Around Bengaluru
Hesaraghatta
%080 / Pop 9200
Located 30km northwest of Bengaluru, the small town of Hesaraghatta is home to Nrityagram, a leading dance academy.
1Sights
NrityagramARTS CENTRE
(%080-28466313; www.nrityagram.org; self-guided tour ₹50, children under 12 free; h10am-2pm Tue-Sun)
This leading dance academy was established in 1990 to revive and popularise Indian classical dance. The brainchild and living legacy of celebrated dancer Protima Gauri Bedi (1948–98), the complex was designed like a village by Goa-based architect Gerard da Cunha. Long-term courses in classical dance are offered here to deserving students, while local children are taught for free on Sundays. Check their website for upcoming performances (₹1000 per person).
You can also book a tour package that includes a guided tour, lecture, dance demonstration and vegetarian meal (per person ₹1500 to ₹2000, minimum 10 people, advance booking required).
4Sleeping
Taj KuteeramHOTEL$$$
(%080-28466326; www.tajhotels.com; d from ₹4660; aiW)
Opposite Nrityagram dance village, Kuteeram isn’t as luxurious as other Taj Group hotel offerings, but it’s still atmospheric with a balance of comfort and rustic charm, and designs by Gerard da Cunha. It also offers ayurveda and yoga sessions.
8Getting There & Away
From Bengaluru’s City Market, buses 266, 253 and 253E run to Hesaraghatta (₹26, one hour), with bus 266 continuing on to Nrityagram. From Hesaraghatta an autorickshaw will cost ₹75 to Nrityagram.
WORTH A TRIP
WHISKY & WINE
In a country not known for being a big exponent of fine wines and liquors (anyone who has stepped foot into one of India’s ubiquitous ‘wine shops’ can attest to this), Bengaluru is very much an exception to the rule. It’s a city that’s not only gained a thirst for craft beer, but has on its doorstep one of India’s premier wine-growing regions in Nandi Hills (per person ₹10, car ₹150; h6am-6pm). While an emerging industry, it’s fast gaining a reputation internationally with some 18 wineries in the area. Also a few clicks out of town is India’s first single-malt whisky distillery, which allows tastings.
Grover Wineries ( GOOGLE MAP ; %080-27622826; www.groverzampa.in; 1½ hr tour Mon-Fri ₹850, Sat & Sun ₹1000) At an altitude of at 920m this winery produces quality white and red varietals. Tours include tastings of five wines in the cellar rooms accompanied by cheese and crackers, followed by lunch. From February to May you’ll also see grape crushing and can visit its vineyards. It’s located on the approach to Nandi Hills, around 40km north of Bengaluru.
Amrut ( GOOGLE MAP ; %080-23100402; www.amrutdistilleries.com; Mysuru Rd) Established in 1948, Amrut, India’s first producer of single malt whisky, offers free distillery tours run by knowledgeable guides. You get taken through the entire process before tasting its world-class single malts and blends. It’s 20km outside Bengaluru on the road to Mysuru; prebookings essential.
Janapada Loka Folk Arts Museum
Janapada Loka Folk Arts MuseumMUSEUM
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.jaanapadaloka.org; Bengaluru-Mysuru Rd; Indian/foreigner ₹20/100; h9am-5.30pm Wed-Mon)
A worthwhile stopover between Bengaluru and Mysuru, this museum is dedicated to the preservation of rural local culture. It has a wonderful collection of folk-art objects, including 500-year-old shadow puppets, festival costumes, musical instruments, a superb temple chariot and a replica of a traditional village. There's also a children's playground. It’s situated 53km south of Bengaluru, 3km from Ramnagar; any Mysuru–Bengaluru bus can drop you here.
Mysuru (Mysore)
%0821 / Pop 912,000 / Elev 707m
The historic settlement of Mysuru (which changed its name from Mysore in 2014) is one of South India's most enchanting cities, famed for its glittering royal heritage and magnificent monuments and buildings. Its World Heritage–listed palace brings most travellers here, but Mysuru is also rich in tradition with a deeply atmospheric bazaar district littered with spice stores and incense stalls. Ashtanga yoga is another drawcard and there are several acclaimed schools which attract visitors from across the globe.
History
Mysuru owes its name to the mythical Mahisuru, a place where the demon Mahisasura was slain by the goddess Chamundi. Its regal history began in 1399, when the Wodeyar dynasty of Mysuru was founded, though they remained in service of the Vijayanagar empire until the mid-16th century. With the fall of Vijayanagar in 1565, the Wodeyars declared their sovereignty, which – save for a brief period of Hyder Ali and Tipu Sultan’s supremacy in the late 18th century – remained unscathed until Independence in 1947.
Mysuru (Mysore)
1Top Sights
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
6Drinking & Nightlife
8Information
1Sights
Mysuru isn’t known as the City of Palaces for nothing, being home to a total of seven and an abundance of majestic heritage architecture dating from the Wodeyar dynasty and British rule. The majority of grand buildings are owned by the state, and used as anything from hospitals, colleges and government buildings to heritage hotels. Visit www.karnatakatourism.org/Mysore/en for a list of notable buildings.
oMysuru PalacePALACE
(Maharaja’s Palace; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.mysorepalace.gov.in; Purandara Dasa Rd; Indian/foreigner/child under 10 incl audio guide ₹40/200/free; h10am-5.30pm)
Among the grandest of India’s royal buildings, this was the seat of the Wodeyar maharajas. The original palace was gutted by fire in 1897; the one you see today was completed in 1912 by English architect Henry Irwin for ₹4.5 million. The lavish Indo-Saracenic interior – a kaleidoscope of stained glass, mirrors and gaudy colours – is undoubtedly over the top. It's further embellished by carved wooden doors, mosaic floors and a series of paintings depicting life here during the Edwardian Raj era.
The way into the palace takes you past a fine collection of sculptures and artefacts. Don’t forget to check out the armoury, with an intriguing collection of 700-plus weapons.
Every Sunday and national holiday, from 7pm to 7.30pm, the palace is illuminated by nearly 100,000 light bulbs that accent its majestic profile against the night.
Entrance to the palace grounds is at the South Gate ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Purandara Dasa Rd). While you are allowed to snap the palace’s exterior, photography within is strictly prohibited.
Devaraja MarketMARKET
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Sayyaji Rao Rd; h6am-8.30pm)
Dating from Tipu Sultan’s reign, this lively bazaar has local traders selling traditional items such as flower garlands, spices and conical piles of kumkum (coloured powder used for bindi dots), all of which makes for some great photo ops. Refresh your bargaining skills before shopping.
Jaganmohan PalacePALACE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jaganmohan Palace Rd; adult/child ₹120/30; h8.30am-5pm)
Built in 1861 as the royal auditorium, this stunning palace just west of the Mysuru Palace now houses the Jayachamarajendra Art Gallery. Set over three floors it has a huge collection of Indian paintings, including works by noted artist Raja Ravi Varma, traditional Japanese art and some rare musical instruments. However, presentation is poor and the building is sadly neglected.
Rail MuseumMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; KRS Rd; adult/child ₹15/10, camera/video ₹20/30; h9.30am-6pm)
This open-air museum’s main exhibit is the Mysuru maharani’s saloon, a wood-panelled beauty dating from 1899 that provides an insight into the stylish way in which the royals once rode the railways. There are also steam engines, locomotives and carriages to investigate. A toy train (₹10) rides the track around the museum.
Jayalakshmi Vilas Mansion Museum ComplexMUSEUM
( GOOGLE MAP ; Mysore University Campus; h10am-1pm & 3-5pm Tue-Sun)F
On the university campus west of town, this museum specialises in folklore, with artefacts, stone tablets and sculptures, including rural costumes and a wooden puppet of the 10-headed demon king Ravana. The building itself (restored in 2006) was originally built as a mansion for Princess Jayalakshmi Ammani, the eldest daughter of the Maharaja Chamaraja Wodeyar.
Chamundi HillVIEWPOINT
( GOOGLE MAP )
This 1062m hill is crowned with the Sri Chamundeswari Temple ( GOOGLE MAP ; http://chamundeshwaritemple.kar.nic.in; h7am-2pm, 3.30-6pm & 7.30-9pm). It’s a fine half-day excursion, offering spectacular views of the city below. Queues are long at weekends, so visit during the week. From Central bus stand take bus 201 (₹28; AC); a return autorickshaw/Uber trip is around ₹450/700.
Alternatively, you can take the foot trail comprising 1000-plus steps that Hindu pilgrims use to visit the temple. One-third of the way down is a 5m-high statue of Nandi (Shiva’s bull) that was carved out of solid rock in 1659.
Mysuru ZooZOO
( GOOGLE MAP ; http://mysorezoo.info; Indiranagar; adult/child Mon-Fri ₹50/20, Sat & Sun ₹60/30, camera ₹20; h8.30am-5.30pm Wed-Mon)
A well-managed zoo set in pretty gardens. Highlights include white tigers, lowland gorillas, giraffes and rhinos. It’s situated around 2km southeast of Mysuru Palace.
MYSURU (MYSORE) COLONIAL-ERA ARCHITECTURE
Mysuru's colonial heritage is considerable, with numerous grand edifices and quirky reminders to investigate. Dating from 1805, Government House ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Irwin Rd), formerly the British Residency, is a Tuscan Doric building set in 20 hectares of gardens. Facing the north gate of Mysuru Palace is the 1927 Silver Jubilee Clock Tower (Dodda Gadiara; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ashoka Rd). The beauty of towering St Philomena’s Cathedral ( GOOGLE MAP ; St Philomena St; h8am-5pm), built between 1933 and 1941 in neo-Gothic style, is emphasised by wonderful stained-glass windows. Wellington Lodge is an unassuming early colonial landmark which today houses a museum: Indira Gandhi Rashtriya Manav Sangrahalaya (National Museum of Mankind; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.igrms.com; Wellington Lodge, Irwin Rd; h10am-5.30pm Tue-Sun).
2Activities
Emerge SpaAYURVEDA, MASSAGE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0821-2522500; www.thewindflower.com; Windflower Spa & Resort, Maharanapratap Rd, Nazarbad; massages from ₹2275; h7am-9pm)
Wonderful resort spa offering over 30 ayurvedic treatments including hot-stone massages and pampering rituals. Day packages include access to the hotel pool. It’s located 3km southeast of Mysuru Palace; rates include pick-up and drop-off.
Indus Valley Ayurvedic CentreAYURVEDA
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0821-2473263; www.ayurindus.com; Lalithadripura)
Set on 10 hectares of gardens, this classy centre derives its therapies from ancient scriptures and prescriptions. The overnight package (single/double including full board from US$180/310) includes one session each of ayurveda, yoga and beauty therapy.
MYSURU (MYSORE) ASHTANGA YOGA
What Rishikesh is to North India, Mysuru is to the South. This world-famous centre for yoga attracts thousands of international students each year to learn, practise or become certified in teaching Ashtanga. There are now over 20 established yoga schools in the city.
For the most part students are required to be austerely committed to the art, and will need at least a month. While in more recent times there’s been a growing trend for drop-in classes or week-long courses, long-term students will need to register far in advance, as courses are often booked out.
Most foreign yoga students congregate in the upmarket residential suburb of Gokulam. Several schools now offer accommodation – check Facebook groups Ashtanga Community in Mysore and Mysore Yoga Community Group for accommodation rentals.
Yogis in India no longer need a special student visa or need to register with the police.
Yoga Centres
Ashtanga Yoga Research Institute (AYRI; GOOGLE MAP ; %9880185500; www.kpjayi.org; 235 8th Cross, 3rd Stage, Gokulam; 1st/2nd month plus taxes ₹34,700/23,300) Founded by the renowned ashtanga teacher K Pattabhi Jois, who taught Madonna her yoga moves. He has since passed away and the reins have been handed over to his grandson, who is proving very popular. You need to register two months in advance.
IndeaYoga (Ānanda Yoga India; GOOGLE MAP ; %0821-2416779; www.indeayoga.com; 144E 7th Main Rd, Gokulam; incl food and lodging US$1999) Offering hatha and ashtanga yoga with guru Bharath Shetty (who practised under the late BKS Iyengar) and his wife Archana. Courses include anatomy and yoga philosophy. Drop-in classes and student accommodation are also offered.
Mystic School ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0821-4288490; www.mysoreyoga.in; 100 3rd A Main Rd, Gokulam; drop-in/one-month yoga classes ₹500/17,000) Well-established school with a diverse program covering hatha and ashtanga, meditation and lectures. Suitable for short- and long-term students at all levels, and has drop-in classes. Reiki and massage courses are also offered. There's accommodation (studios with kitchenettes), sauna, plunge pool and cafe.
Atmavikasa Centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0821-2341978; www.atmavikasayoga.com; 18 Rd, 6th Cross, Ramakrishnanagar) Classical hatha yoga school set up by Acharya Venkatesh and Acharye Hema offering training, therapy and workshops. Enjoys a garden setting in a peaceful suburb 5km southwest of the palace.
Yogadarshanam ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0821-2412143; http://yogadarshanam.org; 77/A, 4th Main Rd, 3rd Stage; courses ₹6000-29,600) Classical Indian yoga centre offering classes, teacher training, workshops and retreats. Their one-month foundation course covers the yoga fundamentals and is perfect for beginners.
Yoga Bharata ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0821-4242342; www.yogabharata.com; 1st Fl, 810 Contour Rd; 20-class pass ₹4500) Professional centre offering ashtanga, vinyasa, hatha and yoga therapy with experienced teachers. Linked to IndeaYoga. Drop-in classes (₹300) are available.
CCourses
Shruthi Musical WorksMUSIC
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9845249518; 1189 3rd Cross, Irwin Rd; per hr ₹400; h10.30am-9pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun)
Music teacher Jayashankar gets good reviews for his tabla (drum) instruction.
TTours
oRoyal Mysore WalksWALKING, TOURS
(%9632044188; www.royalmysorewalks.com; from ₹500)
An excellent way to familiarise yourself with Mysuru’s epic history and heritage. Offers a range of weekend walks (themes include royal history and food) as well as cycle and jeep tours.
KSTDC Transport OfficeBUS
(%080-43344334; www.kstdc.co; city tour ₹210)
KSTDC runs a daily Mysuru city tour, taking in city sights (excluding the palace), Chamundi Hill, Srirangapatna and Brindavan Gardens. It starts daily at 8.30am, ends at 8.30pm and is likely to leave you breathless! Other tours go to Belur, Halebid and Sravanabelagola (₹550) on Tuesday and Thursday from 7.30am to 9pm.
All tours leave from the KSTDC transport office next to Hotel Mayura Hoysala, from where bookings are made, or at travel agencies around town.
DUSSEHRA
Mysuru is at its carnivalesque best during the 10-day Dussehra (Dasara; hSep/Oct) festival held in September or October. During this time the Mysuru Palace is dramatically lit up every evening, while the town is transformed into a gigantic fairground, with concerts, dance performances, sporting demonstrations and cultural events running to packed houses.
On the last day the celebrations are capped off in grand style. A dazzling procession of richly costumed elephants, garlanded idols, liveried retainers and cavalry march through the streets to the rhythms of clanging brass bands.
Mysuru is chock-a-block with tourists during the festival, especially on the final day. To bypass suffocating crowds, consider buying a Dasara VIP Gold Card (₹7500 for two adults). Only 1000 are available, and though expensive, it assures you good seats at the final day gala and helps you beat the entry queues at other events, while providing discounts on accommodation, dining and shopping. It’s also possible to buy tickets (₹250 to ₹1000) just for entering the palace and Bannimantap for the final day’s parades.
4Sleeping
Mysuru attracts tourists throughout the year and can fill up very quickly during Dussehra. Booking early is recommended.
oMansion 1907HOSTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9886523472; www.facebook.com/themansion1907; 36 Shalivahana Rd; dm with fan/AC ₹500/600, r from ₹1400; aW)
Deservedly popular hostel in a historic house that shows Indian and British architectural influences. It's very well set up, with spacious dorms and private rooms, cool communal areas, good bathrooms, a kitchen and speedy wi-fi. And it's a great place to meet other travellers and plan your next journey.
SonderHOSTEL$
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.sonderhostel.com; 66, 3rd Block, Jayalaxmipuram; dm incl breakfast ₹500; aW)
Backpackers hostel located about 3km from the centre in a tranquil, leafy suburb not far from many yoga schools. It's a well-designed space with comfy dorms, lockers, board games and books, a kitchen and a friendly vibe. There are regular events like movie nights and cooking classes.
Hotel MauryaHOTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0821-2426677; 9/5 Hanumantha Rao St; s/d from ₹195/350; aW)
Very centrally located, the Maurya is a good budget choice with a wide range of large, unremarkable but very cheap rooms. It offers more upmarket choices with TV and AC too. The manager and his staff are extremely helpful and welcoming.
Anokhi Garden Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0821-4288923; www.anokhigarden.com; 408 Contour Rd, 3rd Stage, Gokulam; s/d from ₹2200/3200; W)
Very popular with yoga students and young travellers, this homely French-run guesthouse offers neat, tidy rooms in a property which also boasts a lovely garden cafe.
Parklane HotelHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0821-4003500; www.parklanemysore.com; 2720 Harsha Rd; r ₹1755-3267; aiWs)
The Parklane is very well located for the palace and city and represents fine value. Decor is over-the-top kitsch but it’s hard to dislike with its massive and immaculate rooms, ultracomfortable and thoughtfully outfitted with mobile-chargers and considerate toiletry kits. Its lively open-air restaurant is always buzzing, and there's a small rooftop pool too.
Mystic School StudiosHOTEL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0821-4288490; www.mysoreyoga.in; 100 3rd Main Rd, Gokulam; r with/without kitchen per month ₹25,000/15,000; aWs)
This yoga school offers squeaky-clean rooms with private bathrooms and studios with kitchenettes and balconies. There's a great cafe, Finnish sauna, plunge pool and rooftop chill-out zone.
Urban OasisHOTEL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0821-4006332; www.urbanoasis.co.in; 7 Contour Rd, 3rd Stage, Gokulam; r ₹1200-2000, monthly from ₹30,000; aW)
More of a business hotel, but popular with yoga students for its clean, functional and modern rooms with cable TV. There are four price categories from compact single to spacious rooms with balconies and AC.
Hotel Mayura HoysalaHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0821-2426160; www.karnatakaholidays.net; 2 Jhansi Lakshmi Bai Rd; r incl breakfast with fan/AC from ₹1550/2900; aW)
Near the train station, the potential of this beautiful historic building remains unrealised. Yes, this government-owned hotel is a timewarp, but is still worthy of consideration as rooms certainly have lashings of character, and rates are reasonable. The bar here is popular with Mysuru’s tipplers.
oGrand Mercure MysoreHOTEL$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0821-4021212; www.accorhotels.com; Nelson Mandela Circle, New Sayyaji Rao Rd; r from ₹4940; aiWs)
With its lovely rooftop swimming pool, gym and choice of restaurants the Mercure adds up to excellent choice. Staff are super attentive and rooms are sleek, well-equipped and have a wide selection of international TV channels. Located 4km north of the city centre.
Royal Orchid MetropoleHERITAGE HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0821-4255566; www.royalorchidhotels.com; 5 Jhansi Lakshmi Bai Rd; s/d incl breakfast from ₹6880/7250; aWs)
Originally built by the Wodeyars to serve as the residence of the maharaja’s British guests, this is undoubtedly one of Mysuru’s leading heritage hotels. The charming colonial-era structure has 30 rooms oozing historical character, just with all mod cons. There's a fitness centre and lovely outdoor pool area.
Green HotelGUESTHOUSE$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0821-4255000; www.greenhotelindia.com; 2270 Vinoba Rd, Jayalakshmipuram; s/d incl breakfast from ₹3880/4480; W)S
The historic Green Hotel was originally built as a palace in the 1920s by the maharajah for his daughters. Today it's a heritage hotel set among charming gardens. Commendably, all 31 rooms run on solar power and have plenty of character, though maintenance could be a little better and some fixtures are looking a tad tired. There's a good cafe ( GOOGLE MAP ; Green Hotel; cakes from ₹40, snacks from ₹70; h10am-7pm; W), restaurant and travel agent here.
Profits are distributed to charity and environmental projects across India.
5Eating
oVinayaka MylariSOUTH INDIAN$
( GOOGLE MAP ; 769 Nazarbad Main Rd; dosas ₹30-50; h6.30-1.30pm & 3-8.30pm)
This no-nonsense place is one of the best eateries in town to try South Indian classics of masala dosa (large South Indian savoury crêpe stuffed with spiced potatoes), which are beautifully light and fluffy and idlis. Locals eat them with coconut chutney and a coffee.
Depth 'n' GreenVEGETARIAN$
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/depthngreen; 228/3, 1st Main Rd, Gokulam; dishes ₹80-170; h10.30am-10.30pm; W)
Wildly popular with local yogis, this buzzing healthy cafe offers a menu of satisfying Indian and Western dishes, including great salads, served up on tree trunk tables. Their green smoothies and lassis and other drink concoctions (beet and ginger lemonade) are also superb.
Hotel RRRSOUTH INDIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Gandhi Sq; mains ₹90-135; hnoon-4pm & 6-11pm)
Classic Andhra-style food is ladled out at this ever-busy eatery, and you may have to queue for a table during lunch. Try their famous chicken or mutton biryanis (served on a banana leaf).
Cafe AramaneSOUTH INDIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Sayyaji Rao Rd; mains ₹90-110; h8am-10pm)S
In a character-filled heritage building, this typically busy South Indian eatery rolls out steaming breakfast platters for Mysuru’s office-goers, thalis for lunch (from ₹80) and welcomes them back in the evenings with aromatic filter coffee and a convoy of delicious snacks. There are speciality dosas each day of the week.
Parklane HotelMULTICUISINE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Parklane Hotel, 2720 Harsha Rd; mains ₹100-160; W)
Mysuru’s most social restaurant with outdoor tables, lit up moodily by countless lanterns, and there's often live traditional music. The menu does delicious regional dishes from across India as well as Chinese and continental options and cold beers.
Anu’s Bamboo HutHEALTH FOOD$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %9900909428; www.facebook.com/CafeinGokulam; 367, 2nd Main, 3rd Stage, Gokulam; lunch buffet ₹250; h1-3pm & 5-7pm Mon-Sat; W)
Rooftop shack cafe catering mainly to yoga students with healthy vegetarian lunch buffets (from 1pm) and evening smoothies. Chef-owner Anu is a great source of info and offers cooking classes (₹700, lunch included).
Tiger TrailINDIAN$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0821-4255566; Royal Orchid Metropole, 5 Jhansi Lakshmi Bai Rd; mains ₹200-650; h7.30-10am, 12.30-3.30pm & 7.30-11pm; W)
This sophisticated hotel restaurant works up delectable Indian cuisine in a courtyard that twinkles with fairy lights at night. The North Indian dishes are particularly good; try a Lucknow chicken korma (₹300). Also has a fine lunch buffet.
Old HouseITALIAN$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0821-2333255; 451 Jhansi Rani Lakshmi Bai Rd; mains ₹175-399; h7.30am-9.45pm; W)
Classy Italian with delightful terrace for tasty salads, pasta and risotto and pizzas (baked in a wood-fired oven). They serve a full range of mocktails and coffees but no alcohol.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Pelican PubPUB
( GOOGLE MAP ; Hunsur Rd; mains ₹100-190; h11am-11pm)
A venerable, still-popular watering hole located on the fringes of upmarket Gokulam. Serves draught beer and food (try the chilli pork) at bargain basement rates in the indoor classic pub or alfresco-style garden setting out back. There’s live music some nights.
Infinit DooraBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Hotel Roopa, 2724/C, Bangalore Nilgiris Rd; hnoon-11pm; W)
The nearest thing to a lounge in Mysuru, this rooftop bar has a classy ambience and comprehensive drinks selection, smoking and nonsmoking zones and fine city views.
7Shopping
Mysuru is a great place to shop for sandalwood products, silk saris and wooden toys. It is also one of India’s major incense-manufacturing centres.
Look for the butterfly-esque ‘Silk Mark’ on your purchase; it’s an endorsement for quality silk.
The bazaar area around the Devaraja Market is a real highlight for those in search of spices (and photographs).
Government Silk Weaving FactoryCLOTHING
( GOOGLE MAP ; %8025586550; www.ksicsilk.com; Mananthody Rd, Ashokapuram; h8.30am-4pm Mon-Sat, outlet 10.30am-7pm daily)
Given that Mysuru’s prized silk is made under its very sheds, this government-run outlet, set up in 1912, is the best and cheapest place to shop for the exclusive textile. Behind the showroom is the factory, where you can drop by to see how the fabric is made. It’s around 2km south of town.
Sumangali SilksCLOTHING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; off Gandhi Sq; h10.30am-8.30pm)
Exceptionally popular with Indian ladies, this multilevel store is another option to pick up a silk sari, with quality of varying degrees depending on how much you want to spend.
Sandalwood Oil FactoryGIFTS & SOUVENIRS
( GOOGLE MAP ; Mananthody Rd, Ashokapuram; houtlet 9.30am-6.30pm, factory closed Sun)
A quality-assured place for sandalwood products including incense, soap, cosmetics and the prohibitively expensive pure sandalwood oil (if in stock). Guided tours are available to show you around the factory.
Sri Sharada Grand Musical WorksMUSIC
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2006 Seebaiah Rd)
Sells a variety of traditional musical instruments including tabla (drum) sets and assorted percussion instruments.
8Information
Medical Services
Government HospitalHOSPITAL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0821-4269806; Dhanvanthri Rd)
Centrally located and has a 24-hour pharmacy.
Left Luggage
The city bus stand's left-luggage cloakroom is open from 6am to 11pm and costs ₹15 per bag for 12 hours.
Tourist Information
Karnataka TourismTOURIST INFORMATION
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0821-2422096; www.karnatakatourism.org; 1st fl, Hotel Mayura Hoysala, 2 Jhansi Lakshmi Bai Rd; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat)
Helpful and has plenty of brochures.
KSTDC Transport OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0821-2423652; www.karnatakaholidays.net; Yatri Navas Bldg, 2 Jhansi Lakshmi Bai Rd; h8.30am-8.30pm)
Main office which offers general tourist information and provides a useful map.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Mysuru's airport was not operating at research time, but flights may resume.
Bus
The central bus stand ( GOOGLE MAP ; Bengaluru-Nilgiri Rd) handles all KSRTC long-distance buses.
The city bus stand ( GOOGLE MAP ; Sayyaji Rao Rd) is for city, Srirangapatna and Chamundi Hill buses.
The private bus stand ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Sayyaji Rao Rd) serves Hubballi (Hubli), Vijapura (Bijapur), Mangaluru, Ooty (Udhagamandalam) and Ernakulam. You’ll find several ticketing agents around the stand.
Buses from Mysuru (Mysore)
Destination | Fare (₹) | Duration (hr) | Departures |
---|---|---|---|
Bandipur | 77 (O) | 2 | 11 daily via Ooty |
Bengaluru | 123 (O)/209 (R)/299 (V) | 2-3 | every 30min |
Bengaluru Airport | 739 (V) | 3½-4 | 12 daily |
Channarayapatna | 83 (O)/160 (V) | 2 | hourly |
Chennai | 632 (R)/1026 (V) | 9-11 | 6 daily from 4.30pm |
Ernakulam | 739 (V) | 8-9 | 3 daily from 6pm |
Gokarna | 478 (O) | 12 | 1 daily |
Hassan | 112 (O) | 3 | hourly |
Hosapete (Hospet) | 381 (O)/608 (R) | 9-12 | 7 daily |
Mangaluru | 245 (O)/390 (R)/502 (V) | 6-7 | hourly |
Ooty | 131 (O)/193 (R)/529 (V) | 4-5 | 12 daily |
Fares: (O) Ordinary, (R) Rajahamsa Semideluxe, (V) Airavath AC Volvo
Train
Train tickets can be bought from Mysuru’s railway reservation office ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %131; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun).
Trains from Mysuru (Mysore)
Destination | Train No & Name | Fare (₹) | Duration (hr) | Departures |
---|---|---|---|---|
Bengaluru | 16518 Bengaluru Exp | 2AC/3AC 695/490 | 3 | 5.30am |
Bengaluru | 12613 Tippu Exp | 2nd class/AC chair 90/305 | 2½ | 11.15am |
Bengaluru | 12008 Shatabdi Exp | AC chair/AC executive chair 305/770 | 2 | 2.15pm daily except Wed |
Chennai | 12008 Shatabdi Exp | AC chair/AC executive chair 1280/1845 | 7 | 2.15pm daily Thu-Tue |
Hosapete (for Hampi) | 16592 Hampi Exp | 3AC/2AC sleeper 840/1205 | 12 | 7pm |
Hubballi | 17301 Mysore Dharwad Exp | sleeper/2AC 275/1065 | 9½ | 10.30pm |
8Getting Around
Uber and Ola cabs are everywhere in Mysuru. Agencies at hotels can organise drivers for around ₹1800 per day in town, or from ₹2500 per day for out of town trips.
Count on around ₹1000 for a day’s sightseeing in an autorickshaw.
Around Mysuru
Consider one of KSTDC’s tours for visiting sights around Mysuru.
Srirangapatna (Srirangapatnam)
%08236 / Pop 26,300
Steeped in bloody history, the fort town of Srirangapatna, 16km from Mysuru, is built on an island straddling the Cauvery River. The seat of Hyder Ali and Tipu Sultan’s power, this town was the de facto capital of much of southern India during the 18th century. The ramparts, battlements and some of the gates of the fort still stand, as do a clutch of monuments.
1Sights
Daria Daulat BaghPALACE
(Summer Palace; GOOGLE MAP ; Indian/foreigner ₹20/100; h9am-5pm)
Set within lovely manicured grounds, Srirangapatna’s star attraction is Tipu’s summer palace, 1km east of the fort. Built from teak and rosewood, the lavish decoration that covers every inch of its interiors is impressive. The ceilings are embellished with floral designs, while the walls bear murals depicting courtly life and Tipu’s campaigns against the British. There’s a small museum within displaying artefacts and interesting paintings.
GumbazMAUSOLEUM
( GOOGLE MAP ; h8am-6.30pm)F
In a serene garden, the historically significant Persian-style Gumbaz is the resting place of the legendary Tipu Sultan, his equally famed father, Hyder Ali, and his wife. Most inscriptions are in Farsi. The interior of the onion-dome mausoleum is impressive and painted in a tiger-like motif as a tribute to the sultan.
Sri Ranganathaswamy TempleHINDU TEMPLE
( GOOGLE MAP ; h7.30am-1pm & 4-8pm)
Constructed in AD 894, this attractive Vaishnavite temple has a mix of Hoysala and Vijayanagar design. Within are cavernous walkways, pillars and the centrepiece 4.5m-long reclining statue of Ranganatha, a manifestation of Vishnu.
Jamia MasjidMOSQUE
( GOOGLE MAP )
This cream-coloured mosque with two minarets was built by the sultan in 1787 and features an interesting blend of Islamic and Hindu architecture. Climb the stairs at the back for panoramic views of the site.
Colonel Bailey’s DungeonHISTORIC SITE
( GOOGLE MAP )F
North of the island, on the banks of the Cauvery, is this well-preserved 18th-century white-walled dungeon used to hold British prisoners of war, including Colonel Bailey who died here in 1780. Jutting out from the walls are stone fixtures used to chain the naked prisoners, who were immersed in water up to their necks.
Ranganathittu Bird SanctuaryNATURE RESERVE
( GOOGLE MAP ; Indian/foreigner incl 15min boat ride ₹60/120, long lens camera/video ₹500; h8.30am-5.45pm)
The Ranganathittu Bird Sanctuary includes six islets and the banks of the Cauvery River. Storks, ibises, egrets, spoonbills and cormorants are best seen in the early morning or late afternoon on an extended boat ride (₹1000 per hour). There are also plenty of crocodiles around, which are quite easy to spot. You'll find a restaurant on-site.
4Sleeping & Eating
Mayura River ViewHOTEL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0823-6252114; www.kstdc.co/hotels; d with fan/AC from ₹2300/3300; a)
These government rooms and cottages are in pretty decent shape and have a fine location on a quiet patch of riverbank. Day trippers can pop in for lunch (mains ₹150 to ₹180) to gaze at the river while guzzling beer.
8Getting There & Away
Hourly buses (₹22 to ₹30, 45 minutes) depart from Mysuru’s City bus stand. Passenger trains travelling from Mysuru to Bengaluru also stop here. Bus 307 (₹18, 30 minutes) heading to Brindavan Gardens is just across from Srirangapatna’s main bus stand. A return autorickshaw from Mysuru is about ₹600, and a taxi around ₹1000.
8Getting Around
The sights are spread out, so hiring an autorickshaw (around ₹300 for three hours) is the best option for getting around.
Melukote (Melkote)
Life in the devout Hindu town of Melukote (also called Melkote), about 50km north of Mysuru, revolves around the atmospheric 12th-century Cheluvanarayana Temple (Raja St; h8am-1pm & 5-8pm), with its rose-coloured gopuram (gateway tower) and ornately carved pillars. Get a workout on the hike up to the hilltop Yoganarasimha Temple, which offers fine views of the surrounding hills.
Three KSRTC buses shuttle daily between Mysuru and Melukote (₹100, 1½ hours).
Somnathpur
The astonishingly beautiful Keshava Temple (Indian/foreigner ₹5/100; h8.30am-5.30pm) is one of the finest examples of Hoysala architecture, on par with the masterpieces of Belur and Halebid. Built in 1268 AD, this star-shaped temple, 33km from Mysuru, is adorned with superb stone sculptures depicting various scenes from the Ramayana, Mahabharata and Bhagavad Gita, and the life and times of the Hoysala kings.
Somnathpur is 12km south of Bannur and 10km north of Tirumakudal Narsipur. Take one of the half-hourly buses from Mysuru to either village (₹35, 30 minutes) and change there.
WORTH A TRIP
BILIGIRI RANGANNA TEMPLE WILDLIFE SANCTUARY
Much less known than Bandipur or Nagarhole, the Biligiri Ranganna Temple Wildlife Sanctuary in the BR Hills makes a great alternative to live out your Jungle Book fantasies. Set over 570 sq km, it was declared a tiger reserve in 2011 – but as with most parks, you'd be extremely lucky to spot one. Elephants, leopards, sloth bears and dholes (wild dogs) also roam the hills here.
The Kyathdevaraya Gudi Wilderness Camp ( GOOGLE MAP ; %080-40554055; www.junglelodges.com/kyathadevara-gudi-wilderness-camp; Yelandur; per person incl full board Indian/foreigner from ₹8036/9804) has a fantastic site among the peaceful forest, with grazing warthog and spotted deer. Accommodation (in tented cottages or delightful stilted log cabins) is pricey, but rates include all meals, a safari, guided walk and all taxes.
The wildlife sanctuary is a 4½-hour drive from Bengaluru. It's best to hire a vehicle, although it is theoretically possible to get there by public transport. You can catch a direct 7.45am bus from Mysuru to K Gudi, or a bus to Chamarajanagar and connect to a 1.30pm bus to K Gudi. From Chamarajanagar you can arrange a jeep for ₹700.
Bandipur National Park
%08229
Part of the Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve, Bandipur National Park ( GOOGLE MAP ; http://bandipurtigerreserve.in; Indian/foreigner ₹75/1000, video ₹1000; h6am-9.30am & 4-6pm) is one of South India’s most famous wilderness areas. Covering 880 sq km, it was once the Mysuru maharajas’ private wildlife reserve, and is now a protected zone for over 100 species of mammals, including tiger, elephant, leopard, gaur (Indian bison), chital (spotted deer), sambar, sloth bear, dhole (wild dog), mongoose and langur. It’s also home to an impressive 350 species of bird. It's only 80km south of Mysuru on the Ooty road.
2Activities
Only government-approved vehicles are permitted to run safaris within the park.
Bandipur Safari LodgeJEEP SAFARI
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08229-233001; www.junglelodges.com; 2hr safari per person ₹2700; h6am & 4pm)
Bandipur Safari Lodge has open-air 4WDs and minibuses, accompanied by knowledgeable guides.
Forest Department SafariSAFARI
(%08229-236043; directorbandipur@gmail.com; 1hr safari per person incl permit in bus/jeep/Gypsy ₹1200/2000/3000; hdepartures 6.30-8.30am & 3.30-5.30pm)
The forest department has rushed drives on buses (capacity 20) arranged at the park headquarters. It's worth paying extra for a jeep or 4WD. Avoid weekends when it gets very crowded.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hotel Bandipur PlazaHOTEL$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08229-233200; Ooty-Mysuru Hwy; r ₹1500; W)
Its highway location is a drawback, but this basic hotel's rooms are affordable and adequate in an otherwise pricey destination. It’s nearby to Bandipur Safari Lodge, so convenient for safaris into the park, and has a decent restaurant.
Forest Department BungalowsGUESTHOUSE$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08229-236051; www.bandipurtigerreserve.in; 9-/20-bed dm ₹720/1000, bungalow foreigner from ₹3000; W)
Basic lodging at the park HQ is convenient for location and atmosphere, but the downside is foreigners have to pay an additional ₹1000 per night for park entry fees. Dorms are rented out in the entirety, so you won’t need to share with strangers. You can book online.
Tiger RanchLODGE$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %8095408505; www.tigerranch.net; Mangala Village; per person incl full board ₹1510)
Offering a genuine wilderness experience, the very rustic Tiger Ranch has basic but attractive cottages, an atmospheric thatched-roof dining hall and fine home-cooked food. There's good walking in the surrounding forest, and a you're sure to encounter wildlife. Evenings can be enjoyed around a bonfire. It’s located 10km from the park; call ahead to arrange a pick-up (₹300).
oDhole’s DenLODGE$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %9444468376; www.dholesden.com; Kaniyanapura Village; camping/s/d incl full board from ₹3000/11,000/12,000; W)S
Flawlessly presented, Dhole’s Den offers contemporary design in lovely pastoral surrounds. Stylish, modernist rooms and bungalows are decked out with art and colourful fabrics, plus couches and deckchairs. It’s environmentally conscious with solar power, tank water and organic vegies. Camping is available for those on a budget. It’s a 20-minute drive from the park headquarters; rates include a guided nature walk.
SeraiRESORT, LODGE$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08229-236075; www.theserai.in; Kaniyanapura Village; r incl full board from ₹21,000; aWs)
Set in a coffee plantation that backs onto the national park, this luxurious resort has gorgeous Mediterranean-inspired villas (some with private pool) that are in harmony with the natural surrounds. Thatched-roof rooms feature elegant touches such as copper bathroom fixtures, stone-wall showers and wildlife photography on the walls. Its glassed-in restaurant and infinity pool both maximise outlooks to Nilgiri Hills.
MC ResortHOTEL$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %9019954162; www.mcresort.in; Bengaluru-Ooty Rd, Melukamanahally; s/d incl full board from ₹4000/5000; Ws)
Decent resort-style place with spacious, well-equipped rooms, a large swimming pool, kids' pool, a multicuisine restaurant and a convenient location near the park. Rates are inclusive of meals.
8Getting There & Away
Buses between Mysuru and Ooty can drop you at Bandipur (₹78, 2½ hours), an 88km journey. Taxis from Mysuru are about ₹2000.
Nagarhole National Park
Rich in wildlife, jungle and boasting a scenic lake, the 643-sq-km Nagarhole National Park (Rajiv Gandhi National Park; GOOGLE MAP ; Indian/foreigner ₹200/1000, video ₹1000; h6am-6pm) (pronounced nag-ar-hole-eh) is one of Karnataka’s best wildlife getaways, containing good numbers of animals including tigers and elephants. Flanking the Kabini River, it forms an important protected region that includes neighbouring Bandipur National Park and several other reserves. The lush forests here are home to tigers, leopards, elephants, gaurs, muntjacs (barking deer), wild dogs, bonnet macaques and common langurs, and 270 species of birds. The park can remain closed for long stretches between July and October, when the rains transform the forests into a giant slush-pit.
The Kabini River empties into the Kabini Reservoir, creating a vast watering hole for Nagarhole's wildlife. Herds of wild elephants and other animals gather on the banks, and the high concentration of wildlife has made this one of Karnataka's top wildlife-spotting locations.
The traditional inhabitants of the land, the hunter-gatherer Jenu Kuruba people, still live in the park, despite government efforts to relocate them.
2Activities
Government-Run SafarisSAFARI
( GOOGLE MAP ; Kabini River Lodge; 2½hr 4WD safari ₹3000)
Leave at 6am and 3pm when conditions permit in the dry season.
20-Seater Motorboat RidesBOATING, WILDLIFE
( GOOGLE MAP ; Kabini River Lodge; per person ₹2000)
Organised by the Kabini River Lodge for relaxed wildlife viewing, and excellent for birders.
4Sleeping & Eating
Kabini Lake (home to most lodges) makes a wonderful base, but has no real budget hotels. For inexpensive places head to the park HQ.
Karapur HotelGUESTHOUSE$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %9945904840; Karapura roundabout; r ₹1200)
The only budget option close to Kabini is this simple lodge with a few rooms above a shop in the township of Karapura, 3km from the park.
oWaterwoods LodgeGUESTHOUSE$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %082-28264421; www.waterwoods.in; d incl full board from ₹13,200; aWs)
On a grassy embankment overlooking scenic Kabini Lake, Waterwoods is a stunning lodge. Most rooms have balconies with wonderful lake views, swing chairs, hardwood floors and designer flair. It’s kid-friendly with trampoline, infinity pool, free canoe hire and wood-fired pizzas. Pamper yourself in the spa which has massage rooms, Jacuzzi and a steam bath.
Serai KabiniLODGE$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %080-40012200; http://theserai.in/kabini; r incl full board from ₹16,450; aWs)
Perfectly set up for wildlife spotting, this luxury lodge has wonderful lake-facing bungalows, and organises tip-top jungle safaris, boat trips and nature walks. The restaurant is beautifully designed and the cuisine excellent. There's a beautiful spa too. Located on the north shore of Kabini Reservoir.
Bison ResortLODGE$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %080-41278708; www.thebisonresort.com; Gundathur Village; camping per person from ₹2500, s/d incl full board from US$320/370; Ws)
Inspired by luxury safari lodges in Africa, Bison succeeds in replicating the classic wilderness experience with a stunning waterfront location and choice between canvas-walled cottages, stilted bungalows or bush camping. They offer a wide selection of activities including treks to local tribal villages and sunset boat rides. Service standards are top-notch and there are expert naturalists at hand.
KAAV Safari LodgeLODGE$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08228-264492; www.kaav.com; Mallali Cross, Kabini; incl full board s/d from ₹10,400/13,200, tent from ₹12,000; aWs)
A kind of designer safari lodge, KAAV has open-plan rooms with polished concrete floors, hip bathrooms and spacious balconies that open directly to the national park. Yes, the attention to detail is superb. Head up to the viewing tower to lounge on plush day beds, or take a dip in the infinity pool. No children under 10.
8Getting There & Away
The park’s main entrance is 93km southwest of Mysuru. Two buses depart daily from Mysuru to Karapuram (₹68, 2½ hours), around 3km from Kabini Lake. A taxi from Mysuru is around ₹2000.
Kodagu (Coorg) Region
Nestled amid evergreen hills that line the southernmost edge of Karnataka is the luscious Kodagu (Coorg) region, gifted with emerald landscapes and hectares of plantations. A major centre for coffee and spice production, this rural expanse is also home to the Kodava people, who are divided into 1000 clans. The uneven terrain and cool climate make it a fantastic area for trekking, birdwatching or lazily ambling down little-trodden paths winding around carpeted hills. All in all, Kodagu is rejuvenation guaranteed.
Kodagu was a state in its own right until 1956, when it merged with Karnataka. The region’s chief town and transport hub is Madikeri, but for an authentic Kodagu experience, you have to venture into the countryside. Avoid weekends if you can, when places can quickly get filled up by weekenders from Bengaluru.
2Activities
Exploring the region by foot is a highlight for many visitors. Treks are part cultural experience, part nature encounter, involving hill climbs, plantation visits, forest walks and homestays.
The best season for trekking is October to March; there are no treks during monsoon. The most popular peaks are the seven-day trek to Tadiyendamol (1745m), and to Pushpagiri (1712m) and Kotebetta (1620m). Plenty of day hikes are possible too; Rainforest Retreat organises several. A trekking guide is essential for navigating the labyrinth of forest tracks.
Madikeri (Mercara)
%08272 / Pop 34,200 / Elev 1525m
Madikeri (also known as Mercara) is a congested market town spread out along a series of ridges. The only reason for coming here is to organise treks or sort out the practicalities of travel.
1Sights
Madikeri FortHISTORIC SITE
( GOOGLE MAP )
There are good views from this hilltop fort, built by Tipu Sultan in the 16th century, though today it’s the less glamorous site of the municipal headquarters. You can walk a short section of ramparts and within the fort’s walls are the hexagonal palace (now the dusty district commissioner’s office) and colonial-era church, which houses a quirky museum ( GOOGLE MAP ; h10am-5.30pm Sun-Fri).
Raja’s SeatVIEWPOINT
( GOOGLE MAP ; MG Rd; ₹5; h5.30am-7pm)
A very popular spot to enjoy sunset, as the raja himself did, with fantastic outlooks to rolling hills and endless valleys.
Raja’s TombsHISTORIC BUILDING
(Gaddige; GOOGLE MAP )F
These domed tombs are built in Indo-Sarcenic style and serve as the resting place for Kodava royalty and dignitaries. Located 7km from Madikeri, so take an autorickshaw (₹200).
Abbi FallsWATERFALL
( GOOGLE MAP )
A spectacular sight after the rainy season, these 21.3m-high falls can pack a punch.
2Activities
Coorg Sky AdventuresSCENIC FLIGHTS
(%9448954384; www.coorgskyadventures.com; short/long flight ₹2500/8000)
Soar over plantation and paddy valleys on a microlight flight for tremendous views of Coorg’s lush scenery. An experienced, professional operator.
AyurjeevanAYURVEDA
( GOOGLE MAP ; %944974779; www.ayurjeevancoorg.com; Kohinoor Rd; 1hr from ₹1400; h7am-7pm)
An ayurvedic ‘hospital’ that offers a whole range of intriguing and rejuvenating techniques including rice ball massages and oil baths. It’s a short walk from the State Bank India.
4Sleeping
With fantastic guesthouses in the surrounding plantations, there’s no real reason to stay in Madikeri, unless you arrive very late.
Hotel ChitraHOTEL$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08272-225372; www.hotelchitra.co.in; School Rd; dm ₹270, d from ₹780, with AC ₹1760; a)
Concrete hotel close to Madikeri’s main intersection, so expect some background traffic noise. Provides low-cost, no-frills rooms and friendly service.
Hotel Mayura Valley ViewHOTEL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08272-228387; www.kstdc.co/hotels/hotel-mayura-valley-view-madikeri; Stuart Hill; d/ste incl breakfast from ₹3250/4950; aW)
On the hilltop past Raja’s Seat, this government hotel is one of Madikeri’s best, with large bright rooms, a peaceful ambience and fantastic valley views. Its restaurant-bar with terrace overlooking the valley is a great spot for a beer.
5Eating
Coorg CuisineINDIAN$
( GOOGLE MAP ; Main Rd; mains ₹100-130; hnoon-4pm & 7-10pm)
Championing unique Kodava specialities such as pandhi barthadh (pork dry fry) and kadambuttu (rice dumplings), this restaurant is well worth trying. It's not exactly atmospheric, located above a shop on the main road, but there are a few portraits on the walls and the seating is comfy.
oRaintreeMULTICUISINE$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.raintree.in; 13-14 Pension Lane; meals ₹170-260; h11.30am-10pm)
A welcome surprise in a humdrum town, this cute converted bungalow makes a homely place for a delicious meal, with solid wooden furniture and some tribal art. The food does not disappoint either, with local specialities and dishes from the coast. They also sell wine and great Kodagu coffee. Located just behind Madikeri Town Hall.
8Information
Travel CoorgTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08272-223333; www.travelcoorg.in; outside KSRTC bus stand; h24hr)
Provides a good overview of things to do, as well as arranging homestays, trekking guides and other activities. Also offers transport.
8Getting There & Away
Very regular buses depart from the KSRTC bus stand for Bengaluru (fan/AC ₹350/539, 5½ to seven hours), stopping in Mysuru (₹162/250, 2½ to four hours) en route. Buses go roughly every two hours in the daytime to Mangaluru (₹135/283, three to four hours), while infrequent ordinary buses head to Hassan (₹117, four hours).
Around Madikeri
The beguiling highlands around Madikeri offer some of the Kodagu’s most enchanting countryside. Dotted around its lush hills are numerous spice and coffee plantations, and some tea is grown too.
2Activities
oJiva SpaAYURVEDA, MASSAGE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08272-2665800; www.tajhotels.com/jivaspas/index.html; Vivanta, Galibeedu; treatments from ₹2700; h9am-9pm)
Surrounded by rainforest, Jiva Spa at the stunning Vivanta hotel is the place to treat yourself with a range of rejuvenating treatments. With soak tubs, a relaxation lounge, beauty salon and a yoga and meditation zone, it's one of the best in South India. Appointments essential.
Swaasthya Ayurveda Retreat VillageAYURVEDA
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.swaasthya.com; Bekkesodlur Village; per person per day incl full board & yoga class ₹7000)
For an exceptionally peaceful and refreshing ayurvedic vacation, head to south Coorg to soothe your soul among the lush greenery on 1.6 hectares of coffee and spice plantations. Prices include up to six treatments a day.
4Sleeping & Eating
Rainforest RetreatGUESTHOUSE$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08272-265638, 08272-265639; www.rainforestours.com; Galibeedu; s/d tent ₹1500/2000, cottage from ₹2500/3000; W)S
A great place to socialise with eco-minded Indians, this nature-soaked refuge is immersed within forest and plantations and an organic, sustainable set-up. Accommodation is lazy camping (prepitched tents with beds) or cottages with solar power. Rates include plantation tours and treks. Check the website for volunteering opportunities. An autorickshaw from Madikeri is ₹240.
Victorian VerandazB&B$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08272-200234; http://victorianverandaz.com; Modur Estate, Kadagadal Village; d self-catering ₹2000-5500, B&B ₹2950; W)
Fine family-owned lodgings on a huge estate that grows coffee, pepper, cardamom and rice. There's a choice of accommodation, with two rental cottages that have kitchens which are available on a self-catering basis and two rooms in a cottage which operate on a B&B basis. There's good birding and trail walking on the estate.
Golden MistHOMESTAY$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %9448903670, 08272-265629; www.golden-mist.net; Galibeedu; s/d incl full board ₹2500/4000)
An incredibly peaceful, very rustic Indian-German-managed tea, coffee and rice-growing farm. The cottages have character though they are basic and best suited for outdoor types rather than those who prize their creature comforts. Meals are tasty local dishes made from the farm’s organic produce and staff are very hospitable. It's tricky to find and not signposted, an autorickshaw costs ₹250 from Madikeri.
oVivantaHOTEL$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08272-665800; www.vivantabytaj.com; Galibeedu; r from ₹15,800; iWs)
Built across 72 hectares of misty rainforest this effortlessly stylish hotel incorporates principles of space and minimalism, and effectively blends into its environment. Old cattle tracks lead to rooms, with pricier ones featuring private indoor pools, fireplaces and butlers. There are astonishing highland views from the lobby and infinity pool, and a top-class ayurvedic spa.
DON'T MISS
BYLAKUPPE
The small, beautifully kept village of Bylakuppe, just south of the Mysuru–Mangaluru highway, forms South India’s largest Tibetan community. Established in 1961, it was among the first refugee camps set up in South India to house thousands of Tibetans who fled from Tibet following the 1959 Chinese invasion. Over 10,000 Tibetans live here (including 3300 monks).
Foreigners are not allowed to stay overnight without a Protected Area Permit (PAP) from the Ministry of Home Affairs in Delhi, which can take months to process. Contact the Tibet Bureau Office for details. Day trippers are welcome to visit, however.
The area’s highlight is the atmospheric Namdroling Monastery ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.namdroling.org; 7am-6pm), home to the spectacular Golden Temple (Padmasambhava Buddhist Vihara; GOOGLE MAP ; h7am-6pm), presided over by three 18m-high gold-plated Buddha statues. The temple is at its dramatic best when prayers are in session and it rings out with gongs, drums and the drone of hundreds of young monks chanting. You’re welcome to meditate. The Zangdogpalri Temple ( GOOGLE MAP ; h7am-6pm), a similarly ornate affair, is next door.
If you have a permit, the simple Paljor Dhargey Ling Guest House ( GOOGLE MAP ; %08223-258686; pdguesthouse@yahoo.com; r ₹275-375) is opposite the Golden Temple. For delicious momos (Tibetan dumplings) or thukpa (noodle soup), pop into the Tibetan-run Malaya Restaurant ( GOOGLE MAP ; momos ₹60-90; h7am-9pm). Thirsty Crow ( GOOGLE MAP ; south of Namdroling Monastery) offers fine fresh juices, milkshakes, lime sodas, teas and coffees. Otherwise there are many hotels in nearby Kushalnagar – including modern, well-presented Hotel White Wings ( GOOGLE MAP ; %9741155900; http://whitewingscoorg.com; 1-86, BM Rd, Kushalnagar; r with AC ₹2100; aW) – and the surrounding countryside.
Autorickshaws (shared/solo ₹15/30) run to Bylakuppe from Kushalnagar, 5km away. Buses frequently do the 34km run to Kushalnagar from Madikeri (₹45, 45 minutes) and Hassan (₹80, 2½ hours). Most buses on the Mysuru–Madikeri route stop at Kushalnagar.
Kakkabe
%08272 / Pop 580
Surrounded by forested hills, this tranquil village and hiking hot spot is an ideal base to plan an assault on Kodagu’s highest peak, Tadiyendamol, or just enjoy a wander along scenic highland trails.
4Sleeping & Eating
oHoney Valley EstateGUESTHOUSE$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08272-238339; www.honeyvalleyindia.in; r from ₹800, without bathroom from ₹550; W)
A homestay on a hilltop, this wonderful trekking guesthouse, at 1250m above sea level, transports you into a lovely cool, fresh, natural environment. The owners’ friendliness, eco-mindedness and local knowledge of wildlife is excellent. There are 18 local trekking routes and six different accommodation options. It’s accessible by 4WD only (₹200, book via hotel) from Kakkabe.
ChingaaraGUESTHOUSE$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08272-238633; www.chingaara.com; Kabbinakad; r incl half board ₹2300-3200; W)
This delightful farmhouse is surrounded by verdant coffee plantations, with good birding in the vicinity. Rooms are spacious, and most have good views – especially room 9. Good home-style cooking is served and staff will light a bonfire at night. It’s 2.5km up a rocky steep hill (4WD only); call ahead and Chingaara’s jeep will pick you up from Kabbinakad junction.
Tamara ResortRESORT$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %080-71077700; www.thetamara.com; Yavakapadi Village; r incl meals & activities from ₹23,800; aWs)
Set in a coffee estate, this romantic nature resort has stilted cottages that soar above the lush green surrounds. Luxurious rooms all have teak floorboards, balconies and king-sized beds. Its memorable restaurant is raised above the plantations with a glass-bottom floor to look down upon. There are three good local treks, yoga classes and a spa. No children under 12.
Hassan
%08172 / Pop 138,000
This sprawling, congested transport hub (with decent accommodation) has minimal appeal other than as a base to visit nearby Belur, Halebid or Sravanabelagola. The helpful tourist office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %08172-268862; AVK College Rd; Mon-Fri 10am-5.30pm) advises on transport options.
4Sleeping
SS ResidencyHOTEL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08172-233466; www.ssresidency.co.in; BM Rd; r from ₹1960; aW)
Modern, centrally located hotel with a wide choice of rooms, all attractively styled with cream furnishings, cable TV and minibars. There's no restaurant, however.
8Getting There & Away
From the New Bus Stand ( GOOGLE MAP ; Hwy 71), 500m south of the town centre, buses depart to Mysuru (₹112, three hours), Bengaluru (₹192 to ₹469, 3½ to 4½ hours) and Mangaluru (₹163 to ₹355, 3½ to 4½ hours). A day tour of Belur and Halebid or Sravanabelagola will cost you about ₹1400.
From Hassan’s well-organised train station, three to four trains head to Mysuru daily (sleeper/2AC ₹140/695, two to three hours), all in the dead of night. For Bengaluru, there’s the red-eye 3am 16518 Bangalore Express (sleeper/2AC ₹180/695, 5½ hours).
Belur (Beluru)
%08177 / Pop 9320 / Elev 968m
The Hoysala temples at Belur (also Beluru) and nearby Halebid are the apex of one of the most artistically exuberant periods of ancient Hindu cultural development. Architecturally, they are South India’s answer to Khajuraho in Madhya Pradesh and Konark near Puri in Odisha (Orissa).
1Sights
Channakeshava TempleHINDU TEMPLE
( GOOGLE MAP ; Temple Rd; guide ₹250; h7.30am-7.30pm)
Commissioned in AD 1116 to commemorate the Hoysalas’ victory over the neighbouring Cholas, this temple took more than a century to build, and is currently the only one among the three major Hoysala sites still in daily use – try to be there for the puja (offerings or prayer) ceremonies at 9am, 3pm and 7.30pm.
Some parts of the temple, such as the exterior lower friezes, were not sculpted to completion and are thus less elaborate. However, the work higher up is unsurpassed in detail and artistry, and is a glowing tribute to human skill.
Particularly intriguing are the angled bracket figures depicting women in ritual dancing poses. While the front of the temple is reserved for images depicting erotic sections from the Kama Sutra, the back is strictly for gods. The roof of the inner sanctum is held up by rows of exquisitely sculpted pillars, no two of which are identical in design.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hotel Mayura VelapuriHOTEL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0817-7222209; www.kstdc.co/hotels; Kempegowda Rd; d with fan/AC from ₹1200/1550; a)
A renovated state-run hotel located on the way to Channakeshava Temple with pretty comfortable, spacious rooms. Its restaurant-bar serves a variety of Indian dishes (from ₹80) to go with beer.
8Getting There & Away
There are frequent buses to/from Hassan (₹44 to ₹96, 45 minutes), 38km away, and Halebid (₹25, 30 minutes). It’s also possible to visit on day-trip KSTDC tour from Bengaluru or Mysuru.
Halebid
%08177 / Pop 9348
Halebid (also called Halibidu, or Halebeedu) is a small town that's home to a stunning Hoysala temple and some other minor Jain sites. Most travellers visit on a day trip from Belur, 15km west.
1Sights
Hoysaleswara TempleHINDU TEMPLE
( GOOGLE MAP ; hdawn-dusk)
Construction of the Hoysaleswara Temple, Halebid’s claim to fame, began around AD 1121 and went on for more than 80 years. It was never completed, but nonetheless stands today as a masterpiece of Hoysala architecture. The interior of its inner sanctum, chiselled out of black stone, is marvellous. On the outside, the temple’s richly sculpted walls are covered with a flurry of Hindu deities, sages, stylised animals and friezes depicting the life of the Hoysala rulers.
MuseumMUSEUM
( GOOGLE MAP ; ₹5; h9am-5pm Sat-Thu)
Adjacent to Hoysaleswara Temple is this small museum with a collection of beautiful sculptures from around Halebid.
4Sleeping
Hotel Mayura ShanthalaHOTEL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08177-273224; www.kstdc.co/hotels/; d incl breakfast from ₹1600; aW)
Set in a leafy garden right opposite the temple complex, Hotel Mayura Shanthala is the best sleeping option.
8Getting There & Away
Regular buses depart for Hassan (₹35, one hour), 33km away; buses to Belur are ₹25. KSTDC tours from Bengaluru and Mysuru also visit Halebid.
Sravanabelagola
%08176 / Pop 5660
Atop the bare rocky summit of Vindhyagiri Hill, the 17.5m-high statue of the Jain deity Gomateshvara (Bahubali) is visible long before you reach the pilgrimage town of Sravanabelagola (also spelt Shravanabelagola). Viewing the statue close up is the main reason for heading to this sedate town, whose name means ‘Monk of the White Pond'.
1Sights
Gomateshvara StatueJAIN SITE
( GOOGLE MAP ; Bahubali; h6.30am-6.30pm)
A steep climb up 614 steps takes you to the top of Vindhyagiri Hill, the summit of which is lorded over by the towering naked statue of the Jain deity Gomateshvara (Bahubali). Commissioned by a military commander in the service of the Ganga king Rachamalla and carved out of a single piece of granite by the sculptor Aristenemi in AD 98, it is said to be the world’s tallest monolithic statue. Leave your shoes at the foot of the hill.
Bahubali was the son of emperor Vrishabhadeva, who later became the first Jain tirthankar (revered teacher), Adinath. Embroiled in fierce competition with his brother Bharatha to succeed his father, Bahubali realised the futility of material gains and renounced his kingdom. As a recluse, he meditated in complete stillness in the forest until he attained enlightenment. His lengthy meditative spell is denoted by vines curling around his legs and an ant hill at his feet.
Every 12 years, millions flock here to attend the Mastakabhisheka (hFeb) ceremony, when the statue is dowsed in holy waters, pastes, powders, precious metals and stones. The next ceremony is slated for 2018.
SRAVANABELAGOLA (SHRAVANABELAGOLA) JAIN TEMPLES
Apart from the Gomateshvara statue, there are several interesting Jain temples in town. The Chandragupta Basti (Chandragupta Community; GOOGLE MAP ; h6am-6pm), on Chandragiri Hill opposite Vindhyagiri, is believed to have been built by Emperor Ashoka. The Bhandari Basti (Bhandari Community; GOOGLE MAP ; h6am-6pm), in the southeast corner of town, is Sravanabelagola’s largest temple. Nearby, Chandranatha Basti (Chandranatha Community; GOOGLE MAP ; h6am-6pm) has well-preserved paintings depicting Jain tales.
4Sleeping & Eating
The local Jain organisation SDJMI (%08176-257258) handles bookings for its 15 guesthouses (double/triple ₹250/310). The office is behind the Vidyananda Nilaya Dharamsala, past the post office.
Hotel RaghuHOTEL$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %08176-257238; s/d from ₹400/500, d with AC ₹900; a)
Very basic rooms that are something of a last resort should you be stranded in town. However, the vegetarian restaurant downstairs works up an awesome veg thali (₹90).
8Getting There & Away
There are no direct buses from Sravanabelagola to Hassan or Belur – you must go to Channarayapatna (₹40, 20 minutes) and catch an onward connection there. One daily bus runs direct to Mysuru (₹149, 1½ hours).