Southern Maharashtra

Konkan Coast

A little-developed shoreline running south from Mumbai all the way to Goa, this picturesque strip of coast is peppered with picture-postcard beaches, fishing villages and magnificent ruined forts. Travelling through this tropical backwater can be sheer bliss, whether you're off to dabble in the sands with Mumbaikars in Ganpatipule, visit the stunning Janjira Fort at Murud-Janjira or head into the blue at Malvan, the last beach town of significance before the sands give way to Goa.

Murud-Janjira

icon-phonegif%02144 / Pop 13,100

The sleepy fishing hamlet of Murud-Janjira – 165km from Mumbai – should be on any itinerary of the Konkan Coast. The relaxed pace of life, fresh seafood, stupendous offshore Janjira fort (and the chance to feel the warm surf rush past your feet) make the trip here well worthwhile.

Murud-Janjira's beach is fun for a run or game of cricket with locals and it comes alive with street stalls and beach tomfoolery nightly. Alternatively, you could peer through the gates of the off-limits Ahmedganj Palace, estate of the Siddi Nawab of Murud, or scramble around the decaying mosque and tombs on the south side of town.

1Sights

icon-top-choiceoJanjiraFORT

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-hoursgifh7am-dusk)icon-freeF

The commanding, brooding fortress of Janjira, built on an island 500m offshore, is the most magnificent of the string of forts that line the Konkan coastline. This citadel was completed in 1571 by the Siddis, descendants of slaves from the Horn of Africa, and was the capital of a princely state.

Over the centuries Siddi alignment with Mughals provoked conflict with local kings, including Shivaji and his son Sambhaji, who attempted to scale the walls and tunnel to it, respectively. However, no outsider (including British, French and Portuguese colonists) ever made it past the fort’s 12m-high granite walls which, when seen during high tide, seem to rise straight from the sea. Unconquered through history, the fort is finally falling to forces of nature as its mighty walls slowly crumble and wilderness reclaims its innards.

Still, there’s a lot to see today, including the remarkable close-fitting stonework that’s protected the citadel against centuries of attack by storms, colonists and gunpowder. You approach the fort via a brooding grey-stone gateway and can then explore its ramparts (complete with giant cannons) and 19 bastions, large parts of which are intact. Its inner keep, palaces and mosque are in ruins, though the fort’s huge twin reservoirs remain. As many of the surviving walls and structures are in poor shape, tread carefully while you explore the site, which is unfortunately littered with trash.

The only way to reach Janjira is by boat (₹61 return, 20 minutes) from Rajpuri port. Boats depart with a minimum 20 people from 7am to noon and 2pm to 5.30pm on weekdays and 7am to 5.30pm on weekends, and allow you 45 minutes to explore the fort. To get to Rajpuri from Murud-Janjira, take an autorickshaw (₹150) or hire a bicycle.

4Sleeping & Eating

Sea Shore ResortGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%9209240603; www.seashoreresortmurud.com; Darbar Rd; r with/without AC ₹2000/1500; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

The advantage at this dead-simple guesthouse is a palm-fringed sea-view room with a small balcony and wi-fi for ₹2000 or less. The beach-facing garden is a bit ramshackle, but there are a few hammocks. Faisal, the friendly man about the place, speaks some English.

Devakinandan LodgeGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%9273457057; Darbar Rd; r with/without AC ₹2000/1500; icon-acongifa)

This sparkling little green-and-red guesthouse has clean, basic rooms with TV and attached bathrooms with hot water. The family owners are friendly but speak very little English.

Sea Shell ResortHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02144-274306; www.seashellmurud.com; Darbar Rd; r with/without AC from ₹2500/2000; icon-acongifaicon-swimgifs)

Set back from the beachside road, this cheery place has glistening, spacious and breezy sea-facing rooms with hot-water bathrooms (rain-style showers, thick bath towels) that look far better than the facade would indicate. There's a tiny pool as well.

Hotel VinayakINDIAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; Darbar Rd; mains ₹120-400; icon-hoursgifh7am-10pm)

Its sea-facing terrace is the perfect place to tuck into a delicious and fiery Konkani thali (₹120 to ₹300), with fish curry, tawa (hotplate) fish fry, sol kadhi (pink-coloured, slightly sour digestive made from coconut milk and kokum fruit) and more. Fresh fish, prawn dishes and good breakfasts are also available.

8Getting There & Around

Ferries and catamarans (₹125 to ₹165) from the Gateway of India in Mumbai cruise to Mandva pier between 6am and 7pm. The ticket includes a free shuttle bus to Alibag (30 minutes). Rickety local buses from Alibag head down the coast to Murud-Janjira (₹70, two hours, every 30 minutes). Alternatively, 10 buses depart Mumbai Central bus stand between 6am and 1am and take almost six hours to reach Murud-Janjira (non-AC ₹200). Four buses a day continue on to Pune (₹215, seven hours, 7.30am, 2pm, 3pm and 4pm).

The nearest railhead is at Roha, two hours away and poorly connected.

Bicycles (per hour/day ₹150/250) and cars (₹15 per kilometre) can be hired at the Golden Swan Beach Resort ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%9225591131; www.goldenswan.com; Darbar Rd; r incl breakfast from ₹4170; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW).

WORTH A TRIP

ALL ABOARD THE KONKAN RAILWAY

One in a long list of storied Indian train rides, the Konkan Railway hugs the southwest Indian coast along a 738km journey between Maharashtra, Goa and Karnataka. The line, which has hosted passenger trains since 1998, is considered the biggest and most expansive infrastructure project the country has undertaken (and completed) since independence. So much so, the very idea was dismissed outright in the early 20th century by the British, who deemed the whole adventure an impossible task of construction and engineering, leaving it to the locals to finish the job over the course of several decades (10 of whom lost their lives in the disaster-plagued process).

Today, the ridiculously scenic route, chock-full of picturesque paddy fields, rolling green hills, craggy mountaintops, storybook sea views and numerous tunnels, waterfalls, viaducts and jungly landscapes, is made possible by 92 tunnels and 2000 bridges, including Panval Viaduct, India’s highest (and Asia’s third) viaduct at 64m tall.

Most travellers enjoy the Konkan ride on the Mandovi Express from Mumbai to Goa, but train enthusiasts can take in the whole shebang on the Mangalore Express, a 14-hour journey from Mumbai to Mangalore.

Around Murud-Janjira

Raigad Fort

Alone on a high and remote hilltop, 24km off Hwy 66, the enthralling Raigad Fort (Indian/foreigner ₹15/200; icon-hoursgifh8am-5.30pm) served as Shivaji’s capital from 1648 until his death in 1680. The fort was later sacked by the British and some colonial structures added, but monuments such as the royal court, plinths of royal chambers, the main marketplace and Shivaji’s tomb still remain – it's worth an excursion.

You can hike a crazy 1475 steps to the top, but for a more ‘levitating’ experience, take the vertigo-inducing ropeway (www.raigadropeway.com; return ₹250; icon-hoursgifh8am-7pm) – actually a cable car – which climbs up the cliff and offers a bird’s-eye view of the deep gorges below. Be warned this is a very popular attraction with domestic tourists and you may have to wait up to an hour for a ride during holiday times. Guides (₹500) are available within the fort complex. Sarja Restaurant (snacks ₹35-80; icon-hoursgifh8am-7pm), adjoining the ropeway’s base terminal, is a basic place for lunch or snacks.

Autorickshaws shuttle up to the ropeway from the town of Mahad on Hwy 66 (look out for the ‘Raigad Ropeway’ sign) for ₹700 return including wait time. Mahad is 158km south of Mumbai and 88km from Murud-Janjira. The Mahad–Raigad road is paved and in good condition. Car and drivers charge ₹15 per kilometre for a day trip here from Murud-Janjira. There are buses every two to three hours from Mahad to Mahabaleshwar (₹70, two hours).

Ganpatipule

icon-phonegif%02357

The tiny beach resort of Ganpatipule has been luring a steady stream of beach lovers over the years with its warm waters and wonderful stretches of sand. Located about 375km from Mumbai, it’s a village that snoozes through much of the year, except during holidays such as Diwali or Ganesh Chaturthi. These are times when hordes of boisterous tourists turn up to visit the seaside Swayambhu Temple ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-hoursgifh6am-9pm), which houses a monolithic Ganesh (painted a bright orange). For more solitude, the beaches just south of the main beach (such as Neware Beach) are both more spectacular than Ganpatipule and less crowded – have an autorickshaw take you there.

To reach Ganpatipule, you'll pass through the transport hub of Ratnagiri, home to the crumbling Thibaw Palace ( GOOGLE MAP ; Thibaw Palace Rd; admission free; icon-hoursgifh10am-5.30pm Tue-Sun), where the last Burmese king, Thibaw, was interned by the British.

4Sleeping & Eating

Grand Konkan ResortGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02357-235291; www.atithilodgeganpatipule.com; r with/without AC ₹1800/1500)

A tad ambitiously named, but this family-run guesthouse behind the simple and cheaper Atithi Lodge (same owners) offers quite nice rooms with a wee bit of character (curtains, wood-framed art) just five minutes' walk from the beach. Hardwood flooring and shelving give off a rustic forest lodge feel. Brothers Jayesh and Rajesh speak English and are more than helpful.

MTDC ResortHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02357-235248; www.mararashtratourism.gov.in; d with/without AC from ₹2740/2380; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

Spread over prime beachfront, this huge operation is something of a holiday camp for Mumbaikar families. Its concrete rooms and cottages would benefit from a little updating, but all boast magnificent full-frontal ocean views. It also packs in a decent restaurant that serves cold beer.

Bhau Joshi BhojnalayINDIAN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; mains ₹55-125; icon-hoursgifh11.30am-3pm & 7.30-10.30pm)

It's not the easiest place to eat (no English sign, nearly no English spoken and no napkins, so bring some baby wipes!), but the delicious Maharashtrian food in this clean, orderly restaurant inland from the beach makes up for the struggles. Try the fantastic baingan masala (eggplant curry; ₹90). Jain and Punjabi dishes also on offer.

Hotel NaivedyaINDIAN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; mains ₹80-170, thali ₹85; icon-hoursgifh10am-7pm)

A simple local's joint in the village serving up a wonderful daily veg thali with a kick (₹85) and the most refreshing sol kadhi we had on the coast.

8Information

There are several ATMs in Ganpatipule, including one about 400m inland from the MTDC Resort.

8Getting There & Around

Ganpatipule has limited transport links. Ratnagiri, 40km to the south, is the nearest major town. Hourly buses (₹33, 1½ hours) connect the two places; autorickshaws cost ₹400.

Two government buses per day leave Ganpatipule for Pune (₹350, five hours, 6.45am and 7.30pm). For Mumbai and Kolhapur (or more timely government departures in general), head back to Ratnagiri (₹33, 1¼ hours, every 30 minutes 7am to 8pm).

There are private buses to Mumbai (Volvo non-AC seater/AC sleeper ₹700/1000, 10 hours, 7pm) and Pune (Volvo AC sleeper ₹800, nine hours, 7pm).

Ratnagiri train station is on the Konkan Railway line. From Ratnagiri, the Mandovi Express goes daily to Mumbai (2nd class/sleeper/2AC ₹188/293/1061, 7½ hours, 2.05pm). The return train heading for Goa (₹163/248/896, 5½ hours) is at 1.15pm. From Ratnagiri’s old bus stand, buses leave for Goa (semideluxe ₹270, six hours) and Kolhapur (₹160, four hours).

Malvan

icon-phonegif%02365

A government tourism promo promotes the emerging Malvan region as comparable to Tahiti, which is a tad ambitious, but it does boast near-white sands, sparkling seas and jungle-fringed backwaters. Offshore there are coral reefs, sea caves and vibrant marine life – diving is becoming a huge draw with the opening of a new world-class diving school.

Malvan town is one of the prettiest on the Konkan Coast. It’s a mellow, bike-friendly place with a good stock of old wooden buildings, a busy little harbour and bazaar and a slow, tropical pace of life. Stretching directly south of the centre is lovely Tarkali beach, home to many hotels and guesthouses.

1Sights & Activities

There are several dive shops operating in Malvan that allow unqualified diving; if you want to dive, stick with a registered operator. The Malvan Marine Sanctuary is the region's top scuba draw with its 67-nautical-mile reef often hailed as India’s Great Barrier Reef.

The southern end of Tarkali beach is bordered by the broad, beautiful Karli River. Several boat operators (you’ll find them moored on the northern bank) offer multistop boat trips along this backwater to Seagull Island, Golden Rock, Dolphin Point and cove beaches and/or Vengurla Rock lighthouse. Trips range from ₹1200 to ₹3500 per boat for up to 10 people.

Sindhudurg FortFORT

( GOOGLE MAP )

Built by Shivaji and dating from 1664, this monstrous fort lies on an offshore island and can be reached by frequent ferries (adult/child ₹70/40, 8am to 5.30pm) from Malvan’s harbour. It’s not as impressive as Janjira up the coast, and today lies mostly in ruins, but it remains a powerful presence. You can explore its ramparts and the coastal views are impressive. Boat operators allow you one hour on the island.

Tarkali BeachBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

A golden arc south of Malvan, this crescent-shaped sandy beach is a vision of tropical India, fringed by coconut palms and casuarina trees, plus the odd cow. At dusk (between October and February) fishermen work together to haul in huge, kilometre-long nets that are packed with sardines. A rickshaw here from Malvan town is ₹150.

icon-top-choiceoIISDADIVING

(Indian Institute of Scuba Diving & Aquasports; GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02365-248790; www.maharashtratourism.gov.in; Tarkali Beach; per dive ₹3700, PADI Open Water course ₹22,000; icon-hoursgifh7am-7pm)

This state-of-the-art PADI diving centre, an initiative of Maharashtra Tourism, is India’s finest, run by marine biologist and all-round diving pro Dr Sarang Kulkarni. It offers professional instruction, a 20m-long and 8m-deep pool for training, air-conditioned classrooms and comfortable sleeping quarters for students. IISDA is also a marine conservation centre and there’s even a restaurant, bar and tennis court.

Located 7km south of Malvan.

MALVAN MARINE SANCTUARY

The shoreline around Malvan is incredibly diverse, with rich wetlands, sandy and rocky beaches, mangroves and backwaters. But underwater it’s arguably even more compelling, with coral patches and caves that shelter abundant marine life and extensive forests of sargassum seaweed that acts as a nursery for juvenile fish. Rocky offshore islands attract schools of snapper and large grouper, butterfly fish, yellow-striped fusilers, manta and sting rays and lobster. Pods of dolphins are regularly seen between October to May and the world’s largest fish, the whale shark, even puts in an appearance every now and then.

Presently only a small section is protected as the Malvan Marine Sanctuary, which encompasses the Sindhudurg Fort; yet such is its rich diversity that marine biologists, including the director of the Indian Institute of Scuba Diving & Aquasports (IISDA), Dr Sarang Kulkarni, feel it’s essential that the boundaries are extended. The reef extends for 67 nautical miles offshore and has been described as India’s Great Barrier Reef. A submerged plateau, the Angria Bank, is 40km long and 20km wide, with healthy coral and an abundance of sealife: nurse sharks are seen on almost every dive. IISDA has big plans in the works to operate day trips and live-aboard excursions to Angria.

4Sleeping & Eating

Vicky's Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%9823423046; www.malvanvickysguesthouse.com; near Heravi Batti, Dandi Beach; r with/without AC from ₹1500/1000; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

Down a quiet residential lane surrounded by lush palms 400m from Dandi Beach and steps form Malvan town, cool and mellow Vicky has five purpose-built rooms that don't look like much on arrival but are actually spacious, well-equipped and extremely comfortable for the price. Vicky himself is super helpful and hospitable as is the downright gracious family.

icon-top-choiceoChaitanyaMALVANI$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; 502 Dr Vallabh Marg; mains ₹150-325; icon-hoursgifh11am-11pm)

On Malvan’s main drag, this great, family-run place specialises in Konkan cuisine including bangda tikhale (fish in thick coconut sauce), prawns malvani and very flavoursome crab masala; portions won't thrill you, but it's first-rate seafood. Its vegetarian dishes are also excellent. It’s always packed with locals and has an air-con section.

Athithi BambooMALVANI$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; Church St, Chival; thalis ₹80-325; icon-hoursgifhnoon-4pm & 8-10.30pm)

On the north side of the harbour, this large casual place offers excellent Malvani thalis and lots of fresh fish. There’s no sign or menu in English and you sit under a tin roof (so it gets very hot during the day), but the seafood is surf-fresh and the cooking Konkan-authentic.

8Getting There & Away

The closest train station is Kudal, 38km away. Frequent buses (₹38, one hour) cover the route from Malvan Bus Stand ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02365-252034; Shri Babi Hadkar Marg) or an autorickshaw is about ₹500. Malvan has ordinary buses to Kolhapur (non-AC from ₹189, five hours), Mumbai (₹562, 12 hours, 8am), Panaji (non-AC from ₹102, four hours, 6.45am, 7.45am, 2.30pm and 3.15pm) and Ratnagiri (non-AC from ₹190, five hours, 6am, 7.45am and 11.15am). Slightly quicker to Goa are the blue-and-white Kadamba Goan government buses (₹135, 3½ hours, 7.45am, 2.30pm and 3pm) to Mapusa and Panaji.

There are private bus agents on Dr Vallabh Marg selling more comfortable seats on Volvo buses to Mumbai and Pune, but these depart 33km inland from Malvan in Kasal and transport is not provided.

Malvan is only 80km from northern Goa; private drivers charge ₹2000 (non-AC) to ₹2500 (AC) for the two-hour trip.

Matheran

icon-phonegif%02148 / Pop 5750 / Elev 803m

Matheran, literally ‘Jungle Above’, is a tiny patch of peace and quiet capping a craggy Sahyadri summit within spitting distance of Mumbai’s heat and grime. Endowed with shady forests criss-crossed with foot trails and breathtaking lookouts, it still retains an elegance and colonial-era ambience, though creeping commercialism and illegal construction are marring its appeal (it could do without the Ferris wheel and wax museum, for example).

In the past, getting to Matheran was really half the fun. While speedier options were available by road, nothing beat arriving in town on the narrow-gauge toy train that chugged up to the heart of the settlement, but derailment woes caused the suspension of the train in 2016, with no planned timetable for getting it moving again.

Motor vehicles are banned within Matheran, making it an ideal place to give your ears and lungs a rest and your feet some exercise.

1Sights & Activities

You can walk along shady forest paths to most of Matheran’s viewpoints in a matter of hours; it’s a place well suited to stress-free ambling. To catch the sunrise, head to Panorama Point, while Porcupine Point (also known as Sunset Point) is the most popular (read: packed) as the sun drops. Louisa Point and Little Chouk Point also have stunning views of the Sahyadris.

If you’re here on a weekend or public holiday you might want to avoid the most crowded section around Echo Point, Charlotte Lake and Honeymoon Point, which get rammed with day trippers.

You can reach the valley below One Tree Hill down the path known as Shivaji’s Ladder, supposedly trod upon by the Maratha leader himself.

4Sleeping & Eating

Hope Hall HotelHOTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%8149621803; www.hopehallmatheran.com; MG Rd; d Mon-Fri ₹1200, Sat & Sun ₹1500)

Run by a very hospitable family, this long-running place has been hosting happy travellers for years; the house dates back to 1875. Spacious rooms with high ceilings and arty touches are in two blocks at the rear of the leafy garden. Good breakfasts and drinks are available.

icon-top-choiceoVerandah in the ForestHERITAGE HOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02148-230296; www.neemranahotels.com; Barr House; d incl breakfast Sun-Thu from ₹4760, Sat & Sun from ₹5950; icon-wifigifW)

This deliciously preserved 150-year-old bungalow exudes undiluted nostalgia, with quaintly luxurious rooms. Reminisce about bygone times in the company of ornate candelabras, oriental rugs, antique teak furniture, Victorian canvases and grandfather clocks. The verandah has a lovely aspect over Matheran’s wooded hillsides.

The in-house restaurant offers a terrific four-course Continental dinner (₹700; guests only for dinner, lunch is open to the public).

Shabbir BhaiINDIAN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; Merry Rd; mains ₹100-210; icon-hoursgifh9am-10.30pm)

Known locally as the ‘Byrianiwala’, this funky joint has a full North Indian menu, but it’s all about the spicy biryanis: spiced steamed rice with chicken, mutton and veg. To find it, take the footpath uphill beside the Jama Masjid on MG Rd and follow your nose.

8Information

Entry to Matheran costs ₹50 (₹25 for children), which you pay at the Dasturi car park.

8Getting There & Away

Taxi

Shared taxis (₹70) run from just outside Neral train station to Matheran’s Dasturi car park (30 minutes). Horses (₹350 to all hotels except Verandah in the Forest, which is ₹550) and hand-pulled rickshaws (₹700) wait here to whisk you (relatively speaking) to Matheran’s main bazaar. The horse-wallahs are unionised and their prices are officially posted, but do not agree on a price until you have seen the board, which is located 50m after the Matheran ticket counter (hotel fares bottom-right in smaller font than the rest of the board). You can also walk this stretch in a little under an hour (around 3.5km uphill) and your luggage can be hauled for around ₹250.

Train

Matheran's toy train was suspended in 2016 after two derailments. It normally chugs between Matheran and Neral Junction six times daily.

From Mumbai’s CST station there are two daily express trains to Neral Junction at 7am and 8.40am (2nd class/chair car ₹93/326, 1½ hours), but they cannot be booked online as Neral and Mumbai are considered the same metropolitan area by IRCTC. You must book a further destination (Lonavla, for example) and then hop down at Neral. Alternatively, numerous local trains ply the route from Mumbai CST and Dadar.

Other expresses from Mumbai stop at Karjat, down the line from Neral, from where you can backtrack on a local train or catch a bus to Matheran (₹31, 30 minutes, four times daily 5.45am, 11am, 1.30pm and 4.15pm). From Pune there are numerous daily departures to Karjat. Note: trains from Pune don’t stop at Neral Junction.

8Getting Around

Apart from hand-pulled rickshaws and horses, walking is the only other transport option in Matheran. Horse-wallahs will hustle you constantly for rides (about ₹400 per hour).

Lonavla

icon-phonegif%02114 / Pop 57,400 / Elev 625m

Lonavla is a raucous resort town about 106km southeast of Mumbai. Its main drag consists almost exclusively of garishly lit shops flogging chikki, the rock-hard, brittle sweet made in the area, and you get fun-for-the-whole-family kind of stuff like wax museums, go-carts and India's largest water park. But there are some pleasant side streets, serene residential areas and destination yoga places along with the pastoral surrounding countryside that means you can choose your own path here.

The main reason you’d want to come here is to visit the nearby Karla and Bhaja Caves which, after those at Ellora and Ajanta, are the best in Maharashtra.

Hotels, restaurants and the main road to the caves lie north of the train station. Most of the Lonavla township and its markets are located south of the station.

2Activities

Kaivalyadhama Yoga HospitalYOGA

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%8551092986, 02114-273039; www.kdham.com; 40-day course incl full board US$1000)

This progressive yoga centre is located in neatly kept grounds about 2km from Lonavla, en route to the Karla and Bhaja Caves. Founded in 1924 by Swami Kuvalayananda, it combines yoga courses with naturopathic therapies. Courses cover full board, yoga classes, programs and lectures.

Nirvana AdventuresPARAGLIDING

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%022-26053724; www.flynirvana.com)

Mumbai-based Nirvana Adventures offers paragliding courses (two-day learner course ₹12,000 per person including full board) and short tandem flights (from ₹2500) in a charming rural setting near the town of Kamshet, 25km from Lonavla.

4Sleeping & Eating

icon-top-choiceoFerreira ResortHOTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02114-272689; http://ferreiraresortlonavala.blogspot.co.uk; DT Shahani Rd; r Mon-Thu ₹1300, Fri-Sun ₹1800-2100, with AC Mon-Thu ₹1500, Fri-Sun ₹2000-2500; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

It’s certainly not a resort, but it is something of a rarity in Lonavla: a well-priced, family-run place in a quiet residential location that’s close to the train station. Ten of the 15 clean but worn air-con rooms have a balcony and there’s a little garden as well as room service.

Hotel Rama KrishnaSOUTH INDIAN, PUNJABI$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; Mumbai Pune Rd; mains ₹40-420; icon-hoursgifh7am-11.45pm)

It seems everyone in town – along with passing motorcycle road warriors – gathers on this restaurant's pleasant terrace at breakfast, where great South Indian staples (generously portioned dosas etc) are the way to go. As the day wears on, diners pack in for spicy Punjabi dishes and there's plenty of cold beer to go around.

icon-top-choiceoKinara Dhaba VillageNORTH INDIAN, CHINESE$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.thekinaravillage.com; Vaksai Naka, Old Mumbai Pune Hwy; mains ₹280-560; icon-hoursgifh11am-11.30pm; icon-familygifc)

A bit of a dhaba Disneyland, but therein lies the fun. About 5km east of Lonavla nearer Karla and Bhaja Caves is this fun-for-all restaurant/entertainment venue. Dine under traditional shamiana huts amid obnoxious festival lighting, camel and donkey rides, jalebi (deep-fried batter dunked in sugar syrup) carts, fish pedicure pools and live ghazal (Urdu love songs) music nightly (7pm).

8Getting There & Away

Lonavla is serviced by MSRTC buses departing from the bus stand to Dadar in Mumbai (from ₹150, two hours) and Pune (from ₹100, two hours). From Lonavla, Neeta Bus ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%8652222640; www.neetabus.in; 57/2/2/A Valvan Dam, Old Mumbai Pune Hwy) offers luxury air-con buses to Pune (₹250, hourly 8am to 11pm) and Mumbai (₹400, hourly 7am to 11pm) from its fancy station 3km northeast of the train station. It stops at Sion Station (for access to Churchgate) then heads north through the suburbs, stopping in Vila Parle for the domestic airport and on to Borivali.

All express trains from Mumbai’s CST to Pune stop at Lonavla (2nd class ₹98 to ₹123, chair ₹326 to ₹371, 2½ to three hours).

Karla & Bhaja Caves

While they pale in comparison to Ajanta or Ellora, the Karla and Bhaja rock-cut caves, which date from around the 2nd century BC, are among the better examples of Buddhist cave architecture in India. They are also low on commercial tourism, making them ideal places for a quiet excursion. Karla has the most impressive single cave, but Bhaja is a quieter site to explore.

1Sights

Karla CavesCAVE

( GOOGLE MAP ; Indian/foreigner ₹15/200, video ₹25; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm)

Karla Cave, the largest early chaitya in India, is reached by a 20-minute climb from a minibazaar at the base of a hill. Completed in 80 BC, the chaitya is around 40m long and 15m high and sports a vaulted interior and intricately executed sculptures of Buddha, human and animal figures.

Excluding Ellora’s Kailasa Temple, this is probably the most impressive cave temple in the state. A semicircular ‘sun window’ filters light in towards a dagoba or stupa (the cave’s representation of the Buddha), protected by a carved wooden umbrella, the only remaining example of its kind. The cave’s roof also retains ancient teak buttresses. The 37 pillars forming the aisles are topped by kneeling elephants. The carved elephant heads on the sides of the vestibule once had ivory tusks.

There’s a Hindu temple ( GOOGLE MAP ) in front of the cave, thronged by pilgrims whose presence adds colour to the scene.

Bhaja CavesCAVE

( GOOGLE MAP ; Indian/foreigner ₹15/200, video ₹25; icon-hoursgifh8.30am-5.30pm)

On the other side of the expressway from Karla Caves in a lush setting 3km off the main road, Bhaja Caves is the greener and quieter of the region's caves. Thought to date from around 200 BC, 10 of the 18 caves here are viharas, while Cave 12 is an open chaitya containing a simple dagoba.

8Getting There & Around

Karla is 11km east of Lonavla, and Bhaja 9km. Both can be visited on a local bus to the access point, from where it’s about a 6km return walk on each side to the two sites – but that would be exhausting and hot. Autorickshaws charge between ₹800 and ₹1000 (depending on the day of the week) from Lonavla for the tour, including waiting time.

Pune

icon-phonegif%020 / Pop 5.14 million / Elev 535m

A thriving, vibrant metropolis, Pune is a centre of academia and business that epitomises ‘New India’ with its baffling mix of capitalism and spiritualism (ancient and modern). It’s also globally famous, or notorious, for an ashram, the Osho International Meditation Resort, founded by the late guru Bhagwan Shree Rajneesh.

Pune was initially given pride of place by Shivaji and the ruling Peshwas, who made it their capital. The British took the city in 1817 and, thanks to its cool and dry climate, soon made it the Bombay Presidency’s monsoon capital. Globalisation knocked on Pune’s doors in the 1990s, following which it went in for an image overhaul. However, some colonial-era charm was retained in a few old buildings and residential areas, bringing about a pleasant coexistence of the old and new, which (despite the pollution and hectic traffic) makes Pune a worthwhile place to explore.

1Sights

icon-top-choiceoRaja Dinkar Kelkar MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.rajakelkarmuseum.com; Kamal Kunj, Natu Baug, 1377-78, Shukrawar Peth; Indian/foreigner ₹50/200, mobile/camera ₹100/500; icon-hoursgifh10am-5.30pm)

An oddball of a museum that’s one of Pune’s true delights, housing only a fraction of the 20,000-odd objects of Indian daily life painstakingly collected by Dinkar Kelkar (who died in 1990). The quirky pan-Indian collection includes hundreds of hookah pipes, writing instruments, lamps, textiles, toys, entire doors and windows, kitchen utensils, furniture, puppets, ivory playing cards and betel-nut cutters.

And there's an amazing gallery of musical instruments, including peacock sitars!

Joshi's Museum of Miniature RailwayMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.minirailways.com; 17/1 B/2 GA Kulkarni Rd, Kothrud; ₹90; icon-hoursgifh9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-4pm & 5-8pm Sat, 5-8pm Sun)

Inside the small Soudamini Instruments factory in eastern Pune is what is claimed to be India's only miniature city, the lifelong obsession of model train enthusiast Bhau Joshi. In short, it's one of the world's great model train layouts, a detailed, fully functional and passionate display of mechanical and engineering wow.

It's the stuff of boyhood dreams (and many adults, frankly). It features 65 signals, 26 points, fences, lamp posts and flyovers, a swimming pool, circus fairground (with roller coaster), drive-in theatre and dual-carriageway with moving vehicles among other bells and whistles, all controlled by a panel boasting 5km of wiring.

Aga Khan PalacePALACE

( GOOGLE MAP ; Pune Nagar Rd, Kalyani Nagar; Indian/foreigner ₹15/200, video ₹25; icon-hoursgifh9am-5.30pm)

The grand Aga Khan Palace is set in a peaceful wooded 6.5-hectare plot northeast of the centre. Built in 1892 by Sultan Aga Khan III, this graceful building was where Mahatma Gandhi and other prominent nationalist leaders were interned by the British following Gandhi’s Quit India campaign in 1942.

The main palace now houses the Gandhi National Memorial ( GOOGLE MAP ; Aga Khan Palace, Pune Nagar Road, Kalyani Nagar; icon-hoursgifh9am-5.30pm) where you can peek into the room where the Mahatma used to stay. Photos and paintings exhibit moments in his extraordinary life. Both Kasturba Gandhi, the Mahatma’s wife, and Mahadeobhai Desai, his secretary for 35 years, died here in confinement. You’ll find their shrines (containing their ashes) in a quiet garden to the rear.

Osho Teerth GardensGARDENS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.osho.com; DH Dhunjibhoy Rd, Koregaon Park; icon-hoursgifh6-9am & 3-6pm)

The 5-hectare Osho Teerth Gardens are a verdant escape from urban living with giant bamboo, jogging trails, a gurgling brook and smooching couples. You don’t have to be an Osho member, they’re accessible to all.

Shaniwar WadaFORT

( GOOGLE MAP ; Shivaji Rd; Indian/foreigner ₹15/200, sound-and-light show ₹50/100; icon-hoursgifh9am-5.30pm)

The remains of this fortressed palace of the Peshwa rulers are located in the old part of the city. Built in 1732, Shaniwar Wada was destroyed by a fire in 1828, but the massive walls and ramparts remain, as does a mighty fortified gateway.

2Activities

Osho International Meditation ResortMEDITATION

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-66019999; www.osho.com; 17 Koregaon Park)

Indelibly linked with Pune’s identity, this iconic ashram-resort, located in a leafy, upscale northern suburb, has been drawing thousands of sanyasins (seekers) since the death of Osho in 1990. With its swimming pool, sauna and spa, ‘zennis’ and boutique guesthouse, it is, to some, the ultimate place to indulge in some luxe meditation.

Alternatively, detractors point fingers at the blatant commercialisation and high cost and accuse it of marketing a warped version of the mystic East to rich, gullible Westerners.

To make up your own mind you’ll have to cough up the (steep) registration and daily meditation fees. Tours of the facilities are no longer permitted – the only way to access Osho is to pay an initial ₹1560, which covers registration (passport required) and a mandatory on-the-spot HIV test (sterile needles used). You’ll also need two robes (one maroon and one white, ₹1000 per robe) and will have to attend a welcome session (daily at 9.30am). Note that the rules and regulations are very strict, even pedantic: swimmers are only allowed to wear, and have to pay for, Osho maroon swimwear (₹400 to ₹700) and there are mandatory (Osho maroon) clothes for the gym. Indian nationals are also lectured about behaviour (eg not hassling Western women) in special etiquette classes – female security is taken extremely seriously.

Once you’ve got all this out of the way, you can then pay for a meditation pass (₹870/1790 per day Indian/foreigner, with discounts for longer stays). Oh, that’s apart from the fee to enter the Basho Spa (where the pool, Jacuzzi, gym, saunas and tennis courts are all located), which will be a further ₹290. Cash only for day trippers.

The main centre for meditation and the nightly white-robed spiritual dance is in the Osho Auditorium (no coughing or sneezing, please). The Osho Chuang Tzu, where the guru’s ashes are kept, is also open for meditation. The commune’s ‘Multiversity’ runs a plethora of courses in meditation and other esoteric techniques.

In the evenings, as well as meditation sessions, there’s a ‘nightlife’ program, with parties, cinema, theatre and ‘creativity nights’.

Photography is not permitted anywhere in the resort. The Welcome Center is open daily from 9am to 12.30pm and 2pm to 3.30pm.

Ramamani Iyengar Memorial Yoga InstituteYOGA

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-25656134; www.bksiyengar.com; 1107 B/1 Hare Krishna Mandir Rd, Model Colony)

To attend classes at this famous institute, 7km northwest of the train station, you need to have been practising yoga for at least eight years.

OSHO GURU OF SEX

Ever tried mixing spirituality with primal instincts and garnishing with oodles of expensive trinkets? Well, Bhagwan Shree Rajneesh (1931–90) certainly did. Osho, as he preferred to be called, was one of India’s most flamboyant ‘export gurus’ to market the mystic East to the world and undoubtedly the most controversial.

Initially based in Pune, he followed no particular religion or philosophy and outraged many across the world with his advocacy of sex as a path to enlightenment. A darling of the international media, he quickly earned himself the epithet ‘sex guru’. In 1981, Rajneesh took his curious blend of Californian pop psychology and Indian mysticism to the USA, where he set up an agricultural commune in Oregon. There, his ashram’s notoriety, as well as its fleet of (material and thus valueless!) Rolls Royces grew, until raging local opposition following a bizarre, infamous food poisoning incident (designed to manipulate local elections) moved the authorities to charge Osho with immigration fraud. He was fined US$400,000 and deported.

An epic journey then began, during which Osho and his followers, in their search for a new base, were either deported from or denied entry into 21 countries. By 1987, he was back at his Pune ashram, where thousands of foreigners soon flocked for his nightly discourses and meditation sessions.

They still come from across the globe. Such is the demand for the resort’s facilities that prices are continually on the rise, with luxury being redefined every day. Interestingly, despite Osho’s discourse on how nobody should be poor, no money generated by the resort goes into helping the disadvantaged.

In recent years the Osho institute has embraced the digital age, with its online iOsho portal offering iMeditate programs, Osho radio and Osho library; subscriptions are required.

4Sleeping

Pune’s main accommodation hubs are around the train station (where budget places proliferate) and leafy Koregaon Park, where you’ll find good midrange options. Many upmarket places are on the road to the airport, 6km or so from the centre.

Hotel Surya VillaHOTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-26124501; www.hotelsuryavilla.com; 294/2 German Bakery Lane, Koregaon Park; r with/without AC from ₹2380/1690; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

The Surya’s functional, tiled rooms are well-kept and generously proportioned and, though a little spartan, they do have bathrooms with hot water, wi-fi and cable TV. It enjoys a good location on a quiet street in Koregaon Park, close to popular cafes.

Samrat HotelHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-26137964; www.thesamrathotel.com; 17 Wilson Garden; s/d from ₹1700/2100, with AC from ₹2100/2600; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

It’s not quite as grand as its fancy reception area would indicate, but with a central location just a few steps from the train station and spacious, well-maintained rooms, the 49-room Samrat represents good value. The staff is courteous and eager to please. Complimentary airport pick-up (not drop-off!) and breakfast.

Hotel LotusHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-26139701; www.hotelsuryavilla.com; Lane 5, Koregaon Park; s/d ₹1930/2260, with AC ₹2260/2860; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

Hotel Lotus is good value for the quiet, Koregaon Park location and though the rooms are not that spacious, they are light and airy, and all but four have balconies. There’s no restaurant, but they offer room service and there are plenty of good eating options close by.

icon-top-choiceoHotel SunderbanHOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-26124949; www.tghotels.com; 19 Koregaon Park; s/d without bathroom ₹1100/1430, incl breakfast from ₹4760/5950; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

Set around a manicured lawn right next to the Osho resort, this renovated art deco bungalow effortlessly combines colonial-era class with boutique appeal. Deluxe rooms in the main building sport antique furniture, while even the cheapest options are beautifully presented and spacious (though lack a private bathroom). The best-value rooms are the lawn-facing studios.

There is a yoga centre, spa and two restaurants on the premises, including highly regarded Dario’s.

Osho Meditation Resort GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-66019900; www.osho.com; Koregaon Park; s/d ₹6020/6620; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

This uberchic, 60-room place will only allow you in if you come to meditate at the Osho International Meditation Resort. The rooms and common spaces are an elegant exercise in modern minimalist aesthetics with several ultraluxe features – including Biotique amenities and purified fresh air supplied in all rooms!

5Eating

Juice WorldCAFE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2436/B East St, Camp; snacks ₹40-200, juices ₹65-300; icon-hoursgifh11am-11.30pm)

Delicious fresh fruit juices and shakes. This casual cafe with outdoor seating serves wholesome snacks such as pav bhaji (spiced vegetables and bread). On a hot day it’s impossible to walk past its fruit displays and not drop in for a drink. Try the seasonal kabuli amar (pomegranate).

Arthur's ThemeEUROPEAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-26152710; www.arthurstheme.com; 2, Vrindavan Apts, Lane No 6, Koregaon Park; mains ₹280-990; icon-hoursgifh11.30am-11.30pm; icon-wifigifW)

This eclectic European bistro has rave reviews seeping from its pores. Indeed the food, a lengthy list that includes rarely seen proteins like turkey and duck in addition to extensive choices of veg, fish, chicken and buffalo, presents a tantalising opportunity for a sophisticated curry-free evening. Most dishes fall in the ₹300 to ₹400 range, so the price is right.

German BakeryBAKERY$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; North Main Rd, Koregaon Park; cakes ₹100-140, mains ₹90-380; icon-hoursgifh7am-11pm; icon-wifigifW)

A Pune institution famous for its traveller-geared grub, including omelettes, cooked breakfasts, Greek salads, cappuccinos and lots of sweet treats (try the mango cheesecake). Located on a very busy traffic-plagued corner. A fatal terrorist attack took place here in 2010 – a painful memory in this peace-loving city.

Prem’sMULTICUISINE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/PremsResto.Pune; North Main Rd, Koregaon Park; mains ₹60-550; icon-hoursgifh8am-12.15am; icon-wifigifW)

In a quiet, tree-canopied courtyard, Prem’s is perfect for a lazy, beery daytime drinking session on the breezy patio, with some decent local craft beers to try, perhaps with one of its famous sizzlers. The morning after? Well, Prem’s is the logical choice again, with the city’s best breakfast selection: eggs Benedict with smoked salmon (₹160), pancakes and detox shots.

Its sister bar next door, Swig, is its wilder counterpart, quite a happy hour hot spot.

icon-top-choiceoMalaka SpiceASIAN$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.malakaspice.com; Lane 5, North Main Rd, Koregaon Park; mains ₹305-780; icon-hoursgifh11.30am-midnight; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

Maharashtra's shining culinary moment is a fury of Southeast Asian fantasticness; trying to choose one dish among the delectable stir-fries, noodles and curries – all strong on seafood, vegetarian options, chicken, duck and mutton – is futile. Dine alfresco under colourful tree lights and relish the spicy and intricate flavour cavalcade from star chefs reared on a Slow Food, stay-local philosophy.

Many of their ingredients come from their own farm as well. Reserve ahead and starve yourself all day in preparation!

Dario’sITALIAN$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.darios.in; Hotel Sunderban, 19 Koregaon Park; mains ₹480-610, pizza ₹260-680; icon-hoursgifh8am-11.30pm)

At the rear of Hotel Sunderban, this Italian-run veg paradise is one of Pune's most elegant dining experiences, providing you plant yourself on the gorgeous and intimate courtyard for an alfresco meal. Homemade pastas, very good pizzas and fine salads (try the Bosco; ₹480), including wholewheat, vegan and gluten-free options, fill the extensive menu of delectable homesick remedies.

TRANSIT HUB: MAHABALESHWAR

Once a summer capital under the British, today the best thing about the hill station of Mahabaleshwar (1327m) is the jaw-dropping mountain scenery on the road to get here. It's an overdeveloped mess, tainted by an ugly building boom and traffic chaos as tourists attempt a mad dash to tick off its viewpoints and falls. There's no compelling reason to visit – it's basically one big bustling bazaar surrounded by resorts and views – though the town can be used as a base to visit the impressive Pratapgad Fort or Kass Plateau of Flowers, both nearby.

Forget about coming during the monsoon when the whole town virtually shuts down (and an unbelievable 6m of rain falls). If you have an hour or so to kill between buses, budget-friendly Nature Care Spa ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%7066327423; Hotel Shreyas, opposite ST Bus Stand; massages from ₹1899; icon-hoursgifh8am-8pm), across the street from the bus stand at Hotel Shreyas, hits the spot in a place like Mahabaleshwar. And don't miss Grapevine ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02168-261100; Masjid Rd; mains ₹160-700; icon-hoursgifh9.30am-3pm & 5-10pm) – its gourmet Parsi cuisine and Maharashtran wine are a godsend in Mahabaleshwar.

From Mahabaleshwar bus stand, state buses leave regularly for Pune (non-AC ₹180, four hours, hourly 7.30am to 6.30pm), Kohlapur (non-AC ₹265, 5½ hours, hourly from 8am) and Satara (non-AC ₹57, two hours, hourly 6am to 7pm). Seven daily buses head to Mumbai Central between 9am and 9.30pm (non-AC ₹400, seven hours) and one ordinary bus to Goa (non-AC ₹423, 12 hours, 8am).

RB Travels, located on a corner between an alley shortcut to Masjid Rd and the bazaar (across from Meghdoot restaurant), books luxury coaches to Goa (non-AC seater/Volvo AC sleeper ₹850/1800, 12 hours). You will depart from the bazaar in a car at 7.30pm to Surur Phata junction, 42km away, to wait for the bus on the way from Pune. Transport to Mumbai (Volvo AC seater/sleeper ₹500/600, six hours, noon and 9pm) and Pune (Volvo AC seater ₹375, 3½ hours, 11.30am) is available as well.

For the Pratapgad Fort, a state bus (₹130 return, one hour, 9.15am) does a daily round-trip, with a waiting time of around one hour; taxi drivers charge a fixed ₹1000 return.

6Drinking & Nightlife

icon-top-choiceoIndependence Brewing CompanyCRAFT BEER

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-66448308; www.independencebrewco.com; Zero One, 79/1, Pingle Vasti, Mundhwa Rd, Mundhwa; pints from ₹300)

Reserve a table in the outstanding beer garden at this industrially hip craft brewery – Pune's finest – and you'll swear you're in California. The seven taps change often – Four Grain saison, Method to Madness IPA and the chocolate-bomb Ixcacao porter are standouts – and the funky-flavoured, Indian-Asian bar grub means it's very easy to settle in for the night.

High Spirits CafeBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.dahigh.com; 35A/1, North Main Rd, Mundhwa; cocktails ₹300-575; icon-hoursgifh8-11.45pm)

Pune's most happening evenings take place in this artistically inclined bar with a ramshackle, good-time outdoor patio. Every night something cool is on, such as comedy Wednesdays, disco Saturdays and an unskippable Sunday barbecue (1.30pm to 4.30pm). The crowd, stretching from starving artists to wayward soul-searchers to 40-something trendsetters, goes bananas. No cover!

3Entertainment

icon-top-choiceoShisha CafeJAZZ

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-26880050; www.facebook.com/shishajazzcafe; ABC Farms, Mundhwa; Thu ₹250)

It's a magical atmosphere anytime, but live jazz Thursday nights at alfresco Shisha are a Pune institution. Snuggle up on Iranian-style lounges downstairs or reserve a seat at a marble table under hanging Arabian carpets in the elevated main stage area. It's inside a nightlife enclave in Mundhwa called ABC Farms.

7Shopping

FabindiaCLOTHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.fabindia.com; Sakar 10, Sassoon Rd; icon-hoursgifh10.30am-8.30pm)

Sells Indian saris, silks and cottons, as well as linen shirts for men, and diverse accessories including bags and jewellery.

8Information

For exchange services, there is a Thomas Cook branch on General Thimmaya Rd. There are dozens of ATMs spread through the city and at the train station.

Citibank ATM ( GOOGLE MAP ; Tulsidas Appartment, N Main Rd)

HDFC ATM ( GOOGLE MAP ; East St)

HSBC ATM ( GOOGLE MAP ; Bund Garden Rd)

You’ll find several internet cafes along Pune’s main thoroughfares. Wi-fi is common in trendier bars and restaurants and most hotels.

Main Post OfficePOST

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.indiapost.gov.in; Sadhu Vaswani Path; icon-hoursgifh10am-6pm Mon-Sat)

MTDC Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-26128169; www.maharashtratourism.gov.in; I Block, Central Bldg, Dr Annie Besant Rd; icon-hoursgifh10am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun, closed 2nd & 4th Sat)

Buried in a government complex south of the train station.

Thomas CookEXCHANGE

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-66007903; www.thomascook.in; Thackers House, 2418 General Thimmaya Rd; icon-hoursgifh9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat)

Cashes travellers cheques and exchanges foreign currency.

Yatra.comTRAVEL AGENCY

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-65007605; www.yatra.com; Koregaon Park Rd; icon-hoursgifh10am-7pm Mon-Sat)

The city office of the reputed internet ticketing company.

8Getting There & Away

Air

A flashy new international airport is planned but infighting over the exact location was stalling the project at time of writing. Until then, airlines fly daily from Pune International Airport (PNQ; GOOGLE MAP ; New Airport Road, Mhada Colony, Lohgaon) to Mumbai, Delhi, Jaipur, Bengaluru (Bangalore), Nagpur, Goa, and Chennai, among others.

Bus

Pune has three bus stands. Buses leave the Pune train station stand ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-26126218) for Belgaum (₹700, seven hours, 11pm), Goa (₹600 to ₹1000, 10 hours, 6.30pm and 7.30pm), Kolhapur (₹400, six hours, hourly 5.30am to 11.30pm), Lonavla (₹62, hourly), Mahabaleshwar (₹230, four hours, hourly 5.30am to 5.30pm) and Mumbai's Dadar TT Circle station (₹266 to ₹531, four hours, every 15 minutes).

From the Shivaji Nagar bus stand ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-24431240; Shivajinagar Railway Station Rd), air-con buses go to Aurangabad (from ₹661, five to six hours, hourly 6am to 11.30pm), Nasik (from ₹611, every 20 minutes, 6am to 12.30am) and Mumbai (₹650, frequent). Non-AC buses also go to Mahabaleshwar (₹230, four hours, 6.15am, 8.30am and 9.30am).

Ticket agents selling private long-distance bus tickets are across the street from Shivaji Nagar station – try Sana Travels ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%8888808984; 2, Sita Park, Shivajinagar). Destinations (all AC sleepers) include Bengaluru (₹1050, 14 hours, hourly 1pm to 10pm), Hyderabad (₹500, 10 hours, hourly 7pm to 1am), Goa (₹1000, 10 hours, 7pm and 10pm), Mangalore (₹1500, 14 hours, 6pm and 10pm) and Nagpur (₹800, 14 hours, hourly 4am to 10pm). Buses for Bengaluru and Mangalore as well as Sinhagad leave from the Swargate bus stand ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-24441591; Satara Rd).

Taxi

Shared taxis (up to four passengers) link Pune with Mumbai airport around the clock. They leave from the taxi stand ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%02026121090) in front of Pune train station (per seat ₹400 to ₹475, 2½ hours). To rent a car and driver try Simran Travels ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-26153222; www.mumbaiairportcab.com; 1st fl, Madhuban Bldg, Lane No 5, Koregaon Park; icon-hoursgifh24hr).

Train

Pune train station (sometimes called Pune Junction) is in the heart of the city on HH Prince Aga Khan Rd. There are very regular, roughly hourly services to Mumbai and good links to cities including Delhi, Chennai and Hyderabad.

Major Trains from Pune

Destination Train No & Name Fare (₹) Duration (hr) Departure
Bengaluru 11301 Udyan Express 460/1785 21 11.45am
Chennai 12163 Chennai Express 525/1980 19½ 12.10am
Delhi 11077 Jhelum Express 625/2435 27½ 5.20pm
Hyderabad 17031 Hyderabad Express 340/1310 13½ 4.35pm
Mumbai CST 12124 Deccan Queen 115/395 7.15am

Express fares are sleeper/2AC; Deccan Queen fares are 2nd class/AC chair.

8Getting Around

The modern airport is 8km northeast of the city. From Koregaon Park an autorickshaw costs about ₹150 and a taxi around ₹200, but an UberGo at nonsurge pricing is only around ₹115. Autorickshaws can be found everywhere; a trip from the train station to Koregaon Park costs about ₹50 (more at night).

Around Pune

Sinhagad

The ruined Sinhagad (Lion Fort; GOOGLE MAP ; icon-hoursgifhdawn-dusk), about 24km southwest of Pune, was wrested by Maratha leader Shivaji from the Bijapur kings in 1670. In the epic battle (where he lost his son Sambhaji), Shivaji is said to have used monitor lizards yoked with ropes to scale the fort’s craggy walls. Today, it’s in a poor state, but worth visiting for the sweeping views and opportunity to hike in the hills. Bus 50 runs frequently to Donje (Golewadi) village from Swargate (₹30, 45 minutes), from where it's a 4km hike if you want to walk or catch a shared 4WD (₹50) that can cart you 10km to the base of the summit.

Shivneri

Situated 90km northwest of Pune, above the village of Junnar, Shivneri Fort ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-hoursgifhdawn-dusk) holds the distinction of being the birthplace of Shivaji. Within the ramparts of this ruined fort are the old royal stables, a mosque dating back to the Mughal era and several rock-cut reservoirs. The most important structure is Shivkunj, the pavilion in which Shivaji was born.

About 8km from Shivneri, on the other side of Junnar, is an interesting group of Hinayana Buddhist caves called Lenyadri ( GOOGLE MAP ; Indian/foreigner ₹15/200; icon-hoursgifh8am-6pm). Of the 27 caves, cave 7 is the most impressive and, interestingly, houses an image of the Hindu god Ganesh.

Views from both monuments are spectacular.

There are seven or so buses per day (₹88, two hours) connecting Pune’s Shivaji Nagar terminus with Junnar (a day cab from Pune will cost about ₹2625). From Junnar's bus stand, a return rickshaw including one hour's wait time runs ₹200 to Shivneri and ₹300 to Lenyadri.

DON'T MISS

PRATAPGAD FORT

Pratapgad Fort (icon-hoursgifh9am-dusk), built by Shivaji in 1656 (and still owned by his descendants), straddles a high mountain ridge 24km northwest of the town of Mahabaleshwar. In 1659, Shivaji agreed to meet Bijapuri General Afzal Khan here in an attempt to end a stalemate. Despite a no-arms agreement, Shivaji, upon greeting Khan, disembowelled his enemy with a set of iron baghnakh (tiger’s claws). Khan’s tomb (out of bounds) marks the site of this painful encounter at the base of the fort. Pratapgad is reached by a 500-step climb that affords brilliant views.

From the bus stand in Mahabaleshwar, a state bus tour (₹165 return, one hour, 9.30am) does a daily shuttle to the fort, with a waiting time of around one hour. Taxi drivers in Mahabaleshwar charge a fixed ₹1000 for the return trip, including one hour's waiting time.

Kolhapur

icon-phonegif%0231 / Pop 561,300 / Elev 550m

A little-visited city, Kolhapur is the perfect place to get intimate with the flamboyant side of India. Only a few hours from Goa, this historic settlement boasts an intensely fascinating temple complex. In August Kolhapur is at its vibrant best when Naag Panchami, a snake-worshipping festival, is held in tandem with one at Pune. Gastronomes take note: the town is also the birthplace of the famed, spicy Kolhapuri cuisine, especially chicken and mutton dishes.

1Sights

The atmospheric old town quarter around the Mahalaxmi Temple and Old Palace has a huge (traffic-free) plaza and is accessed by a monumental gateway.

icon-top-choiceoShree Chhatrapati Shahu MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; Indian/foreigner ₹25/80; icon-hoursgifh9.15am-5.30pm)

‘Bizarre’ takes on a whole new meaning at this ‘new’ palace, an Indo-Saracenic behemoth designed by British architect ‘Mad’ Charles Mant for the Kolhapur kings in 1884. The madcap museum is a maze of countless trophies from the kings’ trigger-happy jungle safaris, including walking sticks made from leopard vertebrae and ashtrays fashioned out of tiger skulls and rhino feet. The armoury houses enough weapons to stage a minicoup. The horror-house effect is brought full circle by the taxidermy section.

Don’t miss the highly ornate Durbar Hall, where the rulers held court sessions, and dotted around the palace you’ll find dozens of portraits of the portly maharajas to admire. Photography is prohibited inside.

It's located about 2.5km north of the train station. A rickshaw from the train station/bus stand will cost ₹35/50.

icon-top-choiceoMahalaxmi TempleHINDU TEMPLE

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-hoursgifh3am-11pm)

One of Maharastra’s most important and vibrant places of worship, the Mahalaxmi Temple is dedicated to Amba Bai (Mother Goddess). The temple’s origins date back to AD 10, but much of the present structure is from the 18th century. It draws an unceasing tide of humanity, as pilgrims press to enter the holy inner sanctuary and bands of musicians and worshippers chant devotions. Non-Hindus are welcome and it’s a fantastic place for people-watching.

Motibag ThalimTRAINING CENTRE

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-hoursgifh4am-4pm)

Kolhapur is famed for the calibre of its Kushti wrestlers and at the Motibag Thalim you can watch young athletes train in an earthen pit. The akhara (training ground) is reached through a low doorway and passage to the left of the entrance to Bhavani Mandap (ask for directions). You are free to walk in and watch, as long as you don’t mind the sight of sweaty, seminaked men and the stench of urine emanating from the loos.

4Sleeping & Eating

Hotel K TreeHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0231-2526990; www.hotelktree.com; 517E, Plot 65, Shivaji Park; s/d incl breakfast from ₹3330/3700; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

With high service standards and 26 very inviting modish rooms, this newer hotel is fine value and wildy popular with Indians for its 15-item buffet breakfast. It's a toss up between the clandestine bathrooms in deluxe rooms or elevated Asian-style beds in executive rooms.

Hotel PavillionHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0231-2652751; www.hotelpavillion.co.in; 392E Assembly Rd, Shaupuri; s/d incl breakfast ₹1850/2080, with AC from ₹2260/2500; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifi)

Located at the far end of a leafy park-cum-office-area, this hotel guarantees a peaceful stay, occasionally uninspired bathrooms aside. Its large, well-equipped rooms are perhaps a little dated, but many have windows that open out to delightful views of seasonal blossoms. Book room 101 to catch the lobby-only wi-fi signal in-room.

Chorage MisalINDIAN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; Mahadwar Rd, near Gujri Corners; mains ₹40; icon-hoursgifh8.30am-8pm)

Near Mahalaxmi Temple, this hole-in-the-wall misal (spicy curry made from moth bean sprouts) joint has been at it since 1963 and is the spiciest of the city's classic joints. Rajesh is the third generation behind the recipe and acts as a one-man show. There's no English sign. It's directly to the right of the beautiful Jain temple with the Coca-Cola signage.

icon-top-choiceoDehaatiINDIAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; Ayodha Park, Old Pune-Bangalore Hwy, Nimbalkar Colony; thalis ₹230-320; icon-hoursgifh12.30-3.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm)

The city's Kolhapuri thali specialist. Meals come in a variety of mutton variations as well as chicken and veg. The vibrant curries, the spiced-up dhal, the rich aakkha masoor (Kolhapuri-style whole lentil curry), the intricate tambda rassa (spicy red mutton curry), the perfectly flaky chapatis – it's all delicious.

Little ItalyITALIAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0231-2537133; www.littleitaly.in; 517 A2 Shivaji Park; pizza ₹225-445, pasta ₹215-365; icon-hoursgifh11.30am-10pm)

If you’ve been clocking up some hard yards on India’s roads, this authentic, professionally run restaurant is just the place to sustain you for the next trip. All the flavours are to savour, with a delicious, veg-only menu of antipasti, thin-crust pizzas (from a wood-fired oven), al dente pasta and a great Indian-heavy wine list (by the glass available).

Don’t pass on the desserts, particularly the panna cotta.

8Information

ICICI Bank ATMATM

( GOOGLE MAP ; Near Mahalaxmi Mandir)

Located next to Mahalaxmi Temple.

MTDC Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0231-2652935; www.maharashtratourism.gov.in; 254B Udyog Bhavan, Assembly Rd; icon-hoursgifh10am-5.30pm Mon-Sat)

Located behind the Collector’s Office near Hotel Pavillion. At the time of research, it had opened a far more convenient booth ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0231-2652935; www.maharashtratourism.gov.in; Near Mahalaxmi Mandir) near Mahalaxmi Mandir on a trial basis.

State Bank of India ATMATM

( GOOGLE MAP ; Near Hotel Pavillion)

Handy ATM across the street from Hotel Pavillion.

8Getting There & Around

Bus

From the Kolhapur bus stand ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0231-2650620; Benadikar Path, Shahupur), services head regularly to Pune (non-AC from ₹396, five hours, hourly 5am to 11pm), Ratnagiri (ordinary/semideluxe ₹177/199, 4½ hours, every 30 minutes 5am to 1am), five ordinary-only buses to Malvan (₹201, five hours, 5.15am, 6.5am, noon, 1.30pm and 5pm) and 12 daily buses to Mumbai (ordinary/semideluxe ₹480/600, 10 hours). There is a reservation counter for all buses.

The best private bus agents gather at the Royal Plaza building at Dabholkar Corner, 300m north of the bus stand. Paulo Travels ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0231-6681812; www.paulotravels.com; B/22, Royal Plaza, Dhabolkar Cnr) heads to Goa (Volvo AC seater/sleeper from ₹500/600, eight hours, 9am, noon, 2am, 3am, 4am, 5am and 6am). Neeta Travels ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0231-3290061; www.neetabus.in; B/16, Royal Plaza, Dabholkar Cnr) is a good bet for overnight air-con services heading to Mumbai (Volvo AC sleeper from ₹850, nine hours, 5pm, 9.45pm and 10.45pm) and Pune (Volvo AC seater from ₹350, five hours, 7am, 9am, 4pm, 5pm, 8pm and 11.30pm).

Train

The train station, known as Chattrapati Shahu Maharaj Terminus, is 10 minutes’ walk west of the bus stand. Three daily expresses, including the 10.50pm Sahyadri Express, go to Mumbai (sleeper/2AC ₹338/1241, 13 hours, 10.50pm) via Pune (₹243/876, eight hours). The Rani Chennama Express makes the long voyage to Bengaluru (₹433/1636, 17½ hours, 2.05pm). There are no direct trains to Goa.

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