Northern Kerala

Kozhikode (Calicut)

icon-phonegif%0495 / Pop 432,100

Northern Kerala's largest city, Kozhikode (still widely known as Calicut), was always a prosperous trading town and was once the capital of the formidable Zamorin dynasty. Vasco da Gama first landed near here in 1498, on his way to snatch a share of the subcontinent for king and country (Portugal that is). These days, trade depends mostly on exporting Indian labour to the Middle East, while agriculture and the timber industry are economic mainstays. For travellers it's mainly a jumping-off point for Wayanad or for the long trip over the ghats to Mysuru (Mysore) or Bengaluru.

36-kozhikode-ind17

Kozhikode (Calicut)

4Sleeping

8Information

8State Bank of IndiaC1

Transport

1Sights

Mananchira Square ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), a large central park, was the former courtyard of the Zamorins and preserves the original spring-fed tank. South of the centre, the 650-year-old Kuttichira Mosque is in an attractive wooden four-storey building that is supported by impressive wooden pillars and painted brilliant aquamarine, blue and white. The central Church of South India ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) was established in 1842 by Swiss missionaries and has unique Euro-Keralan architecture.

About 1km west of Mananchira Sq, Kozhikode Beach is good enough for a sunset promenade.

4Sleeping

Beach HotelHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0495-2762055, 9745062055; www.beachheritage.com; Beach Rd; r incl breakfast ₹3550-3850; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

Built in 1890 to house the Malabar British Club, this is a slightly worn but charming 10-room hotel. Some rooms have bathtubs and secluded sea-facing verandahs; others have original polished wooden floors and private balconies. Restaurant and bar on-site.

Hyson HeritageHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0495-4081000; www.hysonheritage.com; Bank Rd; s/d incl breakfast from ₹3600/4200; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

You get a bit of swank for your rupee at this central business hotel. Rooms are spick and span and shielded from the main road. There's a good restaurant and a gym.

AlakapuriHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0495-2723451; www.hotelalakapuri.com; MM Ali Rd; s/d from ₹750/1800, with AC from ₹1350/1900; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

Built motel-style around a green lawn (complete with fountain!), this place is set back from a busy market area. Various rooms are a little scuffed, but reasonable value, and there's a restaurant and modern bar.

icon-top-choiceoHariviharHOMESTAY$$$

(icon-phonegif%9388676054, 0495-2765865; www.harivihar.com; Bilathikulam; s/d incl meals & yoga €150/230; icon-wifigifW)

In northern Calicut, the ancestral home of the Kadathanadu royal family is as serene as it gets – a traditional Keralan family compound with pristine lawns. The seven rooms are large and beautifully furnished with dark-wood antiques, but this is primarily an ayurvedic and yoga centre, with packages available.

5Eating

Famous for its Malabar cuisine, Calicut is regarded as the foodie capital of northern Kerala.

ZainsSOUTH INDIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0495-2366311; dishes ₹40-180; icon-hoursgifh6am-10pm)

A local favourite for its Malabar dishes, biryanis and snacks, Zains is usually busy in the afternoons and evenings.

icon-top-choiceoParagon RestaurantINDIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Kannur Rd; dishes ₹120-350; icon-hoursgifh8am-midnight, lunch from noon)

You might struggle to find a seat at this always-packed restaurant, founded in 1939. The overwhelming menu is famous for fish dishes such as fish in tamarind sauce, and its legendary chicken biryani.

Salkaram & HutINDIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Beach Rd; mains ₹110-300; icon-hoursgifh7am-10.30pm)

At the back of the Beach Hotel are two restaurants with the same menu: the air-con Salkaram, and the cool open-sided bamboo 'hut' restaurant-bar serving a big range of fish and chicken dishes, and Malabari cuisine. It's a breezy place for an informal lunch or cold beer. Snacks are also served out on the front lawn.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Kozhikode Airport ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.kozhikodeairport.com) is about 25km southeast of the city in Karipur. It serves major domestic routes as well as international flights to the Gulf.

SpiceJet ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.spicejet.com; Kozhikode Airport) has the best domestic connections, with direct flights to Mumbai, Bengaluru and Chennai. Air India ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0495-2771974; 5/2521 Bank Rd, Eroth Centre; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm) flies to Kochi and Coimbatore. Jet Airways ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0495-2712375; Kozhikode Airport) has one daily flight to Mumbai. Flights to Goa go via Bengaluru or Mumbai.

Bus

The new KSRTC bus stand ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Mavoor Rd) has government buses to Bengaluru (₹326 to ₹700, eight hours, 14 daily) via Mysuru (₹195 to ₹400, five hours), Mangaluru (₹240 to ₹340, seven hours, three daily) and to Ooty (Udhagamandalam; ₹130, 5½ hours, 5am and 6.45am). There are frequent buses to Thrissur (₹112, 3½ hours) and Kochi (₹170 to ₹280, four hours, 14 daily). For Wayanad district, buses leave every 15 minutes heading to Sultanbatheri (₹80, three hours) via Kalpetta (₹55, two hours). Private buses for various long-distance locations also use this bus stand.

Train

The train station is 1km south of Mananchira Sq. There are frequent trains to Kannur (2nd class/sleeper/3AC ₹75/140/490, two hours), Mangaluru (sleeper/3AC/2AC ₹165/490/695, five hours), Ernakulam (₹170/490/695, 4½ hours), and all the way to Trivandrum (₹240/650/930, 11 hours).

Heading southeast, trains go to Coimbatore (sleeper/3AC/2AC ₹140/490/695, 4½ hours), via Palakkad.

8Getting Around

Calicut has a glut of autorickshaws and most are happy to use the meter. It costs about ₹40 from the station to the KSRTC bus stand or most hotels. An autorickshaw/taxi to the airport costs around ₹450/650.

MAHé

Mahé is an anomaly in Kerala. On the Malabar Coast about 10km south of Thalassery, Mahé is surrounded by, but not actually part of, Kerala – it's part of the Union Territory of Puducherry (Pondicherry), formerly under French India. Apart from the riverfront promenade with its Parisian-style street lamps, the province is similar to other towns along the Keralan coast, and Malayalam and English are the main languages. The other obvious difference is that there is no restriction on the sale of alcohol here (unlike in Kerala) and sales tax is low. Unsurprisingly, every third shop is an open-fronted liquor store with giant brandname signs!

Wayanad Region

icon-phonegif%04935 & 04936 / Pop 816,600

Many Keralans rate the elevated Wayanad region as the most beautiful part of their state. Encompassing part of a remote forest reserve that spills into Tamil Nadu and Karnataka, Wayanad’s landscape combines mountain scenery, rice paddies of ludicrous green, skinny betel nut trees, bamboo, red earth, spiky ginger fields, and rubber, cardamom and coffee plantations. Foreign travellers stop here on the bus route between Mysuru, Bengaluru or Ooty and Kerala, but it’s still fantastically unspoilt and satisfyingly remote. It's also an excellent place to spot wild elephants.

The 345-sq-km sanctuary has two separate pockets – Muthanga in the east bordering Tamil Nadu, and Tholpetty in the north bordering Karnataka. Three main towns in Wayanad district make good bases and transport hubs for exploring the sanctuary – Kalpetta in the south, Sultanbatheri (Sultan Battery) in the east and Mananthavadi in the northwest – though the best of the accommodation is scattered throughout the region.

36-wayanad-distr-ind17

1Sights & Activities

icon-top-choiceoWayanad Wildlife SanctuaryNATURE RESERVE

(www.wayanadsanctuary.org; entry to each part Indian/foreigner ₹115/300, camera/video ₹40/225; icon-hoursgifh7-10am & 3-5pm)

Entry to both parts of the sanctuary is only permitted as part of a two-hour jeep safari (₹650), which can be arranged at the sanctuary entrances. At the time of research the government was planning to introduce minibuses to supplement the jeeps. Trekking is no longer permitted in the sanctuary. Both Tholpetty and Muthanga close during April, but remain open during the monsoon.

Whether you go to Tholpetty or Muthanga essentially depends on whether you're staying in the north or south of Wayanad, as there's no difference in the chances of spotting wildlife. At both locations arrive at least an hour before the morning or afternoon openings to register and secure a vehicle, as there are a limited number of guides and jeeps permitted in the park at one time.

Thirunelly TempleHINDU TEMPLE

(icon-hoursgifhdawn-dusk)

Thought to be one of the oldest temples on the subcontinent, Thirunelly Temple is 10km from Tholpetty. Non-Hindus cannot enter, but it’s worth visiting for the otherworldly cocktail of ancient and intricate pillars. Follow the path behind the temple to the stream known as Papanasini, where Hindus believe you can wash away all your sins.

Edakkal CavesCAVE

(adult/child ₹20/10, camera ₹30; icon-hoursgifh9am-4pm Tue-Sun)

The highlight of these remote hilltop 'caves' – more accurately a small series of caverns – is the ancient collection of petroglyphs in the top cave, thought to date back over 3000 years. From the car park near Ambalavayal it's a steep 20-minute walk up a winding road to the ticket window, then another steep climb up to the light-filled top chamber. On a clear day there are exceptional views out over the Wayanad district. The caves get crowded on weekends.

Wayanad Heritage MuseumMUSEUM

(Ambalavayal; adult/child ₹20/10, camera/video ₹20/150; icon-hoursgifh9am-5.30pm)

In the small village of Ambalavayal, about 5km from Edakkal Caves, this museum exhibits tools, weapons, pottery, carved stone and other artefacts dating back to the 14th century, shedding light on Wayanad’s significant Adivasi population.

UravuHANDICRAFTS WORKSHOP

(icon-phonegif%04936-231400; www.uravu.net; Thrikkaippetta; icon-hoursgifh8.30am-5pm Mon-Sat)icon-sustainableS

Around 6km from Kalpetta a collective of workers creates all sorts of artefacts from bamboo. You can visit the artists’ workshops, where they work on looms, painting and carving, and support their work by buying vases, lampshades, bangles and baskets.

Kannur Ayurvedic CentreAYURVEDA

(icon-phonegif%9497872562, 9495260535; www.ayurvedawayanad.com; Kalpetta; massage from ₹1200, yoga & meditation ₹1200)

For rejuvenation and curative ayurvedic treatments, visit this excellent small, government-certified and family-run clinic in the leafy backstreets of Kalpetta. Accommodation and yoga classes are available.

Trekking

There are some good opportunities for trekking around the district (though not in the wildlife sanctuary itself), but it's tightly controlled by the Forest Department and various trekking areas open and close depending on current environmental concerns. At the time of research three treks were open: Chembra Peak (but only to the midway point) and Banasura Hills in the south, and Brahmagiri Hills in the north. Permits and guides are mandatory and can be arranged at forest offices in south or north Wayanad or through your accommodation. The standard cost for a permit and guide is ₹2500 for up to five people – try to arrange a group in advance.

4Sleeping & Eating

There's plenty of accommodation in Wayanad's three main towns of Kalpetta, Sultanbatheri and Mananthavadi, but the isolated homestays and resort accommodation scattered throughout the region are much better choices.

Kalpetta

PPS ResidencyHOTEL$

(icon-phonegif%04936-203431; www.ppsresidency.com; Kalpetta; s/d ₹400/500, with AC ₹1320/1540; icon-acongifa)

This friendly budget place in the middle of Kalpetta has a variety of reasonably clean rooms in a motel-like compound, which includes the reasonably popular multicuisine Pankaj restaurant and a beer parlour. Helpful management can arrange trips around Wayanad.

HaritagiriHOTEL$$

(icon-phonegif%04936-203145; www.hotelharitagiri.com; Kalpetta; s/d incl breakfast from ₹1650/2100, with AC from ₹2100/2750; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

Set back from Kalpetta’s busy main streets, this is a comfortable midrange option, with balconied rooms and more private garden cottages. There are two good restaurants, a pool, gym and an ayurvedic 'village' on-site.

Sultanbatheri

Mint Flower ResidencyHOTEL$$

(icon-phonegif%04936-222206, 9745222206; www.mintflowerresidency.com; Sultanbatheri; s/d ₹830/1375, with AC ₹1075/1670)

The budget annexe of Mint Flower Hotel is in great condition. It's no frills but rooms are spotless and come with hot water and TV.

Issac's Hotel RegencyHOTEL$$

(icon-phonegif%04936-220512; www.issacsregency.com; Sultanbatheri; dm ₹250, s/d/tr from ₹1150/1600/1800, with AC from ₹1550/2000/2250; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

This remarkably well-equipped complex near the private bus stand in the town centre has everything from a cinema to a swimming pool at a reasonable price. The air-con 'dorm' has only mattresses on the floor.

Wilton RestaurantMULTICUISINE$$

(icon-phonegif%04936-226444; Kalpetta Rd; mains ₹120-440; icon-hoursgifh7am-10pm)

Wilton's is a stand-out restaurant in Sultanbatheri with an eclectic menu of Indian, Arabian, Asian and burgers served in the air-con upstairs dining room. Downstairs is a snack and sweet shop with pastries, dried fruits and coffee. Snappy service.

Around Wayanad

icon-top-choiceoVarnam HomestayHOMESTAY$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%9745745860, 04935-215666; www.varnamhomestay.com; Kurukanmoola, Kadungamalayil House; s/d r incl meals ₹1500/2600, villa ₹1800/3000; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

This oasis of peace and calm is a lovely place to stay a few kilometres from Katikulam in northern Wayanad. Varghese and Beena will look after you with Wayanad stories, local information and delicious home cooking with organic farm-fresh ingredients. Rooms are in a traditional family home or a newer elevated 'tree-house' villa, and the property is surrounded by jungle and spice plantations.

Ente VeeduHOMESTAY$$

(icon-phonegif%9446834834, 04935-5220008; www.enteveedu.co.in; Panamaram; r incl breakfast ₹2500-5500, with AC ₹3500-4000; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

Secluded and set in a lovely location overlooking sprawling banana plantations and rice paddies, this homestay halfway between Kalpetta and Mananthavadi is definitely worth seeking out. There are several large rooms, two bamboo-lined ones with private balconies, hammocks and wicker lounges to enjoy the sensational views. Lunch and dinner are available. Call to arrange a pick-up.

Greenex FarmsRESORT$$

(icon-phonegif%9645091512; www.greenexfarms.com; Chundale Estate Rd, Moovatty; r ₹2250-7800; icon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

Greenex Farms is a wonderfully remote-feeling place surrounded by spice, coffee and tea plantations about 8km southwest of Kalpetta. Each of the private cottages is individually designed with separate lounge, bathroom, balcony and superb views. Restaurants, campfire, walks and activities.

Jungle Retreat WayanadGUESTHOUSE$$

(icon-phonegif%9742565333; www.jungleretreatwayanad.com; d incl breakfast ₹2500; icon-wifigifW)

The location on the boundary of Tholpetty Wildlife Sanctuary is exceptional and the rooms and cottages comfortable at this jungle guesthouse. The best rooms are the rustic cottages with terraces facing the reserve. Meals are ₹500 extra and a host of activities can be arranged.

icon-top-choiceoTranquilHOMESTAY$$$

(icon-phonegif%04936-220244; www.tranquilresort.com; Kuppamudi Estate, Kolagapara; d incl breakfast ₹11,900-16,500, tree house ₹18,800, tree villa ₹19,350; icon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

This wonderfully serene and exclusive homestay is in the middle of an incredibly lush 160 hectares of pepper, coffee, vanilla and cardamom plantations. The elegant house has sweeping verandahs filled with plants and handsome furniture, and there are two tree houses that may be the finest in the state. A network of marked walking trails meanders around the plantation.

8Information

International ATMs can be found in each of Wayanad's three main towns.

DTPC OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

(icon-phonegif%9446072134; www.wayanadtourism.org; Kalpetta; icon-hoursgifh9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat)

The DTPC has two useful offices in Kalpetta: one in town and the other upstairs at the new bus stand. They have a map and can advise on trekking.

8Getting There & Away

Although remote, Wayanad is easily accessible by bus from Calicut and Kannur in Kerala, and from Mysuru (Karnataka) and Ooty (Tamil Nadu). Buses brave the winding roads – including a series of nine spectacular hairpin bends – between Calicut and Kalpetta (₹65 to ₹95, two hours) every 15 minutes, with some continuing on to Sultanbatheri (₹80 to ₹150, three hours) and others to Mananthavadi (₹87, three hours). Hourly buses run between Kannur and Mananthavadi (₹55, 2½ hours).

From Sultanbatheri, an 8am bus heads out for Ooty (₹100, four hours), with a second one passing through town at around 12.45pm. The Ooty bus leaves Mananthavadi at 11.15am. Buses run from Kalpetta to Mysuru (₹143, four hours, hourly) via Sultanbatheri, but note that the border gate is closed between 7pm and 6am. There are six daily buses to Mysuru (₹167, three hours) on the alternative northern route from Mananthavadi, where the border is open 24 hours.

8Getting Around

The Wayanad district is quite spread out but plenty of private buses connect the main towns of Mananthavadi, Kalpetta and Sultanbatheri every 10 to 20 minutes during daylight hours (₹15 to ₹25, 45 minutes to one hour). From Mananthavadi, regular buses also head to Tholpetty (₹15, one hour). You can hire jeeps or taxis to get between towns for ₹600 to ₹800 each way, or hire a vehicle to tour the region for around ₹2000 per day.

There are plenty of autorickshaws and taxis for short hops within the towns.

Kannur & Around

icon-phonegif%0497 / Pop 1.2 million

Kerala's northern coast is far less touristed than the south, which for many is an attraction in its own right. The main draws in this part of coastal Kerala are the beautiful, undeveloped beaches and the enthralling theyyam possession rituals.

Under the Kolathiri rajas, Kannur (formerly Cannanore) was a major port bristling with international trade – explorer Marco Polo christened it a ‘great emporium of spice trade’. Since then, the usual colonial suspects, including the Portuguese, Dutch and British, have had a go at exerting their influence on the region, leaving behind the odd fort. Today it is an unexciting, though agreeable, town known mostly for its weaving industry and cashew trade.

This is a predominantly Muslim area, so local sensibilities should be kept in mind: wear a sarong over your bikini on the beach.

1Sights

Kannur's main town beach is the 4km-long Payyambalam Beach ( GOOGLE MAP ; beach park ₹10, camera/video ₹25/150; icon-hoursgifh8am-8pm), which starts about 1.5km east of the train station, just past the military cantonment. The beach park gets busy in the evening when families and couples come down to watch the sunset and picnic.

Arakkal MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; Indian/foreigner ₹20/100, camera ₹25; icon-hoursgifh9.30am-5.15pm Mon-Sat)

Housed in part of the royal palace of the Arakkal family, a 16th-century Kannur dynasty, this harbourfront museum features antiques, furniture, weapons, silver and portraits. It's a fascinating look into the life of Kerala's only Muslim royal family.

Kerala Dinesh Beedi Co-OperativeWORKSHOP

(icon-phonegif%0497-2701699; www.keraladinesh.com; icon-hoursgifh8am-6pm Mon-Sat)icon-freeF

The Kannur region is known for the manufacture of beedis, those tiny Indian cigarettes deftly rolled inside green leaves. This is one of the largest and purportedly best manufacturers, with a factory at Thottada, 7km south of Kannur and about 4km from Thottada beach. A skilled individual can roll up to 1000 a day! Visitors are welcome to look around; an autorickshaw should cost around ₹120 return from Kannur town.

THEYYAM

Kerala’s most popular ritualistic art form, theyyam is believed to predate Hinduism, originating from folk dances performed during harvest celebrations. An intensely local ritual, it’s often performed in kavus (sacred groves) throughout northern Kerala.

Theyyam refers both to the shape of the deity/hero portrayed, and to the actual ritual. There are around 450 different theyyams, each with a distinct costume, made up of face paint, bracelets, breastplates, skirts, garlands and exuberant, intricately crafted headdresses that can be up to 6m or 7m tall. During performances, each protagonist loses his physical identity and speaks, moves and blesses the devotees as if he were that deity. Frenzied dancing and wild drumming create an atmosphere in which a deity indeed might, if it so desired, manifest itself in human form.

From November to April there are annual rituals at each of the hundreds of kavus. Theyyams are often held to bring good fortune to important events such as marriages and housewarmings.The best place for visitors to see theyyam is in village temples in the Kannur region of northern Kerala. In peak times (December to February) there should be a theyyam ritual happening somewhere almost every night.

Although tourists are welcome to attend, this is not a dance performance but a religious ritual, and the usual rules of temple behaviour apply: dress appropriately, avoid disturbing participants and villagers; refrain from displays of public affection. Photography is permitted, but avoid using a flash. For details on where and when, ask at your guesthouse or contact Kurien at Costa Malabari.

4Sleeping & Eating

Although there are plenty of hotels in Kannur town, the best places to stay are homestays near the beach at Thottada (8km south) and towards Thalassery.

Kannur Town

Hotel Meridian PalaceHOTEL$

(icon-phonegif%9995999547, 0497-2701676; www.hotelmeridianpalace.com; Bellard Rd; s/d from ₹550/700, deluxe ₹935/1100, with AC ₹1425-1650; icon-acongifa)

In the market area opposite the main train station, this place is hardly palatial but it's friendly enough and offers a cornucopia of clean budget rooms and a Punjabi restaurant.

Hotel Odhen'sINDIAN$

(Onden Rd; mains ₹30-100; icon-hoursgifh8.30am-5pm)

This popular local restaurant in Kannur's market area is usually packed at lunchtime. The speciality is Malabar cuisine, including tasty seafood curries and banana-leaf thalis.

Thottada Beach & Around

Blue Mermaid HomestayHOMESTAY$$

(icon-phonegif%9497300234; www.bluemermaid.in; Thottada Beach; s/d incl breakfast & dinner ₹2500/3500, cottage ₹4000; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

With a prime location among the palms facing Thottada Beach, Blue Mermaid is a charming and immaculate guesthouse with rooms in a traditional home, bright air-con rooms in a newer building and a whimsical stilted 'honeymoon cottage'. Friendly young owners cook up fine Keralan meals.

Waves Beach ResortHOMESTAY$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%9495050850, 9447173889; www.wavesbeachresort.co.in; Adikadalayi, Thottada Beach; s/d incl meals ₹2000/3500; icon-wifigifW)

Crashing waves will lull you to sleep at these very cute hexagonal laterite huts overlooking a semi-private little crescent beach. The welcoming owners, Seema and Arun, also have rooms in two other nearby properties, including cheaper rooms in an old Keralan house.

Costa MalabariGUESTHOUSE$$

(icon-phonegif%0944-7775691, reservations 0484-2371761; www.touristdesk.in; Thottada Beach; d incl meals ₹3000-4000; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

Costa Malabari pioneered tourism in this area and there are three lovely homestay properties just back from Thottada Beach. Costa Malabari 1 has spacious rooms in an old hand-loom factory, while rooms are offered in two other nearby bungalows. The home-cooked Keralan food is included. Manager Kurien is an expert on the theyyam ritual and can help arrange a visit.

Kannur Beach HouseHOMESTAY$$

(icon-phonegif%0497-2708360, 9847184535; www.kannurbeachhouse.com; Thottada Beach; s/d ₹2600/3600)

This original beachfront homestay is a traditional Keralan building with handsome wooden shutters. Rooms are looking a little worn but you can enjoy sensational ocean sunset views from your porch or balcony. A small lagoon separates the house from the beach. Breakfast and dinner included.

Ezhara Beach HouseHOMESTAY$$

(icon-phonegif%0497-2835022; www.ezharabeachhouse.com; 7/347 Ezhara Kadappuram; s/d incl meals from ₹1500/3000; icon-wifigifW)

Fronting the unspoilt Kizhunna Ezhara beach, midway between Kannur and Thalassery railway stations (11km from each), Ezhara Beach House is run by welcoming and no-nonsense Hyacinth. Rooms are simple but the house has character and guests rave about the meals.

Thalassery

Ayisha ManzilHOMESTAY$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%9496189296; www.ayishamanzil.com; Thalassery; d incl meals ₹15,500; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

The four rooms in this 150-year-old heritage homestay are enormous and filled with antique furniture, but most guests come for the Mappila (Muslim) cuisine and the famous cooking classes (₹2500) overseen by Mrs Faiza Moosa. A visit to the local market is part of the culinary experience. Book well ahead.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Kannur International Airport, 25km east of Kannur, is due to open in 2017 and will be the largest in Kerala.

Bus

Kannur has several bus stands: the enormous central bus stand – one of the largest in Kerala – is the place to catch private and some government buses, but most long-distance state buses still also use the KSRTC bus stand near the Caltex junction, 1km northeast of the train station.

There are daily buses to Mysuru (₹203 to ₹298, eight hours, five daily), Madikeri (₹85, 2½ hours, 11am) and Ooty (via Wayanad; ₹221, nine hours, 7.30am and 10pm).

For the Wayanad region, buses leave every hour from the central bus stand to Mananthavadi (₹80, 2½ hours).

For Thottada Beach, take bus 22 or 29 (₹9) from Plaza Junction opposite the train station and get off at Adikadalayi village.

Train

There are frequent daily trains to Calicut (2nd class/AC chair ₹60/295, 1½ hours), Ernakulam (sleeper/3AC/2AC ₹220/540/740, 6½ hours) and Alleppey (₹215/580/830). Heading north there are express trains to Mangaluru (sleeper/3AC/2AC ₹170/540/740, three hours) and up to Goa (sleeper/3AC/2AC ₹350/915/1295, eight hours).

Bekal & Around

icon-phonegif%0467

Bekal and nearby Palakunnu and Udma, in Kerala’s far north, have long, white-sand beaches begging for DIY exploration. The area is gradually being colonised by glitzy five-star resorts catering to fresh-from-the-Gulf millionaires, but it’s still worth the trip for off-the-beaten-track adventurers.

1Sights & Activities

The laterite-brick Bekal Fort ( GOOGLE MAP ; Indian/foreigner ₹15/200; icon-hoursgifh8am-5pm), built between 1645 and 1660, sits on Bekal’s rocky headland. Next door, Bekal Beach ( GOOGLE MAP ; ₹5) encompasses a grassy park and a long, beautiful stretch of sand that turns into a circus on weekends and holidays when local families descend for rambunctious leisure time. Isolated Kappil Beach, 6km north of Bekal, is a lonely stretch of fine sand and calm water, but beware of shifting sandbars.

4Sleeping & Eating

Apart from the five-star Vivanta Taj and Lalit hotels, there are lots of cheap, average-quality hotels scattered between Kanhangad (12km south) and Kasaragod (10km north), with a few notable exceptions.

Nirvana@BekalCOTTAGE$$

(icon-phonegif%0467-2272900, 9446463088; www.nirvanabekal.com; Bekal Fort Rd; d incl breakfast ₹1800-4700; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

Right below the walls of Bekal Fort, these laterite-brick cottages in a beachfront palm-filled garden are the best value in town. Rooms come with air-con and TV, there's a good restaurant, ayurvedic treatments and even a cricket bowling machine!

icon-top-choiceoNeeleshwar HermitageRESORT$$$

(icon-phonegif%0467-2287510; www.neeleshwarhermitage.com; Ozhinhavalappu, Neeleshwar; s/d cottages from ₹13,900/16,600; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

This spectacular beachfront ecoresort consists of 18 beautifully designed thatch-roof cottages modelled on Keralan fisherman's huts but with modern touches like iPod docks and a five-star price tag. Built according to the principles of Kerala Vastu, the resort has an infinity pool, nearly 5 hectares of lush gardens fragrant with frangipani, superb organic food and ayurvedic massage, meditation and yoga programs.

8Getting There & Away

A couple of local trains stop at Fort Bekal station, right on Bekal beach. Kanhangad, 12km south, and Kasaragod, 10km to the north, are major train stops. Frequent buses run from Bekal to both Kanhangad and Kasaragod (around ₹15, 20 minutes), from where you can pick up major trains to Mangaluru, Goa or south to Kochi. An autorickshaw from Bekal Junction to Kappil beach is around ₹80.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

VALIYAPARAMBA BACKWATERS

Kerala's 'northern backwaters' offer an intriguing alternative to better-known waterways down south. This large body of water is fed by five rivers and fringed by ludicrously green groves of nodding palms. One of the nearest towns is Payyanur, 50km north of Kannur. It’s possible to catch the ferry from Kotti, from where KSWTD operates local ferries to the surrounding islands. It’s five minutes’ walk from Payyanur railway station. The 2½-hour trip (₹10) from Kotti takes you to the Ayitti Jetty, 8km from Payyanur, from where you can also catch the return ferry.

You can stay at the peaceful Valiyaparamba Retreat (icon-phonegif%0484-2371761; www.touristdesk.in/valiyaparambaretreat.htm; d incl meals ₹4000), a secluded homestay with simple rooms and stilted bungalows 15km north of Payyanur and 3km from Ayitti Jetty. Kochi’s Tourist Desk also runs day trips on a traditional houseboat around the Valiyaparamba Backwaters.

Bekal Boat Stay ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0467-2282633, 9447469747; www.bekalboatstay.com; Kottappuram, Nileshwar; 24hr cruise ₹6000-8000) is one of the few operators around here to offer overnight houseboat trips in the Valiyaparamba Backwaters. Day cruises (₹4000 for up to six people) are also available. It's around 22km south of Bekal and about 2km from Nileshwar – get off any bus between Kannur and Bekal and take an autorickshaw from there (₹30).

Lakshadweep

Pop 64,500

Comprising a string of 36 palm-covered, white-sand-skirted coral islands 300km off the coast of Kerala, Lakshadweep is as stunning as it is isolated. Only 10 of these islands are inhabited, mostly by Sunni Muslim fishermen, and foreigners are only allowed to stay on a few of these. With fishing and coir production the main sources of income, local life on the islands remains highly traditional, and a caste system divides the islanders between Koya (land owners), Malmi (sailors) and Melachery (farmers). Electricity is supplied by generator.

The real attraction of the islands lies under the water: the 4200 sq km of pristine archipelago lagoons, unspoilt coral reefs and warm waters are a magnet for scuba divers and snorkellers.

Lakshadweep can only be visited on a prearranged package trip. At the time of research, resorts on Kadmat, Minicoy, Kavaratti and Bangaram Islands were open to tourists – though most visits to the islands are boat-based packages that include a cruise from Kochi, island visits, water sports, diving and nights spent on board the boat. At the time of research foreigners were not permitted to stay on Agatti Island but can fly there and take a boat transfer to other islands. Packages include permits and meals, and can be arranged through SPORTS.

4Sleeping & Eating

You can stay on the remote island of Minicoy, the second-largest island and the closest to the Maldives, in modern cottages or a 20-room guesthouse at Minicoy Island Resort (icon-phonegif%0484-2668387; www.lakshadweeptourism.com; s/d with AC from ₹5000/7000; icon-acongifa); book via SPORTS.

Kadmat Beach Resort (icon-phonegif%0484-4011134; www.kadmat.com; 2 night s/d incl meals from ₹11,450/16,050; icon-acongifa) on Kadmat Island has 28 modern, beach-facing cottages, reachable by overnight boat from Kochi or boat transfer from Agatti airport.

There are basic cottages (www.lakshadweeptourism.com; s/d ₹10,000/15,000) and Lakshadweep's most upmarket, newly reopened Bangaram Island Resort (icon-phonegif%0484-2397550; www.bangaram.org; s/d incl meals ₹11,150/16,900) on otherwise uninhabited Bangaram Island, reached by boat from Agatti.

DIVING LAKSHADWEEP

Lakshadweep is a scuba diver’s dream, with excellent visibility and an embarrassment of marine life living on undisturbed coral reefs. The best time to dive is between November and mid-May when the seas are calm and visibility is 20m to 40m. There are dive centres on Bangaram, Kadmat, Kavaratti, Minicoy and Agatti islands (though the last was closed to foreigners at the time of research). SPORTS in Kochi can organise dive packages or courses.

8Information

Permits

All visits require a special permit (one month’s notice), which can be organised by tour operators or SPORTS in Kochi. At the time of research foreigners were allowed to stay at the government resorts on Kadmat, Minicoy, Kavaratti and Bangaram; enquire at SPORTS.

Tourist Information

Mint Valley Travel (icon-phonegif%0484-2397550; www.mintvalley.com; Kochi) Reliable private tour operator.

SPORTS (Society for the Promotion of Recreational Tourism & Sports; GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%9495984001, 0484-2668387; www.lakshadweeptourism.com; PS Parameswaran Rd, Willingdon Island; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm Mon-Sat) In Kochi; the main organisation for tourist information and booking package tours.

8Getting There & Away

Air India flies between Kochi and Agatti Island (from ₹9700 return) daily except Sunday. Boat transport between Agatti and Kadmat, Kavaratti and Bangaram is included in the package tours available.

Six passenger ships – MV Kavaratti, MV Arabian Sea, MV Lakshadweep Sea, MV Bharat Seema, MV Amindivi and MV Minicoy – operate between Kochi and Lakshadweep, taking 14 to 20 hours.

Cruise packages start from a weekend package (adult/child ₹7216/6185) to a five-day, three-island cruise from ₹25,000/18,000.

See the package tour section of www.lakshadweeptourism.com for more details.

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