Yes, the name Eningu Clayhouse Lodge sounds a lot like the title of a children’s book, but appropriately enough, this place is a bit of a fantasy. It was painstakingly designed and constructed by Volker and Stephanie Hümmer, whose efforts with sun-dried adobe have resulted in an appealing African-Amerindian architectural cross – the large and lovely rooms have hand-painted floors, earth hues and handwoven rugs.

It really is visually arresting, and activities here include wonderful hiking trails (with a mountain hut en route), wildlife viewing, archery, and stargazing through their telescope. To get here, follow the D1458 for 63km southeast of Chief Hosea Kutako International Airport and then turn west on the D1471; travel for 1km to the Eningu gate.

This place lies within an hour’s walk of Arnhem Cave, and is located on the same farm. Day visitors can arrange guided tours here, while overnight visitors are treated to a bucolic retreat lying just beyond the lights of the capital.

If you get stuck for the night, the well-established Mariental Hotel has basic carpeted rooms with modern amenities, if a rather drab colour scheme, as well as a dining room serving Namibian standards.

Off the B1 a few clicks southeast of Kalkrand and around halfway between Mariental and Rehoboth, Red Dunes Lodge has a lovely collection of thatch-and-canvas guestrooms with teak floors, stone tiling, wood fires, private terraces and outdoor showers. They're nicely spaced to ensure privacy and the swaying Kalahari grasslands that envelop this 10,000-acre property add a real sense of bush isolation despite its accessibility.

Wooden chalets on elevated stilts facing the setting sun from atop a sand dune... The rooms here have a range of styles with soothing earth tones, high ceilings and stylish throws. Activities include stargazing, night drives (watch for the elusive aardwolf), feeding of the rescued cheetahs, searching for meerkats and a Bushman walk. It's a lovely place. It's northeast of Mariental; take the C20 east then north on the D1268.

Gorgeous wood-floored rooms here have a more contemporary look than your average safari lodge and we love it all the more for it. There are also three excellent campsites, an equally excellent restaurant and palm-strewn grounds, all adding up to an entirely agreeable Kalahari experience. It's around 30km northeast of Mariental, just north of the C20.

Attractive rooms, many with balconies overlooking the lake, are an excellent place to spend the night. The higher the rate, the better the view; the cheaper rooms (apart from the five-bed dorms) are bush chalets. Camping is also possible. Bookings must be made through the NWR in Windhoek.

The basic Brukkaros Campsite has sites with toilets and a bush shower, but you must supply your own drinking water. Half of the campsites are literally carved out of the volcano and offer some truly stunning views across the valley.

If you’re looking to rehabilitate your travel-worn body and mind, a surprisingly relaxing retreat is the Lake Oanob Resort, located alongside the Oanob Dam, just west of Rehoboth. The resort is centred on a stunningly calm and tranquil blue lake. Amenities include a shaded camping area, a thatched bar and restaurant, and beautiful stone self-catering bungalows on the lake’s shores.

Although down a side road, Bernice B&B is extremely well signed from any direction that you approach town – just follow the signs! Book ahead, as it does get busy. There are family options, digital satellite TV and good-size rooms, which are a little dated but otherwise well kept and nice enough.

About 14km east of town, the Quivertree Forest Rest Camp proudly boasts Namibia’s largest stand of kokerboom (quiver trees). Day rates (per person N$60) include use of picnic facilities and entry to the Giant’s Playground, a bizarre natural rock garden 5km away. Accommodation is simple but adequate.

In the quiet Westdene neighbourhood of town, Pension Gessert offers quaint and homey rooms with modern touches, a beautiful cooling green garden to relax in and a swimming pool.

The historic Seeheim Hotel features an atmospheric old bar as well as period furniture. Rooms are simple, clean affairs with mosquito nets (upstairs rooms are better).

A welcoming stop on the road in these parts is Betta Camp Site, roughly 20km past Duwisib. Apart from petrol and campsites if you want to crash the night, make a beeline for the kiosk where you can stock up on supplies and indulge in the most delicious homemade goodies. Snaffle down freshly baked farm bread, apple pie, pancakes and other sweet treats. There is even firewood and BBQ packs.

This very amenable rest camp (with a sparkling amenities block) occupies one corner of the castle grounds and is well set up with campsites containing bin, braai and bench seating. The adjoining kiosk sells snacks, coffee and cool drinks. Book through the NWR office in Windhoek.

Located 300m from the castle, this pleasant guest farm has rooms with views of the main attraction, and self-catering family units that sleep up to eight people. While you’re there, be sure to check out the historic blacksmith shop up the hill.

In town, you can bed down for the night at the Hotel Maltahöhe, which has won several national awards for its amenable, spic-and-span accommodation. It also has a restaurant and bar offering Continental cuisine.

A surprisingly swish hotel with elegant rooms in addition to a very popular restaurant and bar. The menu is limited, but the beer is cold and it has a well-stocked wine cellar. Those who like eating game meat may feel uncomfortable being watched by all those accusing trophies. There’s also a great courtyard area for soaking up the sun and enjoying a cold drink.

It gets busy with tour groups – book ahead in high season.

Bethanie Guesthouse, one of Namibia's oldest hotels and under newish management, inhabits a personality-steeped building with good facilities including camping and modern, if unexciting rooms. It's a welcoming place.

This 10,000-hectare ranch, 3km west of Aus, is a hiker’s paradise with six different trails you can do, from 4km to 20km in length. Accommodation is provided in the main lodge, which is cast in soothing earth tones and with lovely large rooms. Meals are available at the main lodge. Apart from the wonderful hiking, activities include horse riding and 4WD tours of the ranch’s vast desert concession.

The excellent campsites sit beneath camel thorn shade and make the most of the big-sky views.

One of the better in-town hotels along the B1, the Bahnhof has rooms with wood floors, white walls and splashes of colour and character. Smallish windows make some a little claustrophobic, but they're an excellent if pricey option for those keen not to stray too far from the main highway. There's a reasonable on-site restaurant with an appealing outdoor terrace and international dishes.

In the beautiful Tirasberge, the private Namtib Biosphere Reserve is run by ecologically conscious owners who’ve created a self-sustaining farm in a narrow valley, with distant views of the Namib plains and dune sea. The rooms are tastefully turned out and comfortable. To reach the reserve, take the C13 north of Aus for 55km, then turn west on the D707; after 48km, turn east onto the 12km farm road to the lodge.

There is an incredible wealth of nature on display here, and it’s certainly worth spending a night or two getting acquainted with all the empty space.

These two- to four-person self-catering chalets mix the deliciously remote with proximity to the affiliated Desert Horse Inn facilities 7km away; if you don't feel like cooking, you can eat at the lodge restaurant. Built in stone and glass, and with their backs to the barren mountains, this fine place offers sweeping views and a glorious sense of space and light.

Housed in a historic colonial mansion, this is the only true backpackers spot in town, with rudimentary accommodation. The vibe is congenial and low-key, and the friendly management is helpful in sorting out your onward travels. And of course, the usual backpacker amenities are on offer here, including a communal kitchen, braai pit, TV lounge and laundry facilities. Prices may increase when it’s busy.

This is a beautifully situated but aggravatingly windy locale. Shark Island is connected to the town by a causeway but is no longer an island, thanks to the harbour reclamation project that attached it to the mainland. The centrepiece of the island is a historic lighthouse that caps the central rock, and features two bedrooms, a living room and a kitchen – perfect for self-caterers!

Book accommodation through the NWR office in Windhoek; bookings can also be made at the entrance.

This family-run guesthouse in an early-20th-century German-style house is one of the better places in town. The wood floors, white-linen look and the sea breezes (especially on the upstairs terrace) round out a lovely package.

Haus Sandrose is comprised of uniquely decorated self-catering rooms surrounding a sheltered garden. The bright rooms are good value and exude a cheerful and roomy feel; note some rooms are bigger than others. It’s a great location and very friendly.

This brand-spanking-new, cheerful, whitewashed building houses a promising new guesthouse and overlooks the water just before Shark Island. It’s in a lovely location and is just a few minutes' drive from the town centre. Also here is a coffee shop serving breakfast and lunch.

This is the town’s oldest hotel, dating back to 1907, which has managed to retain a certain faded grandeur while adding a touch of modernity. Darkish downstairs rooms have huge bathrooms. The attached Rumour’s Grill is a great place to drop into for either a cold beer at the end of a long drive or a strong nightcap on the way up to bed.

One of the more unusual sleeping options in town, the Krabbenhoft is a converted carpet factory that now offers a number of self-catering flats upstairs from a furniture shop and Avis car-rental office. Accommodation has loads of character, floor-to-ceiling bookshelves, high ceilings, lots of natural light, good shared kitchen facilities and the novelty factor can’t be beat.

Housed in a converted church complete with vaulted ceilings, this centrally located B&B offers a variety of different rooms to choose from set amid a patch of greenery. Rooms are in varying condition – some are a little worn but comfortable and the upstairs ones come with outside chair and table on the balcony. The attached Barrels restaurant has a lively beer garden and a wonderful German kitchen.

In a town defined by its colonial heritage, the Protea bucks the trend with a modern offering of polished steel and sparkling glass. There are only 22 sun-blessed rooms here, each accented by a sweeping terrace facing out towards the sea. Despite being part of the Marriott's portfolio, prices are reasonable and the atmosphere unpretentious.

Lüderitz’ oldest upmarket hotel occupies a jutting peninsula in the southwest corner of town, complete with its own private beach. Each room is stylishly appointed with modern furnishings and faces out towards the sea. Amenities include a pool, sauna, kids playground, car hire, terraced bar and a collection of gourmet restaurants. This hotel is what you would expect: decent service, clean and good facilities. It’s overpriced but its drawcard is the magnificent water views from the rooms.

An excellent spot to rest for the night is the White House Guest Farm. Dolf and Kinna de Wet’s wonderful and popular B&B (yes, it is a white house) has well-priced, self-catering accommodation. Kitchen facilities are available, though the hosts will also provide set meals and braai packs on request. Head 11km towards Keetmanshoop on the B1 and turn west at the White House signpost; it’s 4km off the road.

This renovated farmhouse, which dates from 1912, is architecturally stunning.

Administered by NWR, this pleasant and well-shaded campground near the park’s northern end is about 10km from the main viewpoints. Facilities are clean and there’s a kiosk and swimming pool, but no restaurant or petrol station. Rooms in bush chalets were under construction when we last passed through.

Administered by NWR, amenities here include washing blocks, braai pits and use of the resort facilities, including the hot springs. The rooms are tidy, if a touch overpriced, and there are also slightly more expensive river-view rooms. There are family chalets available and an on-site restaurant and small grocery store.

With 20 chalets located on the western rim of the canyon, Fish River Lodge is a magical spot to enjoy the landscape. Rooms are gorgeous, modern and come with superlative views. Activities include the five-night canyon hike (85km, April to September), or a day hike for the less ambitious.

Access to the lodge is from the D463, which links the B4 in the north and the C13 to the west.

One of the more budget-orientated properties in the area, this remote mountain camp occupies a high-altitude setting amid dolerite hills. Self-caterers can take advantage of the fully equipped kitchen, braai pits and communal lounges. The whitewashed walls evoke a cross between New Mexico and the south of Spain.

This wonderful (and terribly kitsch) place attempts to recreate a roadhouse out on the wildest stretches of Route 66 – at least as it exists in the collective imagination. Buffets are served on an antique motorcycle, and the stunning window shades and bar stools are made from used air filters from heavy-duty vehicles. Rooms (which are all the same) are brightly coloured with low-slung roofs and modern touches.

The walk-in shower is a luxury and the cheapish furniture is offset by a Mediterranean feel. There's a well-maintained area out the back with 12 campsites, toilets and braai facilities. Its a handy place to stop for lunch during the day too -– try the Amarula cheesecake. It also offers guided excursions to Fish River Canyon viewpoints nearby as well as hiking and 4WD excursions.

This mountain retreat is one of Namibia’s most stunning accommodation options and it comes at a price that is surprisingly reasonable. The whole place, but especially the luxury stone bungalows, is sympathetically integrated into its boulder-strewn backdrop. The outlook is dramatic and the bungalows, with flagstone floors, have great privacy. The restaurant, housed in a 1908 farmhouse, is tastefully decorated with historic farming implements and has rambling gardens.

It’s a very friendly place, the food is first-class and we’ve never met a nicer barman.

Drawing inspiration from the Cape Dutch villages of yesteryear, this wonderfully bucolic spot hugs a rock face on the outskirts of Fish River Canyon. Cottages are spacious and comfortable, and afford great views of the area. The centrepiece is a thatched restaurant serving traditional Afrikaner specialities.

This well-situated camp, 15km down Orange River Rd, sits on the riverbank. It’s the launch point for Amanzi Trails, so you can stock up on supplies, indulge in a hot meal and get a good night’s rest before embarking on your canoe trip.

Approximately 10km west of Noordoewer is this safari-chic river camp and launch point for Felix Unite. Purists can pitch their own tent on the grassy field, while lovers of creature comforts can bed down in a permanent tent or chalet, and stockpile their reserves for the paddling ahead.