Gweta

Pop 4689

Gweta, just off the Nata–Maun highway, is a dusty and laid-back crossroads town on the edge of the pans, framed by bushveld and big skies. Given that the petrol station here has been dry for years, the only real reason to stop is to stay overnight, or as your entry point to one of Uncharted Africa's camps further south. The name of the village is derived from the croaking sound made by large bullfrogs, which, incredibly, bury themselves in the pan sand until the rains provide sufficient water for them to emerge and mate.

4Sleeping & Eating

Gweta LodgeLODGE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%76 212 220; www.gwetalodge.com; camping P80, standard/premium r P700/1100, f P1000; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

In the centre of town, Gweta Lodge is a friendly place that combines a lovely bar and pool area with a range of accommodation options spread around the leafy grounds. The rooms are large and comfortable, the campsites are excellent and activities include half-day/overnight tours of Ntwetwe Pan and its human-habituated meerkats (P650/1150) as well as walking tours of the village (P150).

Shayna and James are welcoming hosts, and lunch and dinner are served by the pool.

Planet BaobabLODGE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%in South Africa +27 11-447 1605; www.unchartedafrica.com; camping per adult/child US$15/8, s/d/q huts from US$165/190/600; icon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

About 4km east of Gweta, a huge concrete aardvark marks the turn-off for Planet Baobab. This inventive lodge forsakes masks and wildlife photos, replaced by a great open-air bar-restaurant (meals P45 to P90) filled with vintage travel posters, metal seats covered in cowhide, beer-bottle chandeliers and the like. Outside, colourfully painted rondavels lie scattered over the gravel.

Staff contribute to a vibe as funky as it is friendly, while campers can pitch a tent beneath the shade of a baobab tree. There's a wide range of activities, including quad biking, spending time with some habituated meerkats and creative pan excursions of up to four nights.

8Getting There & Away

You're quite a distance from anywhere here: Gweta is 205km from Maun, 290km from Francistown, 416km from Kasane and 491km from Ghanzi. Hourly combis travelling to Francistown (P54, three hours) and Maun (P65, four hours) pass along the main road.

SEASONS ON THE PANS

As everywhere in Botswana, seasons play an important role in determining what sort of experience you’re likely to have here. In the dry season, from May to October, the great salt pans are long, low and white, curtained by an electric-blue sky and pulsing with an unstoppable glare. During the sizzling heat of the late winter (August), the stark pans take on a disorienting and ethereal austerity. Heat mirages destroy the senses as imaginary lakes shimmer and disappear, ostriches take flight, and stones turn to mountains and float in mid-air. But as the annual rains begin to fall in the late spring, depressions in the pans form temporary lakes and fringing grasses turn green with life. Herd animals arrive to partake of the bounty, while water birds flock to feed on algae and tiny crustaceans. A word of warning: wet pans make for perilous driving at this time.

Sowa Pan

Sowa (also spelt Sua) Pan, at the eastern end of the Makgadikgadi Pans network, is mostly a single sheet of salt-encrusted mud stretching across the lowest basin in northeastern Botswana. Sowa means ‘salt’ in the language of the San, who once mined the pan to sell salt to the Bakalanga. Today it is mined by the Sua Pan Soda Ash Company, which sells sodium carbonate for industrial manufacturing.

Nata Delta

During the rainy season (November to May), huge flocks of water birds congregate at the Nata Delta, which is formed when the Nata River flows into the northern end of the Sowa Pan. When the rains are at their heaviest (December to February), the pan is covered with a thin film of water that reflects the sky and obliterates the horizon in a hallucinatory, perspective-challenging panorama.

The easiest place to visit the Nata delta is the Nata Bird Sanctuary.

Sowa Spit

This long, slender protrusion extends into the heart of the pan and is the nexus of Botswana’s lucrative soda-ash industry. Although security measures prevent public access to the plant, private vehicles can proceed as far as Sowa village on the pan’s edge. Views of the pan from the village are limited, though they’re better if you’re travelling through the area in a 4WD.

Kubu Island

Along the southwestern edge of Sowa Pan is a ghostly, baobab-laden rock, entirely surrounded by a sea of salt. In Setswana, kubu means ‘hippopotamus’ (in ancient times this was a real island on a real lake inhabited by hippos). It’s not only the name that evokes a more fertile past – the fossilised shit of water birds that once perched here overlooking the waters still adorns the boulders.

As unlikely as it may seem, given the current environment and climate, this desolate area may have been inhabited by people as recently as 500 years ago. On one shore lies an ancient crescent-shaped stone wall of unknown origin, which has yielded numerous artefacts, testament to those who lived here before the waters dried up (some think it served as a space in male initiation ceremonies).

The island (www.kubuisland.com) is now protected as a national monument, administered by the local Gaing-O-Community Trust.

4Sleeping

icon-top-choiceoKubu Island CampsiteCAMPGROUND$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%75 494 669; www.kubuisland.com; Lekhubu, S 20°53.460’, E 25°49.318’; camping per adult/child P100/50)

This sprawling campground has 14 sites and is one of Botswana’s loveliest, with baobabs as a backdrop to most campsites, many of which also have sweeping views of the pan. There are bucket showers and pit toilets. The views from the island itself are some of the most evocative anywhere on the pans, although there's little wildlife around.

8Getting There & Away

Access to Kubu Island involves negotiating a maze of grassy islets and salty bays. Increased traffic has now made the route considerably clearer, but drivers still need a 4WD and a compass or Global Positioning System (GPS) equipment set with Tracks4Africa. The island can be difficult to reach after rains.

From the Nata–Maun highway, the track starts near Zoroga (GPS: S 20°10.029’, E 25°56.898’), about 24km west of Nata. After about 72km, the village of Thabatshukudu (GPS: S 20°42.613’, E 25°47.482’) will appear on a low ridge. This track then skirts the western edge of a salt pan for 10.3km before passing through a veterinary checkpoint. Just under 2km further south, a track (17km) heads southeast to the northern end of Kubu.

From the Francistown–Rakops Rd, turn north at the junction for Letlhakane and proceed 25km until you reach Mmatshumo village. About 21km further north is a veterinary checkpoint. After another 7.5km, an 18km track heads northeast to the southern end of Kubu. This turn-off (GPS: S 20°56.012’, E 25°40.032’) is marked by a small cairn.

Ntwetwe Pan

The Ntwetwe Pan was fed by the Boteti River until it was left permanently dry following the construction of the Mopipi Dam, which provides water for the diamond mines in Orapa. The waters may have returned to the river but Ntwetwe is now famous for its extraordinary lunar landscape, particularly the rocky outcrops, dunes, islets, channels and spits found along the western shore.

1Sights

icon-top-choiceoChapman’s BaobabLANDMARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; S 20°29.392’, E 25°14.979’)

About 11km south of Green's Baobab is the turn-off to the far more impressive Chapman’s Baobab, which, until it crashed to the ground suddenly on 7 January 2016, had a circumference of 25m and roots that extended 1km out into the surrounding area. It was historically used as a navigation beacon and may also have been used as an early post office by passing explorers, traders and travellers, many of whom left inscriptions on its trunk.

If anything, the fallen version of the tree is even more impressive, allowing you to clamber atop and inside this vast fallen life force.

Gabatsadi IslandLANDMARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

The enormous crescent-shaped dune known as Gabatsadi Island has an expansive view from the crest that has managed to attract the likes of Prince Charles. (He went there to capture the indescribably lonely scene in watercolour, but the paints ran because it was so hot!) The island lies just west of the Gweta–Orapa track, about 48km south of Gweta.

Green’s BaobabLANDMARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; S 20°25.543’, E 25°13.859’)

On the Gweta–Orapa track, 27km south of Gweta, is Green’s Baobab, which was inscribed by the 19th-century hunters and traders Joseph Green and Hendrik Matthys van Zyl, as well as other ruthless characters. Aside from the historical references, it's impressive primarily for the stark contrast it offers with the arid, table-flat surrounds.

TTours

Uncharted AfricaTOURS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%in South Africa +27 11-447 1605; www.unchartedafrica.com)

The company that runs Planet Baobab and the three luxurious tented camps on Ntwetwe Pan also organises multiday mobile safaris across the Makgadikgadi Pans area and further afield. The company has a certain cachet that's the legacy of five generations of the same family, and is lent much fame by its larger-than-life leaders, the late Jack Bousfield and son Ralph.

4Sleeping & Eating

In a remote corner of Ntwetwe Pan, Uncharted Africa, the same company that manages Planet Baobab in Gweta, operates three exclusive tented camps: Camp Kalahari, Jack's Camp and San Camp. As much of the area is part of its private concession, free camping is not permitted.

Camp KalahariTENTED CAMP$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%in South Africa +27 11-447 1605; www.unchartedafrica.com; s/d mid-Apr–Oct US$902/1440, per person Nov–mid-Apr US$528)

The cheaper, family-friendly version of Uncharted Africa's trio of camps, Camp Kalahari is nonetheless luxurious. Beautiful safari tents brimful of old-world safari fittings (antiques, wood furnishings, thatch) and colour schemes, and a full suite of activities (quad biking, horse riding, meerkats and San nature walks) make this a fine choice.

Jack’s CampTENTED CAMP$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%in South Africa +27 11-447 1605; www.unchartedafrica.com; all-inclusive s/d mid-Apr–Oct & last 10 days of Dec US$1945/3070, per person rest of year US$1225; icon-swimgifs)

Hemingway would have loved this place. Set up for safari romantics, the whole aesthetic, complete with a classic maroon and dark-khaki colour scheme, is East African–style safaris c1940s. Regal linens, heavy wood furnishings, four-poster beds and big wooden chests furnish the canvas tents, which are romantically lit by paraffin lanterns by night (no electricity).

Inhabiting its own, oasis-like palm island that rises gently above the surrounding salt pans, Jack's Camp also has a central ‘mess tent’ that operates as a field museum where local guides and world-renowned experts deliver lectures and lead discussions on the area’s flora and fauna against a backdrop of museum-standard exhibits (including stuffed lion and aardvark, historic paintings and bookshelves that owe far more to hard-to-find Africana and serious tomes than books left behind by travellers). There’s also a separate tea tent where you can indulge in high tea while relaxing on oriental rugs and cushions.

Dry-season wildlife is scarce but you've a front-row seat for the rainy-season zebra migration. Other major highlights include a nearby brown hyena den, a couple of families of human-habituated meerkats (if you're lucky, one might use your head as a lookout post, for that ultimate safari photo opp), and there are usually lions in the area; we even saw an aardvark on one of our night drives.

In addition to wildlife drives, activities include quad biking, sundowners out on the pans, one of the more authentic 'Bushman nature walk' experiences we encountered anywhere in Botswana, and horse-riding safaris.

Rates include full board and all activities.

San CampTENTED CAMP$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%in South Africa +27 11-447 1605; www.unchartedafrica.com; s/d US$1665/2570; icon-hoursgifhmid-Apr–mid-Oct)

This outpost of sophistication is an utterly lovely place to stay. The pristine white tents, which appear like perfectly spaced pavillions on tongues of grassland sticking out onto the salt pans, surrounded by date palms, have a lovely lightness and airiness about them. The four-poster beds and old travelling chests are offset by dazzling whites and soft tones.

There's a classy and classic-style dining tent, tea tent and activities that range from wildlife drives (the human-habituated meerkats and brown hyenas are a highlight) to horse riding and quad biking.

8Getting There & Away

Most travellers arrange their air transfer through Uncharted Africa when making their accommodation booking. Air fares cost around US$150 per person one way from Maun. Road transfer from Gweta costs around US$110 per person one way, and escorts (with your own 4WD) from Gweta cost US$55 per vehicle.

Makgadikgadi Pans National Park

This 3900-sq-km park (per day per nonresident/vehicle P120/50; icon-hoursgifh6am-6.30pm Apr-Sep, 5.30am-7pm Oct-Mar), the southern section of the Makgadikgadi and Nxai Pans National Park, extends from the Boteti River in the west to the Ntwetwe Pan in the east. The return of water to the Boteti River in recent years has drawn plenty of wildlife, particularly in the dry season from May to October, when the river, even at low levels, is the only source of permanent water in the reserve. The Boteti River has hippos a few kilometres northwest of Khumaga Campsite.

Out in the east of the park, the wildlife is less accustomed to vehicles, but watch for zebras, gemsboks and the occasional predator. Birdlife is especially rich along the Boteti River, from the plague-like red-billed queleas to much rarer African fish-eagles and wattled cranes. Out in the east, you're more likely to see vultures and birds of prey.

4Sleeping

There are some great campsites, either overlooking the Boteti River or out in the remote grasslands in the park's far east. A handful of luxury lodges sit atop the western bank of the Boteti River, just outside the park's boundaries.

Khumaga CampsiteCAMPGROUND$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%686 5365; www.sklcamps.com; S 20°27.311’, E 24°30.968’; camping per adult/child US$50/25)

The Khumaga Campsite sits high above the Boteti River and is an attractive site with good shade, braai pits and an excellent ablutions block with flush toilets and (usually) hot showers. Some readers have complained of night-time noise from the village across the river, but the last time we slept here all we could hear was a frog symphony.

Tree Island CampsiteCAMPGROUND$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; S 20°29.147’, E 24°55.053’; camping P30)

Deliciously remote and overlooking a series of attractive small pans that are stunning around sunrise and sunset, Tree Island has three lovely sites that are slightly elevated above the surrounding grasslands and live up to their name with an oasis of shade. Site No 1 is our favourite, but it's a close-run thing.

Long-drop toilets and bucket showers sit adjacent to each site.

This site is especially good in the wet season, as the zebra migration passes by.

When we last visited, Tree Island was still to make an appearance on the Tracks4Africa GPS system. Ask for a paper map from the park gate when you enter, set your GPS to Njuca Hills Campsite, and follow the paper map from the Njuca Hills turn-off.

Njuca Hills CampsiteCAMPGROUND$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; S 20°25.807’, E 24°52.395’)

This pair of remote hilltop sites is out in the far east of the Makgadikgadi Pans section of the park. They have a neglected air, and the government occasionally closes the sites, but there's plenty of shade, the surrounding grasslands are attractive and the sense of isolation is palpable.

Meno a KwenaTENTED CAMP$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%camp 71 326 089, reservations 686 0981; www.menoakwena.com; s/d US$966/1380)

The name means 'Teeth of the Crocodile', and you can indeed see some down by the river from Meno a Kwena's riverbank perch. There are nine luxury tents with safari nostalgia furnishings – gold-plated lamps, heavy wooden chests, Persian rugs – and each faces the Boteti River valley. Excellent food is another feature, as are brilliant sunrise views.

Apart from wildlife drives, activities include 'Bushman walks' and even a floating wildlife-viewing hide when water levels are sufficiently high. Longer expeditions to the pans are also possible.

Leroo-La-TauLODGE$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%686 1559; www.desertdelta.com; all-inclusive per person Jan-Apr US$476, s/d May-Dec US$1113/1712; icon-parkgifpicon-swimgifs)

Luxury East African–style canvas tents with private verandahs overlooking the Boteti River make for some of the best views in the northwestern Kalahari. The lodge is just across the river from the reserve, but game drives yield excellent wildlife viewing, especially those that range along the riverbank and riverbed, depending on water levels.

Otherwise, expect expansive rooms, wonderful facilities and professional service. Rates include full board, wildlife drives, bushwalks and a range of activities.

Note that you're quite a long way from pans themselves here, but the wildlife in the area can be excellent nonetheless, and sunset, when the animals come down to drink, is the time to nurse a sundowner on the veranda.

THE LIONS OF MAKGADIKGADI

No one knows quite how many lions inhabit the Makgadikgadi and Nxai Pans National Park – the closest that scientists come to knowing is a lower estimate of 50 and an upper limit of no more than 200. In the dry season (roughly April to October) these lions are concentrated in greatest numbers at the western limit of their range, close to the massed herds of herbivores along the Boteti River. When the rains come and the herds disperse, the lions follow suit. Thus it is that, having adapted to the meagre resources of the northern Kalahari, the Makgadikgadi lions cover far greater distances than lions elsewhere where prey is plentiful. They also live in smaller, more mobile social groups.

But perhaps their greatest adaptation is one that suggests that Makgadikgadi's lions are, it seems, rather clever. Between 1993 and 2008, the Boteti River all but dried up, prompting wildlife to cross the riverbed and enter the human-dominated world of villages and cattle posts. When the lions attacked domesticated livestock, conflict was inevitable. In response, the lions studied by one scientific project adopted a remarkably sophisticated set of strategies for avoiding human beings and their retaliation.

For a start, lions rarely moved any closer than 3km to cattle posts and whenever they killed a cow or goat, it was, on average, 4.5km from the nearest cattle post. More than that, lions avoided human-inhabited areas between 6am and 8pm – the time of the day when human beings were most likely to be out and about. Most surprising of all, the study found that lions passing through human-dominated areas moved at a normal lion speed until they reached an uncannily accurate distance of 6km from the nearest human settlement. At this point, the lions accelerated. Once past the danger, they slowed down again and continued on their way.

8Getting There & Away

The main entrance to the park is Phuduhudu Gate (S 20°12.439’, E 24°33.346’), 141km west of Nata and 164km east of Maun, 100km south of the Gweta–Maun road.

There’s another entrance, Khumaga Gate (S 20°28.333’, E 24°31.056’), close to Khumaga Campsite, but you’ll need to cross the river on a pontoon ferry ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%74 002 228; per vehicle P150; icon-hoursgifh6am-6.30pm Apr-Sep, 5.30am-7pm Oct-Mar).

Otherwise, there's the little-used XireXawa Gate (S 20°25.384’, E 24°7.093’) in the far east of the park.

8Getting Around

A 4WD is needed to drive around the park, and the road from the main gate to the Khumaga Campsite is deep sand in places. Out in the east, the road running from Khumaga towards XireXawa is quite rutted at the beginning, but later becomes smoother as it crosses sweeping grasslands that dominate the east.

AFRICA'S UNKNOWN MIGRATION

Less known than the vast congregations of wildebeest in the Serengeti, Botswana's epic zebra migration is one of Africa's grandest and most underrated spectacles.

For much of the dry season, particularly from May or June to October, the more-than-25,000 zebras that inhabit the Makgadikgadi and Nxai Pans National Park gather together close to the only permanent water sources in the region, in the far west of the salt-pan network. In recent years that has meant along the Boteti River, which marks the western boundary of the Makgadikgadi Pans section of the park.

When the rains begin to fall in Botswana in November or December, the zebras, accompanied by smaller numbers of wildebeest, migrate east across the pans – with water now plentiful across the pans, the herds are no longer trapped in the west and can roam more freely. The rains are also usually when zebra mothers give birth – zebra foals can walk within an hour of birth, a necessary adaptation given the fact that lions, hyenas and other predators stalk the herds.

By April and into May, the herds have largely returned to the Boteti River, although some remain in the east into June.

Nxai Pans National Park

This 2578-sq-km park ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; per day per nonresident/vehicle P120/50; icon-hoursgifh6am-6.30pm Apr-Sep, 5.30am-7pm Oct-Mar) is one of the most accessible places to experience the salt pans that are a Kalahari speciality, although it's more about smaller pans surrounded by grasslands and scrubby vegetation than the vast, salty wastes that you find further south. Wildlife is a highlight here; elephants, giraffes and jackals are pretty much guaranteed, and you have a good chance to see lions and cheetahs as well. The grassy expanse of the park is interesting during the rains, when large animal herds migrate from the south and predators arrive to take advantage of the bounty; it’s also impressive when the land is dry and dust clouds migrate over the scrub and umbrella acacias.

The park also occupies an important historical area: crossing the park is the old Pandamatenga Trail, which once connected a series of bore holes and was used until the 1960s for overland cattle drives.

1Sights

The main water hole is good for elephants, jackals and other plains wildlife, while the 12km Baobab Loop in the park's northwest has a good combination of sheltering scrub, seasonal water holes and open grasslands. The park's eastern reaches get little traffic and feel wonderfully remote. The pans in the far northeast are often deserted.

Ask at the park entrance for the latest locations of lion and cheetah sightings.

Baines’ BaobabsLANDMARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; S 20°06.726’, E 24°46.136’)

In the south of the park are the famous Baines’ Baobabs, which were immortalised in paintings by the artist and adventurer Thomas Baines in 1862. Baines, a self-taught naturalist, artist and cartographer, had originally been a member of David Livingstone’s expedition up the Zambezi, but was mistakenly accused of theft by Livingstone’s brother and forced to leave the party. Today, a comparison with Baines’ paintings reveals that in almost 150 years, only one branch has broken off.

THOMAS BAINES

The extravagantly bearded Thomas Baines (1820–75) may not be a household name, having spent much of his life in the shadow of more famous types such as David Livingstone, but he was a distinguished explorer, botanist, artist and naturalist in his own right.

In Botswana he's known for his paintings of Baines' Baobab in what is now Nxai Pans National Park, but he actually gave his name to 17 new plant species held in the Royal Botanic Gardens in Kew, discovered a new genus of beetle that bears his name (Bolbotritus bainesi) and is credited with furthering our knowledge of the tstese fly. He was also the first official war artist for the British colonial authorities in South Africa. He is best known for his exploration and artistic work with colonial expeditions in outback Australia but is, sadly, most remembered for the accusations of theft levelled against him during Livingstone's expedition of Southern Africa. Livingstone’s brother, who had made the accusation, later realised his mistake (but never publicly admitted it), yet Baines became the subject of ridicule in Britain. It was after his dismissal, on his subsequent journey to Namibia, that he painted many of his more famous works.

He published two books about his African travels: Explorations in South-West Africa: being an account of a journey in the years 1861 and 1862 from Walvisch Bay, on the Western Coast, to Lake Ngami and the Victoria Falls (1864) and The gold regions of south eastern Africa (1877).

4Sleeping

Two self-drive campsites and a luxury thatched lodge make up Nxai Pans' accommodation choice. There may not be much choice, but availability tends to be higher here than other Botswana parks, and it keeps a lid on the number of safari vehicles exploring the park at any one time.

icon-top-choiceoBaines' BaobabsCAMPGROUND$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%reservations 686 2221; www.xomaesites.com; S 20°08.362’, E 24°46.213’; campsing per adult/child P400/200)

Just three sites sit close to the famed baobabs, and it's a wonderfully evocative site once the daytrippers go home – this is the best place to camp in the park, though wildlife is scarce. There are bucket showers and pit toilets.

South CampCAMPGROUND$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%reservations 686 2221; www.xomaesites.com; S 19°56.159’, E 24°46.598’; camping per adult/child P300/150)

Around 37km from the park gate along a sandy track, South Camp has 10 sites clustered quite close together behind some trees at the edge of one of the pans. There’s a good ablutions block with flush toilets and solar hot-water showers, as well as braai pits.

It's at its best when things are quiet, but is a little busy for our liking when full. It's the best base in the park if wildlife is your reason for being here.

Nxai Pan CampTENTED CAMP$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%686 1449; www.kwando.co.bw; s/d US$620/880; icon-swimgifs)

Out in the park's quiet northwestern corner, Nxai Pan Camp has eight rooms done up in an African-modern style, curving in a crescent around an open plain. Inside, smooth linens and indoor and outdoor showers do a good job of pushing the whole rustic-luxury vibe.

Some of the decor's a little dated and it's a touch below the uberluxury of some of the delta camps (but prices, too, are considerably lower). You can watch elephants, zebras and cheetahs cross the grassland from a large, polished deck, or from the comfort of a pool.

8Information

Ask at the park entrance for the photocopied park map, which shows the water holes and major routes through the park.

8Getting There & Away

The main entrance to the park is at Makolwane Gate, which is about 140km east of Maun and 60km west of Gweta. Some 35km north of this park gate is an additional entrance (18km north of the Baines' Baobab turn-off), where you may need to sign in.

8Getting Around

A 4WD is required to get around the national park. When we visited, the main track from Makolwane Gate to north of the Baines' Baobab turn-off consisted of deep sand and deep ruts – you're unlikely to get stuck but it's a jarring experience.

Two tracks lead from the main track to Baines’ Baobabs. When we visited, the longer, northernmost of the two was much easier to traverse, but ask at the park gate.

DRIVING SAFELY ON THE PANS

Prospective drivers should keep in mind that salt pans can have a mesmerising effect, even creating a sense of unfettered freedom. Once you drive out onto the salt, remember that direction, connection, reason and common sense appear to dissolve. Although you may be tempted to speed off with wild abandon into the white and empty distance, exercise caution and restrain yourself. You should be aware of where you are at all times by using a map and compass (GPS units are not foolproof).

As a general rule, always follow the tracks of other drivers – these tracks are a good indication that the route is dry. In addition, never venture out onto the pans unless you’re absolutely sure the salty surface and the clay beneath are dry. Foul-smelling salt means a wet and potentially dangerous pan, which is very similar in appearance and texture to wet concrete. When underlying clay becomes saturated, vehicles can break through the crust and become irretrievably bogged. If you do get bogged and have a winch, anchor the spare wheel or the jack – anything to which the winch may be attached – by digging a hole and planting it firmly in the clay. Hopefully, you’ll be able to anchor it better than the pan has anchored the vehicle.

It is important to stress that exploring the pans properly and independently requires more of a 4WD expedition than a casual drive. Lost travellers are frequently rescued from the pans, and there have been a number of fatalities over the years. And remember: never underestimate the effect the pans can have on your sense of direction.

Chobe National Park

Famed for some of the world's largest herds of massive elephants, Chobe National Park (per day per nonresident/vehicle P120/50; icon-hoursgifh6am-6.30pm Apr-Sep, 5.30am-7pm Oct-Mar) in Botswana's far northeastern corner is one of the great wildlife destinations of Africa. In addition to the mighty pachyderms, a full suite of predators and more than 440 recorded bird species are present; watch for roan antelope and the rare oribi antelope.

Chobe was first set aside as a wildlife reserve in the 1930s and became Botswana’s first national park in 1968. It encompasses three iconic wildlife areas that all carry a whiff of safari legend: Chobe Riverfront, which supports the park's largest wildlife concentration; the newly accessible and Okavango-like Linyanti Marshes; and the remote and soulful Savuti, with wildlife to rival anywhere.

Whether you’re self-driving and camping under the stars, or flying into your luxury lodge, Chobe can be enjoyed by everyone.

Kasane

icon-phonegif%15,000

Kasane lies in a riverine woodland at the meeting point of four countries – Botswana, Zambia, Namibia and Zimbabwe – and the confluence of two major rivers, the Chobe and the Zambezi. It’s also the northern gateway to Chobe National Park, and the jumping-off point for excursions to Victoria Falls. Although it’s nowhere near as large or developed as Maun, there’s certainly no shortage of lodges and safari companies, as well as petrol stations and supermarkets for those heading out into the wilds.

About 12km east of Kasane is the tiny settlement of Kazungula, which serves as the border crossing between Botswana and Zimbabwe; it's also the landing pint for the Kazungula ferry, which connects Botswana and Zambia.

1Sights

Kasane has little to detain you, and most people use it as a base for visiting nearby Chobe National Park.

Caracal Biodiversity CentreZOO

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%625 2392; www.caracal.info; Airport Rd; P50; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm)

Signposted as Biodiversity Centre, about halfway between the main highway and the Chobe Safari Lodge, this research and education centre rescues small wildlife species, then rehabilitates some into the wild and keeps the rest. It has some birds, a mongoose or two and a particularly large selection of snakes. If the latter give you frisson, this is the place to look at them through the glass.

2Activities

Most lodges and campsites organise three-hour wildlife drives into Chobe National Park (from P200), three-hour boat trips along Chobe Riverfront (from P200) and full-day excursions to Victoria Falls (from P1350) across the border in Zimbabwe.

In addition to those outfits that operate out of the lodges, numerous safari companies operate out of Kasane.

Mowana Golf CourseGOLF

( GOOGLE MAP ; http://mowanasafarilodge.net; 9/18 holes P150/280, club rental P150)

Part of the Cresta Mowana Lodge complex, this nine-hole golf course is beautiful – well maintained, with plenty of water. Caddies are on hand if you think you'd benefit from a little local knowledge.

TTours

GeckoTOURS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%625 2562; www.oldhousekasane.com)

Three-hour boat cruises, full-day expeditions into Chobe National Park and a Victoria Falls day trip. Canoe and fishing trips add variety to the usual game drives.

Pangolin Photography SafarisSAFARI

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.pangolinphoto.com; 3hr game drives or boat trips US$120)

Photography tours along the Chobe Riverfront using the latest cameras with instruction thrown in; park fees cost extra. Its custom-made boats ensure that everyone has a front-row seat.

Kalahari Holiday ToursSAFARI

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%625 0880; www.kalaharichobe.com)

Half-, full- and multiday safaris into Chobe, as well as full-day trips to Vic Falls (US$110 to US$160).

CHOBE NATIONAL PARK AT A GLANCE

Why Go?

Chobe is one of Botswana’s most accessible and varied parks. From the relative isolation of Savuti and Linyanti to the more easily accessed and busier Chobe Riverfront, this is one of Africa’s best parks for watching wildlife.

Gateway Towns

Kasane (for Chobe Riverfront and Linyanti) or Maun (Savuti).

Wildlife

Chobe has tens of thousands of elephants and some of the largest elephant herds in Africa. Savuti is good for predators, Linyanti for hippos and possibly African wild dogs, and Chobe Riverfront for all of the above. Watch also for roan antelope and the rare oribi antelope.

Birdlife

More than 440 species of bird have been recorded here.

When to Go

The best time to visit Chobe is during the dry season (April to October), when wildlife congregates around permanent water sources. Try to avoid January to March, as getting around can be difficult during the rains (although this is peak season for flying into Savuti).

Budget Safaris

Most lodges and many camps in Kasane offer two- to three-hour game drives or boat safaris to Chobe Riverfront for around P200 per person.

Author Tip

Be mindful of the decongestion strategy in Chobe Riverfront.

Practicalities

To avoid vehicle crowding, the Chobe Riverfront section of the park has a decongestion strategy whereby self-drive daytrippers may visit the park only between 9am and 2.30pm. Visit the park gate as soon as you arrive in Kasane to line up your visit, or book a safari through your lodge or camp.

4Sleeping

Kasane has good accommodation across a range of budgets, although it helps if you have your own vehicle as some of the better places are some distance away from the town centre.

SKL Booking OfficeACCOMMODATION SERVICES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.sklcamps.com)

This is the Kasane office for the company that runs the Savuti, Khwai, Linyanti and Khumaga campsites. Don't come here expecting to find room at any of their campsites – most are booked out months in advance.

icon-top-choiceoSenyati Safari CampCAMPGROUND, CHALETS$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%71 881 306; http://senyatisafaricampbotswana.com; off Kazungula-Nata Rd; camping per adult/child from P115/63, s/d/f chalets P450/650/800; icon-acongifaicon-swimgifs)

Off the main highway south of Kazungula (the turn-off is well signposted 6.8km south of Kazungula, from where it’s a further 1.6km off-road), this wonderful spot has comfy chalets and some of northern Botswana’s best campsites, each with their own ablutions block. The bar and some of the chalets overlook a water hole where elephants congregate in large numbers nightly.

There's a relatively new, concealed, ground-level vantage point right next to the water hole. You’ll need your own wheels to reach the lodge.

Old HouseGUESTHOUSE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%625 2562; www.oldhousekasane.com; President Ave; s/d P940/1500; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

Close to the centre, with a lovely intimate feel, the Old House has attractive rooms adjacent to a quiet garden by the riverbank; rooms on the street side can be noisy with a popular bar across the road. The bar-restaurant is one of Kasane’s best, and the rooms are stylish and comfortable without being overdone.

Chobe River CottagesCOTTAGE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%625 2863, 75 663 152; www.choberivercottages.com; President Ave; r P1200-1320; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

Self-catering cottages here probably wouldn't win a style award, but they're well maintained and offer a fine alternative to hotel ambience. It can also organise a full range of activities.

Thebe River CampingLODGE, CAMPGROUND$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%625 0995; www.theberiversafaris.com; Kasane-Kazungula Rd; camping P115, tent P475, tw/f P800/1200; icon-swimgifs)

Perched alongside the Chobe River, this leafy backpackers lodge is one of Kasane's more budget-friendly options. Well-groomed campsites are located near braai pits and a modern ablutions block with steamy showers and flush toilets. There’s also a thatched bar-restaurant that serves cheap food and cold beers – come night, if there is anything going on in Kasane, it’s going on here.

Toro Safari LodgeLODGE, CAMPGROUND$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%625 2694; www.torosafarilodge.com; off Kasane-Kazungula Rd; camping per person P110, chalets from P780, apt P1180; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-swimgifs)

Down a side road off the main Kasane–Kazungula road, this excellent place has campsites beneath maturing trees, comfortable chalets (some with river view) and attractive grounds that run along the riverbank.

icon-top-choiceoChobe Bakwena LodgeLODGE$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%625 2812; www.chobebakwena.com; s/d all inclusive May-Oct US$490/760, Nov-Apr US$410/630)

With consistently good reviews from travellers, Bakwena is an excellent place offering the benefits of Chobe River frontage with convenient proximity to Kasane. Chalets, some right on the river, sit high on stilts and there's a prevailing sense of light and space thanks to the ample space and light colour scheme. Service is attentive, adding up to a fine package.

icon-top-choiceoChobe Safari LodgeLODGE$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%625 0336; http://underonebotswanasky.com/camps/chobe-safari-lodge.php; President Ave; camping per adult/child P85/60, r/f from P1265/1675; icon-acongifaicon-swimgifs)

One of the more affordable upmarket lodges in Kasane (or Botswana, for that matter), Chobe Safari is excellent value, especially if you’re travelling with kids (family rooms and tents are available). Understated but comfortable rooms are priced according to size and location, though all feature attractive mosquito-netted beds and modern furnishings. Rates are room only, but it's still outstanding value.

Chobe Marina LodgeLODGE$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%625 2221; www.chobe-marina-lodge.com; President Ave; s/d all-inclusive US$586/900; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

Occupying an attractive spot along the river, Chobe Marina Lodge is conveniently located in the centre of Kasane. The rooms blend African aesthetics and mod cons, and as a result are really rather lovely. Rates include park fees, all meals, activities, and airport transfers. It's probably the pick of the in-town options.

Garden LodgeLODGE$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%625 0051, 71 646 064; www.thegardenlodge.com; President Ave; s/d incl breakfast US$400/550, all-inclusive US$565/860; icon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

This simple but charming lodge is built around a tropical garden and features a number of well-furnished rooms that exude a homey atmosphere. It’s a little more quirky than the average lodge in these parts, with hints of eccentricity that put it above the pack.

Kubu LodgeLODGE$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%625 0312; www.kubulodge.net; Kasane–Kazungula Rd; s/d US$315/410; icon-acongifaicon-swimgifs)

Located 9km east of Kasane, this riverside option lacks the stuffiness and formality found in most other top-end lodges, but is their match for quality. Rustic wooden chalets are lovingly adorned with thick rugs and wicker furniture, and scattered around an impeccably manicured lawn dotted with fig trees.

5Eating

Fine dining is not a Kasane thing. With any luck, your hotel or lodge will have a half-decent restaurant. Otherwise, choices are limited. There are a number of well-stocked supermarkets for self-caterers.

Coffee & CurryINDIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%625 2237; Shop 1AB, Hunters’ Africa Mall, off President Ave; mains P45-70; icon-hoursgifh9am-10pm Mon-Sat, 11am-9pm Sun)

Just about everything (except African!) is served at this simple Indian-run place, with a reasonable selection of curries and other Indian dishes, as well as a few pizzas and Southeast Asian–inspired dishes.

Hot Bread ShopBAKERY$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Hunters’ Africa Mall, off President Ave; icon-hoursgifh7.30am-7pm)

If you’re arriving from the bush and craving freshly baked bread, look no further than this fine place up behind the Shell petrol station. It also does a few cakes and pastries.

Spar SupermarketSUPERMARKET$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Hunters’ Africa Mall, off President Ave; icon-hoursgifh7.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8am-6pm Sat, 8am-5pm Sun)

Kasane’s best supermarket is right in the heart of town.

Choppies SupermarketSUPERMARKET$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-hoursgifh8am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun)

Kasane's cheapest major supermarket.

icon-top-choiceoOld HouseINTERNATIONAL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%625 2562; www.oldhousekasane.com; President Ave; breakfast P50-80, light meals P40-80, mains P50-115)

This open-air bar-restaurant close to the riverbank is every bit as good as the guesthouse it inhabits. The menu contains all the usual suspects such as burgers, toasted sandwiches, salads, steaks and pizzas, with fish and chips not forgotten either. There’s also a kids' menu.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Kasane has plenty of local shebeens (basic street-side bars) – you'll hear them before you see them. Otherwise, most hotels have agreeable bars, sometimes with river or water hole views. For the latter, Senyati Safari Camp's bar overlooks a water hole that's particularly rich in (and close to) elephants.

7Shopping

African Easel Art GalleryARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%625 0828; President Ave, Audi Centre; icon-hoursgifh8am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-12.30pm Sat)

An upmarket gallery exhibiting purchasable work by artists from Botswana, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe, as well as woodcarvings from around the continent.

Chobe Women’s Arts & CraftsARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Airport Rd; icon-hoursgifh8am-5pm)

This NGO-backed store sells locally woven baskets made by the women of the region. The women are often present, and are happy to demonstrate their weaving techniques. You'll find it next to the Caracal Biodiversity Centre.

Kingfisher Trading CoARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; President Ave, Audi Centre; icon-hoursgifh8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-1pm Sat)

A simple shop selling African curios at fixed (though reasonable) prices, as well as fishing gear and a small selection of wildlife books.

BORDER CROSSINGS: KASANE & CHOBE

Kasane stands at a crossroads of countries, with Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe all within an hour’s drive of the town centre.

Namibia

The Ngoma Bridge–Kasane Gate (6am to 6pm) lies 57km west of Kasane and is handy for Namibia’s Zambezi Region (formerly known as the Caprivi Strip). As always, coming into Botswana your car will be searched for ftexresh meat, fresh fruit and dairy products (all of which will be confiscated if found), and you may be required to walk through a soda solution (and drive your car through the same) as part of measures to protect the country from foot-and-mouth disease. Otherwise, this is a relatively hassle-free border crossing.

Zambia

The Kazungula–Mambova Gate (6am to 8pm) requires a river crossing by ferry. Don’t be put off by the extraordinary queue of trucks (some of which wait up to five days to cross this border) – drive to the front of the queue. Leaving or entering Botswana should pose no special problems (save for the usual customs searches and foot-and-mouth controls). For crossing into Zambia, we recommend hiring a local fixer (agree a fee up front, never hand over money until all formalities are completed, and get your fixer’s mobile-phone number and check that it works). It is possible to do it all on your own, but it will take longer and the paperwork required can be confusing. All fees into Zambia are paid in kwacha, apart from the visa fee and road-toll fee (US$48 for Botswana-registered vehicles, US$20 for Namibian or South African vehicles). Sample costs include ZMW30 council levy, ZMW150 carbon tax and ZMW487 third-party insurance.

Zimbabwe

The surprisingly quiet Kazungula–Victoria Falls Gate (6am to 6pm) advertises that the border is open until 10pm, but we wouldn’t count on it. The border is generally hassle-free. Those on day excursions to/from Victoria Falls will encounter few difficulties, while self-drivers can expect around two hours in total, with whispered requests for small ‘gifts’ common among customs officials on the Zimbabwean side. As long as your documents are in order and you're not in a hurry, be firm but calm and refuse all requests and you should be on your way in no time.

8Information

Entry & Exit Formalities

Botswana Immigration A ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) For Kazungula Ferry to Zambia.

Botswana Immigration B ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) For Zimbabwe.

Namibia Immigration ( GOOGLE MAP ) Namibia immigration office for Mpalila Island.

Zimbabwe Immigration ( GOOGLE MAP ) Zimbabwe border crossing.

Medical Services

Chobe Private Clinic ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%625 1555; President Ave) Offers 24-hour emergency services.

Kasane Hospital ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%625 0333; President Ave) Public hospital on the main road.

Money

Barclays Bank ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Hunters’ Africa Mall, off President Ave; icon-hoursgifh8.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.15-10.45am Sat) Offers better exchange rates than the bureaux de change. Be sure to stock up on US dollars (post-1996) if you’re heading to Zimbabwe.

Cape to Cairo Bureau de Change & Internet ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Hunters’ Africa Mall, off President Ave; icon-hoursgifh8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 4.30pm Sat) Charges 3% commission on cash, 4% on travellers cheques.

Open Door Bureau de Change ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; President Ave; icon-hoursgifh8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4.30pm Sat) Next to Choppies Supermarket; charges 2% commission on cash, 3% on travellers cheques.

Post

Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP )

Chobe Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; Hunters’ Africa Mall, off President Ave; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat)

Tourist Information

Tourist Office ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%625 0555; www.botswanatourism.co.bw; Hunters’ Africa Mall, off President Ave; icon-hoursgifh7.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat) Plenty of brochures for lodges and safari companies, and generally helpful, although you’re better off visiting the park gate for information on Chobe National Park.

Department of Wildlife & National Parks (DWNP; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%625 0235; Sedudu Gate) This is the place to pay for your park permit and get information on visiting Chobe National Park.

Chobe National Park Entrance ( GOOGLE MAP ) Information and entry for Chobe Riverfront.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Air Botswana ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%625 0161; www.airbotswana.co.bw) connects Kasane to Maun (P715) and Gaborone (P2060), and has an office at Kasane airport, which is near the centre of town.

Local Transport

Combis heading to Francistown (P110, seven hours), Maun (P120, six hours) and Nata (P105, five hours) run when full from the Shell petrol station and bus terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ) on Mabele Rd.

Car & Motorcycle

The direct route between Kasane and Maun is only accessible by 4WD, and may be impassable after heavy rains. There is nowhere along the Kasane–Maun road to buy fuel, food or drinks, or to get vehicle repairs. Most traffic between Kasane and Maun travels via Nata.

4-Ways Shell Petrol Station ( GOOGLE MAP )

Engen Petrol Station ( GOOGLE MAP )

Petrol Station ( GOOGLE MAP )

8Getting Around

Combis travel regularly between Kasane and Kazungula via the ferry ( GOOGLE MAP ), and continue to the immigration posts for Zambia and Zimbabwe if requested. The standard fare for anywhere around Kasane and Kazungula is about P50.

Chobe Riverfront

The Chobe Riverfront rarely disappoints, with arguably Botswana’s densest concentration of wildlife. Although animals are present along the riverfront year-round, the density of wildlife can be overwhelming during the dry season, especially in September and October. Whether you cruise along the river in a motorboat, or drive along the banks in a 4WD, you’re almost guaranteed an up-close encounter with some of the largest elephants on the continent.

If you don’t have your own wheels, any of the hotels and lodges in Kasane can help you organise a wildlife drive or boat cruise along the river. Two- to three-hour cruises and wildlife drives typically cost around P200, though you will also have to pay separate park fees. As always, shop around, compare prices and choose a trip that suits your needs.

12-chobe-riverfront-bon4

4Sleeping

Kasane has the region's richest concentration of places to stay. Inside the park itself, Chobe has accommodation to suit all budgets, with campsites for self-drivers in all three areas of the park (Chobe Riverfront, Linyanti Marshes and Savuti) and luxury lodges and tented camps across the park and its hinterland.

Ihaha CampsiteCAMPGROUND$

( GOOGLE MAP ; kwalatesafari@gmail.com; S 17°50.487’, E 24°52.754’; camping per adult/child P260/130)

Ihaha is the only campsite for self-drivers inside the park along the Chobe Riverfront and it's a wonderful base for watching wildlife. The trees need time to mature and shade can be in short supply at some sites, but the location is excellent – it’s by the water’s edge 27km from the Northern Gate. There’s an ablutions block and braai areas.

Staying here gives you the run of the park without having to negotiate the decongestion strategy that restricts access for those sleeping outside the park.

Chobe Chilwero LodgeLODGE$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%in South Africa +27 11-438 4650; www.sanctuarylodges.com; Airport Rd; per person low/high season from US$590/990; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

Chilwero means ‘place of high view’ in Setswana, and indeed this exclusive lodge boasts panoramic views. Accommodation is in one of 15 elegant bungalows featuring romantic indoor and outdoor showers, private terraced gardens and colonial fixtures adorned with plush linens. The lodge is on expansive grounds that contain a pool, a spa, an outdoor bar and a well-reviewed gourmet restaurant.

The property is set back a little from the riverfront and is surrounded by a fence, meaning you can walk around safely – one big reason why families like this place.

Chobe Game LodgeLODGE$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%625 0340, 625 1761; www.chobegamelodge.com; River Rd; s/d Jul-Oct US$1470/2370, per person Apr-Jun & Nov US$995, Jan-Mar & Dec US$795; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

This highly praised safari lodge is one of the best in the Chobe area. The lodge is constructed in the Moorish style and flaunts high arches, barrel-vaulted ceilings and tiled floors. The individually decorated rooms are elegant yet soothing, and some have views of the Chobe River and Namibian floodplains – the views from the public areas are sublime.

Service is attentive and professional, and there’s a good chance you’ll spot herds of elephants along the riverfront as you walk around the hotel grounds. There's also an on-site spa and gym. The lodge is about 9km west of the Northern Gate.

Ngoma Safari LodgeLODGE$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%73 747 880, 620 0109; www.africaalbidatourism.com/safari-lodges/ngoma-safari-lodge; s/d Jun-Oct US$1154/1950; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-swimgifs)

At the western end of the Chobe Riverfront, close to the Ngoma Bridge border crossing between Botswana and Namibia, this lovely lodge is removed from the clamour close to Kasane. It offers eight stylishly appointed, river-facing suites with thatched roofs on a rise set back from (and high above) the riverbank.

Earth tones dominate the decor in the rooms and the service is everything you’d expect for the price.

Muchenje Campsite & CottagesCAMPGROUND

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%75 007 327; www.muchenjecampsite.com; B334 Kachikau Road; per person camping P120, self-catering cottages P700)

Some 7km from the park entrance, this good campsite has river frontage and is surrounded by an electric fence. Each campsite can sleep up to six and has braai stands, and there's an ablution block with hot showers. It's close to both Kasane and Chobe, but without the noise and bustle of the former. The cottages are spacious and comfortable.

Muchenje Safari LodgeLODGE$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%+27 170 8879, in South Africa 620 0013; www.muchenje.com; s/d Jul-Oct US$990/1390, Apr-Jun US$755/1000, per person Nov-Mar US$395; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-swimgifs)

High on a hill overlooking the Chobe River at the western end of the Chobe Riverfront, Muchenje has 11 spacious rooms decorated in an attractive colonial style. There are vantage points over the river littoral from numerous points around the property, including each room’s private veranda.

CHOBE RIVERFRONT WILDLIFE

Spend even a couple of hours along the riverfront and you’ll likely see elephants, giraffes, hippos, lions and possibly more elusive cheetahs and leopards along the banks. During the dry season (April to October), herds of antelope, giraffes, zebras, buffaloes and wildebeest also congregate along the river. The marshy river floodplain is also inhabited by Chobe’s two trademark antelope, namely the water-loving red lechwe and the increasingly rare puku. The latter has a face like a waterbuck but can be distinguished by its notched, inward-curving horns and its small, stocky build.

The birdlife along the riverfront is extraordinarily varied. Along the river, listen for the screaming fish-eagles overhead as they make precision dives for fish.

8Getting There & Away

From central Kasane, the Northern Gate is about 6km to the southwest. Unlike all other national parks operated by the DWNP, you do not need a campsite reservation to enter, though you will be expected to leave the park prior to closing if you do not have one. All tracks along the riverfront require a 4WD vehicle, and you will not be admitted into the park without one.

You can either exit the park through the Northern Gate by backtracking along the river or via the Ngoma Bridge Gate near the Namibian border. If you exit via Ngoma, you can return to Kasane via the Chobe transit route. (If you’re simply bypassing Chobe en route to/from Namibia, you do not have to pay park fees to travel on this road.) Be advised that elephants frequently cross this road, so keep your speed down and do not drive at night.

CHOBE RIVERFRONT (DE)CONGESTION

Chobe is one of few national parks in Botswana where you may enter as a daytripper without a confirmed lodge or campsite reservation. Before you celebrate, read on.

Chobe Riverfront’s proliferation of lodges and the park’s proximity to Kasane and its numerous hotels and lodges means that safari trails (more specifically the main trail along the riverbank) can become overwhelmed by vehicles. Perhaps in response to complaints from exclusive lodges within the park, the park and local authorities have instituted a controversial system aimed at reducing the number of vehicles during peak times. Under the strategy, tour operators are allowed to visit the park from dawn until 9am and from 2.30pm to sunset. Self-drivers and daytrippers are left with the wholly unappealing hours of 9am to 2.30pm. That, at least, is the official position.

However, on one of our dry-season visits, we were allowed in at 3pm and permitted to stay until sunset. Confused? Enforcing the decongestion policy still seems to depend upon the discretion of the officials at the park gate – you're more likely to be allowed entry (no guarantees, though) in a single vehicle than if there are two or three vehicles in your group.

Our advice is to turn up at the Chobe Riverfront (Sedudu) gate of the park almost immediately after you arrive in Kasane to enable you to plan your visit. And unless you’re in a convoy of vehicles, it’s always worth trying to discuss the situation with the rangers at the gate if at first they refuse you entry.

Nogatsaa/Tchinga Area

The Nogatsaa-Tchinga area supports herds of buffaloes and elephants as well as reedbucks, gemsboks, roans and the rare oribi antelope. Located east of Linyanti and south of Chobe Riverfront, it sees far fewer tourists than the latter (and Savuti), but it also lacks the overwhelming numbers of animals found in those safari hot spots. Nogatsaa-Tchinga lacks a permanent source of water, though the pans (sometimes called ‘dams’) present in the area store water for months after the rains have stopped.

If you're taking the direct route between Maun and Savuti on a self-drive safari, it may be one of the more rewarding sections of the route.

The area is accessible along the main Maun–Kasane track, but a 4WD is essential out here. The clay around this region is popularly known as ‘black cotton’, and it often defeats even the most rugged of 4WD vehicles. If you’re planning on exploring the area in detail, it’s best to first seek local advice, especially during the rainy season.

Savuti

Savuti's flat, wildlife-packed expanses and rocky outcrops, awash with distinctly African colours and vistas, make it one of the most rewarding safari destinations on the continent. With the exception of rhinos, you’ll find all of Africa’s most charismatic megafauna in residence here or passing through – on one afternoon wildlife drive, we encountered 15 lions and two leopards.

The area, found in the southwestern corner of Chobe National Park, contains the remnants of the ‘superlake’ that once stretched across northern Botswana – the modern landscape has a distinctive harsh and empty feel to it. Because of the roughness of the terrain, the difficulty in reaching the area and the beauty you'll find when you get here, Savuti is an obligatory stop for all 4WD enthusiasts en route between Kasane and Maun.

SAVUTI: LION VERSUS ELEPHANT

Reports of lions preying on elephants have for decades emerged from the Botswana wilds, but because most attacks took place at night in national parks where night driving was prohibited, no one could say for sure. That was until the early 1990s when filmmakers Dereck and Beverley Joubert finally captured on film one of wild Africa’s most epic contests. The resulting documentary, Ultimate Enemies, which was filmed in the Savuti region of Chobe National Park, is as confronting as it is extraordinary.

Male lions weigh on average 190kg, while females weigh 126kg. Although there have been isolated cases of large lion prides killing rhinos or hippos, the preferred prey size of lions is, on average, around 350kg. Elephants, on the other hand, weigh between 4 and 6 tonnes. When lions kill elephants, it is the largest predator-to-prey weight ratio known among terrestrial mammals. Taking place in the dry season of August to November (with a peak in October), the hunts observed by the Jouberts were only successful at night, and only when less than five elephants and 27 or more lions were present (the pride’s overall size was 30). Surprisingly, no infant elephants were killed by lions, probably due to high levels of maternal vigilance and protection – most elephants killed were between four and 11 years old.

Reports of lions attacking elephants have tapered off somewhat in recent years as the pride filmed by the Jouberts has divided and groups have gone their separate ways. And lions killing elephants is now more common across the region, especially towards the end of the dry season. But the reputation for strength and ferocity that these exploits have earned the lions of Savuti remains very much in place.

1Sights

Leopard RockLANDMARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

The rocky monoliths that rise up from the Savuti sand provide more than welcome aesthetic relief amid the flat-as-flat plains. The outcrops’ caves, rocky clefts and sometime-dense undergrowth also represent ideal habitat for leopards. The southernmost of these monoliths (the first you come to if you’re driving from Maun or Moremi Game Reserve) is known as Leopard Rock and sightings of the most elusive of Africa’s big cats are reasonably common here. A 1.6km-long sandy track encircles the rock.

Gobabis HillHILL

( GOOGLE MAP )

In the heart of Savuti, Gobabis Hill is home to several sets of 4000-year-old rock art of San origin. The best are the depictions of livestock halfway to the summit on the south side of the rock; park at S 18º35.632’, E 24º04.770’, from where it’s an easy 150m climb up to the paintings.

Be careful, however; the area is a known haunt of leopards, and we spent one blissful morning watching a pride of lions between the paintings and the Savuti Channel just 200m away.

The paintings are signposted as ‘Rock Paintings’ off the main track and again at the parking place. The western edge of Gobabis Hill is guarded by a fine baobab, which is visible from the main track.

Savuti MarshesNATURAL FEATURE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

For decades since the early 1980s, this vast open area in southern Savuti consisted less of marshes than sweeping open plains, save for occasional inundations during the rainy season. But the area’s name again makes sense with the return of water to the Savuti Channel. Once-dry tracks now disappear into standing water that draws predators and prey from all across the region. The marshes lie between the Savuti Channel and the main Savuti–Maun track.

If the waters allow, we recommend the picnic spot at S 18º36.889’ E 24º04.397’ as the perfect riverside place for lunch.

4Sleeping

Savuti CampsiteCAMPGROUND$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.sklcamps.com; S 18°34.014’, E 24°03.905’; camping per adult/child US$50/20)

One of the best campgrounds in Chobe, with five of the seven sites (all with braai pits) overlooking the (usually dry) river – sites one to four could do with a little more shade, while Paradise camp is our pick. The ablutions block has sit-down flush toilets and showers (usually hot).

Be careful of wandering baboons and elephants; the old Savuti Camp Site nearby was destroyed by thirsty elephants!

icon-top-choiceoSavute Elephant CampLODGE$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%686 0302; www.belmondsafaris.com; s/d Jun-Oct US$4058/5680; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

The premier camp in Savuti is made up of 12 lavishly appointed East African–style linen tents on raised wooden platforms, complete with antique-replica furniture that will appeal to colonial safari nostalgics. The main tent houses a dining room, lounge and bar, and is next to a swimming pool that overlooks a pumped water hole.

icon-top-choiceoSavute Under CanvasTENTED CAMP$$$

(icon-phonegif%in South Africa +27 11-809 4300; www.andbeyond.com/savute-under-canvas/; per person Jul-Oct US$725, Apr-Jun & Nov US$590, Feb & Mar US$480)

This cross between a tented camp and luxury mobile safari enables you to experience the freedom of camping (sites are moved every few days) with the exclusivity that comes with having a beautifully appointed tent, butler and excellent meals served in between your game drives. Tents have bathroom facilities, including hot bucket showers. No children under 12.

As with all &Beyond operations, personal service is a hallmark to go with the high levels of comfort and carefully chosen location.

Savute Safari LodgeLODGE$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%686 1559; www.desertdelta.com; s/d Jul-Oct US$1230/1890, Apr-Jun & Nov US$675, per person Dec, Jan & Mar US$535; icon-hoursgifhclosed Feb)

Next to the former site of the legendary Lloyd’s Camp, this upmarket retreat consists of 12 large and contemporary thatched chalets with neutral tones, wooden floors and fairly standard layouts. The main safari lodge has a sitting lounge, elegant dining room, small library and cocktail bar. There's also a breathtaking deck where you can watch the sunset over the bush.

Camp SavutiTENTED CAMP$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.sklcamps.com; s/d Jul-Oct full board US$990/1320, Apr-Jun & Nov US$555, per person Dec-Mar US$465,)

Given a licence to run the public campsites, cheeky SKL has also taken on the big boys with some beautifully appointed canvas tents overlooking the Savuti Channel. Prices are a touch below the longer-established camps, but the quality is pretty much on a par.

THE SAVUTI CHANNEL

Northern Botswana contains a bounty of odd hydrographic phenomena. For instance, the Selinda Spillway passes water back and forth between the Okavango Delta and Linyanti Marshes. Just as odd, when the Zambezi River is particularly high, the Chobe River reverses the direction of its flow, causing it to spill into the area around Lake Liambezi. Historically, there was also a channel between the Khwai River system in the Okavango Delta and the Savuti Marshes.

But the strangest phenomenon of all is perhaps the Savuti Channel, which links the Savuti Marshes with the Linyanti Marshes and – via the Selinda Spillway – the Okavango Delta. Most confounding is the seeming complete lack of rhyme or reason to the flow of the channel. At times it will stop flowing for years at a stretch (eg from 1888 to 1957, 1966 to 1967 and 1982 until 2008). As of 2016 the Savuti Channel was again dry and the Savuti Marshes likewise.

When flowing, the channel changes the entire ecosystem, creating an oasis that provides water for thirsty wildlife herds and acts as a magnet for a profusion of water birds. Between flows, the end of the channel recedes from the marshes back towards the Chobe River, while at other times the Savuti Marshes flood and expand; as a result, many of the trails shown on many maps were impassable at the time of writing. What’s more, the flow of the channel appears to be unrelated to the water level of the Linyanti–Chobe River system itself. In 1925, when the river experienced record flooding levels, the Savuti Channel remained dry.

According to the only feasible explanation thus far put forward, the phenomenon may be attributed to tectonics. The ongoing northward shift of the Zambezi River and the frequent low-intensity earthquakes in the region reveal that the underlying geology is tectonically unstable. The flow of the Savuti Channel must be governed by an imperceptible flexing of the surface crust. The minimum change required to open or close the channel would be at least 9m, and there’s evidence that this has happened at least five times in the past 100 years.

8Getting There & Away

Chartered flights use the airstrip several kilometres north of the lodges in Savuti. Check with your lodge regarding booking a flight.

Tracks in the Savuti area can be hard slogs – deep sand, hidden troughs to jolt the unwary, and deep corrugations. Many routes around Savuti are often unnavigable from January to March. Many travellers visit Savuti en route between Moremi Game Reserve and Linyanti. All of these routes require a 4WD vehicle.

If driving direct to Savuti from Maun, take the sealed road to Shorobe (40km), then the decent gravel road to Mababe, which is close to Mababe Gate. The road from the gate to Savuti (around 52km) is sandy and slow-going in parts.

If driving from Kasane, the sealed road goes as far as Kachikau, from where a rutted, sandy track leads 41km to Ghoha Gate. After the gate, drive 10.3km along the main track then take the road to the right labelled 'Airstrip' – it avoids the worst of the sand and loops back around onto the main track close to Savuti.

Linyanti Marshes

Hard up against the border with Namibia, the Linyanti River spreads into a 900-sq-km flooded plain that attracts stunning concentrations of wildlife during the dry season. On the Namibian side of the river, this well-watered wildlife paradise is protected by the Mudumu and Nkasa Rupara National Parks, which mirror the 7km of frontage along the northwestern edge of Chobe National Park.

Wildlife trails run along the marsh shoreline and sightings of the marshes’ stable populations of elephants, lions, cheetahs and leopards are fairly common, although you’ll need to be patient, especially for big cats. The Linyanti region is widely considered one of the best places in Africa for African wild dogs, but sightings are by no means guaranteed. Given that most of the luxury lodges are outside the national park, night drives are another highlight.

4Sleeping

Linyanti CampsiteCAMPGROUND$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%686 5365; www.sklcamps.com; S 18°16.228’, E 23°56.163’; camping per adult/child US$50/25)

Most of the sites here sit on a shady and gentle rise just up from the water’s edge, with good views of the marshes costing nothing extra. There are the usual braai pits, hot showers, sit-down flush toilets and, in the dry season, lots of elephants and baboons. Expect hippos to make an awful lot of noise during the night.

icon-top-choiceoZarafa CampTENTED CAMP$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%in South Africa +27 87 354 6591; www.greatplainsconservation.com; s/d mid-Jun–Oct US$4133/5510, rates vary rest of year)icon-sustainableS

Make no mistake: this is one of the premier properties anywhere in Africa. As ecofriendly as it's possible to be out here, Zarafa's tented villas are utterly gorgeous – and as we've come to expect from Great Plains, the attention to detail is exemplary.

Zarafa has as its focal point a splendid ebony tree that once provided shelter for the respected wildlife-documentary film-makers Dereck and Beverley Joubert. The wildlife watching out here is like immersing yourself in a National Geographic wildlife film (indeed, this is where many were filmed), and the massive rooms feel like the ultimate safari experience brought to life.

icon-top-choiceoDuma TauTENTED CAMP$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%686 0086; www.wilderness-safaris.com; s/d high season US$2050/3450, rates vary rest of year; icon-acongifaicon-swimgifs)icon-sustainableS

This 10-room camp was rebuilt completely in 2012 with a commitment to sustainability; all of the camp’s power comes from solar energy, and waste disposal is state of the art. The raised tents overlook the hippo-filled Zibadianja Lagoon from a mangosteen grove.

The lagoon can be explored by boat when the water levels are high, or you can kick back in a luxury tent under thatch.

The tents are, as you'd expect, large and luxurious and, like the public areas that extend out over the water, make maximum use of the location – you can lie in bed and look out over the waters of the delta without moving. The look is understated safari chic, with plenty of replica safari nostalgia to go with the soothing earth tones and linens.

When it comes to wildlife, there's a decent chance you'll see the big cats here (Duma Tau means 'Roar of the Lion'). You'll certainly see elephants, and red lechwe and African wild dogs are also possible here.

Hyena PanTENTED CAMP$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.hyenapan.com; s/d all-inclusive high season US$604/930, low season US$448/690)

This quietly elegant and relatively affordable camp, an hour's drive from the Khwai airstrip, is an excellent choice. Appealing if simple tents sit close to a water hole that's popular with elephants. All the region's wildlife is possible on the wildlife drives, but a real highlight is the 'Elephant Song' walking trail that takes you up close to the local elephants.

King’s Pool CampTENTED CAMP$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%686 0086; www.wilderness-safaris.com; s/d Jun-Oct US$2700/4700, rates vary rest of year; icon-acongifaicon-swimgifs)

Occupying a magical setting on a Linyanti River oxbow overlooking a lagoon, this nine-room camp, part of Wilderness Safaris' Premier collection, is one of the most luxurious properties in Linyanti, with private plunge pools in the very large rooms. Accommodation is in private thatched chalets with modern four-poster beds and there's fabulous wildlife in the area.

This place almost prides itself on being noisy – you will almost certainly be woken up by the nearby hippos, elephants, baboons and lions. Night drives are a highlight, as is the in-camp birding, while a sundowner on the two-tiered, colonial-style Queen Sylvia barge is the height of sophistication. There are no bad choices here…

Lebala CampTENTED CAMP$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%686 1449; www.kwando.co.bw; s/d Jul-Oct US$1619/2608, Apr-Jun & Nov US$770/1120, per person Dec-Mar US$560; icon-swimgifs)

The name means ‘Open Plains’, which is what you get in terms of a view, along with dense game concentrations, a commitment to multiple game drives and excellent bushwalks. The grasslands eventually give way to the marshlands of Linyanti, which conceal abundant birdlife. The eight rooms, with open-air bathrooms, are large and arguably the best in the Kwando portfolio.

Wildlife watching here is truly exceptional, with wild dogs and sitatungas the possible highlights among many.

Savuti CampTENTED CAMP$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.wilderness-safaris.com; s/d Jun-Oct all-inclusive US$1820/3000, rates vary rest of year; icon-swimgifs)

Part of Wilderness Safaris' classic portfolio, Savuti has all the hallmarks of the Wilderness camps: friendly staff, luxurious tents (with soaring thatched roofs) and a prime wildlife-viewing location on the Linyanti Concession. Rooms nicely combine wood floors and antique furnishings with artfully chosen Afro-chic decor. Elephants, big cats and even wild dogs and roan or sable antelope are all possibilities.

In wooded country and overlooking the water between Savuti and Linyanti, this wonderfully remote small camp has large and luxurious tents. The perennial water hole it overlooks attracts large concentrations of wildlife during the dry season.

Selinda CampTENTED CAMP$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%in South Africa +27 11-807 1800; www.wilderness-safaris.com; s/d mid-Jun–Oct US$2535/3380, rates vary rest of year; icon-acongifaicon-swimgifs)

This East African vintage-style nine-person camp is the one of the flagship properties for Great Plains Conservation, which took it over from Wilderness Safaris. The tented rooms are luxurious by any stretch of the imagination and the wildlife is outstanding. It inhabits the 1300-sq-km Selinda Reserve, a hunting preserve turned wildlife refuge in the heart of Linyanti.

As such it stands at the heart of this excellent organisation's conservation efforts.

Camp LinyantiTENTED CAMP$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%686 5365; www.sklcamps.com; S 18°16.228’, E 23°56.163’; s/d Jul-Oct full board US$835/1270, Apr-Jun & Nov US$685/1070, per person Dec-Mar US$450)

Just as it has in Savuti, SKL has set up a luxury tented camp within earshot of the cheaper public sites. The camps are supremely comfortable without being overdone, and with prices less than their near neighbours, they’re well worth considering.

Lagoon CampTENTED CAMP$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%686 1449; www.kwando.co.bw; s/d Jul-Oct US$1619/2608, Apr-Jun & Nov US$770/1120, per person Dec-Mar US$560; icon-swimgifs)

This series of luxury tents looks out over floodplains and river tracks (that's Namibia's Mudumu National Park across the water) thick with wild dogs, lions and buffaloes. Fishing trips and evening boat cruises are available. There are fine views from many vantage points, not least some of the free-standing bath-tubs.

The vast rooms are extremely comfortable, although they perhaps lack the polish of others in the area. The wildlife area here is, however, one of the best in the delta, with wild dogs frequently sighted, as well as a full suite of predators and prey.

Selinda Explorers CampTENTED CAMP

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.greatplainsconservation.com; s/d mid-Jun–Oct US$1643/2190, per person rest of year US$720-750)

With just four luxury tents and being one of just two camps in the entire 1300-sq-km private Selinda Reserve, there is a palpable sense of blissful isolation and very personal service out here. This is some of the best wildlife-watching country in Africa, with big cats, big elephants, wild dogs, sable and roan antelope all possible highlights among many.

The tents have that whole bush-experience-in-utter-comfort vibe down pat, and there's a recurring feeling that this is your own private corner of Africa.

8Getting There & Away

From the south, the track from Savuti is a hard slog of deep sand. The track running east towards Kachikau (where it meets the sealed road to Kasane) is only slightly better.

Most guests choose to fly into their camp on a chartered flight from Maun or Kasane. Flights tend to be cheaper from Maun.