02-6770 3888; h10am)F
A generous gesture from the local council: free (and detail-rich) 2½-hour tours of Armidale depart from the visitor centre daily at 10am; bookings required.
4Sleeping & Eating
Armidale Tourist ParkCAMPGROUND, HOSTEL
(%02-6772 6470; www.armidaletouristpark.com.au; 39 Waterfall Way; sites $22-46, dm $38, cabins $82-160; iWs)
Friendly and leafy, with a budget bunkhouse and a range of cabins.
Armidale Pines MotelMOTEL
(%02-6772 0625; www.armidalepinesmotel.com; 141 Marsh St; r from $135; as)
In the heart of town, this spick-and-span motel has generous rooms and fresh decor.
oPetersons GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE
(%02-6772 0422; www.petersonsguesthouse.com.au; Dangarsleigh Rd; r from $200; aW)
Beautifully restored to its former opulence, this 1911 estate has seven large, characterful suites and magnificent grounds (popular for wedding parties). Dinner is possible, and the estate offers cool-climate wine tastings and Sunday picnic lunches (call ahead for hours, as the estate is closed to visitors when functions are held).
Goldfish BowlBAKERY, CAFE
( GOOGLE MAP ; 160 Rusden St; lunch $8-19; h7am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat)
First-rate coffee and delectable baked goods pulled from the wood-fired oven make this a worthy pit stop. Load up on pastries, sourdough bread or gourmet pizza for carb-loaded heaven.
Bistro on CindersBISTRO
(www.bistrooncinders.com; 14 Cinders Lane; mains $12-25; h8.30am-3pm Mon-Sat)
Behind the post office is this cool contemporary eatery with a small courtyard. Grab a quick morning coffee, pause for salmon scrambled eggs, or linger over a lunch of homemade ricotta gnocchi.
8Information
Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6770 3888; www.armidaletourism.com.au; 82 Marsh St; h9am-5pm)
8Getting There & Around
Long-distance buses leave from the visitor centre.
GreyhoundBUS
(%1300 473 946; www.greyhound.com.au)
Has nightly services along the New England Hwy between Sydney and Brisbane – these stop at Tamworth, Armidale, Tenterfield and Toowoomba en route. Armidale to Sydney is eight hours ($113).
New England CoachesBUS
(%02-6732 1051; www.newenglandcoaches.com.au)
Runs some useful services: Armidale to Coffs Harbour ($70); and Armidale to Brisbane ($105). Both services run three times a week.
NSW TrainLinkTRAIN
(%13 22 32; www.nswtrainlink.info)
Runs trains daily to Tamworth ($20, two hours) and Sydney ($66, eight hours). It also has bus services to Tenterfield ($25, 2½ hours).
Tenterfield & Around
Pop 2997
Tenterfield is the hub of a region boasting a smattering of villages and 10 national parks. In the town itself are dozens of charming heritage buildings, including the train station from 1886 (no longer in service, but home to a museum). The town is the birthplace of entertainer Peter Allen (the 'Boy from Oz').
1Sights
Tenterfield SaddlerLANDMARK
(www.tenterfieldsaddler.com; 123 High St; h10am-3pm Thu-Sun)
This bluestone building opened as a saddlery in 1870 and was celebrated by Peter Allen in his well-known song (written for his grandfather who was a saddler here for 50 years). It's still open for business.
Bald Rock National ParkNATIONAL PARK
(www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au; per car per day $7)
About 35km northeast of Tenterfield (take Naas Rd, signposted 'Woodenbong' – really), you can hike to the top of Australia's largest exposed granite monolith (which looks like a stripy little Uluru). There are lovely walks in the area (including two routes up the rock for great views), plus picnic sites and a camping area (adult/child $10/5) near the base. Kangaroos and birdsong are highlights.
Sir Henry Parkes Memorial School of ArtsHISTORIC BUILDING
(www.henryparkestenterfield.com; Rouse St; hmuseum 10am-4pm)
Australian-history boffins will enjoy the museum (adult/child $5/2) in this beautifully restored old hall. It's notable as the place where Sir Henry Parkes, the 'Father of Federation', delivered the 1889 Tenterfield Oration, a speech proposing that the six separate British colonies in Australia should unite. Others may simply appreciate the library, cinema and courtyard cafe.
4Sleeping & Eating
The main street is dotted with dining options, including decent pubs.
oCommercial Boutique HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL
(%02-6736 4870; www.thecommercialboutiquehotel.com; 288 Rouse St; r $160-260)
A glorious 1940s art-deco pub has found a new lease of life, reinvented as a glamorous boutique hotel (with eight monochrome rooms). The dining area has had a makeover too, and is now a handsome bar showcasing local wine and craft beers.
The restaurant is open from 10am weekdays; brunch from 9am weekends. Dinner isn't served Monday or Tuesday night, but you're welcome to bring takeaway and enjoy a drink!
Peter Allen Motor InnMOTEL
(%02-6736 2499; www.peterallenmotorinn.com.au; 177 Rouse St; r from $105; aW)
Who can resist the name?! One of a dozen motels lining the main road, this not-remotely-flamboyant place has friendly new owners sprucing things up. Facilities are good; the price is right.
8Information
Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(%02-6736 1082; www.tenterfieldtourism.com.au; 157 Rouse St; h9.30am-5pm Mon-Sat, to 4pm Sun)
8Getting There & Away
GreyhoundBUS
(%1300 473 946; www.greyhound.com.au)
Has nightly services along the New England Hwy between Sydney and Brisbane – these stop at Tamworth, Armidale, Tenterfield and Toowoomba. Tenterfield to Brisbane is 5½ hours ($96).
New England CoachesBUS
(%02-6372 1051; www.newenglandcoaches.com.au)
Runs a useful service three times a week between Armidale, Tamworth and Brisbane, stopping at Tenterfield.
Northern Rivers BuslinesBUS
(%02-6626 1499; www.nrbuslines.com.au)
Has three weekly buses to/from Lismore ($6, two hours), with connections to Byron Bay.
NSW TrainLinkTRAIN
(%13 22 32; www.nswtrainlink.info)
Runs buses daily to Armidale ($25, 2½ hours), where you can change to a train for Sydney.
Northwest
People tend to race through this flat archetypal Australian landscape, possibly with Queensland beaches on their minds. If Queensland isn't on the itinerary, chances are Lightning Ridge is. Like other outback mining communities, the town throws up as many characters as it does gems.
Castlereagh Highway
The Castlereagh Hwy (Rte 55, part of the 'Great Inland Way' linking Sydney and Cairns) forks off the Oxley Hwy at Gilgandra then runs to the Queensland border through Coonamble, Walgett and the rugged opal country of Lightning Ridge.
Lightning Ridge
Pop 2600
This strikingly imaginative outback mining town (one of the world's few sources of valuable black opals) has real frontier spirit, and is home to eccentric artisans, true-blue bushies and a generally unconventional collective. It's an entertaining place to spend a few days.
1Sights & Activities
Several underground mines and opal showrooms are open to the public.
oChambers of the Black HandGALLERY, MINE
(%02-6829 0221; www.chambersoftheblackhand.com.au; 3 Mile Rd (Yellow Car Door 5); adult/child $35/10; htours from 9.30am & 3pm Apr-Oct, 10.30am Nov-Mar)
This place is remarkable, and symbolises the crazy and creative sides of the Ridge. Artist and miner Ron Canlin has turned a 12m-deep mining claim into a cavernous gallery of carvings and paintings: superheroes, celebrities, pharaohs, Buddhas, animals, you name it. Call to confirm tour times; courtesy-bus pick-up from your accommodation is offered.
Walk-In MineMINE
(%02-6829 0473; www.walkinmine.com.au; Bald Hill; adult/child $15/6; h9am-5pm Apr-Oct, 8.30am-12.30pm Nov-Mar)
Visit this mine to get a feel for the type of environment encountered by the average opal miner, and for life in the Ridge.
oHot Artesian Bore BathsSWIMMING
(Pandora St; h24hr)F
Enjoy scenic vistas while soaking in these unique open-air baths. The hot (41.5°C), mineral-rich water is drawn from 1200m below ground. Sunrise or sunset here can be magnificent, and chatting with the locals is a treat. Note: it's usually closed from 10am to noon for cleaning, and the high temperatures aren't suitable for small kids.
Sport & Aquatic ComplexSWIMMING
(Gem St; pool/water park $4/7; h11am-6pm Oct-Apr)
When the sun's cranking, the artesian baths won't cool you down. So head here instead – a 50m pool built by community-raised funds. There's a fun water park area for kids.
TTours
Car Door ToursDRIVING TOUR
The local community demonstrates its wit with four self-drive car-door tours, which explore different areas of interest around town. Each of the tours is marked by coloured car doors (green, blue, yellow and red) and can be followed using the excellent handout ($1) from the visitor centre.
Black Opal ToursTOUR
(%02-6829 0368; www.blackopaltours.com.au; adult/child $35/15; htours 8.30am & 12.30pm Apr-Oct, 8.15am Nov-Mar)
Do some exploring (and fossicking) with this outfit on its daily three-hour tours, which take in some quirky local sights and give context to them. You can also do a 4½-hour package that includes the Chambers of the Black Hand ($70/15).
4Sleeping & Eating
oOpal Caravan ParkCAMPGROUND, CABINS
(%02-6829 1446; www.opalcaravanpark.com.au; 142 Pandora St; camp sites $27-45, cabins from $110; Ws)
This new, well-planned bushland park opposite the artesian baths offers excellent modern facilities: self-contained cabins, a swimming pool, wi-fi, camp sites with en suite, and a camp kitchen with pizza oven. There's even a small area for fossicking.
Bruno'sITALIAN
(%02-6829 4157; www.brunosrestaurant.com.au; 38b Morilla St; lunch $12.50-14.50, dinner mains $15-21; h7.30am-10pm Tue-Sun)
A genuine Italian chef, a wood-fired oven and some seriously tasty desserts (panna cotta, tiramisu) are the surprise package here. There's a good range of pasta, pizza and meaty mains (eg veal scaloppine, steak) on offer.
8Information
Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(%02-6829 1670; www.lightningridgeinfo.com.au; Morilla St; h9am-5pm)
8Getting There & Away
NSW TrainLinkBUS
(%13 22 32; www.nswtrainlink.info)
Runs daily buses connecting the Ridge and Dubbo ($67, 4½ hours).
Newell Highway
The Newell Hwy (Rte 39), the through-route from Victoria, passes through stargazing Coonabarabran and the burgeoning Aboriginal art hub of Moree, before hitting the border at Goondiwindi.
Coonabarabran
Pop 3200
Coonabarabran ('Coona' to locals) is widely recognised as an ideal place for stargazing thanks to its pristine air, high altitude (505m) and low humidity. The visitor centre (%1800 242 881; www.warrumbungleregion.com.au; Newell Hwy; h9am-5pm) is south of the clock tower (with megafauna exhibits). Motels dot the highway, and buses run to Lithgow (via Mudgee).
1Sights & Activities
Coona has a few private observatories offering affordable, family-friendly night-sky shows (note that you'll need to phone first, as weather conditions need to be agreeable, and start times vary according to sunset).
Siding Spring ObservatoryOBSERVATORY
(rsaa.anu.edu.au/observatories/siding-spring-observatory; adult/child $5.50/3.50; h9.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun)
Coonabarabran's skies are so clear, the Australian National University chose to set up this research facility some 27km west of the town, on the edge of Warrumbungle National Park. The site is home to telescopes belonging to national and international institutions and includes the 3.9m Anglo-Australian Telescope, the largest optical (visible light) telescope in Australia.
There are no public stargazing facilities here, but there's a visitor centre where you can boggle your mind with solar system facts and figures.
Milroy ObservatoryOBSERVATORY
(%0448 129 119; www.milroyobservatory.com.au; adult/child $30/15)
Milroy Observatory offers the largest public-access telescope in the southern hemisphere (it's a 1m- (40in)-device that sits on a hilltop about 10km outside Coona). The astronomer-in-charge, Cam Wylie, runs regular 90-minute stargazing sessions.
Warrumbungle ObservatoryOBSERVATORY
(%0488 425 112; www.tenbyobservatory.com; adult/child $20/10)
A private observatory offering 90-minute night-sky viewing, run by an astronomer with the delightful name of Peter Starr. It's about 9km from town, en route to Siding Spring.
Warrumbungle National ParkNATIONAL PARK
(%02-6825 4364; www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au; per car per day $7)
Sitting 35km west of Coonabarabran, this 232-sq-km park has spectacular granite domes, ample bushwalking trails, plentiful wildlife and explosive wild flower displays during spring. It's one of NSW's most beautiful parks, although a bushfire swept through in 2013; some areas will take years to fully recover.
Park fees are payable at the NPWS visitor centre; there are excellent camp sites nearby at Camp Blackman (adult/child from $5/3). Walking tracks include the peerless 12.5km Breadknife and Grand High Tops Walk.
Pilliga National ParkNATIONAL PARK
(%02-6843 4011; www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au)
Between Coonabarabran and Narrabri, the Pilliga Forest springs either side of the highway. For a closer look at this semiarid landscape, begin at the Discovery Centre in Baradine (46km north of Coona). Here you can pick up maps and directions to the Sandstone Caves with Aboriginal rock art, or to a striking new forest highlight: Sculptures in the Scrub.
Moree
Pop 9350
Motels line the highways, and are also found along Warialda St (close to the aquatic centre).
1Sights & Activities
oYaama Ganu CentreGALLERY
(www.yaamaganu.com.au; 211 Balo St; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat, to noon Sun)F
For a lively local take on the art scene, check out the wonderful centre, home to a gallery of Indigenous art and a bright, friendly cafe.
Moree Plains GalleryGALLERY
(www.moreeplainsgallery.org.au; cnr Frome & Heber Sts; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat)F
In one of the town’s historic buildings, Moree gallery has an inspiring collection of contemporary Aboriginal art.
Moree Artesian Aquatic CentreSWIMMING
(www.maacltd.com; 20 Anne St; adult/child $8/6; h6am-8pm Mon-Fri, 7am-7pm Sat & Sun)
Locals frolic at this smart complex of swimming pools, and soak in its mineral-rich artesian pools (around 40°C). Some town motels also have artesian pools on-site for guests.
8Information
Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(%02-6757 3350; www.moreetourism.com.au; cnr Gwydir & Newell Hwys; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat & Sun)
Central West
The Central West's relative proximity to Sydney and its population of eager city escapees, weekend-awayers and holiday-homers have no doubt given many of the agricultural towns just beyond the Blue Mountains a leg-up. Drive further west and the red outback soil takes over.
Bathurst
Pop 31,294
Bathurst is Australia's oldest inland settlement, boasting a cool climate and a beautiful manicured central square where formidable Victorian buildings transport you to the past. And then, in a dramatic change of pace, it's also the bastion of Australian motor sport.
1Sights
Ask at the visitor centre for information about wineries, hiking trails and scenic drives in the region.
oAustralian Fossil & Mineral MuseumMUSEUM
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.somervillecollection.com.au; 224 Howick St; adult/child $12/6; h10am-4pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun)
Don't let the dry name fool you – this place is a treasure chest full of wonder. It's home to the internationally renowned Somerville Collection: rare fossils, plus gemstones and minerals in every colour of the rainbow (amethysts, diamonds, rubies, ancient insects frozen in amber). The museum also houses Australia's only complete Tyrannosaurus rex skeleton.
CourthouseHISTORIC BUILDING, MUSEUM
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.bathursthistory.org.au; Russell St; museum adult/child $4/2.50; hmuseum 10am-4pm Tue-Sat, 11am-2pm Sun)
This 1880 building is the most impressive of Bathurst's historical structures. Its east wing houses the small Historical Museum.
Mt PanoramaLANDMARK
Rev-heads will enjoy the 6.2km Mt Panorama Motor Racing Circuit, venue for the epic Bathurst 1000 V8 race each October (which sees crowds of up to 200,000). It's a public road, so you can drive around the circuit – but only up to an unthrilling 60km/h. There's a lookout and racing-themed children's playground at the top.
All roads lead to the track, including southwest along William St.
National Motor Racing MuseumMUSEUM
(www.nmrm.com.au; Murrays Corner, Mt Panorama; adult/child $12.50/5.50; h9am-4.30pm)
Sits at the base of Mt Panorama and celebrates all things motor sports.
zFestivals & Events
Bathurst 1000MOTOR RACING
(www.v8supercars.com.au; hOct)
Petrolheads throng to Bathurst for this 1000km touring-car race, considered the pinnacle of Australian motor sport. It's completed over 161 laps of Mt Panorama.
4Sleeping
Jack Duggans Irish PubPUB
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6331 2712; www.jackduggans.com.au; 135 George St; dm/s/d with shared bathrooms $30/50/65)
This lively spot in the heart of town has a good restaurant and bar downstairs (run by a real Irishman, with live music on weekends and good craic). Upstairs are small, high-quality budget rooms.
Accommodation WarehouseAPARTMENTS
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6332 2801; www.accomwarehouse.com.au; 121a Keppel St; s/d $100/130; aW)
A three-level woollen mill dating from the 1870s has been cleverly converted into five self-contained apartments. They're not slick; they're sweet and cosy and have considerably more character than a modern motel room. It's down a lane, arrowed off Keppel St.
Rydges Mount PanoramaHOTEL
(%02-6338 1888; www.rydges.com/bathurst; 1 Conrod Straight; r from $150; Ws)
Large (129 studios and apartments) and smartly furnished, with loads of facilities. Every room has a view over the racetrack, but you'll need to book well ahead for the Bathurst 1000.
5Eating & Drinking
Church BarPIZZA
( GOOGLE MAP ; 1 Ribbon Gang Lane; pizzas $17-25; hnoon-midnight)
This restored 1850s church now attracts punters praying to a different deity: the god of wood-fired pizza. The soaring ceilings and verdant courtyard off William St make it one of the town's best eating and socialising venues.
HubCAFE
( GOOGLE MAP ; 52 Keppel St; mains $13-25; h7am-5pm Mon-Sat, to 3pm Sun)
On a strip with a few cool cafe options, the courtyard canopy of red umbrellas and green leaves makes this popular spot the perfect place for an alfresco meal.
Webb & CoBAR
(www.webbandco.com.au; off George St; h3pm-late Mon-Sat, noon-10pm Sun)
Tucked down a central arcade (next to Crema coffee bar), this classy 'beverage emporium' proffers great craft beer, cocktails and local wine, plus a most excellent menu of share plates, mains ($26) and grazing feasts.
8Information
Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %6332 1444; www.visitbathurst.com.au; Kendall Ave; h9am-5pm)
8Getting There & Away
Australia Wide CoachesBUS
(%02-6362 7963; www.austwidecoaches.com.au)
Has a daily link between Sydney and Orange that stops at Katoomba and Bathurst (Sydney–Bathurst $40, 3½ hours).
NSW TrainLinkTRAIN
(%13 22 32; www.nswtrainlink.info)
Trains go frequently to Sydney ($9, 4¼ hours) and Orange ($12, one hour).
Orange
Pop 38,000
There might be pears, apples and stone fruit aplenty in the surrounding orchards, but it just so happens the town was named after Prince William of Orange. It's become a convivial, fast-growing regional centre with a booming food and wine scene.
1Sights
oMt CanobolasNATURE RESERVE
Southwest of Orange, this conservation area encompasses waterfalls, views, walking trails and bike paths. Swimmer-friendly Lake Canobolas is a great place to start with plenty of picnic areas and a lakeside children's playground – the turn-off to the lake is on the extension of Coronation Rd, 8km west of town.
Orange Regional GalleryGALLERY
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.org.nsw.gov.au; cnr Byng & Peisley Sts; h9am-5pm)F
Next to the visitor centre, the gallery has an ambitious, varied program of exhibitions and some Australian masters.
zFestivals & Events
Orange has four seasonal festivals, where the region's producers make star appearances.
- Slow Summer in early February, which works in with the Banjo Paterson Poetry Festival.
- F.O.O.D Week (Food of Orange District; www.orangefoodweek.com.au) in mid-April.
- Orange Apple Festival at the height of the harvest in May.
- Orange Wine Festival in October.
FOOD & WINE IN ORANGE
Orange is a delicious destination for wine and food tourism. The region has a reputation for distinctive cool-climate wines (see www.winesoforange.com.au). Orchard fruits, berries and nuts are also grown here, and quality lamb and beef are raised.
Dozens of cellar doors and farm gates are open to the public – a good place to begin exploration is the visitor centre. Pick up the Orange & District Wine & Food Guide, with a map outlining six routes in town and beyond. It also highlights cellar doors, farm gates (berry farms, orchards) and local-produce outlets (providores, microbrewers), plus picnic areas along the way.
It's great to explore with your own transport, and there are also companies that can take you touring: Orange Wine Tours (%02-5310 6818; www.orangewinetours.com.au) has options starting from three hours ($75).
4Sleeping
Orange is a popular weekend-break destination, and there are numerous cottages and B&Bs. The website www.orangeaccommodationgroup.com.au lists most options in and around town.
oDe Russie SuitesBOUTIQUE HOTEL
(%02-6360 0973; www.derussiehotels.com.au; 72 Hill St; d $155-260; aWs)
As good as anything in Sydney, this little slice of hotel heaven has boutique written all over it. It has luxe mod cons, including kitchenettes in every studio (a hamper of breakfast supplies is included).
Templers Mill MotelMOTEL
(%02-6362 5611; www.oesc.com.au; 94 Byng St; r from $130; aWs)
Part of the enormous Ex-Services Club, this large and well-run motel has brand-new rooms, plus renovated older options. It's a short walk to restaurants and the main street; the club's facilities (pool, gym etc) are free for guests.
5Eating & Drinking
Byng Street Local StoreCAFE
(www.byngstreet.com.au; 47 Byng St; mains $7-15; h7am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat & Sun)
This cute corner cafe is a big hit with locals. The bread, muffins and pastries are freshly baked on-site, the coffee is excellent, and the hunger-busters (fresh salads and sandwiches) are damn tasty.
oAgrestic GrocerCAFE
(426 Molong Rd; lunch $16-28; h8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat & Sun)
'This is what happens when shopkeepers and farmers unite', says the flyer. The results are pretty wonderful. This rustic cafe-grocer celebrates local produce a few kilometres north of town (on the Mitchell Hwy). Breakfast on house-made crumpets, lunch on Italian panzanella salad or Korean barbecue burger. It's all delicious.
Lolli RediniMODERN AUSTRALIAN
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6361 7748; www.lolliredini.com.au; 48 Sale St; 2/3 courses $68/85; h 6-9pm Tue-Sat & noon-2pm Sat)
See Orange's finest produce wrapped in all its glory at this much-lauded restaurant (bookings essential). The matching of food with wines is well-thought-out, the setting and service are exemplary, and the kitchen creations (including many for vegetarians) sing with flavour.
oFermentWINE BAR
(www.orangewinecentre.com.au; 87 Hill St; h11am-8pm)
Inside a gorgeous heritage building, Ferment shines a spotlight on local wines (it's the cellar door for a handful of small producers). You can talk wine, graze on platters or just admire the stylish fit-out. Ferment's clever offer: half-day bike hire and lunchtime picnic for two for $55.
Union BankWINE BAR
(%02-6361 4441; www.unionbank.com.au; cnr Sale & Byng Sts; mains $16-32; hnoon-late Mon-Sat, to 9pm Sun)
This polished wine bar has a menu for everyone (grazers, sharers, hungry folks) and a wine list to match – 20 by-the-glass offerings make it easy to sample the region. The courtyard is perfect for Saturday afternoon live music.
8Information
Orange Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6393 8000; www.visitorange.com.au; cnr Byng & Peisley Sts; h9am-5pm)
VertoTOURIST INFORMATION
(%1300 483 786; www.verto.org.au)
Can help you find fruit-picking work in the Orange and Young region.
8Getting There & Away
Australia Wide CoachesBUS
(%02-6362 7963; www.austwidecoaches.com.au)
Has a daily link between Sydney and Orange ($40, four hours), via Bathurst.
NSW TrainLinkTRAIN
(%13 22 32; www.nswtrainlink.info)
Runs frequent trains to Sydney ($27, five hours) and Dubbo ($19, two hours).
VILLAGE CHARM
The stately buildings, wide streets, parks and well-tended English gardens align the larger towns of the Central West with a past built on gold-mining and bushranger folklore. The towns have their charms, but the history is often best explored in the small villages, where photogenic main streets feature wide verandahs and old pubs, plus urbane attractions to appeal to weekend visitors: cafes and restaurants, wineries and galleries, and B&Bs and cottages to rent.
Following are some of our favourite small-town escapes:
Gulgong This time-warped hamlet (www.gulgong.net), 29km north of Mudgee, once featured alongside author Henry Lawson on the $10 note. Its eccentric local pioneer museum is a cracker.
Millthorpe Only 22km southeast of Orange, this pioneering village (www.millthorpevillage.com.au) is a cute slice of the mid-1800s. There are some wine-tasting venues and renowned local eateries, including Gerry's @ The Commercial for pub food, and Tonic for fancy-pants dining.
Canowindra Pronounced 'ca-noun-dra', this village (www.canowindra.org.au) 32km north of Cowra has hot-air balloon flights and a couple of cellar doors, plus a museum dedicated to an intriguing local fossil find.
Cowra
Pop 10,000
Cowra is a surprising town with a unique story. In August 1944 more than 1000 Japanese prisoners attempted to break out of a prisoner-of-war camp here (231 of them died, along with four Australians). Since the war Cowra has aligned itself with Japan and the causes of reconciliation and world peace.
Start your explorations at the visitor centre, which shows an excellent nine-minute holographic film about the breakout scene (it has been praised by Bill Bryson, no less).
1Sights
oJapanese GardenGARDENS
(www.cowragarden.com.au; Binni Creek Rd; adult/child $15/8; h8.30am-5pm)
Built as a token of Cowra's connection with Japanese POWs (but with no overt mention of the war or the breakout), this tranquil 5-hectare garden and attached cultural centre are superbly presented and well worth visiting (albeit with a steep entry fee). Audio guides ($2) explain the plants, history and design of the garden.
You can buy food for the koi (carp), or feed yourself at the on-site cafe (which serves mostly Australian fare, with a small nod to Japanese cuisine).
Cowra & Japanese War CemeteriesCEMETERY
(Doncaster Rd)
These moving, well-maintained cemeteries are signposted off the road to Canowindra, around 5km north of town.
POW Campsite & Guard TowerMEMORIAL
(Evans St)
From the war cemeteries north of town, signs lead to the site of the Japanese breakout. A voice-over from the watchtower recounts the story. You can still see the camp foundations, and info panels explain the military and migrant camps of wartime Cowra.
World Peace BellMONUMENT
(cnr Darling & Kendal Sts)
Audio at this outdoor site explains the background and significance of the World Peace Bell. It's a replica of the bell that stands outside the United Nations, and the only one of its kind in Australia.
zFestivals & Events
Cherry Blossom FestivalCULTURAL
(hSep)
Cowra's pretty sakura matsuri (cherry blossom festival) is held over a week in late September, with Japanese food and culture on show.
4Sleeping & Eating
Decent pubs and cafes line the main (Kendal) street.
Vineyard MotelMOTEL
(%02-6342 3641; www.vineyardmotel.com.au; 42 Chardonnay Rd; s/d from $120/140; aWs)
The views from the verandah of this quiet, old-school motel, 4km from town, are quite mesmerising, and the welcome is warm. There are only six rooms, and it's walking distance from the Quarry vineyard restaurant.
Breakout Motor InnMOTEL
(%02-6342 6111; www.breakoutmotel.com.au; 181 Kendal St; r from $130; aW)
Among a handful of options at the eastern end of the main street, this modern motel stands out.
QuarryMODERN AUSTRALIAN
(%02-6342 3650; www.thequarryrestaurant.com.au; 7191 Boorowa Rd; lunch mains $20-30, dinner mains $33; hnoon-2.30pm Thu-Sun, 6.30-10pm Fri & Sat)
Four kilometres out of town, the Quarry restaurant is handsomely set amid the vineyards, and the kitchen output wins regular praise (especially the puddings!). There's a sizeable wine list, too – the Quarry is the cellar door for a number of local vineyards.
Oxley Wine BarWINE BAR
(9-11 Kendal St; hnoon-9pm Wed-Thu, 8am-midnight Fri & Sat, 8am-3pm Sun)
A great new main-street addition, where there's live music, Saturday DJs and retro stylings to accompany your craft beers, local wines and pizzas.
8Information
Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(%02-6342 4333; www.cowratourism.com.au; Olympic Park, Mid Western Hwy)
8Getting There & Away
NSW TrainLinkTRAIN
(%13 22 32; www.nswtrainlink.info)
Has buses to Lithgow (via Bathurst), where you take a train on to Sydney ($42, six hours). There are also bus services to Orange ($19, 1½ hours).
Parkes
Pop 10,000
Parkes has two wildly different claims to fame. First: it's home to an enormous radio telescope. Second: hundreds of Elvis impersonators descend in January. Otherwise, it's a fairly sleepy inland rural town.
1Sights
Henry Parkes CentreMUSEUM
(%1800 623 465; www.henryparkescentre.com.au; Newell Hwy; adult/child $12/6; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun)
North of town, this complex is home to Parkes' visitor centre (www.visitparkes.com.au) plus a handful of exhibitions. The King's Castle is a fun private collection of Elvis memorabilia – many items were once owned by the King (including his iconic peacock belt). There are also impressive collections dedicated to vintage cars, antique machinery, and local history.
Parkes Radio TelescopeTELESCOPE
(%02-6861 1777; www.csiro.au/parkes; Newell Hwy; hvisitor centre 8.30am-4.15pm)
Built by the Commonwealth Scientific & Industrial Research Organisation (CSIRO) in 1961, this telescope is 6km east of the Newell Hwy, 19km north of Parkes.
It became famous thanks to the film The Dish (2000), which told a (somewhat fictionalised) account of the telescope's role in relaying live footage of the Apollo 11 moon landing in 1969. There's a visitor centre with space info, a 3D theatre, and information on radio astronomy (the study of radio waves that come from celestial objects).
zFestivals & Events
Elvis FestivalMUSIC
(www.parkeselvisfestival.com.au; hJan)
In the second week of January, Parkes' population doubles as visitors flock to celebrate Elvis' birthday and spend five days whooping it up with impersonators, concerts, busking competitions, a street parade (Elvis-themed floats, vintage cars, the works), karaoke and outdoor cinema.
WORTH A TRIP
UTES IN THE PADDOCK
oUtes in the PaddockART INSTALLATION
About 70km from Parkes on the Condobolin road (well signposted), Utes in the Paddock is a one-of-a-kind art installation, and a quirky and fun tribute to outback life. Here, 20 iconic vehicles (only Holdens!) have been given a creative makeover. Admire Utezilla, the Emute, the TribUte, and Dame Edna on the 'loo'.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hotel GracelandsHOTEL
(%02-6862 3459; www.gracelandsparkes.com.au; 7-9 Bushman St; s/d from $89/119; aW)
Most Parkes motels are along the highway, but this is a backstreet option, freshly renovated and home to compact, spotless rooms. There's a good restaurant, Ikon, attached.
Old Parkes ConventB&B
(%02-6862 5385; www.parkesconvent.com.au; 33 Currajong St; s/d $150/190; a)
This charming heritage building has two impeccably attired apartments filled with antiques.
BellasITALIAN
(%02-6862 4212; ww.bellascafe.com.au; 245 Clarinda St; dinner mains $18-33; h8am-10pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun)
Breakfast at this quality all-day option treads familiar ground (with some fun tempters like Sicilian doughnuts). From lunchtime, the menu skews heavily to Italy: crowd-pleasing panini, pizzas, pasta and risottos.
Dish CafeCAFE
(Parkes Radio Telescope; lunch $9-20; h8.30am-3.30pm)
In the shadow of the telescope, this cafe has a range of brekky and lunch options (full marks for 'eggs benedish' on the menu).
8Getting There & Away
NSW TrainLinkBUS
(%13 22 32; www.nswtrainlink.info)
Runs up to three daily connections with Sydney (from $56, seven to 10 hours), involving train and bus services connecting at Orange or Lithgow.
Dubbo
Pop 32,300
The important rural centre of Dubbo is on one of the main inland north–south driving routes and is a gateway of sorts to the outback.
1Sights
oTaronga Western Plains ZooZOO
(%02-6881 1400; www.taronga.org.au; Obley Rd; 2-day passes adult/child $47/24; h9am-4pm)
This is Dubbo's star attraction, not to mention one of the best zoos in regional Australia. You can walk the 6km circuit, hire a bike ($15) or drive your car, getting out at enclosures along the way. Guided walks (adult/child $15/7.50) start at 6.45am on weekends (additional days in school holidays). There are free barbecues and picnic grounds at the zoo, as well as cafes and kiosks.
Book ahead for special animal encounters, or for the glorious accommodation packages – spend a night at a bush camp, in family-sized cabins or safari-style lodges, overlooking savannah.
Western Plains Cultural CentreMUSEUM
(www.wpccdubbo.org.au; 76 Wingewarra St; h10am-4pm Wed-Sun)F
Incorporating Dubbo's regional museum and gallery plus a lovely cafe, the cultural centre is housed in a swanky architectural space cleverly incorporating the main hall of Dubbo's former high school. The combination befits the centre's exhibitions, both contemporary and historic.
Old Dubbo GaolMUSEUM
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.olddubbogaol.com.au; 90 Macquarie St; adult/child $15/5; h9am-4pm)
This is a museum where 'animatronic' characters tell their stories. There are also characters in costume and guided tours on weekends (daily in school holidays); twilight tours are possible too. Creepy but authentic.
4Sleeping
There are plenty of hotels on Cobra St, and two large, family friendly camping grounds with cabins. Although they're not cheap, the accommodation packages at Taronga Western Plains Zoo make for a night to remember.
Ibis Budget DubboHOTEL
(%02-6882 9211; www.ibisbudget.com; cnr Mitchell & Newell Hwys; tw/d/f $59/69/89; aiWs)
If you're simply after value for money, this is a good bet. Rooms are no-frills and compact, but come with TV, air-con and en suite. Breakfast is cheap at $7.
No 95 DubboMOTEL
(%02-6882 7888; www.no95.com.au; 95 Cobra St; r $135; aWs)
Don't be put off by the uninspiring facade: inside, the rooms are equipped with top-notch furniture, linen and appliances. Facilities are first rate.
Westbury GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6881 6105; www.westburydubbo.com.au; cnr Brisbane & Wingewarra Sts; s/d $125/150; aW)
This lovely old heritage home (1915) has six spacious, elegant rooms, and a delightful Thai restaurant attached.
5Eating
Village Bakery CafeCAFE
(www.villagebakerycafe.com.au; 113a Darling St; h6am-5.30pm; Wc)
Award-winning meat pies, sandwiches and a kids’ playground make this an easy choice, helped along by cabinets full of old-school cakes and desserts.
Two Doors Tapas & Wine BarTAPAS
(%02-6885 2333; www.twodoors.com.au; 215 Macquarie St; dishes $7-20; h4pm-late Tue-Fri, from 10am Sat)
Kick back in a leafy courtyard below street level, while munching on flavour-packed plates of halloumi skewers, soft-shell crab or slow-roasted pork belly.
8Information
Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6801 4450; www.dubbo.com.au; cnr Macquarie St & Newell Hwy; h9am-5pm)
At the northern end of town. Good info, bikes for hire.
8Getting There & Around
ARex (www.rex.com.au) and Qantas (www.qantas.com.au) have flights to Sydney; Rex also has flights to Broken Hill.
Dubbo is a regional hub for transport, with major highways meeting here:
A32 Mitchell Hwy between Sydney and Adelaide
A39 Newell Hwy between Melbourne and Brisbane
B84 Golden Hwy from Newcastle
NSW TrainLinkTRAIN
(%13 22 32; www.nswtrainlink.info)
Runs frequent trains to/from Sydney (from $55, 6½ hours), plus buses to most regional centres and major NSW outback towns, including Lightning Ridge, Bourke and Broken Hill.
Mudgee
Pop 9830
Mudgee is an Aboriginal word for 'nest in the hills', a fitting name for this pretty town surrounded by vineyards and rolling hills. The wineries come hand-in-hand with excellent food, making Mudgee a stellar weekend getaway.
1Sights
Mudgee's 35 cellar doors (all family-owned operations) are primarily clustered northeast of town. Get details from the visitor centre: some vineyards have outstanding restaurants, some have accommodation, some open weekends only.
oLowe WinesWINERY
(%03-6372 0800; www.lowewine.com.au; Tinja Lane; h10am-5pm)
You can follow a walking/cycling trail through the orchards and vines of this idyllic organic farm, past donkeys and chickens to picnic grounds. The cellar door has tastings and a superb grazing platter ($30) of local flavours, and Zin House is on the grounds. Check the website for events, too.
Logan WinesWINERY
(www.loganwines.com.au; 33 Castlereagh Hwy; h10am-5pm)
An impressive and modern cellar-door experience 15km east of Mudgee.
Pieter van Gent Winery & VineyardWINERY
(www.pvgwinery.com.au; 141 Black Springs Rd; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10.30am-4pm Sun)
Heavenly white port and muscat, and tastings in a photogenic oak-barrel room.
Robert Stein Winery & VineyardWINERY
(www.robertstein.com.au; Pipeclay Lane; h10am-4.30pm)
A small, rustic cellar door plus a vintage motorcycle museum (free). There's also an excellent paddock-to-plate restaurant, Pipeclay Pumphouse.
di Lusso EstateWINERY
(www.dilusso.com.au; 162 Eurunderee Lane; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, to 4pm Sun)
Play bocce, taste-test home-grown olives and figs, eat pizza and sample Italian wine varietals (nebbiolo, sangiovese etc) at this sweet slice of Italy.
MUDGEE WINES AT A GLANCE
- Best sources of information: visitor centre (the Mudgee Region booklet has a great map); the website www.mudgeewine.com.au
- Best winery tours: Mudgee Wine & Country Tours (%02-6372 2367; www.mudgeewinetours.com.au; half-/full-day wine tours $50/80) and Mudgee Tourist Bus (%02-6372 4475; www.mudgeetouristbus.com.au; half-/full-day wine tours $45/70)
- Best wine bar: Roth's
- Best time to visit: September for the three-week Mudgee Wine & Food Festival
4Sleeping
Mudgee Riverside Tourist ParkCAMPGROUND, CABINS
(%02-6372 2531; www.mudgeeriverside.com.au; 22 Short St; sites $24-31, cabins from $90; a)
Super-central, leafy and well run.
oPerry Street HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL
(%02-6372 7650; www.perrystreethotel.com.au; cnr Perry & Gladstone Sts; ste from $165; aW)
Stunning apartment suites make a sophisticated choice in town. The attention to detail is outstanding, right down to the kimono bathrobes, Nespresso machine and free gourmet snacks.
Cobb & Co Boutique HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL
(%02-6372 7245; www.cobbandcocourt.com.au; 97 Market St; r from $160; aW)
In the centre of town, this place has mod cons elegantly suited to its heritage style. Two-night minimum stay on weekends.
5Eating & Drinking
Alby & EsthersCAFE
(www.albyandesthers.com.au; 61 Market St; mains $10-18; h8am-5pm Mon-Thu, to late Fri & Sat)
Down an alleyway is this supremely pretty courtyard cafe, serving up fine local produce and good coffee. It morphs into a wine bar on Friday and Saturday nights.
oZin HouseMODERN AUSTRALIAN
(%02-6372 1660; www.zinhouse.com.au; 329 Tinja Lane; lunch $75; hfrom 5.30pm Fri, noon Sat & Sun)
The glorious Lowe vineyard is home to this weekend highlight: long, leisurely six-course lunches of simply prepared local produce (either home-grown or impeccably sourced). Diners share farmhouse tables in a beautifully designed home. You can also enjoy Friday night tapas here ($45). Gather your friends; book ahead.
oRoth'sWINE BAR
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.rothswinebar.com.au; 30 Market St; h5pm-midnight Wed-Sat)
The oldest wine bar (1923) in NSW sits behind a small heritage facade, and serves up great local wines (by the glass from $6), fine bar food and excellent live music. Bliss.
8Information
Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(%02-6372 1020; www.visitmudgeeregion.com.au; 84 Market St; h9am-5pm)
8Getting There & Around
CountryfitBICYCLE RENTAL
(%02-6372 3955; 6-42 Short St)
Rents bicycles.
NSW TrainLinkTRAIN
(%13 22 32; www.nswtrainlink.info)
Buses to Lithgow connect with Sydney trains ($37, five hours).
Outback
NSW is rarely credited for its far-west outback corner, but it should be. Out here, grey saltbush and red sand make it easy to imagine yourself superimposed onto the world's biggest Aboriginal dot painting, a canvas reaching as far as the eye can see.
Wentworth
Pop 1248
The colonial river-port of Wentworth, at the confluence of the Murray and Darling Rivers, is a smaller, quieter sibling to the regional centre of Mildura, 30km away across the border in Victoria. It's a sweetly subdued place with scenic riverbanks and a handful of historic buildings.
Wentworth is considered a gateway to Outback NSW, and serves as one of the jumping-off points for Mungo National Park.
1Sights
Murray-Darling River JunctionRIVER
The point where the Darling River flows into the Murray lies in the town's southwestern corner. The riverside park, accessible from Cadell St, has enormous red river gums shading the banks, plus an elevated lookout from where you can observe the two colours of the merging rivers.
Perry Sand HillsOUTDOORS
Around 6km north of town (signposted off the Broken Hill and then Renmark roads), these low orange sand dunes date back 40,000 years. They are at their best (and most photogenic) at sunset or sunrise.
Historic Buildings
By the Darling River, there's a replica of the modest, colonial-era wharf. Along Darling St, the Old Post Office (1899), Wentworth Court House (1880) and St John the Evangelist Anglican Church (1871) are handsome relics. At the northwestern end of town, Old Wentworth Gaol (%03-5027 3337; Beverley St; adult/child $8/6; h10am-5pm) is a fascinating step back in time, while the nearby Wentworth Pioneer Museum (%03-5027 3160; 117 Beverley St; adult/child $5/2; h10am-4pm) has an eclectic collection: riverboat photos, megafauna displays and more.
TTours
Some tour operators from Mildura may offer pick-up in Wentworth.
Wentworth River CruisesBOAT TOUR
(%0408 647 097; www.wentworthcruises.com.au; adult/child from $25/15)
Three different weekly cruises: the 2pm Wednesday cruise includes afternoon tea; the twilight cruise (6.30pm Wednesday September to March) includes fish and chips and live music; or enjoy a barbecue buffet on board the Sunday cruise at 12.30pm.
4Sleeping & Eating
River-cruising houseboats are an interesting option, and plenty of companies operate out of the Mildura–Wentworth area. Murray Darling Houseboats (www.murraydarlinghouseboats.com.au) gives loads of information and lists operators and their fleets.
Wentworth Grande ResortHOTEL
(%03-5027 2225; www.wentworthgranderesort.com.au; 61-79 Darling St; d/f from $99/160; aWs)
Easily the smartest option in the town centre, this large place has a range of decent, well-maintained rooms next to the Darling River.
oAvoca-On-DarlingGUESTHOUSE
(%03-5027 3020; sites.google.com/site/avocaondarling/; homestead per person incl meals $160)
Ian and Barb run a true homestay guesthouse at Avoca, an 1870s heritage homestead 26km from Wentworth on gum-laden riverbanks. Homestead rooms share bathrooms and include all meals; there's also a self-contained cook’s cottage ($160), jackaroo’s quarters ($25 per person) and simple camp sites.
Travel 6km north of Wentworth along the Broken Hill road, then take the Lower Darling Rd, then turn off at the sign after a further 18.5km.
Even if you're not staying, call ahead to arrange a property tour and Devonshire tea ($15).
oArtback Gallery & CafeCAFE
(%03-5027 2298; www.artbackaustralia.com.au; cnr Darling & Adelaide Sts; meals $8-20; h10am-4pm Thu-Sat, 8.30am-4pm Sun; W)
Main-street offerings of pub grub and takeaway are outshone by this creative corner venue, a stylish two-level conversion of an 1882 bluestone building.
8Information
Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(%03-5027 5080; www.visitwentworth.com.au; 66 Darling St; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat & Sun)
8Getting There & Away
There are no bus connections north. Sunraysia Bus Lines (%03-5023 0274; www.sunbus.net.au) operates between Mildura and Wentworth (35 minutes) on weekdays only.
Mungo National Park
This remote, beautiful and important place covers 278.5 sq km of the Willandra Lakes Region World Heritage Area. It is one of Australia's most accessible slices of the outback.
Lake Mungo is a dry lake and site of the oldest archaeological finds in Australia. It also has the longest continual record of Aboriginal life (the world's oldest recorded cremation site has been found here).
1Sights & Activities
Visitor CentreMUSEUM
The visitor centre has displays on the park's cultural and natural history, and it's here you can pick up maps, pay park and camping fees, and enquire about tours. Next door is the Shearers' Quarters accommodation and the Historic Woolshed, dating from 1869 and well worth a look.
Behind the visitor centre is a re-creation of the 20,000-year-old human footprints discovered in the park in 2003. These lead to the outdoor Meeting Place, of significance to the region's Indigenous groups.
oWalls of ChinaOUTDOORS
A 33km semicircle ('lunette') of sand dunes, the fabulous Walls of China has been created by the unceasing westerly wind. From the visitor centre a road leads across the dry lakebed to a car park, then it's a short walk to the viewing platform. Getting up close to the formations is the preserve of guided tours.
oMungo TrackSCENIC DRIVE
The Mungo Track is a 70km signposted loop road around the heart of Mungo, linking the park's main attractions – you'll pass diverse landscapes, lookouts, short walks and plenty of emus and kangaroos.
Although it's unsealed, in dry weather the road is generally fine for 2WD cars; in good weather (ie not too hot), mountain-bikers may be tempted.
Beyond the Walls of China parking area, the road continues to the pretty Red Top Lookout, which boasts fine views over the deeply eroded ravines of the lunette sand dunes. After that point, the Mungo Track is a one-way road that loops all the way back to the visitor centre.
Pick up a map from the visitor centre before setting out, and come equipped with enough petrol, a spare tyre and plenty of drinking water. You can break the journey with an overnight stay at Belah Camp.
Walking Trails
From Main Camp camping ground, there are short walks such as the Grasslands Nature Stroll and a path to Mungo Lookout.
From the visitor centre, the 2.5km Foreshore Walk follows the ancient shoreline of Lake Mungo, or you can walk or cycle the 10km Pastoral Heritage Trail, linking the old Mungo Woolshed with the remnants of the Zanci Homestead precinct built in the 1920s.
TTours
Day tours to the park are offered from the main gateway towns of Mildura, Wentworth and Balranald, plus Broken Hill. These all include food, and a walk to the Walls of China (off-limits without a guide).
Companies based in Wentworth will often pick up in Mildura, and vice versa. If you prefer, operators will usually allow you to meet them in Mungo to join their tour.
Aboriginal Discovery ToursCULTURAL TOUR
(%03-5021 8900; www.visitmungo.com.au/discovery-tours; adult/child $35/20)
For those who visit the park independently, the NPWS conducts tours from the visitor centre led by Indigenous rangers, with the most popular option being the walk to the Walls of China. Check online for schedules: tours generally run daily in school holidays, weekends the rest of the year. Departure times depend on weather forecast, sunset time etc.
Harry Nanya ToursCULTURAL TOUR
(%03-5027 2076; www.harrynanyatours.com.au; adult/child $180/110)
Indigenous-owned company based in Wentworth, specialising in highly regarded tours of the park. Tours run during the day (April to October), or at sunset (November to March). Pick-ups are available from Mildura or Wentworth (adult/child $180/110, duration eight hours), or join the tour at Mungo ($90/45, five hours). Overnight options available.
Outback Geo AdventuresTOUR
(%407 267 087; www.outbackgeoadventures.com.au; per person $150)
Operates from Balranald. The eight-hour day tour to Mungo includes all the park's highlights; there's a two-person minimum.
MurrayTrek ToursTOUR
(%1800 797 530; www.murraytrek.com.au; per person $145-175)
Sunset and day tours from Mildura.
Discover MilduraTOUR
(%03-5024 7448; www.discovermildura.com; per person $165)
Day trips from Mildura.
MUNGO NATIONAL PARK AT A GLANCE
When to Visit Year-round, but best April to October (summer temperatures are scorching)
Gateway Towns Mildura, Wentworth, Balranald, Broken Hill
Main Attractions Walls of China land formations; outback isolation; wildlife; Aboriginal sites
Transport Unsealed roads into the park are accessible in 2WD vehicles except after rains
4Sleeping & Eating
Camping or accommodation prices quoted do not include park visitor fees.
Barbecues and shaded picnic tables are available by the visitor centre. Unless you plan to eat all meals at Mungo Lodge, you need to be entirely self-sufficient and bring supplies from gateway towns.
Main CampCAMPGROUND
(adult/child $5/3)
Located 2km from the visitor centre (where you self-register and pay). Free gas barbecues and pit toilets are available; flush toilets and showers are at the visitor centre. BYO drinking water.
Belah CampCAMPGROUND
(adult/child $5/3)
Remote Belah Camp is on the eastern side of the dunes. No wood fires are allowed – BYO cooking appliances.
Shearers' QuartersHOSTEL
(%1300 072 757; www.visitmungo.com.au/accommodation; adult/child $30/10; a)
The former shearers' quarters comprises five neat, good-value rooms (each sleeping up to six in various configurations; BYO bedding). Rooms share a communal kitchen and bathroom, and a barbecue area.
Mungo LodgeLODGE
(%1300 663 748; www.mungolodge.com.au; ste $199-269; aW)
Mungo's plushest option is an attractive (and pricey) deluxe cabin at Mungo Lodge, on the Mildura road about 4km from the park visitor centre. There are cheaper self-catering budget cabins that are quite scruffy but scheduled for an upgrade. There are also a handful of unadvertised budget beds ($20) in very basic quarters.
The lodge houses an inviting bar, lounge and restaurant area open for breakfast, lunch and dinner (mains $22 to $32). Bookings advised for meals.
8Information
There's a park entry fee of $7 per vehicle per day, payable at the visitor centre.
Note: there is no mobile-phone coverage in the area.
NPWS OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
(%03-5021 8900; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri)
On the corner of the Sturt Hwy at Buronga, near Mildura.
8Getting There & Away
Mungo is 110km from Mildura and 150km from Balranald on good, unsealed roads that become instantly impassable after rain – a 2WD vehicle is generally fine in dry weather. From Wentworth the route is about 150km, and the road is sealed for 100km.
The closest places selling fuel are Balranald, Mildura, Wentworth, Pooncarie and Menindee.
Ask at the tourist offices in the gateway towns to see if the roads into Mungo are open and accessible by 2WD. You can also phone 132 701 or 03-5027 5090, or check online at www.visitwentworth.com.au/Mungo-Road.aspx.
Broken Hill
Pop 18,500
The massive mullock heap (of mine residue) that forms a backdrop for Broken Hill's town centre accentuates the unique character of this desert frontier town. For all its remoteness, the fine facilities and high-quality attractions can feel like an oasis somewhere close to the end of the earth. Some of the state's most impressive national parks are nearby, as is an intriguing near-ghost town, and everywhere there is an impressive spirit of community and creativity.
Broken Hill's unique historic value was recognised in 2015, when it became the first Australian city to be included on the National Heritage List. It joins 102 other sites (including the Sydney Opera House and the Great Barrier Reef) as examples of exceptional places that contribute to the national identity.
History
A boundary rider, Charles Rasp, laid the foundations in Broken Hill that took Australia from an agricultural country to an industrial nation. In 1883 he discovered a silver lode and formed the Broken Hill Proprietary Company (which now goes by the name of BHP Billiton). It ultimately became Australia's largest company and an international giant.
Early conditions in the mine were appalling. Hundreds of miners died and many more suffered from lead poisoning and lung disease. This gave rise to the other great force in Broken Hill: the unions. Many miners were immigrants, but all were united in their efforts to improve conditions. The Big Strike of 1919–20 lasted for over 18 months, when the miners finally achieved a 35-hour week and the end of dry drilling.
Today the world's richest deposits of silver, lead and zinc are still being worked here, although mining operations are winding down, leading to a declining population.
Broken Hill
6Drinking & Nightlife
1Sights & Activities
oLine of Lode Miners MemorialMEMORIAL, VIEWPOINT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Federation Way; h6am-9pm)F
Teetering atop the silver skimp dump is this moving memorial with memorable views. It houses the impressively stark Cor-Ten steel memorial to the 900 miners who have died since Broken Hill first became a mining town; it's an appalling litany of gruesome deaths. To get here, travel south along Iodide St, cross the railway tracks then follow the signs.
At the time of research, the restaurant here had closed, but another may open in its place.
oBroken Hill Regional Art GalleryGALLERY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.bhartgallery.com.au; 404-408 Argent St; admission by gold-coin donation; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat & Sun)
This impressive gallery is housed in the beautifully restored Sully's Emporium from 1885. It's the oldest regional gallery in NSW and holds 1800 works in its permanent collection. Artists featured include Australian masters such as John Olsen, Sidney Nolan and Arthur Streeton, plus there is strong Indigenous representation.
oRoyal Flying Doctor ServiceMUSEUM
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8080 3714; www.flyingdoctor.org.au/Broken-Hill-Base.html; Airport Rd; adult/child $8.50/4; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat & Sun)
This iconic Australian institution has a visitor centre at the airport. There are stirring displays and stories of health innovation and derring-do in the service of those who live and work in remote places (note: this base serves a staggeringly vast area of 640,000 sq km). It's a real eye-opener, and the video is guaranteed to stir emotions.
oPalace HotelHISTORIC BUILDING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8088 1699; thepalacehotelbrokenhill.com.au; cnr Argent & Sulphide Sts)
Star of the hit Australian movie The Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert, this impressive three-storey pub (1889) has an elaborate cast-iron verandah, plus wonderfully kitsch landscape murals covering almost every inch of the public areas. They're described as 'Italian Renaissance meets Outback' and were painted in the 1970s by Indigenous artist Gordon Waye. There's also a quality restaurant, accommodation and the outback essential: cold beer.
oPro Hart GalleryGALLERY
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.prohart.com.au; 108 Wyman St; adult/child $5/3; h10am-5pm Mar-Nov, to 4pm Dec-Feb)
Kevin 'Pro' Hart (1928–2006) was a former miner and is widely considered one of outback Australia's premier painters. His iconic work is spread over three storeys, his studio has been re-created, and there's a fascinating video presentation about his life and work. You can also admire his Rolls-Royce collection.
Albert Kersten Mining & Minerals MuseumMUSEUM
(Geomuseum; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Bromide & Crystal Sts; adult/child $7/5; h10am-4.45pm Mon-Fri, 1-4.45pm Sat & Sun)
Fascinating displays (and a mind-bending video) explain how the richest lode of silver, lead and zinc in the world was formed through the aeons. Rare minerals and crystals are displayed, as well as a 42kg silver nugget and the celebrated Silver Tree, an epergne (table centrepiece) crafted from 8.5kg of pure silver in 1879.
Jack Absalom's GalleryGALLERY
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.jackabsalom.com.au; 638 Chapple St; h10am-5pm Mar-Dec)F
Octogenarian Jack Absalom was one of the celebrated 'Brushmen of the Bush', a group of five artists that hailed from Broken Hill (Pro Hart was another member). Absalom's oil paintings (and opal collection) are on show in a purpose-built space attached to his home; his works beautifully capture the light and colour of outback landscapes.
Day Dream MineMINE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8088 5682; www.daydreammine.com.au; underground & surface tours adult/child $30/10; htours 10am & 11.30am)
The first mines were walk-in, pick-and-shovel horrors. For an eye-opening experience, tour this historic mine (dating from the 1880s) where you squeeze down the steps with your helmet light quivering on your head. Sturdy footwear is essential. It's a scenic 13km dirt drive off the Silverton road – a total of 33km from Broken Hill.
There are additional tours during school holidays, and claustrophobes can tour the surface area only for $8. Cash only.
Silver City Mint & Art CentreGALLERY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.silvercitymint.com.au; 66 Chloride St; adult/child $7.50/3; h10am-4pm)
This is home to the Big Picture, an amazing 100m-by-12m diorama of the Broken Hill outback – the work of one painter, over two years. It's certainly impressive, but also pricey, and the $2.50 charge to simply enter the gallery (really an elaborate souvenir shop) is cheeky.
oOutback AstronomyASTRONOMY
(%0427 055 225; www.outbackastronomy.com.au; Racecourse Rd)
Broken Hill is surrounded by desert, making it a great place to experience inky black skies and celestial splendour. This new company runs one-hour night-sky-viewing shows. The presenter points out constellations and various features visible to the naked eye, and through powerful binoculars (provided).
Viewing is from a lounge chair in the great outdoors (dress appropriately, especially in winter), at the racecourse on the northeast edge of town.
The website lists a calendar of forthcoming shows.
School of the AirSCHOOL LESSONS
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.schoolair-p.schools.nsw.edu.au; 586 Lane St; admission $4.40; h8.15am school days)
For a back-to-school experience and a lesson in the outback's vastness, sit in on a class that broadcasts to kids in isolated homesteads. Bookings must be made at least a day in advance at the visitor centre. The school is closed during school holidays.
TTours
Broken Hill City Sights ToursTOUR
(%08-8087 2484; www.bhoutbacktours.com.au; half-/full-day tours from $60/125)
Day and half-day tours of Broken Hill, Silverton, Menindee Lakes and White Cliffs. Can transport you to Day Dream Mine. Minimum two passengers.
Silver City ToursTOUR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8087 6956; www.silvercitytours.com.au; 380 Argent St)
Half- and full-day tours that include Broken Hill city sights, Menindee Lakes and Kinchega National Park, White Cliffs and Silverton. Multiday packages available.
Tri State Safaris4WD TOURS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8088 2389; www.tristate.com.au; day tours $220)
Well-regarded Broken Hill operator offering one- to 15-day tours to remote outback places like Mutawintji, Kinchega or Mungo National Parks, Corner Country, Birdsville and the Simpson Desert. Travellers can opt to tag-along on tours in their own 4WD vehicles.
PHONES, TIMES & FOOTBALL
When the NSW government refused to give Broken Hill the services it needed, saying the town was just a pinprick on the map, the council replied that Sydney was also a pinprick from where it was, and Broken Hill would henceforth be part of South Australia (SA). Since the town was responsible for much of NSW's wealth, Broken Hill was told it was to remain part of NSW. In protest, the town adopted SA time, phone area code and football, playing Australian Rules from then on.
Tourists beware: time in Broken Hill is Central Standard Time (CST), 30 minutes later than the surrounding area on Eastern Standard Time (EST); you're in the 08 phone code region; and don't talk about rugby in the pub.
zFestivals & Events
St Pat's Day RacesSPORTS
(www.stpatricks.org.au; hMar)
These horse races are the biggest party on the Broken Hill calendar.
OUTBACK SUNSET IN THE LIVING DESERT
Living Desert ReserveNATURE RESERVE
(adult/child $5/2)
One of the most memorable experiences of Broken Hill is viewing the sunset from the Sculpture Symposium on the highest hilltop 12km from town. The sculptures are the work of 12 international artists who carved the huge sandstone blocks on-site.
This spectacular outdoor gallery is part of the 24-sq-km Living Desert reserve, which is home to a flora and fauna sanctuary featuring a 2.2km Cultural Walk Trail and a 1km Flora Trail.
You can drive up to the sculpture summit, or walk up from the sanctuary (around 20 minutes). The lower car park is close to a nice barbecue and picnic area.
The reserve gates close about 30 minutes after sunset. The sanctuary's walks are accessible 9am to 5pm March to November, and 6am to 2pm December to February. Sunset times and opening hours are posted at the visitor centre.
4Sleeping
oCaledonian B&BB&B
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8087 1945; www.caledonianbnb.com.au; 140 Chloride St; s/d with shared bathroom incl breakfast $79/89, cottages from $130; aW)
This fine B&B is in a refurbished pub (1898) known as 'the Cally' – it also has three self-contained cottages, each sleeping up to six. Hugh and Barb are welcoming hosts and the rooms are lovingly maintained. Wake up and smell Hugh's espresso coffee and you'll be hooked.
Palace HotelHISTORIC HOTEL
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8088 1699; www.thepalacehotelbrokenhill.com.au; 227 Argent St; dm/s/d with shared bathroom from $30/45/65, d $115-135; a)
This huge and ageing icon won't be to everyone's taste, but a stay here is one of the outback's most unique sleeping experiences. There are newer rooms with balcony access and en suite, but most rooms are proudly retro and the murals in the public areas are extraordinary. For the full experience, try the Priscilla Suite ($135).
oRed Earth MotelMOTEL
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8088 5694; www.redearthmotel.com.au; 469 Argent St; studio apt $160, 2-/3-bedroom apt $220/260; aWs)
One of the best motels in rural NSW, this outstanding family-run place has large, stylish rooms – each has a separate sitting area and kitchen facilities, making them ideal for longer stays. There's a guest laundry, plus pool and barbecue area.
ImperialGUESTHOUSE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8087 7444; www.imperialfineaccommodation.com; 88 Oxide St; r/apt incl breakfast from $170/270; aWs)
One of Broken Hill's best, this converted heritage pub, with a spectacular wrought-iron verandah, has been graciously renovated and doesn't skimp on creature comforts.
Royal Exchange HotelHOTEL
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8087 2308; www.royalexchangehotel.com; 320 Argent St; r $135-180; aW)
This restored 1930s hotel with an art-deco bent is an accommodation oasis in the heart of town.
5Eating & Drinking
oSilly GoatCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 360 Argent St; dishes $8-16; h7.30am-5pm Tue-Fri, 8am-2pm Sat, 8am-1pm Sun)
What's this? Pour-overs and single-origin coffee in the outback? Nice work, Silly Goat. The menu here would be at home in any big-city cafe, the array of cakes is tempting, the coffee is great, and the vibe is busy and cheerful.
Bells Milk BarMILK BAR
(www.bellsmilkbar.com.au; 160 Patton St; snacks $4-7; h10am-5.30pm; W)
In South Broken Hill (follow Crystal St west from the train station), this glorious old milk bar is a slice of 1950s nostalgia. Sip on a 'soda spider' or milkshake and soak up the memorabilia from one of the Formica tables.
Thom, Dick & Harry'sCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; thomdickharrys.com.au; 354 Argent St; baguettes $8.50; h8am-5.30pm Mon-Thu, to 6pm Fri, 9am-2pm Sat)
A narrow shop cluttered with stylish kitchenware and gourmet produce. Sit in among it (or out on the street) for a decent coffee and delicious baguette.
Silvers RestaurantINTERNATIONAL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %8088 4380; cnr Argent & Silver Sts; mains $25-37; hfrom 6pm Mon-Sat)
It's not cheap, but the unassuming restaurant at the Junction Hotel offers a surprise: tucked among the traditional classics is a selection of tasty curry dishes (veggie, goat, lamb kofta, Sri Lankan chicken). Service is good, and the dessert trolley is a fine retro touch.
Café AlfrescoMODERN AUSTRALIAN
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 397 Argent St; dinner mains $15-29; h7am-late)
The service ticks along at an outback pace but this all-day place pulls an unfussy local crowd pining for its bumper portions of meat dishes (classics like steak and chicken parma) or crowd-pleasing pizza and pasta.
oPalace HotelPUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8088 1699; thepalacehotelbrokenhill.com.au; 227 Argent St; hfrom 3pm Mon-Wed, from noon Thu-Sat)
In a town with dozens of pubs, it's hard to go past the storied Palace for true-blue outback entertainment. There's good food in the Sidebar restaurant (mains $17 to $36), drinks and snacks on the 1st-floor balcony, occasional live music, and on Fridays you can play 'two-up' (gambling on the fall of two coins) from 9pm.
8Information
NPWS OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8080 3200; 183 Argent St; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri)
National park information, road-closure updates and park accommodation bookings.
Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-8088 3560; www.visitbrokenhill.com.au; cnr Blende & Bromide Sts; h8.30am-5pm Mar-Nov, to 3pm Dec-Feb)
8Getting There & Away
Buses R UsBUS
(%08-8285 6900; www.busesrus.com.au)
Provides two or three weekly bus connections with Adelaide ($120, seven hours). Buses arrive at and depart from the visitor centre.
Indian PacificTRAIN
(%1800 703 357; www.greatsouthernrail.com.au)
For an epic overland rail journey (4352km over four days), the Indian Pacific travels once or twice weekly between Sydney, Adelaide and Perth. The train stops for roughly two hours in Broken Hill – time enough for a whistle-stop tour.
NSW TrainLinkBUS
(%13 22 32; www.nswtrainlink.info)
Runs the weekly Outback Explorer train to Sydney ($138, 13¼ hours). Also operates daily buses to Dubbo that link with the Dubbo–Sydney rail service ($138, 16½ hours total journey).
RexAIRLINE
(%13 17 13; www.rex.com.au)
Flies daily to Adelaide and Sydney. There are flights to Mildura five times a week, with onward connections to Melbourne.
Around Broken Hill
Silverton
Pop about 60 people & 4 donkeys
Quirkiness overflows at Silverton, an old silver-mining town and now an almost-ghost town. Visiting is like walking into a Russell Drysdale painting.
Silverton's fortunes peaked in 1885, when it had a population of 3000, but in 1889 the mines closed and the people (and some houses) moved to Broken Hill.
1Sights & Activities
Silverton is the setting of films such as Mad Max II and A Town Like Alice. The town's heart and soul is the Silverton Hotel, which displays film memorabilia and walls covered with miscellany typifying Australia's peculiar brand of larrikin humour.
The 1889 Silverton Gaol (adult/child $4/1; h9.30am-4pm) once housed 14 cells. Today the museum is a treasure trove: room after room is crammed full of a century of local life (wedding dresses, typewriters, mining equipment, photos). The School Museum (adult/child $2.50/1; h9.30am-3.30pm Mon, Wed, Fri-Sun) is another history pit stop, tracing the local school from its earliest incarnation, in a tent in 1884.
Considerably more offbeat is the Mad Max 2 Museum (Stirling St; adult/child $7.50/5; h10am-4pm). It's probably the last thing you expect to find out here, on the edge of nowhere – and it's the culmination of Englishman Adrian Bennett's lifetime obsession with the theme.
There's also a number of excellent art galleries dotting the settlement. Who would expect such arid landscapes to inspire such amazing creativity?
The road beyond Silverton becomes isolated and the horizons vast, but it's worth driving 5km to Mundi Mundi Lookout where the view over the plain is so extensive it reveals the curvature of the Earth.
4Sleeping & Eating
oSilverton HotelPUB
(%08-8088 5313; silvertonhotel@bigpond.com; Layard St; d $120, extra person $25)
In an area off the pub's beer garden you'll find seven suprisingly modern and comfy motel units that can each sleep up to five. The pub itself is a rough diamond: full of character (and characters), and with a menu of basic, inexpensive fare (hot dogs, burgers, fish and chips).
Silverton Tea RoomsCAFE
(Stirling St; mains $7-20; h8am-5.30pm)
Silverton Tea Rooms, with 'cafe' sprawled across the corrugated-iron roof, has a menu offering bushman's burger, damper (campfire bread) and pie or ice cream made with quandong (a local native fruit).
8Getting There & Away
Silverton is 25km west of Broken Hill along a sealed road.
Mutawintji National Park
This exceptional 690-sq-km park lies in the Byngnano Range – the eroded and sculptured remains of a 400-million-year-old seabed. Its gorges and rock pools teem with wildlife, and the mulga plains here stretch to the horizon.
The Malyangapa and Bandjigali peoples have lived in the area for thousands of years, and there are important rock engravings, stencils, paintings and scattered remains of their day-to-day life. Many of these are protected within the Mutawintji Historic Site, only accessible with a guide – for instance the popular one-day tour ($220) from Broken Hill run by Tri State Safaris. You can also tag-along in your own 4WD on this tour, from Broken Hill ($110) or by joining the group at the park ($40).
The park brochure from the NPWS Office in Broken Hill includes a simple map and eight walks or drives through the park. You can camp at Homestead Creek (adult/child $5/3); bring all supplies.
The park is 130km northeast of Broken Hill. In dry weather it's generally accessible to 2WD vehicles, but always come prepared and tell someone where you're travelling. Check road-closure info on 08-8082 6660 or 08-8091 5155.
Corner Country
Out here, it's a different world; both harsh and peaceful, stretching forever to the endless sky. This far-western corner of NSW is a semidesert of red plains, heat, dust and flies – the perfect place to fall off the map.
Tibooburra
Tiny Tibooburra, the hottest town in the state, is a quintessential outback frontier town with two rough-around-the-edges sandstone pubs and a landscape of large red rock formations known as 'gibbers'. It's the gateway to Sturt National Park – be sure to visit the NPWS office (%08-8091 3308; www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au; Briscoe St, Tibooburra; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) and park visitor centre in Tibooburra before setting out.
Both pubs offer accommodation, meals and quirkiness. Visit the Tibooburra Hotel (%08-8091 3310; www.tibooburrahotel.com.au; Briscoe St, Tibooburra), known as 'the Two-Storey', for its wall of hats. At Toole's Family Hotel (%08-8091 3314; www.tibooburra.com.au; Briscoe St, Tibooburra), known as 'the Family', check out the bar adorned with paintings by one-time resident artist Clifton Pugh.
Tibooburra Beds Motel (%08-8091 3333; www.tibooburrabeds.com.au; cnr Briscoe & Brown Sts, Tibooburra; d $130) is a newer option offering an unexpected touch of luxury in its three modern motel-style units.
8Getting There & Away
The Silver City Hwy connects Tibooburra with Broken Hill (332km) via Milparinka. The road is a mixture of tarmac and unsealed – it can be hazardous (and even closed) after (rare) rains. Ask about road conditions at the visitor centre in Broken Hill, at NPWS offices in Broken Hill or Tibooburra, or call 08-8082 6660.
Sturt National Park
North and northwest of Tibooburra, vast Sturt National Park encompasses over 3400 sq km of classic outback terrain. There are camping grounds and picnic areas in four locations; note that only untreated water is available in the park, so come prepared with fuel, food and water to ensure you travel safely in this hot, remote terrain.
About 27km from Tibooburra, Mt Wood Historic Homestead (%08-8091 3308; Tibooburra; d from $100, shearers' quarters bunks $15) provides the impetus for a real outback stay. It's operated by the NPWS and offers comfy homestead rooms (communal kitchen and bathroom facilities) or budget bunks in shearers' quarters.
Most tracks through the park are negotiable in a 2WD vehicle (in dry weather only). The only exception is Middle Rd, which is 4WD-only.
The park stretches northwest to Cameron Corner, reached by a well-signposted 140km dirt road from Tibooburra. A post marks the spot where Queensland, South Australia and NSW meet. In the Queensland corner, Cameron Corner Store (%08-8091 3872; Cameron Corner) has fuel, meals, basic accommodation and camping, and advice on road conditions.
Along the borders you'll see the 5600km Dingo Fence, built in the 1880s to keep dingoes out of the relatively fertile southeast part of the continent.
Wilcannia
In the past, Wilcannia hasn't had a lot of love from travellers, but a couple of new businesses are happily changing opinions.
The town has a large Indigenous population, and a fine collection of old sandstone buildings dating from its heyday as a prosperous Darling River port in the 1880s.
4Sleeping & Eating
oWarrawong on the DarlingCAMPGROUND, MOTEL
(%1300 688 225; www.warrawongonthedarling.com.au; Barrier Hwy; camp sites $20-35, d $120-140)
Just east of town, this new riverside property has lush green camp sites by a billabong, plus the opportunity for bush camping. The self-contained motel units are excellent value, each with kitchenette and barbecue. Amenities are large and spotless. Cheerful managers make the place sparkle – plus there's a friendly emu named Rissole. Still to come: a restaurant-bar and waterfront cabins.
Courthouse Cafe & GalleryCAFE
(%08-8091 5910; www.courthouse.net.au; cnr Reid & Cleaton Sts; lunch $6-13; h10am-4pm Wed-Mon)
On a street lined with heritage buildings, this sweet cafe offers pit stop–worthy coffee and food (including a fine ploughman's lunch), homemade cakes and an arty bent.
8Getting There & Away
Wilcannia lies about halfway between Broken Hill and Cobar, on the Barrier Hwy. The sealed road to White Cliffs is signposted just west of town.
White Cliffs
There are few stranger places in Australia than the tiny pock-marked opal-mining town of White Cliffs, 93km northwest of Wilcannia on a sealed road. Surrounded by pretty hostile country and enduring temperatures that soar well past 40°C, many residents have moved underground.
You can visit opal showrooms where local miners sell their finds (these are well signed), or try fossicking around the old diggings, where you'll see interpretative signs. Watch your step.
You can stay underground at the White Cliffs Underground Motel (%08-8091 6677; www.undergroundmotel.com.au; s/d with shared bathroom incl breakfast $115/145; s) that is custom-built with a tunnelling machine. It has a pool, a lively dining room and simple, cool, silent rooms. The motel's museum on local life is very good – it's free for guests, a pricey $10 for nonguests.
Bourke
Pop 2047
Australian poet Henry Lawson once said, 'If you know Bourke, you know Australia.' Immortalised for Australians in the expression 'back of Bourke' (in the middle of nowhere), this town sits on the edge of the outback, miles from anywhere and sprawled along the Darling River.
1Sights & Activities
Back O' Bourke Exhibition CentreMUSEUM
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6872 1321; www.visitbourke.com.au; Kidman Way; adult/child $22/10; h9am-5pm Apr-Oct, to 4pm Mon-Fri Nov-Mar)
This highly worthwhile exhibition space follows the legends of the back country (both Indigenous and settler) through interactive displays. It also houses the Bourke visitor centre and sells packages that include one or all of the town's major attractions – a river cruise on the Jandra, an entertaining outback show (staged at 11am) and a bus tour of the town and surrounds (note that the cruise and show operate April to October only).
For self-exploration, ask for the leaflet called Back O' Bourke Mud Map Tours, detailing walks, drives, attractions and businesses in the area, including station stays.
Bourke's Historic CemeteryCEMETERY
( GOOGLE MAP ; Kidman Way)
Bourke’s fascinating cemetery is peppered with epitaphs such as ‘perished in the bush’. Professor Fred Hollows, the renowned eye surgeon, is buried here.
PV JandraBOATING
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6872 1321; departs Kidman's Camp; adult/child $16/10; h9am & 3pm Mon-Sat, 2.30pm Sun Apr-Oct)
River trade was once Bourke's lifeline. The three-tiered wharf at the northern end of Sturt St is a reconstruction of the original built in 1897 and, on the river, the PV Jandra is a replica of an 1895 paddle steamer. Hear local history and view river bird life on its one-hour cruises.
4Sleeping & Eating
Kidman's CampCAMPGROUND, CABINS
(%02-6872 1612; www.kidmanscamp.com.au/bourke/; Cunnamulla Rd, North Bourke; camp sites $30-34, cabins $99-139; Ws)
An excellent place to base yourself, on river frontage about 8km out of Bourke. The Jandra cruise departs from here, and 'Poetry on a Plate' is staged in the grounds. Plus there are lush gardens, swimming pools and cabins – family-sized with shared bathrooms, or comfy log cabins with bathroom, kitchenette and verandah.
Bourke Riverside MotelMOTEL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6872 2539; www.bourkeriversidemotel.com.au; 3-13 Mitchell St; s/d from $110/125; aWs)
This rambling motel has riverside gardens and a range of well-appointed rooms and suites: some have heritage overtones and antique furniture, some have kitchen, some are family-sized. A fine choice.
oPoetry on a PlateAUSTRALIAN
(www.poetryonaplate.com.au; Kidman's Camp; adult/child $25/10; h6.30pm Tue, Thu, Sun Apr-Oct)
A heart-warmingly unique offering: a well-priced night of bush ballads and storytelling around a campfire under the stars, with a simple, slow-cooked meal and dessert to boot. Dress warmly and bring your own drinks, as well as your own camp chair and eating utensils (plate, cutlery and mug) – or pay an extra $5 to hire these.
8Getting There & Away
NSW TrainLinkBUS
(%13 22 32; www.nswtrainlink.info)
Buses run daily to/from Dubbo ($67, 4½ hours), where there are train connections to Sydney.