Andaman Islands
Andaman Islands
Why Go?
With breathtakingly beautiful coastline, lush forested interior, fantastic diving possibilities and a far-flung location, the Andaman Islands are a perfect place to ramble around or simply chill out on sun-toasted beaches.
Shimmering turquoise waters are surrounded by primeval jungle and mangrove forest, and its sugar-white beaches melt under glorious flame-and-purple sunsets. The population is a friendly mix of South and Southeast Asian settlers, as well as Negrito ethnic groups whose arrival here still has anthropologists somewhat baffled. Adding to the intrigue is its remote location, some 1370km from the Indian mainland, meaning the islands are geographically more Southeast Asia – just 150km from Indonesia and 190km from Myanmar.
Comprising 572 islands, only a dozen or so are open to tourists, Havelock by far being the most popular for its splendid beaches and diving. The Nicobar Islands are strictly off limits to tourists, as are the various patches of tribal areas.
When to Go
ADec–Mar Warm, sunny days, optimal diving conditions and turtle nesting.
AOct–Dec & Mar–mid-May Weather is a mixed bag, but fewer tourists and lower costs.
AFeb–Aug Pumping waves on Little Andaman for experienced surfers.
Best Places to Sleep
Andaman Islands Highlights
1 Havelock Island Snorkelling, diving and socialising on this picturesque island.
2 Neil Island Easing into a blissfully mellow pace of life.
3 Ross Island Learning about Port Blair’s colonial past.
4 Kalipur Experiencing the wilds of northern Andaman while island-hopping to pristine beaches and coral reefs.
5 Little Andaman Finding Butler Bay and a little piece of paradise.
History
The date of initial human settlement on the Andamans and Nicobars is lost to history. Anthropologists say stone-tool crafters have lived here for around 2000 years, and scholars of human migration believe local indigenous tribes have roots in Negrito and Malay ethnic groups in Southeast Asia. Otherwise, these specks in the sea have been a constant source of legend to outside visitors.
The 10th-century Persian adventurer Buzurg Ibn Shahriyar described an island chain inhabited by cannibals, Marco Polo added that the natives had dogs’ heads, and tablets in Thanjavur (Tanjore) in Tamil Nadu named the archipelago Timaittivu: the Impure Islands.
None of the above was exactly tourism-brochure stuff, but visitors kept coming: the Marathas in the late 17th century and, 200 years later, the British, who used the Andamans as a penal colony for political dissidents. In WWII some islanders greeted the invading Japanese as liberators, but despite installing Indian politicians as (puppet) administrators, the Japanese military proved to be harsh occupiers.
Following Independence in 1947, the Andaman and Nicobar Islands were incorporated into the Indian Union. With migration from the mainland (including Bengali refugees fleeing the chaos of partition), the population has grown from a few thousand to more than 350,000. During this influx, tribal land rights and environmental protection were often disregarded; while some conditions are now improving, indigenous tribes remain largely in decline.
The islands were devastated by the 2004 Indian Ocean earthquake, offshore aftershocks and the resulting tsunami. The Nicobars were especially hard hit; some estimate a fifth of the population was killed, others were relocated to Port Blair and many have yet to return. But by and large normalcy has returned.
Climate
Sea breezes keep temperatures within the 23°C to 31°C range and the humidity at around 80% all year. It’s very wet during the southwest (wet) monsoon between roughly mid-May and early October, while the northeast (dry) monsoons between November and December also have their fair share of rainy days.
Geography & Environment
Incredibly, the islands form the peaks of the Arakan Yoma, a mountain range that begins in Western Myanmar (Burma) and extends into the ocean, running all the way to Sumatra in Indonesia.
The isolation of the Andaman and Nicobar Islands has led to the evolution of many endemic plant and animal species. Of 62 identified mammals, 32 are unique to the islands, including the Andaman wild pig, crab-eating macaque, masked palm civet, and species of tree shrews and bats. Of the islands’ 250 bird species, 18 are endemic, including ground-dwelling megapodes, hawabills (swiftlets) and the emerald Nicobar pigeon.
8Dangers & Annoyances
Crocodiles are a way of life in many parts of the Andamans, particularly Little Andaman, Wandoor, Corbyn's Cove, Baratang and North Andamans. The death of an American tourist who was attacked by a saltwater crocodile while snorkelling in Havelock in 2010 (at Neils Cove near Beach 7) was considered extremely unusual, and remains an isolated incident. There have been no sightings since, but a high level of vigilance remains in place. It’s important you keep informed, heed any warnings by authorities and avoid being in the water at dawn or dusk.
Sandflies can be irksome, with these small biting insects sometimes causing havoc on the beach. To avoid infection, it's imperative not to scratch what is an incredibly itchy bite. Bring along hydrocortisone cream and calamine lotion for the bite. Seek medical assistance if it gets infected. To prevent bites, repellent containing DEET is your best bet, and avoid the beach at dawn and dusk.
8Information
Even though they are 1000km east of the mainland, the Andamans still run on Indian time. This means that it can be dark by 5pm and light by 4am; people here tend to be very early risers.
All telephone numbers must include the 03192 area code, even when dialling locally.
Permits
All foreigners need a permit to visit
the Andaman Islands; it’s issued free on arrival from Port Blair’s
airport or Haddo Jetty. The 30-day permit allows foreigners to stay
in Port Blair, South and Middle Andaman (excluding tribal areas),
North Andaman (Diglipur), Long Island, North Passage, Little
Andaman (excluding tribal areas), and Havelock and Neil Islands.
It’s possible (but not routine, so don't bank on getting one) to
get a 15-day extension from the Immigration Office (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; 
%03192-237793; Kamaraj
Rd; 
h8.30am-1pm
& 2-5pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) in Port Blair, or at police stations
elsewhere.
Keep your permit on you at all times – you won’t be able to travel without it. Police may ask to see it, especially when you’re disembarking on other islands, and hotels will need permit details. You’ll also need it to pass immigration when departing the Andamans.
The permit also allows day trips to Jolly Buoy, South Cinque, Red Skin, Ross, Narcondam, Interview and Rutland Islands, as well as the Brothers and the Sisters. For most day permits it’s not the hassle but the cost. For areas such as Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Park, and Ross and Smith Islands near Diglipur, the permits cost ₹50/500 for Indians/foreigners. Students with valid ID pay minimal entry fees, so bring your card.
The Nicobar Islands are off-limits to all except Indian nationals engaged in approved research, government business or trade.
PERMIT COPIES
You need to produce a photocopy of your permit when booking ferry tickets. While you’re not always asked to provide it, to avoid the hassle of having to re-queue, it’s worth taking some copies before arriving at Port Blair’s ferry office: you’ll likely to need them later in your trip.
8Getting There & Away
Air
There are daily flights to Port Blair
from Delhi, Kolkata, Bengaluru, Mumbai and Chennai. Carriers that
service Port Blair include, Jet Airways
(%03192-230545,
1800225522; www.jetairways.com),
Air India (%03192-233108; www.airindia.in), SpiceJet
(%0987-1803333; www.spicejet.com) and GoAir
(%reservations
092-23222111;
www.goair.in). Round-trip fares vary in price depending
on how early you book. A 15kg check-in luggage limit exists. There
are no international flights from Port Blair.
Boat
Depending on who you ask, the infamous boat to Port Blair is either the only real way to get to the Andamans or a hassle and a half. The truth lies somewhere in between. There are usually three to four sailings a month between Port Blair and Chennai (three days) and Kolkata (four to five days), plus a monthly ferry to Visakhapatnam (four days). All arrive at Haddo Jetty.
Take sailing times with a large grain of salt – travellers have reported sitting on the boat at Kolkata harbour for up to 12 hours, or waiting to dock near Port Blair for several hours. With hold-ups and variable weather and sea conditions, the trip can take a day or two extra.
Andaman Shipping
Office (%044-25226873; 2nd fl,
Jawahar Bldg, 17 Rajaji Salai George Town,
Chennai; h10am-4pm
Mon-Fri, to noon Sat)
has boats from Chennai, Shipping Corporation of
India (%033-22482354; www.shipindia.com; Strand Rd,
Kolkata; h10am-1pm
& 2-4pm Mon-Fri)
departs from Kolkata, and AV Bhanojirow, Garuda
Pattabhiramayya & Co (%0891-2565597; ops@avbgpr.com; Harbour
Approach Rd, next to NMDC, Port Area,
Visakhapatnam; h9am-5pm) from Visakhapatnam.
You can organise your return ticket at the ferry booking office at Phoenix Bay. Bring three passport photos and a photocopy of your permit. Updated schedules and fares can be found at www.andamans.gov.in or www.shipindia.com. Otherwise enquire at Phoenix Bay’s info office.
Classes vary slightly between boats, but the cheapest is bunk (₹2500), followed by 2nd-class (six beds, ₹6420), 1st class (four beds, ₹8080) and deluxe cabins (two beds, ₹9750). Higher-end tickets cost as much as, if not more than, a plane ticket. If you go bunk, prepare for little privacy and toilets that tend to get…unpleasant after three days at sea.
Food (tiffin for breakfast, thalis for lunch and dinner) costs around ₹150/200 per day for bunk/cabin class, though bring something (fruit in particular) to supplement your diet. Some bedding is supplied, but if you’re travelling bunk class bring a sleeping sheet. Some travellers take a hammock to string up on deck.
There is no ferry between Port Blair and Thailand, but private yachts can usually get clearance. You can’t legally get from the Andamans to Myanmar (Burma) by sea. Be aware you risk imprisonment or worse from the Indian and Burmese navies if you give this a go.
FERRY CANCELLATIONS
Bad weather can play havoc with your itinerary, with ferry services cancelled if the sea is too rough. It's wise to build in a few days’ buffer to avoid being marooned and missing your flight.
8Getting Around
Air
At the time of writing, inter-island sea planes were no longer operating and it was uncertain whether they would resume.
While the interisland helicopter service
isn’t generally for tourists, you can chance your luck by applying
one day before at the Directorate of Civil
Aviation office (%03192-233601; Port Blair
Helipad, VIP Rd) at the
helipad near the airport. The 5kg baggage limit precludes most
tourists from using this service.
Boat
Most islands can only be reached by water. While this sounds romantic, ferry ticket offices can be utter chaos: expect hot waits, slow service, queue-jumping and a rugby scrum to the ticket window. Have your passport (for photo ID), permit and ticket handy. To hold your spot and advance in line, you need to be a little aggressive (but not a jerk) or be a woman; ladies’ queues are a godsend, but they really only apply in Port Blair. You can buy tickets the day you travel by arriving at the appropriate jetty an hour beforehand, but this is risky, and normally one or two days in advance is recommended. You can’t pre-book ferry tickets until you’ve been issued your island permit upon arrival in the Andamans. Hotels can usually book ferry tickets for you.
Porters can be hired at jetties (expect to pay around ₹50 for an average-size bag), but if your luggage isn't too heavy it's not a long walk to/from jetties.
There are regular boat services to Havelock and Neil Islands (three to four per day), as well as Rangat, Mayabunder, Diglipur and Little Andaman. A schedule of interisland sailing times can be found at www.andamans.gov.in.
Several private ferry companies also run to Havelock and Neil Islands from Port Blair.
Bus
All roads – and ferries – lead to Port Blair, and you’ll inevitably spend a night or two here booking onward travel. The main island group – South, Middle and North Andaman – is connected by road, with ferry crossings and bridges. Buses run south from Port Blair to Wandoor, and north to Baratang, Rangat, Mayabunder and finally to Diglipur.
Car & Motorcycle
A car with driver costs ₹550 per 35km, or around ₹10,000 for a return trip to Diglipur from Port Blair (including stopovers along the way). Motorbikes are available for hire from Port Blair and all the islands from around ₹300 to ₹400 per day. Due to restrictions in travel within tribal areas, it’s not permitted for foreigners to drive their own vehicles to North and Middle Andaman.
Port Blair
Pop 108,060
Surrounded by tropical forest and rugged coastline, lively Port Blair serves as the provincial capital of the Andamans. It’s a vibrant mix of Indian Ocean inhabitants – Bengalis, Tamils, Telugus, Nicobarese and Burmese. Most travellers don’t hang around any longer than necessary (usually one or two days while waiting to book onward travel in the islands, or returning for departure), but PB’s fascinating history warrants extended exploration.
1Sights
oCellular Jail
National MemorialHISTORIC
BUILDING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; GB Pant
Rd; ₹30, camera/video free/₹200, sound-and-light show
adult/child ₹50/25;
h8.45am-12.30pm &
1.30-4.15pm)
A former British prison, the Cellular Jail National Memorial now serves as a shrine to the political dissidents it once jailed. Construction began in 1896 and it was completed in 1906 – the original seven wings (several of which were destroyed by the Japanese during WWII) contained 698 cells radiating from a central tower. Like many political prisons, Cellular Jail became something of a university for freedom fighters, who exchanged books, ideas and debates despite walls and wardens.
Anthropological MuseumMUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; MG
Rd; ₹10, camera ₹20; h9am-1pm &
1.30-4.30pm Tue-Sun)
This museum provides a thorough and sympathetic portrait of the islands’ indigenous tribal communities. The glass display cases may be a tad old school, but they don’t feel anywhere near as ancient as the simple geometric patterns etched into a Jarawa chest guard, a skull left in a Sentinelese lean-to, or the totemic spirits represented by Nicobarese shamanic sculptures.
Samudrika Naval Marine MuseumMUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; Haddo
Rd; adult/child ₹50/25, camera/video
₹20/50; h9am-1pm &
2-5pm Tue-Sun)
Run by the Indian Navy, this museum has a diverse range of exhibits with informative coverage of the islands’ ecosystem, tribal communities, plants, animals and marine life (including a small aquarium). Outside is a skeleton of a young blue whale washed ashore on the Nicobars.
Chatham Saw MillHISTORIC SITE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; Chatham
Island; ₹10;
h8.30am-2.30pm)
Located on Chatham Island (reached by a road bridge), the saw mill was set up by the British in 1883 and was one of the largest wood processors in Asia. The mill is still operational, and while it may not be to everyone’s taste, especially conservationists, it offers an interesting insight into the island’s history and economy. Look out for the bomb crater, left by Japanese ordnance in WWII.
Corbyn’s CoveBEACH
( GOOGLE MAP )
No one comes to Port Blair for the beach, but if you need a break from town, Corbyn’s Cove has a small curve of sand backed by palms. The coastal road here is a scenic journey, and passes several Japanese WWII bunkers along the way. Located 7km south of town, an autorickshaw costs ₹150, or you can rent a motorcycle. Crocodiles are occasionally spotted in the area.
DON'T MISS
ROSS ISLAND
Just a 20-minute boat ride from Port Blair, visiting Ross Island (not to be confused with its namesake island in North Andaman) feels like discovering a jungle-clad Lost City, à la Angkor Wat, except here the ruins are Victorian English rather than ancient Khmer. The former administrative headquarters for the British in the Andamans, Ross Island in its day was fondly called the ‘Paris of the East’ (along with Pondicherry, Saigon etc etc…), but the cute title, vibrant social scene and tropical gardens were all wiped out by the double whammy of a 1941 earthquake and invasion by the Japanese.
The island's old English architecture is still standing, despite an invading wave of fast-growing jungle vegetation. Landscaped paths cross the island and most of the buildings are labelled. There’s a small museum with historical displays and resident spotted deer. A good sound-and-light show takes place daily except Wednesday (₹275 per person including ferry return ticket); the boat departs Port Blair's Aberdeen Jetty at 4pm and returns at 7pm at the conclusion of the show; tickets can be bought at Port Blair's tourist office.
Ferries to Ross Island depart hourly from Aberdeen Jetty behind the aquarium in Port Blair, between 8.30am and 2pm every day except Wednesday.
2Activities
Infinity ScubaDIVING
(%03192-281183; www.infinityscubandamans.wordpress.com)
Set up by Baath, an ex-Navy commander who has extensively dived in the Andamans, Infinity arranges diving and other day trips including fishing.
4Sleeping
Homestays are an affordable alternative to standard accommodation options; the tourist office provides a list of approved Port Blair homestays (doubles ₹1000 to ₹2000).
Aashiaanaa Rest HomeGUESTHOUSE$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %09474217008; shads_maria@hotmail.com;
Marine Hill; r without
bathroom ₹600, r ₹750, with AC from ₹1300; 
a
W)
A reliable budget choice, Aashiaanaa has homely rooms and a convenient location uphill from Phoenix Bay jetty. Pricier rooms get you a balcony and air-con. Wi-fi is ₹60 per hour.
Amina LodgeGUESTHOUSE$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%9933258703; aminalodge@ymail.com;
MA Rd, Aberdeen
Bazaar; s/d ₹550/700; W)
A popular budget choice, Amina has good rooms with TV and a handy, although somewhat noisy, location in Aberdeen Bazaar. No meals served. Free wi-fi.
Azad LodgeGUESTHOUSE$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%03192-242646; MA Rd,
Aberdeen Bazaar;
s/d without bathroom ₹400/500, d ₹700,
with AC ₹900; a)
Basic but adequately habitable rooms, some sporting colourful paint jobs, in a central location.
Lalaji Bay View HotelGUESTHOUSE$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %9476005820,
03192-233322;
www.lalajibay-view.com;
RP Rd; d from ₹800,
with AC from ₹1200;
aW)
This popular backpacker hotel has decent rooms, but it’s the sociable rooftop restaurant-bar that makes the place tick.
oHotel Sinclairs
BayviewHOTEL$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %03192-227824; www.sinclairshotels.com/portblair;
South Point; r incl
breakfast from ₹12,000;
aW
s)
Located on the road to Corbyn’s Cove, 2km outside town, Sinclairs’ large modern rooms open right out to the water. There's a pleasant seaside garden, good multicuisine restaurant and a Japanese WWII bunker on-site.
Fortune Resort – Bay IslandHOTEL$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %03192-234101; www.fortunehotels.in;
Marine Hill; d incl
breakfast from ₹9000;
aWs)
One of PB’s finest hotels, with panoramic bay views, pretty gardens, and modern rooms with polished floors; ask for one that’s sea-facing.
J HotelHOTEL$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%03192-246000; www.jhotel.in; r incl
breakfast from ₹5000;
aW)
A slick designer-esque hotel in the heart of Aberdeen Bazaar, with contemporary rooms and a rooftop restaurant serving multicuisine fare.
SLEEPING PRICE RANGES
The following price ranges refer to a double room with bathroom during high season (December to March).
$ less than ₹800
$$ ₹800 to ₹2500
$$$ more than ₹2500
5Eating & Drinking
oExcel
RestaurantINTERNATIONAL, INDIAN$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; Lalaji Bay
View Hotel, RP Rd;
mains from ₹100; h7am-11pm)
This atmospheric bamboo-rooftop restaurant above Lalaji Bay View Hotel brings a ‘Havelock’ menu to the city, with grilled fish, burgers and more. A cool place to chill out over a beer.
Gagan RestaurantINDIAN$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; Clock Tower,
Aberdeen Bazaar;
mains from ₹100-200; h7am-10pm)
Popular with locals, this hole-in-the-wall Bengali restaurant serves great food at good prices, including Nicobari fish, crab curries and coconut chicken.
AnnapurnaINDIAN$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; MG
Rd; mains ₹100-160; h6.30am-10.30pm)
A good veg option, that looks rather like a high-school cafeteria, serving delicious dosas and rich North Indian-style curries.
Lighthouse ResidencySEAFOOD$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; MA
Rd; mains ₹150-800; h11am-11pm)
Select your meal from the display of red snapper, crab or tiger prawns to barbecue (served with rice and chips), and head to the rooftop for a cold Kingfisher beer.
BayviewMULTICUISINE$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; Hotel
Sinclairs Bayview, South Point; mains
₹300-550; h11am-11pm)
Right on the water, with fine sea views, the Bayview is a relaxing place for an unhurried meal. The menu offers a good selection of multicuisine fare; tandoori fish is ₹350.
Nico BarBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
Marine Hill; h11am-11pm)
The closest you’ll get to the Nicobars, Fortune Bay Hotel’s bar is the spot for sea breezes and scenic views (the picture on the ₹20 note is based on this spot). A pleasant place to while away an afternoon or balmy evening with a frosty cocktail.
8Information
Port Blair is the only place in the
Andamans where you can reliably change cash or travellers cheques
and find enough ATMs. There are several ATMs around town including
Axis Bank ones in Aberdeen Bazaar (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; Netaji
Rd) and on MG
Rd (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ); ICICI (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; cnr
Foreshore & MA Rds);
and at the State Bank of India (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; MA
Rd; h9am-noon
& 1-3pm Mon-Sat, 10am-noon Sat, closed 2nd & 4th Sat each
month), where foreign
currency can be changed.
Andaman & Nicobar TourismTOURIST INFORMATION
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %03192-232694; www.andamans.gov.in;
Kamaraj Rd; h8.30am-1pm
& 2-5pm)
The main island tourist office has brochures and is the place to book permits for areas around Port Blair.
GB Pant HospitalHOSPITAL
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %03192-233473,
emergency 03192-232102;
GB Pant Rd)
The premier public hospital in the Andamans.
Island TravelsTRAVEL AGENCY
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %03192-233358; www.islandtravelsandaman.com;
MA Rd, Aberdeen
Bazaar; h10am-1pm
& 2-6pm Mon-Sat)
Come here to book flights, boat charters and guides.
8Getting There & Away
Boat
Most interisland ferries depart from
Phoenix Bay Jetty. Tickets can be purchased from its ferry booking office (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; h9am-1pm &
2-4pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat). Ferries can be pre-booked one to three
days in advance; if they are sold out you can chance your luck with
a same-day ticket issued an hour before departure from outside the
ticket office. There’s a ferry information office (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %03192-245555; Phoenix Bay
Jetty; h5.30am-6.30pm) outside the ticket office.
Ferries to Havelock (₹195, 2½ hours)
depart daily at 6.20am, 11am, 1pm and 2pm, with several heading via
Neil Island, all of which book out fast. Otherwise there are some
private, pricier ferries. Makruzz (%03192-212355; www.makruzz.com) has daily departures to Havelock (₹900 to
₹1250, two hours) at 6.15am and 2pm, which continue to Neil Island
(₹700 to ₹1000, 1½ hours). Coastal Cruise (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %03192-230777; 13 RP Rd,
Aberdeen Bazaar) heads
to Neil Island (₹800 to ₹1100) via Havelock (₹700 to ₹1000) at
7.30am.
There are also daily boats to Little Andaman, which regularly sell out, and several boats a week to Diglipur and Long Island.
New arrivals should make the jetty their first port of call to book tickets. Hotels can usually book tickets, too, if you want to save time.
Bus
Government buses run all day from the bus stand ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; MA Rd) at Aberdeen Bazaar to Wandoor (₹20, one hour) and Chidiya Tapu (₹20, one hour). Buses to Diglipur run at 4am (to Aerial Bay) and 7am (₹270, 12 hours), and 9.30am for Mayabunder (₹200, 10 hours) all via Rangat (₹160, six hours) and Baratang (₹190, three hours). More comfortable, but pricier (around ₹50 to ₹100 extra), private buses have ‘offices’ (a guy with a ticket book) across from the main bus stand.
8Getting Around
To/From the Airport
A taxi or autorickshaw from Port Blair's airport to Aberdeen Bazaar costs around ₹100 for the 4km trip. There are also hourly buses (₹10) to/from the airport (100m outside the complex) to the main bus stand.
Autorickshaw
An autorickshaw ( GOOGLE MAP ) from Aberdeen Bazaar to Phoenix Bay Jetty is about ₹30, and to Haddo Jetty it’s around ₹50.
Motorcycle
You can hire a motorcycle from various
spots in Port Blair for around ₹400 per day. One option is
Saro Tours & Travels (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %9933291466; www.rentabikeandaman.com;
Marine Rd, Aberdeen
Bazaar).
Around Port Blair
Wandoor
Wandoor, a tiny speck of a village 29km southwest of Port Blair, is a good spot to see the interior of the island. It's best known as a jumping-off point for snorkelling at Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Park.
2Activities
Wandoor has a nice beach, though at the time of research, swimming was prohibited due to crocodiles.
Mahatma Gandhi Marine National ParkSNORKELLING
(permit
Indian/foreigner ₹50/500, camera/video ₹25/500; hTue-Sun)
The half-day snorkelling trips to Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Park are a fine option for those keen to get underwater while in Port Blair. The park comprises 15 islands of mangrove creeks, tropical rainforest and reefs supporting 50 types of coral and plenty of colourful fish. Boats depart at 9am and 10.30am from Wandoor Jetty, costing ₹750 in addition to the ₹500 permit which you need to pre-arrange from the tourist office in Port Blair.
Depending upon the time of year, the marine park’s snorkelling sites alternate between Jolly Buoy and Red Skin, allowing the other to regenerate.
ANETVOLUNTEERING
(Andaman &
Nicobar Environmental Team; %03192-280081; www.anetindia.org; North
Wandoor)
Led by an inspiring team of dynamic Indian ecologists, this is the place to gain a sense of the Andamans' wilderness as you learn about the mangroves, intertidal zones, snakes, crocs and much more. Call ahead for further details.
4Sleeping
Sea Princess Beach ResortRESORT$$$
(%03192-280002; www.seaprincessandaman.com;
New Wandoor Beach; r incl
breakfast ₹7000;
aWs)
Just a short walk from the beach, Sea Princess' rooms are decked out in attractive wood tones and come in a range of categories with the beachfront suites being the pick of the bunch.
Anugama ResortRESORT$$$
(%03192-280068; www.anugamaresort.com;
r incl breakfast from
₹3400; aW)
Anugama has basic but adequately comfortable cottages in a bucolic setting among forest and mud flats.
8Getting There & Away
Catch the bus from Port Blair (₹20, one hour) or hire an autorickshaw for ₹200.
WORTH A TRIP
CINQUE ISLAND
The uninhabited islands of North and South Cinque, connected by a sandbar, are part of the wildlife sanctuary south of Wandoor. Surrounded by coral reefs, the islands are among the Andamans' most beautiful. They're two hours by boat from Chidiya Tapu or 3½ hours from Wandoor.
Only day visits are allowed. Unless you’re on one of the day trips occasionally organised by travel agencies, you'll need to get permission in advance from the Chief Wildlife Warden by purchasing the Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Park permit.
Chidiya Tapu
Chidiya Tapu, 30km south of Port Blair, is a tiny settlement fringed by beaches and mangroves, and famous for celestial sunsets. It also has Munda Pahar Beach, popular with day-trippers for its wonderfully natural setting but it's not so crash hot for swimming due to a rocky seabed.
1Sights & Activities
Dive companies based in Chidiya Tapu can arrange trips to Cinque and Rutland Islands, known for their abundance of fish, colourful soft corals and excellent visibility.
Chidiya Tapu Biological ParkZOO
(Indian/foreigner ₹20/50; h9am-4pm
Tue-Sun)
A pleasant place to stroll in a forested setting with natural enclosures for indigenous species such as crab-eating macaques, Andaman wild pig and salt-water crocs.
Reef Watch Marine ConservationVOLUNTEERING
(%9867437640; www.reefwatchindia.org;
Lacadives)
NGO with a focus on marine conservation that accepts volunteers to be involved in beach clean ups, fish surveys and more; contact them directly to discuss possibilities that best match your skills with their needs.
4Sleeping & Eating
Wild Grass ResortRESORT$$$
(%011-65660202; www.wild-grass-resort-port-blair.hotelsgds.com;
r incl breakfast
₹4250; a)
Unfussy double-storey cottages with an easygoing ambience and verdant jungle backdrop. It also has an atmospheric bamboo restaurant that’s good for day-trippers.
8Getting There & Away
Hourly buses head from Port Blair (₹20, one hour); the last bus back is at 6pm.
Havelock Island
Pop 5500
With sublime silken beaches, twinkling teal shallows and some of the best diving in South Asia, Havelock has the well-deserved reputation of being a travellers paradise. Indeed for many, Havelock is the Andamans, and it’s what lures most tourists across the Bay of Bengal, many of whom are content to stay here for the entirety of their trip.
1Sights & Activities
Beaches
RadhanagarBEACH
(Beach 7; MAP GOOGLE MAP )
One of India’s prettiest and most famous stretches of sand is the acclaimed Radhanagar. It’s a beautiful curve of sugar fronted by perfectly spiraled waves, all backed by native forest. It’s on the northwestern side of the island, about 12km from the jetty.
Late afternoon is the best time to visit to avoid the heat and crowds, as well as for its sunset. The further you walk from the main entry the more privacy you’ll get.
Neils CoveBEACH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Northwest of Radhanagar is the gorgeous ‘lagoon’ at Neils Cove, a gem of sheltered sand and crystalline water. Swimming is prohibited at dusk and dawn; take heed of any warnings regarding crocodiles.
Beach 5BEACH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
On the north-eastern coast of the island, the palm-ringed Beach 5 has your more classic tropical vibe, with the bonus of shady patches and fewer sandflies. However, swimming is very difficult in low tide when the water becomes shallow for miles. Most of the island’s accommodation is out this way.
KalapatharBEACH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Hidden away 5km south of Beach 5, you’ll find Kalapathar, a pristine beach. You may have to walk a bit to get away from throngs of package tourists.
Diving & Snorkelling
Havelock is the premier spot for diving in the Andamans. It’s famed for its crystal-clear waters, deep-sea corals and kaleidoscope of marine life, including turtles. Diving here is suitable for all levels.
The main dive season is roughly November to April, but trips run year-round.
All companies offer fully equipped boat dives, and prices vary depending on the location, number of participants and duration of the course. Diving starts from around ₹5000 to ₹6000 for a two-tank dive, with options of PADI scuba diver (two dives ₹18,000), open-water (four dives ₹24,000) and advanced (five dives ₹19,500) courses.
While coral bleaching has been a major issue since 2010 (said to be linked to El Niño weather patterns), diving remains world-class. The shallows may not have particularly bright corals, but all the colourful fish are still here, and for depths beyond 16m, corals remain as vivid as ever. The Andamans recovered from a similar bleaching in 1998, and today things are, likewise, slowly repairing themselves.
Popular sites include Dixon’s Pinnacle and Pilot Reef with colourful soft coral, South Button for macro dives (to see small critters) and rock formations, Jackson Bar or Johnny’s Gorge for deeper dives with schools of snapper, sharks, rays and turtles, and Minerva’s Delight for a bit of everything. There’s also a wreck dive to SS Incheket, a 1950s cargo carrier. Keep an eye out for trips further afield such as Barren Island, home to India’s only active volcano, whose ash produces an eerie underwater spectacle for divers.
Dive companies arrange snorkelling trips, but it can be cheaper to organise a boat through your hotel or guesthouse. Snorkelling gear is widely available on Havelock but is generally mediocre quality, so consider bringing your own if you intend doing a lot of snorkelling.
Most boats head to Elephant Beach for snorkelling, which can also be reached by a 40-minute walk through a muddy elephant logging trail; it’s well marked (off the cross-island road), but turns to bog if it has been raining. At high tide it’s also impossible to reach – ask locally for more information. Lots of snorkelling charters, and even jet skis, come out this way, so be prepared as it can be a bit of a circus. If you head here around 6am, you’ll have a better chance of getting the place to yourself.
Prices are standardised, so it’s a matter of finding a dive operator you feel comfortable with.
Ocean TribeDIVING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%03192-282255; www.ocean-tribe.com;
No 3 Village)
Run by legendary local Karen divers, including Dixon and Jackson, all who have had dive sites named after them.
Dive IndiaDIVING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%03192-214247; www.diveindia.com; btwn No 3
& 5 Village;
1/2 dives
₹4500/₹6000)
The original PADI company in Havelock, and still one of the best.
Barefoot ScubaDIVING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %9566088560; www.diveandamans.com;
No 3 Village)
Popular, long-established company with dive-and-accommodation packages.
Andaman BubblesDIVING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %03192-282140; www.andamanbubbles.com;
No 5 Village; 1hr dive
₹4500, 2-day 4-dive package ₹10,500)
Quality outfit with professional, personable staff.
PROTECTING MARINE LIFE
If you plan on diving or snorkelling in the Andamans, play your part to protect its fragile marine ecosystem. Only snorkel when it's high tide: during low tide it's very easy to step on coral or sea sponges, which can irreparably damage them. In areas of reefs with very shallow water, avoid wearing flippers so as to protect marine life – even the gentle sweep of a flipper kick can result in damage to decades' worth of growth. Divers need to be extra cautious about descents near reefs; colliding with the coral at a strong pace with full gear can be environmentally disastrous. Choose ecologically responsible dive operators.
Avoid touching marine life, including coral, as doing so may not only cause stress and damage (some organisms have a protective coating that is rubbed off if touched, thus making them more vulnerable to parasites and disease), but they could also be toxic.
Finally, clear any rubbish you come across and refrain from taking souvenir shells or coral out of the ocean (it's ecologically detrimental but possibly also illegal).
Other Activities
Some resorts organise guided jungle treks for keen walkers or birdwatchers, though the forest floor turns to mush after rain. The inside rainforest is a spectacular, emerald-coloured hinterland cavern, and the birdwatching is rewarding (especially on the forest fringes); look out for the blue-black racket-tailed drongo or golden oriole.
High-season yoga lessons (per 1½ hours ₹300 to ₹500) are available at Flying Elephant.
Andaman Kayak ToursKAYAKING
(%9933269653; www.andamanhomestay.com/kayak-and-snorkel;
min 2 people 2½hr kayak
₹2500)
Weather permitting, Andaman Kayak Tours explore Havelock’s mangroves by sea kayak, and run memorable night trips gliding among bio-luminescence.
4Sleeping
Pellicon Beach ResortBUNGALOW$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %9932081673; www.pelliconbeachresort.com;
Beach 5; hut from
₹700; W)
Attractive beachside bungalows as well as Nicobari huts with private porches on a peaceful plot of land close to the beach.
Coconut Grove Beach ResortGUESTHOUSE$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %9531835592; www.coconutgrovebeachresort.com;
Beach 5; hut ₹600,
without bathroom ₹300;
s)
Particularly popular with Israeli travellers, Coconut Grove has an appealingly relaxed communal vibe with huts arranged in a circular outlay.
Sunrise Beach ResortBUNGALOW$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %9474206183; Beach
5; r ₹600-1000, with AC ₹5100)
Offers the same thatched goodness as almost every other resort on Havelock – what sets it apart is its budget A-frame huts with water views.
Emerald GeckoBUNGALOW$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %9474286953; www.emerald-gecko.com;
Beach 5; hut
₹1500-3000)
Double-storey bungalows look to the water, while pricier rooms have ambient lighting and outdoor bathrooms constructed from bamboo rafts that have drifted ashore from Myanmar.
Orient Legend ResortGUESTHOUSE$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %9434291008; www.havelockbeachresort.in;
Beach 5; hut without
bathroom ₹500, r ₹1200, with AC ₹2500)
This popular sprawling place on Beach 5 covers most budgets, from doghouse A-frame huts and concrete rooms to double-storey cottages that offer a glimpse of the ocean.
Sea View Beach ResortBUNGALOW$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %943429877; Beach
3; r ₹800-1000)
Chilled-out beach bungalows, backing on to the Ocean Tribe dive shop, a bit away from the crowds.
oBarefoot at
HavelockRESORT$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %03192-214534; www.barefootindia.com;
Beach 7; tented
cottage incl breakfast ₹9500, Nicobari cottage
₹13,500; a)
S
Thoughtfully designed, eco-conscious resort boasting elegantly comfortable timber and bamboo-thatched cottages just back from the famed Radhanagar Beach.
oSilversandRESORT$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%03192-211073; www.silversandhavelock.com;
Beach 5; r incl
breakfast ₹12,000;
aWs)
The highlight of this hotel is its location on a lovely stretch of beach, away from the crowds. Rooms are comfortable with the more expensive ones positioned closer to the sea. There's a good bar and restaurant.
Flying ElephantBUNGALOW$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %9474250821; www.flying-elephant.in;
Kalapathar; r
₹4000)
Hidden away on Kalapathar beach, in a pastoral setting among rice paddies and betel palms, this serene retreat has simple, earthy bamboo duplexes that feature landscaped outdoor stone-garden bathrooms.
Wild OrchidRESORT$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%03192-282472; www.wildorchidandaman.com;
Beach 5; r incl
breakfast from ₹6125;
aW)
Modern Andamanese-style cottages, all set around a tropical garden a stone’s throw from the beach.
5Eating & Drinking
Most people eat at, or near, their hotel but there are dhabas (snack bars) near the jetty or you can head to the main bazaar (No 3 Village) for local meals.
Alcohol is available from a store (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
Beach 3; h9am-noon
& 3-8pm) next to the
ATM at No 3 Village.
Fat Martin’sINDIAN$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; Beach
5; mains ₹70-140; h7.30am-10pm)
Popular open-air cafe with a good selection of Indian dishes and some particularly impressive dosas including paneer tikka and nutella.
Anju-coco RestoINDIAN, CONTINENTAL$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; Beach
5; mains ₹200-800; h8am-10.30pm)
One of Havelock’s faves, down-to-earth Anju-coco offers a varied menu with standouts being its hearty breakfasts, yummy barbecue dishes and platters.
oRed
SnapperSEAFOOD$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
Wild Orchid Resort, Beach
5; mains ₹250-850; h7.30-10am,
noon-2.30pm & 6-9.30pm)
This appealing thatched-roof restaurant with polished-bamboo decor exudes a romantic island ambience. Menu items include lavish seafood platters, pepper-crust tuna and handmade pasta. The outdoor deck seating is a good spot for a beer.
Full Moon CafeMULTICUISINE$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; Dive India,
Beach 5; mains ₹200-490)S
Run by an Irish-Indian couple, this cool thatched-roof restaurant shares a site with Dive India on Beach 5. It does fabulous seafood and salads and a refreshing ginger-honey lemonade. Free water refills.
B3 – Barefoot Bayside & BrasserieMULTICUISINE$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; Village No
1; mains ₹350-500; hnoon-9.30pm)
Come here for the best pizzas in Havelock or
scrumptious handmade pasta. There's good gelato, too! Its breezy
outside decking, with sea views, makes this a great place to wait
for your ferry. Downstairs is Dakshin (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
Village No 1; mains
₹80-270; h6.30am-10am
& noon-3.30pm),
specialising in South Indian cuisine.
CicadaLIVE MUSIC
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
Beach 5; hhours
variable)
Run by the team from Emerald Gecko, this live-music/hang-out venue has a groovy jungle location accessed down a path off the main road across from Beach 5.
8Information
Satellite internet is insanely slow and pricey at around ₹300 per hour.
Havelock Tourist Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %03192-282117; next to
jetty, Village No 1;
h8am-4.30pm)
The official government tourist office provides brochures and information but does not book any tours.
8Getting There & Away
Government ferries run from Havelock
jetty (
GOOGLE MAP )
at No 1 Village to Port Blair three times a day (₹420, 2½ hours) at
9am, 2.45pm and 4.30pm. It's best to book tickets from the
ferry ticket office (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; h9.15am-noon
& 2-4pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) at least two days in advance (most hotels
can arrange this for a small fee). One to two ferries a day link
Havelock with Neil Island (₹335, 1¼ hours), while four boats a week
(9.30am on Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday) head to Long
Island (₹335, two hours) en route to Rangat.
Private (more comfortable) ferries such as Makruzz and Coastal Cruise have daily services to Port Blair via Neil Island.
8Getting Around
A local bus (₹10, 40 minutes) connects the jetty, villages and Radhanagar on a roughly hourly circuit from 10am until 5.30pm. Otherwise you can rent a scooter (per 24 hours from around ₹490) or bicycle (per day ₹100) – your guesthouse/hotel should be able to arrange this or point you in the right direction.
An autorickshaw from the jetty to No 3 Village is ₹50, to No 5 ₹90 and to No 7 ₹500.
Neil Island
Although its beaches are not as luxurious as its more famous island neighbour, Havelock, tranquil Neil has its own unique charm. There’s a wonderfully unhurried pace of life here; cycling through picturesque little villages is a stellar way to soak up the island's character. The main bazaar has a mellow vibe and is a popular gathering spot in the early evening. On Neil Island you’re about 40km from Port Blair, a short ferry ride from Havelock and several universes away from the bustle of life back home.
1Sights & Activities
Beaches
Neil Island’s five beaches (numbered one to five) all have their own personality, though they aren’t necessarily great for swimming due to shallow, rocky sea floors.
Beach 1BEACH
(Laxmanpur)
Beach 1 is a long sweep of sandy coastline and mangrove, a 40-minute walk west of the jetty and village. There’s a good sunset viewpoint out this way accessed via Pearl Park Beach Resort. Dugongs are sometime spotted here.
Beach 2BEACH
On the north side of the island, Beach 2 has the Natural Bridge rock formation, accessible only at low tide by walking around the rocky cove. To get here by bicycle, take the side road that runs through the bazaar, then take a left where the road forks.
Beach 3BEACH
(Ram Nagar)
Beach 3 is a secluded rocky cove with powdery sand. There’s also good snorkelling here.
Beach 4BEACH
(Bharatpur)
Beach 4 is Neil Island's best swimming beach, though its proximity to the jetty is a turn-off, as are rowdy day-trippers who descend upon the beach in motorised boats.
Beach 5BEACH
(Sitapur)
The more rugged Beach 5, 5km from the village on the eastern side of Neil, is a nice place to walk along the sand, with small limestone caves accessible at low tide.
Diving & Snorkelling
Neil offers some brilliant dive sites, with colourful fish, large schools of Jack, turtles, rays, and soft and hard corals. There are several dive operators on Neil Island and open-water courses, among others, are also available.
The island’s best snorkelling is around the coral reef at the far (western) end of Beach 1 at high tide; if you’re extremely lucky you may spot a dugong feeding in the shallows. Beach 3 also has good snorkelling. Gear costs around ₹200 to hire and is available from many guesthouses.
India Scuba ExplorersDIVING
(%9933271450; www.indiascubaexplorers.com;
Beach 1; 1 dive
₹4500)
Neil’s first dive shop, set up by a husband-wife team, is popular for its personalised service.
Dive IndiaDIVING
(%8001122205; www.diveindia.com; per 1/2
dives ₹4500/6000)
Established in Havelock, this professional company also has a branch in Neil. It's based just near the jetty.
4Sleeping
Beach 1
Sunset Garden GuesthouseBUNGALOW$
(%9933294573; Beach
1; hut ₹800, without bathroom ₹300)
Ideal for those wanting to get away from it all, these basic bamboo huts have a secluded spot accessed via a 15-minute walk through rice fields.
SeashellRESORT$$$
(%9933239625; www.seashellhotels.net;
Beach 1; cottage incl
breakfast ₹9000;
a)
Seashell has contemporary, well-appointed cottages that lead down to a mangrove-lined beach. Rooms have TVs and tea-and-coffee-making facilities.
Pearl Park Beach ResortBUNGALOW$$$
(%9434260132; www.andamanpearlpark.com;
Beach 1; r incl
breakfast with fan from ₹3500, with AC from
₹5500; aW)
Comfortable bamboo huts arranged around a flower-filled garden.
Beach 3
oKalapaniBUNGALOW$
(%9474274991; Beach
3; hut ₹600, without bathroom ₹300)
Run by the lovely Prakash and Bina, laid-back Kalapani has simple bungalows. Motorbikes, bicycles and snorkelling gear are available for hire, and the owners have plenty of suggestions about things to do.
Breakwater Beach ResortBUNGALOW$
(%9933292654; Beach
3; hut ₹500-1000, without bathroom
₹300)
Easygoing ambience, acceptable rooms, attractive garden and delicious food.
Beach 5
Sunrise Beach ResortBUNGALOW$
(%9933266900; Beach
5; r ₹400, without bathroom ₹300)
Sunrise has simple thatched bungalows, a short walk from the beach. There's a sweet little restaurant among flowers serving up tasty dishes such as coconut fish masala (₹150).
Emerald GeckoBUNGALOW$$
(%9474286953; www.emerald-gecko.com;
Beach 5; r
₹2000-4000)
Simple, eco-friendly bungalows, with ceiling fans and mosquito nets, set in a coconut plantation.
Neil Kendra
SilversandRESORT$$$
(%03192-244914; www.silversandneil.com;
Neil Kendra; r incl
breakfast from ₹12,000;
as)
One of Neil's most upmarket places to stay, Silversand has cosy contemporary cottages set among shady palms just a short walk from the water.
5Eating
Garden View RestaurantINDIAN, CONTINENTAL$
(Beach
5; ₹50-130; h6am-10pm)
Set in a cool garden, this is a relaxing little spot to drink Kingfisher beer (₹170 per bottle) or papaya lassi (₹60) and tuck into fish curry, prawn fried rice and much more.
Blue SeaSEAFOOD, INDIAN$$
(Beach
3; mains ₹120-300; h6am-11pm)
Small, quirky beach shack with sandy floor, dangling beach curios and a blue whale skull centrepiece that serves simple, tasty Indian fare as well as some continental dishes. A path leads to, arguably, Neil’s best beach. Come here for the unpretentious, chilled-out character and nearby beach.
MoonshineINTERNATIONAL, INDIAN$$
(Beach
1; mains ₹100-400; h8-11am,
noon-1pm, 4-9.30pm)
On the road to Beach 1, this backpacker favourite cooks up satiating homemade pasta and fish thalis. Cold beer can be arranged.
8Information
There’s no ATM or moneychanging facilities on Neil, so bring plenty of cash.
There’s wi-fi access at Pearl Park Beach Resort on Beach 1 (₹200 for two hours).
8Getting There & Around
A ferry heads to Port Blair two or three times a day (₹400, two hours). There are also one or two daily ferries to Havelock (₹400, one hour), and three ferries a week to Long Island (₹400, five hours). Makruzz and Coastal Cruise also have ferries to/from Port Blair (from ₹875, one hour) and Havelock (from ₹710).
Hiring a bicycle (per day from ₹100) is the best way to get about; roads are flat and distances short. You’ll be able to find one in the bazaar or at a guesthouse. An autorickshaw will take you from the jetty to Beach 1 or 3 for between ₹75 to ₹100.
ISLAND INDEGENES
The Andaman and Nicobar Islands’ indigenous peoples constitute 12% of the population and, in most cases, their numbers are decreasing. The Onge, Sentinelese, Andamanese and Jarawa are all of Negrito ethnicity, and share a strong resemblance to people from Africa. Tragically, numerous groups have become extinct over the past century. In February 2010 the last speaker of the Bo language passed away, bringing an end to a culture and language that originated 65,000 years ago.
The Land of the Naked People (2003) by Madhusree Mukerjee provides an interesting anthropological account.
It’s important to note that these tribal groups live in areas strictly off limits to foreigners – for their protection and dignity – and people have been arrested for trying to visit the regions.
Jarawa
The 300 or so remaining Jarawa occupy the 639-sq-km reserve on South and Middle Andaman Islands. In 1953 the chief commissioner requested that an armed sea plane bomb Jarawa settlements, and their territory has been consistently disrupted by the Andaman Trunk Rd, forest clearance and settler and tourist encroachment. In 2012, a video went viral showing an exchange between Jarawa and tourists, whereby a policeman orders them to dance in exchange for food. This resulted in a government inquest that saw to the end of the so-called ‘human safari’ tours.
Nicobarese
The 30,000 Nicobarese are the only indigenous people whose numbers are not decreasing. The majority have converted to Christianity and been partly assimilated into contemporary Indian society. Living in village units led by a head man, they farm pigs and cultivate coconuts, yams and bananas. The Nicobarese, who probably descended from people of Malaysia and Myanmar, inhabit a number of islands in the Nicobar group, centred on Car Nicobar, the region worst affected by the 2004 tsunami.
Onge
Two-thirds of Little Andaman’s Onge Island was taken over by the Forest Department and ‘settled’ in 1977. The 100 or so remaining members of the Onge tribe live in a 25-sq-km reserve covering Dugong Creek and South Bay. Anthropologists say the Onge population has declined due to demoralisation through loss of territory.
Sentinelese
The Sentinelese, unlike the other tribes on these islands, have consistently repelled outside contact. For years, contact parties arrived on the beaches of North Sentinel Island, the last redoubt of the Sentinelese, with gifts of coconuts, bananas, pigs and plastic buckets, only to be showered with arrows, though some encounters have been a little less hostile. About 150 Sentinelese remain.
Andamanese
There were around 7000 Andamanese in the mid-19th century, but friendliness to colonisers was their undoing, and by 1971 all but 19 of the population had been wiped away by measles, syphilis and influenza epidemics. Their population now numbers only about 50 and they have been resettled on tiny Strait Island.
Shompen
Only about 250 Shompen remain in the forests on Great Nicobar. Seminomadic hunter-gatherers who live along the riverbanks, they have resisted integration and avoid areas occupied by Indian immigrants.
Middle & North Andaman
The Andamans aren’t just sun and sand. They are also jungle that feels as primeval as the Jurassic, a green tangle of ancient forest that could have been birthed in Mother Nature’s subconscious. This wild, antediluvian side of the islands can be seen on a long, loping bus ride up the Andaman Trunk Rd (ATR), crossing tannin-red rivers prowled by saltwater crocodiles on roll-on, roll-off ferries.
But there’s a negative side to riding the ATR: the road cuts through the homeland of the Jarawa and has brought the tribe into incessant contact with the outside world. Modern India and tribal life do not seem able to coexist – every time Jarawa and settlers interact, misunderstandings have led to friction, confusion and, at worst, violent attacks and death. Indian anthropologists and indigenous rights groups such as Survival International have called for the ATR to be closed; its status continues to be under review. At present, vehicles are permitted to travel only in convoys at set times from 6am to 3pm. Photography is strictly prohibited, as is stopping or any other interaction with the Jarawa people who are becoming increasingly reliant on handouts from passing traffic.
The first point of interest north of Port
Blair are the limestone caves
(Baratang; hTue-Sun) at Baratang. It’s a scenic 45-minute boat
trip (₹450) from the jetty, through mangrove forest. A permit is
required, and can be organised at the jetty.
Rangat & Around
Travelling north on the Andaman Trunk Rd, Rangat is the first main town in Middle Andaman after Baratang Island. It's primarily a transport hub with not much else going for it on the tourism front. The turtle breeding grounds at Dhaninallah Mangrove is the most popular sight, viewed early evening (mid-December to April) from the approximately 1km-long boardwalk, a 45-minute drive from Rangat.
8Getting There & Away
Ferries depart for Long Island (₹11) from Yeratta Jetty, 8km from Rangat (accessed by local bus), at 9am and 3pm. Rangat Bay, 5km outside town, has ferries to/from Port Blair (₹378, six hours) and Havelock (₹378, two hours). A daily bus goes to Port Blair (₹145, seven hours) and Diglipur (₹65, four hours).
Long Island
With its friendly island community and deliciously slow pace of life, Long Island is perfect for those seeking to take the pace down a few more notches. Other than the odd motorcycle, there’s no motorised vehicles on the island, and at certain times you may be the only tourist here.
1Sights & Activities
Beaches
There’s a lovely beach close to Blue Planet, a 15-minute walk from the jetty.
Lalaji BayBEACH
A 1½-hour trek (or cross-trail jog if you’re feeling energetic) in the jungle will lead you to the secluded Lalaji Bay, a beautiful white-sand beach with good swimming and snorkelling; follow the red arrows from the jetty to get here. Hiring a boat (₹2500 return for two persons) is also an option. Inconveniently, you need a permit (free) from the Forest Office near the jetty to visit.
Diving & Snorkelling
Blue Planet has a dive shop (December to March) and hires snorkelling gear for around ₹100. Trips head to Campbell Shoal for its schools of trevally and barracuda.
You can also get a boat to North Passage Island for snorkelling at the stunning Merk Bay (₹3500 for two people) with blinding white sand and translucent waters.
There’s terrific offshore snorkelling at Lalaji Bay with colourful corals out front from the rest huts. There’s also good snorkelling at the beach near Blue Planet guesthouse, directly out from the blue Hindu temple; swim beyond the sea grass to get to the coral.
4Sleeping & Eating
oBlue
PlanetGUESTHOUSE$$
(%9474212180; www.blueplanetandamans.com;
r from ₹1500, without bathroom from
₹500; 
i)
An old favourite, Blue Planet has thatched-bamboo rooms and hammocks set around a Padauk tree. Food is delicious and there’s free filtered water. It’s a 15-minute walk from the jetty. They also have bamboo cottages (from ₹3200) at a nearby location.
8Getting There & Away
There are four ferries a week to Havelock, Neil and Port Blair (₹195). If you can't get a ferry here from Port Blair, jump on a bus to Rangat to get the ferry from Yeratta, 8km from Rangat, from where two daily boats run to Long Island (₹11, one hour) at 9am and 3.30pm.
Diglipur & Around
Those who make it this far north are rewarded with some impressive attractions in the area. It’s a giant outdoor adventure playground designed for nature lovers: home to a world-famous turtle nesting site, the Andamans' highest peak and a network of caves to go with white-sand beaches and some of the best snorkelling in the Andamans.
However, don’t expect much of Diglipur (population 70,000), the second largest urban hub in the Andamans, a sprawling, gritty bazaar town. Instead head straight for the tranquil coastal village of Kalipur.
2Activities
In season most people come to see the turtles.
oRoss & Smith
IslandsBEACH, SNORKELLING
Like lovely tropical counterweights, the twin islands of Smith and Ross are connected by a narrow sandbar of dazzling white sand, and are up there with the best in the Andamans for both swimming and snorkelling.
No permits are required for Smith Island, which is accessed by boat (₹2500 per boat, fits five people) from Aerial Bay. While theoretically you need a permit for Ross Island (₹500), as it’s walkable from Smith, permits generally aren’t checked. Enquire with Pristine Resort for more information.
Saddle PeakTREKKING
(Indian/foreigner ₹25/250)
At 732m Saddle Peak is the Andamans' highest point. You can trek through subtropical forest to the top and back from Kalipur in about six to seven hours; the views across the archipelago are incredible. It’s a demanding trek, so bring plenty of water (around 4L). A permit (₹250) is required from the Forest Office at the trailhead, open 6am to 2pm.
A local guide (300₹) will make sure you don’t get lost, but otherwise follow the red arrows marked on the trees.
Craggy IslandSNORKELLING
A small island off Kalipur, Craggy is a good spot for snorkelling. Strong swimmers can make it across (flippers recommended), otherwise a motorised boat is available (₹3000 return).
Excelsior IslandSNORKELLING
Excelsior has beautiful beaches, snorkelling plus resident spotted deer. Permits are required (₹500); boats cost ₹4500 and fit seven people.
DON'T MISS
TURTLE NESTING IN KALIPUR
Reputedly the only beach in the world where leatherback, hawksbill, olive ridley marine and green turtles all nest along the same coastline, Kalipur is a fantastic place to observe this evening show from mid-December to April. Turtles can be witnessed most nights, and you may be able to assist with collecting eggs, or with the release of hatchlings. Contact Pristine Beach Resort for more information.
4Sleeping & Eating
oPristine Beach
ResortGUESTHOUSE$$$
(%9474286787; www.andamanpristineresorts.com;
Kalipur Beach; hut ₹1500, r
₹3500-4500; ai)
Huddled among the palms between paddy fields and the beach, this relaxing resort has simple bamboo huts as well as more upmarket rooms. Its restaurant-bar serves delicious fish Nicobari.
SionINDIAN$
(Kalipur
Beach; mains ₹60-150; h10am-10pm)
This rooftop restaurant gets the thumbs up for its seafood dishes.
8Getting There & Away
Diglipur, located about 80km north of Mayabunder, is served by daily buses to Port Blair (₹265, 12 hours) at 5am and 7am, plus a 10.40pm night bus. There are also buses to Mayabunder (₹55, 2½ hours) and Rangat (₹100, 4½ hours).
Ferries to Port Blair (seat/bunk ₹110/350, nine hours) depart three times a week (Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday).
8Getting Around
Ferries and some buses arrive at Aerial Bay, from where it’s 11km to Diglipur, and 8km to Kalipur in the other direction.
Buses run the 18km journey from Diglipur to Kalipur (₹15, 30 minutes) every 45 minutes; an autorickshaw costs ₹200.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
MAYABUNDER & AROUND
In ‘upper’ Middle Andaman, Mayabunder is best known for its villages inhabited by Karen, members of a Burmese hill tribe who were relocated here during the British colonial period. It’s a low-key destination, away from the crowds.
You can go on a range of day tours, with the highlight being jungle trekking at creepy Interview Island (boat hire ₹3000, fits six people), inhabited by a population of around 35 wild elephants, released after a logging company closed for business in the 1950s. Armed guards accompany you in case of elephant encounters. A permit (₹500) is required, which is best organised by emailing a copy of your arrival permit to Sea’n’Sand guesthouse. Other trips include turtle nesting at Dhaninallah Mangrove (December to March); Forty One Caves, where hawabills (swiftlets) make their highly prized edible nests; and snorkelling off Avis Island (boat hire ₹1500).
Sea'n'Sand (%03192-273454; titusinseansand@yahoo.com;
r from ₹850; a) is
easily the best place to stay. Hosts Titus and Elizabeth (and their
extended Karen family) are an excellent source for everything
Mayabunder, and the food here is a treat.
Mayabunder, 71km north of Rangat (₹75, two hours), is linked by daily buses from Port Blair (₹200, 10 hours) and Diglipur (₹60, two hours) and by thrice-weekly ferries.
Little Andaman
As far south as you can go in the islands, Little Andaman has an appealing end-of-the-world feel. It’s a gorgeous fist of mangroves, jungle and teal, ringed by beaches as fresh as bread out of the oven. It rates highly as many travellers' favourite spot in the Andamans.
Badly hit by the 2004 tsunami, Little Andaman has slowly rebuilt itself. Located about 120km south of Port Blair, the main settlement here is Hut Bay, a pleasant small town.
1Sights & Activities
Little Andaman LighthouseLIGHTHOUSE
Located 14km east of Hut Bay, Little Andaman lighthouse makes for a worthwhile excursion. Standing 41m high, 200 steps spiral up to magnificent views over the coastline and forest. The easiest way to get here is by motorcycle. Otherwise take a sweaty bicycle journey or autorickshaw until the road becomes unpassable; from there, walk for an hour along the blissful stretch of deserted beach.
Beaches
Come prepared for sandflies; crocodiles also lurk about (seek local advice as to where crocs may be currently congregating).
Netaji NagarBEACH
The sprawling and rugged Netaji Nagar, stretching 8km to 12km north of Hut Bay, is the beach where most accommodation is located.
Butler BayBEACH
(₹20)
Little Andaman’s best beach is Butler Bay, a spectacular curved beach with lifeguards and good surf. It's located at the 14km mark.
KalapatharBEACH
Located before Butler Bay is Kalapathar lagoon, a popular enclosed swimming area with shady patches of sand. Look for the cave in the cliff face that you can scramble through for stunning ocean views. It’s accessed via a side road that runs past modern housing constructed after the 2004 tsunami.
Surfing
Intrepid surfing travellers have been whispering about Little Andaman since it first opened to foreigners some years back. The reef breaks are legendary, but best suited for more experienced surfers. The most accessible is Jarawa Point, a left reef break at the northern point of Butler Bay. Beginners should stick to beach breaks along Km8 to Km11. February to April generally bring the best waves.
Surfing Little AndamanSURFING
(%9531877287; www.surfinglittleandaman.com;
Hut Bay; 2hr lesson
₹1000)
Here you can hire boards, arrange lessons and get the lowdown on everything about surfing in Little Andaman.
Waterfalls
Inland, the White Surf and Whisper Wave waterfalls offer a jungle experience for when you’re done lazing on the beach. The latter involves a 4km forest trek and a guide is highly recommended. They are pleasant falls and you may be tempted to swim in the rock pools, but beware of crocodiles.
4Sleeping & Eating
There are cheap and tasty thali places in Hut Bay.
Blue ViewBUNGALOW$
(%9734480840; Km11.5,
Netaji Nagar;
r without bathroom from
₹300; hOct-May)
With its relaxing atmosphere, Blue View’s simple thatched bungalows are popular mainly for the warm hospitality of its hosts. Surfboards, bicycles and motorbikes can be hired.
Aastha Eco ResortBUNGALOW$
(Km10, Netaji Nagar; r ₹600)
Set among betel and coconut palms, Aastha is a calm choice with its atmospheric Nicobari huts and thatched cottages.
Hawva Beach ResortBUNGALOW$
(%9775181290; Km8, Netaji
Nagar; r from ₹400)
This laid-back family-run lodging has just a handful of simple cottages. Flavoursome home-cooked food is available.
Palm GrooveINDIAN$
(Hut
Bay; mains ₹60-140; h7am-9pm)
Set in a heritage-style bungalow, with an outdoor garden gazebo, Palm Grove dishes up a selection of tasty biriyanis and curries.
8Information
There’s an ATM in Hut Bay and village at 16Km.
8Getting There & Away
Ferries land at Hut Bay Jetty. Buses (₹10, depart hourly) to Netaji Nagar usually coincide with ferry arrivals, but often leave before you clear immigration, leaving more pricey jeeps (per person ₹100) as the other option. An autorickshaw from the jetty to Netaji Nagar is around ₹250, or ₹80 to town. Motorbikes and bicycles are popular for getting around, and are available from most lodges; otherwise, shared jeeps (₹25) and buses are very handy.
Boats sail to Port Blair daily, alternating between afternoon and evening departures on vessels ranging from big ferries with four-/two-bed rooms (₹240/330, six to 8½ hours) to faster 5½-hour government boats (₹35); all have air-con. The ferry office is closed Sunday.