Victoria Falls
Victoria Falls Highlights
Seventh Natural Wonder of the World
Zambia
Livingstone
Zimbabwe
Victoria Falls (Town)
Victoria Falls
Why Go?
Taking its place alongside the Pyramids and the Serengeti, Victoria Falls (Mosi-oa-Tunya – the ‘smoke that thunders’) is one of Africa’s original blockbusters. And although Zimbabwe and Zambia share it, Victoria Falls is a place all of its own.
As a magnet for tourists of all descriptions – backpackers, tour groups, thrill seekers, families, honeymooners – Victoria Falls is one of Earth’s great spectacles. View it directly as a raging mile-long curtain of water, in all its glory, from a helicopter ride or peek precariously over its edge from Devil's Pools; the sheer power and force of the falls is something that simply does not disappoint.
Whether you’re here purely to take in the sight of a natural wonder of the world, or for a serious hit of adrenalin via rafting or bungee jumping into the Zambezi, Victoria Falls is a place where you're sure to tick off numerous items from that bucket list.
When to Go
AJul–Dec The season for whitewater rafting, especially August for hard-core rapids.
AFeb–Jun Don’t forget your raincoat as you'll experience the falls at their full force.
AJul–Sep You'll get the best views of the falls, combined with lovely weather and all activities to keep you busy.
Best Places to Sleep
Victoria Falls Highlights
1 Victoria Falls National Park Taking in the full force of the falls with unobstructed views.
2 Devil’s Pool Experiencing the world’s most extreme infinity pool.
3 Whitewater rafting Taming Grade-5 rapids along the Zambezi.
4 Scenic flights Taking the ‘flight of the angels’ helicopter ride over Victoria Falls.
5 Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park Tracking white rhino on foot on a walking safari.
Seventh Natural Wonder of the World
Victoria Falls is the largest, most beautiful and most majestic waterfall on the planet, and is the Seventh Natural Wonder of the World as well as being a UNESCO World Heritage Site. A trip to Southern Africa would not be complete without visiting this unforgettable place.
Up to one million litres of water fall – per second – down a 108m drop along a 1.7km wide strip in the Zambezi Gorge; it's an awesome sight. Victoria Falls can be seen, heard, tasted and touched; it is a treat that few other places in the world can offer, a 'must see before you die' spot.
Victoria Falls is spectacular at any time of year, yet varies in the experiences it offers.
THE FALLS VIEWING SEASON
Though spectacular at any time of year, the falls has a wet and dry season and each brings a distinct experience.
When the river is higher and the falls fuller it’s the Wet, and when the river is lower and the falls aren’t smothered in spray it’s the Dry. Broadly speaking, you can expect the following conditions during the year:
January to April The beginning of the rainy season sees the falls begin their transitional period from low to high water, which should give you decent views, combined with experiencing its famous spray.
May to June Don't forget your raincoat, as you're gonna get drenched! While the falls will be hard to see through the mist, it'll give you a true sense of its power as 500 million litres of water plummets over the edge. The mist during this time can be seen from 50km away. If you want views, don't despair, this is the best time for aerial views with a chopper flight taking you up and over this incredible sight.
July to October The most popular time to visit, as the mist dissipates to unveil the best views and photography options from directly across the falls, while the volume maintains its rage to give you an idea of its sheer force – but only from the Zimbabwe side. However, those on the Zambian side will be able to experience Devil's Pool, which is accessible from August.
November to January The least popular time to visit, as temperatures rise and the falls are at their lowest flow. But they're impressive nevertheless, as the curtain of water divides into sections. The advantage of this time of year is you're able to swim right up to the edge of Devil's Pool on the Zambian side.
2Activities
While it's the falls that lures travellers to the region, its awesome outdoor adventure scene is what makes them hang around. From world-class whitewater rafting, bungee jumping and high-adrenalin activities, to scenic flights and walking with rhinos, Victoria Falls is undoubtedly one of the world's premier adventure destinations.
CHOOSING AN OPERATOR
To get the best value out of your time here, look into packages that combine rafting with various adrenaline leaps, slides and swings. Most prices quoted exclude national park and visa fees, so confirm any extra costs at the time of booking.
Note you'll need to bring along your passport for all activities on the bridge, including walks, bungee jumping, and the scenic railway, among others.
A number of operators on both sides of the border offer activities such as walking and interacting with captive lions, a highly contentious subject and not recommendable given serious ethical concerns.
Costs are fairly standard across the board and activities can be booked through tour operators, guesthouses or hotels.
In Zimbabwe the main operators are:
In Zambia:
Abseiling
Strap on a helmet, grab a rope and spend the day rappelling down the 54m sheer drop cliff face of Batoka Gorge from US$55.
Birdwatching
Twitchers will want to bring binoculars to check out 470 species of bird that inhabit the region, including Schalow's turaco, Taita falcon, African finfoot and half-collared kingfisher. Spot them on foot in the parks or on a canoe trip along the Zambezi.
Bridge Walk
For those not interested in flinging themselves off a bridge (aka bungee jumping), walking along it offers a good alternative. Strapped in with a harness, the guided tours take the walkways running just beneath the Victoria Falls Bridge, and offer a good way to learn about this engineering marvel, as well as providing fantastic photo ops. It's US$65 per person. Don't forget your passport.
Bungee Jumping & Bridge Swing
One of the most famous bungee jumps in the world, the leap here is from atop of the iconic Victoria Falls bridge, plunging 111m into the Zambezi River. It's a long way down, but man it's a lot of fun. It costs US$160 per person.
Otherwise there's the bridge swing where you jump feet first, and free fall for four seconds; you’ll end up swinging, but not upside down. There are two main spots: one right off the Victoria Falls Bridge, and the other a bit further along the Batoka Gorge. Costs for single/tandem are US$160/240.
Combine bungee with a bridge swing and bridge slide, and it'll cost US$210.
Canoeing & Kayaking
If whitewater rafting isn't for you, there's more relaxed guided canoe trips along the Upper Zambezi River on two-person inflatable canoes. Options include half (US$110) or whole day (US$125 to US$155) trips, and overnight jaunts (US$250 to US$285) and longer trips are available.
There's even more relaxed three-hour guided sunset river float trips where you can kick back and let someone else do the paddling for US$100, including refreshments.
On the Zambian side, take on the Zambezi's raging rapids in an inflatable kayak on a full-day trip (US$155).
Crocodile Cage Diving
On the Zimbabwe side of the falls, bring along your bathers for a close encounter with a Nile croc, where you plunge within the safety of a cage into a croc-filled enclosure wearing a mask and breathing apparatus. It costs US$70
Cultural Activities
Spend an evening by a campfire drumming under the Southern African sky, which includes a traditional meal, for US$25 for an hour. On the Zimbabwe side you can visit a local's home for a meal for lunch (US$23) or dinner (US$25)
Fishing
Grab a rod and cruise out to the Zambezi for the opportunity to reel in a mighty tiger fish, for around US$125 for a half day, and US$255 for a full day, which includes beer, fuel and transfers; lunch is provided for whole day trips.Get in touch with Angle Zambia for more info.
Hiking
There's a good choice of guided walks in the area. One of the most popular treks is the trek down Batoka Gorge to the Boiling Pot (US$48) where you can get up close and personal with Victoria Falls. You can only do this from late August to December.
Horse Riding
Indulge in a bit of wildlife spotting from horseback along the Zambezi. Rides for 2½ hours cost US$100, and full-day trips for experienced riders are US$155.
Jet Boating
Power straight into whirlpools! This hair-raising trip costs US$120, and is combined with a cable-car ride down into the Batoka Gorge.
Quadbiking
Discover the spectacular landscape surrounding Livingstone, Zambia, and the Batoka Gorge, spotting wildlife as you go on all-terrain quad bikes. Trips vary from ecotrail riding at Batoka Land to longer-range cultural trips in the African bush. Trips are one hour (US$95) or 2½ hours (US$165).
Rafting
This is one of the best whitewater rafting destinations in the world, both for experienced rafters and newbies. Rafting can be done on either side of the Zambezi River, so it doesn't matter what side of the border you're on – you’ll find Grade 5 rapids. Expect very long rides with huge drops and big kicks; it's not for the faint-hearted.
The best time for rafting is between July and mid-February (low water season); peak season is around August to October. Day trips run between rapids 1 and 21 (to rapid 25 on the Zambian side), covering a distance of around 25km.
The river fills up between mid-February and July (high water season), when day trips move downstream from rapids 11 to 25, covering a distance of around 18km. Only half-day trips are offered during this time. The river will usually close for its ‘off season’ around April or May, depending on the rain pattern for the year.
Trips are cheaper on the Zimbabwe side, costing about US$120 (versus US$160 in Zambia), but Zambia has the benefit of the cable car (and a few additional rapids) as opposed to the steep climb out on the Zimbabwe side.
Overnight and multiday jaunts can also be arranged.
An add-on activity to rafting is riverboarding, which is basically lying on a boogie board and careering down the rapids. A package including rafting for a half/full day is US$170/190. Otherwise get in touch with Bundu Adventures about its hydrospeed surfing trips, where you can ride rapid number 2 on an Anvil board for US$70 for three hours.
River Cruises
River cruises along the Zambezi range from breakfast cruises to civilised jaunts on the grand African Queen and all-you-can-drink sunset booze cruises. Prices range from US$48 to US$85, excluding park fees. They're great for spotting wildlife, though some tourists get just as much enjoyment out of the bottomless drinks. Highly recommended.
Scenic Flights
Just when you thought the falls couldn't get any more spectacular, discover the 'flight of angels' helicopter ride that flies you right by the drama for the undisputed best views available. Rides aren't cheap, but they're worth it. Zambezi Helicopter Company and Bonisair in Zimbabwe, and United Air Charter and Batoka Sky in Zambia all offer flights. Flights cost from US$150 for 15 minutes over the falls, with longer trips available to take in the surrounding area.
On the Zambian side you can take a microlight flight with Batoka Sky, which offers another way to get fabulous aerial views.
Steam Train Journeys
To take in the romance of yesteryear, book yourself a ride on a historical steam train on the Bushtracks Express, a 1953 class 14A Garratt steam train that will take you over the iconic Victoria Falls bridge at sunset with gourmet canapés and unlimited drinks. It's US$125 (including transfers, alcohol and snacks), with departures on Tuesday and Friday either at 5pm or 5.30pm; check the website for the latest schedule. Even if you're not booked on a trip it's worth getting along to the station to watch the drama of its departure.
In Zambia the Royal Livingstone Express takes you on a 3½-hour ride including five-course dinner and drinks on a 1924 10th-class or 12th-class steam engine. The journey takes you to through Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park on plush leather couches, en route to the Victoria Falls Bridge for a sundowner. It's priced at $180 per person, including return transfers within Livingstone.
Wildlife Safaris
There are plenty of options for wildlife watching in the area, both in the national park in the immediate area, or further afield. There are also several private game reserves in the area.
In Zambia the game reserve section of Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park is home to white rhino, and hence a popular spot to tick off that last member from the big five in the wild. You're able to track them on foot for US$80 per person (including park fees), but you can only do this as part of a walking tour. Get in touch with Livingstone Rhino Walks or Savannah Southern Safaris for bookings; note that you need to be over 12 years of age.
The Zambezi National Park in Zimbabwe is much bigger in scale and has a greater diversity of wildlife (including a few cats) and some wonderful lodges and campsites along the Zambezi.
On both sides of the border river cruises (from US$48) along the Zambezi River are another popular way to see various wildlife including elephants, hippos and plenty of birdlife.
Another convenient option, only 15km from Victoria Falls town, is the Stanley and Livingstone Private Game Reserve. Set on a 4000-hectare private reserve here you can track the Big Five, including black rhino that have been translocated from Hwange National Park. A standard three-hour game drive costs US$100, or you can do a night drive and a bush dinner (US$137).
Hwange National Park
(
GOOGLE MAP ; www.zimparks.org; national
parks accommodation per day guests/nonguests
US$10/20; 
hmain gate
6am-6pm) in Zimbabwe is
the other option, with one of the largest number of elephants in
the world, as well as good sightings of predators. A day trip will
cost around US$220 (minimum four people), or otherwise it's a
two-hour bus ride away.
You can travel further afield, with operators arranging day trips to Chobe National Park in Botswana for US$160 (excluding visas). It's only a one-hour drive from Victoria Falls, and includes a breakfast boat cruise, a game drive in Chobe National Park, lunch and transfer back to Victoria Falls by 5pm. Wildlife viewing is excellent: lions, elephants, wild dogs, cheetahs, buffaloes and plenty of antelopes.
Zipline, Flying Fox & Gorge Swings
Glide at 106km/h along a zipline (single/tandem US$69/111), or soar like a superhero from one country to another (from Zim to Zam) on the 'bridge slide' as you whiz over Batoka Gorge (single/tandem US$45/70). Other similar options are flying-fox rides (US$42).
A slightly less terrifying variation of the bungee jump is the gorge swing (US$95), where you take the plunge foot first before swinging across the gorge like a human pendulum.
8Information
Hands down the best independent advice
is from Backpackers Bazaar (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; 
%013-42208,
013-44511, 013-45828;
www.backpackersbazaarvicfalls.com;
off Parkway, Shop 5, Bata
Bldg; h8am-5pm
Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat & Sun) in the town of Victoria Falls, run by the
passionate owner, Joy, who has a wealth of all info and advice for
Victoria Falls and beyond. In Livingstone, the folks at
Jollyboys Backpackers are also extremely knowledgeable on all
the latest happenings. Both are good places to book activities and
onward travel.
Zambia
%260
As Zambia continues to ride the wave of tourism generated by the falls, it manages to keep itself grounded, offering a wonderfully low-key destination. The waterfront straddling the falls continues its rapid development and is fast becoming one of the most exclusive destinations in Southern Africa.
Livingstone
Pop 136,897 / %0213
The relaxed and friendly town of Livingstone, set just 11km from Victoria Falls, is a fantastic base for visiting the Zambian side of the natural world wonder. It attracts travellers not only to experience the falls but also to tackle the thrilling adventure scene, and has taken on the role of a backpacking mecca. Its main thoroughfare, Mosi-oa-Tunya Rd, leads south to a wonderful stretch of the Zambezi River around 7km from town.
Livingstone
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
7Shopping
1Sights
oVictoria Falls
World Heritage National Monument SiteWATERFALL
(Mosi-au-Tunya
National Park;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; adult/child/guide US$20/10/10; h6am-6pm)
This is what you're here for: the mighty Victoria Falls! It's a part of the Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park, located 11km outside town before the Zambia border crossing. From the centre, a network of paths leads through thick vegetation to various viewpoints.
For close-up views of the Eastern Cataract, nothing beats the hair-raising (and hair-wetting) walk across the footbridge, through swirling clouds of mist, to a sheer buttress called the Knife Edge.
If the water is low, or the wind is favourable, you’ll be treated to a magnificent view of the falls as well as the yawning abyss below. Otherwise, your vision (and your clothes) will be drenched by spray. Then you can walk down a steep track to the banks of the great Zambezi to see the huge whirlpool called the Boiling Pot. Watch out for cheeky baboons.
Note during the dry season (from August to January) the water flow can be low to non-existent, in which case it's recommended that you cross over to the Zimbabwe side for a look at the main falls; visas are available at the border.
When there's a full moon (and just before and after) the park is open in the evenings in order to see the amazing lunar rainbow.
oDevil's
PoolVIEWPOINT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.devilspool.net; Livingstone Island; from US$90)
One of the most thrilling experiences – not only at the falls but in all of Africa – is the hair-raising journey to Livingstone Island. Here you will bathe in Devil's Pool – nature’s ultimate infinity pool, set directly on the edge of the Victoria Falls. You can leap into the pool and then poke your head over the edge to get an extraordinary view of the 100m drop. Here also you'll see the plaque marking the spot where David Livingstone first sighted the falls.
You can only visit Livingstone Island as part of a tour, and swimming in Devil's Pool is only possible during the drier months, usually from the middle of August to mid January. Five trips depart daily by boat to Livingstone Island, from where you'll swim to Devil's Pools. When the water is low around October and November, you’re able to access it via walking across, but a guide is compulsory. Note that access to the island is closed from around March to May when the water levels are too high.
Prices start at US$90 which includes a full English Breakfast, US$158 for lunch or US$133 for high tea, including alcohol.
Mosi-oa-Tunya National ParkNATIONAL PARK
(
GOOGLE MAP ; adult/child
US$15/7.50; h6am-6pm)
This park is divided into two sections: the Victoria Falls area and the wildlife sector. The latter is only 3km southwest of Livingstone, and most famous for its population of white rhino, which you can track on foot. For their protection, the rhino are accompanied by anti-poaching rangers round-the-clock. You can only see them as part of a pre-booked tour (US$80 per person, inclusive of park fees and hotel transfer), booked through Livingstone Rhino Walks or Savannah Southern Safaris.
Livingstone MuseumMUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %0213-324429; www.museumszambia.org;
Mosi-oa-Tunya Rd; adult/child
US$ 5/3; h9am-4.30pm)
The excellent Livingstone Museum is the oldest, largest and best museum in the country. It's divided into sections covering archaeology, history, ethnography and natural history. Highlights include its collection of original David Livingstone memorabilia (including signed letters), tribal artefacts (from bark cloth to witchcraft exhibits), a life-sized model of an African village, taxidermy displays and coverage of modern-day Zambian history.
Railway & Gateway Jewish MuseumMUSEUM
(
GOOGLE MAP ; www.zambianheritage.org.zm;
Chishimba Falls Rd; adult/child
US$15/7; h8.30am-4.30pm)
While there are some beautiful 19th century locomotives to clamber onboard in the Railway Museum, the background information is a bit on the dry side. The Jewish Museum is of more interest, offering an insight to Livingstone's Jewish community who settled here in the 1890s via South Africa after fleeing persecution from Lithuania. The town saw an influx of European immigrants during the next 50 years, including those fleeing WWII.
For other Jewish sites in Livingstone, you can
visit the Jewish Cemetery (
GOOGLE MAP ; h24hr)
and Zambia's first synagogue (Church of
Christ;
GOOGLE MAP ; Likute
Way), which is now a
church.
LIVINGSTONE – THE MAN, THE MYTH, THE LEGEND
David Livingstone is one of a few European explorers who is still revered by modern-day Africans. His legendary exploits on the continent border the realm of fiction, though his life’s mission to end the slave trade was very real (and ultimately very successful).
Born into rural poverty in the south of Scotland on 19 March 1813, Livingstone worked in London for several years before being ordained as a missionary in 1840. The following year he arrived in Bechuanaland (now Botswana) and began travelling inland, looking for converts and seeking to end the slave trade.
As early as 1842 Livingstone had already become the first European to penetrate the northern reaches of the Kalahari. For the next several years, he explored the African interior with the purpose of opening up trade routes and establishing missions. In 1854 Livingstone discovered a route to the Atlantic coast, and arrived in present-day Luanda. However, his most famous discovery occurred in 1855 when he first set eyes on Victoria Falls during his epic boat journey down the Zambezi River. Livingstone returned to Britain a national hero, and recounted his travels in the 1857 publication Missionary Travels and Researches in South Africa.
In 1858 Livingstone returned to Africa as the head of the Zambezi Expedition, a government-funded venture that aimed to identify natural resource reserves in the region. Unfortunately the expedition ended when a previously unexplored section of the Zambezi turned out to be unnavigable.
In 1869 Livingstone reached Lake Tanganyika despite failing health, though several of his followers abandoned the expedition en route. These desertions were headline news in Britain, sparking rumours regarding Livingstone’s health and sanity. In response to the growing mystery surrounding Livingstone’s whereabouts, the New York Herald arranged a publicity stunt by sending journalist Henry Morton Stanley to find Livingstone.
After arriving in Zanzibar and setting out with nearly 200 porters, Stanley finally found Livingstone on 10 November 1871 in Ujiji near Lake Tanganyika and famously greeted him with the line ‘Dr Livingstone, I presume?’
Although Stanley urged him to leave the continent, Livingstone was determined to find the source of the Nile, and penetrated deeper into the continent than any European prior. On 1 May 1873 Livingstone died from malaria and dysentery near Lake Bangweula in present-day Zambia. His body was carried for thousands of kilometres by his attendants, and now lies in the ground at Westminster Abbey in London.
2Activities
Bundu AdventuresADVENTURE SPORTS
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %0978-203988,
0213-324406;
www.bunduadventures.com;
1364 Kabompo Rd, Gemstone
Restaurant)
Long-standing Livingstone-based activity operator (established in 1996), known best for whitewater rafting trips.
Batoka SkySCENIC FLIGHTS
(%0213-323589; www.seasonsinafrica.com;
15-min flights from
US$155)
Offers helicopter and microlight flights over Victoria Falls, Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park and Batoka Gorge. Microlights – motorised hang-gliders, where you're accompanied by a pilot who will take pictures for you with a camera fixed to the wing – offer an interesting alternative to helicopters.
Angle ZambiaFISHING
(%0977-58635,
0213-327489;
www.zambezifishing.com)
Grab a rod and cruise out to the Zambezi for the opportunity to reel in a mighty tiger fish, for around US$125 for a half day, and US$255 for a full day, which includes beer, fuel and transfers; lunch is provided for whole day trips.
Livingstone's AdventureTOUR OPERATOR
(%0213-323589; www.livingstonesadventure.com)
One of the main operators on the Zambia side for booking activities at Victoria Falls.
Royal Livingstone ExpressRAIL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %0213-4699300; www.royal-livingstone-express.com;
Mosi-oa-Tunya Rd; US$180 incl
dinner, drinks & transfers; h4.30pm Wed
& Sat)
The Royal Livingstone Express takes you on a 3½-hour ride on a 1924 10th-class or 12th-class steam engine, including five-course dinner and drinks. The journey takes you to through Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park on plush leather couches, en route to the Victoria Falls Bridge for a sundowner.
United Air CharterSCENIC FLIGHTS
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %0213-323095,
0955 204282;
www.uaczam.com; Baobab
Ridge, Livingstone;
15/20/30min
US$165/235/330)
Livingstone-based company offering scenic helicopter flights over Vic Falls. Can also arrange flights over Kafue National Park in central Zambia.
Safari Par ExcellenceTOUR OPERATOR
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %0213-320606; www.safpar.net)
Tour operator for Zambia's side of Victoria Falls.
TTours
Savannah Southern SafarisWILDLIFE, WALKING
(%0973
471486; www.savannah-southern-safaris.com)
Offers a range of nature tours, but it's best known for its walks to see white rhino in Mosi-au-Tunya National Park. For two or more people it's US$70, or US$80 for individuals, inclusive of transport and park fees. Note you need to be over 12 years of age.
They can also arrange tours to visit local communities, as well as Livingstone walking tours.
Livingstone Rhino WalksSAFARI
(%0213-322267; www.livingstonerhinosafaris.com;
per person US$80)
This Livingstone-based tour operator specialises in walking safaris to see white rhino in Mosi-au-Tunya National Park. Visitors must be over 12 years of age. The price is inclusive of park entry fees and transfers in the Livingstone area.
4Sleeping
oJollyboys
BackpackersHOSTEL, CAMPGROUND$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %0213-324229; www.backpackzambia.com;
34 Kanyanta Rd; campsite per
person US$9, dm US$12-15, d from US$65, d/tr/q with shared bathroom
US$45/50/80; 
a
i
W
s)
S
The clued-in owner here knows exactly what backpackers want, making Jollyboys popular for good reason. From its friendly staff, social bar and restaurant to the sunken reading lounge and sparkling pool, it's a great place to hang out. Dorms and bathrooms are spotless (with a flashpacker option, too), while the private rooms comprise A-frame garden cottages or very comfortable rooms with air-con and attached bathroom.
Rose Rabbit Zambezi River BushcampTENTED CAMP$
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %in Zimbabwe
0773 368608, in Zimbabwe 0784 007283; www.facebook.com/theroserabbit;
Rapid 21, Lower Zambezi
River; per person campsite/dm/tented camping/treehouse
US$10/15/20/40)
This riverside beach camp is one for independent travellers looking for a different scene. Right on rapid 21 of the Lower Zambezi, it will suit not only rafting enthusiasts but also a more free-spirited crowd who are into bonfire jamborees, swimming and hanging out by the beach. As well as campsites, there are dorms, tented camps and A-frame treehouse digs.
Livingstone BackpackersHOSTEL, CAMPGROUND$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %0213-324730; www.livingstonebackpackers.com;
559 Mokambo Rd; campsite
US$7, dm from US$12, d US$45, with shared bathroom
US$65; Ws)
Resembling the Big Brother household, this place can be a bit ‘party central’, particularly when the Gen Y volunteer brigade is on holiday. You’ll find them lounging by the pool, in the hot tub, at the bar, or in the sandy outdoor cabana, swinging in hammocks, cooking barbecues or tackling the rock-climbing wall. There is also an open-air kitchen and living room. Very friendly staff.
Fawlty TowersBACKPACKERS, LODGE$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %0213-323432; www.adventure-africa.com;
216 Mosi-oa-Tunya
Rd; dm US$12, r from US$50, with shared bathroom
US$45; aiWs)
As well as some of the nicest and most spacious dorms we’ve seen, things have been spruced up here into a guesthouse full of upmarket touches – no longer catering exclusively to backpackers. There's free wi-fi, large well-maintained lawns, a great pool, a bar, a homely lounge, free pancakes for afternoon tea, a self-catering kitchen, and no Basil or Manuel in sight.
Likute GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %0979
628091; 62 Likute Way; r
US$30; aW)
Off the main road down a relaxed street is this laid-back guesthouse that will suit those on a budget seeking a well-priced private room. Rooms are spacious, have cable TV and there's a small bar and restaurant.
Olga's GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %0213-324160; www.olgasproject.com;
cnr Mosi-oa-Tunya & Nakatindi
Rds; s/d/f incl breakfast
US$40/60/80; aW)S
With a good location in the centre of town, Olga's offers clean, spacious rooms with cool tiled floors, teak furniture and slick bathrooms just a few feet away. Profits go towards helping an organisation supporting local youth. Another bonus is its on-site Italian restaurant, Olga's Italian Corner.
ZigZagGUESTHOUSE$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %0213-322814; www.zigzagzambia.com;
693 Linda Rd, off Mosi-oa-Tunya
Rd; s/d/tr incl breakfast
US$50/70/90; 
paiWs)
Don’t be deceived by the motel-meets-caravan-park exterior: the rooms here are more boutique B&B with loving touches throughout. Rooms are spotless, and set on a sprawling garden property with an assortment of fruit trees, picnic tables, a plush pool and a playground for kids. Its great restaurant is another drawcard, too.
Victoria Falls WaterfrontLODGE, CAMPGROUND$$
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %0213-320606; www.thevictoriafallswaterfront.com;
Sichango Dr; campsite per
person US$13, s/d tented camping US$36/48, s/d incl breakfast
chalet from US$165/215;
aWs)
Sharing space with the luxury resorts along the banks of the Zambezi, this is the only waterfront lodge that caters to budget travellers. For this reason it's a popular place, with a wilderness charm (crocs inhabit a small creek on the property), and a choice of camping, domed tents or alluring riverside chalets. Its pool with decking and bar overlooking the river is unsurprisingly popular at sunset.
oStanley Safari
LodgeLODGE$$$
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %in Malawi
0265-1794491;
www.stanleysafaris.com;
Stanley Rd; per person
with full board & activities from US$510; iWs)
Intimate and indulgent, Stanley is a 10km drive from the falls in a peaceful spot surrounded by mopane (woodland). Rooms scattered among the landscaped bush garden are as plush as can be expected at these prices; the standouts are the rustic open-air suites where you can soak up nature from your own private plunge pool. When you tire of that, curl up by the fire in the open-air lounge. Rates are all-inclusive.
Tongabezi LodgeLODGE$$$
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %0213-327468,
0979 312766;
www.tongabezi.com; cottage/house per person incl full board &
activities from US$775/875; aWs)
Here you’ll find sumptuous spacious cottages and open-faced ‘treehouses’ and private dining decks. The houses are good for families and have private plunge pools. Guests are invited to spend an evening on nearby Sindabezi Island (from US$595 per person), a luxurious, rustic getaway.
AVANIRESORT$$$
(
GOOGLE MAP ;
%0978
777044; www.minorhotels.com/en/avani;
Mosi-oa-Tunya Rd; s/d/f incl
breakfast US$320/365/504; aWs)
Only a 10-minute walk from the falls, this sprawling resort provides a great base for exploring the area. The kasbah-inspired rooms are vibrant while plenty of pools and a playground are perfect for families. It’s within the perimeter of the national park, so expect to see grazing zebras, giraffes and impala but keep your distance. Rates include falls entry.
5Eating
oDa
CantonGELATO$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
Mosi-Oa-Tunya Rd; gelato
small/large cup ZMW8/24, pizza from ZMW19; h9am-11pm)
While all the Italian food here is tasty and authentic, it's the homemade gelato that has locals raving. The Italian owner makes all 18 flavours, including all the classics and some original concoctions.
Culture CafeAFRICAN$
(
GOOGLE MAP ; Mosi-oa-Tunya Rd, Livingstone
Museum; mains ZMW35-70; h9am-5pm
Mon-Sat)
Culture Cafe is a wonderful spot to sample traditional Zambian food. It's a basic, yet colourful little eatery, where you can take your pick from charcoal barbecue Zambezi bream, chicken and peanut sauce, or grilled impala (or similar game meat of the day), all served with nshima (starchy porridge-like staple made from white maize) and vegetables.
Zam MexAFRICAN, MEXICAN$
(
GOOGLE MAP ;
%0968
969250; www.kubuka.org; Kutaway
Rd; mains ZMW15-35; h8am-11pm)S
Set up by a Spanish NGO, this no-frills restaurant/bar caters to locals and tourists alike. Unfortunately though the food isn't a fusion of Zambian and Mexican cuisine (no goat-and-collared-greens tacos, sorry), and instead divides the menu into half Zambian dishes, half Tex Mex – the latter with mixed results. Regardless, stop by for a beer and a few tequilas – it's for a good cause.
All proceeds from here go the work they do with the community. Located across from the bus station, it's not the safest destination to walk around at night, so take a cab home after dark.
oCafe
ZambeziAFRICAN$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %0978
978578; www.facebook.com/cafezambezi;
217 Mosi-oa-Tunya
Rd; mains US$6-10; h7.15am-midnight; W
v)
Head straight through to the courtyard, sunny by day and candlelit by night. Bursting with local flavour, the broad menu covers local favourites of goat meat, smoky crocodile tail and mopane (woodland) caterpillars. Authentic wood-fired pizzas are a winner or sink your teeth into impala or eggplant-and-haloumi burgers.
oOlga's Italian
CornerITALIAN$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; www.olgasproject.con;
cnr Mosi-oa-Tunya & Nakatindi
Rds; pizza & pasta ZMW35-88; h7am-10pm; Wv)
Olga’s does authentic wood-fired thin-crust pizzas, as well as delicious homemade pasta classics all served under a large thatched roof. Great options for vegetarians include the lasagne with its crispy blackened edge served in the dish. All profits go to a community centre to help disadvantaged youth.
Golden LeafINDIAN$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%0213-321266; 1174
Mosi-Oa-Tunya Rd;
mains ZMW54-95; h12.30-10pm)
As soon as those aromas hit you upon arrival you'll realise Golden Leaf is the real deal when it comes to authentic Indian food. It's a good option for vegetarians with a lot of choices including house-made paneer dishes, creamy North Indian curries and tandoori dishes in the evenings.
ZigZagCAFE$$
(Mango Tree
Cafe;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
www.zigzagzambia.com/the-mango-tree-cafe;
693 Linda Rd, off Mosi-oa-Tunya
Rd; mains from ZMW25-62; h7am-9pm; W)
ZigZag does drool-inducing homemade muffins, excellent Zambian coffee and smoothies using fresh fruit from the garden. Its changing menu of comfort food is all made from scratch, and you can expect anything from drop scones (pikelets) with bacon and maple syrup to thin-crust pizzas and burgers.
6Drinking & Nightlife
The SundeckBAR
(
GOOGLE MAP ;
http://royal-livingstone.anantara.com/the-sundecks;
Mosi-au-Tunya Rd; cocktail
from ZMW40; h10.30am-7pm; W)
Just the spot for a sundowner, this open-air bar within the Royal Livingstone Hotel overlooks a dramatic stretch of the Zambezi. As well as the usual bar drinks there's a choice of old-fashioned cocktails such as the Manhattan, Americano and champagne cocktail. There's also decent burgers, mezze platters and salads. From here it's a 15-minute walk to the falls.
The Old FarmhousePUB
(
GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/theoldfarmhouselivingstone;
Sichango Rd; mains
ZMW40-120; h4pm-late
Mon-Fri, noon-late Sat, 9am-late Sun)
Primarily a hangout for locals and expats, the Farmhouse doesn't need to wow tourists with river views, instead opting for a more rustic property on an old farm. It has a lively front bar and verandah deck where folk enjoy cold drinks and home-cooked meals.
The WaterfrontBAR
(
GOOGLE MAP ; Sichango Dr,
Victoria Falls Waterfront; pizzas from
ZMW85; h7am-late; W)
A favourite watering hole for expats and tourists alike, this deck bar (complete with swimming pool) has a spectacular location overlooking the Zambezi River. There's beer on tap, popular wood-fired pizzas (including a crocodile variety), and happy hour on Wednesday and Friday from 5.30pm. It's at the Victoria Falls Waterfront Lodge, 4km from Livingstone.
7Shopping
WayawayaFASHION & ACCESSORIES
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
www.wayawaya.no; Mosi-oa-Tunya Rd; h9am-5pm)S
A social enterprise founded by two Norwegian girls, Wayawaya sells quality, contemporary handmade bags put together by local women. Its principles are based on the slow fashion movement, and you can meet all the ladies when visiting. Get in touch if you want to volunteer.
Mukuni CraftsARTS & CRAFTS
(
GOOGLE MAP ; Mosi-oa-Tunya Rd; h7.30am-6pm)
The craft stalls in the southern corner of Mukuni park are a pleasant, and hassle-free place to browse for souvenirs.
8Information
Dangers & Annoyances
Don’t walk from town to the falls as there have been a number of muggings along this stretch of road – even tourists on bicycles have been targeted. It’s a long and not terribly interesting walk anyway, and simply not worth the risk (especially given there are elephants around). Take a taxi or free shuttle from your guesthouse. While Livingstone is generally a very safe town, avoid walking around town once it becomes dark.
Immigration
Immigration
Office (
GOOGLE MAP ; %0213-3320648; www.zambiaimmigration.gov.zm;
Mosi-oa-Tunya Rd; h8am-1pm &
2-5pm Mon-Fri)
Medical Services
SES-Zambia
(
GOOGLE MAP ;
www.ses-zambia.com;
Mosi-au-Tunya Rd, AVANI Victoria Falls
Resort; h8am-5pm) The best medical facility in the area,
both for emergency services and general medicine. It's within the
AVANI resort.
Money
The following banks accept MasterCard and Visa, but can occasionally go offline during power outages.
Barclays In town ( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Mosi-oa-Tunya Rd & Akapelwa St) and at the AVANI resort. ( GOOGLE MAP ; AVANI Victoria Falls Resort, Mosi-oa-Tunya Rd)
Standard Chartered Bank ( GOOGLE MAP ; Mosi-oa-Tunya Rd) In town.
Stanbic ( GOOGLE MAP ; Mosi-oa-Tunya Rd) In town.
Police
Police
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %0213-323575,
0213-320116;
Maramba Rd)
Post
Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; Mosi-oa-Tunya Rd) Has a poste restante service.
Tourist Information
Tourist Centre
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %0213-321404; www.zambiatourism.com;
Mosi-oa-Tunya Rd; h8am-5pm
Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat)
Mildly useful and can help with booking tours and accommodation,
but
Jollyboys and
Fawlty Towers have all the information you need.
VISAS
You will need a visa to cross sides between Zimbabwe and Zambia. These are available at the border crossings, open from around 6am to 10pm.
Visa Options
You can't get multi-entry visas at the Victoria Falls' crossings; in most cases you need to apply at the embassy in your home country before travelling.
ACrossing into Zambia A day visit costs US$20 for 24 hours (but you'll need a Zimbabwean double-entry to return), a single-entry visa costs US$50 and double entry is US$80.
ACrossing into Zimbabwe A single-entry visa costs US$30 for most nationalities (US$55 for British/Irish and US$75 for Canadian). Double entry is US$45 for most nationalities (US$75 for British/Irish and unavailable for Canadians).
Note that the KAZA Uni-Visa (which formerly allowed travel between the two countries) was suspended in 2016. It's worth checking, though, before you leave to see if it's back in effect.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Livingstone's newly renovated airport – officially known as Harry Mwanga Nkumbula International Airport (Harry Mwanga Nkumbula International Airport; GOOGLE MAP ) – is located 6km northwest of town. It has an ATM and free wi-fi. It's around a US$5 taxi ride into town, or US$8 to the waterfront hotels.
South African
Airways (%0213-323031; www.flysaa.com) and British
Airways (Comair;
%in South
Africa +27 10-3440130;
www.britishairways.com)
have daily flights to and from Johannesburg (1¾ hours); the
cheapest economy fare starts at around US$270 return.
Proflight
Zambia (%0977 335563,
in Lusaka 0211-252452;
www.proflight-zambia.com)
flies daily from Livingstone to Lusaka for around US$210 one way
(1¼ hours).
Bus & Minibus
Plenty of minibuses and shared taxis ply the route from the Big Tree Bus Station ( GOOGLE MAP ) at Livingstone's town market along Senanga Rd in Livingstone. Note that plans are in place to relocate the bus terminal to Nakatindi Rd. As muggings have been reported, it is best to take a taxi if you arrive at night.
Car & Motorcycle
If you’re driving a rented car or motorcycle, be sure to carefully check all info regarding insurance, and that you have all the necessary papers for checks and border crossings such as 'owners' and 'permission to drive' documents, insurance papers and a copy of the carbon tax receipt. Expect to pay around US$100 in various fees when crossing the border into Zimbabwe.
Train
While the bus is a much quicker way to
get around, the train to Lusaka is for lovers of slow travel or
trains. The operative word here is slow, taking anywhere
from 15 to 20 hours for the trip to Lusaka
(economy/business/1st-class sleeper ZMW 70/90/135), via Choma,
departing 8pm on Monday and Friday. Bring your own food.
Reservations are available at the train
station (
GOOGLE MAP ; %0961
195353), which is signed
off Mosi-oa-Tunya Rd.
8Getting Around
Taxis
Minibuses ( GOOGLE MAP ) run regularly along Mosi-oa-Tunya Rd to Victoria Falls and the Zambian border, 11km south of Livingstone (ZMW5,15 minutes). Blue taxis cost ZMW60 to ZMW80 from the border to Livingstone. Coming from the border, shared taxis are parked just over from the waiting taxis, and depart when full.
The going rate for one day's taxi hire around Livingstone and the falls is about US$25.
Car & Motorcycle
Hemingways
(%0213-323097; www.hemingwayszambia.com)
in Livingstone has new 4WD Toyota Hiluxes for around US$225 per
day. Vehicles are fully kitted out with everything you need,
including cooking and camping equipment. Drivers must be over
25.
Voyagers
(
GOOGLE MAP ;
%0213-323259,
0213-320517;
www.voyagerszambia.com;
163 Mosi-oa-Tunya
Rd) Zambian operator
affiliated with Europcar has reasonably priced 4WDs for around
US$100 per day.
ZIM OR ZAM?
Victoria Falls straddles the border between Zimbabwe and Zambia, and is easily accessible from both countries. However, the big question for most travellers is: do I visit the falls from the town of Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe, or from Livingstone, Zambia? The answer is simple: visit the falls from both sides and, if possible, stay in both towns. You'll need to pay for extra visas, but you've come this far so it's worth it.
From the Zimbabwean side, you’re further from the falls, though the overall views are much, much better. From the Zambian side, for daring souls you can literally stand on top of the falls from Devil's Pool, though from here your perspective is narrowed.
The town of Victoria Falls was built for tourists, so it’s easily walkable and located right next to the entrance to the Falls. It has a natural African bush beauty. As for whether it's safe given Zimbabwe's ongoing political issues, the answer is a resolute 'yes'.
Livingstone is an attractive town with a relaxed ambience and a proud, historic air. Since the town of Victoria Falls was the main tourist centre for so many years, Livingstone feels more authentic, perhaps because locals earn their livelihood through means other than tourism. Livingstone is bustling with travellers year-round, though the town is fairly spread out, and is located 11km from the falls.
Zimbabwe
%263
There may still be a long way to go, but finally things seem to be looking up for Zimbabwe. All the bad news that has kept it in the glare of the spotlight – rampant land reform, hyperinflation and food shortages – fortunately now seem to be a thing of the past. In reality,safety has never been a concern for travellers here and, even during the worst of it, tourists were never targets for political violence. Word of this seems to have spread, as tourists stream back to the Zim side of the falls.
Victoria Falls (Town)
Pop 33,360 / %013
A genuine bucket-list destination, Victoria Falls remains one of Africa's most famous tourist towns. Not only does it offer the best views of the iconic falls, but it also has a world-class adventure-tourism scene and wildlife safaris.
It's home to the country's tourism industry, and despite Zimbabwe's political issues, it's always been a safe spot for tourists; locals are exceptionally friendly. While for a few years it felt like a resort in off-season, there's no mistake about it now – it's officially reopened for business.
Though built specifically for tourism, it retains a relaxed local feel, and has neat, walkable streets (though not at dark, because of the wild animals) lined with hotels, bars and some of the best crafts you'll find anywhere in Southern Africa.
Victoria Falls
1Top Sights
6Drinking & Nightlife
7Shopping
8Information
1Sights
oVictoria Falls
National ParkWATERFALL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; US$30;
h6am-6pm)
Here on the Zimbabwe side of the falls you're in for a real treat. Some two-thirds of Victoria Falls are located here, including the main falls themselves, which flow spectacularly year-round. The walk is along the top of the gorge, following a path with various viewing points that open up to extraordinary front-on panoramas of these world-famous waterfalls.
One of the most dramatic spots is the westernmost point known as Cataract View (just before you reach the David Livingstone statue), where steps lead down to outlooks of Devil's Cataract, a dramatic view of the falls often accompanied by a rainbow prism effect. Heading back eastwards takes you past multiples viewing points of the main falls, where you'll witness the drama with full 180 degree views. Another track leads to the aptly named Danger Point, where a sheer, unfenced 100m drop-off will rattle your nerves. From there, you can follow a side track for a view of the Victoria Falls Bridge.
If you're here in April, you'll need to hire a raincoat and umbrella just inside the gates – you will get soaked! During a full moon (and just before and after), the park opens again in the evenings in order for visitors to see the amazing lunar rainbow; tickets cost an extra US$10.
The falls are located around 1km from the town centre (just before the border to Zambia) crossing, so you can easily walk here.
Payment is accepted in US dollars, euro, pound and rand, as well as Mastercard and Visa. At the entrance there's a series of detailed information boards, and a decent souvenir shop selling a good selection of cultural books. Here there's also the quality Rainforest Cafe, which is a good spot for food or a drink.
oJafuta Heritage
CentreCULTURAL CENTRE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; www.elephantswalk.com/heritage.htm;
Adam Stander Dr, Elephant's
Walk; admission by donation; h8am-5pm)
F
This impressive little museum details the cultural heritage of Zimbabwe's indigenous ethnic groups. There's good background information on the Shona, Ndebele, Tonga and Lozi people, as well as fascinating artefacts, jewellery and costumes.
Snake PitZOO
(
GOOGLE MAP ;
%0773
719654; www.facebook.com/the-snake-pit-victoria-falls;
Shop 34 Livingstone
Way; adult/child incl tour US$7/2; h8.30am-5pm)
Black mambas, spitting cobras and puff adders ain't things you want to come across in the wild, so fortunately they're all here to see behind the safety of glass. The impressive reptile selection comprises mainly African snakes (with a few from other parts of the world), some of them you're able to hold for that photo op. Visit at 2.30pm for feeding time.
Zambezi National ParkNATIONAL PARK
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %013-42294; www.zimparks.org; day/overnight US$15/23; h6am-6pm)
Just 5km from the town centre is this vastly underrated national park, comprising 40km of Zambezi River frontage and a spread of wildlife-rich mopane (woodland) and savannah. It's best known for its herds of sable, elephant, giraffe, zebra and buffalo, plus the occasional (rarely spotted) lion, leopard and cheetah. It's easily accessible by 2WD vehicle.
It's possible to sleep inside the park, with accommodation options comprising well-equipped self-catering chalets and campsites.
Stanley and Livingstone Private Game ReserveWILDLIFE RESERVE
(Victoria
Falls Private Game Reserve;
GOOGLE MAP ; %013-44571; www.stanleyandlivingstone.com/activities)
Situated 12km from town is this private game reserve covering 4000-hectares. It's home to the Big Five, including the critically endangered black rhino, which you're almost guaranteed to see. Game drives are US$100, or US$135 for a night drive with a bush dinner.
2Activities
Shockwave AdventuresADVENTURE SPORTS
(%013-43001; www.shockwavevictoriafalls.com)
One of the few Zimbabwean-owned adventure operators, it gets good reviews for its rafting.
BonisairSCENIC FLIGHTS
(%0776
497888; www.bonisair.com; 15-/22-/25-mins US$150/235/277)
Zimbabwean operator offering scenic helicopter flights over Victoria Falls.
Bushtracks ExpressRAIL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %013-45176; www.gotothevictoriafalls.com;
205 Courtney Selous
Cr)
Take in the romance of yesteryear and book yourself a ride on a historical steam train. Here a 1953 class 14A Garratt steam train will take you over the iconic Victoria Falls Bridge at sunset or through the Zambezi National Park with gourmet canapés and unlimited drinks. It's US$125 (including transfers, alcohol and snacks), with departures on Tuesday and Friday at 5pm or 5.30pm; check the website for the latest schedule.
Adventure ZoneADVENTURE SPORTS
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %013-44424; www.adventurezonevicfalls.com;
4 Phumula Centre, off
Parkway)
One of the main adventure activity operators in Victoria Falls. Well-regarded for whitewater rafting.
Shearwater Victoria FallsADVENTURE SPORTS
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %013-44471; www.shearwatervictoriafalls.com;
Parkway Dr)
One of the most trustworthy operators in Victoria Falls for booking activities and accommodation.
Zambezi Helicopter CompanySCENIC FLIGHTS
(%013-43569; www.zambezihelicopters.com;
flights 13-/25-min US$150/284, plus
US$12 govt fee)
Running chopper flights since 1996, Zambezi Helicopter Company offers two routes: over the falls, and longer trips that take in Batoka Gorge and Zambezi National Park.
Wild HorizonsTOUR OPERATOR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %0712 213721,
013-44571; www.wildhorizons.co.za;
310 Parkway Dr)
One of Victoria Falls premier tour operators for booking activities on both sides of the falls.
Crocodile Cage DivingWILDLIFE
( GOOGLE MAP ; Adam Stander Dr, Elephant's Walk; US$70)
For a close encounter with a Nile croc, bring along your bathers and take the plunge into a croc-filled enclosure – within the safety of a cage, and wearing a mask and breathing apparatus.
4Sleeping
oVictoria Falls
BackpackersHOSTEL, CAMPGROUND$
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %013-42209; www.victoriafallsbackpackers.com;
357 Gibson Rd; camping/dm
per person US$10/18, d US$60, with shared bathroom
US$50; iWs)
One of the best budget choices in town, this long-standing backpackers received a much-needed revamp when the original owners returned. The eclectic mix of rooms are scattered among the well-tended garden property full of quirky touches. Other notable features are its bar, small inviting pool, games room and TV lounge, plus self-catering kitchen, massage and fish spa.
Victoria Falls Restcamp & LodgesCAMPGROUND, LODGE$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %013-40509; www.vicfallsrestcamp.com;
cnr Parkway & West
Dr; camping/dm US$16/20, s/d dome tents from US$29/40,
s/d chalets without bathroom US$35/46, cottages from
US$127; aWs)
A great alternative for independent travellers wanting to avoid the backpacker scene, it has a relaxed holiday-camp-style feel, within secure grassy grounds, where you've got a choice of no-frills dorms, lodge-style rooms (or pricier air-con rooms with bathroom) and varying types of safari tents. There's a lovely pool and fantastic open-air restaurant, In Da Belly. Wi-fi available (for a fee).
Zambezi National Park LodgeCHALETS, CAMPGROUND$$
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %013-42294; www.zimparks.org; camping $17,
cottage $138;
a)
These wonderful two-bedroom cottages are right in the national park spread on the Zambezi river. You'll need to bring your own food, but all come with fridges, full kitchen, couches, TV, bathtubs and even air-con. There's an outdoor barbecue area if that all sounds too plush. Further into the park are basic bush campsites (firewood US$5), but with no water or ablutions.
Greenfire LodgeLODGE$$
(Drifters;
GOOGLE MAP ; %0774-169036,
40112; www.drifters.co.za/drifters-lodges;
334 Wood Rd; r incl
breakfast US$45 per person; aWs)
In an appealingly leafy residential location away from the touristy main strip. The large, comfortable rooms are within an impressive high-ceiling thatched house set among a relaxed garden with a pool. It's used by overlander trucks, so it's either super busy or ultra relaxed depending if they're in town or not. Wi-fi costs an additional $US5 per day.
oVictoria Falls
HotelLUXURY HOTEL$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %013-44751,
0772 132175;
www.victoriafallshotel.com;
1 Mallet Dr; s/d incl
breakfast from US$423/455; aWs)
Built in 1904, this historic hotel (the oldest in Zimbabwe) oozes elegance and sophistication. It occupies an impossibly scenic location, looking across manicured lawns (with roaming warthogs) to the gorge and bridge. You can’t see the falls as such, but you do see the spray from some rooms. Taking high tea here at Stanley's Terrace is an institution.
Don't expect five-star amenities or service, however, as it's more about character and history. There are several restaurants to choose form, including the lavish Livingstone Room with seven-course degustation menu ($US45), and the Jungle Junction serving African dishes accompanied by cultural performances (7.30pm nightly).
Stanley and Livingstone Safari LodgeLODGE$$$
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %013-44571; www.stanleyandlivingstone.com;
Stanley & Livingstone Private Game
Reserve; r per person incl full board & activities
US$436; aWs)
Set on a private game reserve 15km from Victoria Falls, this luxury lodge will suit visitors without the time to visit a national park but who want to be surrounded by wildlife. Rooms on the luxurious grounds feature all the modern comforts combined with Victorian-style bathrooms featuring claw-foot tubs, lounge suite and patio.
The Big Five are all in the area – including the critically endangered black rhino – which you can see on the daily game drives. There's daily shuttles into town.
Batonka Guest LodgeGUESTHOUSE$$$
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %013-47189/90; www.batonkaguestlodge.com;
Reynard Rd; s/d incl
breakfast US$195/300;
aWs)S
Mixing modern comforts with colonial charm, Batonka is an excellent choice for those not wanting a large-scale resort. It has a relaxed ambience, with rooms overlooking a landscaped lawn and inviting pool. Rooms have stylish bathrooms, cable TV and filter coffee. The reception/bar/restaurant is in a homestead-style building with wraparound veranda and a boutique interior design with original artwork throughout.
Elephant CampLODGE$$$
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %013-44571; www.theelephantcamp.com;
s/d incl full board
US$838/1118; iWs)
One of the best spots to splash out; the luxurious ‘tents’ have a classic lodge feel and are set on a private concession within the Victoria Falls National Park. Each room has its own outdoor private plunge pool and balcony decking to spot grazing animals or the spray of the falls. You might get to meet Sylvester, the resident cheetah.
A'Zambezi River LodgeLODGE$$$
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %toll free
1-888-790-5264;
www.azambeziriverlodge.com;
308 Parkway Dr; s/d incl
breakfast from $289/338;
aWs)
The only accommodation on the Zimbabwe side boasting a waterfront location, the resort-like A'Zambezi has all the mod-cons and will suit families and those on package tours. It's worth paying extra for an upstairs river-facing room – downstairs rooms are a bit generic. Its sprawling grounds are frequented by warthog and hippo, and it has a popular pool, bar and restaurant.
5Eating
oLookout
CafeCAFE$$
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %0782
745112; www.wildhorizons.co.za/the-lookout-cafe;
Batoka Gorge; mains
US$12-15; h8am-7pm; W)
A stunning location overlooking Batoka Gorge. Enjoy views of the bridge and the Zambezi river while tucking into a burger or crocodile kebab, or a cold drink on its open-air deck or grassy lawn terrace. It's operated by Wild Horizons, so you'll get the added entertainment of watching daredevils take the plunge or soar across the gorge.
Africa CaféCAFE$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; www.elephantswalk.com/africa_cafe.htm;
Adam Stander Dr, Elephant's
Walk; breakfast/burgers US$7/11; h8am-5pm; Wv)
This appealing outdoor cafe does the best coffee in Victoria Falls, made by expert baristas using beans sourced from Zimbabwe's eastern highlands. There's plenty of seating scattered about to enjoy big breakfasts, burgers, vegetarian dishes and desserts such as its signature baobab-powder cheese cake. There's a bar, too.
oLola's Tapas
& Carnivore RestaurantSPANISH,
AFRICAN$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %013-42994; 8B Landela
Complex; dishes US$8-20; h8am-10pm; W)
Run by welcoming host Lola from Barcelona, this popular eatery combines a menu of Mediterranean cuisine with local game meats. The result is anything from crocodile ravioli to paella with kudu. Other items include zebra burgers, impala meatballs, and more traditional tapas dishes. There's also a full spread of all-you-can-eat game meat for US$30.
oBomaAFRICAN$$
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %013-43211; www.victoria-falls-safari-lodge.com;
Squire Cummings Rd, Victoria Falls
Safari Lodge;
buffet US$40; hdinner 7pm,
cafe from 7am)
Enjoy a taste of Africa at this buffet restaurant set under a massive thatched roof. Here you can dine on smoked crocodile tail, BBQ warthog, guinea fowl stew and wood-fired spit roasts; and the more adventurous can try a mopane worm (you'll get a certificate from the chef for your efforts). There's also traditional dancing (8pm), interactive drumming (8.45pm) and fortune telling by a witch doctor. Bookings essential.
Shearwater CafeCAFE$$
(
GOOGLE MAP ; cnr
Livingstone Way & Parkway Dr; mains from
US$12; h8am-9.30pm; aW)
A glitzy cafe seems a bit incongruous along Victoria Fall's sleepy main strip, but it's proven a hit with tourists wanting a chic European-style atmosphere to sip their lattes streetside. During the heat of the day most head indoors to its swanky air-conditioned interior. The food is good quality, with eggy breakfasts, grilled Mozambique tiger prawn dishes, Zimbabwean steaks, sandwiches and a good burger and pizza selection.
In Da Belly RestaurantAFRICAN, INTERNATIONAL$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %013-332077; Parkway,
Victoria Falls Restcamp & Lodges; meals
US$5-15; h7am-9.30pm)
Under a large thatched hut, looking out to a sparkling pool, this relaxed open-air eatery has a menu of warthog schnitzel, crocodile curry and impala burgers, as well as one of the best breakfast menus in town. The name is a play on Ndebele, one of the two major population tribes in Zimbabwe.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Vic Falls offers some memorable spots for a drink. Aim for sundowners with a view, a booze cruise along the Zambezi or a spot of high tea at Victoria Falls Hotel. Weekends at Shoestrings Bar are the closest you'll get to a rowdy night out.
oStanley's
TerraceHIGH TEA
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %013-44751; www.victoriafallshotel.com/stanleys-terrace;
Mallet Dr, Victoria Falls
Hotel; high tea for 1-/2-people
US$15/30; hhigh tea
3-6pm; W)
The Terrace at the stately Victoria Falls Hotel just brims with English colonial ambience. High tea is served to a postcard-perfect backdrop of the gardens and Victoria Falls Bridge, with polished silverware, decadent cakes and three-tiered trays of finger sandwiches. (Cucumber? Why yes, of course.) A jug of Pimms makes perfect sense on summer day at US$24. The only thing missing is croquet.
Buffalo BarBAR
(
GOOGLE MAP ;
www.victoria-falls-safari-lodge.com;
Squire Cummings Rd, Victoria Falls
Safari Lodge;
h7am-10pm)
Unquestionably the best sundowner spot in town; enjoy a gin-and-tonic on its outdoor terrace overlooking distant animals on the plains of Zambezi National Park. Part of the Victoria Falls Safari Lodge, it's a good pre-dinner spot if you've got a booking at the hotel's Boma restaurant. Otherwise come during the day for the 1pm vulture feeding.
Shoestrings BarBAR
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %013-40167; www.shoestringsvicfalls.com;
12 West Dr, Shoestrings
Backpackers; hto
1am)
Popular with locals and backpackers alike, Shoestrings is the most lively spot for a drink in town. It's fairly laid-back during the week, but on Fridays and Saturdays it feels likes a house party as the dance floor gets a lot of action. Non-guests have to pay US$3 admission, but that includes a drink.
7Shopping
This is a great town for souvenir shopping, particularly for Shona sculpture and handmade crafts. The best spot is the Elephants Walk complex, with quality galleries, crafts and boutiques. Here there are branches of DHL and FedEx, which are handy for posting curios home.
oElephant's Walk
Shopping & Artist VillageSHOPPING
CENTRE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %0772
254552; www.elephantswalk.com;
Adam Stander Dr; h9am-5pm)
A must for those in the market for quality Zimbabwean and African craft, this shopping village is home to boutique stores and galleries owned by a collective that aims to promote and set up local artists.
At the back of Elephant's Walk Village you'll
find local vendors at Big Curio Open Market (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; Adam Stander
Dr), and the
Tshaka's Den Complex (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; h7.30am-6pm), both of which sell locally made
handicraft and Shona sculpture.
MatsimelaCOSMETICS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
www.matsimela.co.za;
Adam Stander Dr, Elephant's
Walk; h8am-5pm)
South African body-care brand Matsimela has set up shop here with an enticing aroma of natural scented soaps, body scrubs and bath bombs (anything from rose and lychee to baobab-seed oil). They also offer massage treatments (from US$30), manicures and pedicures.
Prime Art GalleryART
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %0772
239805; www.primeart-gallery.com;
Adam Stander Dr, Elephant's
Walk; h8am-5pm)
This quality gallery, run by two friendly brothers, represents more than 40 local artists, most notably it has original pieces by Dominic Benhura, Zimbabwe's pre-eminent current-day Shona sculptor whose worked has been exhibited around the world.
Ndau CollectionJEWELLERY
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %013-386221; www.ndaucollectionstore.com;
Adam Stander Dr, Elephant's
Walk; h8am-6pm)
This upmarket showroom stocks handmade individual pieces, including silver bracelets, rings and necklaces, made at its on-site studio. They also sell exquisite antique African trade beads to be incorporated into custom-made jewellery. Its range of organic fragrances made using local ingredients is also popular, as are its croc-skin purses and briefcases.
8Information
Dangers & Annoyances
Mugging is not such a problem any more, but at dawn and dusk wild animals such as elephants and warthogs do roam the streets away from the town centre, so take taxis at these times. Although it’s perfectly safe to walk to and from the falls, it’s advisable to stick to the more touristed areas.
Internet Access
Most lodges and restaurants offer wi-fi;
otherwise there are a few internet cafes about town, including
Econet (
GOOGLE MAP ;
Park Way; per
30min/1hr US$1/2;
h8am-5pm
Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat & Sun).
Money
Barclays Bank ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; off Livingstone Way)
Standard Chartered Bank ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; off Livingstone Way)
Post
Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; off Livingstone Way)
Tourist Information
Backpackers Bazaar Definitive place for all tourist info and bookings.
Zimbabwe Tourism Authority (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %013-44202,
0772 225427;
zta@vicfalls.ztazim.co.zw;
Park Way; h8am-6pm) A few brochures, but not very useful.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Victoria Falls Airport ( GOOGLE MAP ) is located 18km southeast of town. Its new international terminal opened in late 2015.
While nothing compared to the heydays of the 1980s and '90s, there's still no shortage of flights arriving at Victoria Falls. Most come from Johannesburg (US$150 to US$500 return). There are also regular flights from Harare with FastJet and Air Zimbabwe for as little as US$20.
Check out www.flightsite.co.za or www.travelstart.co.za, where you can search all the airlines including low-cost carriers (and car-hire companies) for the cheapest flights and then book yourself.
Air Namibia
(%0771 401918,
0774 011320;
www.airnamibia.com)
Air Zimbabwe
(%013-44665,
013-443168, 0712 212121;
www.airzimbabwe.aero)
British Airways
(%013-2053; www.britishairways.com)
FastJet (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%86 7700
6060; www.fastjet.com/zw;
cnr Livingstone Way and Parkway
Dr; h9am-4pm
Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat)
South African
Airways (%04-702702; www.flysaa.com)
Bus & Shared Taxi
Though its standards have dropped in
recent years, Intercape Pathfinder (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %0778
888880; www.intercapepathfinder.com)
easily remains the safest and most comfortable bus company in
Zimbabwe.
To Bulawayo & Harare
Intercape Pathfinder has departures for Hwange National Park (US$10, two hours), Bulawayo (US$15, six hours) and Harare (US$35, 12 hours) on Wednesday, Friday and Sunday at 7.30am from outside the Kingdom Hotel. You can book tickets online. If you're heading to Hwange National Park, you'll need to tell the driver beforehand as it only stops there on request. There's no direct bus to Harare, so you'll have to transfer to an awaiting bus at Bulawayo.
From Chinotimba Bus Terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ), Bravo Tours and Extra City have departures throughout the day to Bulawayo (US$13) and Harare (US$25). Buy tickets at the bus station. They can also drop you on the main road outside Hwange National Park, but you'll need to pre-arrange transport from there.
Note that, due to the prevalence of elephants and donkeys on the road, it's best to avoid this journey at night.
To Johannesburg
These days it's almost quicker to fly, but otherwise you can take the Intercape Pathfinder from Vic Falls to Bulawayo, then connect with Intercaper Greyhound to Johannesburg.
Car & Motorcycle
If you’re driving a rented car into Zambia, you need to make sure you have insurance and carbon tax papers, as well original owner documents. When you enter Zambia you are issued with a Temporary Import Permit, valid for while you are in the country. This must be returned to immigration for them to acquit the vehicle.
Train
A popular way of getting to/from
Victoria Falls is by the overnight Mosi-oa-Tunya train
that leaves Victoria Falls daily at 7pm for Bulawayo
(economy/2nd/1st class US$8/10/12, 12 hours). First class
(comprising two-berth compartments) is the only way to go. Be aware
that delays of several hours aren't uncommon, and you'll need to
bring your own food. Make reservations at the ticket office (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; h7am-noon
& 2-7pm) inside the
train station.
The luxurious Rovos
Rail (%in South
Africa 012-315 8242;
www.rovos.com; from
US$1650) to Pretoria
also departs from here.
8Getting Around
Car & Motorcycle
Zimbabwe Car
Hire (%09-230306,
0783 496253;
www.zimbabwecarhire.com;
Victoria Falls
Airport) gets positive
reviews for its good rates, and is a good place for 4WDs. All the
big name companies, such as Hertz (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%013-47012; www.hertz.co.za; 1 Bata Bldg,
Parkway; h8am-5pm
Mon-Fri), Avis (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%091
2511128; www.avis.com; 251
Livingstone Way) and
Europcar (%013-43466; Victoria
Falls Airport), have
offices in town and at the airport.
Taxi
A taxi around town costs about US$10, or slightly more after dark.