8Getting There & Away
Kalkfeld is just off the C33, approximately halfway between Omaruru and Otjiwarongo.
Erindi Private Game Reserve
%064
It may lack the scale of Etosha National Park, but many travellers rank Erindi ( GOOGLE MAP ; %081 145 0000, 064-570800; www.erindi.com) as their most memorable wildlife-watching experience in Namibia. With over 700 sq km of savannah grasslands and rocky mountains, Erindi lacks the zoolike feel of many smaller private reserves in the country and lacks for nothing when it comes to wildlife – you can reliably expect to see elephants and giraffes, with lions, leopards, cheetahs, African wild dogs and black rhinos all reasonable possibilities. Night drives, too, open up a whole new world of nocturnal species. Throw in guided bush walks, visits to a San village and rock-art excursions, and it's not difficult to see why Erindi is fast attracting a growing army of devotees and return visitors.
4Sleeping
oCamp ElephantCAMPGROUND, CHALET$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %083 333 1111; www.erindi.com; camping per site N$712, s/d chalets N$1095/2190)
In the heart of Erindi, Camp Elephant has 15 excellent self-catering chalets that overlook a water hole that's floodlit at night. The 30 campsites have some lovely greenery and plenty of shade, not to mention good facilities.
oOld Traders LodgeLODGE$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %083 330 1111; www.erindi.com; s with half board N$3090-4090, d with half board N$5380-7180; Ws)
Erindi's main lodge has 48 luxury rooms that combine the safari feel (thatched roofs and earth tones) with classic wood-and-four-poster-bed interiors. It's never pretentious, and although it can get a little frenetic when the lodge is full, it's a terrific place to stay on a terrific reserve.
8Getting There & Away
Erindi lies west of Omaruru, northwest of Okahandja and southwest of Otjiwarongo. There are four entrance gates. To reach the main gate, travel 48km north of Okahandja or 124km south of Otjiwarongo along the B1, then turn west onto the D2414, a decent gravel road, for 40km.
Okonjima Nature Reserve
%067
The 200 sq km Okonjima Nature Reserve is the epicentre of one of Namibia's most impressive conservation programs. Home of the AfriCat Foundation, it protects cheetahs and other carnivores rescued from human–wildlife conflict situations across the country, and gives them room to move. Aside from excellent accommodation and fascinating education programs, Okonjima offers the opportunity to track wild leopards, as well as cheetahs, African wild dogs and (coming soon) lions within the reserve. There are also self-guided walks, first-rate guides and the chance to be a part of something that makes a genuine difference.
Day visitors are welcome, but we recommend staying here for a minimum of two nights to take full advantage of the activities on offer.
2Activities
Only those staying overnight at the lodges or campsites can take part in most of the activities, which include cheetah and leopard tracking. There are also a number of self-guided walks, with maps available from the AfriCat Day Visitors Centre, lodges, or camp manager.
Activities are not included in the room rates, and cost N$670/340 per adult/child for leopard or cheetah tracking, or N$450/225 per adult/child for guided Bushman nature trails.
AfriCat FoundationWILDLIFE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %067-687032; www.africat.org; h10am-4pm)
This foundation runs education programmes and activities within Okonjima Nature Reserve. Day visitors can join the tours that leave from the AfriCat Day Centre at 10.30am and 12.30pm from April to August, and 11am and 1pm from September to March.
The tours take you to the AfriCat Care Centre – where you'll learn about the AfriCat story and the foundation's programmes, as well as visit a large enclosure where cheetahs are held awaiting their return to the wild. You'll also receive a light lunch as part of the tours, which cost N$385/285 per adult/child; children under 7 are free.
4Sleeping & Eating
Within the reserve's boundaries, you'll find a range of outstanding lodge accommodation and a handful of excellent campsites. Campers must check in at the AfriCat Day Centre.
oOmboroko CampsiteCAMPGROUND$
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.okonjima.com; Okonjima Nature Reserve; per adult/child N$330/165; s)
These are some of the best campsites in Namibia. There's plenty of shade, firewood is provided, there's a (freezing!) swimming pool, hot showers and flush toilets, and the five sites are beautifully maintained in the shadow of one of the large rocky outcrops that dominate the reserve's core. You're also within the 20 sq km fenced zone and, hence, unlikely to be surprised by wandering predators.
oOkonjima Plains CampLODGE$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %067-687032; www.okonjima.com; s/d standard rooms with half board N$2830/4050, view rooms with half board N$3955/6300; aWs)
With 10 'view' and 14 'standard' rooms, these newly built lodgings open out onto the Okonjima grasslands, with the ample terraces and abundant glass taking full advantage of the wildlife-rich views. The view rooms in particular are supremely comfortable, spacious and stylish, decorated with a pleasing mix of soothing earth tones and bold colours, as well as plenty of stunning photographs of Okonjima's wildlife.
Okonjima Bush Camp & SuitesLODGE$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %067-687032; www.okonjima.com; s/d with half board N$5700/9900, ste N$8800-14,400; Ws)
Removed from the main lodge area and hence quieter and more discreet, the Bush Camp and nearby Bush Suites are beautifully turned out. The camp rooms are nicely spaced to ensure maximum privacy and actually have two small adobe bungalows, one for sleeping, the other with a lovely sitting area. The split-level suites are even more beautiful.
AfriCat Day CentreCAFE$
( GOOGLE MAP ; light meals from N$40; h11.30am-2.30pm)
The day centre serves a few simple meal choices at lunchtimes from a menu that changes regularly. There are fine views from the back terrace.
8Getting There & Away
Unless you visit Okonjima as part of an organised tour, you'll need your own vehicle to visit. The signpost is impossible to miss, 49km south of Otjiwarongo and 130km north of Okahandja along the B1. After taking the turn-off, you pass through a series of gates and the main lodge is 10km off the main road, along a well-graded gravel track.
Otjiwarongo
Pop 28,250 / %067
Handy as a jumping-off point for Etosha, and particularly the Waterberg Plateau, Otjiwarongo is especially pleasant in September and October when the town explodes with the vivid colours of blooming jacaranda and bougainvillea. Beyond that, it's a place to refuel, stock up on supplies and break up the journey.
1Sights
Crocodile FarmFARM
( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Zingel & Hospital Sts; N$50; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-3pm Sat, 9am-3pm Sun)
Otjiwarongo is home to Namibia’s first crocodile ranch, which produces skins for export. You can do a worthwhile tour, and there’s a shop which has mainly wooden carvings with some jewellery and metalwork, though not much in the way of croc-skin products. The restaurant has a full-blown menu for breakfast and lunch – try any number of croc delicacies, such as a croc wrap or kebabs.
Locomotive No 41MONUMENT
( GOOGLE MAP )
At the train station stands Locomotive No 41, which was manufactured in 1912 by the Henschel company of Kassel, Germany, and then brought all the way to Namibia to haul ore between the Tsumeb mines and the port at Swakopmund. It was retired from service in 1960 when the 0.6m narrow gauge was replaced with the wider 1.067m gauge.
4Sleeping & Eating
There's a Spar Supermarket ( GOOGLE MAP ; 9 Hage Geingob St; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat, to 7pm Sun) in the centre of town.
oBush PillowGUESTHOUSE$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %067-303885; bushpillow.co.za; 47 Sonn Rd; s/d incl breakfast N$650/850; Ws)
This great little guesthouse styles itself as ‘executive accommodation’ by targeting the business market, but with comfortable modern rooms and wi-fi connectivity throughout, it also makes an ideal pit stop for travellers. The seven rooms include a couple that are set up for families – the kids will love the pool. There's a lovely restaurant as well.
oHadassa Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %067-307505; www.hadassaguesthouse.com; Lang St; s/d N$640/800; Ws)
Overseen by the welcoming French owners Orlane and Emmanuel, this fine little guesthouse has the intimate feel of a B&B and the quality of a small, personalised boutique hotel. Rooms are immaculate, the meals are beautifully prepared and service is excellent.
Casa Forno Country HotelHOTEL$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %067-304504; www.casaforno.com; Ramblers Rd; s/d from N$820/920; paW)
Large and semiluxurious, Casa Forno is decorated in classic Cape Dutch style and it's far enough away from the main street to ensure a quiet night's sleep. The excellent restaurant serves pasta, steaks and other international staples in an agreeable setting.
C’est Si Bon HotelHOTEL$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %067-301240; www.cestsibonhotel.com; Swembad Rd; s/d from N$720/820; as)
Named after a common French expression that translates to ‘it is good’, this charmer of a hotel takes its moniker to heart, blending Namibian design with European flourishes. After a few laps in the pool, a cappuccino on the sundeck and a glass of wine in the bar, you’ll probably agree that everything is indeed c’est si bon.
Out of Africa Town LodgeLODGE$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %067-302230; www.out-of-afrika.com; Long St; s/d from N$680/780; as)
This attractive whitewashed, colonial-style lodge is a nice place to break up the drive to Etosha. Lofty, sometimes cavernous rooms retain their historical accents, although frequent renovations have kept them in sync with the times.
8Getting There & Away
There are buses at least daily between Otjiwarongo and Windhoek (from N$288, 3½ hours) with Intercape Mainliner (061-227847; www.intercape.co.za). Minibuses travelling between Windhoek and the north stop at the Engen petrol station. All train services between Tsumeb and Windhoek or Walvis Bay (via Swakopmund) also pass through.
Outjo
Pop 8450 / %067
Given the tourist traffic through this small town, it has retained a surprisingly country, low-key feel. Although it has few attractions, it serves as an increasingly appealing place to rest on your way to/from Etosha. If you're coming from the south, Outjo is the last major rest stop before reaching Okaukuejo, the administrative headquarters of and western gateway to Etosha.
1Sights
Outjo MuseumMUSEUM
( GOOGLE MAP ; Herholt Rd; N$10; h8am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri)
Originally called the Kliphuis or stone house, Franke House is one of Outjo’s earliest buildings and now houses the town’s museum. It was constructed in 1899 by order of Major von Estorff as a residence for himself and subsequent German commanders. It was later occupied by Major Franke, who posthumously gave it his name, though the current focus of the museum is political and natural history. It's worth a quick look, nothing more.
Naulila MonumentMONUMENT
( GOOGLE MAP )
This monument commemorates the 19 October 1914 massacre of German soldiers and officials by the Portuguese near Fort Naulila on the Kunene River in Angola. It also commemorates soldiers killed on 18 December 1914, under Major Franke, who was sent to avenge earlier losses.
4Sleeping
Sophienhof LodgeLODGE$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %067-312999; www.sophienhof-lodge.com; off C39; camping/dm N$200/300, r per person N$440-1650; Ws)
This place just off the C39, 12km southwest of Outjo, gets consistently good reviews from travellers. Accommodation is in good, grassy campsites, sturdy bungalows or the appealing farmhouse; there's even a dorm for budget travellers. In addition to guided walking tours, you can also watch the feeding of rescued cheetahs and ostriches.
Etotongwe LodgeLODGE$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %067-313333; www.etotongwelodge.com; camping N$120, s/d N$580/960; W)
This refreshing, professionally run place on the way to Etosha, just outside of town, feels like an unlikely oasis of green. Its neat appearance and trim lawns break up the concrete, stone and thatched roofs spun around an attractive area. Rooms are fairly bare inside, but have some nice African touches and are neat as a pin and very roomy.
Probably the best feature is the small front veranda with chairs and table.
FarmhouseGUESTHOUSE$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %067-313444; www.farmhouse-outjo.com; Hage Geingob Ave; s/d N$390/600)
Better known for its downstairs restaurant, the Farmhouse also has a single and three double rooms on offer, all of a very comfortable standard. Rooms are either nicely sized or cavernous and devoid of furnishings, depending on your perspective.
Etosha Garden HotelHOTEL$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %067-313130; www.etosha-garden-hotel.com; s/d incl breakfast N$450/700; as)
Just a short walk from the town centre, this friendly old place gets mixed reviews and features curio-filled rooms surrounding plush greenery and a swimming pool. It’s looking a bit rundown these days and is pretty disorganised, but it’s worth dropping by to see if they will give you a decent walk-in rate.
5Eating
Topaz Bistro CulinariumINTERNATIONAL$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %067-313244; Sam Nujoma Dr; mains from N$55; h7am-4pm; W)
Set up as a catch-all tourist centre, this unusual place has a restaurant, tourist information centre, curio shop and a model Himba village. It hasn't quite worked out what it wants to be and lacks a little soul as a result, but it's still worth stopping by, if only to try the mix of Namibian and international dishes and the free wi-fi while you make up your own mind.
oOutjo BakeryBAKERY, CAFE$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %067-313055, 081 141 3839; Hage Geingob Ave; breakfast N$48-120, mains N$65-160; h7am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, to 1.30pm Sat; W)
Opened in 2016, this stylish place wouldn't look out of place in Windhoek or urban South Africa. All of the international staples are here – pasta, steaks, burgers and open sandwiches – but it's the clean lines, tempting array of bakery items and all-round sophistication of everything from the food to the service that make this place a winner.
FarmhouseINTERNATIONAL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.farmhouse-outjo.com; Hage Geingob Ave; mains N$45-105; h7am-9pm; W)
This all-rounder is the centre of food and drink in town, serving meals all day every day. Its pleasant beer garden is a great spot to reconnect with social media. Burgers, pies, grills (including game such as kudu, eland and oryx), wraps, pizza, salads and ever-changing daily specials are on offer, as are tempting cakes. It also serves the best coffee in town.
It might not pull off the farmhouse feel, but it does have rustic overtones inside.
8Getting There & Away
Combis (minibuses) run between the OK Supermarket in Outjo to towns and cities around North-Central Namibia, though there is no public transport leading up to Okaukuejo and the Andersson Gate of Etosha National Park. If you’re driving, however, the paved route continues north as far as the park gate.
Self-drivers can top up at Puma ( GOOGLE MAP ; h7am-10pm).
Waterberg Plateau Park
%067
The wild Waterberg ( GOOGLE MAP ; per person per day N$80, vehicle N$10) is highly recommended – there is nothing quite like it in Namibia. It takes in a 50km-long, 16km-wide sandstone plateau, looming 150m above the desert plains. It doesn’t have the traditional big wildlife attractions (such as lions or elephants). What it does have are some rare and threatened species, including sable and roan antelope, and little-known populations of white and black rhinos. Most animals here have been introduced, and after breeding successfully some are moved to other parks. That said, all of these species can prove difficult to see – most are skittish and the bush is very thick.
WATERBERG PLATEAU PARK AT A GLANCE
Why Go?
Fabulous hiking, excellent if hard-won wildlife-watching, terrific accommodation and superlative views.
Gateway Towns
Otjiwarongo
When to Go
May to October is the best time to visit, although year-round is possible. Avoid hiking in the heat of the day from December to February in particular.
Budget Safaris
Waterberg is an excellent budget destination – hiking permits are cheap and there's good budget accommodation.
Practicalities
Waterberg Plateau Park is accessible by private vehicle, though visitors must explore the plateau either on foot or as part of an official wildlife drive conducted by NWR. With the exception of walking trails around the Waterberg Resort, both unguided and guided hiking routes in Waterberg must be booked well in advance through Namibia Wildlife Resorts in Windhoek.
History
While Waterberg is known among tourists as a unique safari park, the plateau has played a prominent role in Namibian history.
In 1873 a Rhenish mission station was established at Waterberg, but it was destroyed in 1880 during the Herero-Nama wars. In 1904 it was the site of the decisive Battle of the Waterberg between German colonial forces and the Herero resistance. Due to superior weaponry and communications, the Germans prevailed and the remaining Herero were forced to flee east into the Kalahari. The final death blow was dealt by German soldiers, who were sent ahead to refuse the retreating Herero access to the region’s few waterholes.
2Activities
Waterberg Unguided Hiking TrailHIKING
(per person N$100; h9am Wed)
A four-day, 42km unguided hike around a figure-eight track begins at 9am every Wednesday from April to November. It costs N$100 per person, and groups are limited to between three and 10 people. Book through Namibia Wildlife Resorts in Windhoek. Hikers stay in basic shelters and don’t need to carry a tent but must otherwise be self-sufficient. Shelters have drinking water, but you’ll need to carry enough to last you between times – plan on drinking at least 3L to 4L per day.
The first day begins at the visitor centre (which is the Waterberg Camp, and follows the escarpment for 13km to Otjozongombe shelter. The second day’s walk to Otjomapenda shelter is just a three-hour, 7km walk. The third day consists of an 8km route that loops back to Otjomapenda for the third night. The fourth and final day is a six-hour, 14km return to the visitor centre.
Waterberg Wilderness TrailHIKING
(per person N$220; h2pm Thu)
From April to November the four-day, guided Waterberg Wilderness Trail operates every Thursday. The walks, which are led by armed guides, need a minimum of two people. They begin at 2pm on Thursday from the visitor centre and end early on Sunday afternoon. They cost N$220 per person and must be prebooked through NWR in Windhoek. There’s no set route, and the itinerary is left to the whims of the guide. Accommodation is in simple huts, but participants must carry their own food and sleeping bags.
Wildlife DriveWILDLIFE WATCHING
(incl breakfast pack N$600; h6am or 3pm)
If you’re not doing a hike, wildlife drives are the only way to get onto the plateau to spot the animals (self-drives are not allowed). The four-hour drive takes you to hides cleverly hidden around waterholes. Antelope, including eland, sable, roan and red hartebeest are the ones you’re most likely to spot. Leopards, cheetahs and brown hyenas are around but rarely seen.
Resort Walking TrailsHIKING
Around the pink-sandstone-enclosed rest camp are nine short walking tracks, including one up to the plateau rim at Mountain View. They’re great for a pleasant day of easy walking, but watch for snakes, which sun themselves on rocks and even on the tracks themselves. No reservations are required for these trails.
4Sleeping
oWaterberg Wilderness LodgeLODGE, CAMPGROUND$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %067-687018; www.waterberg-wilderness.com; off D2512; camping N$170, tented room N$690, r with half board N$1150-1480; aWs)
Waterberg Wilderness occupies a vast private concession within the park and is a wonderful upmarket choice. The Rust family has painstakingly transformed the property (formerly a cattle farm) by repopulating game animals and allowing nature to return to its pregrazed state. The main lodge rests in a sun-drenched, jacaranda-strewn meadow at the end of a valley, where you’ll find red-sandstone chalets adorned with rich hardwood furniture.
But there's so much more here. Arrive before 3pm so as to join the rhino wildlife drives. It has other accommodation around the valley: Plateau Camp (a handful of more secluded chalets perched high on a rock terrace deeper in the concession), a tented camp (Meru-style safari tents facing down the valley with fine views), or you can pitch your own tent in the high-lying Andersson Camp.
To reach Waterberg Wilderness Lodge, take the D2512 gravel road around 100km from Otjiwarongo and follow the signs.
Waterberg CampCAMPGROUND, LODGE$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %067-305001; www.nwr.com.na; camping N$160, s/d bush chalets N$810/1320)
Together with its sibling properties in Etosha, the Waterberg Camp is part of NWR’s Classic Collection. At Waterberg, campers can pitch a tent in any number of scattered sites around braai (barbecue) pits and picnic tables. Campsites benefit from space, views of the plateau and the plains beyond, and well-kept amenities. The lodge rooms and bush chalets are unexciting but nicely kept and well-priced for what you get.
Campers can pick up firewood, alcohol, basic groceries and other supplies from the shop, while others can sink their teeth into a fine oryx steak at the restaurant (a rather grand stone building up the hill from the campsite – it’s a bit of a slog on foot – complete with old pics and chandeliers) and wash it down with a glass of South African Pinotage from the bar. A word of warning, though: Waterberg is overrun with crafty baboons, so keep your tents zipped and your doors closed, and watch where you leave your food.
Wabi LodgeLODGE$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %067-306500; www.wabi.ch; s/d from N$1185/2170; Ws)
Wabi is a private luxury set-up almost 30km from Waterberg Plateau on the D2512. The Swiss owners have imparted their heritage on the design and furnishings of the eight bungalows and in the well-prepared food. The lodge runs its own wildlife drives, including night drives where you’ve a chance to see honey badgers, caracals, genets, brown hyenas, and even cheetahs and leopards.
8Getting There & Away
Waterberg Plateau Park is only accessible by private car – motorcycles are not permitted anywhere within the park boundaries. From Otjiwarongo it’s about 90km to the park gate via the B1, C22 and the gravel D512. While this route is passable to 2WD vehicles, go slow in the final stretches as the road can be in bad shape after the rainy season. An alternative route is the D2512, which runs between Waterberg and Grootfontein – this route is OK during winter but can be terrible during summer, the rainy season, when it requires a high-clearance 4WD.
Grootfontein
Pop 23,790 / %067
With a pronounced colonial feel, Grootfontein (Afrikaans for Big Spring) has an air of uprightness and respectability, with local limestone constructions and honour guards of jacaranda trees that bloom in the autumn. The springboard for excursions out to Khaudum National Park and the San villages in Otjozondjupa or a way station on your way to/from Etosha's east, Grootfontein can be the last town of any real significance that you see before heading out into the deep, deep bush.
THE RED LINE
Between Grootfontein and Rundu, and Tsumeb and Ondangwa, the B8 and B1 cross the ‘Red Line’, the Animal Disease Control Checkpoint veterinary control fence separating the commercial cattle ranches of the south from the communal subsistence lands to the north. Since the 1960s, this fence has barred the north–south movement of animals as a precaution against foot-and-mouth disease and rinderpest. Animals bred north of this line have not been allowed to be sold to the south or exported to overseas markets.
As a result, the Red Line has effectively marked the boundary between the developed and developing world. The landscape south of the line is characterised by a dry, scrubby bushveld (open grassland) of vast ranches, which are home only to cattle and a few scattered ranchers. North of the Animal Disease Control Checkpoint, travellers enter a landscape of dense bush, baobab trees, mopane scrub and small kraals (huts), where the majority of individuals struggle to maintain subsistence lifestyles.
This impasse may soon be resolved, however. In 2012, and again in 2014, the Namibian government publicly stepped up its efforts to have much of the existing ‘protected’ area internationally recognised as being free of livestock disease. If successful, this could see the Red Line shifted up as far as the western boundary of Bwabwata National Park (the Caprivi Strip is still regarded as a high-risk zone for foot-and-mouth disease), or possibly even as far as the Angolan border. But until this complicated issue is resolved in such a way that the line can be shifted without threatening Namibia's lucrative export market, even for a short time, expect the line to stay in place.
History
It was the town’s eponymous spring that managed to attract Grootfontein’s earliest travellers, and in 1885 the Dorsland (Afrikaans for 'Thirst Land') trekkers set up the short-lived Republic of Upingtonia. By 1887 the settlement was gone, but six years later Grootfontein became the headquarters for the German South-West Africa Company, thanks to the area’s abundant mineral wealth. In 1896 the German Schutztruppe constructed a fort using local labour, and Grootfontein became a heavily fortified garrison town. The fort and nearby colonial cemetery are still local landmarks.
Grootfontein
5Eating
1Sights
German Fort & MuseumFORT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; adult/child N$25/15; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri)
Historical settler history is depicted here through some fascinating black-and-white photos. The Himba, Kavango and Mbanderu collections of artefacts and photographs are also interesting, as is the history of research into the area’s rock art. It’s a huge museum; put a couple of hours aside at least.
The 1896 fort in which the museum is housed was enlarged several times in the early 20th century and in 1922 a large limestone extension was added.
Later the building served as a boarding school, but in 1968 it fell into disuse.
Hoba MeteoriteNATURAL FEATURE
( GOOGLE MAP ; adult/child N$20/10; hdawn-dusk)
Near the Hoba Farm, the world’s largest meteorite was discovered in 1920 by hunter Jacobus Brits. This cuboid bit of space debris is composed of 82% iron, 16% nickel and 0.8% cobalt, along with traces of other metals. No one knows when it fell to earth (it’s thought to have been around 80,000 years ago), but since it weighs around 54,000kg, it must have made one hell of a thump.
In 1955, after souvenir hunters began hacking off bits to take home, the site was declared a national monument. There’s now a visitors information board, a short nature trail and a shady picnic area. Unless you have a specialised interest, however, it’s worth a quick stop only, and its size is not all that impressive.
From Grootfontein, follow the C42 towards Tsumeb. After 500m, turn west on the D2859 and continue 22km; then follow the clearly marked signs until you reach the complex.
CemeteryCEMETERY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
In the town cemetery, off Okavango Rd, you can wander the graves of several Schutztruppe soldiers who died in combat with local forces around the turn of the century.
4Sleeping & Eating
Stone House LodgeGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %067-242842; www.stonehouse.iway.na; 10 Toenessen St; s/d N$450/650; aWs)
Probably the best of the in-town options, Stone House has six attractive rooms overseen by Boet and Magda. This guesthouse has a welcoming, family feel to it.
Courtyard GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %067-240027; 2 Gauss St; s/d N$430/660; aiWs)
The top spot in Grootfontein is modest by any standard, but its truly enormous rooms (not all – ask to see a few) leave you plenty of space to unpack your bag and take stock of your gear. If you’re about to embark on a bush outing, spend the afternoon poolside and bask in comfort while you can. The restaurant (mains N$60 to N$100, open 7am to 10pm) serves fish, salads, pastas and grills dabbling in a bit of everything.
Roy’s Rest CampCAMPGROUND, BUNGALOW$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %067-240302; www.roysrestcamp.com; camping N$110, s/d N$865/1470; s)
Accommodation in this recommended place looks like a fairy-tale illustration – the handmade wooden furnishings are all fabulously original, while the thatched bungalows sit tranquilly beneath towering trees. Possible activities include a 2.5km hiking trail, drives around the large farm on which the camp is set, and a day trip to a traditional San village. Roy’s is located 55km from Grootfontein on the road towards Rundu.
oPurple Fig BistroINTERNATIONAL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 124 2802; www.facebook.com/purplefigbistro; 19 Hage Geingob St; mains N$40-120; h7am-9pm)
In the heart of town, the Purple Fig gets good reviews from travellers. Eat under the eponymous fig tree or in the cafe. Light meals take the form of salads, wraps and toasted sandwiches, but there are also burgers, steaks and pancakes. Servings are large, staff are friendly and it's easily the most pleasant place to eat in Grootfontein.
8Getting There & Away
Minibuses leave for Rundu and Oshakati ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) from one stop along Okavango Rd, with others to Tsumeb and Windhoek ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) from another; all depart when full. The Intercape Mainliner bus that departs Windhoek for Victoria Falls also passes through Grootfontein (from N$772, six hours) on Monday, Wednesday and Friday; going the other way they pass through on Monday, Thursday and Saturday.
If you’re heading out to Tsumkwe, you will need a private vehicle. The gravel road into town is accessible by 2WD if you take it slow, but you will need a high-clearance vehicle to reach the various villages in Otjozondjupa, and a 4WD might be necessary in the rainy season. If you’re heading to Khaudum, a sturdy 4WD is a requirement, as is travelling as part of a well-equipped convoy.
Tsumeb
Pop 19,280 / %067
Tsumeb is one Namibian town worth a poke around, especially if you are trying to get a feel for the country’s urban side. The streets are very pleasant to wander, made more so by the plentiful shady trees. It’s reasonably compact, and there’s usually a smile or two drifting your way on the busy streets. There are a few attractions to guide your visit, but it's more about getting a window on the world of an appealing northern Namibian town.
Tsumeb
4Sleeping
7Shopping
8Information
1Sights
St Barbara’s ChurchCHURCH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Main St & Sam Nujoma Dr)
Tsumeb’s distinctive Roman Catholic church was consecrated in 1914 and dedicated to St Barbara, the patron saint of mineworkers. It contains some fine colonial murals and an odd tower, which makes it look less like a church than a municipal building in some small German town.
Tsumeb Mining MuseumMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %067-220447; cnr Main St & 8th Rd; adult/child N$40/10; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat)
If you normally skip museums, make an exception here. Tsumeb’s story is told in this museum, which is housed in a 1915 colonial building that once served as both a school and a hospital for German troops. In addition to outstanding mineral displays (you’ve never seen anything like psittacinite!), the museum also houses mining machinery, stuffed birds, Himba and Herero artefacts, and weapons recovered from Lake Otjikoto.
There is also a large collection of militaria, which was dumped here by German troops prior to their surrender to the South Africans in 1915.
Helvi Mpingana Kondombolo Cultural VillageMUSEUM
( GOOGLE MAP ; %067-220787; N$60; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat & Sun)
This complex, located 3km outside the town on the road to Grootfontein, showcases examples of housing styles, cultural demonstrations and artefacts from all major Namibian traditions. It's a little rundown and staff don't really illuminate the place with their enthusiasm but it's a worthwhile detour.
MIGHTY MINERALS, WORLDLY WONDERS
The prosperity of Tsumeb is based on the presence of 184 known minerals, including 10 that are unique to this area. Its deposits of copper ore and a phenomenal range of other metals and minerals (lead, silver, germanium, cadmium and many others), brought to the surface in a volcanic pipe – as well as Africa’s most productive lead mine – give it the distinction of being a metallurgical and mineralogical wonder of the world. Tsumeb specimens have found their way into museum collections around the globe, but you’ll also see a respectable assembly of the region’s mineralogical largesse and historical data in the town museum.
4Sleeping & Eating
Spar ( GOOGLE MAP ; %067-222840; Hage Geingob Dr; h8am-6pm Mon-Sat) is Tsumeb's best supermarket.
Mousebird Backpackers & SafarisHOSTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %067-221777; cnr 533 Pendukeni Iivula-Ithana & 4th Sts; camping N$120, dm/tw N$160/460; i)
Tsumeb’s long-standing backpacker spot continues to stay true to its roots, offering economical accommodation without sacrificing personality or character – there’s a really good feel to this place. It’s a small house-style set-up with decent communal areas, including a kitchen. The best twin rooms share a bathroom inside the house, although the twin outside does have its own bathroom. The four-bed dorm is also very good.
Olive Tree CourtAPARTMENT$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 122 5846; www.facebook.com/olivetreetsb/; apt from N$650)
The modern rooms and spacious living areas and kitchen make for an excellent bolthole for those passing through Tsumeb. Relatively new and well-run, Olive Tree Court amplifies Tsumeb's claims to being the best place to overnight on your way between eastern Etosha and Caprivi.
Kupferquelle ResortRESORT$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %067-220139; www.kupferquelle.com; Kupfer St; camping N$115, s/d N$1110/1530; s)
This modern, resort-style place has lovely, contemporary rooms with high ceilings, quiet terraces and a real sense of space, style and light. Some have kitchens, and all have modern art on the walls. There's an on-site swimming pool and ample grounds. An excellent choice.
Makalani HotelHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %067-221051; www.makalanihotel.com; cnr of Ndilimani Cultural Troupe St/3rd St; s/d/f from N$590/870/1200; aWs)
Situated in the town centre, the upmarket Makalani Hotel is a rather garish-looking place that markets itself as both a small hotel and almost a mini-resort complete with casino. But it can’t have it both ways and it sits uncomfortably between the two. What it does have is excellent rooms – if you prefer slightly more comfy, hotel-like options, then this place is for you.
Travel North Namibia GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %067-220728; www.travelnorthguesthouse.com/index.htm; Sam Nujoma Dr; s/d N$450/580; aiW)
This budget guesthouse is a wonderful spot if you’re counting your Nam dollars. It’s a fantastically friendly place delivering decent, good-value accommodation. Rooms are a bit old-fashioned but they're enhanced by splashes of colour that update things considerably. The smallish beds still have enough life left to ensure a good night’s snooze.
LAKE OTJIKOTO
In May 1851, explorers Charles John Andersson and Francis Galton stumbled across the unusual Lake Otjikoto ( GOOGLE MAP ; N$25; h8am-6pm summer, to 5pm winter). The name of the lake is Herero for 'deep hole', and its waters fill a limestone sinkhole measuring 100m by 150m, reaching depths of 55m. Interestingly, Lake Otjikoto and nearby Lake Guinas are the only natural lakes in Namibia, and they’re also the only known habitats of the unusual mouth-brooding cichlid fish.
These fish are psychedelic in appearance – ranging from dark green to bright red, yellow and blue – and are believed by biologists to eschew camouflage due to the absence of predators in this isolated environment. It’s thought that these fish evolved from tilapia (bream) washed into the lake by ancient floods.
In 1915 the retreating German army dumped weaponry and ammunition into the lake to prevent it from falling into South African hands. It’s rumoured that they jettisoned five cannons, 10 cannon bases, three Gatling guns and between 300 and 400 wagonloads of ammunition. Some of this stuff was salvaged in 1916 at great cost and effort by the South African army, the Tsumeb Corporation and the National Museum of Namibia. In 1970, divers discovered a Krupp ammunition wagon 41m below the surface; it’s on display at the Owela Museum in Windhoek. In 1977 and 1983, two more ammunition carriers were salvaged as well as a large cannon, and are now on display at the Tsumeb Mining Museum.
Although the site is undeveloped, there is a ticket booth, an adjacent car park and several small kiosks selling cold drinks and small snacks, as well as quite a bit of shade. While treasure seekers have been known to don scuba gear and search the lake under cover of night, diving (and swimming for that matter) is presently forbidden.
Lake Otjikoto lies 25km north of Tsumeb along the B1, and there are signs marking the turn-off. Note that the entry to the lake is just past the sign for it (about 100m) coming from Etosha.
7Shopping
Tsumeb Arts & Crafts CentreARTS & CRAFTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %067-220257; 18 Main St; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat)
This craft centre markets Caprivian woodwork, San arts, Owambo basketry (also some great basketry from the San), European-Namibian leatherwork, karakul weavings, and other traditional northern Namibian arts and crafts. There’s a very helpful, jolly lady overseeing what is a small but interesting selection.
8Information
Travel North Namibia Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %067-220728; 1551 Sam Nujoma Dr; W)
Inside the guesthouse of the same name. Provides nationwide information, arranges accommodation, transport, car hire and Etosha bookings, and has internet access. No maps available.
8Getting There & Away
Bus
Intercape Mainliner buses make the trip between Windhoek and Tsumeb (from N$340, 5½ hours, twice weekly). Book your tickets in advance online, as this service continues on to Victoria Falls and fills up quickly.
Combis also run up and down the B1 with fairly regular frequency, and a ride between Windhoek and Tsumeb shouldn’t cost more than N$280. If you’re continuing on to Etosha National Park, be advised that there is no public transport serving this route.
Car
Tsumeb is an easy day’s drive from Windhoek along paved roads, and serves as the jumping-off point for Namutoni and the Von Lindequist Gate of Etosha National Park. The paved route continues north as far as the park gate, though keep your speed under control as wildlife is frequently seen along the sides of the highway.
Petrol Station
Etosha National Park
%067
Etosha National Park ( GOOGLE MAP ; per person per day N$80, per vehicle N$10; hsunrise-sunset), covering more than 20,000 sq km, is one of the world’s great wildlife-viewing venues. Unlike other parks in Africa, where you can spend days looking for animals, Etosha’s charm lies in its ability to bring the animals to you. Just park your car next to one of the many water holes, then wait and watch while a host of animals – lions, elephants, springboks, gemsboks etc – come not two by two but by the hundreds.
Etosha's essence is the vast Etosha Pan, an immense, flat, saline desert that, for a few days each year, is converted by rain into a shallow lagoon teeming with flamingos and pelicans. In contrast, late in the dry season, everything, from the elephants to the once-golden grasslands, seems cast, spectrelike, in Etosha’s white chalky dust. And what wildlife there is! Even if you’ve had a taste of African wildlife watching previously, you are likely to be mesmerised by it here.
History
The first Europeans in Etosha were traders and explorers Charles John Andersson and Francis Galton, who arrived by wagon at Namutoni in 1851. They were later followed in 1876 by an American trader, G McKeirnan, who observed: ‘All the menageries in the world turned loose would not compare to the sight I saw that day’.
However, Etosha didn’t attract the interest of tourists or conservationists until after the turn of the 20th century, when the governor of German South West Africa, Dr von Lindequist, became concerned about diminishing animal numbers and founded a 99,526-sq-km reserve, which included Etosha Pan.
At the time, the land was still unfenced and animals could follow their normal migration routes. In subsequent years, however, the park boundaries were altered a few times, and by 1970 Etosha had been reduced to its present size.
2Activities
Etosha’s most widespread vegetation type is mopane woodland, which fringes the pan and constitutes about 80% of the vegetation. The park also has umbrella-thorn acacias and other trees that are favoured by browsing animals, and from December to March this sparse bush country has a pleasant green hue.
Depending on the season, you may observe elephants, giraffes, Burchell’s zebras, springboks, red hartebeests, blue wildebeest, gemsboks, elands, kudus, roans, ostriches, jackals, hyenas, lions and even cheetahs and leopards. Among the endangered animal species are the black-faced impala and the black rhinoceros.
Etosha is Namibia's most important stronghold for lions, with more than half of the country's wild lions – 450 to 500 according to the last estimate by peak conservation NGO Panthera (www.panthera.org).
The park’s wildlife density varies with the local ecology. As its Afrikaans name would suggest, Oliphantsbad (near Okaukuejo) is attractive to elephants, but for rhinos you couldn’t do better than the floodlit water hole at Okaukuejo. We've also seen them by night at the water hole at Olifantsrus and Halali. In general, the further east you go in the park, the more wildebeest, kudus and impalas join the springboks and gemsboks. The area around Namutoni, which averages 443mm of rain annually (compared with 412mm at Okaukuejo), is the best place to see the black-faced impala and the Damara dik-dik, Africa’s smallest antelope. Etosha is also home to numerous smaller species, including both yellow and slender mongoose, honey badgers and leguaans (water-monitor lizards).
In the dry winter season, wildlife clusters around water holes, while in the hot, wet summer months, animals disperse and spend the days sheltering in the bush. In the afternoon, even in the dry season, look carefully for animals resting beneath the trees, especially prides of lions lazing about. Summer temperatures can reach 44°C, which isn’t fun when you’re confined to a vehicle, but this is the calving season, and you may catch a glimpse of tiny zebra foals and fragile newborn springboks.
Birdlife is also profuse. Yellow-billed hornbills are common, and on the ground you should look for the huge kori bustard, which weighs 15kg and seldom flies – it's the world's heaviest flying bird. You may also observe ostriches, korhaans, marabous, white-backed vultures and many smaller species.
The best time for wildlife drives is at first light and late in the evening, though visitors aren’t permitted outside the camps after dark. While self-drivers should definitely wake up at dawn, when animals are most active, guided night drives (N$600 per person) can be booked through any of the main camps and are your best chance to see lions hunting, as well as the various nocturnal species. Each of the camps also has a visitor register, which describes any recent sightings in the vicinity.
4Sleeping
The main camps inside the park are open year-round and have restaurants, bars, shops, swimming pools, picnic sites, petrol stations, kiosks and floodlit watering holes that attract game throughout the night. Although fees are normally prepaid through NWR in Windhoek, it is sometimes possible to reserve accommodation at any of the gates. However, be advised that the park can get very busy on weekends, especially during the dry season – if you can manage it, prebooking is strongly recommended.
In the Park
Olifantsrus Rest CampCAMPGROUND$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %061-2857200; www.nwr.com.na; camping N$280)
The newest of Etosha's rest camps, out in the recently opened-to-the-public western reaches of the park, fenced Olifantsrus occupies an old elephant-culling site with some of the gruesome paraphernalia still on show. There's a small kiosk, decent sites and a marvellous elevated hide overlooking a water hole.
At the waterhole in the morning, expect wildlife and flocks of Namaqua sand grouse, while we've seen black rhinos drinking here by night.
Halali Rest CampLODGE, CAMPGROUND$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %067-229400, 061-2857200; www.nwr.com.na; campsites N$250, plus per person N$150, s/d from N$1150/2040, s/d chalets from N$1530/2800; as)
Etosha’s middle camp, Halali, nestles between several incongruous dolomite outcrops. The best feature at Halali is its floodlit water hole, which is a 10-minute walk from the rest camp and is sheltered by a glen of trees with huge boulders strewn about. There is a very well serviced campsite here, in addition to a fine collection of semiluxurious chalets.
The short Tsumasa hiking track leads up Tsumasa Kopje, the hill nearest the rest camp, from where you can snap wonderful panoramic shots of the park. While it’s not as dramatic in scope as Okaukuejo, the waterhole here is a wonderfully intimate setting to savour a glass of wine in peace, all the while scanning the bush for rhinos and lions, which frequently stop by to drink in the late-evening hours.
Day/night drives cost an additional N$500/600 per person and the latter in particular should be booked in advance.
Namutoni Rest CampLODGE, CAMPGROUND$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %061-2857200, 067-229300; www.nwr.com.na; campsites N$200, plus per person N$110, s/d from N$850/1500, s/d chalets from N$1000/1800; as)
Etosha’s easternmost camp is defined by its landmark whitewashed German fort. Namutoni offers an immaculate campsite (the only campsite in the park with grass) in addition to a few luxury chalets on the edge of the bush – the use of whitewashed walls, dark woods and Afro-chic decor make these some of NWR's more attractive in-park rooms.
Beside the fort is a lovely freshwater limestone spring and the floodlit King Nehale waterhole, which is filled with reed beds and some extremely vociferous frogs. The viewing benches are nice for lunch or watching the pleasant riverbank scene, but the spot attracts surprisingly few thirsty animals. Day/night drives cost an additional N$500/600 per person. Make sure to book well ahead for night drives.
Wildlife is scarcer than at other camps.
oOnkoshi CampLODGE$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %067-687362, 061-2857200; www.nwr.com.na; per person with half board incl transfers from Namutoni N$2750; as)
Upon arrival at Onkoshi (from Namutoni), you'll be chauffeured to a secluded peninsula on the pan's rim and given the keys to one of 15 thatch-and-canvas chalets resting on elevated wooden decks and occupying exclusive locations well beyond the standard tourist route. The opulent interiors blend rich hardwoods, delicate bamboo, elaborate metal flourishes, finely crafted furniture, hand-painted artwork and fine porcelain fixtures.
While the temptation certainly exists to spend your days lounging about such regal settings, guests are treated to personalised wildlife drives (from N$500 per person) conducted by Etosha’s finest guides, and dinners are multi-course affairs illuminated by candlelight.
Okaukuejo Rest CampLODGE, CAMPGROUND$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %067-229800, 061-2857200; www.nwr.com.na; campsites N$250, plus per person N$150, s/d N$1400/2540, s/d chalets from N$1470/2680; pas)
Pronounced ‘o-ka-kui-yo’, this is the site of the Etosha Research Station, and it also functions as the official park headquarters and main visitor centre. The Okaukuejo water hole is probably Etosha’s best rhino-viewing venue, particularly between 8pm and 10pm. Okaukuejo’s campsite can get very crowded, but the shared facilities (washing stations, braai pits and bathrooms with hot water) are excellent.
The self-contained accommodation includes older but refurbished rooms alongside stand-alone chalets. The luxury 'waterhole chalet' is a stunning two-storey affair complete with a furnished centre-stage balcony boasting views of animals lining up to drink – the only drawback is the large number of people walking to and from the waterhole just metres from your door until late at night.
Day/night drives cost an additional N$500/600 per person. Book night drives in advance.
Dolomite CampLODGE$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %061-2857200, 065-685119; www.nwr.com.na; s/d with half board from N$2040/3580; as)
Recently opened in a previously restricted area in western Etosha, Dolomite Camp is beautifully carved into its rocky surrounds. Accommodation is in thatched chalets (actually luxury tents), including a couple with their own plunge pool. The views of surrounding plains are wonderful and there’s even a water hole at the camp, so spotting wildlife doesn’t mean moving far from your bed.
When you do get out and about, the wildlife viewing is superb as the area has been free from human activity for half a century. Guided three-hour day/night wildlife drives cost an extra N$500/650.
Outside the Park
oOngava LodgeLODGE$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %061-225178; www.wilderness-safaris.com; s/d with half board N$4771/7632; ais)
One of the more exclusive luxury lodges in the Etosha area, Ongava Lodge is not far south of Andersson Gate. Ongava is actually divided into two properties: the main Ongava Lodge is a collection of safari-chic chalets surrounding a small water hole, while the Ongava Tented Camp has eight East African–style canvas tents situated a bit deeper in the bush.
It's part of Ongava Game Reserve, which protects several prides of lions, a few black and white rhinos and your standard assortment of herd animals. There are also two other accommodation options in the reserve.
Onguma Etosha Aoba LodgeLODGE$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %067-229100; www.etosha-aoba-lodge.com; s/d with half board from N$2020/3340; ais)
Part of the 70 sq km private Onguma Game Reserve, 10km east of the Von Lindequist Gate, this tranquil lodge is located in tamboti forest next to a dry riverbed. The property comprises 10 cottages that blend effortlessly into their riverine environment. The atmosphere is peaceful and relaxing, and the main lodge is conducive to unwinding with other guests after a long day on safari.
Other affiliated lodges inhabit the reserve, as well as a number of excellent campsites (per person from N$220). Some, such as Tamboti Luxury Campsite, have private facilities, a restaurant and a swimming pool. For more information, check out www.onguma.com.
Taleni Etosha VillageTENTED CAMP$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %067-333413, in South Africa 27-21-930 4564; www.taleni-africa.com; camping N$150, s/d with full board high season N$1951/2928; aW)
This little hideaway, just a couple of kilometres outside Etosha, has self-catering safari tents (half- and full-board options available) with outdoor seating area, braai (barbecue), wooden floors, power points and other little luxuries. The tents are nestled into bushland among mopane trees, and the friendly staff can also organise food if you're self-catering. Etosha Village is 2km before the Andersson Gate.
There are also some good campsites here, although there's little shade.
Mushara LodgeLODGE$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %061-241880; www.mushara-lodge.com; s/d from N$1850/3700; Ws)
Part of the elegant and varied Mushara Collection, which includes three other fine properties, this lodge is impeccably attired in wood, thatch and wicker in the large and extremely comfortable rooms.
Epacha Game Lodge & SpaLODGE$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %061-375300; www.epacha.com; s/d with full board N$3500/5800)
Superb rooms are a hallmark of this beautiful lodge on the private 21 sq km Epacha Game Reserve. Night drives, great views from its elevated hillside position and a pervasive sense of quiet sophistication are all well and good, but where else in Etosha can you practise your clay-pigeon shooting? There's also a tented lodge and exclusive private villa on the reserve.
Emanya LodgeLODGE$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %061-222954; www.emanya.com; s/d N$1730/3068; Ws)
Boutique elegance and an air of exclusivity dominate this unusually modern lodge. Soothing earth tones and clean lines give the rooms their considerable appeal, while some unusual features, such as the well-stocked wine cellar and foot spa, are welcome deviations from the Etosha norm.
Etosha Safari CampCAMPGROUND, LODGE$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %061-230066; www.gondwana-collection.com; camping N$175, s/d chalet N$1211/2264; aWs)
Excellent grassed campsites spill over a large area here, so there’s a good chance you’ll get a pitch even if you haven’t booked. This whole place is set up like a small village, complete with shebeen bar; be warned there is plenty of kitsch, including a shop in a railway carriage. Safari drives into Etosha are available.
It’s 9km from the park on the C38, just off the road and well signed. Etosha Safari Lodge next door is also owned by the Gondwana group.
ToshariLODGE$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %067-333440; www.etoshagateway-toshari.com; camping N$125, s/d N$900/1320; Ws)
This convenient alternative to staying in the park is 25km from Etosha, right on the C38. It has cubicle-type chalets that are rather ugly, but forgiven for their comfort and bushy setting. The campsites (only three) are excellent, and all have that unusual feature in Namibia – grass. Each also has its own bathroom, braai (barbecue), stone bench and shade.
When camping, you can use the lodge facilities, including free tea and coffee, a well-stocked bar and relaxing communal area complete with pet mongoose.
Mokuti LodgeLODGE$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %061-2075360; www.mokutietoshalodge.com; per person incl breakfast N$1065; aiWs)
This sprawling lodge, located just 2km from Von Lindequist Gate, has rooms, chalets and luxurious suites, as well as several swimming pools, spa and tennis courts, though the low-profile buildings create an illusion of intimacy. The accommodation mixes contemporary fittings with African style, creating a fine blend. Chalets have comfy sofas and welcome platters.
The lodge seeks to create an informal, relaxed atmosphere (there’s a boma with fire pit and nightly storytelling), which makes this a good choice if you’re travelling with the little ones. Don’t miss the attached reptile park and its resident snake collection, which features locals captured, somewhat ominously, around the lodge property.
Hobatere LodgeLODGE$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %067-330118, 061-228104; www.hobatere-lodge.com; s/d half board N$1944/3240; Ws)
Close to Etosha's western boundary, 65km northwest of Kamanjab, Hobatere inhabits an 88 sq km private concession where you could see all three big cats as well as elephants and all the usual plains wildlife. The lodge works closely with the local community, both day and night game drives are available and the renovated thatch-roof chalets are tidy and well turned out.
ETOSHA NATIONAL PARK AT A GLANCE
Why Go?
Let's talk numbers: Etosha is home to 114 mammal species as well as 340 bird species, 16 reptile and amphibian species, one fish species and countless insects. Or landscapes: the desolate nature of the pan, the low-cut landscapes and (of course) the water holes mean that wildlife viewing is some of the easiest and most productive on the continent. It’s also one of the best places to spot the highly endangered black rhino in Southern Africa.
Gateway Towns
Most people call in at Outjo, if approaching from the south – it’s about 100km to Etosha from here on a smooth sealed road. Outjo is a fine place to stock up on supplies at the supermarket, use the internet and indulge in some good food. If you’re heading straight to the eastern side of the park (if you're coming from the Caprivi Strip or Rundu, for example), you’ll go via Tsumeb, another handy launching point for the park; it’s about 110km from the Von Lindequist Gate.
Wildlife
The opportunity to see black rhinos is a big draw here; they are usually very difficult to spot, but as they come to some of the waterholes around the camps by night, it couldn’t be easier! There's also lions, cheetahs, elephants, black-backed jackals, giraffes, gemsboks, ostriches and all manner of antelope species.
Author Tip
AIf you’re self-catering, bring your own supplies into the park, as the food selection in the park's shops is abysmal.
AAt the camps, try hanging around the floodlit waterholes late, after most folk have gone to bed. We did just that at Halali and Okaukuejo and had two of the best wildlife encounters – watching black rhinos – we have had in Africa.
Budget Safaris
Getting together a group is one way to save costs on vehicle rental. Otherwise, either join a budget safari (Swakpmund is one place to ask around), or camp at the park's campsites and join the game drives organised by the park authorities.
Practicalities
AYou'll find maps of Etosha National Park across the country and at the shops at most of the park gates. NWR's reliable English-German Map of Etosha (from N$40) is the best and also the most widely available. It has the added bonus of park information and quite extensive mammal- and bird-identification sheets.
AEtosha's four main entry gates are Von Lindequist (Namutoni), west of Tsumeb; King Nehale, southeast of Ondangwa; Andersson (Okaukuejo), north of Outjo; and Galton, northwest of Kamanjab.
8Getting There & Away
There’s no public transport into and around the park, which means that you must visit either in a private vehicle or as part of an organised tour.
The vast majority of roads in Etosha are passable to 2WD vehicles. The park speed limit is set at 60km/h, both to protect wildlife and keep down the dust.
The park road between Namutoni and Okaukuejo skirts Etosha Pan, providing great views of its vast spaces. Driving isn’t permitted on the pan, but a network of gravel roads threads through the surrounding savannah and mopane woodland and even extends out to a viewing site, the Etosha Lookout, in the middle of the salt desert.
Northern Namibia
The country’s most densely populated region, and undeniably its cultural heartland, northern Namibia is a place for some serious African adventure. It is where endless skies meet distant horizons in an expanse that will make you truly wonder if this could be your greatest road trip of all time. There is space out here to think, and you may just find yourself belting down a dirt road hunched over the steering wheel, pondering in detail whatever’s on your mind…for many hours. It's the place for serious problem solving, all induced by that unforgettable landscape.
Northern Namibia takes form and identity from the Caprivi Strip, where, alongside traditional villages, a collection of national parks are being repopulated with wildlife after many decades of war and conflict. At the time of independence, these parks had been virtually depleted by poachers, though years of progressive wildlife management have firmly placed the region back on the safari circuit.
The North
The regions of Omusati, Oshana, Ohangwena and Otjikoto comprise the homeland of the Owambo people, Namibia’s largest population group. Although there’s little in terms of tourist attractions in this region, Owambo country is home to a healthy and prosperous rural society that buzzes with activity. It’s also a good place to stock up on the region’s high-quality basketry and sugar-cane work, which is often sold at roadside stalls. Designs are simple and graceful, usually incorporating a brown geometric pattern woven into the pale-yellow reed.
Ondangwa
Pop 22,822 / %065
The second-largest Owambo town is known as a minor transport hub, with combis fanning out from here to other cities and towns in the north. Its large number of warehouses provide stock to the 6000 tiny cuca shops (small bush shops named after the brand of Angolan beer they once sold) that serve the area’s rural residents. As this description of the town implies, Ondangwa is more necessary as a transit town on your way elsewhere than desirable as a destination in itself.
1Sights
Lake OpononoLAKE
The main attraction in the area is Lake Oponono, a large wetland fed by the Culevai oshanas (underground river channels). After a heavy rainy season, the lakeshores attract a variety of birdlife, including saddle-billed storks, crowned cranes, flamingos and pelicans. The edge of the lake is 27km south of Ondangwa.
Nakambale MuseumMUSEUM
(N$15; h8am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat, noon-5pm Sun)
Nakambale, which was built in the late 1870s by Finnish missionary Martti Rauttanen, is believed to be the oldest building in northern Namibia. It now houses a small museum on Owambo history and culture. Nakambale is part of Olukonda village, which is 20km south of Ondangwa on the D3629.
4Sleeping
Nakambale CampsiteCAMPGROUND$
(%065-245668; campsites N$50, huts per person N$100)
Here’s your opportunity to sleep in a basic hut that historically would have been used by an Owambo chief or one of his wives – high on novelty, if a little short on comfort. Nakambale lies on the outskirts of Olukonda village, 20km south of Ondangwa on the D3629.
oProtea Hotel OndangwaHOTEL$$
(%065-241900; www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/ondon-protea-hotel-ondangwa; s/d from N$1038/1215; aWs)
What a Marriott hotel is doing out here in Ondangwa is anyone's guess, but whatever the reason, this plush business hotel features bright rooms decorated with tasteful artwork as well as modern furnishings. The attached Chatters restaurant serves decent European-inspired cuisine, and there’s also a small espresso shop and takeaway in the lobby.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Air Namibia flies to and from Windhoek’s Eros Airport daily. Note that the airstrip in Oshakati is for private charters only, which means that Ondangwa serves as the main access point in the north for air travellers.
Bus
Combis run up and down the B1 with fairly regular frequency, and a ride between Windhoek and Ondangwa shouldn’t cost more than N$200. From Ondangwa, a complex network of combi routes serves population centres throughout the north, with fares typically costing less than N$40 a ride.
Car
The B1 is sealed all the way from Windhoek to Ondangwa and out to Oshakati.
The Oshikango border crossing to Santa Clara in Angola is 60km north of Ondangwa; to travel further north, you’ll need an Angolan visa that allows overland travel.
Oshakati
Pop 36,541 / %065
The Owambo capital is an uninspiring commercial centre that is little more than a strip of characterless development along the highway. But it’s worth spending an hour or so at the large covered market, which proffers everything from clothing and baskets to mopane worms and glasses of freshly brewed tambo (beer).
4Sleeping
Oshakati Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$
(%065-224659; www.oshakatiguesthouse.com; Sam Nujoma Rd; r N$400-700; a)
Simple but nicely turned out en-suite rooms make this appealing guesthouse an excellent base in the area. There's also a rather noisy restaurant.
Oshandira LodgeLODGE$
(%065-220443; oshandira@iway.na; s/d N$550/800; s)
If you get stuck here for the night, Oshandira Lodge, next to the airstrip, offers simple but spacious rooms that surround a landscaped pool and a thatched open-air restaurant serving local staples. The rooms are fine for the night, but that's about it.
Oshakati Country LodgeLODGE$$
(%065-222380; Robert Mugabe Rd; s/d from N$880/1320; ais)
The Oshakati Country Lodge is a favourite of visiting government dignitaries and businesspeople. It’s your best bet if you’re a slave to modern comforts.
8Information
If you’re looking to apply for an Angolan visa, the Angola Consulate (%065-221799; Dr Agostinho Neto Rd) is currently the best place to submit an application.
8Getting There & Away
From the bus terminal at the market, combis leave frequently for destinations in the north.
Uutapi (Ombalantu) & Around
%065
The area around Uutapi (also known as Ombalantu), which lies on the C46 between Oshakati and Ruacana, is home to a revered national heritage site, and warrants a quick visit if you’ve got your own wheels and are passing through the area.
1Sights
FortFORT
The most famous attraction in Uutapi is the former South African Defence Force (SADF) base, which is dominated by an enormous baobab tree. This tree, known locally as omukwa, was once used to shelter cattle from invaders, and later used as a turret from which to ambush invading tribes. It didn’t work with the South African forces, however, who invaded and used the tree for everything from a chapel to a coffee shop.
To reach the fort, turn left at the police station 350m south of the petrol station and look for an obscure grassy track winding between desultory buildings towards the conspicuous baobab.
Ongulumbashe
The town of Ongulumbashe is regarded, not without reason, as the birthplace of modern Namibia. On 26 August 1966 the first shots of the war for Namibian independence were fired from this patch of scrubland. The site is also where the People’s Liberation Army of Namibia enjoyed its first victory over the South African troops, who had been charged with rooting out and quelling potential guerrilla activities. At the site, you can still see some reconstructed bunkers and the ‘needle’ monument marking the battle. An etching on the reverse side honours the Pistolet-Pulemyot Shpagina (PPSh), the Russian-made automatic rifle that played a major role in the conflict.
Be advised that this area is considered politically sensitive – you will need permission to visit the site from the Swapo office (065 251 038) in Uutapi.
Ongandjera
If you’re feeling especially patriotic (in a Namibian sense), you can visit the town of Ongandjera, which is the birthplace of former president Sam Nujoma. The rose-coloured kraal (hut) that was his boyhood home is now a national shrine, and is distinguished from its neighbours by a prominent Swapo flag hung in a tree. It’s fine to look from a distance, but the kraal remains a private home and isn’t open to the public.
Ruacana
Pop 2985 / %065
The tiny Kunene River town of Ruacana (from the Herero words orua hakahana – 'the rapids') is the jumping-off point for visiting the Ruacana Falls. Here the Kunene River splits into several channels before plunging 85m over a dramatic escarpment and through a 2km-long gorge of its own making. Ruacana was built as a company town to serve the 320-megawatt underground Ruacana hydroelectric project, which now supplies over half of Namibia’s power requirements.
1Sights
Ruacana FallsWATERFALL
At one time, Ruacana Falls was a guaranteed wonder, though all that changed thanks to Angola’s Calueque Dam, 20km upstream, and NamPower’s Ruacana power plant. On the rare occasion when there’s a surfeit of water, Ruacana returns to its former glory. In wetter years, it’s no exaggeration to say it rivals Victoria Falls – if you hear that it’s flowing, you certainly won’t regret a trip to see it (and it may be the closest you ever get to Angola).
At all other times, the little water that makes it past the first barrage is collected by an intake weir, 1km above the falls, which ushers it into the hydroelectric plant to turn the turbines.
To reach the falls, turn north 15km west of Ruacana and follow the signs towards the border crossing. To visit the gorge, visitors must temporarily exit Namibia by signing the immigration register. From the Namibian border crossing, bear left (to the right lies the decrepit Angolan border crossing) to the end of the road. There you can look around the ruins of the old power station, which was destroyed by Namibian liberation forces. The buildings are pockmarked with scars from mortar rounds and gunfire, providing a stark contrast to the otherwise peaceful scene.
4Sleeping
Hippo Pools Camp SiteCAMPGROUND$
(%065-270120; camping N$60)
Also known as Otjipahuriro, this community-run campsite sits alongside the river and has a good measure of shade and privacy. There are also braai (barbecue) pits, hot showers and environmentally friendly pit toilets. Local community members can organise trips to Ruacana Falls or nearby Himba villages for a small fee.
Ruacana Eha LodgeLODGE$$
(%065-271500; www.ruacanaehalodge.com.na; Springbom Ave; camping N$90, huts per person N$250, s/d N$775/1100; ais)
This upmarket lodge appeals to travellers of all budgets by offering manicured campsites and rustic A-frame huts alongside its polished rooms. An attractive oasis in the middle of Ruacana, the Eha Lodge is highlighted by its lush gardens and refreshing plunge pool. It can also arrange excursions to local Himba villages and Ruacana Falls.
8Getting There & Away
Ruacana is near the junction of roads between Opuwo, Owambo country and the rough 4WD route along the Kunene River to Swartbooi’s Drift. Note that mileage signs along the C46 confuse Ruacana town and the power plant, which are 15km apart. Both are signposted ‘Ruacana’.
For westbound travellers, the 24-hour petrol station is the last before the Atlantic. It’s also the terminal for afternoon minibuses to and from Oshakati and Ondangwa, costing around N$40.
Kavango Region
The heavily wooded and gently rolling Kavango region is dominated by the Okavango River and its broad flood plains. Most people visit here in conjunction with time spent in the Caprivi or Zambezi region, and Khaudum National Park. Along with the re-emergence of the Caprivi national parks as wildlife destinations, this is increasingly one of Namibia's most rewarding wildlife regions.
The rich soil and fishing grounds up here support large communities of Mbukushu, Sambiyu and Caprivi peoples, who are renowned for their high-quality woodcarvings – animal figures, masks, wooden beer mugs, walking sticks and boxes are carved in the light dolfhout (wild teak) hardwood and make excellent souvenirs.
Rundu
Pop 63,430 / %066
Rundu, a sultry tropical outpost on the bluffs above the Okavango River, is a major centre of activity for Namibia’s growing Angolan community. Although the town has little of specific interest for tourists, the area is home to a number of wonderful lodges where you can laze along the riverside, and spot crocs and hippos doing pretty much the same. As such, it's a fine place to break up the journey between the Caprivi Strip and Grootfontein or Etosha.
4Sleeping
Lodges in Rundu and the surrounding region offer a variety of excursions, including sunset cruises, canoeing and fishing.
oN’Kwazi LodgeLODGE$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %081 242 4897; www.nkwazilodge.com; camping per adult/child N$100/50, s/d N$600/1000)
On the banks of the Okavango, about 20km from Rundu’s town centre, this is a tranquil and good-value riverside retreat where relaxation is a by-product of the owners' laid-back approach. The entire property blends naturally into the surrounding riverine forest, while the rooms are beautifully laid out, with personal touches; there’s a great campsite, although it’s sometimes overrun by safari trucks. The lodge represents incredibly good value, with no surcharge for singles and a justifiably famous buffet dinner for N$260 at night.
The lodge’s owners, Valerie and Weynand Peyper, are active in promoting responsible travel and work closely with the local community. They also have many other ongoing projects, including supporting orphans in the area. Guests can visit local villages (N$50 for a village walk).
Sarasungu River LodgeLODGE$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %066-255161; camping N$170, r from N$996; aWs)
Sarasunga River Lodge is situated in a secluded riverine clearing 4km from the town centre. It has attractive thatched chalets that surround a landscaped pool, and a decent-sized grassed camping area with basic amenities and beautiful sunsets. There is also a bar-restaurant on-site. The river excursions don't always happen and they aim more for the local conference market than tourists, but it's still a good place.
Tambuti LodgeLODGE$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %066-255711; www.tambuti.com.na; camping N$100, s/d incl breakfast N$700/900; Ws)
An old place that has been around for a while, Tambuti leaks faded grandeur from its stone walls and flagstone floors. Less than a kilometre from town, it feels like a forgotten resort, which gives it an allure all of its own. Rooms are large, and come with a big free-standing bathtub, mosquito nets and small verandas. The lodge also arranges boat trips on the Okavango River.
Hakusembe LodgeLODGE$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %061-427200, 066-257010; www.gondwana-collection.com; camping N$140, chalets per person with half board from N$1450; as)
Now part of the well-regarded Gondwana Collection chain, this secluded hideaway sits amid lush riverside gardens, and comprises luxury chalets (one of which is floating) decked out in safari prints, wood floors and locally crafted furniture. Activities centre on the river with birdwatching, croc spotting and rather lovely sundowner cruises. It lies 17km down the Nkurenkuru Rd, then 2km north to the riverbank.
Taranga Safari LodgeLODGE$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %066-257010; www.taranganamibia.com; off B10; camping N$250, chalet N$1400-1750; aWs)
With just six tented chalets (two deluxe, four luxury), Taranga is a relatively new and intimate addition to the Kavango accommodation scene. Most rooms have free-standing bathtubs, four-poster beds, wooden floors and plenty of space. It's around 35km west of Runu, past Kapako and just off the B10 on the riverbank.
7Shopping
Covered MarketMARKET
( GOOGLE MAP )
Take a stroll around this large market, which is one of Namibia's most sophisticated informal sales outlets. From July to September, don't miss the fresh papayas sold straight from the trees.
Ncumcara Community Forestry Craft CentreARTS & CRAFTS
( GOOGLE MAP ; B8; hMon-Sat, after church Sun)
Very reasonably priced woodcarvings from a sustainable source are on offer at Ncumcara Community Forestry Craft Centre, a neighbourhood craft shop. The carvings are high quality with proceeds going back to the local community. It’s 35km south of Rundu; if the shop is unattended, just wait for someone to show up and open the gate.
8Getting There & Away
Bus
Several weekly Intercape Mainliner buses make the seven-hour trip between Windhoek and Rundu (fares from N$780). Book your tickets in advance online, as this service continues on to Victoria Falls and fills up quickly.
Combis connect Windhoek and Rundu with fairly regular frequency, and a ride shouldn’t cost more than N$600. From Rundu, routes fan out to various towns and cities in the north, with fares costing less than N$60 a ride. Both buses and combis depart and drop off at the Engen petrol station ( GOOGLE MAP ).
Car & Motorcycle
Drivers will need to be patient on the road (B8) to Rundu from Grootfontein. It’s in good condition but passes by many schools where the speed limit drops suddenly – fertile ground for speed cameras.
Petrol Station ( GOOGLE MAP )
BORDER CROSSING: RUNDU–ANGOLA
The border crossing here is almost one-way traffic, with plenty of Angolans coming into Namibia to purchase goods from the shops, seek medical help and visit relatives; however, we heard reports of Namibians getting a lot of hassle when they try to enter Angola. As for tourists, they are seen as easy pickings for the Angolan authorities, and you may be asked for a bribe or even arrested. Basic Portuguese-language skills would be a huge bonus, as English is not widely spoken. Getting an Angolan visa (US$100) in Windhoek is very difficult, and you need time and patience (one traveller we heard about waited for months with no success). It may just depend on who you deal with at the Angolan embassy and, of course, your nationality. For one thing, you need a letter of invitation from somebody in Angola as part of your visa application, as well as a copy of their ID. At the time of writing, Oshakati in Namibia was the best place to try and lodge an Angolan visa application.
There are a few travel agents running basic organised trips into Angola, which consist of you and your guide, your vehicle and all your own camping equipment; Namib-i in Swakopmund is a good place to make enquiries. The bonus here is that they will organise your visa, including the letter of invitation.
Some lodges, such as N’Kwazi Lodge in Rundu, run boat trips along the Okavango River and will dock on the Angolan side to give you a chance to get some Angolan soil on the soles of your shoes.
Khaudum National Park
Exploring the largely undeveloped 3840 sq km Khaudum National Park ( GOOGLE MAP ; adult/child/vehicle N$80/free/10; hsunrise-sunset) is an intense wilderness challenge. Meandering sand tracks lure you through pristine bush and across omiramba (fossilised river valleys), which run parallel to the east–west-oriented Kalahari dunes. As there is virtually no signage, and navigation is largely based on GPS coordinates and topographic maps, visitors are few, which is precisely why Khaudum is worth exploring – Khaudum is home to one of Namibia's most important populations of lions and African wild dogs, although both can be difficult to see.
In addition to African wild dogs and lions, the park protects large populations of elephants, zebras, giraffes, wildebeest, kudus, oryxes and tsessebes, and there’s a good chance you’ll be able to spot large herds of roan antelope here. If you’re an avid birder, Khaudum supports 320 different species, including summer migratory birds such as storks, crakes, bitterns, orioles, eagles and falcons.
KHAUDUM NATIONAL PARK AT A GLANCE
Why Go?
One of Southern Africa's most underrated experiences; lions and African wild dogs; wild country that sees few visitors.
Gateway Towns
Rundu and Tsumkwe
When to Go
Wildlife viewing is best from June to October, when herds congregate around the water holes and along the omiramba. November to April is the richest time to visit for birdwatchers, though you will have to be prepared for a difficult slog through muddy tracks.
Budget Safaris
Given the need for a high-clearance 4WD and total self-sufficiency when it comes to food and equipment, budget travel is near impossible here. Getting a group of other travellers together could help bring costs down.
Practicalities
Take a satellite phone with you. The park authorities usually require a minimum of two vehicles for exploring the park. Pick up the Kavango-Zambezi National Parks map, which is available at some lodges or online via www.thinkafricadesign.com. There's little detail but the GPS coordinates for the major track intersections could save your life. The nearest fuel is at Rundu, Divundu and (sometimes) Tsumkwe.
4Sleeping
Namibia Wildlife Resorts (NWR) used to administer two official campsites in the park – one in the north, the other in the south – but after one too many episodes of elephants gone wild, it decided to close up shop. You can still camp here but the two sites have been neglected for a long time – if you are planning to stay at either one, keep your expectations low.
Khaudum CampCAMPGROUND
( GOOGLE MAP ; GPS: S 18°30.234’, E 20°45.180’)F
Khaudum Camp is somewhat akin to the Kalahari in miniature, but this is true wilderness camping – shade can be meagre and facilities are nonexistent. The sunsets here are the stuff of legend.
Sikereti CampCAMPGROUND
( GOOGLE MAP ; GPS: S 19°06.267’, E 20°42.300’)F
‘Cigarette’ camp, in the south of the park, inhabits a shady grove of terminalia trees, though full appreciation of this place requires sensitivity to its subtle charms, namely isolation and silence. This is true wilderness camping with no facilities whatsoever.
8Getting There & Away
From the north, take the sandy track from Katere on the B8 (signposted ‘Khaudum’), 120km east of Rundu. After 45km you’ll reach the Cwibadom Omuramba, where you should turn east into the park.
From the south, you can reach Sikereti Camp via Tsumkwe. From Tsumkwe, it’s 20km to Groote Döbe and another 15km from there to the Dorslandboom turning. It’s then 25km north to Sikereti Camp.
The Caprivi Strip
Namibia’s spindly northeastern appendage, the Caprivi Strip (now officially known as Namibia's Zambezi region, although the name is taking time to catch on...) is typified by expanses of mopane and terminalia broadleaf forest, and punctuated by shonas or fossilised parallel dunes that are the remnants of a drier climate. For most travellers, the Caprivi serves as the easiest access route connecting the main body of Namibia with Victoria Falls and Botswana’s Chobe National Park.
But Caprivi is also one of Southern Africa's wildlife destinations to watch. After decades of poaching, the region's wildlife is returning and visitors with time and patience can get off the beaten path here, exploring such emerging wildlife gems as Nkasa Rupara and Bwabwata National Parks.
THE SHAPE OF THINGS PAST
The Caprivi Strip’s notably odd shape is a story in itself. When Germany laid claim to British-administered Zanzibar in 1890, Britain naturally objected, and soon after the Berlin Conference was called to settle the dispute. In the end, Britain kept Zanzibar, but Germany was offered a vast strip of land from the British-administered Bechuanaland protectorate (now Botswana). Named the Caprivi Strip after German chancellor General Count Georg Leo von Caprivi di Caprara di Montecuccoli, this vital tract of land provided Germany with access to the Zambezi River.
For the Germans, the motivation for this swap was to ultimately create a colonial empire that spanned from the south Atlantic Coast to Tanganyika (now Tanzania) and the Indian Ocean. Unfortunately for them, the British colonisation of Rhodesia (now Zimbabwe) stopped the Germans well upstream of Victoria Falls, which proved a considerable barrier to navigation on the Zambezi.
Interestingly enough, the absorption of the Caprivi Strip into German South West Africa didn’t make world news, and it was nearly 20 years before some of its population discovered that they were under German control. In 1908 the German government finally dispatched one Hauptmann Streitwolf to oversee local administration, a move that prompted the Lozi tribe to round up all the cattle – including those belonging to rival tribes – and drive them out of the area. The cattle were eventually returned to their rightful owners, but most of the Lozi people chose to remain in Zambia and Angola rather than submit to German rule.
On 4 August 1914 Britain declared war on Germany and, just over a month later, the German administrative seat at Schuckmannsburg was attacked by the British from their base at Sesheke and then seized by the police. An apocryphal tale recounts that German governor Von Frankenberg was entertaining the English resident administrator of Northern Rhodesia (now Zambia) when a servant presented a message from British authorities in Livingstone. After reading it, the British official declared his host a prisoner of war, and thus, Schuckmannsburg fell into British hands. Whether the story is true or not, the seizure of Schuckmannsburg was the first Allied occupation of enemy territory in WWI.
Bwabwata National Park
%066
Only recently recognised as a national park, Bwabwata ( GOOGLE MAP ; per person per day N$10, per vehicle N$10; hsunrise-sunset) was established to rehabilitate local wildlife populations. Prior to the 2002 Angolan ceasefire, this area saw almost no visitors, and wildlife populations had been virtually wiped out by rampant poaching instigated by ongoing conflict. But the guns have been silent now for well over a decade and the wildlife is making a slow but spectacular comeback. If you come here expecting Etosha, you’ll be disappointed. But you might very well see lions, elephants, African wild dogs, perhaps even sable antelope and some fabulous birdlife – and you might just have them all to yourself.
1Sights
Mahango Game ReserveWILDLIFE RESERVE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; per person/vehicle N$40/10; hsunrise-sunset)
This small but diverse 25 sq km reserve occupies a broad flood plain north of the Botswana border and west of the Okavango River. It attracts large concentrations of thirsty elephants and herd animals, particularly in the dry season. It’s particularly nice to stop beside the river in the afternoon and watch the elephants swimming and drinking among hippos and crocodiles.
With a 2WD vehicle, you can either zip through on the Mahango transit route or follow the Scenic Loop Drive past Kwetche picnic site, east of the main road. With a 4WD you can also explore the 20km Circular Drive Loop, which follows the omiramba (fossil river valleys) and offers the best wildlife viewing.
Popa FallsWATERFALL
( GOOGLE MAP ; per person/vehicle N$80/10; hsunrise-sunset)
Near Bagani, the Okavango River plunges down a broad series of cascades known as Popa Falls. The falls are nothing to get steamed up about, especially if Victoria Falls lies in your sights. In fact, the falls are actually little more than large rapids, though periods of low water do expose a drop of 4m. Aside from the ‘falls’, there are good opportunities here for hiking and birdwatching. Swimming is definitely not safe as there are hungry crocs about.
BWABWATA NATIONAL PARK AT A GLANCE
Why Go?
Growing wildlife populations, still very small visitor numbers and the chance to see one of Southern Africa's emerging wildlife destinations before the word really gets out.
Gateway Towns
Divundu, Kongola, Katima Mulilo
When to Go
Our favourite time to visit is from May to August – September and October are also good, although the build-up to the rains brings oppressive heat. The rains usually fall from November to March – getting around can be difficult, but this is also the best time for birdwatching.
Budget Safaris
Budget travel is not really possible here, but if you've already rented a vehicle, you could well camp outside the park and make day-trip forays inside.
Practicalities
The nearest airport is at Katima Mulilo, while access to the park by road is via Divundu, Kongola and Katima Mulilo. The park's distinct areas, with the best wildlife at the far eastern and western extremities, mean that it's necessary to plan ahead. The Mahango Game Reserve and Kwando Core Area are, for the moment at least, the most rewarding choices.
4Sleeping
While private concessions here handle their own bookings, the campsite at Popa Falls is run by NWR and must be prebooked through its main office in Windhoek. Also at the eastern end of the park are several accommodation options. Otherwise, there's a growing population of lodges and campsites along the east bank of the Kwando River, across the water from the Kwando Core Area.
Ngepi CampLODGE$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %066-259903; www.ngepicamp.com; camping N$140, bush or tree huts per person from N$770)
One of Namibia’s top backpacker lodges that appeals beyond the budget market, Ngepi makes a great base for the area. Crash for the night in a bush hut or tree hut, or pitch a tent on grass right by the river’s edge and let the sounds of hippos splashing about ease you into a restful sleep; we love the outdoor bathtubs.
Laze about in lovely green, shady common areas during the day and find a chat partner at the happening bar in the evening. There’s also a wide range of inexpensive excursions, including Mahango wildlife drives (N$420, three hours), canoe trips, booze cruises and mokoro (traditional dugout canoe) trips in the Okavango Panhandle. Or try a local village walk. The camp is 4km off the main road, though the sandy access can prove difficult without a high-clearance vehicle. Phone the lodge if you need a lift from Divundu.
Mavunje CampsiteCAMPGROUND$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %081 461 9608; mashiriversafaris.com/campsites.html; camping N$185, tented camp per person N$400)
Excellent campsites just across the Kwando River from the Kwando Core Area of Bwabwata National Park. Sites have private shower and toilet, there's a kitchen and covered dining area, and elephants are known to wander through camp. There are also some simple safari-style tents on the site.
Mukolo CampsiteCAMPGROUND$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %081 124 0403, 081 124 7542; mukolocamp@mtcmobile.com.na; camping N$150; s)
This simple campsite overlooks a channel of the Kwando River and is an excellent base for excursions in the area; fishing trips can be arranged here. Three of the sites sit right on the water, and all have electricity and an ablutions block with flush toilets and hot water. The turn-off to the campsite is 8.6km south of Kongola along the C49, from where it's 1.3km to camp.
There are also plans for self-catering cabins.
Nunda River LodgeLODGE$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %066-259093; www.nundaonline.com; camping/safari tents per person N$150/780, chalets N$875)
This very welcoming lodge has an appealing aesthetic comprising stone buildings with thatched roofs and wooden decks on the river’s edge. It’s really well set up, with relaxing common areas overlooking the water where you can catch the breeze. The campsites are excellent, with sites 6 and 7 the best; all have power, braai (barbecue) plates and bins.
Safari tents are also on the riverbank, with a small table and chair on the deck out the front to enjoy the water views. Chalets are set up in a similar way to the safari tents but are roomier and have bigger bathrooms – but if it’s the views you’re after, go for a safari tent. Rates are often reduced if they’re not busy.
oNambwa Tented LodgeLODGE, CAMPGROUND$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.africanmonarchlodges.com/nambwa-luxury-tented-lodge; camping N$195, s/d Jul-Oct N$6415/9930, Apr-Jun & Nov N$5045/7790, Dec-Mar N$3195/6390; W)
Nambwa, 14km south of Kongola, is one of the very few places to stay in the park itself. It combines an excellent campsite with a luxury lodge, replete with elevated walkways, stunning interiors (tree trunks and antique chandeliers, anyone?) and glorious views out over the flood plains. Some of Bwabwata's best wildlife areas are close by, and the lodge overlooks a water hole that's especially popular with animals late in the dry season.
Elephants are perhaps the most frequent visitors. To reach the lodge, follow the 4WD track south along the western bank of the Kwando River. Transfers can be arranged from Kongola and elsewhere.
Namashashe LodgeLODGE$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %061-427200; www.gondwana-collection.com/the-zambezi-experience/.namushasha-river-lodge/; s/d incl breakfast N$1710/2748; s)
Part of the upmarket Gondwana Collection chain, Namashashe sits just across the river from Bwabwata National Park with all the wildlife possibilities that brings. It's also particularly good for birdlife and hippos, and the whole property takes full advantage of the Kwando River frontage. The large and lovely rooms have slate-tiled floors, which cool things down nicely when the weather starts to become uncomfortably hot.
Camp KwandoLODGE$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 206 1514; www.campkwando.cc.na; camping N$150, s with half board N$1130-1840, d with half board N$2020-2520; s)
This gorgeous property has luxury thatch-and-canvas chalets that each overlook the Kwando River in all its glory. Elephants and abundant birdlife are frequent visitors, while the soaring ceilings, prolific use of wood and four-poster beds are all stunning. There's also a grassy and shady campsite.
ZONES OF BWABWATA
Bwabwata includes a number of zones: the Divundu area, the West Caprivi Triangle, the Mahango Game Reserve, Popa Falls, former West Caprivi Game Reserve and the Kwando Core Area. The Mahango Game Reserve presently has the largest concentrations of wildlife, while the Kwando Core Area is where the repopulation of carnivores is really taking off.
Divundu, with two (nominally) 24-hour petrol stations and a relatively well-stocked supermarket, is merely a product of the road junction. The real population centres are the neighbouring villages of Mukwe, Andara and Bagani. Divundu is marked as Bagani on some maps and road signs, though technically they’re separate places about 2km apart.
The West Caprivi Triangle, the wedge bounded by Angola to the north, Botswana to the south and the Kwando River to the east, was formerly the richest wildlife area in the Caprivi. Poaching, bush clearing, burning and human settlement have greatly reduced wildlife, though you can still access the area via the road along the western bank of the Kwando River near Kongola.
Finally, the Golden Hwy between Rundu and Katima Mulilo traverses the former West Caprivi Game Reserve. Although this was once a haven for large herds of elephants, it served as a pantry for local hunters and poachers for decades, and was for too long largely devoid of wildlife. But this zone is becoming an important corridor for wildlife from northern Botswana and the Caprivi Strip and the hitherto-threatened wildlife of southeastern Angola.
8Getting There & Away
The paved Trans-Caprivi Highway between Rundu and Katima Mulilo is perfectly suited to 2WD vehicles, as is the gravel road between Divundu and Mohembo (on the Botswana border). Drivers may transit the park without charge, but you will incur national park entry fees if you use the loop drive through the park.
BORDER CROSSING: MAHANGO–MOHEMBO
About 12km before the Mahango–Mohembo border (6am to 6pm) with Botswana is the entry point to the Mahango Game Reserve. If you’re transiting to the border there is no fee payable – just fill out the register at the entrance gate, indicating that you have entered the area. At the border, formalities are straightforward – on the Namibian side, fill in a departure card and get your passport stamped at the immigration desk. On your way to the Botswana side, you need to stop at the exit gate, enter a small office and fill out the registration book (you’ll need your licence and vehicle details). It's a fairly quiet border post – very few trucks pass this way – so you should be on your way in no time at all.
On the Botswana side, fill in the registration book for your vehicle, the entry card and get your passport stamped. Pay P140 (or N$190) for a road permit and insurance (payment accepted in either currency). Welcome to Botswana.
Katima Mulilo
Pop 28,360 / %066
Out on a limb at the eastern end of the Caprivi Strip, remote Katima Mulilo is as far from Windhoek (1200km) as you can get and still be in Namibia. Once known for the elephants that marched through the village streets, Katima is a sprawling town these days, one that thrives as a border town – Zambia's border is just 4km away, while Botswana is less than 100km away to the southeast – and minor commercial centre.
THE FIGHT FOR CAPRIVI
The Caprivi has only recently found its way to peace. On 2 August 1999, rebels – mainly members of Namibia’s Lozi minority letd by Mishake Muyongo, a former vice president of Swapo and a long-time proponent of Caprivian independence – attempted to seize Katima Mulilo. However, the poorly trained perpetrators failed to capture any of their intended targets, and after only a few hours, they were summarily put down by the Namibian Defence Force (NDF).
Later that year, Nujoma committed troops from the NDF to support the Angolan government in its civil war against Unita rebels – an act that triggered years of strife for the inhabitants of the Caprivi Strip, where fighting and lawlessness spilled over the border. When a family of French tourists was robbed and murdered while driving between Kongola and Divundu, the issue exploded in the international press, causing tourist numbers to plummet. Continuing reports of fighting, attacks on civilians and land-mine detonations caused a huge exodus of people from the region, and kept tourists firmly away until the cessation of the conflict in 2002.
4Sleeping
Mukusi CabinsCABIN$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %066-253255; www.mukusi.com; Engen petrol station, off B8; campsites N$120, s incl breakfast N$28-460, d incl breakfast N$400-640; a)
Although it lacks the riverside location of other properties in the area, this oasis behind the Engen petrol station has a good range of accommodation, from simple rooms with fans to small but comfortable air-con cabins. The lovely bar-restaurant dishes up a range of unexpected options – including calamari, snails and kingklip – as well as steak and chicken standbys.
Caprivi Houseboat Safari LodgeHOUSEBOAT, LODGE$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %066-252287; www.zambezisafaris.com; off Ngoma Rd; s/d from N$750/1100)
Rustic en-suite chalet accommodation with mosquito nets, ceiling fans provide a lovely sense of being close to nature, but it's the houseboats that are the real novelty here. These aren't luxury houseboats, but the fun value is extremely high and it's certainly a wonderful experience to spend a night actually on the Zambezi... As you'd expect in this part of the world, the birdwatching is a highlight.
Caprivi River LodgeLODGE$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %066-252288; www.capriviriverlodge.com; Ngoma Rd; s N$480-1250, d N$780-1600; as)
This diverse lodge offers options to suit travellers of all budgets, from rustic cabins with shared bathrooms to luxurious chalets facing the Zambezi River. It also offers a decent variety of activities, including boating, fishing and wildlife drives in the various Caprivi parks. The lodge is 5km from town along Ngoma Rd.
oProtea Hotel Zambezi LodgeLODGE$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %066-251500; www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/mpapr-protea-hotel-zambezi-river-lodge/; Ngoma Rd; camping N$100, r from N$1058; ais)
This stunning riverside lodge is perched on the banks of the Zambezi and features a floating bar where you can watch the crocs and hippos below. The campsite is amid a flowery garden, while accommodation is in well-equipped modern rooms that open up to small verandas and ample views.
7Shopping
Caprivi Arts CentreARTS & CRAFTS
( GOOGLE MAP ; h8am-5.30pm)
Run by the Caprivi Art & Cultural Association, the centre is a good place to look for local curios and crafts, including elephant and hippo woodcarvings, baskets, bowls, kitchen implements, and traditional knives and spears.
8Getting There & Away
Air
AAir Namibia (www.airnamibia.com.na) has several weekly departures between Windhoek’s Eros Airport and Katima’s Mpacha Airport, located 18km southwest of town.
Bus & Minibus
Three weekly Intercape Mainliner buses make the 16-hour run between Windhoek and Katima Mulilo. Book your tickets (fares from N$530) in advance online, as this service continues on to Victoria Falls and fills up quickly.
Combis connect Windhoek and Katima with fairly regular frequency, and a ride shouldn’t cost more than N$280. From Katima, routes fan out to various towns and cities in the north.
Car
The paved Golden Hwy runs between Katima Mulilo and Rundu, and is in excellent condition, accessible to all 2WD vehicles.
BORDER CROSSINGS: EASTERN CAPRIVI STRIP
Zambia–Victoria Falls
The border crossing between Zambia and Namibia (7am to 6pm) can take a couple of hours if you're heading into Zambia, far less if going the other way – the Namibian side of things is generally quick and easy but Zambian formalities can take a little longer.
Visa fees into Zambia cost US$50 per person for most nationalities, and you'll also have to pay the Zambian road toll (US$48), carbon tax (ZMK150), third party vehicle insurance (ZMK487, valid for one month and payable even if you already have insurance). There is a bank next to the border post. Changing money at the bank is preferable to the young men who will approach your vehicle with wads of kwacha. If you arrive outside banking hours and are left with no choice, make sure you know the current exchange rates, count your money carefully and don't let them hurry you into a quick exchange that will rarely be to your benefit.
If you're heading to Liuwa National Park and other places in Zambia's far west, an excellent paved road runs from the border all the way to Mongu and Kalabo, at the entrance to Liuwa National Park.
If you're on your way to Livingstone, the road is paved but not in great condition. It is, however, accessible in a 2WD and provides access to Livingstone and other destinations in Zambia.
Botswana–Kasane & Chobe
With a private vehicle, the Ngoma Bridge (8am to 6pm) border crossing enables you to access Chobe National Park (Botswana) and Kasane (Botswana) in just a couple of hours. Border crossings are straightforward on both sides – assuming that all of your paperwork is in order. Unless you get stuck behind a tour bus, you should be through both sides in well under an hour.
Once in Botswana, if you stick to the Chobe National Park Transit Route, you’re excused from paying Botswana park fees, but that would only be worth it if you're in a hurry to get elsewhere.
Mpalila Island
%066
Mpalila (Impalilia) Island, a wedge driven between the Chobe and Zambezi Rivers, represents Namibia’s outer limits at the ‘four-corners meeting’ of Zimbabwe, Botswana, Namibia and Zambia. The island itself, which is within easy reach by boat from Chobe National Park, is home to a handful of exclusive lodges catering to upmarket tourists in search of luxurious isolation.
4Sleeping
Prebooking is essential for all accommodation on the island. All lodges offer a variety of activities for guests, including cruises on the Chobe River, guided wildlife drives, fishing expeditions, island walks and mokoro (dugout canoe) trips. Rates include full board and transfers.
oChobe Savannah LodgeLODGE$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %in South Africa 021-4241037; www.desertdelta.co.za; Jan-Apr/Jun-Dec US$410/650; as)
The most famous spot on the island, Chobe Savannah Lodge is one of Desert & Delta's flagship properties and is renowned for its panoramic views of the wildlife-rich Puku Flats. Each stylishly decorated room has a private veranda from where you can spot animals without ever having to change out of your pyjamas.
oInchingo Chobe River LodgeLODGE$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %in South Africa 27-21-715 2412; www.zqcollection.com/ichingo-lp; two-night all-incl packages s US$559-780, d US$860-1200)
Right by the water and rich in birdsong, Inchingo has an exclusive, alluring feel to it. Air-conditioned safari tents (from where you can hear the Chobe River flowing by) have wood floors, plenty of space and catch refreshing riverine breezes. Great food, stellar birdwatching and plenty of big-game wildlife nearby make for a wonderful place to spend some time; minimum two-night stay.
Kaza Safari LodgeLODGE$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %061-401047; s/d from US$550/740; as)
Overlooking the impressive Mombova rapids, Kaza Safari Lodge (formerly Impalila Island Lodge) is a stylish retreat of eight luxury chalets built of wood on elevated decks at the water’s edge. The centrepiece of the lodge is a pair of ancient baobab trees, which tower majestically over the grounds.