Categories

Budget (₹) covers everything from hostels, hotels and guesthouses in urban areas to traditional homestays in villages. Midrange hotels (₹₹) tend to offer extras such as cable/satellite TV and air-conditioning. Top-end places (₹₹₹) stretch from luxury five-star chains to gorgeous heritage palaces.

Costs

Given that the cost of budget, midrange and top-end hotels varies so much across India, it would be misleading for us to provide a ‘national’ price strategy. Most establishments raise tariffs annually, so prices may have risen by the time you read this. Prices are highest in large cities (eg Delhi, Mumbai), lowest in rural areas (eg Bihar, Andhra Pradesh). Costs are also seasonal – hotel prices can drop by 20% to 50% outside of peak season. In areas such as Ladakh, Kashmir and Sikkim, you'll get a cheaper price as a walk in than booking ahead.

Price Icons

Lonely Planet price indicators refer to the cost of a double room, including private bathroom, unless otherwise noted.

Seasons

ARates given are full price in high season. High season usually coincides with the best weather for the area’s sights and activities – normally spring and autumn in the mountains (March to May and September to November), and the cooler months in the plains (around November to mid-February).

AIn areas popular with foreign tourists, there’s an additional peak period over Christmas and New Year; make reservations well in advance.

AAt other times you may find significant discounts; if the hotel seems quiet, ask for one.

ASome hotels in places like Goa close during the monsoon period, or in hill stations such as Manali during winter.

AMany temple towns have additional peak seasons around major festivals and pilgrimages.

Taxes & Service Charges

AState governments slap a variety of taxes on hotel accommodation (except at the cheaper hotels charging less than around ₹1000), and these are added to the cost of your room.

ATaxes vary from state to state. Even within a state prices can vary, with more expensive hotels levying higher taxes.

AThere's usually a 'luxury tax' of around 10 to 15%.

AMany upmarket hotels also add an additional ‘service tax’ (usually around 10%).

AThey also levy nominal Krishi Kalyan Cess (a national agriculture initiative) and Swaccha Bharat Abhiyan Cess (a national sanitation and infrastructure initiative) charges of 0.05% each.

ARates quoted in Lonely Planet listings include taxes.

ANote that India's new Goods & Service Tax (GST), due to come into force in 2017, may affect accommodation taxes and charges across the country.

Budget & Midrange Hotels

AShared bathrooms (often with squat toilets) are usually only found at the cheapest lodgings.

AIf you're staying in budget places, bring your own sheet or sleeping-bag liner, towel and soap.

AInsect repellent, a torch (flashlight) and padlock are essential accessories in many budget hotels.

ASound pollution can be irksome (especially in urban hubs); pack earplugs and request a room that doesn’t face a busy road.

AIt’s wise to keep your door locked at all times, as some staff (particularly in budget hotels) may knock and walk in without awaiting your permission.

ANote that some hotels lock their doors at night. Let the hotel know in advance if you’ll be arriving late at night or leaving early in the morning.

AAway from tourist areas, cheaper hotels may not take foreigners because they don’t have the necessary foreigner-registration forms.

Camping & Holiday Parks

There are few official camping sites in India. On the other hand, wild camping is often the only accommodation option on trekking routes.

In some mountain or desert areas you’ll also find summer-only tented camps, with accommodation in semipermanent ‘Swiss tents’ with attached bathrooms.

Hostels

There is an ever-increasing array of excellent backpacker hostels across India, notably in Delhi, Varanasi, Goa and Kerala, all high quality, with aircon dorms, cafe/bar, lockers, and free wifi, which are hugely popular with travellers wanting to connect with like-minded folk. They'll usually have mixed dorms, plus a female-only option. Impressive chains with branches dotted over India include Stops (www.gostops.com), Backpacker Panda (www.backpackerpanda.com), Vedanta Wake Up! (www.vedantawakeup.com), Moustache (http://www.moustachehostel.com), and Zostel (www.zostel.com).

A number of hotels have cheap dormitories, though these may be mixed gender and, in less touristy places, full of drunken males – not ideal conditions for women. The handful of hostels run by the YMCA, YWCA and Salvation Army or associated with HI or YHAI (Youth Hostels Association of India) are more traveller-friendly if a bit institutional.

Government Accommodation & Tourist Bungalows

The Indian government maintains a network of guesthouses for travelling officials and public workers, known variously as rest houses, dak bungalows, circuit houses, PWD (Public Works Department) bungalows and forest rest houses. These places may accept travellers if no government employees need the rooms, but permission is sometimes required from local officials.

‘Tourist bungalows’ are run by state governments – rooms are usually midpriced (some with cheap dorms) and have varying standards of cleanliness and service.

Some state governments also run chains of more expensive hotels, including some lovely heritage properties. Check with the local state tourism office.

Homestays

These family-run guesthouses will appeal to those seeking a small-scale, more homey setting with home-cooked meals.

Standards range from mud-and-stone village huts with hole-in-the-floor toilets to comfortable middle-class homes in cities.

In Ladakh and Kerala, homestays are the way to go but standards are fairly simple and prices can be relatively high.

Some hotels market themselves as ‘homestays’ but are run like hotels with little (or no) interaction with the family – reading up on your chosen place will get a view on whether it's a real homestay.

Contact the local tourist office for a full list of participating families.

Railway Retiring Rooms

Most large train stations have basic rooms for travellers holding an ongoing train ticket or Indrail Pass. Some are grim, others are surprisingly pleasant but suffer from the noise of passengers and trains.

They’re useful for early-morning train departures and there’s usually a choice of dormitories or private rooms (24-hour check-out) depending on the class you're travelling in.

Some smaller stations may have only waiting rooms (again divided by class).

Temples & Pilgrims' Rest Houses

Accommodation is available at some ashrams (spiritual retreats), gurdwaras (Sikh temples) and dharamsalas (pilgrims’ guesthouses) for a donation or a nominal fee. Vegetarian meals are usually available at the refectories.

These places have been established for genuine pilgrims so please exercise judgement about the appropriateness of staying.

Always abide by any protocols. Smoking and drinking within the premises are a complete no-no.

Top-End & Heritage Hotels

India's top-end properties are stupendously fabulous, creating a cushioning bubble from the outside world, and ranging from wow-factor five-star chain hotels to historic palaces. In states such as Gujarat and Odisha, there are now increasing numbers of converted heritage properties.

You can browse members of the Indian Heritage Hotels Association on the tourist board website Incredible India (www.incredibleindia.org).

Practicalities

AInternet charges vary regionally; hourly charges range from ₹15 to ₹100 (or as high as ₹500 in five-star hotels); often with a 15- to 30-minute minimum.

ABandwidth load tends to be lowest in the early morning and early afternoon.

ASome places may ask to see your passport.

Security

Using online banking on any nonsecure system is unwise. If you have no choice but to do this, it's wise to change all passwords (email, netbanking, credit card 3-D Secure code etc) when you get back home.

Laptops

AThe simplest way to connect to the internet, when wi-fi is unavailable, is to use your smartphone as a personal wi-fi hotspot (use a local SIM to avoid roaming charges).

AAlternatively, companies that offer prepaid wireless 3G/4G modem sticks (dongles) include Reliance, Airtel, Tata Docomo and Vodafone. To connect you have to submit your proof of identity and address in India; activation can take up to 24 hours. At Vodafone, for example, the dongle costs ₹1500 plus ₹549 for the SIM. A 20GB recharge costs around ₹1999. Portable wi-fi is also available, a pocket-size modem (allow 10 people to connect). The device costs ₹2399 plus ₹549 for the SIM with the same recharge fees.

AMake sure your destinations are covered by your service provider.

AConsider purchasing a fuse-protected universal AC adaptor to protect your circuit board from power surges.

APlug adaptors are widely available, but bring spare plug fuses from home.

Antisocial Behaviour

ASmoking in public places is illegal but this is rarely enforced; if caught you’ll be fined ₹200, which could rise to ₹1000 if proposed changes go ahead.

APeople can smoke inside their homes and in most open spaces such as streets (heed any signs stating otherwise).

AThe status of e-cigarettes is in flux, but there are currently bans in Karnataka, and sale bans in Maharashtra and Punjab.

ASome Indian cities have banned spitting and littering, but this is also enforced irregularly.

Drugs

APossession of any illegal drug is regarded as a criminal offence, which will result in a custodial sentence. This may be up to 10 years for possession, even for personal use, to 10 to 20 years if it's deemed the purpose was for sale or distribution. There’s also usually a hefty fine on top.

ACases can take months, even years, to appear before a court while the accused may have to wait in prison.

ABe aware that travellers have been targeted in sting operations in Manali, Goa and other backpacker enclaves.

AMarijuana grows wild in various areas, but consuming it is still an offence, except in towns where bhang is legally sold for religious rituals.

APolice are particularly tough on foreigners who use drugs, so you should take this risk seriously.

APharmaceutical drugs that are restricted at home may be available over the counter or via prescription. To take these without professional guidance can be dangerous.

Police

You should always carry your passport; police are entitled to ask you for identification at any time.

If you’re arrested for an alleged offence and asked for a bribe, be aware that it is illegal to pay a bribe in India. Many people deal with an on-the-spot fine by just paying it to avoid trumped up charges. Corruption is rife so the less you have to do with local police the better; try to avoid all potentially risky situations.

Websites & Publications

Bombay Dost (http://bombaydost.co.in) Annual LGBTQ India magazine, since 1990.

Gaysi Zine (http://gaysifamily.com/) Thoughtful monthly magazine and website featuring gay writing and issues.

Indja Pink (www.indjapink.co.in) India’s first ‘gay travel boutique’ founded by a well-known Indian fashion designer.

Pink Pages (https://pink-pages.co.in/) A national gay magazine for nearly 10 years.

Queer Azaadi Mumbai (http://queerazaadi.wordpress.com) Mumbai’s queer pride blog, with news.

Queer Ink (www.queer-ink.com) Online bookstore specialising in gay- and lesbian-interest books from the subcontinent.

Salvation Star A Facebook community in Mumbai organising and promoting gay events and parties.

Orinam (orinam.net) Has helpful up-to-date info on LGBT support, events, pride marches, etc in Chennai and Tamil Nadu.

Support Groups

Gay Bombay (www.gaybombay.org) Lists gay events as well as offering support and advice.

Gay Delhi (www.gaydelhi.org) LGBT support group, also organises social events in Delhi.

Indian Dost (www.indiandost.com/gay.php) News and information including contact groups in India.

ATMs & Eftpos

AATMs are widespread.

AVisa, MasterCard, Cirrus, and Maestro are the most commonly accepted cards.

AATMs at Axis Bank, Citibank, HDFC, HSBC, ICICI and State Bank of India recognise foreign cards. Other banks may accept major cards (Visa, Mastercard etc).

AThe limit you may withdraw in one transaction varies. It can be as low as ₹2000, up to a maximum of usually ₹10,000. The higher the amount you withdraw, the less charges you will incur. Citibank ATMs are often the best for withdrawing large amount of cash in one transation.

ABefore your trip, check whether your card can access banking networks in India and ask for details of charges.

ANotify your bank that you’ll be using your card in India to avoid having it blocked; take along your bank’s phone number in case.

AAlways keep the emergency lost-and-stolen numbers for your credit cards in a safe place, separate from your cards, and report any loss or theft immediately.

AAway from major towns, always carry cash (including a stock of rupees).

Black Market

Black-market moneychangers exist but legal moneychangers are so common that there’s no reason to use illegal services, except perhaps to change small amounts of cash at land border crossings. If someone approaches you on the street and offers to change money, you’re probably being set up for a scam.

Cash

AMajor currencies such as US dollars, pounds sterling and euros are easy to change throughout India.

ASome banks also accept other currencies such as Australian and Canadian dollars, and Swiss francs.

APrivate moneychangers deal with a wider range of currencies, but Pakistani, Nepali and Bangladeshi currency can be harder to change away from the border.

AWhen travelling off the beaten track, always carry an adequate stock of rupees.

AWhenever changing money, or receiving change, check every note. Don’t accept any filthy, ripped or disintegrating notes, as these will be difficult to use.

AIt can be tough getting change, so a stock of smaller currency (₹10, ₹20 and ₹50 notes) is invaluable.

AYou can change any leftover rupees back into foreign currency most easily at the airport. You may have to present encashment certificates or credit-card/ATM receipts, and show your passport and airline ticket.

Credit & Debit Cards

ACredit cards are accepted at a growing number of shops, upmarket restaurants, and midrange and top-end hotels, and they can usually be used to pay for flights and train tickets.

ACash advances on major credit cards are also possible at some banks.

AMasterCard and Visa are the most widely accepted cards.

Currency

The Indian rupee (₹) is divided into 100 paise (p), but only 50 paise coins are legal tender and these are rarely seen. Coins come in denominations of ₹1, ₹2, ₹5 and ₹10 (the 1s and 2s look almost identical); notes come in ₹5, ₹10, ₹20, ₹50, ₹100, ₹500 and ₹2000.

The Indian rupee is linked to a basket of currencies and has been subject to fluctuations in recent years.

Encashment Certificates

AIndian law states that all foreign currency must be changed at official moneychangers or banks.

AFor every (official) foreign-exchange transaction, you’ll receive an encashment certificate (receipt), which will allow you to change rupees back into foreign currency when departing India.

AEncashment certificates should cover the amount of rupees you intend to change back to foreign currency.

APrinted receipts from ATMs are also accepted as evidence of an international transaction at most banks.

International Transfers

If you run out of money, someone back home can wire you cash via moneychangers affiliated with Western Union (www.westernunion.com). A fee is added to the transaction.

To collect the cash, bring your passport and the name and reference number of the person who sent the funds.

Moneychangers

Private moneychangers are usually open for longer hours than banks and are found almost everywhere (many also double as internet cafes or travel agents).

Hotels may also change money, but their rates are usually not as competitive.

Tipping

AA service fee is often added to your bill at restaurants and hotels, in which case tipping is optional. Elsewhere, a tip is appreciated.

AHotel bellboys and train/airport porters appreciate anything around ₹50; hotel staff should be given similar gratuities for services above and beyond the call of duty.

AIt’s not mandatory to tip taxi or rickshaw drivers, but it’s good to tip drivers who are honest about the fare.

AIf you hire a car with driver, a tip is recommended for good service.

ABaksheesh can loosely be defined as a ‘tip’; it covers everything from alms for beggars to bribes.

AMany Indians implore tourists not to hand out sweets, pens or money to children, as it encourages them to beg. To make a lasting difference, donate to a reputable school or charitable organisation.

AExcept in fixed-price shops (such as government emporiums and fair-trade cooperatives), bargaining is the norm.

Sending Mail

Receiving Mail

ATo claim mail you’ll need to show your passport.

AAsk senders to address letters to you with your surname in capital letters and underlined, followed by poste restante, GPO (main post office), and the city or town in question.

AMany ‘lost’ letters are simply misfiled under given/first names, so check under both your names and ask senders to provide a return address.

ALetters sent via poste restante are generally held for around one to two months before being returned.

AIt’s best to have any parcels sent to you by registered post.

Rebel Violence

ADue to ongoing terrorist threats, mobile phone use in Jammu & Kashmir, as well as Assam, is more strictly controlled.

ARoaming on foreign mobiles won’t work in Jammu & Kashmir, nor will pay-as-you-go SIM cards purchased elsewhere in India. BSNL work best here. Coverage is scant in Ladakh and Kashmir once you're away from the main towns.

AAirTel and AirCell both offer pre-paid SIM cards; you'll need four or five photos, your passport, address (your hotel) and to wait at least 48 hours.

AForeign mobile roaming won't work and domestic SIM cards are difficult to procure in Assam (except in Guwahati), but you can use a SIM card purchased elsewhere. Airtel and BSNL work best here, Vodaphone works best in Sikkim.

Mobile Phones

Roaming connections are excellent in urban areas, poor in the countryside and the Himalaya. Local prepaid SIMs are widely available; they involve some straightforward paperwork and sometimes a wait of up to 24 hours for activation.

Local Calls

Indian mobile phone numbers usually have 10 digits, mostly beginning with 9 (but sometimes also with 7 or 8).There’s roaming coverage for international GSM phones in most cities and large towns.To avoid expensive roaming costs (often highest for incoming calls), get hooked up to the local mobile-phone network by applying for a local prepaid SIM card. Mobiles bought in some countries may be locked to a particular network; you’ll have to get the phone unlocked or buy a local phone (available from ₹2000) to use an Indian SIM card.

Phonecards

ACalling India from abroad: dial your country’s international access code, then %91 (India’s country code), then the area code (without the initial zero), then the local number. For mobile phones, the area code and initial zero are not required.

ACalling internationally from India: dial %00 (the international access code), then the country code of the country you’re calling, then the area code (without the initial zero) and the local number.

ALand-phone numbers have an area code followed by up to eight digits.

AToll-free numbers begin with %1800.

ATo make interstate calls to a mobile phone, add 0 before the 10-digit number.

ATo call a land phone from a mobile phone, you always have to add the area code (with the initial zero).

ASome call centre numbers might require the initial zero (eg calling an airline ticketing service based in Delhi from Karnataka).

AA Home Country Direct service, which gives you access to the international operator in your home country, exists for the US (%000 117) and the UK (%000 4417).

ATo access an international operator elsewhere, dial %000 127. The operator can place an international call and allow you to make collect calls.

Entry Requirements

Visas are available at Indian missions worldwide, though in many countries, applications are processed by a separate private company.

AStudent and business visas have strict conditions (consult the Indian embassy for details).

AA standard 180-day tourist visa permits multiple entry for most nationalities.

AFive- and 10-year tourist visas are available to US citizens only under a bilateral arrangement; however, you can still only stay in the country for up to 180 days continuously.

ACurrently you are required to submit two digital photographs with your visa application (format jpeg 10-300kb)

AAn onward travel ticket is a requirement for some visas, but this isn’t always enforced (check in advance).

AVisas are priced in the local currency and may have an added service fee.

AExtended visas are possible for those of Indian origin (excluding those in Pakistan and Bangladesh) who hold a non-Indian passport and live abroad.

AFor visas lasting more than six months, you’re supposed to register at the Foreigners' Regional Registration Office (FRRO; GOOGLE MAP ; %011-26711443; frrodil@nic.in; Level 2, East Block 8, Sector 1, Rama Krishna Puram; h9.30am-3pm Mon-Fri; mGreen Park) in Delhi within 14 days of arriving in India; enquire about these special conditions when you apply for your visa.

ACheck with the Indian embassy in your home country for any special conditions that may exist for your nationality.

Re-entry Requirements

Most tourists are permitted to transit freely between India and its neighbouring countries. If you plan to fly out of India and don't have a visa covering re-entry to India already, it's a real hassle getting a new visa in Kathmandu. However, citizens of Afghanistan, China, Iran, Pakistan, Iraq, Sudan, foreigners of Pakistan and Stateless persons are barred from re-entering India within two months of the date of their previous exit.

E-Tourist Visa

Citizens from over 100 countries, from Albania to Zimbabwe, can apply for a 30-day e-Tourist visa online at indianvisaonline.gov.in a minimum of four and a maximum of 30 days before they are due to travel.

The fee is US$60, and it's necessary to upload a photograph as well as a copy of your passport, have at least six month's validity in your passport, and at least two pages blank. The facility is available at 16 airports, including Delhi, Mumbai, Bengaluru (Bangalore), Chennai, Kochi, Goa, Hyderabad, Kolkata and Thiruvanathapuram airports, though you can exit through any airport. You should also have a return or onward ticket, though proof of this is not usually requested.

If your application is approved, you will receive an attachment to an email, which you'll need to print out and take with you to the airport. You'll then have the e-Tourist visa stamped into your passport at the airport, hence the term 'Visa on Arrival', though you need to apply for it beforehand. It is valid from the date of arrival.

Visa Extensions

India is extremely stringent with visa extensions. At the time of writing, the government was granting extensions only in circumstances such as medical emergencies or theft of passport just before the applicant planned to leave the country (at the end of their visa).

If you do need to extend your visa due to any such exigency, you should contact the Foreigners' Regional Registration Office in Delhi. This is also the place to come for a replacement visa, and if you need your lost/stolen passport replaced (required before you can leave the country). Regional FRROs are even less likely to grant an extension.

Assuming you meet the stringent criteria, the FRRO is permitted to issue an extension of 14 days (free for nationals of most countries; enquire on application). You must bring one passport photo (take two, just in case), your passport (or emergency travel document, if your passport is missing), and a letter from the hospital where you're having treatment if it's a medical emergency. Note that this system is designed to get you out of the country promptly with the correct official stamps, not to give you two extra weeks of travel and leisure.

Travel Permits

Access to certain parts of India – particularly disputed border areas – is controlled by a system of permits that applies slightly differently to Indian citizens and foreigners.

A permit known as an Inner-Line Permit (ILP) or a Restricted Area Permit (RAP) is required to visit Arunachal Pradesh, Sikkim and certain parts of Himachal Pradesh, Ladakh and Uttarakhand that lie close to the disputed border with China/Tibet. Permits are also necessary for travel to the Andaman and Lakshadweep Islands, and some parts of Kutch in Gujarat.

Obtaining the ILP/RAP is usually a formality, but travel agents must apply on your behalf for certain areas, including many trekking routes passing close to the border.

Permits are issued by regional magistrates and district commissioners, either directly to travellers (for free) or through travel agents (for a fee). In some places you also need to pay an Environmental Tax of ₹ 300; ensure you keep the receipt.

In Odisha, permission is no longer required to visit tribal regions, and there’s nothing to stop tourists from taking a bus or taxi to visit regional markets, but some villages are off-limits to visitors (due to potential Maoist activity), so seek local advice before setting out.

Double-check with tourism officials to see if permit requirements have undergone any changes before you head out to these areas.