3Entertainment
Mumbai has an exciting live-music scene, some terrific theatres, an emerging network of comedy clubs and, of course, cinemas and sporting action.
Consult Time Out Mumbai (www.timeout.com/mumbai) and Insider (https://insider.in) for events and/or live-music listings. Unfortunately, Hindi films aren’t shown with English subtitles. You can book movies, theatre and sporting events online with Book My Show (https://in.bookmyshow.com).
Royal Opera HouseOPERA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022-23690511; Mama Parmanand Rd; hbox office 11am-6pm)
India's only surviving opera house reopened to suitably dramatic fanfare with a 2016 performance by Mumbai-born British soprano Rozario, after a meticulous six-year restoration project that saw the regal address returned to full British-rule glory. Architect Abha Narain Lambah combed through old photographs of gilded ceilings, stained-glass windows and a baroque Indo-European foyer to restore the three-level auditorium.
Liberty CinemaCINEMA, LIVE MUSIC
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022-22084521; www.thelibertycinema.com; 41/42 New Marine Lines, Fort)
The stunning art deco Liberty was once the queen of Hindi film – think red-carpet openings with Dev Anand. It fell on hard times in recent years, but is on the rebound and now hosts private events and more. It's near the Bombay Hospital.
National Centre for the Performing ArtsTHEATRE, LIVE MUSIC
(NCPA; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.ncpamumbai.com; Marine Dr & Sri V Saha Rd, Nariman Point; tickets ₹150-7500)
This vast cultural centre is the hub of Mumbai’s highbrow music, theatre and dance scene. In any given week, it might host experimental plays, poetry readings, photography exhibitions, a jazz band from Chicago or Indian classical music. Many performances are free. The box office ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022-66223724; www.ncpamumbai.com; Marine Dr & Sri V Saha Rd, Nariman Point; h9am-7pm) is at the end of NCPA Marg.
Regal CinemaCINEMA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022-22021017; www.regalcinema.in; Shahid Bhagat Singh Marg, Regal Circle, Apollo Bunder; tickets ₹100-200)
A faded art deco masterpiece that’s good for Hollywood blockbusters.
Wankhede StadiumSPECTATOR SPORT
(Mumbai Cricket Association; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022-22795500; www.mumbaicricket.com; D Rd, Churchgate; hticket office 9am-6pm)
Test matches and one-day internationals are played a few times a year here in season (October to April). Contact the Cricket Association for ticket information; for a test match you’ll probably have to pay for the full five days.
Prithvi TheatreTHEATRE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022-26149546; www.prithvitheatre.org; Juhu Church Rd, Juhu; tickets ₹175-500)
A Juhu institution that’s a great place to see both Hindi- and English-language theatre or an arthouse film, with the Prithvi Cafe ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.prithvitheatre.org; Juhu Church Rd, Juhu; light meals ₹35-150; h10am-10.45pm) for drinks. Its excellent theatre festival in November showcases contemporary Indian theatre and includes international productions.
ErosCINEMA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.eroscinema.co.in; Maharshi Karve Rd, Churchgate; tickets ₹130-180)
To experience Bollywood blockbusters in situ, the Eros cinema is the place.
Metro BigCINEMA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022-39894040; www.bigcinemas.com; Mahatma Gandhi Rd, New Marine Lines, Fort; tickets ₹150-800)
This grande dame of Bombay talkies has been renovated into a multiplex cinema.
BOLLYWOOD DREAMS
Mumbai is the glittering epicentre of India’s gargantuan Hindi-language film industry. The Lumière brothers screened the first film ever shown in India at the Watson Hotel in Mumbai in 1896, and beginning with the 1913 silent epic Raja Harishchandra (with an all-male cast, some in drag) and the first talkie, Lama Ara (1931), Bollywood now churns out more than 1000 films a year – doubling Hollywood's output, and not surprising considering it has a captive audience of one-sixth of the world’s population.
Every part of India has its regional film industry, but Bollywood continues to entrance the nation with its escapist formula in which all-singing, all-dancing lovers fight and conquer the forces keeping them apart. These days, Hollywood-inspired thrillers and action extravaganzas vie for moviegoers’ attention alongside the more family-oriented saccharine formulas.
Bollywood stars can attain near godlike status in India and star-spotting is a favourite pastime in Mumbai’s posher establishments. You can also see the stars’ homes as well as a film/TV studio with Bollywood Tours ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9820255202; www.bollywoodtours.in; 8 Lucky House, Goa St, Fort; per person 4/8hr tour ₹8000/10,000), but you’re not guaranteed to see a dance number and you may spend much of it in traffic.
Extra! Extra!
Studios sometimes want Westerners as extras to add a whiff of international flair (or provocative dress, which locals often won’t wear) to a film. If you’re game, just hang around Colaba (especially the Salvation Army hostel) where studio scouts, recruiting for the following day’s shooting, will find you.
A day’s work, which can be up to 16 hours, pays around ₹500 (more for speaking roles). You’ll get lunch, snacks and (usually) transport. The day can be long and hot with loads of standing around the set; not everyone has a positive experience.
Complaints range from lack of food and water to dangerous situations and intimidation when extras don’t comply with the director’s orders. Others describe the behind-the-scenes peek as a fascinating experience. Before agreeing to anything, always ask for the scout’s identification and go with your gut feeling.
7Shopping
Mumbai is India’s great marketplace, with some of the best shopping in the country. Spend a day at the markets north of CST for the classic Mumbai shopping experience. Booksellers set up daily on the sidewalks along the main thoroughfare between Colaba and Fort. Snap up a bargain backpacking wardrobe at Fashion Street ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Mahatma Gandhi Rd). Kemp’s Corner and Kala Ghoda have good shops for designer threads.
Colaba
Cottonworld CorpCLOTHING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cottonworld.net; Mandlik Marg, Colaba; h10.30am-8pm Mon-Sat, noon-8pm Sun)
A great shop for stylish Indian-Western-hybrid goods made from cotton, linen and natural materials. Think Indian Gap, but cooler.
PhillipsANTIQUES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.phillipsantiques.com; Wodehouse Rd, Colaba; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat)
Art deco and colonial-era furniture, wooden ceremonial masks, silver, Victorian glass, plus high-quality reproductions of old photos, maps and paintings.
Bungalow 8FASHION & ACCESSORIES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.bungaloweight.com; North Stand, E & F Block, Wankhede Stadium, D Rd, Churchgate; h10.30am-7.30pm)
Original, high-end, artisanal clothing, jewellery, home decor and other objects of beauty under the bleachers of the cricket stadium. Enter via Gate 2 from Vinoo Mankad Rd.
Central Cottage Industries EmporiumARTS & CRAFTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cottageemporium.in; Chhatrapati Shivaji Marg, Apollo Bunder; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat, to 6pm Sun)
Fair-trade-like souvenirs including pashminas.
WORTH A TRIP
BAZAAR DISTRICT
Mumbai’s main market district is one of Asia’s most fascinating, an incredibly dense combination of humanity and commerce that’s a total assault on the senses. If you’ve just got off a plane from the West, or a taxi from Bandra – hold on tight. This working-class district stretches north of Crawford Market up as far as Chor Bazaar, a 2.5km walk away. Such are the crowds (and narrowness of the lanes), you'll need to allow yourself two to three hours to explore it thoroughly.
You can buy just about anything here, but as the stores and stalls are very much geared to local tastes, most of the fun is simply taking in the street life and investigating the souk-like lanes rather than buying souvenirs. The markets merge into each other in an amoeba-like mass, but there are some key landmarks so you can orientate yourself.
Crawford MarketMARKET
(Mahatma Phule Market; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr DN & Lokmanya Tilak Rds; h10.30am-9pm)
Crawford Market is the largest in Mumbai, and contains the last whiff of British Bombay before the tumult of the central bazaars begins. Bas-reliefs by Rudyard Kipling’s father, Lockwood Kipling, adorn the Norman Gothic exterior. Fruit and vegetables, meat and fish are mainly traded, but it’s also an excellent place to stock up on spices.
If you’re lucky to be here during alphonso mango season (May to June) be sure to indulge.
Mangaldas MarketMARKET
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Mangaldas Market, traditionally home to traders from Gujarat, is a mini-town, complete with lanes of fabrics. Even if you’re not the type to have your clothes tailored, drop by DD Dupattawala ( GOOGLE MAP ; %022-22019719; Shop 217, 4th Lane, Mangaldas Market; h11am-8pm Mon-Sat) for pretty scarves and dupattas at fixed prices. Zaveri Bazaar ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) for jewellery and Bhuleshwar Market ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Sheikh Memon St & M Devi Marg; h10am-9pm) for fruit and veg are just north of here.
Just a few metres further along Sheikh Memon St from Bhuleshwar are a Jain pigeon feeding station, a flower market and a religious market.
Chor BazaarANTIQUES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Mutton St, Kumbharwada)
Chor Bazaar is known for antiques, though nowadays much of them are reproductions. The main area of activity is Mutton St, where shops specialise in these ‘antiques’ and miscellaneous junk. Dhabu St, to the east, is lined with fine leather goods.
Fort Area & Churchgate
oContemporary Arts & CraftsHOMEWARES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cac.co.in; 210 Dr Dadabhai Naoroji Rd, Fort; h10.30am-7.30pm)
Modish, high-quality takes on traditional crafts: these are not your usual handmade souvenirs.
oSabyasachiCLOTHING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.sabyasachi.com; Ador House, 6 K Dubash Marg, Fort; h11am-7pm Mon-Sat)
It's worth popping in to this high-end wedding shop to see the space itself, a gorgeous, cavernous, rose-oil-scented stunner chock-full of owner and designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee's collection of chandeliers, antiques, ceramics, paintings and carpets. As far as retail goes it's unlike anything you have ever seen.
ChimanlalsARTS & CRAFTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.chimanlals.com; Wallace St, Fort; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat)
The beautiful traditional printed papers here will make you start writing letters.
FabindiaCLOTHING, HOMEWARES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.fabindia.com; Jeroo Bldg, 137 Mahatma Gandhi Rd, Kala Ghoda; h10am-9pm)S
Ethically sourced cotton and silk fashions and homewares in everybody's favourite modern-meets-traditional Indian shop.
NicobarHOMEWARES, CLOTHING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.nicobar.com; 10 Ropewalk Lane, Kala Ghoda; h11am-8pm)
This new and excellent high-end boutique from the same folks who brought us Good Earth is a great spot to pick up carefully curated homewares, travel totes and select Indian hipsterware.
Bombay Shirt CompanyCLOTHING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022-40043455; www.bombayshirts.com; ground fl, 3 Sassoon Bldg, Kala Ghoda; h10.30am-9pm)
A trendy, bespoke shirt tailor for men and women. You can customise everything (collars, buttons, cuffs and twill tapes), the results are stunning and the prices a fraction of those back home (unless home is Vietnam). Shirts (from ₹2000) take two weeks, and they will deliver or ship internationally. They're also in Bandra ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022-26056125; www.bombayshirts.com; ground fl, Kamal Vishrantee Kutir, 24th Rd, Bandra West; h10.30am-9pm).
Bombay PaperieARTS & CRAFTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022-66358171; www.bombaypaperie.com; 63 Bombay Samachar Marg, Fort; h10.30am-6pm Mon-Sat)
Championing a dying art, this fascinating shop sells handmade, cotton-based paper crafted into charming cards, sculptures and lampshades.
Chetana Book CentreBOOKS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.chetana.com; K Dubash Marg, Kala Ghoda; h10.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat)
This great spirituality bookstore has lots of books on Hinduism, and the attached restaurant does excellent Gujarati and Rajasthani thalis (₹459 to ₹595).
Khadi & Village Industries EmporiumCLOTHING
(Khadi Bhavan; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 286 Dr Dadabhai Naoroji Rd, Fort; h10.30am-6.30pm Mon-Sat)
A dusty, 1940s time warp full of traditional Indian clothing, silk, khadi (homespun cloth) and shoes, plus very popular Khadi natural soaps and shampoos.
Kalbadevi to Mahalaxmi
LM Furtado & CoMUSIC
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022-22013163; www.furtadosonline.com; 540-544 Kalbadevi Rd, Kalbadevi; h10.30am-8pm Mon-Sat)
The best place in Mumbai for musical instruments – sitars, tablas, accordions and local and imported guitars. Another branch under the same Furtados umbrella (but with a slightly different name) is BX Furtado & Sons ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.furtadosonline.com; Lokmanya Tilak Rd; h10.30am-8pm Mon-Sat), located on Lokmanya Tilak Rd.
ShrujanARTS & CRAFTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022-26183104; www.shrujan.org; Hatkesh Society, 6th North South Rd, JVPD Scheme; h10am-7.30pm Mon-Sat)
Nonprofit Shrujan aims to help women from 114 villages in Kutch, Gujarat, earn a livelihood while preserving their spectacular embroidery traditions – the intricate embroidery work sold here (sophisticated clothing, wall hangings and purses) makes great gifts. Shrujan also has a branch in Breach Candy ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022-23521693; www.shrujan.org; ground fl, Krishnabad Bldg, 43 Bhulabhai Desai Marg, Breach Candy; h10am-7.30pm Mon-Sat).
Mini Market/Bollywood Bazaar/Super SaleANTIQUES, SOUVENIRS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9820032923; 33/31 Mutton St; h11am-8pm Sat-Thu)
Sells vintage Bollywood posters and other movie ephemera.
Western Suburbs
oKulture ShopDESIGN
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.kultureshop.in; 241 Hill Rd, Bandra West; h11am-8pm)
Behold Bandra's – and Mumbai's – coolest shop, featuring exclusive graphic art and illustrations sourced from a global army of Indian artists. You'll find thought-provoking and conceptually daring T-shirts, art prints, coffee mugs, notebooks, stationery and other cutting-edge objets d'art.
It's co-owned by well-known American-Indian street artist Jas Charanjiva, her urban culture and design enthusiast husband, and their curator friend.
Indian HippyART
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8080822022; www.hippy.in; 17C Sherly Rajan Rd, Bandra West, off Carter Rd; hby appointment)
Indian Hippy will put your name in lights, with custom-designed vintage Bollywood posters hand-painted on canvas by the original studio artists (a dying breed since the advent of digital illustrating). Bring (or email) a photo and your imagination (or let them guide you). Also sells LP clocks, vintage film posters and all manner of (frankly bizarre) Bollywood-themed products. Portraits cost ₹7500 to ₹15,000. Ships worldwide.
Kishore Silk HouseCLOTHING, HANDICRAFTS
( GOOGLE MAP ; Dedhia Estate 5/353, Bhandarkar Rd, Matunga East; h10am-8.30pm Tue-Sun)
Handwoven saris (from ₹300) and dhotis (from ₹250) from Tamil Nadu and Kerala.
High Street PhoenixMALL
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.highstreetphoenix.com; 462 Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel; h11am-11pm)
High Street Phoenix, one of India's first and largest shopping malls, and its mall-within-a-mall, the luxury-oriented Palladium, is an indoor/outdoor retail orgy that hosts top shops, great restaurants, fun bars and clubs, a 20-lane bowling alley and an IMAX cineplex. It's also where you go when you want a horn-free few hours.
8Information
Emergency
As of 2017, a single number for emergencies (%112) will be in operation across India, though the following will continue to work until 2018.
Ambulance | %102 (public) or %1298 (private) |
Police | %100 |
Fire | %101 |
Internet Access
While cyber cafes are increasingly scarce, all but the simplest hotels, restaurants, cafes and bars now have wi-fi. Commercial establishments generally require a connection via social media accounts or via a mobile phone number, to which a unique one-time password (OPT) is sent.
Media
Newspapers The Hindustan Times is the best paper; its Ht Café insert has a good what’s-on guide.
Websites Time Out Mumbai (www.timeout.com/mumbai) no longer publishes a Mumbai magazine but its website is worth consulting.
Medical Services
Bombay HospitalHOSPITAL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %022-22067676; www.bombayhospital.com; 12 New Marine Lines)
A private hospital with the latest medical technology and equipment.
Breach Candy HospitalHOSPITAL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %022-23672888, emergency 022-23667890; www.breachcandyhospital.org; 60 Bhulabhai Desai Marg, Breach Candy)
The best hospital in Mumbai, if not India. It’s 2km northwest of Girgaum Chowpatty.
Royal ChemistsPHARMACY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.royalchemists.com; 89A Queen's Chambers, Maharshi Karve Rd, Marine Lines; h8.30am-8.30pm Mon-Sat)
Delivers also.
Sahakari Bhandar ChemistPHARMACY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Colaba Causeway & Wodehouse Rd, Colaba; h10am-8.30pm)
Handy Colaba pharmacy.
Money
ATMs are everywhere, and foreign-exchange offices are also plentiful.
Thomas Cook has a branch in the Fort area with foreign exchange.
Post
Main Post OfficePOST
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.indiapost.gov.in; Walchand Hirachand Marg; h9am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 4pm Sun)
The main post office is an imposing building beside CST. Poste restante ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.indiapost.gov.in; Walchand Hirachand Marg; h10am-3pm Mon-Sat) is at the ‘Delivery Department’. Opposite the post office are parcel-wallahs who will stitch up your parcel for between ₹50 and ₹200 (find them under the banyan tree).
Telephone
Call 197 for directory assistance.
Tourist Information
IndiatourismTOURIST INFORMATION
(Government of India Tourist Office; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022-22074333; www.incredibleindia.com; Western Railways Reservation Complex, 123 Maharshi Karve Rd; h8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat)
Provides information for the entire country, as well as contacts for Mumbai guides and homestays. Oddly, branches at the airports had been shut at the time of research.
Maharashtra Tourism Development Corporation Head OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
(MTDC; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022-22845678; www.maharashtratourism.gov.in; Madame Cama Rd, Nariman Point; h10am-5.30pm)
The MTDC’s head office has helpful staff and lots of pamphlets and information on Maharashtra and bookings for MTDC hotels. This is also the only MTDC office of note that accepts credit cards. There are additional booths at Apollo Bunder (MTDC; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022-22841877; www.maharashtratourism.gov.in; Apollo Bunder; h9am-4pm Tue-Sun) and Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (MTDC; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022-22622859; www.maharashtratourism.gov.in; Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat), but airport booths were closed at the time of research.
Travel Agencies
Akbar TravelsTRAVEL AGENCY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022-22823434; www.akbartravels.com; 30 Alipur Trust Bldg, Shahid Bhagat Singh Marg, Colaba; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat)
Extremely helpful and can book long-distance car/drivers and buses with advance notice. Also has good exchange rates. There's another branch in Fort ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022-22633434; www.akbartravels.com; 167/169 Dr Dadabhai Naoroji Rd, Fort; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat).
Thomas CookTRAVEL AGENCY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022-61603333; www.thomascook.in; 324 Dr Dadabhai Naoroji Rd, Fort; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat)
Flight and hotel bookings, plus foreign exchange.
Visas
Foreigners’ Regional Registration OfficeIMMIGRATION
(FRRO; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022-22621169; www.boi.gov.in; Annexe Bldg No 2, CID, Badaruddin Tyabji Marg, near Special Branch; h9.30am-1pm Mon-Fri)
Tourist and transit visas can no longer be extended except in emergency situations; check the latest online.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Mumbai's Chhatrapati Shivaji International Airport ( GOOGLE MAP ; %022-66851010; www.csia.in), about 30km from the city centre, was recently modernised to the tune of US$2 billion. Now handling all international arrivals is the impressive, remodelled international Terminal 2 (T2), which includes India's largest public art program (a skylighted, 3.2km multistorey Art Wall along moving walkways, boasting over 5000 pieces of art from every corner of India).
Domestic flights operate out of both the new T2 and the older Terminal 1B (T1B), also known locally as Santa Cruz Airport, 5km away. An inter-terminal fixed-rate taxi service (₹230 from T1B to T2, ₹245 from T2 to T1B) operates between the terminals. Both terminals have ATMs and foreign-exchange counters, and T2 also houses a luxurious transit hotel.
Air India ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022-27580777, airport 022-28318666; www.airindia.com; Air India Bldg, cnr Marine Dr & Madame Cama Rd, Nariman Point; h9.15am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9.15am-1pm & 2-6pm Sat), Jet Airways ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022-39893333; www.jetairways.com; B1, Amarchand Mansion, Madam Cama Rd, Colaba; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat) and Vistara ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0186-1089999; www.airvistara.com) operate out of T2, while GoAir ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022-26156113; www.goair.in), IndiGo ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %call centre 099-10383838; www.goindigo.in) and SpiceJet ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %airport 0987-1803333; www.spicejet.com) operate out of T1B – be sure to check ahead for any changes on the ground. Travel agencies and the airlines' websites are usually best for booking flights.
There are also normally MTDC tourist information booths at both terminals but these had been removed at the time of research due to the airport renovations, with no planned time frame for their return.
Bus
Numerous private operators and state governments run long-distance buses to and from Mumbai.
Long-distance government-run buses depart from the Mumbai Central bus terminal ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %enquiries 022-23024075; Jehangir Boman Behram Marg, RBI Staff Colony) right by Mumbai Central train station. They’re cheaper and more frequent than private services, but standards are usually lower. The website of the Maharashtra State Road Transport Corporation (MSRTC; %022-23023900; www.msrtc.gov.in) theoretically has schedules and is supposed to permit online booking, though in practice it’s next to useless.
Private buses are usually more comfortable and simpler to book (if a bit more costly). Most depart from Dr Anadrao Nair Rd near Mumbai Central train station, but some buses to southern destinations depart from Carnac Bunder near Crawford Market or Dadar TT Circle (free transport is usually provided to both by ticketing agents). Check departure times and prices with Citizen Travels ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022-23459695; www.citizenbus.com; G Block, Sitaram Bldg, Palton Rd) or National NTT/CTC ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022-23074854, 022-23015652; Dr Anadrao Nair Rd; h6.20am-11.30pm). Fares to popular destinations (like Goa) are up to 75% higher during holiday periods.
Private buses to Goa are more convenient; these vary in price from as little as ₹450 (a bad choice) to ₹1000. Many leave from way out in the suburbs, but Naik Bus ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022-23676840; www.naibus.com; h6pm, 7pm, 8.30pm & 9pm), Paolo Travel ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022-26433023; www.paulotravels.com; h5.30pm & 8pm) and government-run Kadamba Transport ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9969561146; www.goakadamba.com) are convenient for the centre, leaving from in front of Azad Maidan. The trip takes 14 hours.
Private long-distance bus stands and ticket agents are on Palton Road ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Paltan Rd) and Dr Anadrao Nair Road ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Dr Anadrao Nair Rd, RBI Colony).
Major Long-Distance Bus Routes
Destination | Private non-AC/AC sleeper (₹) | Government non-AC (₹) | Duration (hr) |
---|---|---|---|
Ahmedabad | 300-1500/700-1500 | N/A | 7-12 |
Aurangabad | 500-700/500-1300 | 600 (two daily) | 9-11 |
Hyderabad | 800-5000 (all AC) | N/A | 16 |
Mahabaleshwar* | 500-900 (all AC) | 400 (five daily) | 7-8 |
Murud | N/A | 200 (10 daily) | 8-10 |
Nasik | 200-300/500-600 | 290 (half-hourly, 6am-11.15pm) | 13-16 |
Panaji (Panjim) | 600-750/700-3000 | N/A | 14-16 |
Pune* | 508-730/425-2800 | 250 (half-hourly, 6.45am-12.30am) | 3-5 |
Udaipur | 200-812/1000-2500 | N/A | 14-17 |
* Leaves from Dadar TT Circle.
Train
Three train systems operate out of Mumbai, but the most important services for travellers are Central Railways and Western Railways. Tickets for either system can be bought from any station that has computerised ticketing.
Central Railways ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %139; www.cr.indianrailways.gov.in), handling services to the east, south, plus a few trains to the north, operates from CST (also known as ‘VT’). Foreign-tourist-quota tickets and Indrail passes can be bought at Counter 52 on the 1st floor of the reservation centre ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cr.indianrailways.gov.in; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun). There is a prepaid taxi scheme near the MTDC tourist information booth (₹160 to Colaba, ₹360 to Bandra, ₹430 to the domestic terminal and ₹500 to the international terminal).
Some Central Railways trains depart from Dadar (D), a few stations north of CST, or Lokmanya Tilak (LTT), 16km north of CST.
Western Railways ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %139; www.wr.indianrailways.gov.in) has services to the north from Mumbai Central train station, usually called Bombay Central (BCT). The reservation office ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.wr.indianrailways.gov.in; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun), opposite Churchgate station, has foreign-tourist-quota tickets.
Major Trains from Mumbai
Destination | Train No & Name | Sample Fare (₹) | Duration (hr) | Departure |
---|---|---|---|---|
Agra | 12137 Punjab Mail | 613/1596/2281/3856 (A) | 22 | 7.40pm CST |
Ahmedabad | 12901 Gujarat Mail | 348/876/1206/1996 (A) | 9 | 10pm BCT |
12009 Shatabdi Exp | 860/1701 (E) | 7 | 6.25am BCT | |
Aurangabad | 11401 Nandigram Exp | 268/691/961/1571 (A) | 7 | 4.35pm CST |
17617 Tapovan Exp | 173/571 (C) | 7 | 6.15am CST | |
Bengaluru | 11301 Udyan Exp | 533/1416/2031/3421 (A) | 24 | 8.05am CST |
Chennai | 12163 Chennai Exp | 603/1561/2226/3766 (A) | 23½ | 8.30pm CST |
Delhi | 12951 Mumbai Rajdhani | 1856/2641/4481 (D) | 16 | 5pm BCT |
Hyderabad | 12701 Hussainsagar Exp | 458/1191/1671/2781 (A) | 14½ | 9.50pm CST |
Indore | 12961 Avantika Exp | 473/1226/1721/2866 (A) | 14 | 7.10pm BCT |
Jaipur | 12955 Bct Jp Sf Exp | 568/1481/2106/3546 (A) | 18 | 6.50pm BCT |
Kochi | 16345 Netravati Exp | 648/1711/2481 (B) | 25½ | 11.40am LTT |
Madgaon (Goa) | 10103 Mandovi Exp | 423/1131/1601/2661(A) | 12 | 7.10am CST |
12133 Mangalore Exp | 453/1176/1646 (B) | 9 | 10pm CST | |
11085 Mao Doubledeckr | 906 (F) | 12 | 5.33am Wed, Fri & Sun LTT | |
Pune | 11301 Udyan Exp | 173/556/761/1226 (A) | 3½ | 8.05am CST |
Station abbreviations: CST (Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus); BCT (Mumbai Central); LTT (Lokmanya Tilak)
Fares: (A) sleeper/3AC/2AC/1AC; (B) sleeper/3AC/2AC; (C) second class/CC; (D) 3AC/2AC/1AC; (E) CC/Exec CC; (F) CC
8Getting Around
AM-Indicator (http://m-indicator.soft112.com) is an invaluable app for Mumbai public transit – from train schedules to rickshaw fares it covers the whole shebang.
To/From the Airports
Terminal 2
APrepaid Taxi Set-fare taxis cost ₹680/820 (non-AC/AC; including one piece of luggage) to Colaba and Fort and ₹400/480 to Bandra. The journey to Colaba takes about an hour at night (via the Sea Link) and 1½ to two hours during the day.
AAutorickshaw Although available, they only go as far south as Bandra – walk out of the terminal and follow the signs. Prices are ₹18 per kilometre (a traffic warden should keep them honest).
ATrain If you arrive during the day (but not during ‘rush hour’ – 6am to 11am) and are not weighed down with luggage, consider the train: take an autorickshaw to Andheri train station and then the Churchgate or CST train (₹10, 45 minutes).
ATaxi The trip from South Mumbai to the international airport in an AC taxi should cost from ₹650 to ₹800, plus the ₹60 toll if you take the time-saving Sea Link Bridge. Allow two hours for the trip if you travel between 4pm and 8pm. From Colaba, an UberGo is around ₹385 off-peak.
Terminal 1B
ATaxi There’s a prepaid taxi counter in the arrivals hall. A non-AC/AC taxi costs ₹560/683 to Colaba or Fort and ₹283/340 to Bandra (a bit more at night).
AAutorickshaw Alternatively, if it’s not rush hour, catch an autorickshaw (between ₹22 and ₹27) to Vile Parle station, where you can get a train to Churchgate (₹10, 45 minutes).
Boat
PNP ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022-22885220) and Maldar Catamarans ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022-22829695) run regular ferries to Mandwa (one way ₹125 to ₹165), useful for access to Murud-Janjira and other parts of the Konkan Coast, avoiding the long bus trip out of Mumbai. Buy tickets at their Taj Gateway Plaza offices.
Bus
Few travellers bother with city buses but BEST ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.bestundertaking.com) has a useful search facility for hardcore shoestringers and masochists – you’ll also need to read the buses’ Devanagari numerals and beware of pickpockets. Fares start at ₹8.
BEST bus stands are on the east ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.bestundertaking.com) and west ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.bestundertaking.com) sides of Mahatma Gandhi Rd and at CST.
Car & Motorcycle
Cars with drivers can be hired for moderate rates. Air-conditioned cars start at ₹1550/1800 for half-/full-day rental with an 80km limit. For long-distance treks out of Mumbai, prices vary by type of car and service but expect to pay between ₹13 (non-AC) to ₹15 (AC) per kilometre. Clear Car Rental (%8888855220; www.clearcarrental.com) is a handy online car-booking service.
Allibhai Premji Tyrewalla ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022-23099417, 022-23099313; www.premjis.com; 205/20 Dr D Bhadkamkar (Lamington) Rd; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat) Sells new and used motorcycles with a guaranteed buy-back option. Long-term rental schemes (two months or more) start at around ₹35,000, with a buy-back price of around 60% after three months.
Metro
Line 1 of Mumbai’s metro (www.mumbaimetroone.com) opened in 2014, the first of a long-phase project expected to finish by 2020. It connects 12 stations in the far northern suburbs to Ghatkopar Station in the east, mostly well away from anywhere of interest to visitors save the growing nightlife hubs of Andheri West and Versova, accessed by DN Nagar and Versova stations, respectively. However, Line 1 of the monorail was scheduled to be extended south as far as Jacob Circle (5km north of Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus) by early 2017 (after missing deadlines in 2010, 2011 and 2016), bringing it past nightlife hub Lower Parel.
Single fares are based on distance and cost between ₹10 and ₹45, with monthly Trip Passes (₹725 to ₹950) also available. Access to stations is by escalator, carriages are air-conditioned, and there are seats reserved for women and the disabled.
Line 3 (a 33.5km, 27-station underground line connecting Cuffe Pde south of Colaba, all the main railway terminals, Bandra and the airport) is the next line to be constructed. It’s been approved and contracted but won’t open until at least 2020.
Taxi & Autorickshaw
Mumbai’s black-and-yellow taxis are very inexpensive and the most convenient way to get around southern Mumbai; drivers almost always use the meter without prompting. The minimum fare is ₹22 (for up to 1.5km); a 5km trip costs about ₹80. Meru Cabs (%022-44224422; www.merucabs.com) is a reliable call-ahead taxi service.
Game-changing taxi apps in play include Uber (www.ubercom) and Ola (www.olacabs.com); the latter is good for booking autorickshaws as well – no more rickshaw-wallah price gouging!
Autorickshaws are the name of the game north of Bandra. The minimum fare is ₹18, up to 1.5km; a 3km trip is about ₹36 during daylight hours.
Both taxis and autorickshaws tack 50% onto the fare between midnight and 5am.
Tip: Mumbaikars tend to navigate by landmarks, not street names (especially new names), so have some details before heading out.
Train
Mumbai’s suburban train network is one of the world's busiest; forget travelling during rush hours. Trains run from 4am to 1am and there are two main lines of most interest to travellers:
AWestern Line The most useful; operates out of Churchgate north to Charni Rd (for Girgaum Chowpatty), Mumbai Central, Mahalaxmi (for the Dhobi Ghat), Bandra, Vile Parle (for the domestic airport), Andheri (for the international airport) and Borivali (for Sanjay Gandhi National Park), among others. Make sure you don't catch an express train when you need a slow train – the screens dictate this by an 'S' (Slow) or 'F' (Fast) under 'Mode'.
ACentral Line Runs from CST to Byculla (for Veermata Jijabai Bhonsle Udyan, formerly Victoria Gardens), Dadar and as far as Neral (for Matheran).
From Churchgate, 2nd-/1st-class fares are ₹5/50 to Mumbai Central, ₹10/55 to Vile Parle, and ₹15/75 to Borivali. ‘Tourist tickets’ permit unlimited travel in 2nd/1st class for one (₹75/275), three (₹115/440) or five (₹135/515) days.
To avoid the queues, buy a rechargeable SmartCard (₹100, ₹52 of which is retained in credit), good for use on either train line, then print out your tickets at the numerous automatic ticket vending machines (ATVMs) before boarding (place your card on the reader, touch the zone of your station, pick the specific station, choose the amount of tickets, choose 'Buy Ticket' and then 'Print').
Watch your valuables, and gals, stick to the ladies-only carriages except late at night, when it’s more important to avoid empty cars.