Namibia

Namibia

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Pop 2.4 million / icon-phonegif%264

Why Go?

Namibia has some of the most stunning landscapes in Africa, and a trip through the country is one of the great road adventures. Natural wonders such as that mighty gash in the earth at Fish River Canyon and the wildlife utopia of Etosha National Park enthral, but it’s the lonely desert roads, where mighty slabs of granite rise out of swirling desert sands, that will sear themselves in your mind. It’s like a coffee-table book come to life as sand dunes in the world’s oldest desert meet the crashing rollers along the wild Atlantic coast.

Among all this is a German legacy, evident in the cuisine and art nouveau–architecture and in festivals such as Windhoek’s legendary Oktoberfest. Namibia is also the headquarters of adventure activities in the region, so whether you’re a dreamer or love hearing the crunch of earth under your boots, travel in Namibia will stay with you long after the desert vistas fade.

When to Go

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A High Season (Jun–Oct)

  • Accommodation is at a premium, especially in Etosha in July and August – book months in advance. Nights can be cold early in the season, while temperatures soar by September.

A Shoulder Season (May & November)

  • Good months for cheaper accommodation and higher availability. Heavy rains sometimes occur in November in intense short bursts. May is mild and a lovely month in which to travel.

A Low Season (Dec–Apr)

  • Some tracks become impassable during the rains that begin in earnest in December. Humidity and high temperatures can make days unpleasant. Apart from a brief high season around Christmas/New Year, prices are low and availability generally high.

Namibia Highlights

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1 Etosha National Park Crouching by a waterhole in one of the world’s premier wildlife venues.

2 Sossusvlei Watching the sun rise from the top of fiery-coloured dunes.

3 Fish River Canyon Hiking through one of Africa’s greatest natural wonders.

4 Twyfelfontein Admiring the ancient petroglyphs of the San people.

5 Kaokoveld Getting off the beaten track (and the sealed road) in a true African wilderness.

6 Caprivi Strip Exploring fabulous wildlife reserves while they’re still quiet.

7 Waterberg Plateau Hiking to the top for breathtaking views, while keeping an eye out for rare sable and roan.

8 Swakopmund Fulfilling your need for adrenaline at the extreme-sports capital of Namibia.

Windhoek

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If Namibia is Africa for beginners, then Windhoek is very much its capital in more than name only. It's the sort of place that divides travellers, with those who love it for the respite it offers from the rigours of life on the African road facing off against those who find it a little too 'Western' for their African tastes. And they're both right: Windhoek is a modern, well-groomed city where office workers lounge around Zoo Park at lunchtime, tourists funnel through Post St Mall admiring African curios and taxis whizz around honking at potential customers. Neobaroque cathedral spires, as well as a few seemingly misplaced German castles, punctuate the skyline, and complement the steel-and-glass high-rises.

Such apparent incongruities aside, Windhoek makes a great place to begin or break a journey through Namibia or rest at journey's end. The accommodation choices, food variety, cultural sights, shopping and African urban buzz give it an edge not found anywhere else in Namibia.

History

The city of Windhoek has existed for just over a century, but its history is as diverse as its population. During the German colonial occupation, it became the headquarters for the German Schutztruppe (Imperial Army), which was ostensibly charged with brokering peace between the warring Herero and Nama in exchange for whatever lands their efforts would gain for German occupation. For over 10 years at the turn of the 20th century, Windhoek served as the administrative capital of German South West Africa.

In 1902, a narrow-gauge railway was built to connect Windhoek to the coast at Swakopmund, and the city experienced a sudden spurt of growth. During this period, Windhoek began to evolve into the business, commercial and administrative centre of the country, although the modern city wasn’t officially founded until 1965.

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Windhoek

1Sights

5Eating

6Drinking & Nightlife

3Entertainment

7Shopping

1Sights

Windhoek is not really known for its tourist attractions, but it is one of Africa's more agreeable cities and if you’re here for a few days and have time to kill, it’s an easy and interesting city for a stroll.

Zoo ParkPARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-hoursgifhdawn-dusk)icon-freeF

Although this leafy park served as a public zoo until 1962, today it functions primarily as a picnic spot and shady retreat for lunching office workers. Five thousand years ago the park was the site of a Stone Age elephant hunt, as evidenced by the remains of two elephants and several quartz tools found here in the early 1960s. This prehistoric event is honoured by the park’s prominent elephant column ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), designed by Namibian sculptor Dörthe Berner.

A rather anachronous mate to the elephant column is the Kriegerdenkmal, topped by a rather frightening golden imperial eagle, which was dedicated in 1987 to the memory of German Schutztruppe soldiers who died in the Nama wars of 1893–94.

icon-top-choiceoChristuskircheCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Fidel Castro St)icon-freeF

Windhoek’s best-recognised landmark, and something of an unofficial symbol of the city, this German Lutheran church stands on a traffic island and lords it over the city centre. An unusual building, it was constructed from local sandstone in 1907 and designed by architect Gottlieb Redecker in conflicting neo-Gothic and art nouveau styles. The resulting design looks strangely edible, and is somewhat reminiscent of a whimsical gingerbread house. The altarpiece, the Resurrection of Lazarus, is a copy of the renowned work by Rubens.

To view the interior, pick up the key during business hours from the nearby church office on Peter Müller St.

Daan Viljoen Game ParkWILDLIFE RESERVE

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-232393; per person/vehicle N$40/10; icon-hoursgifhsunrise-sunset)

This beautiful wildlife park sits in the Khomas Hochland about 18km west of Windhoek. You can walk to your heart’s content through lovely wildlife-rich desert hills, and spot gemsboks, kudus, mountain zebras, springboks, hartebeests, warthogs and elands. Daan Viljoen is also known for its birdlife and over 200 species have been recorded, including the rare green-backed heron and pin-tailed whydah. Daan Viljoen’s hills are covered with open thorn-scrub vegetation that allows excellent wildlife viewing, and three walking tracks have been laid out. There's also an on-site luxury lodge.

The 3km Wag-‘n-Bietjie Trail follows a dry riverbed from near the park office to Stengel Dam. A 9km circuit, the Rooibos Trail crosses hills and ridges and affords great views back to Windhoek in the distance. The 34km Sweet-Thorn Trail circuits the empty eastern reaches of the reserve.

To get to Daan Viljoen, take the C28 west from Windhoek; Daan Viljoen is clearly signposted off the Bosua Pass Hwy, about 18km from the city.

Heinitzburg CastleCASTLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 22 Heinitzburg St)icon-freeF

Uphill from Robert Mugabe Ave are the three Windhoek 'castles', including the 1914 Heinitzburg, which today houses a hotel and fine restaurant. The other castles, Schwerinsburg and Sanderburg, are nearby.

Independence Memorial MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-302236; www.museums.com.na; Robert Mugabe Ave; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun)icon-freeF

Opened in 2014, this museum is dedicated to the country's anticolonial and independence struggle. The first floor tells the story of Namibia under colonial rule, with the next floor up shifting gears to the resistance movement, while the top floor is dominated by the road to independence. Don't miss taking the glass elevator up the outside of the building for great views out over Windhoek. There's a statue of founding president Sam Nujoma outside.

National Museum of NamibiaMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-302230; www.museums.com.na; Robert Mugabe Ave; icon-hoursgifh9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 3-6pm Sat & Sun)icon-freeF

The excellent display on Namibia’s independence at the country’s historical museum provides some enlightening context to the struggles of this young country. But probably the most interesting part of the museum is the rock-art display, with some great reproductions; it would definitely be worth a nose around before heading to see rock art at the Brandberg or Twyfelfontein. It’s housed in Windhoek’s oldest surviving building, dating from the early 1890s; it originally served as the headquarters of the German Schutztruppe.

The rest of the museum contains memorabilia and photos from the colonial period as well as indigenous artefacts. Outside the museum, don’t miss the somewhat incongruous collection of railway engines and coaches, which together formed one of the country’s first narrow-gauge trains.

Owela MuseumMUSEUM

(State Museum; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.museums.com.na; 4 Robert Mugabe Ave; icon-hoursgifh9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 3-6pm Sat & Sun)icon-freeF

Part of the National Museum of Namibia, located about 600m from the main building, exhibits at the Owela Museum focus on Namibia’s natural and cultural history; note it may sometimes close early.

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Central Windhoek

2Activities, Courses & Tours

Trans-Namib Transport MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-2982624; www.museums.com.na; N$5; icon-hoursgifh8am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri)

Windhoek’s beautiful old Cape Dutch–style train station on Bahnhof St was constructed by the Germans in 1912, and was expanded in 1929 by the South African administration. Across the driveway from the entrance is the German steam locomotive Poor Old Joe, which was shipped to Swakopmund in 1899 and reassembled for the treacherous journey across the desert to Windhoek. Upstairs in the train station is the small but worthwhile Trans-Namib Transport Museum outlining Namibian transport history, with a focus on rail transport.

Gathemann’s ComplexHISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Independence Ave)icon-freeF

Along Independence Ave are three colonial-era buildings, all designed by the famous architect Willi Sander. The one furthest south was built in 1902 as the Kronprinz Hotel, which later joined Gathemann House (now home to a gourmet restaurant) to function as a private business. The most notable of the three is the Erkrath Building, which was constructed in 1910 as a private home and business.

Kaiserliche RealschuleHISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Robert Mugabe Ave)icon-freeF

Windhoek’s first German primary school was built in 1908, and opened the following year with a class size of 74 students. Notice the curious turret with wooden slats, which was designed to provide ventilation for European children unaccustomed to the African heat. The building later housed Windhoek’s first German high school and an English middle school, and today it's the administrative headquarters of the National Museum of Namibia.

National Art GalleryGALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Robert Mugabe Ave & John Meinert St; Mon-Fri free, Sat N$20; icon-hoursgifh8am-5pm Tue-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat)

This art gallery contains a permanent collection of works reflecting Namibia’s historical and natural heritage. The collection displays works by Muafangejo – Namibia’s first black artist to gain international acclaim. His linocuts depict the liberation struggle from a religious and narrative perspective.

Owambo Campaign MemorialMONUMENT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Bahnhof St)

At the entry to the train station parking area, you’ll see the Owambo Campaign Memorial, which was erected in 1919 to commemorate the 1917 British and South African campaign against Chief Mandume of the Kwanyama Owambo. Heavily outmatched by the colonial armies, the chief depleted all of his firepower and committed suicide rather than surrendering.

TintenpalastNOTABLE BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-2889111; www.parliament.gov.na; icon-hoursgifhtours 9am-noon & 2-4pm Mon-Fri)icon-freeF

The former administrative headquarters of German South West Africa have been given a new mandate as the Namibian parliament building. As a fitting homage to the bureaucracy of government, the name of the building means ‘Ink Palace’, in honour of all the ink spent on typically excessive official paperwork. The building is remarkable mainly for its construction from indigenous materials.

The surrounding gardens, which were laid out in the 1930s, include an olive grove and a bowling green. In the front, have a look at Namibia’s first post-independence monument, a bronze-cast statue of the Herero chief Hosea Kutako, who was best known for his vehement opposition to South African rule.

TurnhalleHISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Bahnhof St)

The Turnhalle was built in 1909 as a training hall for the Windhoek Gymnastic Club, though in 1975 it was modernised and turned into a conference hall. On 1 September of that year, it served as the venue for the first Constitutional Conference on Independence for South West Africa, which subsequently – and more conveniently – came to be called the Turnhalle Conference. During the 1980s, the building hosted several political summits and debates that paved the way to Namibian independence.

It now houses a tribunal for the Southern Africa Development Community (SADC).

KATUTURA – A PERMANENT PLACE?

In 1912, during the days of the South African mandate – and apartheid – the Windhoek town council set aside two ‘locations’, which were open to settlement by black Africans working in the city: the Main Location, which was west of the city centre, and Klein Windhoek, to the east. The following year, people were forcibly relocated to these areas, which effectively became haphazard settlements. In the early 1930s, streets were laid out in the Main Location and the area was divided into regions. Each subdivision within these regions was assigned to an ethnic group and referred to by that name (eg Herero, Nama, Owambo, Damara), followed by a soulless numerical reference.

In the 1950s the Windhoek municipal council, with encouragement from the South African government (which regarded Namibia as a province of South Africa), decided to ‘take back’ Klein Windhoek and consolidate all ‘location’ residents into a single settlement northwest of the main city. There was strong opposition to the move, and in early December 1959 a group of Herero women launched a protest march and boycott against the city government. On 10 December unrest escalated into a confrontation with the police, resulting in 11 deaths and 44 serious injuries. Frightened, the roughly 4000 residents of the Main Location submitted and moved to the new settlement, which was ultimately named ‘Katutura’. In Herero the name means ‘we have no permanent place’, though it can also be translated as ‘the place we do not want to settle’.

Today in independent Namibia, Katutura is a vibrant Windhoek suburb – Namibia’s Soweto – where poverty and affluence brush elbows. The town council has extended municipal water, power and telephone services to most areas of Katutura, and has also established the colourful and perpetually busy Soweto Market, where traders sell just about anything imaginable. Unlike its South African counterparts, Katutura is relatively safe by day, assuming you can find a trustworthy local who can act as a guide.

The tourist office can book township tours but even better is Katu Tours, which offers guided tours by bike. You get a good taste of township life and the chance to meet plenty of locals; it also includes dropping into Penduka, where local women produce a range of handicrafts and textiles. Tours depart at 8am from Katutura and take 3½ hours.

TTours

Katu ToursTOUR

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%081 303 2856; www.katutours.com; tours per person N$450)

Cycling tours in Katutura, one of Windhoek's most dynamic (and historically, poverty-stricken) neighbourhoods.

icon-top-choiceoCardboard Box Travel ShopTOURS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-256580; www.namibian.org; 15 Bismark St)

Associated with the backpacker hostel of the same name, this recommended travel agency can arrange both budget and upmarket bookings all over the country. Great website, too.

icon-top-choiceoChameleon SafarisSAFARI

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-247668; www.chameleonsafaris.com; Voight St)

This travel agency, attached to the backpacker hostel of the same name, is recommended for all types of safaris around the country.

Kaokohimba SafarisCULTURAL TOUR

(icon-phonegif%065-695106; koos.cuneneiway.na)

Kaokohimba organises cultural tours through Kaokoveld and Damaraland, and wildlife-viewing trips in Etosha National Park.

Magic Bus SafarisBUS

(icon-phonegif%081 129 8093, 061-259485; magicbus@iafrica.com.na)

This small company runs budget trips from Windhoek to Sossusvlei, Etosha and other destinations.

Muramba Bushman TrailsCULTURAL TOUR

(icon-phonegif%067-220659; bushman@natron.net)

This popular company, owned by Reinhard Friedrich in Tsumeb, provides a unique introduction to the Heikum San people.

Wild Dog SafarisADVENTURE

(icon-phonegif%061-257642; www.wilddog-safaris.com)

This friendly operation runs Northern Namibia Adventures and Southern Swings, Etosha or Sossusvlei circuits, as well as longer participation camping safaris and accommodated excursions.

zFestivals & Events

Bank Windhoek Arts FestivalART

(www.bankwindhoek.com.na; icon-hoursgifhFeb-Sep)

This is the largest arts festival in the country, with events running from February to September.

Mbapira/Enjando Street FestivalCARNIVAL

(icon-hoursgifhMar)

Windhoek’s big annual bash is held in March around the city centre. It features colourful gatherings of dancers, musicians and people in ethnic dress.

OktoberfestBEER

(www.windhoekoktoberfest.com; icon-hoursgifhOct)

True to its partially Teutonic background, Windhoek stages this festival towards the end of October – beer-lovers should not miss it.

Independence DayPARADE

(icon-hoursgifh21 Mar)

On 21 March, this national day is celebrated in grand style, with a parade and sports events.

Wild Cinema FestivalFILM

An annual international film festival that takes place in late spring and early summer.

Windhoek Karneval (WIKA)CARNIVAL

(windhoek-karneval.org/en/; icon-hoursgifhApr)

This German-style carnival takes place in late April and features music performances, a masked ball and a parade down Independence Ave.

Windhoek ShowAGRICULTURE

(www.windhoek-show.com; icon-hoursgifhSep-Oct)

In late September or early October the city holds this agricultural show, on the showgrounds ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) near the corner of Jan Jonker and Centaurus Sts.

/AE//Gams Arts FestivalART

(www.facebook.com/AeGamsArtsandCulturalFestival/; icon-hoursgifhOct)

Highlighting Namibian artwork, it’s held in venues around Windhoek in October.

4Sleeping

Whether you bed down in a bunkhouse or a historic castle, Windhoek has no shortage of appealing accommodation options. Compared to the rest of the country, prices in the capital are relatively high, though you can usually be assured of a corresponding level of quality. Note that in a city this small, space is limited, so consider booking your bed well in advance, especially in high season, during holidays or even on busy weekends.

icon-top-choiceoGuesthouse TambotiGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-235515; www.guesthouse-tamboti.com; 9 Kerby St; s/d from N$560/820; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

Hands-down our favourite place in Windhoek to stay, Tamboti is very well priced, has a great vibe and terrific hosts who will go out of their way to ensure you are comfortable (such as driving you to the airport if you have a flight to catch). The rooms here are spacious and well set up – it’s situated on a small hill just above the city centre. Book ahead as it’s popular.

icon-top-choiceoCardboard Box BackpackersHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-228994; www.cardboardbox.com.na; 15 Johann Albrecht St; camping/dm N$90/150, r/tr/q N$450/550/660; icon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

Hostels are hard to come by in this country but ‘The Box’ has been doing it for years, with a rep as one of Windhoek’s better backpackers. It has a fully stocked bar and swimming pool to cool off in, and travellers have a tough time leaving. Rates include free coffee and pancakes in the morning, and there are free pick-ups from the Intercape bus stop.

If you do decide to motivate yourself, the city centre is just a short walk away, and the excellent on-site travel shop gives useful information and can help sort out your future travel plans.

Chameleon Backpackers Lodge & GuesthouseHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-244347; www.chameleonbackpackers.com; 5-7 Voight St; dm/s/d incl breakfast from N$170/280/350; icon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

With a chilled vibe and a considerable range of accommodation options, this Backpackers offers decent-sized, luxurious African-chic rooms and spick-and-span dorms at shoestring prices. There are also three self-catering flats if you’re in town for an extended period. The on-site safari centre offers some of the most affordable trips in Namibia.

Haus Ol-GaGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-235853; www.olga-namibia.de; 91 Bach St; s/d N$450/650)

The name of this German-oriented place is derived from the owners’ names: Gesa Oldach and Erno Gauerke, who go out of their way to provide a good measure of Deutsch hospitality here in Namibia. Haus Ol-Ga enjoys a nice, quiet garden atmosphere in Windhoek West, and is a good choice if you’re looking for accommodation that is more reminiscent of a homestay. It’s like staying at your grandma’s. Rooms are simple, neat and unfussy.

Hotel-Pension SteinerHOTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-222898; www.natron.net/tour/steiner/main.html; 11 Wecke St; s/d from N$660/1020; icon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

Although it has an excellent city-centre location just a few minutes’ walk from Independence Ave, this small hotel-pension is sheltered from the hustle and bustle of the street scene. Simple but comfortable rooms open to a thatched bar and swimming pool, where you can quickly unwind.

Rivendell Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-250006; www.rivendell-namibia.com; 40 Beethoven St; s N$290-700, d N$570-1000; icon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

This homey set-up gets good reviews from travellers. It’s a very relaxed guesthouse located in a shady suburb within easy walking distance of the city centre. Bright and airy rooms open to a lush garden and a sparkling pool; cheaper rooms have shared bathrooms. It’s a good place to try if everywhere is full as the owner will try and help with alternative accommodation. Rates do not include breakfast.

Roof of AfricaHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-254708; www.roofofafrica.com; 124-126 Nelson Mandela Ave; s N$960-1300, d N$1250-1590; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-swimgifs)

A pleasant haven located about 30 minutes by foot from the city centre, Roof of Africa has a rustic barnyard feel, offering well-designed rooms of varying price, size and comfort that attract laid-back travellers looking for a quiet retreat from the city. It’s worth shelling out a few more Namibian dollars for the luxury rooms.

The better rooms come with far more space, sink-in-and-smile beds and modern bathrooms; ask to see a few though, as they do vary.

Vondelhof GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-248320; www.vondelhof.com; 2 Puccini St; s/d/tr N$830/1190/1440; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

This rather grand-looking affair has great-sized rooms; the very friendly staff have a good attitude towards hospitality and serve a decent breakfast. Ask to have a look at a few rooms but we try to snare No 8, which is a beauty. Don’t let the horrible green colour on the outside of the building put you off; the interior is far more palatable.

Casa BlancaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-249623; s/d N$1038/1496; icon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

Styling itself as a boutique hotel, the long-standing White House has good if unexciting rooms – those opening onto the garden are the nicest. They've recently added a nice Moroccan-style teahouse and Jacuzzi near the pool. Street noise can be a problem.

Hotel ThuleHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-371950; www.hotelthule.com; 1 Gorge St; s/d from N$1285/1785; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-swimgifs)

Perched on a hilltop in Eros Park, akin to the Beverly Hills of Windhoek, Hotel Thule commands some of the most impressive views of any hotel in the capital. Cavernous rooms with a touch of European elegance are complemented by a classy restaurant and wraparound sundowner bar where you can sip a cocktail while watching the twinkling lights of the city switch on for the night.

Email the hotel for better rates than listed here.

Belvedere Boutique HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-258867; www.belvedere-boutiquehotel.com; 76 Dr Kwame Nkrumah St; r/ste from N$1650/1875; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

Highly recommended by travellers, the Belvedere has classically styled rooms, quiet grounds and professional service. It's the sort of place that will appeal equally to business travellers and those seeking calm in the big city before heading out into the Namibian wilds.

icon-top-choiceoHotel HeinitzburgHOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-249597; www.heinitzburg.com; 22 Heinitzburg St; s/d from N$2137/3154; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

Inside Heinitzburg Castle, which was commissioned in 1914 by Count von Schwerin for his fiancée, Margarethe von Heinitz, Hotel Heinitzburg is a member of the prestigious Relais & Chateaux hotel group, and far and above the most personable upmarket accommodation in Windhoek. Rooms have been updated for the 21st century with satellite TV and air-con.

Another highlight of the hotel is the palatial dining room, which offers excellent gourmet cuisine and an extensive wine dungeon.

icon-top-choiceoOlive GroveBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-302640; www.olivegrove-namibia.com; 20 Promenaden St; s/d standard N$995/1610, luxury N$1319/2370; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-swimgifs)

Refined elegance is the order of the day at this boutique hotel in Klein Windhoek, which features 10 individually decorated rooms and two suites awash in fine linens, handcrafted furniture and all-around good taste. Guests in need of some pampering can indulge in a massage, or warm their toes on a cold Windhoek night in front of the crackling fire.

If the package here isn’t high-end enough for you, check out its exclusive lodging next door.

Villa VerdiBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-221994; 4 Verdi St; s/d budget N$860/1400, standard N$1280/2200; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

This unique Mediterranean-African hybrid features whimsically decorated rooms complete with original paintings and arty touches. Straddling the divide between midrange and top-end properties, Villa Verdi competes in opulence and class with the bigger hitters on the block, yet offers more affordably priced rooms by targeting the boutique market rather than the tour-group crowd.

Daan Viljoen LodgeLODGE$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-232393; www.sunkarros.com; camping N$260, s/d chalets from N$1774/2818; icon-internetgifi)

Daan Viljoen Lodge provides luxury accommodation within Daan Viljoen Game Park – a refreshing alternative for those who can't handle city life. Chalets have captivating views and private barbecues or you can take advantage of the well-stocked restaurant. Wildlife drives are also available.

5Eating

Namibia’s multicultural capital provides a range of restaurants. It’s worth stretching your budget and indulging in the gourmand lifestyle while you’re in town. Be advised that reservations are a very good idea on Friday and Saturday nights.

Windhoek is a grocery paradise for self-caterers. The big names are Pick & Pay and Checkers.

Namibia Crafts CafeCAFE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Old Breweries Complex, cnr Garten & Tal Sts; mains N$35-90; icon-hoursgifh9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 3.30pm Sat & Sun)

This cafe-restaurant-bar is a great spot to perch yourself above Tal St, checking out the local action and taking in the breeze from the outside deck. The extensive drinks menu includes health shakes and freshly squeezed juices. Meals in the way of salads, large pitas, cold-meat platters, open sandwiches and healthy (or just filling) breakfasts hit the spot.

CheckersSUPERMARKET$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Gustav Voigts Centre; icon-hoursgifh8am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat, to 3pm Sun)

If you're keeping a tight budget, Windhoek is a grocery paradise for self-caterers.

Crafter’s KitchenCAFE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 109 Independence Ave; mains N$30-55; icon-hoursgifh8am-2pm Mon-Sat)

You can shop for handicrafts here and get a bite at the same time from the busy little kitchen which churns out decent fuel, such as toasties, burgers and soups, for locals and tourists alike. Takeaway is available; consider dropping in for the cake and coffee too.

icon-top-choiceoJoe’s BeerhousePUB FOOD$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-232457; www.joesbeerhouse.com; 160 Nelson Mandela Ave; mains N$74-179; icon-hoursgifh4.30-11pm Mon-Thu, 11am-11pm Fri-Sun)

A legendary Windhoek institution, this is where you can indulge (albeit with a little guilt…) in flame-broiled fillets of all those amazing animals you’ve seen on safari! Seriously. We’re talking huge cuts of zebra tenderloin served with garlic butter, ostrich skewers, peppered springbok steak, oryx sirloin, crocodile on a hotplate and marinated kudu steak.

icon-top-choiceoStellenbosch Wine Bar & BistroBISTRO$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-309141; www.thestellenboschwinebar.com; 320 Sam Nujoma Dr; mains N$81-169; icon-hoursgifhnoon-10pm)

When well-to-do locals want an enjoyable night out with the guarantee of good food, this is their number one pick. With a classy outdoor-indoor setting and thoughtfully conceived international food – beef burger with camembert, Bangladeshi lamb curry, crispy pork belly, baked vanilla cheesecake – and excellent service, we can't think of a single good reason not to join them.

La MarmiteAFRICAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-240306; 383 Independence Ave; mains N$100; icon-hoursgifhnoon-2pm & 6-10pm)

Commanding a veritable legion of devoted followers, this humble West African eatery deserves its long-garnered popularity. Here you can sample wonderful North and West African cuisine, including Algerian, Senegalese, Ivorian, Cameroonian (try the curry) and Nigerian dishes, all of which are prepared with the finesse of the finest French haute cuisine. The jolof rice is particularly good.

Café BalalaikaCAFE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%081 648 8577, 061-233479; Zoo Park, Independence Ave; sushi N$80, mains N$80-100; icon-hoursgifh11am-2am; icon-wifigifW)

This sheltered spot beneath a giant rubber tree with an outdoor terrace on the edge of Zoo Park is just lovely for a cappuccino accompanied by a sushi plate. With some decent beer on tap and a large menu covering pizza, salads and meat dishes, it’s a great spot to while away an afternoon. It also morphs into a bar-club in the evening but keeps serving food until the wee hours.

GourmetINTERNATIONAL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-232360; www.thegourmet-restaurant.com; Kaiserkrone Centre, Post St Mall; mains N$65-215; icon-hoursgifh7.30am-10pm Mon-Fri, 8am-10pm Sat)

Tucked away in a peaceful courtyard just off Post St Mall, this alfresco bistro has one of the most comprehensive menus you’ll find. The unifying trend is the use of gourmet ingredients to create a blend of Namibian, German, French and Italian dishes that are as innovative as they are delicious. The word on the street is that it's not what it was, but make up your own mind.

NiceINTERNATIONAL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-300710; cnr Mozart St & Hosea Kutako Dr; mains N$65-130; icon-hoursgifhnoon-2.30pm Mon-Fri, 6-9pm daily)

The Namibian Institute of Culinary Education – or ‘Nice’ for short – operates this wonderfully conceived ‘living classroom’ where apprentice chefs can field test their cooking skills. Spanning several indoor rooms and a beautiful outdoor courtyard, the restaurant itself is more akin to a stylish gallery (think white tablecloths and clinking wine glasses too). The menu is short and targeted (seafood and game meats feature regularly), and service is very good.

O PensadorANGOLAN, SEAFOOD$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-221223; cnr Mandume Ndemufayo Ave & John Meinert St; mains N$130-225; icon-hoursgifh6.30-10pm)

A quality seafood restaurant with a twist of Angolan here and a hint of Portuguese there; the food may not be squirming on your plate but our overall impression was one of freshness, tasty morsels and attentive service.

Shoprite SupermarketSUPERMARKET$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Independence Ave; icon-hoursgifh9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat, 9am-1pm Sun)

One of Windhoek's best supermarkets.

Pick & PaySUPERMARKET$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Wernhill Park Centre; icon-hoursgifh9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat, to 1pm Sun)

Good supermarket in the Wernhil Park Centre

icon-top-choiceoLeo’sINTERNATIONAL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-249597; www.heinitzburg.com; 22 Heinitzburg St; mains N$250; icon-hoursgifhnoon-3pm & 6.30-9pm)

Leo’s takes its regal setting in Heinitzburg Castle to heart by welcoming diners into a banquet hall that previously served the likes of royalty. The formal settings of bone china and polished crystal glassware are almost as extravagant as the food itself, which spans cuisines and continents, land and sea.

icon-top-choiceoRestaurant GathemannNAMIBIAN$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-223853; 179 Independence Ave; mains N$90-250; icon-hoursgifhnoon-10pm)

Located in a prominent colonial building overlooking Independence Ave, this splash-out spot serves gourmet Namibian cuisine that fully utilises the country’s unique list of ingredients. From Kalahari truffles and Owamboland legumes to tender cuts of game meat and Walvis Bay oysters, Restaurant Gathemann satisfies the pickiest of appetites.

SocialINTERNATIONAL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-252946; www.facebook.com/thesocialnamibia/; Liliencron St; mains N$110-230)

A relative newcomer to the Windhoek dining scene, Social already has a loyal following for its contemporary setting and great food – we enjoyed the steak tartare and oryx loin, but we left longing to try the guinea fowl linguine... Service is friendly and they get the mix of classy and casual without seeming to try too hard.

6Drinking & Nightlife

There are a few perennially popular spots where you can enjoy a few drinks and maybe even a bit of dancing. Many restaurants also double as late-night watering holes, particularly tourist-friendly establishments such as Nice, which is also a great spot for a drink. While the nightlife scene in Windhoek is relaxed and generally trouble-free, you should always travel by taxi when heading to and from establishments.

icon-top-choiceoBoiler Room @ The Warehouse TheatreBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-402253; www.warehousetheatre.com.na; 48 Tal St; icon-hoursgifh9pm-late)

From after-work drinks to live music and a crowd that likes to dance, the Boiler Room at the Warehouse is one of the coolest and most versatile places in town – the latter quality makes us think it might just last the distance.

icon-top-choiceoJoe’s Beer HousePUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-232457; www.joesbeerhouse.com; 160 Nelson Mandela Ave; icon-hoursgifhnoon-11pm)

True to its moniker, Joe’s stocks a wide assortment of Namibian and German beers, and you can count on prolonged drinking here until early in the morning. It’s the favoured drinking hole of Afrikaners and something of a Windhoek institution.

Wine BarWINE BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-226514; www.thewinebarshop.com; 3 Garten St; icon-hoursgifh4-10.30pm Mon-Thu, 4-11.30pm Fri, 5-10.30pm Sat)

This bar is in a lovely historic mansion that actually used to store the town’s water supply, but now houses the city’s premium wine selection. Staff here have an excellent knowledge of their products, pairing an admirable South African wine selection with Mediterranean-style tapas and small snacks. It’s a beautiful spot for a glass of wine and a fiery African sunset. There’s a wine shop here too.

Café BalalaikaBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-223479; Zoo Park, Independence Ave; icon-hoursgifh9am-late)

This spot, cafe by day, bar by night, features a terrace with the capital’s largest rubber tree. There's live music and karaoke, and a cool bar scene with some great beer on tap.

Pharaoh LoungeBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 22 Nelson Mandela Ave)

Good for a cocktail and a dance or just a chill out in lounge chairs, this bar is located on the corner of Nelson Mandela and Sam Nujoma Aves.

Club LondonCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%063-225466; Southern Industrial Area, 4 Nasmith St; icon-hoursgifh7pm-late Wed-Sat)

Formerly La Dee Da’s, this relocated club has undergone a makeover. Check out the Facebook page to see whether it's a foam party, glow-stick event or some other inventive idea enticing patrons to show their moves. At other times you can dance to Angolan kizomba (fast-paced Portuguese-African music), hip-hop, rave, traditional African, rock and commercial pop accompanied by special effects.

3Entertainment

Warehouse TheatreTHEATRE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-402253; www.warehousetheatre.com.na; Old South-West Brewery Bldg, 48 Tal St)

This place used to be a warehouse for the breweries but has been converted into a full-scale, state-of-the-art theatre. The industrial interior and versatility of its design makes the Warehouse ideal for staging live African and European music and theatre productions. There’s also a permanent exhibition space and an internet cafe.

College of the Arts (COTA)CLASSICAL MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-374100; 41 Fidel Castro St)

The conservatorium in this college occasionally holds classical concerts.

National Theatre of NamibiaTHEATRE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-234633; www.ntn.org.na; Robert Mugabe Ave)

Located south of the National Art Gallery, the national theatre stages infrequent theatrical performances; for information see the Namibian newspaper.

Ster KinekorCINEMA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%083 330 0360; Maerua Park Centre; icon-hoursgifh9am-8.45pm Sun-Thu, 9am-11pm Fri & Sat)

Off Robert Mugabe Ave, this place shows recent films and has half-price admission on Tuesday.

7Shopping

The handicrafts sold in Post St Mall are largely imported from neighbouring countries, though there is still an excellent selection of woodcarvings, baskets and other African curios on offer. You’re going to have to bargain hard if you want to secure a good price, though maintain your cool and always flash a smile – you’ll win out with politeness in the end! Another spot with a good range of curios is along Fidel Castro St, near the corner of Independence Ave, snaking up the hill towards Christuskirche.

Mall culture is alive and well in Windhoek, and you’ll find them scattered throughout the city centre and out in the ‘burbs. Most of the stores are South African standards, which generally offer high-quality goods at a fraction of the price back home. Katutura’s Soweto Market is more reminiscent of a traditional African market, though it’s best to visit either with a local or as part of an organised tour.

You can find gear for 4WD expeditions at Safari Den ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-2909294; www.agra.com.na/safari-den/; 20 Bessemer St; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat, to noon Sun).

icon-top-choiceoNamibia Crafts CentreARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-242222; Old Breweries Craft Market, 40 Tal St; icon-hoursgifh9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 3.30pm Sat & Sun)

This place is an outlet for heaps of wonderful Namibian inspiration – leatherwork, basketry, pottery, jewellery, needlework, hand-painted textiles and other material arts – and the artist and origin of each piece is documented. We like the root carvings.

icon-top-choiceoPendukaARTS & CRAFTS

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-257210; www.penduka.com; Goreangab Dam; icon-hoursgifh8am-5pm)

Penduka, which means ‘wake up’, operates a nonprofit women’s needlework project at Goreangab Dam, 8km northwest of the city centre. You can purchase needlework, baskets, carvings and fabric creations for fair prices and be assured that all proceeds go to the producers. Ask about their places to stay as an alternative to the city's hotels.

To get here, take the Western Bypass north and turn left on Monte Cristo Rd, left on Otjomuise Rd, right on Eveline St and right again on Green Mountain Dam Rd. Then follow the signs to Goreangab Dam/Penduka.

Old Breweries Craft MarketARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Garten & Tal Sts; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat)

This hive of tourist shopping euphoria contains a heap of small and large shops with a range of African arts and crafts on offer. A couple of our favourite shops are Woven Arts of Africa, with some wonderfully fine weavings in the form of wall hangings and rugs; and ArtiSan, a small, poky shop with genuine Bushmen crafts.

Cymot GreensportSPORTS & OUTDOORS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-234131; 60 Mandume Ndemufayo St; icon-hoursgifh8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat)

This is the place to head for supplies before you head off into the Namibian wilds – it’s good for air compressors, a vital accessory. It is also a supplier of quality camping, hiking, cycling and vehicle-outfitting equipment.

House of GemsJEWELLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-225202; www.namrocks.com; 131 Werner List St; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun)

A reputable shop in Windhoek for buying both raw and polished minerals and gemstones.

Post St MallMALL

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-257210; icon-hoursgifh8am-5pm Mon-Sat)

The throbbing heart of the Windhoek shopping district is the bizarrely colourful Post St Mall, an elevated pedestrian walkway lined with vendors selling curios, artwork, clothing and practically anything else that may be of interest to tourists.

Scattered around the centre of the mall is a display of meteorites from the Gibeon meteor shower, which some time in the distant past deposited upwards of 21 tonnes of mostly ferrous extraterrestrial boulders around the town of Gibeon in southern Namibia.

Cape Union MartSPORTS & OUTDOORS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.capeunionmart.co.za; Maerua Park Centre; icon-hoursgifh9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat, 9am-1pm Sun)

Cape Union Mart, an outpost of the South African chain, has camping, hiking, cycling and vehicle-outfitting gear.

RARE GEMS

The former owner of House of Gems, Sid Pieters, who died in 2003, was once Namibia’s foremost gem expert. In 1974, along the Namib coast, Pieters uncovered 45 crystals of jeremejevite, a sea-blue tourmaline containing boron – the rarest gem on earth. His discovery was only the second ever; the first was in Siberia in the mid-19th century. Another of his finds was the marvellously streaky ‘crocidolite pietersite’ (named for Pieters himself), from near Outjo in North-Central Namibia. Pietersite, a beautiful form of jasper shot through with asbestos fibres, is certainly one of the world’s most beautiful and unusual minerals, and some believe that it has special energy and consciousness-promoting qualities. Other New Age practitioners maintain that it holds the ‘keys to the kingdom of heaven’; stare at it long enough and perhaps you’ll agree.

8Information

Dangers & Annoyances

Central Windhoek is quite relaxed and hassle free. As long as you stay alert, walk with confidence, keep a hand on your wallet and avoid wearing anything too flashy, you should encounter nothing worse than a few persistent touts and the odd con artist.

However, you do need to be especially wary when walking with any kind of bag, particularly on backstreets. Most importantly, don’t use bumbags or carry swanky camera or video totes – they’re all prime targets.

One popular con is for would-be-thieves to play on the conscience of white tourists and get their attention by posing the question, ‘Why won’t you talk to a black man?’ Ignore this and keep walking. As an extra precaution, always travel by taxi at night, even in the wealthy suburbs. The streets in Windhoek are ominously quiet once the sun goes down, which sadly means that foreign tourists quickly become easy targets.

The most likely annoyance for travellers is petty theft, which more often than not occurs at budget hotels and hostels around the city. As a general rule, you should take advantage of the hotel safe, and never leave your valuables out in the open.

If you’re driving, avoid parking on the street, and never leave anything of value visible in your vehicle. Also, never leave your car doors unlocked, even if you’re still in the car: a common ploy is for someone to distract you while someone else opens one of the other doors, grabs a bag and does a runner.

During the day, the safest and most convenient parking is the underground lot beneath the Wernhill Park Centre. At night, you should stay at accommodation that provides off-street secure parking.

The township of Katutura and the northwestern industrial suburbs of Goreangab, Wanaheda and Hakahana are not as dangerous as their counterparts in South Africa, and are reasonably safe during the daytime. However, if you do visit these neighbourhoods, it’s best to either go with a local contact or as part of an organised tour.

Maps

Office of the Surveyor GeneralTOURIST INFORMATION

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-245055; cnr Robert Mugabe Ave & Korn St)

You can purchase topographic sheets of much of Namibia for around US$4 from the map section of the Office of the Surveyor General.

Medical Services

Rhino Park Private HospitalMEDICAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-225434, 061-375000; www.hospital.com.na; Sauer St)

Provides excellent care and service, but patients must pay up front.

Mediclinic WindhoekMEDICAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-4331000; Heliodoor St, Eros; icon-hoursgifh24hr)

Emergency centre and a range of medical services.

Police

Ministry of Home AffairsIMMIGRATION

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-2922111; www.mha.gov.na; cnr Kasino St & Independence Ave; icon-hoursgifh8am-1pm Mon-Fri)

Post

Main Post OfficePOST

( GOOGLE MAP ; Independence Ave; icon-hoursgifh8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, to 11.30am Sat)

The modern main post office can readily handle overseas post. It also has telephone boxes in the lobby.

Telephone

Telecommunications OfficeTELEPHONE

( GOOGLE MAP ; Independence Ave; icon-hoursgifh8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, to 11.30am Sat)

Next door to the main post office is the Telecommunications Office, where you can make international calls and send or receive faxes.

Tourist Information

Namibia Tourism BoardTOURIST INFORMATION

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-2906000; www.namibiatourism.com.na; 1st fl, Channel Life Towers, 39 Post St Mall; icon-hoursgifh8am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat & Sun)

The national tourist office can provide information for all over the country.

Namibia Wildlife ResortsTOURIST INFORMATION

(NWR; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-2857200; www.nwr.com.na; Independence Ave)

The semiprivate Namibia Wildlife Resorts in Windhoek manages a large number of rest camps, campsites and resorts within the national parks. If you haven’t prebooked (eg if you’re pulling into a national park area on a whim), there’s a good chance you’ll find something available on the spot, but have a contingency plan just in case. This is not advised for Etosha or Sossusvlei, which are always busy.

Windhoek Information & Publicity Office (Main Office)TOURIST INFORMATION

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-2902596, 061-2902092; www.cityofwindhoek.org.na; Independence Ave; icon-hoursgifh7.30am-4.30pm)

The friendly staff at this office answer questions and distribute local publications and leaflets, including What’s On in Windhoek and useful city maps. There’s another branch ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Post St Mall; icon-hoursgifh7.30am-noon & 1-4.30pm) in the Post St Mall that is open the same hours but closes from noon to 1pm.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Chief Hosea Kutako International Airport, which is about 40km east of the city centre, serves most international flights into and out of Windhoek. Air Namibia operates flights daily between Windhoek and Cape Town and Johannesburg, as well as daily flights to and from Frankfurt. Direct services to Amsterdam are also due to begin. Several airlines including Air Namibia also offer international services to and from Maun, Botswana, and Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe.

Eros Airport, immediately south of the city centre, serves most domestic flights into and out of Windhoek. Air Namibia offers around three weekly flights to and from Katima Mulilo, Ondangwa, Rundu and Swakopmund/Walvis Bay.

Coming from Windhoek, make sure the taxi driver knows which airport you are going to.

Bus

From the main long-distance bus terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Independence Ave & Bahnhof Sts), the Intercape Mainliner runs to and from Cape Town, Johannesburg, Victoria Falls and Swakopmund, serving a variety of local destinations along the way. Tickets can be purchased either though your accommodation, from the Intercape Mainliner office at the bus terminal or online – given the popularity of these routes, advance reservations are recommended.

There are some useful shuttle services out to Swakopmund and Walvis Bay such as the Town Hoppers (icon-phonegif%081 210 3062, 064-407223; www.namibiashuttle.com), departing daily at 2pm (N$270, 4½ hours) and returning in the morning to Windhoek.

Local combis (minibuses) leave when full from the Rhino Park petrol station ( GOOGLE MAP ) in Katutura (get there very early in the morning), and can get you to most urban centres in central and southern Namibia. For northern destinations such as Tsumeb, Grootfontein and Rundu, you need to go to the local minibus station opposite the hospital on Independence Ave, Katutura.

Generally, combi routes do not serve the vast majority of Namibia’s tourist destinations, which are located well beyond major population centres. Still, they’re a fine way to travel if you want to visit some of the country’s smaller towns and cities, and it’s great fun to roll up your sleeves and jump into the bus with the locals.

Car & Motorcycle

Windhoek is literally the crossroads of Namibia – the point where the main north–south route (the B1) and east–west routes (B2 and B6) cross – and all approaches to the city are extremely scenic, passing through beautiful desert hills. Roads are clearly signposted; those travelling between northern and southern Namibia can avoid the city centre by taking the Western Bypass.

Train

Windhoek train station has a booking office ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-2982175; icon-hoursgifh7.30am-4pm Mon-Fri), where you are able to reserve seats on any of the country’s public rail lines. Routes are varied, and include overnight trains to Keetmanshoop, Tsumeb and Swakopmund, though irregular schedules, lengthy travel times and far better bus connections make train travel of little interest for the majority of overseas travellers.

8Getting Around

ACollective taxis from the main ranks at Wernhill Park Centre follow set routes to Khomasdal and Katutura, and if your destination is along the way, you’ll pay around N$10 to N$25. With taxis from the main bus terminals or by radio dispatch, fares are either metered or are calculated on a per-kilometre basis, but you may be able to negotiate a set fare per journey. Plan on N$70 anywhere around the city.

If you’re arriving at Chief Hosea Kutako International Airport, taxis typically wait outside the arrivals area. It’s a long drive into the city, so you can expect to pay anywhere from N$350 to N$400 depending on your destination. For Eros Airport, fares are much more modest at around N$70. In the city there are always reliable taxis that hang around the tourist office on Independence Ave. If you flag one down off the streets, just be aware there are plenty of cowboys around and often not much English is spoken.

Taxi Stand ( GOOGLE MAP )

North-Central Namibia

When you have little more than a car window separating you from the surrounding white plains, and with a thermos of early morning coffee and cameras ready, there are few places that can match the wildlife prospects of dawn in Etosha National Park. Home to a network of artificial waterholes and naturally up-welling springs, the southern boundary of the Etosha Pan harbours enormous congregations of African animals. Just one day of wildlife watching at a single waterhole can produce literally thousands of sightings, which has justifiably earned Etosha the reputation as one of the best reserves in the world.

Unlike the vast majority of safari parks in Africa, all roads inside Etosha are 2WD accessible and open to private vehicles. This, of course, means that if you’ve been fortunate enough to rent your own vehicle, you’re in for one of the most memorable safaris of your life. Anyone can tell their friends and family back home how quickly their guide spotted a pride of lions, but how many people can say that they drove on the edges of a salt pan while tracking herds of zebra in the distance?

The crown jewel in Namibia’s rich treasure trove of protected areas, Etosha dominates the tourism circuit in North-Central Namibia. However, there are plenty of worthwhile opportunities here for hiking and exploring, and there’s a good chance that the tourist crowds will be elsewhere. If you have the time to spare, don’t overlook the region’s other highlights, which run the gamut from lofty plateaus and art-laden caves to hulking meteorites and dino footprints.

East to Botswana

The seemingly never-ending B6 runs east from Windhoek to the Botswana border, passing through the heart of one of Namibia’s most important ranching centres.Together, the 970 farms of the Omaheke region cover nearly 50,000 sq km, and provide over one-third of Namibia’s beef. While passionate carnivores can certainly rejoice at these numbers, the road east to the Botswana border is a long and monotonous slog – fortunately it is sealed, flat and in excellent condition.

Gobabis

Pop 19,100 / icon-phonegif%062

Gobabis is situated on the Wit-Nossob River, 120km from the Botswana border at Buitepos. The name was meant to be Khoikhoi for ‘place of strife’, but a slight misspelling (Goabbis) renders it ‘place of elephants’, which locals seem to prefer, despite its obvious shortage of elephants.

Although Gobabis is the main service centre of the Namibian Kalahari, there isn’t a lot to look at and, let's face it, noone ever fell in love with Gobabis. The town’s only historic building is the old military hospital, the Lazarett, which once served as a town museum. It’s not officially open, but it's more interesting from the outside anyway.

4Sleeping

Roadside rest stops offer basic but passable accommodation and meals – they're all signposted along the main highway. There are some more interesting options in the hinterland.

Zelda Game & Guest FarmLODGE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%062-560427; www.zeldaguestfarm.com; camping N$70, s/d N$570/920; icon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

The rooms here are a mix of safari chic (think zebra rugs) and grandma decor (chintzy knick-knacks and floral prints); the eclectic blend of styles won't be to everyone's taste. But this is one of the cheaper options in the area and it's all very comfortable. Activities include Bushman walks, and cheetah and leopard feeding.

Harnas Wildlife Foundation & Guest FarmFARMSTAY$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%081 140 3322, 061-228545; www.harnas.org; camping N$270, s/d igloos N$1520/2500, s/d cottages N$1900/3100, self-catering units from N$1800; icon-hoursgifh6am-6pm)

The Harnas Wildlife Foundation & Guest Farm is a rural development project that likens itself to Noah’s Ark. Here you can see wildlife close up, including rescued cheetahs, leopards and lions. A wide range of accommodation is available, including options for full board, and there are plenty of activities here to keep you amused for a couple of days – kids will love it.

Many of the animals here are caged and there's not much that's wild, but since most animals were either orphaned or injured, they would be unable to survive were it not for the foundation. Activities include an afternoon wander through the various enclosures (you'll join the feeding of the mongooses, play with baby cheetahs...), a morning game drive to watch as lions, leopards, cheetahs, African wild dogs and other species are fed, and a lion's-roar sundowner – quite an experience.

To get here, turn north on the C22 past Gobabis and continue for 45km, then drive east on the D1668 for another 45km (following the signs).

Kalahari Bush BreaksLODGE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%062-568936; www.kalaharibushbreaks.com; s/d N$900/1630; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

Some 26km into Namibia west of the Mamuno border post, and 85km east of Gobabis, Kalahari Bush Breaks is a lovely spot run by Elsabe and Ronnie who bring much warmth to the experience of chilling in the Kalahari. The eight rooms are warm and lovingly appointed, four with fabulous views out into the eternity of the Kalahari. There's a stunning swimming pool, good restaurant, and a campsite.

There are some excellent walks on the 50 sq km farm, some ancient rock engravings and you might see one of the free-roaming cheetahs if you're lucky on the 4WD trail.

Kalahari Game LodgeLODGE$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%in South Africa 27-21-880 9870; www.kalaharigamelodge.com.na; s/d with half board N$1250/2050; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

In a remote corner of the Namibian Kalahari, just across the border from the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park shared between Botswana and South Africa, Kalahari Game Lodge has eight lovely chalets and an excellent camping area. Rooms have the whole "wood, linen and colourful throws thing" down pat, while there's a fine restaurant and bar, too. Scenic game drives, lion tracking and night drives are highlights here, and there's a self-guided 4WD trail.

SanDüne LodgeLODGE$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-259293; www.namibiareservations.com/sanduene_lodge_b.html; C22; s N$850-1250, d N$1700-2500)

Part of a 46 sq km farm, SanDüne Lodge has luxury Meru-style safari tents and comfortable standard rooms in the main lodge building. Although quite pricey by Namibian standards, they're a steal when compared with similar places in Botswana.

8Getting There & Away

Public transport is unreliable along this route, and it’s recommended that you head east from Windhoek in a private vehicle. If you’re planning on crossing into Botswana in a rental car, be sure in advance that all of your paperwork is in order.

Buitepos

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Buitepos, a wide spot in the desert at the Namibia–Botswana border crossing, is little more than a petrol station and customs and immigration post. The border opens from 7am to midnight, though you should try to cross with plenty of daylight since it’s a long drive to Ghanzi, the next settlement of major size along the Trans-Kalahari Hwy in Botswana.

4Sleeping

East Gate Service Station & Rest CampCAMPGROUND$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%062-560405; www.eastgate-namibia.com; Trans-Kalahari Hwy; camping N$120, cabins without bathroom per person N$180, 2-person bungalows N$750-1400; icon-acongifaicon-swimgifs)

The East Gate Service Station & Rest Camp rises from the desert like a mirage, and is a decent enough place to crash if you’re not particularly fussy. The restaurant serves simple roadside fare such as burgers, but you'll appreciate it as it's the only place on either side of the border for a square meal.

8Getting There & Away

There is no cross-border public transport. You may find buses or combis travelling between here and Gobabis or (at a stretch) Windhoek. To cross the border, you'll need to walk or hitch, and catch onward transport once in Botswana.

North to Etosha

The immaculate B1 heads north from Windhoek, and provides access to Outjo as well as Tsumeb and Grootfontein. Prominent towns in their own right, together they serve as the launching point for excursions into nearby Etosha National Park. While it’s very tempting to strike north with safari fever, it’s definitely worth slowing down and taking a bit of time to explore the quirky sights of this comparatively untouristed section of North-Central Namibia.

Okahandja

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Okahandja is a busy little place, but not as busy as Windhoek – it's far more manageable than the capital and it makes a great alternative staging post, especially for forays further north to Etosha and west to Swakopmund.

From the mid-19th century to the early 20th century, the town served as a German-run mission and a colonial administrative centre, remnants of which still dot the town centre.

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Okahandja

1Sights

4Sleeping

1Sights

FriedenskircheCHURCH

(Church of Peace; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Kerk St; icon-hoursgifhdawn-dusk)

In the churchyard and across the road from the 1876 Friedenskirche are the graves of several historical figures, including Herero leader Willem Maherero, Nama leader Jan Jonker Afrikaner and Hosea Kutako, the ‘father of Namibian independence’, who was the first politician to petition the UN against the South African occupation of Namibia.

German FortHISTORIC BUILDING

( GOOGLE MAP )

The German fort was built in the 19th century and is an important local landmark.

MoordkoppieHISTORIC SITE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

The historical animosity between the Nama and the Herero had its most emphatic expression at the Battle of Moordkoppie (Afrikaans for ‘Murder Hill’) on 23 August 1850. During the battle, 700 Herero under the command of chief Katjihene were massacred by Nama forces. Half of the victims were women and children, whose bodies were dismembered for the copper bangles on their arms and legs. The scene of this tragedy was a small rocky hill near the centre of town between the B2 and the railway line, 500m north of the Gross Barmen turn-off.

zFestivals & Events

Maherero DayCULTURAL

(icon-hoursgifhAug)

On the weekend nearest 26 August is Maherero Day, which is when the Red Flag Herero people meet in traditional dress in memory of their fallen chiefs, killed in battles with the Nama and the Germans. A similar event is held by the Mbanderu, or Green Flag Herero, on the weekend nearest 11 June.

4Sleeping & Eating

Sylvanette Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%062-505550; www.sylvanette.com; Anderson St; s/d from N$480/700; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

This cosy guesthouse is located in a quiet, garden-like suburban setting and centred on a refreshing swimming pool surrounded by all manner of potted plants. Well-priced rooms pay tribute to the wilds of Namibia with ample animal prints, although the proliferation of zebra stripes in some rooms can start to do your head in after a while...

Okahandja Country HotelHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%062-504299; www.okahandjahotel.com; camping N$140, s/d N$885/1520)

This big old stalwart is a great bastion of hospitality. The stone buildings with sweeping thatched roofs stay cool in summer and have plenty of room. The rooms are a little old-fashioned but large and comfortable, while the grounds are a green oasis in an otherwise dusty setting, it’s 2km north of town, opposite the D2110 turnoff.

Bäckerei Dekker & CaféBAKERY$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Martin Neib St; meals & snacks N$25-50; icon-hoursgifh6.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat)

This German cafe and bakery serves tasty breakfasts and lunches including toasties, bread rolls, sandwiches, salads, freshly made pies, a cold platter and game steaks, along with hot and cold drinks.

8Getting There & Away

Bus

Intercape Mainliner buses make the trip between Windhoek and Okahandja (from N$342, one hour, one to two daily). Book your tickets in advance online as this service continues on to Victoria Falls and fills up quickly.

Okahandja is a minor public-transport hub, serving various regional destinations by combi (minibus). Combis also run up and down the B1 with fairly regular frequency, and a ride between Windhoek and Okahandja shouldn’t cost more than N$160.

Car

Okahandja is 70km north of Windhoek on the B1, the country’s main north–south highway.

Train

Trans-Namib operates trains between Windhoek and Okahandja (from N$155, two hours, daily except Saturday), though the limited early-morning and late-night departures are inconvenient for most.

Erongo Mountains (Erongoberg)

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The volcanic Erongo Mountains, often referred to as the Erongoberg, rise as a 2216m massif north of Karibib and Usakos. Among the most beautiful and accessible of Namibia's mountain areas, the Erongo range is best known for its caves and rock art, particularly the 50m-deep Phillips Cave.

Black rhinos and the rare black-nosed impala have been released into the Erongo Conservancy, a 30-farm area in the heart of the range, although both can be difficult to spot. For more information on the rhino, contact the Erongo Mountain Rhino Sanctuary Trust (EMRST; www.foerderverein-emrst.de).

History

After the original period of volcanism here, some 150 million years ago, the volcano collapsed on its magma chamber, allowing the basin to fill with slow-cooling igneous material. The result is a hard granite-like core, which withstood the erosion that washed away the surrounding rock. Much later in prehistory, the site was occupied by the San, who left behind a rich legacy of cave paintings and rock art that has weathered remarkably well throughout the ages.

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Phillips CaveCAVE

( GOOGLE MAP ; day permit N$50)

This cave, 3km off the road, contains the famous humpbacked white elephant painting. Superimposed on the elephant is a large humpbacked antelope (perhaps an eland), and around it frolic ostriches and giraffes. The Ameib paintings were brought to attention in the book Phillips Cave by prehistorian Abbè Breuil, but his speculations about their Mediterranean origins have now been discounted. The site is open to day hikers via Ameib Gästehaus.

The Ameib picnic site is backed up by outcrops of stacked boulders, one of which, the notable Bull’s Party, resembles a circle of gossiping bovines. Other formations that are often photographed include one resembling an elephant’s head and another that recalls a Herero woman in traditional dress, standing with two children.

The path to the cave is fairly rugged – it should take around 45 minutes to an hour uphill and around 30 minutes coming back down.

4Sleeping

There aren't many places to stay in the area, but what there is does a good job of spanning budgets – there's camping up to a luxury lodge.

Erongo Plateau CampCAMPGROUND$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-570837; www.erongo.iway.na/camp/camp.html; camping N$120)

This appealing campsite has four sites with fine views out over the plains and mountains. Sites have hot and cold showers, toilets, fireplaces (firewood costs N$25 a bundle) and a tap. Hiking trails and excursions to nearby rock-art sites are highlights.

Ameib GästehausGUESTHOUSE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%081 857 4639; www.ameib.com; camping N$150, s/d from N$750/1400; icon-swimgifs)

At the base of the Erongo foothills, this historic guest farm offers accommodation in the farmhouse, adjacent to a landscaped pool, a lapa (a circular area with a fire pit, used for socialising) and the well-maintained campsite. Ameib Gästehaus owns the concessions on Phillips Cave, and issues permits for the sight in addition to guided hikes and day tours.

The ‘Green Hill’ Ranch was established in 1864 as a Rhenish mission station.

Camp MaraCAMPGROUND, GUESTHOUSE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-571190; www.campmara.com; camping N$150, s/d with half board N$1025/1750)

This lovely spot by a (usually dry) riverbed has shady, well-tended campsites, as well as eclectic but extremely comfortable rooms with whitewashed walls and creative use of wood in the decor. Activities include day tours into the mountains and Bushman activities.

icon-top-choiceoErongo Wilderness LodgeLODGE$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-239199, 064-570537; www.erongowilderness-namibia.com; tented bungalows with full board s/d from N$2975/5000; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-swimgifs)

This highly acclaimed wilderness retreat combines spectacular mountain scenery, wildlife viewing, birdwatching and environmentally sensitive architecture to create one of Namibia’s most memorable lodges. Accommodation is in one of 10 tented bungalows, which are built on wooden stilts among towering granite pillars crawling with rock hyrax. The restaurant overlooks a water hole where you might see kudus or genets.

When you’re not lounging in front of the fireplace in the main lodge, you can take a guided walk (cost included in the full-board price) or a nature drive (N$485). Birders will enjoy the fact that rosy-faced lovebirds, Hartlaub's francolin and freckled nightjars are often seen in the area.

To get to the lodge, go to Omaruru, turn west on the D2315 (off the Karibib road 2km south of town) and continue for 10km.

8Getting There & Away

North of Ameib, the D1935 skirts the Erongo Mountains before heading north into Damaraland. Alternatively, you can head east towards Omaruru on the D1937. This route virtually encircles the Erongo massif and provides access to minor 4WD roads into the heart of the mountains.

Omaruru

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Omaruru’s dry and dusty setting beside the shady Omaruru riverbed lends it a real outback feel and it sits in the heart of some interesting country between Erongo and Okonjima. The town has a growing reputation as an arts-and-crafts centre and in recent years has become home to the Artist Trail, an annual arts event; you can pick up a free copy of the program of events around town.

The town itself is a welcoming little oasis with some great accommodation options, good food and one of the very few wineries in the country – there are few experiences as surreal as enjoying a platter of meats and cheeses under trees while wine tasting in the Namibian outback.

1Sights

Kristall Kellerei WineryWINERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-570083; www.kristallkellerei.com; icon-hoursgifh8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, to 12.30pm Sat)

One of the very few wineries in Namibia, this is a lovely spot to come for lunch. In the afternoon you can enjoy light meals – cheese and cold-meat platters – while tasting their wines and other products, and take a tour of the gardens. Apart from schnapps, the winery produces Colombard, a white wine, and Paradise Flycatcher, a red blend of ruby cabernet, cabernet sauvignon and Tinta Barocca. The winery is 4km east of Omaruru on the D2328.

Franke TowerHISTORIC SITE

( GOOGLE MAP )

In January 1904 Omaruru was attacked by Herero forces under chief Manassa. German captain Victor Franke, who had been engaged in suppressing an uprising in southern Namibia, petitioned Governor Leutwein for permission to march north and relieve the besieged town. After a 20-day, 900km march, Franke arrived in Omaruru and led the cavalry charge, which defeated the Herero attack. For his efforts, Franke received the highest German military honours, and in 1908 the grateful German residents of Omaruru erected the Franke Tower in his honour.

The tower, which was declared a national monument in 1963, holds a historical plaque and affords a view over the town. It’s normally locked, though if you want to climb it you can pick up a key at the Central Hotel.

zFestivals & Events

Artist TrailART

(www.facebook.com/omaruruartisttrail/; icon-hoursgifhSep)

Omaruru has been home to the Artists Trail since 2007, marking it as Namibia’s artist town. Music and dance events feature over three days in September, along with food and wine, jewellery, photography and painting.

White Flag Herero DayCULTURAL

(icon-hoursgifhOct)

Each year on the weekend nearest to 10 October the White Flag Herero people hold a procession from the Ozonde suburb to the graveyard, opposite the mission station, where their chief Wilhelm Zeraua was buried after his defeat in the German-Herero wars.

4Sleeping

Central Hotel OmaruruHOTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-570030; www.centralhotelomaruru.com; Wilhelm Zeraua St; s/d from N$600/900; icon-acongifaicon-swimgifs)

This place is the town’s focal point for eating and drinking, and has rondavels (round huts) in the huge garden – they are simple concrete set-ups with small beds, clean linen and good bathrooms. The dining room may well be the only show in town in the evening for dinner. Fortunately, the standard of food is pretty good for a remote pub – there are German favourites plus local game dishes (mains N$80).

Kashana HotelHOTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-571434; www.kashana-namibia.com; Dr I Scheepers St; r per person from N$480; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

Offering a swag of accommodation, upmarket Kashana has luxury bungalows and spare but nicely furnished rooms set around a large shady courtyard. In the main building is a bar and restaurant. Also based here is a goldsmith and a shop selling herbal products.

River GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-570274; www.river-guesthouse.com; 134 Dr I Scheepers St; campsites N$120, s/d/f N$530/830/1050; icon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

The camping here is the best in town, with some great shady trees to pitch a tent under and excellent facilities including fireplaces and power outlets. You may just have the family dogs keeping you company as well. The rooms are tidy and comfortable, and surround a shady courtyard well set up for relaxing.

5Eating

Omaruru Souvenirs & KaffestubeCAFE, SOUVENIRS$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-570230; Wilhelm Zeraua St; meals N$20-55)

The building housing this intimate cafe dates from 1907. This place is a good choice for a strong cup of coffee and traditional German baked goods, as well as for a cold pint of Hansa and some pub grub in the outdoor beer garden. The pies are especially good.

icon-top-choiceoMain Street CafeCAFE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-570303; Wilhelm Zeraua St; mains from N$35; icon-hoursgifh8am-3pm; icon-wifigifW)

Quiche, hazelnut cheesecake, white-wood furniture...what's not to like about this fine little lunch and breakfast spot that makes a priority of fresh ingredients and friendly service? Oh, and there's great coffee, art on the walls, free wi-fi and so much more.

7Shopping

CmArte GalleryARTS & CRAFTS

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-570017; Wilhelm Zeraua St; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm)

This arts-and-crafts outlet has some really good crafts, including some from local artists, alongside imported antiques from both Angola and the DRC. It’s worth sticking your nose in here and having a good rummage around, as you just may find a gem. We like some of the black-and-white wildlife sketches, both framed and unframed.

8Getting There & Away

With your own vehicle, the paved C33 passes through Omaruru, and provides the quickest route between Swakopmund and Etosha.

Uis

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Just over an hour’s drive from Omaruru, Uis is a small, dusty settlement that’s at a handy crossroads for those heading north through Damaraland, or southwest to the Skeleton Coast or Swakopmund.

4Sleeping

White Lady B&BB&B$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-504102; uiswhiteladyguesthouse.com; camping N$100, s/d incl breakfast N$702/1042; icon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

At the welcoming White Lady B&B, simple, well-kept rooms are a good size, and the small orderly campsite has some shady trees. Dinner is also available.

Brandberg Rest CampCAMPGROUND, GUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-504038; www.brandbergrestcamp.com; camping N$100, dm/s/d N$200/600/900)

A fairly basic in-town choice that could serve as a base for visiting the Brandberg, this rest camp has fairly standard accommodation that won't win any style awards but is clean and ample for a night. The campsites lack any sense of being out in the Namibian wilds, but are otherwise fine.

8Getting There & Away

There's no public transport to/from Uis – you'll need your own vehicle to get here and to explore the surrounding area.

Kalkfeld

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Around 200 million years ago, Namibia was covered in a shallow sea, which gradually filled with wind-blown sand and eroded silt. Near the tiny town of Kalkfeld, these sandstone layers bear the evidence of a 25m-long dinosaur stroll – quite a sight.

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Dinosaur FootprintsHISTORIC SITE

( GOOGLE MAP ; N$20)

The 170-million-year-old dinosaur footprints were made in what was then soft clay by a three-toed dinosaur that walked on its hind legs – probably a forerunner of modern birds. The footprints, which were declared a national monument in 1951, are on a farm 29km from Kalkfeld, just off route D2414.

4Sleeping

Otjihaenamparero FarmFARMSTAY$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%067-290153; www.dinosaurstracks.com/home.html; camping N$100, s/d N$440/760)

Aside from hosting the dinosaur tracks, Otjihaenamparero Farm has a three-room guesthouse offering B&B; dinner can be organised for an additional cost (N$180). There’s also a small campground.

Mt Etjo Safari LodgeLODGE$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%067-290173; www.mount-etjo.com; 4-person campsite N$420, per person r/ste/villa N$1665/1800/3178; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-swimgifs)

The Mt Etjo Safari Lodge, in the heart of the private Okonjati Game Reserve, provides access to a small set of dinosaur tracks, which are located on the edge of the appropriately named Dinosaur Campsite. Accommodation is either in the main safari lodge, an upmarket affair that benefits from the beauty of the surrounding nature, or in the expensive but entirely private campsite, a few kilometres down the road.

‘Mt Etjo’ means place of refuge, and refers to the nearby table mountain. It could also refer to the rescued lions and cheetahs that inhabit the farm – watching them being fed is one of the activities here. Other possibilities include rhino tracking and visits to a local school.

Mt Etjo's place in history was sealed in April 1989 when the Mt Etjo Peace Agreement was signed, ending the South-West African People’s Organisation’s (Swapo) liberation struggle and setting the stage for Namibian independence the following March.

The lodge is 35km from Kalkfeld via the D2414 and the D2483 – just follow the brightly painted signs.