Environment
Botswana’s environment stands front and centre to any visit to the country, from its stirring natural attributes of desert and delta to the wildlife that populates these extreme landscapes. Endangered species and species protection are among the most important environmental issues facing the country, but so, too, are the fraught problems of water scarcity; creeping desertification; managing the difficult balance between the lucrative livestock and tourism sectors; and the emotive issue of commercial or trophy hunting.
The Land
Botswana is the geographic heart of sub-Saharan Africa, extending over 1100km from north to south and 960km from east to west, an area of 582,000 sq km that’s equivalent in size to France. The country is entirely landlocked, and is bordered to the south and southeast by South Africa, across the Limpopo and Molopo Rivers; to the northeast by Zimbabwe; and to the north and west by Namibia.
The Kalahari
Around 100 million years ago the supercontinent Gondwanaland dramatically broke up. As the land mass ripped apart, the edges of the African continent rose up, forming the mountain ranges of Southern and central Africa. Over the millennium, water and wind weathered these highlands, carrying the fine dust inland to the Kalahari Basin. At 2.5 million sq km, it’s the earth’s largest unbroken tract of sand, stretching from northern South Africa to eastern Namibia and Angola, and to Zambia and Zimbabwe in the west.
Depending on who you believe, between 68% and 85% of the country, including the entire central and southwestern regions, is taken up by the Kalahari. The shifting sand dunes that compose a traditional desert are found only in the far southwest, in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. In the northeast are the great salty deserts of the Makgadikgadi Pans; in ancient times part of a vast superlake, they’re now the largest (about 12,000 sq km) complex of salt pans in the world and considered to be part of the Kalahari.
In Botswana, large tracts of the Kalahari are protected, with at least five protected areas (listed from north to south):
Okavango Delta
The Okavango Delta is one of Africa’s most extraordinary landscapes, not to mention the antidote to the Kalahari’s endless sea of sand. Covering between 13,000 and 18,000 sq km, it snakes into the country from Angola to form a watery paradise of convoluted channels and islands that appear and disappear depending on the water levels. The delta is home to more than 2000 plant species, 450 bird species and 65 fish species, not to mention an estimated 200,000 large mammals.
The delta owes its existence to a tectonic trough in the Kalahari basin, a topographical depression that ensures that the waters of the Okavango River evaporate or are drunk by plants without ever reaching the sea; the delta is extremely flat with no more than a 2m variation in the land’s altitude, which means that the waters simply come to a halt. The delta’s waters surge and subside at the behest of the rains in far-off Angola, and every year around 11 cu km of water flood into the delta. The flooding is seasonal, beginning in the Angolan highlands in January and February, the waters travelling approximately 1200km in a month. Having reached the delta, the waters disperse across it from March to June, before peaking in July and August – during these months, the water surface area of the delta can be three times that of the nonflooding periods.
Mountains
Botswana could be one of the flattest countries on earth, but there are a few sites of topographical interest. The country’s highest point above sea level is the rather modest Otse Hill (1489m), which lies around 45km south of Gaborone.
Of far greater interest are the Tsodilo Hills in the country’s far northwest, with dramatic scenery and prehistoric rock art; the Tswapong Hills, a range of low, flat-topped hills cut through with vertiginous canyons, good for hiking and birdwatching; and the Tuli Block, shadowing the Limpopo River in Botswana’s far east, with otherworldy kopjes (hills) rising up from the riverine plains.
Wildlife
Botswana is home to anywhere between 160 and 500 different mammal species, 593 recorded bird species, 150 different reptiles, over 8000 insect and spider species, and more than 3100 types of plants and trees.
Lions
Lions may be the easiest of the big cats to spot – leopards are notoriously secretive and largely keep to the undergrowth, while cheetahs live in populations of much lower density and can be extremely shy. But don’t let appearances fool you: the lion is under threat.
Scientists such as the peak cat conservation body Panthera (www.panthera.org) estimate that fewer than 20,000 lions remain in Africa (there is a tiny, highly inbred population of Asian lions in the Gir Forest in Gujarat state in India). Only six lion populations in Africa – the Okavango Delta is one of these – are sufficiently protected to hold at least 1000 lions, the conservation gold standard that Panthera applies for guaranteeing the long-term survival of the species. The most recent estimates for Botswana suggest a population of around 2700 lions (or roughly 14% of all lions left in Africa). Of these, the most important populations are the 1750 lions in the Okavango Delta and northern savannah woodlands (including Chobe and Savuti), around 300 in the Central Kalahari Game Reserve, and approximately 500 in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park (of which 350 are thought to reside on the Botswana side of the border). As such, Botswana is one of the lion population’s most important strongholds.
Like lions elsewhere, lions in Botswana are facing threats from poisoning, either in retaliation for killing livestock or encroaching onto farming lands, bush-meat poaching and habitat loss.
THE HUNTING DEBATE
In 2012 Botswana announced to the world that it would ban all commercial or trophy hunting within its borders from 2014. The hunting industry, previously an important money-earner for the country with numerous private hunting concessions across the country's north, was aghast, while many conservationists applauded the ban. But the ban remains controversial, including within Botswana, and the issue is far more more complicated than it may first appear.
While abhorrent to many conservationists, some recognise that controlled hunting can play an important part in preserving species. If we can distil the conservation argument in favour of hunting to its essence, it would be as follows. Tourism revenues (whether national park fees or lodge revenues) have too often failed to reach local communities, reinforcing a perception that wildlife belongs to the government. Hunting on private concessions, however, generally attracts massive fees (lion licences in Southern Africa can sell for US$20,000), of which, the theory goes, a significant proportion is fed back into local community projects, thereby giving wildlife a tangible economic value for local people. Hunting, the argument goes, also makes productive use of land which is considered unsuitable for photographic tourism, either because of its remoteness or infrastructure. If controlled strictly – through the use of quotas and killing only a limited number of solitary male lions who are past their prime, for example – hunting can, according to its proponents, play a part in saving species from extinction.
At the same time, opponents of hunting argue that the whole debate is premised on the failure of governments and private operators to fairly redistribute their revenues from non lethal forms of tourism – why, they ask, should we expect that hunting be any different? They also argue that the solution lies in a fairer distribution of tourism revenues and greater community involvement in conservation rather than in killing the very animals upon which tourism depends. And finally, some critics point to the double standards of arresting and imprisoning locals who hunt wildlife (whether for commercial or subsistence reasons), while permitting rich (and usually white) hunters to shoot animals during short visits to the continent. Among the biggest critics of the hunting industry is respected wildlife film-maker Dereck Joubert, who, along with Great Plains Conservation (www.greatplainsconservation.com), has transformed Botswana's Selinda Concession from a hunting concession into one of the most exclusive wildlife experiences – wildlife has returned in great numbers and the economic model seems to be working.
The debate continues.
Elephants
According to the results of the Great Elephant Census (www.greatelephantcensus.com), published in 2016, Botswana has more elephants within its borders than any other country on earth – an estimated 130,451 out of 352,271, which represents more than a third of African elephants left on the planet. According to the same continent-wide survey, Africa's elephant population fell by a staggering 30% in the preceding seven years. By these standards, Botswana – which has lost 15% of its elephant population since 2010 – is doing better than other countries, although the figures are still deeply concerning; some 7% of elephants seen from the air in Botswana during the census were carcasses.
Botswana's elephants overwhelmingly inhabit the country's north, spread across the Okavango Delta and Chobe National Park. The Chobe population in particular, which may number more than 70,000 elephants, represents the densest concentration of elephants on the planet.
Rhinos
Rhinoceroses were once plentiful across Botswana, particularly in the north, with black rhinos concentrated around the Chobe River and white rhinos more widely spread across Chobe, Moremi and elsewhere in the Okavango Delta. But the poaching holocaust in the 1970s and 1980s that sent numbers of both black and white rhinos plummeting across Africa saw the rhino all but disappear from Botswana. By 1992 the black rhino was considered extinct in Botswana, with just 19 white rhinos remaining in the country.
At around the same time, the 4300-hectare Khama Rhino Sanctuary was established, and all remaining rhinos were shut away in the sanctuary in a bid to save the species. The sanctuary has been something of a success story, now protecting around 30 white rhinos and four blacks.
Better still, in 2001 the Botswana Rhino Reintroduction Project, a collaboration between the government, conservation groups and tourism operators (among them &Beyond, Wilderness Safaris and Great Plains Conservation), began the process of sending rhinos once more out into the Botswana wild. At the time of writing, official estimates put Botswana's wild rhino population (mostly in Moremi Game Reserve and elsewhere in the Okavango Delta) at between 77 and 100. In 2015, airlifts of rhinos from overcrowded or imperilled South African parks began, with plans to have doubled the country's wild rhino population over the following two years.
A recent upsurge in rhino poaching – rhino horn had an estimated black-market value of US$60,000 per kilo in 2016 – has seen the number of rhinos killed in neighbouring South Africa rise from 13 in 2007 to as many as 1338 in 2015; with approximately 18,000 rhinos, South Africa is home to an estimated 90% of the world white rhinoceros population.
BOTSWANA'S ENDANGERED SPECIES
According to the International Union for the Conservation of Nature (IUCN), species which are listed as Vulnerable in Botswana include the cheetah, black-footed cat, lion and hippo. In greater trouble and listed as Endangered is the African wild dog, while the black rhino is considered Critically Endangered.
African Wild Dogs
One of Botswana’s most charismatic creatures, the African wild dog (also known as the Cape hunting dog) is under serious threat. Where once half a million wild dogs roamed 39 African countries, today only 3000 to 5300 remain in the wild in just 14 countries.
African wild dogs live in packs of up to 28 animals, which may account for the fact that they have one of the highest hunting success rates (as high as 70%) of all carnivores – that and their maximum speed of 66km/h. Their preferred prey includes impala, red lechwe, wildebeest, steenbok and warthog.
Moremi Game Reserve is believed to be home to 30% of the world’s population, with the Linyanti Marshes one of the best places to spot wild dog packs. Numbers are lower, but the species also persists in the Central Kalahari Game Reserve and the Tuli Block.
Reptiles & Amphibians
Botswana’s dry lands are home to over 150 species of reptile. These include 72 species of snake, such as the poisonous Mozambique spitting cobra, Egyptian cobra and black mamba. Although about 80% of snakes in Botswana are not venomous, watch out for the deadly puff adder, much more frequently seen than the cobras and mamba. Tree snakes, known as boomslangs, are also common in the delta.
Lizards are everywhere; the largest are leguaans (water monitors), docile creatures that reach over 2m in length. Smaller versions, savannah leguaans, inhabit small hills and drier areas. Also present in large numbers are geckos, chameleons and rock-plated lizards.
Although Nile crocodiles are threatened elsewhere in Southern Africa, the Okavango Delta is full of them. You will hear rather than see them while gliding through the channels in a mokoro (traditional dugout canoe).
Frogs of every imaginable shape, size and colour are more delightful; they jump from reeds to a mokoro and back again, and provide an echoing chorus throughout the delta (and elsewhere such as the Boteti River in Makgadikgadi Pans National Park) at night.
Insects & Spiders
Botswana boasts about 8000 insect and spider species. The most colourful butterflies can be found along the Okavango Panhandle (the northwestern extension of the delta), and include African monarchs and citrus swallowtails. Other insects of note include stick insects, expertly camouflaged among the reeds of the Okavango Delta; large, scary but harmless button spiders; and sac spiders, which look harmless but are poisonous (although rarely fatal) and live mainly in rural homes. The delta is also home to grasshoppers, mopane worms and locusts, as well as mosquitoes and tsetse flies in increasing and potentially dangerous numbers.
Scorpions are not uncommon in the Kalahari; although their sting is not fatal, it can be painful.
Birds
Botswana is not only a big wildlife country but also a birding paradise. Between September and March, when the delta is flush with water, you should be able to train the lenses of your binoculars on any number of Botswana’s 593 recorded species, including the delta’s famous African skimmers, the endangered wattled crane, slaty egrets, African jacanas, bee-eaters, pygmy geese and the shy Pel’s fishing owl. You can still see many bird species in the dry season, when it’s often easier to spot them around the few remaining water sources.
Birdwatching Areas
Most of Botswana’s best birding is concentrated in the north of the country around the Okavango Delta, including the Okavango Panhandle, the Chobe Riverfront, the Central Kalahari Game Reserve, Khama Rhino Sanctuary, and the Tuli Block, especially around the Limpopo River.
One especially good site is the Nata Bird Sanctuary, which is home to over a quarter of Botswana’s birds. The sanctuary is covered in a sea of pink flamingos, and other migratory birds, during the rainy season from November to Match.
Endangered Bird Species
Inevitably, the birdlife in Botswana is under threat from overgrazing, urban sprawl and insecticides that are used to tackle the scourge of tsetse flies that sometimes plague the delta.
Endangered among Botswana’s birds are wattled cranes and African skimmers. Cape Griffon vultures, which are protected in the Mannyelanong Game Reserve in Otse, also have important breeding colonies in the Moremi Gorge in the Tswapong Hills in Botswana’s east.
Useful Resources
Birding Botswana is a Maun-based operator specialising in birdwatching safaris.
BirdLife Botswana
(
%319
0540; www.birdlifebotswana.org.bw)
is BirdLife International’s local chapter and is actively involved
in conservation projects, such as building observation posts, and
organising birdwatching trips.
Plants
More than 2500 species of plant and 650 species of tree have been recorded in Botswana.
The Okavango Delta enjoys a riparian environment dominated by marsh grasses, water lilies, reeds and papyrus, and is dotted with well-vegetated islands thick with palms, acacias, leadwood and sausage trees. At the other extreme, the Kalahari is characterised by all sorts of savannah, including bush savannah with acacia thorn trees, grass savannah and arid shrub savannah in the southwest.
The country’s only deciduous mopane forests are in the north, where six forest reserves harbour stands of commercial timber, as well as both mongonga and marula trees. Also common around Botswana are camel thorn trees, which some animals find tasty and which the San use for firewood and medicinal purposes; and motlopi trees, also called shepherd’s tree, which have edible roots.
For more on the plant life of the Okavango, pick up a copy of Common Wildflowers of the Okavango Delta (1998) and Trees & Shrubs of the Okavango Delta (1998) by Veronica Roodt. Both have informative descriptions accompanied by useful paintings and drawings.
Environmental Issues
As a relatively large country with a very low population density, Botswana is one of Africa’s most unpolluted and pristine regions. Botswana faces most of the ecological problems experienced elsewhere in Africa, such as land degradation and desertification, deforestation (around 21% of the country is covered by forests), water scarcity and urban sprawl. In addition to these, some major ecological and conservation issues continue to affect the country’s deserts, wetlands and savannahs.
The Fence Dilemma
If you’ve been stopped at a veterinary checkpoint, or visited the eastern Okavango Delta, you’ll be familiar with the country’s 3000km of 1.5m-high buffalo fence, officially called the Veterinary Cordon Fence. It’s not a single fence but a series of high-tensile steel-wire barriers that run cross-country through some of Botswana’s wildest terrain.
The fences were first erected in 1954 to segregate wild buffalo herds from domestic free-range cattle in order to thwart the spread of foot-and-mouth disease. Botswana’s beef-farming industry is one of the most important in the country, both economically and in terms of the status conferred upon cattle owners in Batswana society. At the same time, wildlife tourism is a major money earner and the country’s international reputation is often tied to its perceived willingness to protect the country’s wildlife. Balancing these two significant yet sometimes-conflicting industries is one of the most complicated challenges facing Botswana’s government.
FENCES: A HISTORY OF CONFLICT
Fences are a big issue in Botswana. At its core, the issue is simple: wildlife populations and the country's lucrative livestock herds don't mix, and so the government has built fences stretching for thousands of kilometres to separate them. In practice, it's all a bit more complicated than that.
The main problem with Botswana’s fences are that many prevent wild animals from migrating to water sources along age-old seasonal routes; national parks often enclose only part of their migratory routes. As a result, Botswana’s wildebeest population has declined by 99% over the past 20 years and all remaining buffaloes and zebras are stranded and in decline because of the fences.
The worst disaster occurred in the drought of 1983, in which the Kuke Fence barred herds of wildebeests heading for the Okavango waters, resulting in the death of 65,000 animals. The final section of Mark and Delia Owens’ Cry of the Kalahari (1984) chronicles another heartbreaking example, with wildebeest from the southern Kalahari suddenly barred from their grazing grounds around Lake Xau. The Owens’ publicising of the issue ultimately led to their expulsion from the country.
The 80km-long Northern Buffalo Fence (a fence designed to separate wild buffalo herds from domestic livestock populations north of the Okavango Delta) has opened a vast expanse of wildlife-rich – but as yet unprotected – territory to cattle ranching. Safari operators wanted the fence set as far north as possible to protect the seasonally flooded Selinda Spillway; prospective cattle ranchers wanted it set as far south as possible, maximising new grazing lands. The government sided with the ranchers and the fence opened up to 20% of the Okavango Delta to commercial ranching.
In 2003 the controversy started up again with the proposal of a new cordon fence around the Makgadikgadi Pans. When (or if) completed, the fence will extend for 480km and is intended to limit predator-livestock conflict along the Boteti River. However, on the completion of the western section of the fence, the Environmental Investigation Agency (www.eia-international.org) found that the alignment failed to adhere to the suggestions of the Department of Wildlife & National Parks Environmental Appraisal, and as a result the majority of the Boteti River now lies outside the park, cutting off the animals within.
The net effect was immediately felt: in early 2005 some 300 zebras died trying to reach the river. In addition, the cattle fence around the Okavango Delta has already been damaged by roving elephant herds. The issue has been largely frozen in time since then and the fence has been allowed to deteriorate to such an extent that elephants and other wildlife now routinely cross the Boteti River unimpeded.
Dangers Threatening the Delta
Despite its status as a biodiversity hot spot, Unesco World Heritage–listed site and the largest Ramsar Wetland Site on the planet, the Okavango Delta has no international protection (apart from the Moremi Game Reserve), despite the fact that many prominent conservationists consider it to be under threat.
Wetland ecosystems are disappearing globally at an alarming rate, partly due to climate change and partly due to mismanagement and unsustainable development, and the Okavango Delta is no exception. Already a survey team from the DWNP and BirdLife Botswana has concluded that the delta is shrinking. The Kubango River – originating in the highlands of Angola – carries less water and floods the delta for a shorter period of the year.
Other key threats include overgrazing, which is already resulting in accelerated land and soil degradation, commercial gill netting and illegal fire lighting, unplanned developments in Angola as post-civil-war resettlement occurs, and pressure for new and increased abstraction of water for mining, domestic use, agriculture and tourism. Most worrying of these is the proposed extraction of water from the Okavango River to supply the growing needs of Namibia. One such proposal is the construction of a 1250km-long pipeline from the Okavango River to Namibia’s capital, Windhoek, which first reared its head in 1997 and has grown and faltered in fits and starts since.
In 1994 Botswana, Namibia and Angola signed the Okavango River Basin Commission (www.okacom.org), aimed at coordinating the sustainable management of the delta’s waters. Although the commission has high principles, the practicalities on the ground are far from simple and the process of moving towards a sustainable management plan and eventual treaty has been very slow. As Angola, the basin state where 95% of the water flow originates, settles into its first period of peace in some 30 years, it is hoped that the pace will accelerate.
Poaching
Poaching is not common in Botswana due to its relatively stable economy, which makes such a risky and illegal undertaking unnecessary and unattractive. Also, transporting hides and tusks overland from remote areas of Botswana to ports hundreds of kilometres away in other countries is well nigh impossible, especially considering Botswana’s well-patrolled borders, which are monitored by the Botswana Defence Force (BDF). What little poaching there is seems to be ‘for the pot’ – local people supplementing their diets by hunting wild animals – rather than large-scale commercial enterprises.
National Parks & Reserves
Around one-third of Botswana’s land mass is officially protected, representing one of the highest proportions of protected areas on earth. According to the United Nations Environment Program (UNEP), the figure is 30.2%. Government sources put it at around 17% of the country locked away in parks or game reserves, with another 20% in ‘wildlife management areas’ (WMA). Most parks in Botswana are characterised by vast open spaces with a few private safari concessions, next to no infrastructure and limited amenities.
NATIONAL PARKS – BEST OF BOTSWANA
| Park | Features | Activities | Best time |
|---|---|---|---|
| Central Kalahari Game Reserve | 52,800 sq km; one of the largest protected areas in the world; semi-arid grassland | wildlife viewing; walking; visiting San villages | year-round |
| Chobe National Park | 11,700 sq km; mosaic of grassland and woodland; high elephant population | wildlife viewing; birdwatching; fishing | Jun-Oct |
| Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park | 38,000 sq km; straddles the South African border; semi-arid grassland | wildlife viewing; birdwatching | year-round |
| Khutse Game Reserve | 2590 sq km; adjoins Central Kalahari Game Reserve; same features | wildlife viewing; walking; visiting San villages | year-round |
| Makgadikgadi & Nxai Pans NPs | 7300 sq km; largest salt pans in the world; migratory zebras and wildebeest; flamingos | wildlife viewing; trekking with San; quad biking | Mar-Jul |
| Moremi Game Reserve | 3800 sq km; grassland, flood plains and swamps; huge wildlife density | wildlife viewing; walking; scenic flights; boating | Jun-Oct |
| Northern Tuli Game Reserve | collection of private reserves; unique rock formations | wildlife viewing; horse riding; walking; night drives | May-Sep |
| Khama Rhino Sanctuary | 43 sq km; last refuge of Botswana’s rhinos | wildlife viewing; birdwatching | May-Oct |
Visiting National Parks
All public national parks and reserves in
Botswana are run by the Department of Wildlife & National Parks
(DWNP;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %381
0774; dwnp@gov.bw; Millenium
Office Park, New Lobatse Rd; 
h7.30am-4.30pm
Mon-Fri, 7.30am-12.45pm & 1.45-4.30pm Sat, 7.30am-12.45pm
Sun). There are other
park offices in
Maun and
Kasane, as well as a rarely visited outpost in
Kang.
There are a few things worth remembering about visiting Botswana’s national parks and reserves:
- Park fees have long been slated for a significant rise – we thought it would have happened by now, but don’t be surprised if they’re significantly above those listed here by the time you arrive.
- Although there are exceptions (such as the Chobe Riverfront section of Chobe National Park) and it may be possible on rare occasions to get park rangers to bend the rules, no one is allowed into a national park or reserve without an accommodation booking for that park.
- It is possible to pay park entrance fees at park entrance gates, after a spell in which places had to be reserved and fees paid in advance at DWNP offices in Gaborone, Maun or Kasane (you’ll still see some signs around Botswana to that effect). Even so, you should always try to book and pay in advance.
- The gates for each DWNP park are open from 6am to 6.30pm (1 April to 30 September) and from 5.30am to 7pm (1 October to 31 March). It is vital that all visitors be out of the park, or settled into their campsite, outside of these hours. Driving after dark is strictly forbidden (although it is permitted in private concessions).
Camping & Booking
The Department of Wildlife & National Parks runs a small number of campsites (especially in the Central Kalahari Game Reserve and Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park), and reservations for any DWNP campsite can be made up to 12 months in advance at the DWNP offices in Maun or Gaborone; Chobe National Park bookings are also possible at the Kasane DWNP office. It’s at these offices that you can also pay the park entry fees (upon presenting proof of a confirmed campsite reservation).
We recommend that, wherever possible, you make the bookings in person or arrange for someone to do so on your behalf. In theory, the DWNP also allows you to make bookings over the phone or via email, but in practice getting anyone to answer the phone or reply to emails is far more challenging than it should be. If you do manage to make a phone or email booking, insist on receiving (either by fax, email or letter) a receipt with a reference number on it that you must keep and quote if you need to change your reservation.
When making the reservation, you need to tell the DWNP:
- the name of the preferred campsite(s) within the park – in order of preference if listing more than one
- the number of nights required, and the date of your arrival at and departure from the park and campsite
- the number of adults and children camping
- the vehicle’s number plates and also the country in which the vehicle is registered (this may be waived if you don’t yet have a vehicle)
- proof of your status if you are not paying ‘foreigner’ rates.
Once you have booked it is difficult to change anything, so make sure to plan your trip well and allow enough time to get there and look around. A refund (less a 10% administration charge) is only possible with more than 30 days’ notice.
Costs
Infants and children up to the age of seven are entitled to free entry into the national parks.
| Foreigners | |
| Adult | P120 |
| Child (8-17) | P60 |
| Camping | P50 |
| Vehicles <3500kg | P50 |
Survival Guide
8Directory A–Z
Accommodation
The story of Botswana’s accommodation is a story of extremes. At one end, there are fabulously located campsites for self-drivers (the closest the country comes to budget accommodation outside the main towns). At the other extreme, there are top-end lodges where prices can be eye-wateringly high. In between, you will find some midrange options in the major towns and places such as the Okavango Panhandle, but elsewhere there’s very little for the midrange (and nothing for the noncamping budget) traveller.
SLEEPING PRICE RANGES
The following price ranges refer to a double room with bathroom. Unless otherwise stated, breakfast is included in the price. Upmarket places tend to price in US dollars rather than pula.
$ less than US$50
$$ US$50–100
$$$ more than US$100
Bed Levy & Government Tax
Note that all hotels, lodges, campsites and other forms of accommodation are required by the government to charge a P10 bed levy per person per night. This levy is rarely, if ever, included in quoted accommodation rates.
In addition to the levy, a 12% government tax is levied on hotels and lodges (but not all campsites) and, unlike the levy, is usually included in prices.
Seasons
While most budget and midrange options tend to have a standard room price, many top-end places change their prices according to season. High season is usually from June to November (and may also apply to Christmas, New Year and Easter, depending on the lodge), low season corresponds to the rains (December to March or April) and the shoulder is a short April and May window. The only exception is the Kalahari, where June to November is generally considered to be low season.
Camping
Just about every place of interest, including all major national parks, has a campsite. Once the domain of the Department of Wildlife and National Parks (DWNP), many of the campsites are now privately run.
The change in ownership has seen prices rise considerably. In some cases, the companies in question have upgraded the ablutions blocks to have hot and cold showers and flush toilets, and they generally make sure the sites are in good nick. Others do little to maintain their sites, offer cold bucket showers and pit toilets and run inefficient booking systems. All campsites have braai (barbecue) pits.
All campsites must be booked in advance and they fill up fast in busy periods, such as during South African school holidays. It is very important to remember that you will not be allowed into almost every park run by the DWNP without a reservation for a campsite.
Camping areas are usually small, often with only two or three places to pitch a tent and/or park a vehicle.
Outside of the parks and reserves, some hotels and lodges also provide camping areas. Most private and hotel/lodge campsites have sit-down toilets, showers (often hot), braai pits and washing areas. One definite attraction is that campers can use the hotel bars and restaurants and splash around the hotel swimming pool for free.
Other places where camping is possible include the Tsodilo Hills and Khama Rhino Sanctuary.
Elsewhere, camping in the wild is permitted outside national parks, reserves, private land and away from government freehold areas. If you want to camp near a village, obtain permission from the village leader or police station and enquire about a suitable site.
The camping prices we’ve given are per person and per night unless otherwise stated.
Hotels
Every major town has at least one hotel, and the larger towns and tourist areas, such as Gaborone, Maun, Francistown and Kasane, offer several in different price ranges. In general, midrange and top-end travellers are well looked after, but budget travellers will struggle to find anything as cheap as the budget accommodation in Namibia (the really cheap places in Botswana often double as brothels). There’s a relatively high demand for hotel rooms in Gaborone, in particular from business travellers, so it pays to book ahead here and also elsewhere in the high season.
The range of hotel accommodation available includes rondavels, which are detached rooms or cottages with a private bathroom; B&B-type places, often with a shared bathroom (mostly in Gaborone); motel-style units with a private bathroom and, sometimes, cooking facilities, usually along the highways of eastern Botswana; and luxury hotels in major towns.
WHAT NOT TO EXPECT FROM YOUR LUXURY LODGE
The experience of staying in a remote safari lodge invariably involves high levels of service and comfort, but there are some things that, it may surprise you to learn, your rather large nightly rate does not necessarily entitle you to (although there is considerable variety in what's on offer):
A24-hour electricity Some camps have it, some don't.
AIn-room electricity Some have power points in your room or tent, others have an area where you can charge your phone, laptop or camera batteries in the main communal area. In some camps, candlelight and gas lanterns provide the only lights in your tent.
AWi-fi Very few lodges have wi-fi, even in communal areas. Although most will have some way of communicating with the outside world in case of emergency, these are not generally available to guests. Check with the company in question when making your booking.
APrivate game drives In most lodges you'll be partnered with other guests with whom you will share a boat or game-drive vehicle. If you want a private vehicle and guide, you must usually pay extra. On most occasions, the shared nature causes few problems, but it may be less than ideal if you have a particular interest (eg birdwatching) or desire to spend longer out on the trail or watching that pride of lions sleep under a tree.
Lodges & Tented Camps
Botswana’s claim to being Africa’s most exclusive destination is built around its luxury lodges (sometimes called ‘camps’). You’ll find them where there are decent concentrations of wildlife, most notably in Chobe National Park, the Tuli Block, Moremi Game Reserve, all over the Okavango Delta and, to a lesser extent, the parks and reserves of the Kalahari. It’s impossible to generalise about them, other than to say that most pride themselves on their isolation, exclusivity, luxury and impeccable service. Most feature permanent or semipermanent luxury tents, a communal dining area overlooking a water hole or other important geographical feature, and a swimming pool.
For many visitors, they’re once-in-a-lifetime places with accommodation rates to match – some start at around US$1000/1500 per person per night in the low/high season, but many cost considerably more than that. Usually included in these rates are all meals, some drinks and most wildlife drives and other activities. Most places are only accessible by 4WD transfer or air; the latter will cost an extra US$150 to US$200 per leg.
24 HOURS IN A SAFARI CAMP
All of the fly-in, luxury lodges and safari camps in the Okavango Delta and elsewhere follow a remarkably similar formula when it comes to your daily program.
Wake-up This usually takes place at 6am, but can be as early as 5.30am or as late as 6.30am. You can, of course, ask for a lie-in, but unless you have a private game drive organised (and paid for), this will most often mean missing the morning activity. Sometimes a staff member will bring you tea, coffee or juice, though more often it's a firm but discreet 'good morning!' from outside your tent or room. Once they hear a response and know you're awake, they'll leave.
Breakfast This happens around half an hour after your wake-up call.
Morning activity Whether it's a game drive, nature walk or a mokoro (dugout canoe) trip, this usually begins around 7am, though a 6.30am departure is generally preferable to make the most of the morning's best light.
Brunch/lunch Unless your activity involves being out all day (in which case, you'll have lunch somewhere out on the trail), you'll most often return to camp around 10.30am or 11am. You'll be given time to return to your room and freshen up before brunch or lunch is served, usually around half an hour after your return to camp (11.30am is the most common time).
Relax After brunch/lunch you're free to return to your room or tent for a siesta, go for a swim in the swimming pool, or hang out in the bar – this is free time and how you spend it is usually up to you.
High tea This old, colonial-era institution is alive and well. At around 3.30pm or 4pm, guests are served afternoon tea, which in some lodges can be quite lavish and large, and more simple in others. It usually involves coffee and tea, while you may be offered something a little stronger.
Afternoon activity At around 4pm or 4.30pm, you'll head out on a game drive, boat activity or nature walk. Guides will usually make sure that you are somewhere special for that perfect safari sunset experience – the sundowner. At the better camps, they will ask you for your sundowner drink of choice before setting out from camp. Drinks are often accompanied by nibbles.
Dinner Returning to camp after sunset, you'll again be given time to return to your room or tent if you wish. In almost every safari camp or lodge, you must be accompanied by a staff member as you go to and from your tents after dark, due to the dangers of wandering wildlife. Dinner is usually served around 7pm and is sometimes accompanied by some form of entertainment, such as a dance performance or a predinner nature lecture.
Activities
Such is the nature of travelling in Botswana that even the most tranquil holidays will involve some form of activities, from rugged 4WD excursions to poling gently along the Okavango Delta’s waterways in a traditional mokoro (dugout canoe). Beyond these activities there are few options, and most activities that are possible are organised as part of lodge packages rather than designed for individual travellers.
Hiking
Botswana lags behind neighbours Namibia and Zambia as a hiking destination, although a number of treks are possible.
Walking safaris in the company of an armed guard form part of the available activities at many lodges, and leaving the safety of your vehicle will sharpen your senses and your awareness of your surroundings. Places where such hiking excursions along nature trails are possible include the Okavango Delta, the Central Kalahari Game Reserve (CKGR) and the Makgadikgadi Pans. The treks run out of the luxury lodges of the Makgadikgadi Pans or the CKGR, for example, are a fascinating opportunity to explore the arid environs with San guides, who can point out the hidden details of the landscape and its specially adapted flora and fauna.
You don’t need to stay at a luxury lodge or tented camp to explore a small corner of the delta on foot, as many of the mokoro expeditions organised from Maun include walking components. Also, a small but growing number of mobile safaris in the delta and Moremi Game Reserve, organised from Maun, involve multiday hikes.
Options are limited for more free-range trekking, but the Tsodilo Hills, where trails lead up to thousands of rock-art sites, are undoubtedly the premier spot. Guides are available from the main campsite in the region. Another possibility is the Tswapong Hills in the country’s east, which sees very few tourists. For both, you’ll need to be entirely self-sufficient.
Horse Riding
Cantering among herds of zebras and wildebeest is an unforgettable experience, and the horse-riding safaris in Botswana are second to none. You’ll need to be an experienced rider as most horseback safaris in Botswana don’t take beginners – after all, you need to be able to get yourself out of trouble should you encounter it.
Places where such safaris are possible:
African Animal Adventures Expeditions from Maun.
Grassland Safari Lodge Safaris into the Central Kalahari Game Reserve.
Mashatu Game Reserve In the Tuli Block.
Ride Botswana
(%71 671 608,
72 484 354; www.ridebotswana.com)
Based in Maun, with expeditions to the delta and Kalahari.
Uncharted Africa Out onto the salt pans of Makgadikgadi.
Mokoro Trips
Travelling around the channels of the Okavango Delta in a mokoro is a wonderful experience that is not to be missed. The mokoro is poled along the waterways by a skilled poler, much like an African gondola. Although you won’t be spotting much wildlife from such a low viewpoint, it’s a great way to appreciate the delta’s birdlife and gain an appreciation, hopefully from a distance, of the formidable bulk of hippos.
Motorboat & Fishing Trips
The only two places where motorboats can operate for wildlife cruises and fishing trips are along the Okavango and Chobe Rivers.
For fishing, the only stretches of water to consider are the deep and fast-flowing waters of the Okavango Panhandle. The most popular form of freshwater fishing is fly-fishing for tigerfish, although pike, barbel (catfish) and bream are also plentiful. Tigerfish season runs from September to June, while barbel are present from mid-September to December.
Quad Bikes
Some lodges in the Makgadikgadi Pans area in northeastern Botswana offer trips across the expansive salt pans on four-wheeled quad bikes, also called ATVs (all-terrain vehicles). These are safe to drive, require no experience, do not need a car or motorbike licence and are great fun. Most operators are reputable, but sadly in recent years some travellers have begun to bring their own quad bikes to Botswana, where they criss-cross the pans with little concern for the wildlife or fragile ecosystems of the area.
Scenic Flights
A scenic flight of fancy in a light aircraft or helicopter high above the Okavango Delta is a thrilling activity. These can be arranged either in Maun directly with the operator or through your accommodation.
Children
Botswana can be a challenging destination for families travelling with children. That’s primarily because the distances here can be epic and long days in the vehicle on bumpy trails will test the patience of most kids. It’s also worth remembering that many upmarket lodges and safari companies won’t accept children under a certain age (sometimes seven, more often 12), and those that do will probably require you to book separate game drives.
On the other hand, if you can keep the kids entertained on the long drives (bring lots of activity books, CDs and games), camping out in the wilds can be a wonderful family experience. It may require eternal vigilance – almost no private or public campsite in the country has enough fencing to keep animals out and children in, and there are the additional hazards of campfires, mosquitoes, snakes and biting/stinging insects. But long distances and these basic rules of camping life aside, a self-driving camping safari is something your kids will remember forever.
The best piece of advice we can give to get the most out of Botswana’s abundant attractions is to not be too ambitious. Instead of trying to cover the whole country, concentrate on really getting to know just one or two places over the course of a week or 10 days, thereby cutting travel times. Wildlife densities are at their highest in the north, especially in the Okavango Delta, Moremi Game Reserve and Chobe National Park. As a result, you shouldn’t need to spend too long in the car before tracking down elephants or lions.
There are lodges and safari operators that do offer family packages that can be worth checking out. Some offer specialist children’s guides and imaginative activity programs, which might include things like making paper from elephant dung! One of the better ones is Young Explorers offered by Great Plains Conservation (http://greatplainsconservation.com/young-explorers), an outstanding three-day program for children. From the Wilderness Safaris portfolio, Seba Camp is considered particularly good for families.
Most lodges and tented camps also have swimming pools, which provide a fine reward for long hours spent in the car.
Although the following activities are rarely aimed at a young audience, older kids will get a kick out of quad biking in the Makgadikgadi Pans, horse-riding safaris, mokoro trips in the reedy waters of the delta or even scenic flights high above the delta. Fishing in the Okavango Panhandle might also appeal.
Practicalities
Unless you’re planning to be in Botswana for the long haul, we advise you to bring everything with you that you think you’ll need. For invaluable general advice on taking the family abroad, see Lonely Planet’s Travel with Children.
Babysitting Many lodges make a point of saying they are not babysitting agencies (in other words, your kids are your responsibility), and such agencies are otherwise extremely rare.
Car seats These may be available from car-rental firms, but you’d be better off bringing your own; there are no car seats in safari vehicles.
Changing facilities Almost unheard of.
Cots Rarely available in hotels or lodges.
Health A check-up with your doctor back home is a good idea before setting out for Botswana, but this is a comparatively safe country and medical facilities are good.
High chairs Almost nonexistent in restaurants.
Mosquito repellent Check with your doctor before setting out, as some mosquito repellents with high levels of DEET may be unsuitable for young children. Some lodges have mosquito nets; if you’re camping, consider bringing your own.
Nappies and baby food These are available from supermarkets in larger towns, but they may not be the brands you’re used to and you don’t want to find yourself in trouble if you’re in town on a Sunday or public holiday.
National park entry fees Free for children under eight and half-price for those aged from eight to 17 years of age.
ESSENTIAL DOCUMENTS
Travellers with children should be aware of recent changes regarding the documents you must carry with you while travelling through the region. The law requires that all parents arriving, transiting and departing South Africa, Namibia and Botswana must produce an unabridged birth certificate for their children, and the birth certificate must state the names of both parents. Families not in possession of these documents will be refused travel.
If one parent is travelling alone with their children, the travelling parent must carry with them an affidavit from the other (ie nontravelling) parent who is listed on the birth certificate granting their consent for the travel to take place in their absence. Where this is not possible, either a court order granting full parental responsibilities and rights, or a death certificate of the other parent, must be produced.
We have travelled across the borders of all three countries with our children on numerous occasions and although we were not always asked for these documents, we were asked for each of them at least once. Travel without them at your peril.
Custom Regulations
Most items from elsewhere in the Southern African Customs Union (SACU) – Namibia, South Africa, Lesotho and Swaziland – may be imported duty free. You may be asked to declare new laptops and cameras, but this is very rarely enforced.
Visitors may bring into Botswana the following amounts of duty-free items: up to 400 cigarettes, 50 cigars or 250g of tobacco; 2L of wine or 1L of beer or spirits; and 50mL of perfume or 250mL of eau de cologne.
The most rigorous searches at customs posts are for fresh meat products – don’t buy succulent steaks in South Africa for your camping barbecue and expect them to be allowed in.
There is no restriction on currency, though you may need to declare any pula or foreign currency you have on you when entering or leaving the country. This depends on the border crossing and who is on duty.
Dangers & Annoyances
Botswana is modern and developed, and most things work. You can safely drink the tap water in the towns and cities, and you do not need protection against cholera or yellow fever.
HIV/AIDS is a serious issue but, unless you fail to take common-sense precautions, there should be no undue risk. In fact, the greatest danger to the traveller is posed by wildlife and the risks of driving in the bush.
Crime
Crime is rarely a problem in Botswana, and doesn't usually extend beyond occasional pickpocketing and theft from parked cars. Gaborone is one of Africa's safer cities, but it still pays to take a taxi after dark.
Police & Military
Although police and veterinary roadblocks, bureaucracy and bored officials may be tiresome, they’re mostly harmless. Careful scrutiny is rare, but you may have to unpack your luggage for closer inspection at a border or veterinary checkpoint.
The Botswana Defence Force (BDF), on the other hand, takes its duties seriously and is best not crossed. The most sensitive base, which is operated jointly with the US government, lies in a remote area off the Lobatse road, southwest of Gaborone. Don’t stumble upon it accidentally! Also avoid State House, the official residence of the president in Gaborone, especially after dark. It’s located near the government enclave, where there’s not much else going on in the evening, so anyone caught ‘hanging around’ is viewed suspiciously.
Road Safety
Although vehicle traffic is light on most roads outside of the major towns and cities, the most significant concern for most travellers is road safety. Botswana has one of the highest accident rates per capita in the world, and drunk and reckless driving are common, especially at month’s end (wage day). Cattle, goats, sheep, donkeys and even elephants are deadly hazards on the road, especially at dusk and after dark when visibility is poor. Never drive at night unless you absolutely have to.
GOVERNMENT TRAVEL ADVICE
The following government websites offer travel advisories and information for travellers.
AAustralian Department of Foreign Affairs & Trade (www.smartraveller.gov.au)
ACanadian Department of Foreign Affairs & International Trade (www.voyage.gc.ca)
AFrench Ministère des Affaires Étrangères et Européennes (www.diplomatie.gouv.fr/fr/conseils-aux-voyageurs)
AItalian Ministero degli Affari Esteri (www.viaggiaresicuri.mae.aci.it)
ANew Zealand Ministry of Foreign Affairs & Trade (www.safetravel.govt.nz)
AUK Foreign & Commonwealth Office (www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice)
AUS Department of State (www.travel.state.gov)
Discount Cards
There is no uniformly accepted discount-card scheme in Botswana, but a residence permit entitles you to claim favourable residents’ rates at hotels. Hostel cards are of little use, but student cards score a discount (usually around 15%) on some buses. Seniors over 60, with proof of age, also receive a discount on some buses and airfares.
EATING PRICE RANGES
The following price ranges refer to a main course.
$ less than US$10
$$ US$10–20
$$$ more than US$20
Embassies & High Commisions
Most diplomatic missions are in Gaborone. Many more countries (such as Australia and New Zealand) have embassies or consulates in South Africa.
France (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %368
0800; www.ambafrance-bw.org;
761 Robinson Rd,
Gaborone; h8am-4pm
Mon-Fri)
Germany (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %395
3143; www.gaborone.diplo.de;
Queens Rd, Gaborone; h9am-noon
Mon-Fri)
Namibia (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %390
2181; namibhc@info.bw; Plot 186,
Morara Close, Gaborone;
h7.30am-1pm
& 2-4.30pm Mon-Fri)
South Africa (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %390
4800; sahcgabs@botsnet.bw;
29 Queens Rd,
Gaborone; h8am-noon
& 1.30-4.30pm Mon-Fri)
UK (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %395
2841; www.gov.uk/government/world/botswana;
Queens Rd, Gaborone; h8am-4.30pm
Mon-Thu, to 1pm Fri)
US ( MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %395
3982; http://botswana.usembassy.gov;
Embassy Dr, Government Enclave,
Gaborone; h7.30am-5pm
Mon-Thu, to 1.30pm Fri)
Zambia (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %395
1951; zamhico@work.co.bw;
Plot No 1118, Queens Rd, The Mall,
Gaborone; h8.30am-12.30pm & 2-4.30pm
Mon-Fri)
Zimbabwe (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %391
4495; www.zimgaborone.gov.zw;
Plot 8850, Orapa Close, Government
Enclave, Gaborone;
h8am-1pm &
2-4.30pm Mon-Fri)
Insurance
Two words: get some! A travel-insurance policy to cover theft, loss and medical problems is a very sensible precaution. Worldwide travel insurance is available at www.lonelyplanet.com/travel-insurance. You can buy, extend and claim online anytime – even if you’re already on the road.
Medical cover is the most vital element of any policy, but make sure you check the small print.
Some policies specifically exclude ‘dangerous activities’, which can even include motorcycling and trekking. If such activities are on your agenda you’ll need a fully comprehensive policy, which may be more expensive. Using a locally acquired motorcycle licence may not be valid under your policy.
You may prefer a policy that pays doctors or hospitals direct rather than you having to pay on the spot and claim later. If you have to claim later, make sure you keep all documentation.
Some policies ask you to call back (reverse charges) to a centre in your home country, where an immediate assessment of your problem is made.
Check that the policy covers ambulances or an emergency flight home.
Internet Access
ACyber cafes Common in large and medium-sized towns; connection speeds fluctuate wildly.
APost offices Some post offices, including in Kasane, have a few internet-enabled PCs.
AWireless Reasonably common in midrange and top-end hotels in towns, but very rarely available in safari lodges.
LGBT Travellers
Homosexuality, both gay and lesbian, is illegal in Botswana. Article 164 of Botswana's Penal Code prescribes a maximum seven-year prison term for 'carnal knowledge…against the order of nature'. While arrests are rare, Botswana's High Court ruled on a case involving two gay men in July 2003. The court found that ‘the time has not yet arrived to decriminalise homosexual practices even between consenting adult males in private’.
Intolerance has increased in the region over the last few years due to the homophobic statements of leaders in neighbouring Namibia and Zimbabwe. When asked in 2011 about a plan to distribute condoms to prisoners engaged in same-sex sexual activity, the deputy speaker of the Botswana National Assembly, Pono Moatlhodi, suggested that were he to have the power, he would have homosexuals killed.
And yet the situation is more nuanced than it may first appear. Botswana's employment laws forbid workplace discrimination or dismissal on the basis of a person's sexual orientation, while Botswana's former president, Festus Mogae, told the BBC in 2011 that prejudice against gays and lesbians was harming the country's fight against HIV/AIDS. He also said that he had, while in office, directed police to neither harass nor arrest gays and lesbians. Gay and lesbian people with whom we spoke in Botswana suggested that the situation, at least in Gaborone, is relatively relaxed and that they were able live quite openly as gays and lesbians.
Even so, given the sensitivity of the subject and the strongly held views of many Batswana, it is advisable to refrain from any overt displays of affection in public.
Organisations
In 1998 a group of lesbians, gays and
bisexuals established the advocacy and support group LeGaBiBo (Lesbians,
Gays and Bisexuals of Botswana; MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%393
2516; http://legabibo.wordpress.com;
5062 Medical Mews,
Fairgrounds). The first
thing it did was to publish a human-rights charter under the
auspices of Ditshwanelo, the Botswana Centre for Human Rights, and
it has since run safe-sex workshops to highlight the risks of
HIV/AIDS. Ditshwanelo continues to advocate and lobby for the
decriminalisation of homosexuality.
The government registrar twice refused to register LeGaBiBo, on the grounds that the group was engaged in illegal activities and posed a threat to order in Botswana society. The decision mattered because without such registration, it would be extremely difficult for LeGaBiBo to raise money. In 2013 members of LeGaBiBo sued the Botswana government and, a year later, won the case before the High Court, which ruled that LeGaBiBo must be registered. The government appealed and in 2016 the Court of Appeal ruled in favour of LeGaBiBo on the basis that any refusal to register the group was unconstitutional.
Useful Resources
Afriboyz (www.afriboyz.com/Homosexuality-in-Africa.html) Links to gay topics in an African context.
African Horizons (www.africanhorizons.com) Gay-friendly tour operator that offers trips to Southern Africa, including Botswana.
David Tours (www.davidtravel.com) Can arrange seven- and 12-day trips to northern Botswana, all with a gay focus.
Global Gayz (www.globalgayz.com/africa/botswana) Links to gay issues in Botswana and other African countries.
Via Origins A LGBT-friendly safari operator who is also a good one-stop shop for information on Maun and wider Botswana activities.
Maps
The best paper map of Botswana is the Botswana (1:1,000,000) map published by Tracks4Africa (www.tracks4africa.co.za). Updated every couple of years using detailed traveller feedback, the map is printed on tear-free, waterproof paper and includes distances and estimated travel times. Used in conjunction with Tracks4Africa's unrivalled GPS maps, it’s far and away the best mapping product on the market. Even so, be aware that, particularly in the Okavango Delta, last year’s trails may this year be underwater, depending on water levels, so these maps should never be a substitute for expert local knowledge.
If for some reason you are unable to get hold of the Tracks4Africa map, the only other maps that we recommend are those published by Shell Oil Botswana and Veronica Roodt. The Shell Tourist Map of Botswana (1:1,750,000) is available at major bookshops in Botswana and South Africa.
Probably of more interest are Shell’s zoomed-in maps (with varying scales) of the various reserves and other popular areas. These include numerous GPS coordinates for important landmarks and the tracks are superimposed onto satellite images of the area in question. Some are a little out of date, but they’re still excellent. Titles include Okavango Delta, Chobe National Park, Moremi Game Reserve and Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park.
TRACKS4AFRICA ERRORS
We're huge fans of the Tracks4Africa (T4A) paper and GPS maps. We simply couldn't travel around Botswana without them, or at least can't imagine doing so without getting lost. But, of course, nothing is perfect, and we noticed a number of errors on our most recent trip – they may or may not have been corrected by the time you read this.
Another issue can sometimes be routes that appear more direct but actually take longer. For example, T4A prefers to send you via the Khumaga Ferry or across the pans if you're travelling from somewhere like Jack's Camp or Tree Island Campsite to the Central Kalahari Game Reserve (CKGR), when, in fact, the quickest route involves returning to the Gweta–Maun road and taking the sealed-road options from there. If this happens, or if you suspect that T4A may not be suggesting the best route, set a waystation (eg Gweta in the above example) and then recalibrate as you go.
In each of the following cases, we have provided detailed driving instructions to compensate for T4A errors:
AMotopi Campsites, CKGR The T4A locations for the three campsites remain incorrect.
ATree Island Campsite, Makgadikgadi Pans National Park Makes no appearance on the T4A GPS system.
AKalahari Plains Camp, CKGR The quickest trail from Deception Valley does not appear on the T4A GPS – it'll have you taking an impossibly indirect route.
Money
There are ATMs in major towns. Credit cards are accepted in most top-end hotels, but lodges and tour operators require advance payment by bank transfer. Otherwise, bring US dollars in cash.
ATMs
Credit cards can be used in ATMs displaying the appropriate sign, or to obtain cash advances over the counter in many banks – Visa and MasterCard are among the most widely recognised. Transaction fees can be prohibitive and usually apply per transaction rather than by the amount you’re withdrawing – take out as much as you can each time. Check also with your bank before leaving home to see if some banks have agreements with your home bank that work out cheaper than others.
You’ll find ATMs at all the main bank branches throughout Botswana, including in Gaborone, Maun, Francistown and Kasane, and this is undoubtedly the simplest (and safest) way to handle your money while travelling.
Cash
The unit of currency is the Botswanan pula (P). Pula means ‘blessings’ or ‘rain’, the latter of which is as precious as money in this largely desert country. Notes come in denominations of P10, P20, P50 and P100, and coins (thebe, or ‘shield’) are in denominations of 5t, 10t, 25t, 50t, P1, P2 and P5.
Most common foreign currencies can be exchanged, but not every branch of every bank will do so. Therefore it’s best to stick to US dollars, euros, UK pounds and South African rand, which are all easy to change.
Foreign currency, typically US dollars, is also accepted by a number of midrange and top-end hotels, lodges and tour operators. South African rand can also be used on Botswanan combis (minibuses) and buses going to/from South Africa, and to pay for Botswanan vehicle taxes at South Africa–Botswana borders.
Most banks and foreign-exchange offices won’t touch Zambian kwacha and (sometimes) Namibian dollars; in border areas you can sometimes pay at some businesses with the latter. To make sure you don’t get caught out, buy/sell these currencies at or near the respective borders.
There are five commercial banks in the country with branches in all the main towns and major villages. Although you will get less favourable rates at a bureau de change, they are a convenient option if the lines at the banks are particularly long.
There is no black market in Botswana. Anyone offering to exchange money on the street is doing so illegally and is probably setting you up for a scam, the exception being the guys who change pula for South African rand in front of South Africa–bound minibuses – locals use their services, so they can be trusted.
For current exchange rates, log on to www.xe.com.
Credit/Debit Cards
All major credit cards, especially Visa and MasterCard, but also American Express and Diners Club, are widely accepted in most shops, restaurants and hotels (but only in some petrol stations).
Major branches of Barclays Bank and Standard Chartered Bank also deal with cash advances over the counter and don’t charge commissions for Visa and MasterCard. Almost every town has at least one branch of Barclays and/or Standard Chartered that offers foreign-exchange facilities, but not all have the authority or technology for cash advances.
Exchange Rates
| Australia | A$1 | P8.03 |
| Canada | C$1 | P7.83 |
| Europe | €1 | P11.62 |
| Japan | ¥100 | P10.05 |
| New Zealand | NZ$1 | P7.67 |
| South Africa | R1 | P0.77 |
| UK | £1 | P13.05 |
| US | US$1 | P10.47 |
For current exchange rates, see www.xe.com.
Tipping
While tipping isn’t obligatory, the government’s official policy of promoting upmarket tourism has raised expectations in many hotels and restaurants. A service charge may be added as a matter of course, in which case there’s no need to leave a tip. If there is no service charge and the service has been good, leave around 10%.
It is also a good idea to tip the men who watch your car in public car parks and the attendants at service stations who wash your windscreens. A tip of around P10 is appropriate.
Guides and drivers of safari vehicles will also expect a tip, especially if you’ve spent a number of days under their care.
Most safari companies suggest the following as a rule of thumb:
guides/drivers – US$10 per person per day
mokoro trackers and polers – US$5 each per person per day
camp or lodge staff – US$10 per guest per day (usually placed in a communal box)
transfer drivers and porters – US$3
Travellers Cheques
Travellers cheques can be cashed at most banks and exchange offices. American Express (Amex), Thomas Cook and Visa are the most widely accepted brands. Banks charge anywhere between 2% and 3% commission to change the cheques; Barclays usually offers the most efficient service and charges 2.5% commission for most brands.
As a general rule, it is preferable to buy travellers cheques in US dollars, euros or UK pounds. Get most of the cheques in largish denominations to save on per-cheque commissions.
You must take your passport with you when cashing cheques.
CHANGING MONEY AT THE BORDER
A word of warning: if you’re changing money at or near border crossings and not doing so through the banks, be aware that local businesses (sometimes bureaux de change, sometimes just shops with a sideline in currencies so that arriving travellers can pay their customs duties) usually have abysmal rates. Change the minimum that you’re likely to need and change the rest at a bank or bureau de change in the nearest large town.
Opening Hours
The whole country practically closes down on Sunday.
ABanks 8.30am–3.30pm Monday to Friday, 8.15am–10.45am Saturday
ANational parks 6am–6.30pm April to September, 5.30am–7pm October to March
APost offices 9am–5pm Monday to Friday, 9am–noon Saturday, or 7.30am–noon and 2pm–4.30pm Monday to Friday, 7.30am–12.30pm Saturday
ARestaurants 11am–11pm Monday to Saturday; some also open the same hours on Sunday
Photography
While many Batswana enjoy being photographed, others do not. The main point is that you should always ask permission and respect the wishes of the person in question. You should also avoid taking pictures of bridges, dams, airports, military equipment, government buildings and anything that could be considered strategic.
Digital memory cards, CDs and the like can be purchased in Gaborone in large malls such as Game City. They’re a bit harder to find in Maun and Kasane, but it’s possible.
Post
Botswana Post (www.botspost.co.bw) is generally reliable, although it can be slow, so allow at least two weeks for delivery to or from any overseas address.
To send parcels, go to the parcel office at the Central Post Office, fill out the customs forms and pay the duties (if required). Parcels may be plastered with all the sticky tape you like, but they must also be tied up with string and sealing wax, so bring matches to seal knots with the red wax provided.
Public Holidays
During official public holidays, all banks, government offices and major businesses are closed. However, hotels, restaurants, bars, smaller shops, petrol stations, museums and national parks and reserves stay open, while border crossings and public transport continue operating as normal. Government offices, banks and some businesses also take the day off after New Year’s Day, President’s Day, Botswana/Independence Day and Boxing Day.
ANew Year’s Day 1 January
AEaster Good Friday, Easter Saturday and Easter Monday (March/April)
ALabour Day 1 May
AAscension Day May/June, 40 days after Easter Sunday
ASir Seretse Khama Day 1 July
APresident’s Day Third Friday in July
ABotswana/Independence Day 30 September
AChristmas Day 25 December
ABoxing Day 26 December
Telephone
The operator of Botswana’s fixed-line telephone service is Botswana Telecom (BTC; www.btc.bw). Local and domestic calls at peak times start at P40 per minute and rise according to the distance. When deciding when to call, remember that prices drop by up to one-third for local and domestic calls, and 20% for international calls, from 8pm to 7am Monday to Friday, 1pm to midnight Saturday and all day Sunday. These discounts don’t apply if you use the operator.
There are no internal area codes in Botswana. The country code for Botswana is 267 and the international access code is 00.
Mobile Phones
Botswana has two main mobile-phone networks, Mascom Wireless (www.mascom.bw) and Orange Botswana (www.orange.co.bw), of which Mascom is the largest provider. All providers have dealers in most large and medium-sized towns, where you can buy phones, SIM cards and top up your credit. Government-run Botswana Telecommunications Corporation (www.btc.bw) runs the beMobile network, but its future was uncertain at the time of writing.
The coverage map for the two main providers is improving with each passing year, but when deciding whether to get a local SIM card, remember that there’s simply no mobile coverage across large parts of the country (including much of the Kalahari and Okavango Delta). That said, the main highway system is generally covered.
Most Botswana mobile numbers begin with 71, 72 or 73.
Phonecards
Telephone booths can be used for local, domestic and international calls, and can be found in and outside all BTC offices, outside all post offices and around all shopping centres and malls. Blue booths (with the English and Setswana words ‘coin’ and madi) take coins, and the green booths (with the words ‘card’ and karata) use phonecards.
Phonecards can be bought at BTC offices, post offices and some small grocery shops. Local and long-distance telephone calls can also be made from private telephone agencies, often called ‘phone shops’.
Time
Botswana is two hours ahead of GMT/UTC, so when it’s noon in Botswana, it’s 10am in London, 5am in New York, 2am in Los Angeles and 8pm in Sydney (not taking into account daylight-saving time in these countries). There is no daylight-saving time in Botswana.
Tourist Information
The Department of Tourism, rebranded in the public sphere as Botswana Tourism (www.botswanatourism.co.bw), has an excellent website and a growing portfolio of tourist offices around the country. These tourist offices don’t always have their finger on the pulse, but they can be an extremely useful source of brochures from local hotels, tour operators and other tourist services.
For information on national parks, you’re better off contacting the Department of Wildlife and National Parks.
Another useful resource is the
Regional Tourism Organisation of Southern
Africa (%in South
Africa +27 11-315 2420;
www.retosa.co.za), which promotes tourism throughout
Southern Africa, including Botswana.
There are tourist offices in the following places:
Travellers with Disabilities
People with limited mobility will have a difficult time travelling around Botswana – although there are many disabled people living in the country, facilities are very few and much of the country can be an obstacle course. Along streets and footpaths, kerbs and uneven surfaces will often present problems for wheelchair users, and only a very few upmarket hotels/lodges and restaurants have installed ramps and railings. Also, getting to and around any of the major lodges or camps in the national wildlife parks will be extremely difficult, given their remote and wild locations.
Make sure to choose the areas you visit carefully, and clearly explain your requirements to the lodge and/or safari operator when making your original enquiry. The swampy environs of the Okavango Delta will be particularly challenging for people who have special needs, although the lodges in the Kalahari and the Makgadikgadi Pans are relatively accessible, providing you are travelling with an able-bodied companion. It is also worth bearing in mind that almost any destination in Botswana will require a long trip in a 4WD and/or a small plane.
Download Lonely Planet's free Accessible Travel guide from http://lptravel.to/AccessibleTravel.
Visas
Most visitors can obtain tourist visas at the international airports and borders (and the nearest police stations in lieu of an immigration official at remote border crossings). Visas on arrival are valid for 30 days – and possibly up to 90 days if requested at the time of entry – and are available for free to passport holders from most Commonwealth countries (but not Ghana, India, Nigeria, Pakistan and Sri Lanka), all EU countries, the USA and countries in the Southern African Customs Union (SACU), ie South Africa, Namibia, Lesotho and Swaziland.
If you hold a passport from any other country, apply for a 30-day tourist visa at an overseas Botswanan embassy or consulate. Where there is no Botswanan representation, try going to a British embassy or consulate.
Tourists are allowed to stay in Botswana for a maximum of 90 days every 12 months, so a 30-day visa may be extended twice. Visas can be extended for free at immigration offices in Gaborone, Francistown, Maun and Kasane. Whether you’re required to show an onward ticket and/or sufficient funds at this time depends on the official(s).
Anyone travelling to Botswana from an area infected with yellow fever needs proof of vaccination before they can enter the country.
Volunteering
There are very few volunteering opportunities in Botswana. The community and conservation projects that exist are usually small, focused grassroots projects that simply aren’t set up for drop-in volunteers. Another factor is that Botswana is a pretty well-organised, wealthy country and the need for volunteer projects simply doesn’t exist, with the exception of NGOs working with HIV/AIDS sufferers.
Botswana Projects
Specific volunteering opportunities within Botswana at the time of writing:
Frontier Conservation Expeditions (www.frontier.ac.uk) Teaching and wildlife conservation.
Project Trust (www.projecttrust.org.uk) School teaching near Maun.
Women Travellers
In general, travelling around Botswana poses no particular difficulties for women travellers. For the most part, men are polite and respectful, and women can often meet and communicate with local men without their intentions necessarily being misconstrued. However, unaccompanied women should be cautious in nightclubs or bars, as generally most instances of hassle tend to be the advances of men who have had one too many drinks.
The threat of sexual assault isn’t any greater in Botswana than in Europe, but women should still avoid walking alone in city parks and backstreets, especially at night. Don’t hitch alone or at night and, if you can, find a companion for trips through sparsely populated areas. Use common sense and things should go well.
Dress modestly. Short sleeves are fine, and baggy shorts and loose T-shirts are acceptable where foreigners are common, but in villages and rural areas try to cover up as much as possible.
8Getting There & Away
Botswana is not the easiest or cheapest place in the world to reach by air, and some travellers prefer to enter the country overland from South Africa or, more recently, Namibia as part of a longer safari.
Flights, tours and rail tickets can be booked online at www.lonelyplanet.com/bookings.
Entering Botswana
Entering Botswana is usually straightforward provided you are carrying a valid passport. Visas are available on arrival for most nationalities and are issued in no time. If you’re crossing into the country overland and in your own (or rented) vehicle, expect to endure (sometimes quite cursory, sometimes strict) searches for fresh meat, fresh fruit and dairy products, most of which will be confiscated if found. For vehicles rented in South Africa, Namibia or other regional countries, you will need to show a letter from the owner that you have permission to drive the car into Botswana, in addition to all other registration documents.
Since May 2017 all visitors must pay a US$30 Tourism Development Levy (TDL) upon arrival, which will help fund conservation. At all border crossings you must also pay P120 (a combination of road levy and third-party insurance) if you’re driving your own vehicle. Hassles from officialdom are rare.
For a moderately useful list of the government’s entry requirements, see www.botswanatourism.co.bw/entryFormalities.php. The Tracks4Africa Botswana map has opening hours for all border crossings.
Passport
All visitors entering Botswana must hold a passport that is valid for at least six months. Also, allow a few empty pages for stamp-happy immigration officials, especially if you plan on crossing over to Zimbabwe and/or Zambia to Victoria Falls.
Air
The only scheduled flights to Botswana come from Johannesburg and Cape Town (South Africa), Victoria Falls and Harare (Zimbabwe), Lusaka and Livingstone (Zambia) and Windhoek (Namibia). No European or North American airline flies directly into Botswana, and most travellers fly into either Jo’burg or Cape Town (both of which are served by an array of international and domestic carriers) and hop on a connecting flight.
Airports & Airlines
Botswana’s main airport, Sir Seretse Khama International Airport (GBE;
GOOGLE MAP ; %391
4401; www.caab.co.bw), is located 11km north of Gaborone.
Although it's well served with flights from Jo’burg and Harare,
it’s seldom used by tourists as an entry point into the
country.
Other, more popular entry points are
Kasane Airport (BBK;
GOOGLE MAP ; %625 0133, 368
8200) and
Maun Airport.
The national carrier is Air Botswana (BP;
%390
5500; www.airbotswana.co.bw),
which flies routes within Southern Africa. Air Botswana has offices
in Gaborone, Francistown, Maun, Kasane and Victoria Falls
(Zimbabwe). It’s generally cheaper to book Air Botswana tickets
online than through one of its offices.
In addition to Air
Namibia (%in Maun 686
0391; www.airnamibia.com)
and South African Airways (%in Gaborone
397 2397; www.flysaa.com), which do fly into Botswana, the country
is served by a number of special charter flights.
Land
Botswana has a well-developed road network with easy access from neighbouring countries. All borders are open daily. It is advisable to try to reach the crossings as early in the day as possible to allow time for any potential delays. Remember also that despite the official opening hours, immigration posts at some smaller border crossings sometimes close for lunch between 12.30pm and 1.45pm. At remote border crossings on the Botswanan side, you may need to get your visa at the nearest police station in lieu of an immigration post.
Border Crossings to/from Namibia
There are five border crossings between Botswana and Namibia:
AGcangwa–Tsumkwe Little-used crossing along a 4WD-only track close to Botswana’s Tsodilo Hills.
AKasane–Mpalila Island Crossing this border is only possible for guests who have prebooked accommodation at upmarket lodges on the island.
AMamuno Remote but busy crossing on the road between Ghanzi and Windhoek.
AMohembo Connects Shakawe, Maun and the Okavango Panhandle with northeastern Namibia.
ANgoma Bridge East of Kasane, connecting to Namibia’s Caprivi Strip.
Bus
The public-transport options between the two countries are few. Going to Namibia, one option is to catch the daily combi (minibus) from Ghanzi to Mamuno (three hours) and then to cross the border on foot, bearing in mind that this crossing is about 1km long. You will then have to hitch a ride from the Namibian side at least to Gobabis, where you can catch a train or other transport to Windhoek. It’s time-consuming and unreliable at best.
Tok Tokkie
Shuttle (%in Namibia
061-300 743;
www.shuttlesnamibia.com)
makes the 12-hour Windhoek–Gaborone run, departing Windhoek at 6pm
on Wednesday and Friday, and from Gaborone at 1pm on Thursday and
Saturday. One-way fares cost N$500 and there's free wi-fi and
air-con on board.
Car & Motorcycle
Drivers crossing the border at Mohembo must secure an entry permit for Mahango Game Reserve. This is free if you’re transiting, or N$100 per person per day plus N$50 per vehicle per day if you want to drive around the reserve (which is possible in a 2WD).
From Divundu, turn west towards Rundu and then southwest for Windhoek, or east towards Katima Mulilo (Namibia), Kasane (Botswana) and Victoria Falls (Zimbabwe), or take the ferry to Zambia.
Border Crossings to/from South Africa
Gaborone is only 280km as the crow flies from Jo’burg along a good road link.
There are 14 border crossings between South Africa and Botswana. Five of these provide access of sorts from the South African side of the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, five are handy for Gaborone, and the remaining four are good for eastern Botswana and the Tuli Block.
The major crossings:
ABokspits The best South African access to the Kgalagadi Transfontier Park.
AMartin’s Drift, Zanzibar, Platjan & Pont Drift Eastern Botswana and the Tuli Block from the Northern Transvaal.
APioneer Gate Connects Gaborone (via Lobatse and Zeerust) with Jo’burg.
ARamatlabama Connects Gaborone with Mafikeng.
ATlokweng Connects Gaborone and Jo’burg via the Madikwe Game Reserve in South Africa.
Bus
Intercape
Mainliner (%397 4294, in
South Africa +27 21-380 4400; www.intercape.co.za)
runs a service from Jo’burg to Gaborone (from SAR420, 6½ hours, one
daily); while you need to get off the bus to sort out any necessary
visa formalities, you’ll rarely be held up for too long at the
border. From Gaborone, the Intercape Mainliner runs from the petrol
station beside the Mall and tickets should be booked a week or so
in advance; this can be done online.
The Mahube
Express (
GOOGLE MAP ; %396 0488, 74
236 441; www.mahubeexpress.com)
runs twice-daily services from Gaborone to Johannesburg's OR Tambo
International Airport, leaving the Square Mart close to the city
centre at 7am and 2pm. Tickets cost P300.
You can also travel between South Africa and Botswana by combi. From the far (back) end of the bus station in Gaborone, combis leave when full to a number of South African destinations, including Jo’burg (P310/R4100, six to seven hours). Be warned that you’ll be dropped in Jo’burg’s Park Station, which is not a safe place to linger. Combis also travel from Selebi-Phikwe to the border at Martin’s Drift (P52, two hours).
Public transport between the two countries bears South African number plates and/or signs on the door marked ‘ZA Cross Border Transport’.
Car & Motorcycle
Most border crossings are clearly marked, but it is vital to note that some crossings over the Limpopo and Molopo Rivers (the latter is in Botswana’s south) are drifts (river fords) that cannot be crossed by 2WD in wet weather. In times of very high water, these crossings may be closed to all traffic.
Border Crossings to/from Zimbabwe
There are three land border crossings between Botswana and Zimbabwe.
AKazungula The main crossing point from Kasane to Victoria Falls.
APandamatenga A little-used backroads crossing off the road between Kasane and Nata.
ARamokgweban–Plumtree Connects Francistown with Bulawayo and Harare.
Bus
Incredibly, there is no public transport between Kasane, the gateway to one of Botswana’s major attractions (Chobe National Park), and Victoria Falls. Other than hitching, the only cross-border options are the ‘tourist shuttle’ minibuses that take about one hour and can be arranged through most hotels, camps and tour operators in Kasane. There is little or no coordination between combi companies in either town, so combis often return from Victoria Falls to Kasane empty. Most combis won’t leave Kasane unless they have at least two passengers.
Some hotels and lodges in Kasane also offer private transfers to Livingstone/Victoria Falls (from P1450, two hours). They usually pick up booked passengers from their hotels at around 10am.
From the Zimbabwean side of the border, try Backpackers Bazaar in Victoria Falls. Some hotels and hostels in Zimbabwe will arrange for your transport from the border, but you need to contact them beforehand.
Elsewhere, buses leave early to mid-afternoon from the bus station in Francistown bound for Bulawayo (P80, two hours) and Harare (P150, five hours). For anywhere else in western Zimbabwe, get a connection in Bulawayo.
To/From Zambia
River
Botswana and Zambia share one of the world’s shortest international borders: about 750m across the Zambezi River. The only way across the river is by ferry from Kazungula.
At the time of writing there was no cross-border public transport. A combi from Kasane to the border crossing at Kazungula should cost no more than P50. Once there, you’ll need to complete the formalities and take the ferry on foot. There is no regular public transport from the Zambian side of the river, although there is one combi that goes to Dambwa, 3km west of Livingstone. If you don’t have a vehicle, ask for a lift to Livingstone, Lusaka or points beyond at the ferry terminal or on the ferry itself.
Visas into Zambia cost US$50 per person for most nationalities. You'll also have to pay the Zambian road toll (US$48), carbon tax (ZMW150) and third-party vehicle insurance (ZMW487, valid for one month and payable even if you already have insurance) if you are taking a vehicle into Zambia.
If you're heading to Liuwa National Park and other places in Zambia's far west, consider crossing into Namibia at Ngoma and driving around 70km to the Namibia–Zambia border at Katima Mulilo – although it involves an extra crossing, the roads are much better on the Zambian side.
8Getting Around
Botswana’s public-transport network is limited.
ACar Hiring a vehicle is the best and most practical option.
AAir Although domestic air services are fairly frequent and usually reliable, Air Botswana (and charter flights) is not cheap and only a handful of towns are regularly served.
ABus & Combi Public buses and combis (minibuses) are also cheap and reasonably frequent, but are confined to sealed roads between towns.
Air
Air Botswana operates a limited number of domestic routes. It’s usually much cheaper to purchase tickets online through the Air Botswana website than in person at one of its offices. Sample one-way fares at the time of writing:
AGaborone–Francistown P1406
AGaborone–Kasane P2060
AGaborone–Maun P1791
AKasane–Maun P715
Children aged under two, sitting on the lap of an adult, are charged 10% of the fare and children aged between two and 12 are charged 50% of the fare. Passengers are allowed 20kg of luggage (unofficially, a little more is often permitted if the flight is not full).
Charter Flights
Charter flights are often the best – and sometimes the only – way to reach remote lodges, but they are an expensive extra cost; fares are not usually included in the quoted rates for most lodges.
On average, a one-way fare between Maun and a remote lodge in the Okavango Delta will set you back around US$150 to US$250. These services are now highly regulated and flights must be booked as part of a safari package with a mandatory reservation at one of the lodges. This is essential: you can’t simply turn up in these remote locations and expect to find a bed for the night, as many lodges are very small. Likewise, you are not permitted to book accommodation at a remote lodge in the delta without also booking a return airfare at the same time. Packages can be booked through agencies in Maun. Wilderness Air and Mack Air are the main companies.
It is very important to note that passengers on charter flights are only allowed 10kg to 15kg (and rarely 20kg) of luggage each; check the exact amount when booking. However, if you have an extra 2kg to 3kg, the pilot will usually only mind if the plane is full of passengers.
If you can’t stretch the budget to staying in a remote lodge, you can still book a flight over the delta with one of the scenic flight or helicopter companies in Maun.
Bicycle
Botswana is largely flat – and that’s about the only concession it makes to cyclists. Unless you’re an experienced cyclist and equipped for the extreme conditions, abandon any ideas you may have about a Botswanan bicycle adventure. Distances are great; the climate and landscapes are hot and dry; and, even along major routes, water is scarce and villages are widely spaced. Also bear in mind that bicycles are not permitted in Botswana’s national parks and reserves, and cyclists may encounter potentially dangerous wildlife while pedalling along any highway or road.
Bus & Combi
Buses and combis regularly travel to all major towns and villages throughout Botswana, but are less frequent in sparsely populated areas such as western Botswana and the Kalahari. Public transport to smaller villages is often nonexistent, unless the village is along a major route.
The extent and frequency of buses and combis also depends on the quantity and quality of roads. For example, there is no public transport along the direct route between Maun and Kasane (ie through Chobe National Park), and services elsewhere can be suspended if roads are flooded. Also bear in mind that there are very few long-distance services, so most people travelling between Gaborone and Kasane or Maun, for example, will need a connection in Francistown.
Buses are usually comfortable and normally leave at a set time, regardless of whether they’re full. Finding out the departure times for buses is a matter of asking around the bus station, because schedules are not posted anywhere. Combis leave when full, usually from the same station as buses. Tickets for all public buses and combis cannot be bought in advance; they can only be purchased on board.
Car & Motorcycle
The best way to travel around Botswana is to hire a vehicle. With your own car you can avoid public transport and organised tours. Remember, however, that distances are long.
You cannot hire motorbikes in Botswana and motorbikes are not permitted in national parks and reserves for safety reasons.
Driving Licence
Your home driving licence is valid for six months in Botswana, but if it isn’t written in English you must provide a certified translation. In any case, it is advisable to obtain an International Driving Permit (IDP). Your national automobile association can issue this and it is valid for 12 months.
Fuel & Spare Parts
The cost of fuel is relatively expensive in Botswana – at the time of writing it was P7.62 for petrol and P7.35 for diesel – but prices vary according to the remoteness of the petrol station. Petrol stations are open 24 hours in Gaborone, Francistown, Maun, Mahalapye and Palapye; elsewhere, they open from about 7am to 7pm daily.
Hire
To rent a car you must be aged at least 21 (some companies require drivers to be over 25) and have been a licenced driver in your home country for at least two years (sometimes five).
For further information on types of vehicles and rental companies, see the Planning a Safari chapter.
Accessories
Most 4WD vehicles from reputable companies come fully equipped with all the necessary tools and camping equipment. This should include, as a bare minimum, all kitchen and cooking equipment, gas stove, shower, bedding, GPS with Tracks4Africa loaded and a fridge/freezer. These should be included in the rental price, but always ask.
Other things worth asking for (at an additional cost) include a satellite phone and an inverter (to allow you to charge your batteries – always ask which plug is required). Some companies may also expect you to request the GPS as an extra, although this is considered standard with most rentals.
Insurance
Insurance is strongly recommended. No matter who you hire your car from, make sure you understand what is included in the price (such as unlimited kilometres, tax and so on) and what your liabilities are. Most local insurance policies do not include cover for damage to windscreens and tyres.
Third-party motor insurance is a minimum requirement in Botswana. However, it is also advisable to take damage (collision) waiver, which costs around P150 extra per day for a 2WD and about P300 per day for a 4WD. Loss (Theft) Waiver is also an extra worth having. For both types of insurance, the excess liability is about P5000 for a 2WD and P10,000 for a 4WD. If you’re only going for a short period of time, it may be worth taking out the Super Collision Waiver, which covers absolutely everything, albeit at a price.
Road Conditions
Good sealed roads link most major population centres. The most notable exception is the direct route between Kasane and Maun – a horribly corrugated gravel track – meaning that you'll need to take the long way around via Gweta and Nata. The road from Maun to Shakawe past the Okavango Panhandle is generally reasonable, but beware of potholes.
Tracks with sand, mud, gravel and rocks (and sometimes all four) – normally accessible by 2WD except during exceptional rains – connect most villages and cross a few national parks.
Most other ‘roads’ are poorly defined – and badly mapped – and should only be attempted by 4WD. In the worst of the wet season (December to February), 4WDs should carry a winch on some tracks (eg through Chobe or Moremi National Parks). A compass or, better, GPS unit with the Tracks4Africa maps loaded is essential for driving by 4WD around the salt pans of the Kalahari or northern Botswana at any time.
A JERRYCAN TRICK
If you're carrying extra fuel in a jerrycan – which we strongly advise you to do in more remote areas, including the Central Kalahari Game Reserve – there is a simple solution for getting the fuel into your tank without a funnel. Take a plastic bottle of soft drink, cut off the base with a knife and wash and dry it thoroughly. When you're ready to fill your tank, insert the drinking end of the plastic bottle into the tank and pour away. And one final thing: a 20L jerrycan filled with fuel can be very heavy, so ideally have two people holding the jerrycan while you pour.
Road Rules
To drive a car in Botswana, you must be at least 18 years old. Like most other Southern African countries, traffic keeps to the left side of the road. The national speed limit is 60km/h up to 120km/h on sealed roads; when passing through towns and villages, assume a speed limit of 60km/h, even in the absence of any signs. Mobile police units routinely set up speed cameras along major roads, particularly between Gaborone and Francistown and between Maun and Gweta – on-the-spot fines operate on a sliding scale, but can go as high as P500 if you’re 30km/h over the limit and you may be asked to pay on the spot. On gravel roads, limits are set at 60km/h to 80km/h; it’s 40km/h in all national parks and reserves.
Other road rules to be aware of:
Sitting on the roof of a moving vehicle is illegal.
Wearing seatbelts (where installed) is compulsory in the front (but not back) seats.
Drink-driving is against the law, and your insurance policy will be invalid if you have an accident while drunk.
Driving without a licence is a serious offence.
If you have an accident causing injury, it must be reported to the authorities within 48 hours. If vehicles have sustained only minor damage and there are no injuries – and all parties agree – you can exchange names and addresses and sort it out later through your insurance companies.
In theory, owners are responsible for keeping their livestock off the road, but in practice animals wander wherever they want. If you hit a domestic animal, your distress (and possible vehicle damage) will be compounded by trying to find the owner and the red tape involved when filing a claim.
Wild animals, including elephants and the estimated three million wild donkeys in Botswana, are a hazard, even along the highways. The Maun–Nata and Nata–Kasane roads are frequently traversed by elephants. The chances of hitting a wild or domestic animal is far, far greater after dark, so driving at night is definitely not recommended.
One common, but minor, annoyance are the so-called buffalo fences (officially called Veterinary Cordon Fences). These are set up to stop the spread of disease from wild animals to livestock. In most cases your vehicle may be searched (they’re looking for fresh meat or dairy products) and you may have to walk (and put additional pairs of shoes) through a soda solution and drive your car through soda-treated water.
RENTING A 4WD IN SOUTH AFRICA
Renting a 4WD in South Africa sometimes works out cheaper than doing so in Botswana. You'll also need to factor in the extra distance and time you’ll need to drive just to get into Botswana. Most South African rental companies will usually let you pick up the vehicle within Botswana itself, but this will, of course, cost extra.
Recommended South African companies include the following:
Around About Cars
(%0860 422
4022; www.aroundaboutcars.com)
Britz (%in South
Africa +27 11-230 5200;
www.britz.co.za)
Avis Safari Rentals
(%in South
Africa +27 11-387 8431;
www.avisvanrental.co.za/avis-safari-rental.aspx)
Hitching
Hitching in Botswana is an accepted way to get around, given that public transport is sometimes erratic, or nonexistent, in remote areas. Travellers who decide to hitch, however, should understand that they are taking a small but potentially serious risk. People who do choose to hitch will be safer if they travel in pairs and let someone know where they are planning to go.
The equivalent of a bus fare will frequently be requested in exchange for a lift, but to prevent uncomfortable situations at the end of the ride, determine a price before climbing in.
It is totally inadvisable to hitch along backroads, for example through the Tuli Block or from Maun to Kasane through Chobe National Park. This is because traffic along these roads is virtually nonexistent; in fact, vehicles may only come past a few times a day, leaving the hopeful hitchhiker at risk of exposure or, even worse, running out of water. One way to circumvent this problem is to arrange a lift in advance at a nearby lodge.
Local Transport
Public transport in Botswana is geared towards the needs of the local populace and is confined to main roads between major population centres. Although cheap and reliable, it is of little use to the traveller as most of Botswana’s tourist attractions lie off the beaten track.
Combi
Combis, recognisable by their blue number plates, circulate according to set routes around major towns; ie Gaborone, Kasane, Maun, Ghanzi, Molepolole, Mahalapye, Palapye, Francistown, Selebi-Phikwe, Lobatse and Kanye. They are very frequent, inexpensive and generally reliable. However, they aren’t terribly safe (most drive too fast), especially on long journeys, and they only serve the major towns. They can also be crowded.
Taxi
Licensed taxis are recognisable by their blue number plates. They rarely bother hanging around the airports at Gaborone, Francistown, Kasane and Maun, so the only reliable transport from the airports is usually a courtesy bus operated by a top-end hotel or lodge. These are free for guests, but anyone else can normally negotiate a fare with the bus driver. Taxis are always available to the airports, however.
It is not normal for taxis to cruise the streets for fares, even in Gaborone. If you need one, telephone a taxi company to arrange a pick up or go to a taxi stand (usually near the bus or train stations). Taxi companies in Gaborone include Speedy Cabs and Final Bravo Cabs. Fares for taxis are negotiable, but fares for occasional shared taxis are fixed. Taxis can be chartered – about P400 to P600 per day, although this is negotiable depending on how far you want to go.
Train
The Botswana Railways system no longer takes passengers. In case passenger services do resume, services are likely to be limited to one line running along eastern Botswana from Ramokgwebana on the Zimbabwean border to Ramatlabama on the South African border.