Margao’s best business-class hotel by some margin, Nanutel is modern and slick with a lovely pool, good restaurant, bar and coffee shop, and clean air-con rooms. The location, between the Municipal Gardens and Largo de Igreja district, is convenient for everything.

In a bright-yellow building tucked away behind the Bank of India, Om Shiv does a decent line in fading ‘executive’ rooms, all of which have air-con and balcony. The suites have good views, there’s a gym and the 7th-floor Rockon Pub.

Away from the fray, north of Colva’s main drag on the road running parallel to the beach, Sam’s is a big, cheerful place with friendly owners and spacious rooms that are a steal at this price. Rooms are around a pleasant garden courtyard and there’s a good restaurant and whacky 'cosy cave'. Wi-fi in the restaurant only.

Neat, clean and not entirely devoid of atmosphere. If you’re not desperately seeking anything with character, La Ben has decent, good-value rooms and has been around for ages. A great addition is the adjacent Garden Restaurant ( GOOGLE MAP ; Colva Beach Rd; mains ₹100-320; h7-10am & 6-11pm; W).

A serious step up from the budget places, Skylark’s clean, fresh rooms are graced with bits and pieces of locally made teak furniture and block-print bedspreads, while the lovely pool makes a pleasant place to lounge. The best (and more expensive) rooms are those facing the pool.

With just three rooms, this traditional blue-painted house in the back lanes is run by a local Goan family and comes with bundles of homely atmosphere and a lovely garden. It’s often full so book ahead.

One of a handful of places lining Sernabatim Beach, Anthy’s is a favourite with travellers for its good restaurant, book exchange and well-kept chalet-style rooms, which stretch back from the beach, surrounded by a garden. Ayurvedic massage is available.

Behind the beach shack restaurant a short walk north of the main beach entrance, this group of sturdy palm-thatch cocohuts – not so common around here – are the best in Benaulim, with fan and verandah. The restaurant gets good reviews from guests.

Bollywood stars and sheiks are known to stay at the Taj Exotica, one of Goa’s plushest resorts. Set in 23 hectares of tropical gardens 2km south of Benaulim, it has all the spas, restaurants and pools that you would expect. Most travellers will be content to visit its swish restaurants, including the Goan cuisine of Allegria and the beachfront Lobster Shack.

An ever-popular budget guesthouse set back from the beach, with clean rooms, a good restaurant and obliging staff. Rooftop yoga classes in season.

Beautifully designed and constructed cottages with open-air bathrooms and spring mattresses surround a central bar and restaurant at this stylish beachfront place.

Overlooking the north end of the beach, Chattai offers lovely, airy huts on the sands, and popular yoga classes under its secluded Yoga Dome.

With its purple and mauve muslin curtains and Arabian nights ambience, H2O is among the most impressive of Agonda’s luxury cottage set-ups. From the hotel-style reception, walk through a leafy garden to the spacious cottages with air-con and enormous open-air bathrooms. The more expensive sea-facing cottages with king-size beds may be worth paying extra for.

There's a blue-and-white Kombi parked in the open-air bar and travellers handing around a guitar. The atmosphere is chilled at TBB, an excellent new hostel just off the beach. Spotless four- to 10-bed dorms (no bunks), private rooms and seasonal huts are all good value.

Hidden in the jungle on the Colomb Bay side of Palolem, Sevas has a range of simple palm-thatch huts with open-air bathrooms and larger family huts and rooms set in a lovely shaded garden area.

Ciaran’s has some of the most impressive huts on the beachfront. Affable owner John has worked hard over the years to maintain a high standard and his beautifully designed cottages around a plant-filled garden and pond are top-notch. There’s a popular multicuisine restaurant, tapas restaurant and quality massage and spa centre ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ciaran’s; 1hr massage from ₹1900).

Long-running Cozy Nook, at the northern end of the beach, has some well-designed cottages including two-storey pads, upstairs chill-out deck, more pedestrian rooms and a funky bar. Yoga and kayak rental.

The two stunning rooms above Fern’s restaurant are beautifully designed with heavy timber finishes, huge four-poster beds, TV, modern bathrooms and views to the ocean from the balcony. There are also a couple of cheaper ground-floor cottages.

Perhaps the largest hut resort in Palolem, Dreamcatcher’s 60-plus sturdy huts are nevertheless secluded, set in a coconut grove just back from the far northern end of the beach. One of the highlights here is the riverside restaurant and cocktail bar, and the wide range of holistic treatments, massage and yoga on offer, with drop-in yoga and reiki courses available.

On Colomb Bay, La La Land takes Keralan-style cottages to another level with a range of quirky but stylish huts and A-frame chalets all set in a beautiful garden.

The nicely designed beach-facing cottages around an excellent beachfront restaurant have a Bedouin camp feel with screened sit-outs and modern artworks sprinkled throughout. The resort hosts art exhibitions and has regular live music.

Micky's is an old-timer at the north end of Patnem Beach with a range of simple budget huts (some without attached bath) and rooms. It’s run by a friendly family and open for most of the year. There's a cruisy beachfront bar and cafe.

Solid huts constructed with natural materials head back into the palm grove from Papaya’s popular restaurant, which does great versions of all the beachfront classics. Each hut is lovingly built, with lots of wood, four-poster beds and floating muslin.

This laid-back yoga retreat, exclusive to guests, has a wonderful open-sided shala facing the ocean at the southern end of Patnem Beach, and three more shalas among the village of comfortable timber and thatched huts. Yoga holiday rates include brunch, meditation and two daily yoga classes, but there are also training courses and ayurvedic treatments.