Mumbai (Bombay)
Mumbai (Bombay)
%022 /
Pop 21.1 million
Why Go?
Mumbai, formerly Bombay, is big. It’s full of dreamers and hard-labourers, starlets and gangsters, stray dogs and exotic birds, artists and servants, fisherfolk and crorepatis (millionaires), and lots and lots of people. It has India’s most prolific film industry, some of Asia’s biggest slums (as well as the world’s most expensive home) and the largest tropical forest in an urban zone. Mumbai is India’s financial powerhouse, fashion epicentre and a pulse point of religious tension.
If Mumbai is your introduction to India, prepare yourself. The city isn’t a threatening place but its furious energy, limited public transport and punishing pollution make it challenging for visitors. The heart of the city contains some of the grandest colonial-era architecture on the planet but explore a little more and you’ll uncover unique bazaars, hidden temples, hipster enclaves and India’s premier restaurants and nightlife.
When to Go
ADec & Jan The very best, least sticky weather.
AAug & Sep Mumbai goes Ganesh-crazy during its most exciting festival, Ganesh Chaturthi.
AOct–Apr There’s very little rain, post-monsoon; the best time of year for festivals.
Mumbai (Bombay) Highlights
1 Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus Marvelling at the magnificence of Mumbai’s colonial-era architecture, including this monumental train station.
2 Bazaars Investigating the labyrinthine lanes and stalls in the ancient bazaar district.
3 Restaurants Dining like a maharaja at one of India’s best restaurants, such as Peshawri.
4 Iskcon Temple Feeling the love with the Krishna crowd at this unique temple.
5 Dharavi Slum Taking a tour through the self-sufficient world of Asia’s largest shantytown.
6 Taj Mahal Palace, Mumbai Sleeping at one of the world’s most iconic hotels, or having a drink at its bar, Mumbai’s first.
7 Dr Bhau Daji Lad Mumbai City Museum Ogling this museum's gorgeous Renaissance revival interiors.
8 Elephanta Island Beholding the commanding triple-headed Shiva on this island in Mumbai Harbour.
9 Girgaum Chowpatty Catching the sea breeze among playing kids, big balloons and a hot-pink sunset.
History
Koli fisherfolk have inhabited the seven islands that form Mumbai from as far back as the 2nd century BC. Remnants of this culture remain huddled along the city shoreline today. A succession of Hindu dynasties held sway over the islands from the 6th century AD until the Muslim Sultans of Gujarat annexed the area in the 14th century, eventually ceding it to Portugal in 1534. The only memorable contribution the Portuguese made to the area was christening it Bom Bahai. They handed control to the English government in 1665, which leased the islands to the East India Company.
Bombay flourished as a trading port. The city’s fort was completed in the 1720s, and a century later ambitious land reclamation projects joined the islands into today’s single landmass. The city continued to grow, and in the 19th century the fort walls were dismantled and massive building works transformed the city in grand colonial style. When Bombay became the principal supplier of cotton to Britain during the American Civil War, the population soared and trade boomed as money flooded into the city.
Bombay was a major player in the Independence movement, and the Quit India campaign was launched here in 1942 by Mahatma Gandhi. The city became capital of the Bombay presidency after Independence, but in 1960 Maharashtra and Gujarat were divided along linguistic lines – and Bombay became the capital of Maharashtra.
The rise of the pro-Marathi, pro-Hindu regionalist movement in the 1980s, spearheaded by the Shiv Sena (literally ‘Shivaji’s Army’), shattered the city’s multicultural mould when it was accused of actively discriminating against Muslims and non-Maharashtrians. Communalist tensions increased, and the city’s cosmopolitan self-image took a battering when 900 people were killed in riots in late 1992 and 1993. The riots were followed by a dozen retaliatory bombings which killed 257 people and damaged the Bombay Stock Exchange.
Shiv Sena’s influence saw the names of many streets and public buildings – as well as the city itself – changed from their colonial monikers. In 1996 the city officially became Mumbai (derived from the Hindu goddess Mumba). The airport, Victoria Terminus and Prince of Wales Museum were all renamed after Chhatrapati Shivaji, the great Maratha leader.
Religious tensions deepened and became intertwined with national religious conflicts and India’s relations with Pakistan. A series of bomb attacks on trains killed over 200 in July 2006. Then, in November 2008, a coordinated series of devastating attacks (by Pakistani gunmen) targeted landmark buildings across the city, as the Taj Mahal Palace hotel burned, passengers were gunned down inside the Chhatrapati Shivaji railway station and 10 killed inside the Leopold Cafe backpacker haunt.
In late 2012, when the Sena’s charismatic founder Bal Thackeray died (500,000 attended his funeral), the Shiv Sena mission begin to falter, and in the 2014 assembly elections, President Modi’s BJP became the largest party in Mumbai.
Mumbaikars are a resilient bunch. Increased security is very much part of everyday life today and the city’s status as the engine room of the Indian economy remains unchallenged. However, Mumbai politicians certainly have their work cut out, with the megacity’s feeble public transport, gridlocked streets, pollution and housing crisis all in desperate need of attention.
1Sights
Mumbai is an island connected by bridges to the mainland. The city’s commercial and cultural centre is at the southern, claw-shaped end of the island known as South Mumbai. The southernmost peninsula is Colaba, traditionally the travellers’ nerve centre, with many of the major attractions.
Directly north of Colaba is the busy commercial area known as Fort, where the British fort once stood. This part of the city is bordered on the west by a series of interconnected grassy areas known as maidans (pronounced may-dahns).
Continuing north you enter ‘the suburbs’, which contain the airport and many of Mumbai’s best restaurants, shops and nightspots. The upmarket districts of Bandra, Juhu and Lower Parel are key areas (the bohemians and hippies that used to claim Bandra have now moved further north to Andheri West and Vesova).
Colaba
Along the city’s southernmost peninsula, Colaba is a bustling district packed with elegant art deco and colonial-era mansions, budget-to-midrange lodgings, bars and restaurants, street stalls and a fisherman’s quarter. Colaba Causeway (Shahid Bhagat Singh Marg) dissects the district.
If you’re here in August, look out for the Koli festival Nariyal Poornima, which is big in Colaba.
Colaba
1Top Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
5Eating
6Drinking & Nightlife
3Entertainment
8Information
Transport
oTaj Mahal
Palace, MumbaiLANDMARK
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; https://taj.tajhotels.com; Apollo Bunder)
Mumbai’s most famous landmark, this stunning hotel is a fairy-tale blend of Islamic and Renaissance styles, and India’s second-most photographed monument. It was built in 1903 by the Parsi industrialist JN Tata, supposedly after he was refused entry to nearby European hotels on account of being ‘a native’. Dozens were killed inside the hotel when it was targeted during the 2008 terrorist attacks, and images of its burning facade were beamed worldwide. The fully restored hotel reopened on Independence Day 2010.
Much more than an iconic building, the Taj’s history is intrinsically linked with the nation: it was the first hotel in India to employ women, the first to have electricity (and fans), and it also housed freedom-fighters (for no charge) during the struggle for independence.
Today the Taj fronts the harbour and Gateway of India, but it was originally designed to face the city (the entrance has been changed).
Gateway of IndiaMONUMENT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
This bold basalt arch of colonial triumph faces out to Mumbai Harbour from the tip of Apollo Bunder. Incorporating Islamic styles of 16th-century Gujarat, it was built to commemorate the 1911 royal visit of King George V, but wasn’t completed until 1924. Ironically, the British builders of the gateway used it just 24 years later to parade the last British regiment as India marched towards independence.
These days, the gateway is a favourite gathering spot for locals and a top place for people-watching. Giant-balloon sellers, photographers, vendors making bhelpuri (puffed rice tossed with fried rounds of dough, lentils, onions, herbs and chutneys) and touts rub shoulders with locals and tourists, creating all the hubbub of a bazaar. In February/March they are joined by classical dancers and musicians who perform during the Elephanta Festival.
Boats depart from the gateway’s wharves for Elephanta Island.
Sassoon DockWATERFRONT
( GOOGLE MAP )
Sassoon Dock is a scene of intense and pungent activity at dawn (around 5am) when colourfully clad Koli fisherfolk sort the catch unloaded from fishing boats at the quay. The fish drying in the sun are bombil, used in the dish Bombay duck. Photography at the dock is prohibited.
MUMBAI IN ...
Two Days
Begin at one of Mumbai's architectural masterpieces, the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya museum, before grabbing lunch Gujarati-style at Samrat.
In the afternoon head to Colaba and tour the city’s iconic sights, the Gateway of India and Taj Mahal Palace hotel. That evening, fine dine at Indigo or chow down at Bademiya Seekh Kebab Stall, followed by cocktails at hip Colaba Social.
The next day, take in the grandaddy of Mumbai’s colonial-era giants, Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus; and Crawford Market and its maze of bazaars, hidden temples and unique street life. Lunch at Revival, then kill the afternoon wandering the tiny lanes of Khotachiwadi, followed by beach bhelpuri at Girgaum Chowpatty. Need a drink? Hip nightlife hub Lower Parel beckons for dinner and craft beers at White Owl or Woodside Inn.
Four Days
Sail to Unesco-listed Elephanta Island, returning for lunch in artsy Kala Ghoda at Burma Burma. In the evening, head north for exquisite seafood at Bastian, followed by seriously happening bar action in Bandra.
Spend your last day visiting the Mahalaxmi Dhobi Ghat, Mahalaxmi Temple and Haji Ali Dargah; or Sanjay Gandhi National Park for a peaceful walk in the woods. Call it a night after exploring modern Indian fare at Bombay Canteen or Masala Library.
Fort Area & Churchgate
Lined up in a row and vying for your attention with aristocratic pomp, many of Mumbai’s majestic Victorian buildings pose on the edge of Oval Maidan. This land, and the Cross and Azad Maidans immediately to the north, was on the oceanfront in those days, and this series of grandiose structures faced west directly to the Arabian Sea.
Kala Ghoda, or ‘Black Horse’, is a hip, atmospheric sub-neighbourhood of Fort just north of Colaba. It contains many of Mumbai’s museums, galleries and design boutiques alongside a wealth of colonial-era buildings and some of the city’s best restaurants and cafes.
Fort Area & Churchgate
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
5Eating
3Entertainment
7Shopping
8Information
Transport
oChhatrapati
Shivaji TerminusHISTORIC
BUILDING
(Victoria Terminus; MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Imposing, exuberant and overflowing with people, this monumental train station is the city’s most extravagant Gothic building and an aphorism for colonial-era India. It’s a meringue of Victorian, Hindu and Islamic styles whipped into an imposing Daliesque structure of buttresses, domes, turrets, spires and stained glass.
Some of the architectural detail is incredible, with dog-faced gargoyles adorning the magnificent central tower and peacock-filled windows above the central courtyard. Designed by Frederick Stevens, it was completed in 1887, 34 years after the first train in India left this site.
Officially renamed Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (CST) in 1998, it’s still better known locally as VT. Sadly, its interior is far less impressive, with ugly modern additions and a neglected air – stray dogs roam around the ticket offices – despite the structure’s Unesco World Heritage Site status.
oChhatrapati
Shivaji Maharaj Vastu SangrahalayaMUSEUM
(Prince of
Wales Museum;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; www.csmvs.in; 159-161
Mahatma Gandhi Rd, Fort;
Indian/foreigner ₹70/500,
mobile/camera ₹50/100;
h10.15am-6pm)
Mumbai’s biggest and best museum displays a mix of India-wide exhibits. The domed behemoth, an intriguing hodgepodge of Islamic, Hindu and British architecture, is a flamboyant Indo-Saracenic design by George Wittet (who also designed the Gateway of India). Its vast collection includes impressive Hindu and Buddhist sculpture, terracotta figurines from the Indus Valley, Indian miniature paintings and some particularly vicious-looking weaponry.
Good information is provided in English, and audioguides are available in seven languages. Five of the galleries are air-conditioned, offering a welcome relief from the summer heat. For a quick historical overview of Mumbai, the new 20-minute Mumbai Experience (Indian/foreigner ₹40/50) is shown in English five times per day. There’s a fine cafeteria at the entrance and the museum shop is also excellent.
High CourtHISTORIC BUILDING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; Eldon
Rd; h10.45am-2pm
& 2.45-5pm Mon-Fri)
A hive of daily activity, packed with judges, barristers and other cogs in the Indian justice system, the High Court is an elegant 1848 neo-Gothic building. The design was inspired by a German castle and was obviously intended to dispel any doubts about the authority of the justice dispensed inside.
Keneseth Eliyahoo SynagogueSYNAGOGUE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; Dr VB Gandhi
Marg, Kala Ghoda;
camera/video
₹100/500; h11am-5pm
Sun-Thu)
Built in 1884, this unmistakable sky-blue synagogue still functions and is tenderly maintained by the city’s dwindling Jewish community. It’s protected by very heavy security, but the caretaker is welcoming (and will point out a photo of Madonna, who dropped by in 2008). Bring a copy of your passport.
Marine DriveWATERFRONT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Netaji Subhashchandra Bose Rd)
Built on reclaimed land in 1920, Marine Dr arcs along the shore of the Arabian Sea from Nariman Point past Girgaum Chowpatty and continues to the foot of Malabar Hill. Lined with flaking art deco apartments, it’s one of Mumbai’s most popular promenades and sunset-watching spots. Its twinkling night-time lights have earned it the nickname ‘the Queen’s Necklace’.
University of MumbaiHISTORIC BUILDING
(Bombay University; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Bhaurao Patil Marg)
Looking like a 15th-century French-Gothic mansion plopped incongruously among Mumbai’s palm trees, this structure was designed by Gilbert Scott of London’s St Pancras train station fame. There’s an exquisite University Library and Convocation Hall, as well as the 84m-high Rajabai Clock Tower ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), decorated with detailed carvings. Since the 2008 terror attacks there’s no public access to the grounds, but it’s still well worth admiring from the street.
Jehangir Art GalleryGALLERY
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; www.jehangirartgallery.com;
161B Mahatma Gandhi Rd, Kala
Ghoda; h11am-7pm)
F
Renovated in recent years, this excellent gallery hosts exhibitions of all types of visual arts by Mumbaikar, national and international artists.
National Gallery of Modern ArtMUSEUM
(NGMA;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; www.ngmaindia.gov.in;
Mahatma Gandhi Rd; Indian/foreigner ₹20/500; h11am-6pm
Tue-Sun)
Well-curated shows of Indian and international artists in a bright and spacious five-floor exhibition space.
DAG ModernGALLERY
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
www.dagmodern.com; 58 Dr VB
Gandhi Marg, Kala Ghoda;
h11am-7pm
Mon-Sat)F
This gallery is spread over four floors of a beautifully restored cream-coloured colonial-era structure. With well-curated exhibitions it showcases important modern Indian art from its extensive collection.
St Thomas’ CathedralCHURCH
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; Veer Nariman
Rd, Churchgate;
h7am-6pm)
This charming cathedral, begun in 1672 and finished in 1718, is the oldest British-era building standing in Mumbai and the city's first Anglican church: it was once the eastern gateway of the East India Company’s fort (the ‘Churchgate’). The cathedral is a marriage of Byzantine and colonial-era architecture, and its airy interior is full of grandiose colonial memorials.
WORTH A TRIP
SANJAY GHANDI NATIONAL PARK
Within 1½ hours of Mumbai's teeming
metropolis is 104 sq km of protected tropical forest at
Sanjay Gandhi National Park (
GOOGLE MAP ; %022-28868686; https://sgnp.maharashtra.gov.in;
Borivali; adult/child
₹44/23, vehicle ₹105, safari admission ₹50; h7.30am-6pm
Tue-Sun, last entry 4pm). Bright flora, birds, butterflies and
leopards replace pollution and concrete, surrounded by forested
hills on the city’s northern edge. Urban development exists on the
park's fringes, but the heart of the park is very peaceful.
The easiest way to take a walk in the
woods is by going with Bombay
Natural History Society – many of the park's highlights require
advanced permission, which BNHS takes care of for you. You might
see Shilonda waterfall, Vihar and Tulsi lakes or even the park's
highest point, Jambol Mal. Kanheri Caves
(
GOOGLE MAP ;
Indian/foreigner
₹15/200; h9am-5pm), a set of 109 dwellings and monastic
structures for Buddhist monks 6km inside the park, is the most
intriguing option. From the 1st century BC, the caves were
developed over 1000 years as part of a sprawling monastic
university complex. Avoid the zoo-like lion and tiger ‘safari’ as
the animals are in cages and enclosures. October to April is the
best time to see birds, and August to November to see butterflies.
At time of research a huge restoration project – a new lakeside
promenade, tourist huts, mangrove walkway, taxidermy gallery,
nature trails and nature interpretation centres – had been approved
by the Maharashtra Forest Department.
An information centre with a small exhibition on the park’s wildlife is inside the park’s main northern entrance. The nearest station is Borivali, served by trains on the Western Railway line from Churchgate station (₹15 to ₹140, 30 minutes, frequent).
Kalbadevi to Mahalaxmi
oDr Bhau Daji Lad
Mumbai City MuseumMUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; www.bdlmuseum.org; Dr Babasaheb
Ambedkar Rd;
Indian/foreigner
₹10/100; h10am-6pm
Thu-Tue)
This gorgeous museum, built in Renaissance revival style in 1872 as the Victoria & Albert Museum, contains 3500-plus objects centring on Mumbai’s history – photography, maps, textiles, books, manuscripts, Bidriware, lacquerware, weaponry and exquisite pottery. The landmark building was renovated in 2008, with its Minton tile floors, gilded ceiling mouldings, ornate columns, chandeliers and staircases all gloriously restored.
Haji Ali DargahMOSQUE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.hajialidargah.in; off V Desai Chowk)
Floating like a sacred mirage off the coast, this Indo-Islamic shrine located on an offshore inlet is a striking sight. Built in the 19th century, it contains the tomb of the Muslim saint Pir Haji Ali Shah Bukhari. Legend has it that Haji Ali died while on a pilgrimage to Mecca and his casket miraculously floated back to this spot.
It’s only possible to visit the shrine at low tide, via a long causeway (check tide times locally). Thousands of pilgrims, especially on Thursday and Friday (when there may be qawwali; devotional singing), cross it daily, many donating to beggars who line the way. Sadly, parts of the shrine are in a poor state, damaged by storms and the saline air, though a renovation plan exists. It’s visited by people of all faiths.
Kalbadevi to Mahalaxmi
1Top Sights
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
5Eating
6Drinking & Nightlife
3Entertainment
7Shopping
Mahalaxmi Dhobi GhatGHAT
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; Dr E Moses
Rd, Mahalaxmi; h4.30am-dusk)
This 140-year-old dhobi ghat (place where clothes are washed) is Mumbai’s biggest human-powered washing machine: every day hundreds of people beat the dirt out of thousands of kilograms of soiled Mumbai clothes and linen in 1026 open-air troughs. The best view is from the bridge across the railway tracks near Mahalaxmi train station.
Babu Amichand Panalal Adishwarji Jain TempleJAIN TEMPLE
(
GOOGLE MAP ; Walkeshwar
Marg, Malabar Hill;
h5am-9pm)
This temple is renowned among Jains for its beauty – given how beautiful Jain temples are, that’s saying a lot. Check out the paintings and especially the ecstatically colourful zodiac dome ceiling. It’s a small, actively used temple; visitors should be sensitive and dress modestly.
Girgaum ChowpattyBEACH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
This city beach is a favourite evening spot for courting couples, families, political rallies and anyone out to enjoy what passes for fresh air. Evening bhelpuri at the throng of stalls at the beach’s southern end is an essential part of the Mumbai experience. Forget about taking a dip: the water’s toxic.
Mahalaxmi TempleHINDU TEMPLE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; off V Desai Chowk)
It’s only fitting that in money-mad Mumbai one of the busiest and most colourful temples is dedicated to Mahalaxmi, the goddess of wealth. Perched on a headland, it is the focus for Mumbai’s Navratri (Festival of Nine Nights) celebrations in September/October.
Malabar HillAREA
( GOOGLE MAP ; around BG Kher Marg)
Mumbai’s most exclusive neighbourhood, at the northern end of Back Bay, surprisingly contains one of Mumbai’s most sacred oases. Concealed between apartment blocks is Banganga Tank, an enclave of serene temples, bathing pilgrims, meandering, traffic-free streets and picturesque old dharamsalas (pilgrims’ rest houses). According to Hindu legend, Lord Ram created this tank by piercing the earth with his arrow.
For some of the best views of Chowpatty, about 600m east, and the graceful arc of Marine Dr, visit Kamala Nehru Park.
Mani BhavanMUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
www.gandhi-manibhavan.org;
19 Laburnum Rd,
Gamdevi; donations appreciated; h9.30am-5.30pm)
As poignant as it is tiny, this museum is in the building where Mahatma Gandhi stayed during visits to Bombay from 1917 to 1934. The leader formulated his philosophy of satyagraha (nonviolent protest) and launched the 1932 Civil Disobedience campaign from here.
Exhibitions include a photographic record of his life, along with dioramas and documents, such as letters he wrote to Adolf Hitler and Franklin D Roosevelt and tributes from Ho Chi Minh and Albert Einstein.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
KHOTACHIWADI
KhotachiwadiVILLAGE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
This storied wadi (hamlet), a heritage village nearly 180 years old, is clinging onto Mumbai life as it was before high-rises. A Christian enclave of elegant two-storey Portuguese-style wooden mansions, it’s 500m northeast of Girgaum Chowpatty, lying amid Mumbai’s predominantly Hindu and Muslim neighbourhoods. The winding lanes allow a wonderful glimpse into a quiet(ish) life away from noisier Mumbai.
It’s not large, but you can spend a while wandering the alleyways and admiring the old homes and, around Christmas, their decorations. You can also plan an East Indian feast in advance at the home of celebrated fashion designer, Khotachiwadi activist and amateur chef James Ferreira (www.jamesferreira.co.in).
To find Khotachiwadi, head for St Teresa’s Church, on the corner of Jagannath Shankarsheth Marg (JSS Marg) and Rajarammohan Roy Marg (RR Rd/Charni Rd), then head directly opposite the church on JSS Marg and duck down the third lane on your left (look for the Khotachiwadi wall stencil map that says 'Khotachiwadi Imaginaries').
Western Suburbs
oIskcon
TempleHINDU TEMPLE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; www.iskconmumbai.com;
Juhu Church Rd,
Juhu; h4.30am-1pm
& 4-9pm)
Iskcon Juhu plays a key part in the Hare Krishna story, as founder AC Bhaktivedanta Swami Prabhupada spent extended periods here (you can visit his modest living quarters in the adjacent building). The temple compound comes alive during prayer time as the faithful whip themselves into a devotional frenzy of joy, with kirtan dancing accompanied by crashing hand symbols and drumbeats.
Juhu BeachBEACH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Juhu Tara Rd, Juhu)
This sprawling suburban beach draws legions of Indian families and courting couples frolicking in the Arabian Sea for 6km all the way to Versova. As far as beaches go, it's no sun-toasted Caribbean dream, but it's a fun place to have a drink or try some Mumbai street food from the nearby stalls. It's particularly vibrant during Ganesh Chaturthi.
Gilbert HillMOUNTAIN
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Sagar City, Andheri West)
Smack dab among the residential apartment blocks of Andheri West sits this 61m-tall black basalt mountain that resembles a chocolate molten cake (unsurprisingly, as it was formed as result of Mesozoic Era molten lava squeeze). Climb the steep rock-carved staircase for panoramic views and the two Hindu temples set around a garden.
DHARAVI SLUM
Mumbaikars were ambivalent about the stereotypes in 2008’s Slumdog Millionaire, but slums are very much a part of – some would say the foundation of – Mumbai city life. An astonishing 60% of Mumbai’s population lives in slums, and one of the city’s largest slums is Dharavi, originally inhabited by fisherfolk when the area was still creeks, swamps and islands. It became attractive to migrant workers from South Mumbai and beyond when the swamp began to fill in due to natural and artificial causes. It now incorporates 2.2 sq km of land sandwiched between Mumbai’s two major railway lines, and is home to perhaps as many as a million people.
While it may look a bit shambolic from the outside, the maze of dusty alleys and sewer-lined streets of this city-within-a-city is actually a collection of abutting settlements. Some parts of Dharavi have mixed populations, but in other parts inhabitants from different regions of India, and with different trades, have set up homes and tiny factories. Potters from Saurashtra (Gujarat) live in one area, Muslim tanners in another; embroidery workers from Uttar Pradesh work alongside metalsmiths; while other workers recycle plastics as women dry pappadams in the searing sun. Some of these thriving industries, as many as 20,000 in all, export their wares, and the annual turnover of business from Dharavi is thought to exceed US$700 million.
Up close, life in the slums is fascinating to witness. Residents pay rent, most houses have kitchens and electricity, and building materials range from flimsy corrugated-iron shacks to permanent multistorey concrete structures. Perhaps the biggest issue facing Dharavi residents is sanitation, as water supply is irregular – every household has a 200L drum for water storage. Very few dwellings have a private toilet or bathroom, so some neighbourhoods have constructed their own (to which every resident must contribute financially) while other residents are forced to use run-down public facilities.
Many families have been here for generations, and education achievements are higher than in many rural areas: around 15% of children complete a higher education and find white-collar jobs. Many choose to stay, though, in the neighbourhood they grew up in.
Slum tourism is a polarising subject, so you’ll have to decide for yourself. If you opt to visit, the award-winning Reality Tours & Travel has an illuminating tour (from ₹850), and puts 80% of profits back into Dharavi social programs. They can also now arrange a meal with a local family for further insight.
Some tourists opt to visit on their own, which is OK as well – just don’t take photos. Take the train from Churchgate station to Mahim, exit on the west side and cross the bridge into Dharavi.
To learn more about Mumbai’s slums, check out Katherine Boo’s 2012 book Behind the Beautiful Forevers, about life in Annawadi, a slum near the airport, and Rediscovering Dharavi, Kalpana Sharma’s sensitive and engrossing history of Dharavi’s people, culture and industry.
Gorai Island
Global PagodaBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(
GOOGLE MAP ; www.globalpagoda.org;
Gorai; h9am-7pm,
meditation classes 10am-6pm)
Rising up like a mirage from polluted Gorai Creek is this breathtaking, golden 96m-high stupa modelled on Myanmar’s Shwedagon Pagoda. Its dome, which houses relics of Buddha, was built entirely without supports using an ancient technique of interlocking stones, and the meditation hall beneath it seats 8000.
There’s a museum dedicated to the life of the Buddha and his teaching. Twenty-minute meditation classes are held daily; an on-site meditation centre also offers 10-day courses. To get here, take a train from Churchgate to Borivali (exit the station at the ‘West’ side), then take bus 294 (₹5) or an autorickshaw (₹40) to the ferry landing, where Esselworld ferries (return ₹50) depart every 30 minutes. The last ferry to the pagoda is at 5.30pm.
Elephant Island
oElephanta
IslandHINDU TEMPLE
(
GOOGLE MAP ; Gharapuri; Indian/foreigner ₹30/500; hcaves 9am-5pm
Tue-Sun)
Northeast of the Gateway of India in Mumbai Harbour, the rock-cut temples on Gharapuri, better known as Elephanta Island, are a Unesco World Heritage Site. Created between AD 450 and 750, the labyrinth of cave temples represent some of India’s most impressive temple carving.
The main Shiva-dedicated temple is an intriguing latticework of courtyards, halls, pillars and shrines; its magnum opus is a 6m-tall statue of Sadhashiva, depicting a three-faced Shiva as the destroyer, creator and preserver of the universe, his eyes closed in eternal contemplation.
It was the Portuguese who dubbed the island Elephanta because of a large stone elephant near the shore (this collapsed in 1814 and was moved by the British to Mumbai’s Jijamata Udyan). There’s a small museum on-site, with informative pictorial panels on the origin of the caves.
Pushy, expensive guides are available – but you don’t really need one as Pramod Chandra’s A Guide to the Elephanta Caves, widely for sale, is more than sufficient.
Launches ( GOOGLE MAP ; economy/deluxe ₹145/180) head to Gharapuri from the Gateway of India every half-hour from 9am to 3.30pm. Buy tickets at the booths lining Apollo Bunder. The voyage takes about an hour.
The ferries dock at the end of a concrete pier, from where you can walk or take the miniature train (₹10) to the stairway (admission ₹10) leading up to the caves. It’s lined with souvenir stalls and patrolled by pesky monkeys. Wear good shoes.
2Activities
Mumbai has surprisingly good butterfly- and
birdwatching opportunities. Sanjay
Gandhi National Park is popular for woodland birds, while the
mangroves of Godrej (13km east of Bandra) are rich in waders. The
Bombay Natural History Society (BNHS;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %022-22821811; www.bnhs.org; Hornbill
House, Shahid Bhagat Singh Marg; h9am-5.30pm
Mon-Fri) runs excellent
trips every weekend. The mudflats viewable from the Sewri
Jetty also receive thousands of migratory pink flamingos from
November to March.
Outbound AdventureOUTDOORS
(%9820195115; www.outboundadventure.com)
Runs one-day rafting trips on the Ulhas River from July to early September (₹2300 per person). After a good rain, rapids can get up to Grade III+, though usually the rafting is calmer. Also organises guided nature walks, birdwatching, camping (from ₹2000 per person per day) and canoeing trips in the Western Ghats.
YogacaraYOGA, MASSAGE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%022-26511464; www.yogacara.in; 1st fl, SBI
Bldg, 18A New Kant Wadi Rd, Bandra West; hyoga per
class/week ₹650/1600)
Classic hatha and iyengar yoga institute, with excellent massages (from ₹1850 per hour) and treatments; the Abhyangam rejuvenating massage is recommended. Ayurvedic cooking, meditation and Chakra healing classes are also offered sporadically.
Yoga HouseYOGA
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%022-65545001; www.yogahouse.in; Nargis
Villa/Water Bungalow Sherly Rajan Rd, Bandra
West; class ₹700; h8am-9.30pm
Tue-Sun)
A variety of yoga traditions are taught at this homey, traditional-style yoga centre. There’s also a charming cafe on the 3rd floor of the bright-green colonial-style bungalow.
Sewri JettyBIRDWATCHING
( GOOGLE MAP ; Sewri)
This jetty about 5km east of Lower Parel is an ideal place for gawking at thousands of migratory pink flamingos that come from as far away as Siberia between November and March. The birds descend on the surrounding mudflats to forage for sustenance. The best time to visit is between 6am and 10am.
Enquire at Bombay Natural History Society for trips here. Or come on your own by taking a taxi from Sewri station on the Harbour Railway line from CST.
Palms SpaSPA
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%022-66349898; www.thepalmsspaindia.com;
Dhanraj Mahal, Chhatrapati Shivaji
Marg, Colaba;
1hr massage from
₹3200; h10am-10pm)
Indulge in a rub, scrub or tub at this renowned Colaba spa. The exfoliating lemongrass and green-tea scrub is ₹2500.
TOP FESTIVALS IN MUMBAI
Mumbai Sanskruti
(
GOOGLE MAP ; www.asiaticsociety.org.in;
hJan)
This free, two-day celebration of Hindustani classical music is
held on the steps of the gorgeous Asiatic Society Library in the
Fort area.
Kala Ghoda Festival
(www.kalaghodaassociation.com;
hFeb)
Getting bigger and more sophisticated each year, this two-week-long
art fest held in Kala Ghoda and the Fort area sees tons of
performances and exhibitions.
Elephanta Festival (www.maharashtratourism.gov.in;
hFeb/Mar) This classical music and dance festival
takes place on the waterfront Apollo Bunder at the Gateway of
India.
Nariyal Poornima
(
GOOGLE MAP ; hAug)
This Koli celebration in Colaba marks the start of the fishing
season and the retreat of monsoon winds.
Ganesh Chaturthi (www.ganeshchaturthi.com;
hAug/Sep) Mumbai gets totally swept up by this 10-
to 12-day celebration of the Hindu god Ganesh. On the festival’s
first, third, fifth, seventh and 11th days, families and
communities take their Ganesh statues to the seashore at Chowpatty
and Juhu beaches and auspiciously submerge them.
Mumbai Film
Festival (MFF;
www.mumbaifilmfestival.com;
hOct)
New films from the subcontinent and beyond are screened at the
weeklong MFF at cinemas across Mumbai.
CCourses
oYoga
InstituteYOGA, HEALTH &
WELLBEING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %022-26122185; www.theyogainstitute.org;
Shri Yogendra Marg, Prabhat Colony,
Santa Cruz East;
per 1st/2nd month
₹700/500)
At its peaceful leafy campus near Santa Cruz, the respected Yoga Institute has daily classes as well as weekend and weeklong programs, and longer residential courses including teacher training (with the seven-day course a prerequisite).
oBharatiya Vidya
BhavanLANGUAGE, MUSIC
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %022-23631261; www.bhavans.info; 2nd fl, cnr
KM Munshi Marg & Ramabai Rd, Girgaum; language per
hr ₹500, music per month ₹900; h4-8pm)
Excellent private Hindi, Marathi, Gujarati and Sanskrit language classes. Contact Professor Ghosh (a Grammy Award–winning composer and musician) for lessons in tabla, vocals, sitar or classical dance.
Kaivalyadhama Ishwardas Yogic Health CentreHEALTH & WELLBEING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %022-22818417; www.yogcenter.com; 43 Netaji
Subhash Rd, Marine Dr;
h6am-7pm
Mon-Sat)
Several daily yoga classes as well as workshops; fees include a ₹1000 monthly membership fee and a ₹700 admission fee. A four-month teaching certification course is ₹20,000.
TTours
Fiona Fernandez’ Ten Heritage Walks of Mumbai (₹395) has walking tours of the city, with fascinating historical background. The Government of India tourist office can provide a list of approved multilingual guides; official prices are ₹1368/1734 per half-/full day for up to five people.
oReality Tours
& TravelTOURS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %9820822253; www.realitytoursandtravel.com;
1/26 Unique Business Service Centre,
Akber House, Nowroji Fardonji Rd; most tours
₹750-1700; h8am-9pm)
S
Compelling tours of the Dharavi slum, with 80% of post-tax profits going to the agency’s own NGO, Reality Gives (www.realitygives.org). Street food, market, bicycle and Night Mumbai tours are also excellent.
New offerings further afield include socially responsible multiday tours of South India, the Golden Triangle and Rajasthan, including community visits.
Bombay Heritage WalksWALKING
(%9821887321; www.bombayheritagewalks.com;
per 2hr tour (up to 5 people) from
₹3750)
Started by two enthusiastic architects and operating with a slew of colleagues and art historians, BHW has terrific tours of heritage neighbourhoods.
Mumbai Magic ToursTOURS
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %9867707414; www.mumbaimagic.com;
5 Bhaskar Mansion, Sitladevi Temple
Rd; 2hr tour per 2/4 people from
₹1750/1500; h10am-5pm
Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat)
Designed by the authors of the fabulous blog Mumbai Magic (www.mumbai-magic.blogspot.com), these city tours focus on Mumbai's quirks, culture, community, food, bazaars, festivals, Jewish heritage and more.
MTDC/Nilambari Bus ToursBUS
(MTDC;
%020-22845678; www.maharashtratourism.gov.in;
1hr tour lower/upper deck
₹60/180; h7pm &
8.15pm Sat & Sun)
Nilambari in partnership with Maharashtra Tourism runs open-deck bus tours of illuminated heritage buildings on weekends. Buses depart from and can be booked at both the MTDC booth and the MTDC office. Cash only.
MUMBAI FOR CHILDREN
Kidzania
(
GOOGLE MAP ;
www.kidzania.in; 3rd fl, R
City, LBS Marg, Ghatkopar West; child/adult
Tue-Fri ₹950/500, Sat & Sun ₹1200/550; h10am-9pm
Tue-Sun) is Mumbai’s
latest attraction, an educational activity centre where kids can
learn all about flying, fire-fighting and policing, and get stuck
into lots of arts and crafts. It’s on the outskirts on the city,
10km northeast of the Bandra Kurla Complex.
Little tykes with energy to burn will love
the Gorai Island amusement parks, Esselworld (
GOOGLE MAP ;
www.esselworld.in; adult/child
₹949/699; h10.30am-6.30pm) and Water
Kingdom (
GOOGLE MAP ; www.waterkingdom.in;
adult/child
₹999/699; h10am-7pm). Both have lots of rides, slides and
shade. Combined tickets are adult/child ₹1299/899.
The free Hanging Gardens, in Malabar Hill, have animal topiaries, swings in the shade and coconut-wallahs. Kamala Nehru Park, across the street, has a two-storey ‘boot house'.
Bombay Natural History Society conducts nature trips for kids.
4Sleeping
Mumbai has the most expensive accommodation in India and you’ll never quite feel like you’re getting your money’s worth.
Colaba is compact, has the liveliest tourist scene and many budget and midrange options. The neighbouring Fort area is convenient for the main train stations and is a dining and shopping epicentre. Most top-end places are along Marine Dr and in the western suburbs.
No matter where you stay, always book ahead.
Colaba
oSea Shore
HotelGUESTHOUSE$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %022-22874237; 4th fl, 1-49
Kamal Mansion, Arthur Bunder Rd; s/d without
bathroom ₹700/1100;
W)
This place is really making an effort, with small but immaculately clean and inviting rooms, all with flat-screen TVs, set off a railway-carriage-style corridor. Half the rooms even have harbour views (the others don’t have a window). The modish communal bathrooms are well scrubbed and have a little gleam and sparkle. Wi-fi in the reception and some rooms.
Bentley’s HotelHOTEL$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %022-22841474; www.bentleyshotel.com;
17 Oliver Rd,
Colaba; r incl breakfast ₹2350-3150; 
aW)
A welcoming Parsi-owned place in the heart of Colaba that travellers either love or hate depending on which of the five apartment buildings they end up in. First choice are the spacious, colonial-style rooms in the main building (snag 31 or 39 for generous balconies); avoid Henry Rd and JA Allana Marg. Air-conditioning is ₹350 extra. Cash only.
oYWCAGUESTHOUSE$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %022-22025053; www.ywcaic.info; 18 Madame
Cama Rd; s/d/tr with AC incl breakfast & dinner
₹2450/3720/5560;
a
iW)
Efficiently managed, and within walking distance of all the sights in Colaba and Fort, the YMCA is a good deal and justifiably popular. The spacious, well-maintained rooms boast desks and wardrobes and multi-chanelled TVs (wi-fi is best from the lobby). Tariffs include a buffet breakfast, dinner and a daily newspaper. In addition to the room rates there's a one-time ₹50 membership fee.
Hotel MotiGUESTHOUSE$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%9920518228; hotelmotiinternational@yahoo.co.in;
10 Best Marg,
Colaba; d/tr with fan ₹3000/4000, with AC
₹3500/4500; aW)
A gracefully crumbling, colonial-era building on prime Colaba real estate, where owner Raj is a consummate host. Rooms are simply furnished (many have period charm, like ornate stucco ceilings), with LED satellite TVs and new, thicker-than-average mattresses, and are just adequately maintained. A rooftop garden is planned.
Regent HotelHOTEL$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%022-22021518; www.regenthotelcolaba.in;
8 Best Marg, Colaba; r with AC
incl breakfast from ₹5360; aiW)
A dependable choice where staff go the extra mile to help out guests. Located just off Colaba’s main drag, it has big, well-furnished rooms with good-quality mattresses and modern marble-floored bathrooms. Falconry art and Gulf state flags hint at its most popular clientele.
oTaj Mahal
Palace, MumbaiHERITAGE HOTEL$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %022-66653366; https://taj.tajhotels.com;
Apollo Bunder; s/d tower
from ₹16,000/17,500, palace from ₹21,000/22,500; aiW
s)
The grande dame of Mumbai is one of the world’s most iconic hotels and has hosted a roster of presidents and royalty. Sweeping arches, staircases and domes, and a glorious garden and pool ensure an unforgettable stay. Rooms in the adjacent tower lack the period details of the palace itself, but many have spectacular, full-frontal Gateway of India views.
With a myriad of excellent in-house eating and drinking options, plus spa and leisure facilities, it can be a wrench to leave the hotel premises. There's even a new (small but discernibly curated) art gallery. Heritage walks for guests at 5pm daily provide illuminating context about the hotel’s role in the city’s history.
oAbode
BombayBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%8080234066; www.abodeboutiquehotels.com;
1st fl, Lansdowne House, MB
Marg; r with AC incl breakfast
₹4760-16,000; aW)
A terrific 20-room boutique hotel, stylishly designed with colonial-style and art deco furniture, reclaimed teak flooring and original artwork; the luxury rooms have glorious free-standing bath tubs. Staff are very switched on to travellers’ needs, and breakfast is excellent, with fresh juice and delicious local and international choices. A little tricky to find, it’s located behind the Regal Cinema.
THE PARSIS
Mumbai is home to the world’s largest surviving community of Parsis, people of the ancient Zoroastrian faith, who fled Iran in the 10th century to escape religious persecution by the new Muslim rulers of Persia. ‘Parsi’ literally means Perisan. Zoroastrians believe in a single deity, Ahura Mazda, who is worshipped at agiaries (fire temples) across Mumbai, which non-Parsis are forbidden to enter. Parsi funeral rites are unique: the dead are laid out on open-air platforms to be picked over by vultures. The most renowned of these, the Tower of Silence, is located below the Hanging Gardens in Malabar Hill, yet screened by trees and hidden from public view.
The Mumbai Parsi community is extremely
influential and successful, with a 98.6% literacy rate (the highest
in the city). Famous Parsis include the Tata family (India’s
foremost industrialists), author Rohinton Mistry and Freddie
Mercury. The best way for travellers to dig into the culture is by
visiting one of the city's Parsi cafes. These atmospheric time
capsules of a bygone era are a dying breed, but several sail on,
including the excellent Brittania restaurant, Kyaani and Co (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; Ratan
Heights, Dr DB Rd;
snacks ₹15-120; h7am-8.30pm
Mon-Sat, to 6pm Sun) and
tourist hotbed Cafe Mondegar.
Fort Area & Churchgate
Traveller’s InnHOTEL$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %022-22644685; www.hoteltravellersinn.co;
26 Adi Marzban Path; dm
with/without AC incl breakfast ₹800/600, d without AC ₹1800, d with
AC incl breakfast ₹2300;
aiW)
On a quiet, tree-lined street, this small hotel is a very sound choice with clean, if tiny, rooms with cable TV and king-sized beds that represent good value. The two dorms are cramped (and the non-AC one Hades-hot in summer) but are a steal for Mumbai. The location’s excellent, staff are helpful and there’s free wi-fi.
Hotel LawrenceGUESTHOUSE$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %022-22843618; 3rd fl, ITTS
House, 33 Sai Baba Marg, Kala Ghoda; s/d/tr
without bathroom ₹900/1000/1800)
Run by kindly folk, this venerable place has been hosting shoestring travellers for years. Rooms are certainly basic but kept pretty tidy, as are the communal bathrooms. It boasts an excellent Kala Ghoda location, on a quiet little lane accessed by a ramshackle old lift. No breakfast or wi-fi.
oResidency
HotelHOTEL$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %022-22625525; www.residencyhotel.com;
26 Rustom Sidhwa Marg,
Fort; s/d with AC incl breakfast from
₹4640/5120; aiW)
The Residency is the kind of dependable place where you can breathe a sigh of relief after a long journey and be certain you’ll be looked after well. It’s fine value too, with contemporary rooms, some boasting mood lighting, mini-bars, flat-screens and hip en suite bathrooms. Best of all, staff are friendly, polite and understand the nuance of unforced hospitality.
Its Fort location is also excellent. The best-run midranger in Mumbai.
Welcome HotelHOTEL$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %022-66314488; www.welcomehotel.co.in;
257 Shahid Bhagat Singh Marg,
Fort; s/d incl breakfast from ₹3330/3870, without
bathroom from ₹1900/2080; aW)
Service is a little hit and miss and the hallways are dark but the simple rooms here are spacious and comfortable, and shared bathrooms are well kept. Top-floor executive rooms are more boutique than midrange.
SLEEPING PRICE RANGES
The following price ranges refer to a double room and are inclusive of tax.
$ less than ₹2500
$$ ₹2500–₹6000
$$$ more than ₹6000
Western & Northern Suburbs
Backpacker PandaHOSTEL$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %022-28367141; www.backpackerpanda.com;
Shaheed Bhagat Singh Society, Andheri
East; dm with AC ₹900-950; aW)
Mumbai's first vaguely hostel-like backpackers features a rather makeshift lobby (improvised palette-supported lounges, for example) but the six- and eight-bed dorms are cool, clean and climate-controlled (though cramped). There's a tiny kitchen and outdoor patio and it sits next to Chakala Metro (which connects with the main train line at Andheri), 10 minutes by taxi from both of Mumbai's airports.
Bombay BackpackersHOSTEL$
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %9096162246; 1 Uttam
Jeevan, LBS Rd, Kurla West; dm
₹1000; aW)
In an oddly east (but lively) location at Mumbai's BKC business district, this artsy backpackers is another welcome newcomer to a previously nonexistent scene. Sturdy six- and eight-bed teak-like dorm beds in some cases come triple-stacked, and there's a colourful kitchen. It's just a few minutes' walk from Kurla Junction and a five-minute rickshaw ride to Bandra.
oJuhu
ResidencyBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %022-67834949; www.juhuresidency.com;
148B Juhu Tara Rd,
Juhu; s/d with AC incl breakfast from
₹6250; aiW)
The aroma of sweet lemongrass greets you in the lobby at this excellent boutique hotel with an inviting atmosphere (and a fine location, five minutes’ walk from Juhu beach). The chocolate-and-coffee colour scheme in the modish rooms works well, each room boasting marble floors, dark woods, artful bedspreads and flat-screen TVs. There are three restaurants – good ones – for just 18 rooms.
To top it all off, free airport pick-ups are included.
IskconGUESTHOUSE$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%022-26206860; www.iskconmumbai.com/guest-house;
Juhu Church Rd,
Juhu; r from ₹3000, with AC ₹4000; aW)
An intriguing place to stay inside Juhu’s lively Iskcon complex. Though the hotel building is a slightly soulless concrete block, some rooms enjoy vistas over the Hare Krishna temple compound. Spartan decor is offset by the odd decorative flourish such as Gujarati sankheda (lacquered country wood) furniture, and staff are very welcoming.
Anand HotelHOTEL$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%022-26203372; anandhote@yahoo.co.in;
Gandhigram Rd, Juhu; s/d with AC
from ₹2620/4170;
aW)
Yes, the decor’s in 50 shades of beige but the Anand’s rooms are comfortable, spacious and represent decent value, considering the prime location on a quiet street next to Juhu beach. The excellent in-house Dakshinayan restaurant scores highly for authentic, inexpensive meals too. It’s a particularly good deal for solo travellers.
Hotel ColumbusHOTEL$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %022-42144343; www.hotelcolumbus.in;
344 Nanda Patkar Rd, Vile Parle
East; s/d with AC incl breakfast from
₹4170/4700; aiW)
Rooms at the best midrange option in the
domestic airport area aren’t new – they're a little scuffed up –
but are very homey. Staff are helpful and willing to solve issues.
Just 900m away is the local's secret seafooder Gajelee (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%022-26166470; www.gajalee.com; Kadamgiri
Complex, Hanuman Rd, Vile Parle East; mains
₹275-875; h11.30am-3.30pm & 7-11.30pm).
oITC
MarathaHOTEL$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %022-28303030; www.itchotels.in; Sahar Rd,
Andheri East;
s/d incl breakfast from
₹21,450/23,240;
aiWs)
The five-star hotel with the most luxurious local character – from the Muhammed Ali Rd–inspired jharokas (lattice windows) around the atrium to the Maratha-influenced Resident's Bar (a guest-only level overlooking public areas), the details are extraordinary. The rooms, awash in lush colour schemes, exude Indian opulence. Peshawri, Mumbai’s most memorable Northwest Frontier restaurant, is located here.
oTaj
SantacruzBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %022-62115211; https://taj.tajhotels.com/en-in/taj-santacruz-mumbai;
Chhatrapati Shivaji International
Airport (Domestic Terminal); s/d from
₹14,500/16,500;
aiW)
Forget the 3500 hand-blown chandelier bulbs or the 75-species aquarium in the lobby of this recently opened hotel connected to the domestic airport terminal – at the lap-of-luxury Taj Santacruz it's all about the gorgeous Tree of Life art installation forged from 4000 pieces of broken glass (a Rajasthani technique) in the Tiqri bar and restaurant.
The standard rooms, decked out in soothing yellow, fuchsia and orange, are the city's largest at nearly 54 sq metres (some have direct runway views). If you cannot stay here, visit on a layover for a massage at Jiva Spa (from ₹4600) or a cocktail.
Hotel Regal EnclaveHOTEL$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %022-67261111; www.regalenclave.com;
4th Rd, Khar West; r with AC
incl breakfast from ₹7740; aW)
Hotel Regal Enclave enjoys a stellar location in an exceedingly leafy part of Khar, right near the station (some rooms have railway views) and close to all of Bandra’s best eating, drinking and shopping. Rooms are spacious and comfortable – save the tight bathrooms – with pleasant if unoriginal decor. Rates include airport pick-up.
Hotel Suba InternationalBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %022-67076707; www.hotelsubainternational.com;
Sahar Rd, Andheri
East; s/d with AC incl breakfast from
₹7600/8700; aW)
A 72-room ‘boutique business’ hotel that’s very close to the international airport (free transfers included) and boasts modish rooms with clean lines, stylish touches, iPads and a wee bit of chipped paint.
2City
Walk
Architectural Mumbai
Start Gateway of India
End Liberty Cinema
Length 3.5km; 1¾ hours
Mumbai’s defining feature is its distinctive mix of colonial-era and art deco architecture. Starting from the 1Gateway of India, walk up Chhatrapati Shivaji Marg past the art deco residential-commercial complex 2Dhunraj Mahal, towards 3Regal Circle. Walk the circle for views of the surrounding buildings – including the art deco 4Regal Cinema and the 5Majestic Hotel, now the Sahakari Bhandar cooperative store. Continue up Mahatma Gandhi (MG) Rd, past the beautifully restored facade of the 6National Gallery of Modern Art. Opposite is the landmark 7Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya, built in glorious Indo-Saracenic style. Back across the road is the ‘Romanesque Transitional’ 8Elphinstone College and the 9David Sassoon Library & Reading Room, where members escape the afternoon heat lazing on planters’ chairs on the upper balcony.
Continue north to admire the vertical art deco stylings of the aNew India Assurance Company Building. On an island ahead lies bFlora Fountain, depicting the Roman goddess of flowers. Turn east down Veer Nariman Rd, walking towards cSt Thomas’ Cathedral. Ahead lies the stately dHorniman Circle, an arcaded ring of buildings laid out in the 1860s around a beautifully kept botanical garden. It’s overlooked from the east by the neoclassical eTown Hall, home to the Asiatic Society library. Backtrack to Flora Fountain, continuing west and turning south onto Bhaurao Patil Marg to see the august fHigh Court and the ornate gUniversity of Mumbai. Unfortunately, the university’s 84m-high hRajabai Clock Tower is off-limits for visitors, but is best observed from within the iOval Maidan. Turn around to compare the colonial edifices with the row of art deco beauties lining Maharshi Karve (MK) Rd – most notably the wedding cake tower of the jEros cinema.
Wrap things up by making a quick diversion east to New Marine Lines and heading 1km north to the kLiberty Cinema, a dazzling, 1200-capacity single-screen art deco gem opened in 1949.
5Eating
Flavours from all over India collide with international trends and taste buds in Mumbai. Colaba has most of the cheap tourist haunts, while Fort and Churchgate are more upscale, a trend that continues in Mahalaxmi and the western suburbs, where you’ll find Mumbai’s most international and expensive restaurants.
Subscribe to Brown Paper Bag (http://brownpaperbag.in/mumbai) for daily news on the latest and hottest dining destinations.
Colaba
oBademiya Seekh
Kebab StallMUGHLAI, FAST FOOD$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; www.bademiya.com; Tulloch
Rd; light meals ₹110-220; h5pm-4am)
These side-by-side, outrageously popular
late-night street stalls (split between veg and nonveg) are in
Bademiya's original location, where they remain a key Colaba
hang-out for their trademark buzz and bustle and delicious
meat-heavy menu. Expect spicy, fresh-grilled kebabs and tikka rolls
hot off the grill. They also have sit-down restaurants in
Colaba (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; www.bademiya.com; 19A Ram
Mention, Nawroji Furdunji St, Colaba; meals
₹150-290; h1pm-2am) and Fort (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %022-22655657; www.bademiya.com; Botawala
Bldg, Horniman Circle, Fort; mains
₹190-410; h11.30am-1.30am).
OlympiaMUGHLAI$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
Rahim Mansion, 1 Shahid Bhagat Singh
Marg; meals ₹80-140; h7am-11.45pm)
This old-school Mughlai cheapie does a recommended masala kheema (spicy minced meat; ₹50) for breakfast – scoop it up with some roti. A simple place renowned for its pocket-friendly meat dishes; the seekh kebab (₹160) and chicken butter fry masala (₹90) are also great.
TheobromaCAFE$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
www.theobroma.in; 24 Cusrow
Baug, Shahid Bhagat Singh Marg, Colaba; confections
₹60-190, light meals ₹180-200; h7am-11pm)
Perfectly executed cakes, tarts and brownies
go well with the coffee at this staple Mumbai patisserie. The
pastries change regularly; if you’re lucky, you’ll find popular
decadence like the chocolate opium pastry, but it's all great. For
brunch have the akoori – Parsi-style scrambled eggs – with
green mango. The Bandra branch (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
33rd Rd, near Linking Rd, Bandra
West; confections ₹60-190; h8am-midnight) is big and airy, though with a smaller
menu.
oIndigoFUSION, CONTINENTAL$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%022-66368980; www.foodindigo.com;
4 Mandlik Marg; mains
₹885-2185; hnoon-3pm
& 7-11.45pm;
W)
This incredibly classy Colaba institution is a colonial-era property converted into a temple of fine dining. It serves inventive, expensive European and Asian cuisine and offers a long wine list, sleek ambience and a gorgeous rooftop deck. Favourites include creamed pumpkin and sage ravioli and maple orange-glazed duck breast – if you can pass on mac and cheese lasagne, that is!
Reserve ahead.
Indigo DelicatessenCAFE$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; www.indigodeli.com;
Pheroze Bldg, Chhatrapati Shivaji
Marg, Colaba;
sandwiches/mains from
₹625/645; h8.30am-midnight; W)
A bustling and fashionable cafe-restaurant with cool tunes and massive wooden tables. The menu includes all-day breakfasts (₹399 to ₹725) and straightforward international classics like pork ribs, thin-crust pizza and inventive sandwiches. It’s always busy so service can get stretched.
TableFUSION$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%022-22825000; www.thetable.in; Kalapesi
Trust Bldg, Apollo Bunder Marg, Colaba; small plates
₹405-1075, mains ₹825-1375; hnoon-4pm
& 7pm-1am, tea 4.30-6.30pm; W)
San Francisco chef Alex Sanchez is all the rage in Colaba, where his market-fresh, globally inspired fusion menu changes daily and does everything in its power to satisfy your cravings for a curry-free evening out. There's a lot to love: a crunchy kale salad with Iranian dates and toasted pistachios, zucchini spaghetti with almonds and Parmesan and house-made black truffle taglierini.
BasilicoMEDITERRANEAN$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%022-66345670; www.cafebasilico.com;
Sentinel House, Arthur Bunder Rd,
Colaba; mains ₹320-950; h9am-12.30am; W)
Euro-style Basilico does decadent sweets and especially creative fare when it comes to vegans and vegetarians. There are exquisite salads (from ₹320) like quinoa, organic avocado and papaya, and numerous other interesting options like veg Moroccan tagines. It draws a top-end Indian crowd. If you can walk past that crunchy chocolate cake without biting, you're better than us.
The Bandra branch (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
www.cafebasilico.com;
St John Rd, Pali Naka, Bandra
West; mains ₹320-950; h9am-midnight; W) has
outdoor seating.
STREET EATS
Mumbai’s street cuisine is vaster than many Western culinary traditions. Stalls tend to get started in late afternoon, when chai complements much of the fried deliciousness; items are ₹10 to ₹80.
Most street food is vegetarian. Chowpatty Beach is a great place to try Mumbai’s famous bhelpuri (puffed rice tossed with fried rounds of dough, lentils, onions, herbs and chutneys). Stalls offering samosas, pav bhaji (spiced vegetables and bread), vada pav (deep-fried spiced lentil-ball sandwich), bhurji pav (scrambled eggs and bread) and dabeli (a mixture of potatoes, spices, peanuts and pomegranate, also on bread) are spread through the city.
For a meaty meal, Mohammed Ali and Merchant Rds in Kalbadevi are famous for kebabs. In Colaba, Bademiya Seekh Kebab Stall is a late-night Mumbai rite of passage, renowned for its chicken tikka rolls.
The office workers’ district on the north side of Kala Ghoda is another good hunting ground for street snacks.
Self-Catering
Colaba MarketMARKET$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
Lala Nigam St; h7am-11pm)
A colourful and atmospheric fresh fruit and vegetables street market.
Star DailySUPERMARKET$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
www.starbazaarindia.com;
Sanghvi House, 3rd Pasta Lane,
Colaba; h10am-9.30pm)
This new Tata/Tesco initiative is easily Colaba's best supermarket for self-caterers. It's an air-con, Western-style affair with all your daily needs, including fresh produce.
DABBA-WALLAHS
A small miracle of logistics, Mumbai’s 5000 dabba-wallahs (literally ‘food container person’; also called tiffin-wallahs) work tirelessly to deliver hot lunches to office workers throughout the city (and to the poor later on in the evenings, a 2015 initiative).
Lunch boxes are picked up each day from restaurants and homes and carried on heads, bicycles and trains to a centralised sorting station. A sophisticated system of numbers and colours (many wallahs don’t read) identifies the destination of each lunch. More than 200,000 meals are delivered – always on time, come (monsoon) rain or (searing) shine.
This system has been used for over a century and there’s only about one mistake per six million deliveries. (In a 2002 analysis, Forbes Magazine found that the dabba-wallahs had a six-sigma, or 99.999999%, reliability rating.) The system was also the subject of a Harvard Business School study in 2010.
Look for these master messengers mid-morning at Churchgate and CST stations.
Fort Area & Churchgate
K RustomSWEETS$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
87 Stadium House, Veer Nariman Rd,
Churchgate; desserts ₹30-80; h9.30am-11pm
Mon-Sat, 3-11pm Sun)
K Rustom has nothing but a few metal freezers, but the ice-cream sandwiches (pick from 48 flavours) here have been pleasing Mumbaikar palettes since 1953.
Badshah Snacks & DrinksINDIAN$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; 52/156
Umrigar Bldg, Lokmanya Tilak Marg; snacks &
drinks ₹55-240;
h7am-12.30am)
Opposite Crawford Market, Badshah has been serving snacks, fruit juices and its famous falooda (rose-flavoured drink made with milk, cream, nuts and vermicelli), kulfi falooda (with ice cream) and kesar pista falooda (with saffron and pistachios) to hungry bargain-hunters for more than 100 years.
oLa
FolieCAFE$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
www.lafolie.in; 16 Commerce
House, Kala Ghoda;
cakes ₹260; hnoon-11pm)
Chocoholics and cake fetishistas look no further – this minuscule Kala Ghoda place will seduce and hook you. Owner Sanjana Patel spent seven years in France studying the art (addiction?) of pastry- and chocolate-making, which was obviously time well spent. Try the delectable Madagascar cake (chocolate with raspberry mousse) or the Infinite Caramel (salted caramel and hazelnut) with a latte (₹150).
oSamratGUJARATI$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; www.prashantcaterers.com;
Prem Ct, J Tata Rd; thali
lunch/dinner ₹330/415;
hnoon-11pm; a)
Samrat has an à la carte menu but most rightly opt for the famous Gujarati thali – a cavalcade of taste and texture, sweetness and spice that includes four curries, three chutneys, curd, rotis and other bits and pieces. Samrat is air-conditioned and beer is available.
A Taste of KeralaKERALAN$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; Prospect
Chambers Annex, Pitha St, Fort; mains
₹96-250, thali from ₹170; h9am-midnight)
An inexpensive Keralan eatery with lots of coconut and southern goodness on the menu; try one of the epic thalis (served on a banana leaf) or the seafood specials like prawn pepper masala. Don't skip the payasam (rice pudding with jaggery and coconut milk) for dessert. Staff are very welcoming, and there’s an air-conditioned dining room.
BrittaniaPARSI$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
Wakefield House, Ballard
Estate; mains ₹250-900; hnoon-4pm
Mon-Sat)
This Parsi institution is the domain of 95-year-old Boman Kohinoor, who will warm your heart with his stories (and he still takes the orders!). The signature dishes are the dhansak (meat with curried lentils and rice) and the berry pulao – spiced and boneless mutton or chicken, veg or egg, buried in basmati rice and tart barberries imported from Iran.
Cash only.
Oye KakeNORTH INDIAN$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
13C Cawasji Patel
Rd; mains ₹209-289; h11am-4pm
& 7-11pm)
An intimate all-veg Punjabi place where the daily thali (₹219) is wildly popular with local office workers and renowned for its authenticity. Signature dishes include the paneer tikka masala, sarson da saag (mustard leaf curry; seasonal from December to February) and parathas (flaky flatbread); lassis are excellent too. Prepare to wait for a table.
PantryCAFE$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
www.thepantry.in; ground fl,
Yashwanth Chambers, Military Square Lane, B Bharucha Marg, Kala
Ghoda; breakfast/meals from ₹195/275; h8.30am-11pm; W)S
Pantry is a bakery-cafe that offers a choice of fine pies and organic breads, soups and sandwiches (the gourmet cheese toastie is exceptional) plus delicious mains. Cold-brew coffee, too. Breakfasts are legendary: try the scrambled eggs with tomato, gruyère and local ham, or some organic-flour waffles with fruit. The elegantly restored historic building channels a Martha Stewart vibe.
Shree Thakkar BhojnalayaINDIAN$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; 31 Dadisheth
Agyari Lane, Marine Lines; thali
₹500; h11.30am-3pm
& 7-10.30pm Mon-Sat, 11.30am-3.30pm Sun)
With a cult following and festive lavender tables to boot, this thali mainstay, one of the oldest in the city, puts on the full-court flavour press with their never-ending Gujarati/Rajasthani set meals, full of farsans (bite-size snacks) and scrumptious veg curries. The air-con environs are a welcome retreat from the busy congestion below. They've been at it since 1945.
SuzetteFRENCH$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
www.suzette.in; Atlanta
Bldg, Vinayak K Shah Marg, Nariman Point; meals
₹300-450; h9am-11pm
Mon-Sat; W)S
Relaxed Parisian-style place steeped where possible in organically sourced ingredients. Delectable crêpes, croques, salads, juices and soothing lounge music attract flocks of foreigners in need of a curry recess. On the crêpe front, sweet tooths should try the organic jaggery; for a savoury flavour, order a croque feta (with tomato, mozzarella, creamed spinach and feta).
The Bandra branch (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
www.suzette.in; St John St,
Pali Naka, Bandra West;
mains ₹220-560; h9am-11pm) has outdoor seating and is open
daily.
Kala Ghoda CaféCAFE$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; www.kgcafe.in; 10 Ropewalk
Lane, Kala Ghoda;
mains ₹170-530; h8.30am-11.45pm Mon-Fri, from 8am Sat &
Sun; W)S
Once tiny, this boho cafe was expanded in 2016 with the addition of a vintage Mumbai backroom, and now turns away fewer of its artsy and creative fanbase. It serves organic coffee and tea, sandwiches, salads and breakfasts, and there’s usually some interesting art or photography on the walls.
oBurma
BurmaBURMESE$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%022-40036600; www.burmaburma.in; Oak Lane,
off Mahatma Gandhi Rd;
meals ₹330-500; hnoon-2.45pm
& 7-11pm; W)
A sleek, stylish restaurant that marries contemporary design with a few traditional artefacts (prayer wheels line one wall), providing a beautiful setting for the cuisine of Myanmar (Burma). The menu is well priced, intricate and ambitious, with inventive salads (the pickled tea leaf is extraordinary), curries and soups: Oh No Khow Suey is a glorious coconut-enriched noodle broth. No alcohol.
oKhyberMUGHLAI, INDIAN$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %022-40396666; www.khyberrestaurant.com;
145 Mahatma Gandhi
Rd; mains ₹510-1100; h12.30-4pm
& 7.30-11.30pm)
The much-acclaimed Khyber has a Northwest Frontier–themed design that incorporates murals depicting turbaned Mughal royalty, lots of exposed brickwork and oil lanterns – just the sort of place an Afghan warlord might feel at home. The meat-centric menu features gloriously tender kebabs, rich curries and lots of tandoori favourites roasted in the Khyber’s famous red masala sauce.
Mahesh Lunch HomeSEAFOOD$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %022-22023965; www.maheshlunchhome.com;
8B Cowasji Patel St,
Fort; mains ₹230-640; h11.30am-4pm
& 6-11pm)
A great place to try Mangalorean or Chinese-style seafood in Mumbai. It’s renowned for its ladyfish, pomfret, lobster, crab (try it with butter garlic pepper sauce) and anything else out of the sea.
There’s also a bigger Juhu branch (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %022-66955554; www.maheshlunchhome.com;
Juhu Tara Rd, Juhu; mains
₹350-975; h12-3.30pm
& 7pm-12.30am;
W) with
an extended menu.
TrishnaSEAFOOD$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%022-22703214; www.trishna.co.in; Ropewalk
Lane, Kala Ghoda;
mains ₹400-1800; hnoon-3.30pm
& 6.15pm-midnight Mon-Sat, noon-3.30pm & 7pm-midnight
Sun)
Behind a modest entrance on a quiet Kala Ghoda lane is this often-lauded, intimate South Indian seafood restaurant. It’s not a trendy place – the decor is old school, the seating a little cramped and the menu perhaps too long – but the cooking is superb. Witness the Hyderabadi fish tikka, jumbo prawns with green pepper sauce and the outstanding crab dishes.
MamagotoASIAN$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%022-61054586; www.mamagoto.in; 5 Surya
Mahal, B Bharucha Marg, Kala Ghoda; mains
₹529-799; hnoon-11.30pm; W)
Mamagoto means ‘play with food’ in Japanese and this zany hot spot is certainly fun, with a relaxed vibe, cool tunes and kooky decor (think pop and propaganda art). The menu really delivers, with punchy Pan-Asian flavours: the authentic Malay-style Penang curry is terrific and the fiery Bangkok bowl packs a wallop of spice.
There’s also a branch in Bandra (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%022-61054585; www.mamagoto.in; Gazebo
House, 133 Hill Rd, Bandra West; mains
₹529-799; hnoon-11.30pm; W).
Self-Catering
Nature's BasketSUPERMARKET$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; www.naturesbasket.co.in;
27 Khetan Bhavan, 198 Jamshedi Tata
Rd, Churchgate;
h8am-10pm)
An eco-leaning well-to-do supermarket chain with fresh produce, a deli counter, loads of international items as well as a sizeable organic section.
Kalbadevi to Mahalaxmi
SardarSTREET FOOD$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
166A Tardeo Rd Junction,
Tulsiwadi; pav bhaji from ₹125; h11am-2am)
If you're spooked about Indian street food, try one of the city's most beloved street staples, pav bhaji, at this Mumbai institution. The curried veg mishmash is cooked to death on a series of scalding tawas (hotplates) and served with a butter floater the size of a Bollywood ego. Get in line; the entire restaurant turns over at once.
New Kulfi CentreICE CREAM$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; 556 Marina
Mansion, Sukh Sagar, Sardar V Patel Rd, Girgaon; kulfi per
100g ₹40-90; h9.30am-1am)
Serves 36 flavours of the best kulfi (Indian firm-textured ice cream) you’ll have anywhere. Killer flavours include pistachio, malai (cream) and mango.
Cafe NooraniNORTH INDIAN$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
www.cafenoorani.com;
Tardeo Rd, Haji Ali
Circle; mains ₹140-450; h8am-11.30pm)
Inexpensive, old-school eatery that’s a requisite stop before or after visiting Haji Ali Dargah. Mughlai and Punjabi staples dominate, with kebabs chargrilled to perfection and great biryanis; try the chicken tikka biryani (₹300).
RevivalINDIAN$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
39B Chowpatty
Seaface; thali ₹400; hnoon-3.30pm
& 7-11.30pm;
a)
This Thali mecca traded in chaotic Crawford Market congestion for a location with Chowpatty sea views in 2016. Waiters saunter around the latest digs in silken dhotis, filling your plates with dozens of delectable (veg-only) curries, sides, chutneys, rotis and rice dishes in an all-you-can-eat gastro onslaught. The thali menu changes daily and there's a rooftop hookah bar with sea views as well.
Western Suburbs
North Mumbai is home to the city’s trendiest dining, centred on Bandra West and Juhu.
Hotel Ram AshrayaSOUTH INDIAN$
(
GOOGLE MAP ; Bhandarkar
Rd, King’s Circle, Matunga East; light meals
₹40-75; h5am-9.30pm)
In the Tamil enclave of King’s Circle, 80-year-old Ram Ashraya is beloved by southern families for its spectacular dosas, idli (spongy, round, fermented rice cake) and uttapa (pancake with toppings). Filter coffee is strong and flavoursome. The menu (no English) changes daily. It’s just outside Matunga Rd train station’s east exit.
oDakshinayanSOUTH INDIAN$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
Anand Hotel, Gandhigram Rd,
Juhu; mains ₹130-250; h11am-11pm
Mon-Sat, from 8am Sun)
With rangoli on the walls, servers in lungis and sari-clad women lunching (chappals – sandals – off under the table), Dakshinayan channels Tamil Nadu. There are delicately textured dosas, idli and uttapam, village-fresh chutneys and perhaps the best rasam (tomato soup with spices and tamarind) in Mumbai. Finish off with a South Indian filter coffee, served in a stainless-steel set.
Kitchen Garden by SuzetteCAFE$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; www.suzette.in; 9 Gasper
Enclave, St John St, Bandra West; light meals
₹190-550; h9am-11pm; W)S
From the same French trio that brought us Suzette comes this new, superb organic cafe, a haven of health and homesick-remedying salads, sandwiches, cold-press juices and coffee sourced from local cooperatives and organic farms around Maharashtra and worldwide. The burrata, made by an American-Indian Hare Krishna in Gujarat, is outstanding, but then again so is everything.
oYoga
HouseCAFE$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
www.yogahouse.in; Nargis
Villa/Water Bungalow Sherly Rajan Rd, Bandra
West; light meals ₹140-390; h8am-9.30pm; W)
This haven of pastel shades, scatter cushions and greenery in the bungalow of Yoga House is the perfect little retreat from Mumbai’s mean streets. The menu is very creative and healthy – much of it vegan, raw and all of it wholesome. Signature items include its famous salads (₹215 to ₹370), 10-grain toasts (₹130), soups and gussied-up hash browns (with spinach, mozzarella and peppers).
Goila Butter ChickenINDIAN$$
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %8080809102; www.goilabutterchicken.com;
26 Sai Kanwal Complex, JP Rd, Andheri
West; mains ₹275-335; hnoon-3pm
& 6pm-midnight)
Don't miss this takeaway/delivery-only gourmet stand dedicated to celebrity chef Saransh Goila's take on one of India's most iconic dishes: butter chicken. Goila, who won Indian TV's Food Food Maha Challenge, gets the gravy just right – a perfect marriage of tang and spice – and whips it up various ways (traditional, with paneer, in biryani or rolls). Delivers to airport-area hotels.
Raaj BhogGUJARATI$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
3rd Rd, Cosmos Commercial Center, Khar
West; meals ₹180-300; h11am-3.30pm
& 7-11pm)
Modestly priced restaurants are not easy to find in this part of town, so this friendly Gujarati place by Khar train station is a welcome addition. The (unlimited) deluxe thali costs ₹330 and is filling and varied; hilarious staff will talk your ears off.
oPeshawriNORTH INDIAN$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %022-28303030; www.itchotels.in; ITC Maratha,
Sahar Rd, Andheri East;
mains ₹1600-3000; h12.45-2.45pm
& 7-11.45pm)
Make this Northwest Frontier restaurant, outside the international airport, your first or last stop in Mumbai. It's a carbon-copy of Delhi's famous Bukhara, with the same menu and decor. Folks flock here for the buttery dhal bukhara (a 24-hour simmered black dhal; ₹800), but its kebabs are sublime: try the Murgh Malai (tandoor-grilled chicken marinated in cream cheese, malt vinegar, green chilli and coriander).
Despite the five-star surrounds (and prices) you’re encouraged to eat with your hands and the seating is low.
oBastianSEAFOOD$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
www.facebook.com/BastianSeafood;
B/1, New Kamal Bldg, Linking Rd,
Bandra West;
mains for 2
₹700-2600; h7pm-12.45am
Tue-Sun; W)
All the praise bestowed upon this trendy seafooder is indisputably warranted. Chinese-Canadian chef Boo Kwang Kim and his culinary sidekick, American-Korean Kelvin Cheung, have forged an East-meets-West gastronomic dream. Go with the market-fresh side menu: choose your catch (prawns, fish, mud crab or lobster) then pick from an insanely difficult list of impossibly tasty Pan-Asian sauces.
Don't miss the stir-fried lotus root, either.
oBombay
CanteenINDIAN$$$
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %022-49666666; www.thebombaycanteen.com;
Process House, Kamala Mills, SB Rd,
Lower Parel;
small plates ₹175-450, mains
₹300-975; hnoon-1am; W)
Bombay Canteen is Mumbai's hottest restaurant, courtesy of former New York chef and Top Chef Masters winner Floyd Cardoz and executive chef Thomas Zacharias, who spent time at New York's three-Michelin-star Le Bernardin. India-wide regional dishes and traditional flavours dominate – Kejriwa toast, Goan pulled-pork vindaloo tacos, smoked mutton guijiya curry – each dish an explosion of texture and flavour.
Excellent cocktails (₹350 to ₹900) like Incredible India (vodka, basil, ginger, pineapple juice and orange juice) are perfect for jump-starting a night out in Lower Parel. Reservations are essential (7.30pm/8pm and 10pm/10.30pm seatings only). Don't miss the comment card – it's a riot.
oMasala
LibraryMODERN INDIAN$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %022-66424142; www.masalalibrary.co.in;
ground fl, First International
Financial Centre, G Block, Bandra East; mains
₹500-900, tasting menu ₹2300-2500, with wine
₹3800-4000; hnoon-2.15pm
& 7-11pm)
Daring and imaginative Masala Library dangles the contemporary Indian carrot to foodies and gastronauts, challenging them to rethink their notions of subcontinent cuisine. The tasting menus are an exotic culinary journey – think pan-tossed mushrooms with black pepper, dill crust and truffle haze; kashmiri chilli duck, jalebi caviar and a betel-leaf candy floss to finish.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Colaba
oColaba
SocialBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; www.socialoffline.in;
ground fl, Glen Rose Bldg, BK Boman
Behram Marg, Apollo Bunder; h9am-1.30am; W)
Colaba is the best of the locations of the hip Social chain, which combines a restaurant/bar with a collaborative work space. The happening bar nails the cocktails (₹295 to ₹450) – the Acharroska is the perfect East-meets-West marriage of Indian pungency and Brazilian sweet. The food (mains ₹160 to ₹360) spans everything from fish and chips and poutine (French fries and cheese curds topped with gravy) to Punjabi and Mangalorean (with great Parsi dishes for breakfast).
There are also Social locations in Lower Parel
– Todi Mill (
GOOGLE MAP ; www.socialoffline.in;
242 Mathuradas Mill Compound, Todi
Mills, Lower Parel;
h9am-1am; W) –
and Khar (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
www.socialoffline.in;
Rohan Plaza, 5th Rd, Ram Krishna
Nagar, Khar West;
mains ₹160-360; h9am-1am; W).
oHarbour
BarBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
Taj Mahal Palace, Apollo
Bunder; h11am-11.45pm)
With unmatched views of the Gateway of India and harbour, this timeless bar inside the Taj Mahal Palace is an essential visit. Drinks aren’t uberexpensive (from ₹450/670/900 for a beer/wine/cocktail) given the surrounds and the fact that they come with very generous portions of nibbles (including jumbo cashews).
Woodside InnPUB
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
www.facebook.com/WoodsideInn;
Indian Mercantile Mansion, Wodehouse
Rd, Colaba; h11am-1am
Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat & Sun; W)
As close as you’ll get to a London pub in Mumbai, this cosy place has a gregarious vibe and serves Gateway and Independence craft beers on draught (pints from ₹295). There’s comfort food (mains ₹425 to ₹895) and a great two-for-one happy hour (4pm to 8pm daily).
Cafe MondegarPUB
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; Metro House,
5A Shahid Bhagat Singh Marg, Colaba; h7.30am-12.30am Sun-Wed, to 1am
Thu-Sat)
Iranian-founded 'Mondy's' has been drawing a heady mix of foreigners and locals since 1871. It's first and foremost a rowdy bar serving ice-cold mugs of Kingfisher (₹220), but don't discount it for its wide range of American, English and Parsi breakfast choices (₹130 to ₹350).
Leopold CafeBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; www.leopoldcafe.com;
cnr Colaba Causeway & Nawroji F
Rd, Colaba; h7.30am-midnight)
Love it or hate it, most tourists end up at this clichéd Mumbai travellers’ institution at one time or another. Around since 1871, Leopold’s has wobbly ceiling fans, crap service and a rambunctious atmosphere conducive to swapping tales with strangers. There’s also food and a cheesy DJ upstairs on weekend nights.
DON'T MISS
CRAFT BREW BOMBAY
Few visitors to India would argue that an ice-cold Kingfisher in a dingy, smoke-filled bar isn't a quintessential Indian experience, but craft-beer connoisseurs might also add that India's ubiquitous native lager gets old pretty quick. And then there's those distinctly disgusting YouTube videos of oily, urine-coloured something being drained out from beer bottles before drinking (it's usually glycerine, widely used in Indian beers as a preservative). Cheers? Not really.
While certainly late to the craft-brew
boozefest, Mumbai has finally embraced hop-heavy IPAs, roasty,
chocolatey porters and refreshing saisons, thanks to the city's
very own craft-beer wallah, American expat Greg Kroitzsh. Kroitzsh
opened Mumbai's first microbrewery, Barking
Deer (
GOOGLE MAP ;
www.barkingdeer.in;
Mathuradas Mill Compound, Senapati
Bapat Marg, Lower Parel;
hnoon-1.30am; W), in
2013, and the taps began flowing in Mumbai as they already had been
for some time in craftier Indian cities like Pune, Bangalore and
Gurgaon.
Fancy a pint? In Andheri West,
Independence Brewing Company (
GOOGLE MAP ; www.independencebrewco.com;
Boolani Estate Owners Premises Co-Op,
New Link Rd, Andheri West; h1pm-1.15am; W) and
Brewbot (
GOOGLE MAP ;
www.brewbot.in; Morya
Landmark 1, off New Link Rd, Andheri West; h4pm-1am
Mon-Fri, noon-1am Sat;
W) are
worth the journey north, as is the excellent Doolally Taproom (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/godoolallybandra;
Shop 5/6, Geleki, ONGC Colony, Bandra
West; h7am-1am; W) in
Bandra. In Lower Parel are Barking Deer, White Owl (
GOOGLE MAP ;
www.whiteowl.in; One
Indiabulls Center, Tower 2 Lobby, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower
Parel; hnoon-1am), Toit Tap Room
(
GOOGLE MAP ; www.toit.in; Zeba Centre,
Mathuradas Mill Compound, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower
Parel; hnoon-1.30am) and, to get a sampling of nearly all of
them, the new, 25-tap Woodside Inn (
GOOGLE MAP ;
www.facebook.com/WoodsideInn;
Mathuradas Mills Compound, NM Joshi
Marg, Lower Parel;
h11am-1am
Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat & Sun) – all are within walking distance of each
other. It's only a matter of time before taps start flowing in Fort
and Colaba as well. Ubiquitous draught-only craft beer includes
Gateway Brewing Company and Bira 91 ('Bira' meaning 'Bro' in
Punjabi, '91' for the country code!).
The city's signature brew has quickly become Belgian Wit – citrusy and refreshing it's a perfect accompaniment for hot and humid Mumbai. Jai ho!
Kalbadevi to Mahalaxmi
Haji Ali Juice CentreJUICE BAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; Lala Lajpat
Rai Rd, Haji Ali Circle;
h5am-1.30am)
Serves fresh juices and milkshakes (₹80 to ₹380), mighty fine falooda and fruit salads. Strategically placed at the entrance to Haji Ali mosque, it’s a great place to cool off after a visit. Try the Triveni, a gorgeous trifecta of mango, strawberry and kiwi (₹280).
Western Suburbs
oOne Street
OverCOCKTAIL BAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; Navarang
Bldg, 35th Rd, off Linking Rd, Khar West; h7pm-1am
Tue-Sun; W)
With an emphasis on Prohibition-era craft mixology, this shotgun-style cocktail bar (cocktails ₹500 to ₹850), housed where high-class orgies once went down, is currently Khar's drinkery of desire. DJs spin hip-hop to a beautiful and trendy crowd, who are content to gaggle away at the long and sociable central share table over drinks and internationally inspired tapas.
oAerLOUNGE
(
GOOGLE MAP ;
www.fourseasons.com/mumbai;
Four Seasons Hotel, 34th fl, 114 Dr E
Moses Rd, Worli;
h5.30pm-midnight; W)
Boasting astounding sea, sunset and city views, Aer is Mumbai’s premier sky bar. Drink prices are steep (cocktails ₹1000 to ₹1500), but that’s kind of the point. DJs spin house and lounge tunes nightly, including over groovy happy hour sundowner specials, concocted by some of Mumbai's best mixologists.
Monkey BarBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
Summerville, cnr 14th & 33rd Rd,
Linking Rd, Bandra West;
h6pm-1am
Mon-Fri, from noon Sat & Sun; W)
Successful ventures in Delhi and Bangalore led this chill gastropub to Bandra, where scenesters gather on the excellent patio – particularly great when it's pouring rain a metre or so away. Cheekily named cocktails (ask a local to get in on the joke; ₹320 to ₹650) and Gateway Brewing craft beer on tap ensure a fun and festive mood over DJ-spun hip-hop/Latin hits.
Masala BarCOCKTAIL BAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
www.masalabar.co.in;
1st fl, Gagangiri Apt, Carter Rd,
Bandra West; h12.30-4pm
& 5pm-1am)
Take unorthodox ingredients like thyme foam, mudfig purée, orange-skin oil and sattu fizz, then shake, stir, cook or otherwise manipulate them along with alcohol using things like vacuum-sealing machines, rotovaps, siphons, centrifuges and sous-vide machines, and you have an idea of what to expect from the innovative molecular cocktails at this new Bandra hot spot overlooking the beach on Carter Rd. Signature cocktails are ₹550.
Toto’s GarageBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %022-26005494; 30th Rd,
Bandra West; h6pm-1am)
A highly sociable, down-to-earth local dive done up in a car-mechanic theme, where you can go in your dirty clothes, drink draught beer (₹200 a glass) and listen to classic rock. Check out the upended VW Beetle above the bar. It's always busy and has a good mix of guys and gals.
Olive Bar & KitchenBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %022-26058228; www.olivebarandkitchen.com;
14 Union Park, Khar
West; h8pm-1am
daily, plus 12.30-3.30pm Sat & Sun; W)
A perennial watering hole of choice for Bandra’s filmi elite and aspiring starlets, Olive is a Mediterranean-style bar-restaurant whose whitewashed walls, candle-lit terraces and rooms evoke Ibiza and Mykonos. It's the perfect setting for inspired Greek and Italian food (mains ₹600 to ₹1500) and vibing DJ sounds. Thursdays and weekends are packed.
Bad CafeCAFE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
www.thebadcafe.com;
22G Kapadia House, New Kantwadi Rd,
Bandra West; h9am-11pm; W)S
Thoroughly hidden down a quiet lane off Perry Cross Rd, this is the caffeinated stomping grounds of the Bandra cool and creative set. Co-owner and coffee fiend Amit Dhanani sources organic, 80% Arabica beans from South India, which are turned into espressos, ristretto, cortados, flat whites and the like by old-school trained baristas. Porch-swing seating and globally inspired tapas (₹250 to ₹520) encourage lingering.
Cafe ZoeBAR
(
GOOGLE MAP ;
www.cafezoe.in; Mathurdas
Mills Compound, NM Joshi Marg, Lower Parel; h7.30am-1.30am)
This cafe/bar is not merely another unassuming hipster enclave hidden away in the redeveloped cotton mill at Mathurdas Mills Compound. Exposed brick and railing dominate the bi-level space that's long on atmosphere and serves strong, fruit-forward cocktails (₹470 to ₹600) like black grape caipiroskas and watermelon martinis. Old black-and-white photos of its former life dot the walls.
QUEER MUMBAI
Homosexuality remains illegal in India, so Mumbai’s LGBTQ scene is still quite underground, especially for women, but it’s gaining momentum. No dedicated LGBTQ bars/clubs have opened yet, but gay-friendly ‘safe house’ venues often host private gay parties (announced on Gay Bombay).
Humsafar Trust (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %022-26673800; www.humsafar.org; 3rd fl,
Manthan Plaza Nehru Rd, Vakola, Santa Cruz East) Runs tons of programs and workshops; one
of its support groups organises the weekly gathering ‘Friday
Workshop' and another, Umang, organises monthly events (called
'Chill Outs'), workshops and runs a helpline (99300-95856). It’s
also closely connected to the erratically published but pioneering
magazine Bombay Dost (www.bombaydost.co.in).
Gaylaxy (www.gaylaxymag.com) India’s best gay e-zine; well worth consulting and has lots of Mumbai content.
Gay Bombay (www.gaybombay.org) A great place to start, with event listings including meet-ups in Bandra, GB-hosted bar and film nights (including somewhat regular gay Saturday nights at Liquid Lounge in Girgaum Chowpatty), plus hiking trips, picnics and other queer-community info.
Kashish Mumbai International Queer Film Festival (www.mumbaiqueerfest.com) Excellent annual event in May, with a mix of Indian and foreign films; in 2016 182 films from 54 countries were featured.
LABIA (Lesbian & Bisexuals in Action; www.labiacollective.org) Lesbian and bi support group based in Mumbai; provides a counselling service for women.
Queer Azaadi Mumbai (www.queerazaadi.wordpress.com) Organises Mumbai’s Pride Parade (www.mumbaipride.in), which is usually held in early February.
Queer Ink (www.queer-ink.com) Online publisher with excellent books, DVDs and merchandise. Also hosts a monthly arts event with speakers, workshops, poetry, comedy, music and a marketplace.
Salvation Star A Facebook community organising and promoting gay events and parties.