Welwitschia Drive

This worthwhile excursion by vehicle or organised tour is recommended if you want to see one of Namibia’s most unusual desert plants, the welwitschia. Welwitschias reach their greatest concentrations on the Welwitschia Plains east of Swakopmund, near the confluence of the Khan and Swakop Rivers, where they’re the dominant plant species.

In addition to this wilted wonder itself, Welwitschia Drive also takes in grey and black lichen fields, which were featured in the BBC production The Private Life of Plants. It was here that David Attenborough pointed out these delightful examples of plant-animal symbiosis, which burst into ‘bloom’ with the addition of fog droplets. If you’re not visiting during a fog, sprinkle a few drops of water on them and watch the magic.

Further east is the Moon Landscape, a vista across eroded hills and valleys carved by the Swakop River. Here you may want to take a quick 12km return side-trip north to the farm and oasis of Goanikontes, which dates from 1848. It lies beside the Swakop River amid fabulous desert mountains, and serves as an excellent picnic site.

The Welwitschia Drive, which turns off the Bosua Pass route east of Swakopmund, lies inside the Dorob National Park. Most often visited as a day trip from Swakopmund, the drive can be completed in two hours, but allow more time to experience this other-worldly landscape.

For an alternative take on the experience, pick up the pamphlet 'The Weltwitschia Plains – A Scenic Drive' from the NWR office in Swakopmund.

TTours

If you’ve arrived in Swakopmund by public transport, and don’t have access to a private vehicle, then consider booking a tour through a recommended operator. Central Swakop is compact and easily walkable, but you need to escape the city confines if you really want to explore the area.

Prices are variable depending on the size of your party and the length of tour. As with activities in Swakop, money stretches further if you get together with a few friends and combine a few destinations to make a longer outing.

Possible tours include the Cape Cross seal colony, Rössing Mine gem tours, Welwitschia Drive, Walvis Bay Lagoon, and various destinations in the Namib Desert and Naukluft Mountains.

The most popular operators are Charly’s Desert Tours, Namib Tours and Safaris and Turnstone Tours. With the exception of Charly’s, most operators do not have central offices, so it’s best to make arrangements through your accommodation.

If you’re interested in arranging a visit to the Mondesa township, Hafeni Cultural Tours runs a variety of different excursions that provide insight into how the other half of Swakopmunders live.

Charly’s Desert ToursADVENTURE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-404341; www.charlysdeserttours.com; Sam Nujoma Ave)

One of the most popular (and reputable) of the day- and multi-day tour operators. It offers sundowners on the dunes and excursions to the Cape Cross seal colony, Rössing Mine, the Welwitschia Drive, Walvis Bay Lagoon and the Namib Desert.

icon-top-choiceoHata Angu Cultural ToursCULTURAL

(icon-phonegif%081 124 6111; www.culturalactivities.in.na; tours from N$400; icon-hoursgifh10am & 3pm)

These four-hour tours are a refreshing change from your typical Swakop adventure. Here you'll meet an African herbalist, try homemade local dishes, drink at a local shebeen in a Swakop township and even shake hands with a chief. They can also organise sandboarding.

Swakop Tour CompanyTOURS

(icon-phonegif%081 124 2906; www.swakoptour.com; 3-/5-hr tours N$650/900)

George Erb runs these excellent natural-history excursions with an emphasis on photography. Possibilities include the five-hour Klipspringer Canyon Tour or three-hour Dunes Tour with other excursions further afield.

Swakopmund Walking ToursWALKING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-461647; www.swakopmund-stadtfuhrungen.com; per person N$300)

Billed as 'a walk through Swakopmund's history', these excellent two-hour walking tours run by Angelica Flamm-Schneeweiss give an overview of the city's history and bring it alive with colourful stories. Swakopmund Museum is the meeting point.

icon-top-choiceoTommy's Living Desert ToursWILDLIFE

(icon-phonegif%081 128 1038; www.livingdeserttours.com.na; half/full day N$700/1350)

We like this half-day tour into the nearby sand dunes in search of desert wildlife – it gives a much more intimate picture of the desert than is possible while sandboarding or quad biking. Tommy, who picks you up from your hotel, is an engaging host. If you're lucky, you'll see the Namaqua chamaeleon, Peringuey's adder (sidewinder), the sand-diving lizard and all manner of scorpions and reptiles.

Tommy also does a full-day tour.

Hafeni Cultural ToursCULTURAL TOUR

(icon-phonegif%064-400731, 081 146 6222; hafenictours@gmail.com; 4hr tour N$450)

If you’re interested in arranging a visit to the Mondesa township, Hafeni Cultural Tours runs a variety of different excursions that provide insight into how the other half of Swakopmunders live. It also offers Himba cultural tours, and day excursions to Cape Cross, Spitzkoppe and the flamingos of Walvis Bay.

Namib Tours & SafarisSAFARI, ADVENTURE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-406038; www.namibia-tours-safaris.com; cnr Sam Nujoma Ave & Nathaniel Maxuilili St)

Organises tours and safaris across southern Africa.

Ocean AdventuresWILDLIFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%081 240 6290; www.swakopadventures.com; off Strand St)

Catamaran tours to see dolphins, as well as the Cape fur seals of Pelican Point. The tours are a nice alternative to all that land-based adrenaline action.

Open Space ToursTOURS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%081 273 5330; norcoast@yahoo.com; Nathaniel Maxuilili St)

Recommended half- and full-day tours to Cape Cross and the Skeleton Coast, as well as exploration of Weltwitschia.

Rössing MineTOURS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-402046; mine tours N$60)

This mine, 55km east of Swakopmund, is the world’s largest open-cast uranium mine. Three-hour mine tours leave at 10am on the first and third Friday of each month; book at least one day in advance at the Swakopmund Museum (tours depart from here). You can also arrange a visit through most tour companies.

Uranium was first discovered here in the 1920s by Peter Louw, though his attempts at developing the mine quickly failed. In 1965, the concession was transferred to Rio Tinto-Zinc, and comprehensive surveys determined that the formation measured 3km long and 1km wide. Ore extraction came on line in 1970, but didn’t reach capacity for another eight years.

Rössing, with 2500 employees, is currently a major player in Swakopmund’s economy. The affiliated Rössing Foundation provides an educational and training centre in Arandis, northeast of the mine, as well as medical facilities and housing for its Swakopmund-based workers. It has promised that the eventual decommissioning of the site will entail a massive clean-up, but environmentalists are tempering their enthusiasm about its environmental commitments until something is actually forthcoming.

Turnstone ToursADVENTURE

(icon-phonegif%064-403123; www.turnstone-tours.com; day tours from N$1550)

Turnstone runs 4WD camping tours around Swakopmund, as well as day trips to Messum Crater, Cape Cross, Sandwich Harbour and elsewhere.

4Sleeping

Swakopmund has a number of budget hotels and hostels that are of a high standard, as well as family-run guesthouses and B&Bs. There are also a handful of attractive midrange and top-end hotels that are definitely worth the splurge.

Given Swakopmund’s chilly climate, air-conditioning is absent at most hotels, though you won’t miss it once the sea air starts blowing through your room. On the contrary, a heater is something of a requirement in the winter months when the mercury drops along the coast.

During the school holidays in December and January, accommodation books up well in advance – make reservations as early as possible.

Desert Sky BackpackersHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-402339; www.desertskylodging.com; Anton Lubowski Ave; camping/dm N$160/200, d N$650, with shared bathroom N$600; icon-internetgifi)

This centrally located backpackers' haunt is an excellent place to drop anchor in Swakopmund. The indoor lounge is simple and homey, while the outdoor picnic tables are a nice spot for a cold beer and warm conversation. Free coffee is available all day, and you’re within stumbling distance of the pubs if you want something stronger.

Swakop LodgeHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-402030; 42 Nathaniel Maxuilili St; dm/s/d N$150/450/650; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

This backpacker-orientated hotel is the epicentre of the action in Swakopmund, especially since this is where many of the adrenaline activities depart from and return to, and where many of the videos are screened each night. The hotel is extremely popular with overland trucks, so it’s a safe bet that the attached bar is probably bumping and grinding most nights of the week.

Tiger Reef CampsiteCAMPGROUND$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%081 380 6014, 064-400935; camping per site N$250, plus per person N$100)

This campsite sits right on the sand at the beach front, sheltered from the wind by lovely tamarisk trees. It’s convenient to the city centre.

Alternative SpaceGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-402713; www.thealternativespace.com; 167 Anton-Lubowski St; s/d incl breakfast from N$600/900; icon-internetgifi)

Out on the desert fringe, 800m east of town, this delightfully alternative place is run by Frenus and Sybille Rorich. The main attractions are the castle-like architecture (or 'erotic architecture' as they call it...), saturation artwork and an industrial scrap-recycling theme. Be advised that this is most definitely not a party place.

Villa WieseB&B$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-407105; www.villawiese.com; cnr Theo-Ben Gurirab Ave & Windhoeker St; dm/s/d N$185/450/650; icon-internetgifi)

Villa Wiese is a friendly and funky guest lodge occupying a historic colonial mansion complete with vaulted ceilings, rock gardens and period furniture. It draws an eclectic mix of overlanders, backpackers and independent travellers, and serves as a slightly more sophisticated alternative to other budget-oriented options in town. The nearby Dunedin Star is its overflow property, and has similar costs and atmosphere.

Dunedin Star Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-407105; www.dunedinstar.com; cnr Daniel Tjongarero & Windhoeker Sts; s/d N$490/670)

The overflow property for Villa Wiese.

Hotel Pension RapmundGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-402035; www.hotelpensionrapmund.com; 6-8 Bismarck St; s/d N$702/960, luxury r N$1404; icon-wifigifW)

Overlooking the park promenade and much better than it looks from the outside, this long-standing hotel pension has light and airy rooms that are adorned with rich woods and plenty of African and German-inspired flourishing to create an attractive accommodation spot. The location is on the money and some rooms have terrific views.

Hotel-Pension d’AvignonGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-405821; www.natron.net/tour/davignon/main.html; 25 Libertine Amathila St; s/d incl breakfast N$390/560; icon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

A great option close to town that won’t break the budget, d’Avignon is a smart, well-run guesthouse that has been recommended by travellers. Triple rooms are also available and there’s a TV lounge to collapse into in the evenings.

Sophiadale Base CampCAMPGROUND, CHALET$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-403264; www.sophiadale.org; camping N$130, 2-person rondavels N$600; d incl breakfast N$700)

Campsites here have large, shady trees and there are even sunroofs around the camping ground. Fireplaces and electrical powerpoints are big ticks, and the amenities block is scrubbed clean on a regular basis. Or if you feel like a roof over your head, upgrade to a large, solid rondavels which is basic, good value and comes with a braai area.

The camp is 12km east of town, take the turn off from the road to Windhoek.

icon-top-choiceoSea Breeze GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-463348; www.seabreeze.com.na; Turmalin St; s/d incl breakfast N$900/1285; icon-internetgifi)

This upmarket guesthouse is right on the beach about 4.5km north of town, and is an excellent option if you’re looking for a secluded retreat. Ask to see a few of the rooms, as several of them have spectacular sea views; there’s also a great family room. There’s plenty of advice available on what to see and do around town. Follow the Strand north and keep an eye out for signs.

StiltzLODGE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-400771; www.thestiltz.com; Am Zoll; s/d from N$1260/1680)

Balanced atop 3.5m-high stilts with a bird's-eye view over the coast and town, the Stiltz is unlike anywhere else in Swakopmund. The rooms vary in size and design – some are slightly cavernous, others are warm and perfectly proportioned – but it's the views that will live longest in the memory.

Swakopmund Luxury SuitesHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-463298; www.swakopmundluxurysuites.com; Tobias Hainyeko St; s/d N$975/1500; icon-wifigifW)

Classy, contemporary rooms dominate this fine, newish suites-only hotel just over a block back from the waterfront. The rooms are large and the white-linen, steely-grey aesthetic adds a sense of sophistication lacking in many other Swakopmund hotels.

DünenblickAPARTMENT$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-463979; www.selfcatering-swakopmund.com; Riverside Ave; s/d N$1000/1200; icon-wifigifW)

Ideal for families, these split-level apartments overlooking the sand and sea have kitchens, ample space and, at the very least, partial views of the sand dunes.

Prinzessin Rupprecht ResidenzHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-412540; http://en.hotel-prinzessin-rupprecht.com; 15 Anton Lubowski Ave; s/d from N$660/1080, s with shared bathroom N$370)

This place has 24 rooms, so you have a good chance of snagging accommodation here if you haven’t booked ahead. Housed in the former colonial military hospital, the hotel appeals to history buffs looking to catch a glimpse of the Swakopmund of old. The interior has been largely retained, and you can still stroll along the hospital corridors and try to picture the building’s former life.

icon-top-choiceoAtlantic VillaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-463511; www.atlantic-villa.com; Plover St; s/d N$980/1380, with sea view N$1200/1720, ste N$2100/2940)

Styling itself as a boutique guesthouse, Atlantic Villa is a stylish place. Expect clean-lined rooms decked all in white with Nespresso coffee machines; many rooms have ocean views. In the northern part of town, it's also blissfully quiet.

icon-top-choiceoSam’s Giardino HotelHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-403210; www.giardinonamibia.com; 89 Anton Lubowski Ave; s/d from N$1000/1500; icon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

Sam’s Giardino Hotel is a wonderfully personal place in the backstreets emphasising superb wines, fine cigars and relaxing in the rose garden with a friendly dog named Beethoven. There’s a lovely front garden and a lot of common areas with books, and a grotto with stacks of wine bottles. The rooms are simple but very comfortable. Book ahead for the five-course dinner (N$280) and some wine tasting (N$190).

Sam, the Swiss owner, is a delight and a mine of local information.

Hansa HotelHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-414200; www.hansahotel.com.na; 3 Hendrick Witbooi St; s/d from N$1280/1810; icon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

Swakopmund’s most established upmarket hotel bills itself as ‘luxury in the desert’. Individually decorated rooms with lofty ceilings and picture windows are tasteful and elegant, though the highlight of the property is its classic dining hall with white-glove service, bone china, sterling silver and fine crystal stemware.

Organic Square Guest HouseBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.guesthouse-swakopmund.com; Rhode Allee; s/d N$965/1565; icon-wifigifW)

Very much part of the new wave of contemporary-styled boutique hotels sweeping Swakopmund, Organic Square is close to the city centre and gets that whole minimalist sense of style down pat.

Beach LodgeHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-414500; www.beachlodge.com.na; Stint St; s/d from N$1190/1750; icon-wifigifW)

This boat-shaped place, which sits right on the sand about 1km north of town, allows you to watch the sea through your very own personal porthole; not all rooms have sea views. Rooms vary in size and amenities and some come complete with windowside bath-tubs.

Brigadoon Bed & BreakfastB&B$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-406064; www.brigadoonswakopmund.com; 16 Ludwig Koch St; s/d N$1105/1680; icon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

This Scottish-run B&B occupies a pleasant garden setting opposite Palm Beach. It recently underwent a major refurbishment, giving it stylish, contemporary rooms boasting flat-screen TVs, minibars and brand spanking new bathrooms. Each room also has its own private patio area.

icon-top-choiceoDesert Breeze LodgeLODGE$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-406236, 064-400771; www.desertbreezeswakopmund.com; off B2; s/d from N$1570/2140)

Set on Swakopmund's southern outskirts but still close to the centre, Desert Breeze has sweeping views of the sand dunes from its perch above the Swakop riverbed. The 12 luxury bungalows here are lovely, modern and comfortable but it's the views you come here for – they are, quite simply, sublime.

Strand HotelHOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-411 4308; www.strandhotelswakopmund.com; Strand St; r/ste per person from 1600/2200; icon-wifigifW)

Overlooking Palm Beach, the new Strand is the kind of upmarket hotel that the Swakopmund waterfront has been crying out for for decades; modern and professional with good service and attractive rooms. It's not that the rooms are particularly original. But they are supremely comfortable, most have sea views from their balconies and it ticks most of the boxes for business and leisure travellers alike.

Schweizerhaus HotelHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-400331; www.schweizerhaus.net; 1 Bismarck St; s/d from N$840/1360; icon-wifigifW)

Although it’s best known for the landmark institution that is Cafe Anton, the Schweizerhaus Hotel itself is also a class act. Standard but comfortable rooms benefit from fine views of the beach and the adjacent lighthouse, which lights up the sky when the heavy fog rolls in from sea.

5Eating

True to its Teutonic roots, Swakopmund’s restaurants have a heavy German influence, though there’s certainly no shortage of local seafood and traditional Namibian favourites, as well as a surprising offering of truly cosmopolitan fare. While Windhoekers might disagree, Swakopmund can easily contend for the title of Namibia’s culinary capital.

Self-caterers can head for the well-stocked supermarket on Sam Nujoma Ave near the corner with Hendrick Witbooi St. Most backpacker spots have kitchens on the premises.

Die Muschel Art CafeCAFE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%081 849 5984; off Tobias Hainyeko St, Brauhaus Arcade; snacks & light meals N$26-50; icon-hoursgifh9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5pm Sat, 10am-5pm Sun)

The size of a postage stamp and cute as a button, this fine little cafe next to the bookshop of the same name does great coffee to go with its oven-baked rolls and cupcakes. Enjoy it all at one of the tables on the pedestrianised street outside.

Raith’s GourmetCAFE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Tobias Hainyeko St; snacks & mains N$20-50; icon-hoursgifh7am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat & Sun)

Very central and convenient and open all weekend, this is a self-proclaimed bakery-deli-bistro-gelateria (though 'bistro' might be stretching it...) It’s mainly a bakery with fresh-made rolls and sandwiches for lunch, and pies and pasties. Indulge in a croissant and scrambled eggs for breakfast. There’s a good selection of meats and cheeses too if you’re self-catering or just planning a picnic.

Cafe AntonCAFE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-400331; 1 Bismarck St; light meals N$40-70; icon-hoursgifh7am-7pm)

This much-loved local institution, located in the Schweizerhaus Hotel, serves superb coffee, Apfelstrudel, Kugelhopf (cake with nuts and raisins), Mohnkuchen (poppyseed cake), Linzertorte (cake flavoured with almond meal, lemon and spices, and spread with jam) and other European delights. The outdoor seating is inviting for afternoon snacks in the sun.

icon-top-choiceo22° SouthITALIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-400380; Strand St; mains N$80-190; icon-hoursgifhnoon-2.30pm & 6-9.30pm Tue-Sun)

Inside the ground floor of the lighthouse, this atmospheric place is run by an Italian-Namibian couple who prepare Swakopmund's best (and homemade) Italian food. It's a slightly more formal option than the many pizzerias around town, and the quality of the food is similarly elevated.

icon-top-choiceoKücki’s PubPUB FOOD$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-402407; www.kuckispub.com; Tobias Hainyeko St; mains N$95-160)

A Swakopmund institution, Kücki’s has been in the bar and restaurant biz for a couple of decades. The menu is full of seafood and meat dishes alongside comfort food, and everything is well prepared. The warm and congenial atmosphere is a welcome complement to the food.

Fish DeliSEAFOOD$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-462979; www.fishdeli-swakopmund.com; 29 Sam Nujoma Ave; mains N$88-145; icon-hoursgifh9.30am-9.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-1.30pm & 6-9.30pm Sat)

Recommended by some locals as the best place for a seafood meal in town. It’s a simple but clean setup inside and importantly the fish comes straight from the water to your plate – no frozen stuff here. It also has a sushi menu.

Garden CafeCAFE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; off Tobias Hainyeko St; mains N$35-80; icon-hoursgifh8am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat, 11am-3pm Sun)

Set in a nice little garden away from the main street, Garden Cafe has open-air tables and chairs, changing specials and freshly prepared cafe food including salads, wraps and burgers (desserts are yummy too). It’s pleasantly topped off by friendly and efficient service. In winter the cafe is still in full swing with patrons huddled around tables basking in skinny shafts of sunlight.

Knitters among you will love the attached wool shop, but there's also a more standard craft shop as well.

NapolitanaITALIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-402773; 33 Nathaniel Maxuilili St; mains from N$45; icon-hoursgifhnoon-2.30pm & 5-10pm)

It's nothing special and the decor is where a mock Via Veneto meets the American Wild West, but Napolitana serves up surprisingly good pizza, pasta and desserts. A good, informal choice for families.

Swakopmund BrauhausGERMAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-402214; www.swakopmundbrauhaus.com; 22 Sam Nujoma Ave; mains N$75-125; icon-hoursgifh11am-2.30pm & 5-9.30pm Mon-Sat)

This excellent restaurant and boutique brewery offers one of Swakopmund’s most sought-after commodities, namely authentic German-style beer. And, so as not to break with tradition, feel free to accompany your frothy brew with a plate of mixed sausages, piled sauerkraut and a healthy dollop of spicy mustard.

Hansa Hotel RestaurantINTERNATIONAL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-400311; www.hansahotel.com.na; 3 Hendrick Witbooi St; mains N$100-245; icon-hoursgifh8am-9pm)

It’s hard to top history, and the Hansa Hotel is steeped in it. In the main dining hall at this classic colonial spot, you can indulge in culinary excesses and wash them down with a bottle from the extensive wine list. Lunch is served on the outside terrace while seafood and game meats are the specialities.

TugSEAFOOD$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-402356; www.the-tug.com; off Strand St; mains N$75-315; icon-hoursgifh5-10pm Mon-Thu, 6-10pm Fri, noon-3pm & 6-10pm Sat & Sun)

Housed in the beached tugboat Danie Hugo near the jetty, the Tug is something of an obligatory destination for any restaurant-goer in Swakopmund. Regarded by many as the best restaurant in town, the Tug is an atmospheric, upmarket choice for meat and seafood, though a sundowner cocktail with the angelfish burger in North African spices will do just fine.

Due its extreme popularity and small size, advance bookings are recommended.

Deutsches HausGERMAN$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-404896; www.hotel.na; 13 Luderitz St; mains lunch N$70-110, dinner N$90-160; icon-hoursgifhnoon-10pm)

The fine dining at Deutsches Haus takes place in the well-organised, upmarket country dining room or the bench seating out the front of the building. It’s one of the best-run restaurants in town, as evidenced by the attentive and professional service. German dishes are freshly prepared and quickly served.

7Shopping

Street stalls sell Zimbabwean crafts on the waterfront by the steps below Cafe Anton on Bismarck St.

Cosdef Arts & Crafts CentreARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-406122; www.cosdef.org.na; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm)

This worthy project supports local artisans and unemployed people by providing a shopfront for their work. The quality is high and the overall message, one of building sustainability in local communities, is one that deserves support. For an idea of what's available, check out https://namibiacraftcollections.wordpress.com or its Facebook page. Opening hours were in a state of flux at the time of writing, at least on weekends.

Die Muschel Book & Art ShopBOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-402874; Hendrick Witbooi St; icon-hoursgifh8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-1pm & 4-6pm Sat, 10am-6pm Sun)

Swakopmund's best bookshop, with German- and English-language books. It's great for guides and maps, and esoteric works on art and local history are also available here.

Peter’s AntiquesANTIQUES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-405624; www.peters-antiques.com; 24 Tobias Hainyeko St; icon-hoursgifh9am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm & 4-6pm Sat, 4-6pm Sun)

This place is an Ali Baba’s cave of treasures, specialising in colonial relics, historic literature, West African art, politically incorrect German paraphernalia, and genuine West African fetishes and other artefacts from around the continent.

Baraka Le AfriqueARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-405081; cnr Bismarck & Libertine Amathila Sts; icon-hoursgifh9am-6pm)

Baraka has a quirky portfolio that ranges from pith helmets and a handful of antique African maps to Tintin in the Congo clocks and modern versions of colonial nostalgia homewares.

Karakulia WeaversHOMEWARES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-461415; www.karakulia.com.na; 2 Rakotoka St; icon-hoursgifh9am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat)

This local carpet factory produces original and beautiful African rugs, carpets and wall hangings in karakul wool and offers tours of the spinning, dyeing and weaving processes.

KirikaraARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-463146; www.kirikara.com; Am Ankerplatz; icon-hoursgifh9am-1pm & 2.30-5.30pm Mon-Sat)

Handicrafts and homewares from across Africa make this shop a modern-day Aladdin's Cave of pottery, fabrics, jewellery, baskets, masks and statues and just about anything else that takes the owners' fancy. Not everything may be from Namibia, but it's guaranteed to be very desirable.

Craft MarketMARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm)

Swakopmund's artisans and souvenir sellers have gathered together here all in the one place. It's worth a wander, although the quality varies, and there are an awful lot of carved-wood giraffes.

Swakopmunder BuchhandlungBOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-402613; Sam Nujoma Ave; icon-hoursgifh8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-1pm Sat, 9.30am-12.30pm Sun)

A wide selection of literature from various genres.

8Information

Dangers & Annoyances

Although the palm-fringed streets and cool sea breezes in Swakopmund are unlikely to make you tense, you should always keep your guard up in town. Regardless of how relaxed the ambience might be, petty crime unfortunately occurs.

If you have a private vehicle, be sure that you leave it all locked up with no possessions inside visible during the day. At night, you need to make sure you’re parked in a gated parking lot and not on the street. Also, when you’re choosing a hotel or hostel, be sure that the security precautions (ie an electric fence and/or a guard) are up to your standards. Finally, although Swakopmund is generally safe at night, it’s best to stay in a group, and when possible, take a taxi to and from your accommodation.

Emergency

PolicePOLICE

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%402431, 10111)

Medical Services

Bismarck Medical Centre ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-405000; cnr Bismarck St & Sam Nujoma Ave) To visit a doctor, go to this recommended centre.

Money

There are plenty of banks in the centre of town with ATMs; try around the corner of Tobias Hainyeko St and Sam Nujoma Ave.

Bank of Windhoek ( GOOGLE MAP )

First National Bank ( GOOGLE MAP )

Swakopmunder Buchhandlung Commercial Bank ( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Post

Main post office ( GOOGLE MAP ; Garnison St) Also sells telephone cards and offers fax services.

Tourist Information

Namib-i ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-404827; Sam Nujoma Ave; icon-hoursgifh8am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm & 3-5pm Sat, 9am-1pm Sun) This tourist information centre is a very helpful resource. In addition to helping you get your bearings, it can also act as a booking agent for any activities and tours that happen to take your fancy.

Namibia Wildlife Resorts (NWR; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-402172; www.nwr.com.na; Woermannhaus, Bismarck St; icon-hoursgifh8am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri, park permits only 8am-1pm Sat & Sun) Like its big brother in Windhoek, this office sells Namib-Naukluft Park and Skeleton Coast permits, and can also make reservations for other NWR-administered properties around the country.

8Getting There & Away

Petrol StationPETROL STATION

( GOOGLE MAP )

Air

Air Namibia ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-405123; www.airnamibia.com.na) has several flights a week between Windhoek’s Eros Airport and Walvis Bay, from where you can easily catch a bus or taxi to Swakopmund.

Bus

There are twice-weekly buses between Windhoek and Swakopmund (from N$200, five hours) on the Intercape Mainliner from the company's bus stop ( GOOGLE MAP ). You can easily book your tickets in advance online.

Also consider Town Hopper (icon-phonegif%064-407223; www.namibiashuttle.com), which runs private shuttle buses between Windhoek and Swakopmund (N$270), and also offers door-to-door pick-up and drop-off service.

Finally, combis (minibuses) run this route fairly regularly, and a ride between Windhoek and Swakopmund shouldn’t cost more than N$120. Swakopmund is also a minor public-transport hub, serving various regional destinations, including Walvis Bay by combi, with fares averaging between N$25 and N$50.

Car

Swakopmund is about 400km west of Windhoek on the B2, the country’s main east–west highway. Paved roads connect Windhoek to Swakopmund and continue south to Walvis Bay, from where a predominantly gravel road continues to Sesriem, the base town for Sossusvlei. All of the above is accessible in a 2WD.

Petrol Station

Train

Very few travellers use Trans-Namib ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-298 1111; www.transnamib.com.na) trains, especially given the ease of bus travel and the fact that the trains take much longer.

The plush Desert Express ‘rail cruise’ runs to and from Windhoek.

Walvis Bay

Pop 100,000 / icon-phonegif%064

Walvis Bay (vahl-fis bay), 30km south of Swakopmund, is pleasant enough, particularly around the new waterfront development and along the esplanade. The town proper is not so compact and your own wheels make life a lot easier. It’s a good alternative to staying in Swakopmund if that city is too much of a scene for you – Walvis Bay has a far more relaxed feel to it. And the accommodation options and food choices are excellent.

Unlike Swakopmund, Walvis Bay was snatched by the British years before the German colonists could get their hands on it. As a result, Walvis Bay is architecturally uninspiring, and lacks the Old World ambience of its northerly neighbour. In marked contrast, the area around Walvis Bay is home to a number of unique natural attractions, including one of the largest flocks of flamingos in the whole of Southern Africa.

The only real port between Lüderitz and Luanda (Angola), the natural harbour at Walvis Bay is the result of the sand spit Pelican Point, which forms a natural breakwater and shelters the city from the strong ocean surge.

A TERN FOR THE WORSE

Around 90% of the world population of the tiny Damara tern, of which less than 2000 breeding pairs remain, are endemic to the open shores and sandy bays of the Namib coast from South Africa to Angola. Adult Damara terns, which have a grey back and wings, a black head and white breast, measure just 22cm long, and are more similar in appearance to swallows than to other terns.

Damara terns nest on the Namib gravel flats well away from jackals, hyenas and other predators, though their small size renders them incapable of carrying food for long distances. As a result, they must always remain near a food source, which usually consists of prawns and larval fishes.

When alarmed, Damara terns try to divert the threat by flying off screaming. Since the nest is usually sufficiently well camouflaged to escape detection, this is an effective behaviour. However, if the breeding place is in any way disturbed, the parent tern abandons the nest and sacrifices the egg or chick to the elements. The following year, it seeks out a new nesting site, but more often than not, it discovers that potential alternatives are already overpopulated by other species, which it instinctively spurns.

Over the past few seasons, this has been a serious problem along the Namib coast, mainly due to the proliferation of unregulated off-road driving along the shoreline between Swakopmund and Terrace Bay. This problem is further compounded by the fact that Damara terns usually hatch only a single chick each year. In recent years, the terns have failed to breed successfully, and if the current situation continues, they may well be extinct within just a few years.

Although the biggest risk to the Damara tern continues to be off-road drivers, the increase in tourist activities on the dunes is also taking its toll. One way of reducing the environmental impact of activities is for a company to operate in a confined area. When you’re booking through a company, inquire about its conservation policies.

History

Although Walvis Bay was claimed by the British Cape Colony in 1795, it was not formally annexed by Britain until 1878 when it was realised that the Germans were eyeing the harbour. In 1910 Britain relinquished its hold on Walvis Bay, and it became part of the newly formed Union of South Africa.

After the end of WWI, South African was given the UN madate to administer all of German South West Africa as well as the Walvis Bay enclave. This stood until 1977, when South Africa unilaterally decided to return it to the Cape Province. The UN was not impressed by this unauthorised act, and insisted that the enclave be returned to the mandate immediately. In response, South Africa steadfastly refused to bow.

When Namibia achieved its independence in 1990, Namibians laid claim to Walvis Bay. Given the strategic value of the natural harbour, plus the salt works (which produced 40,000 tonnes annually – some 90% of South Africa’s salt), the offshore guano platforms and the rich fishery, gaining control over Walvis Bay became a matter of great importance for Namibia.

In 1992, after it had become apparent that white rule in South Africa was ending, the two countries agreed that South Africa would remove its border crossings, and that both countries would jointly administer the enclave. Finally, facing growing domestic troubles and its first democratic elections, South Africa gave in, and at midnight on 28 February 1994, the Namibian flag was raised over Walvis Bay for the first time.

1Sights

Salt WorksBIRD SANCTUARY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Southwest of the lagoon is this 3500-hectare salt-pan complex, which currently supplies over 90% of South Africa's salt. As with the one in Swakopmund, these pans concentrate salt from seawater with the aid of evaporation. They are also a rich feeding ground for shrimp and larval fish. It's one of the three wetlands around Walvis Bay (along with the lagoon and Bird Island), which together form Southern Africa's single most important coastal wetland for migratory birds.

Bird IslandBIRD SANCTUARY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Along the Swakopmund road, 10km north of Walvis Bay, take a look at the offshore wooden platform known as Bird Island. It was built to provide a roost and nesting site for seabirds and a source of guano for use as fertiliser. The annual yield is around 1000 tonnes, and the smell from the island is truly unforgettable.

Bird ParadiseBIRD SANCTUARY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Immediately east of town at the municipal sewage-purification works is this nature sanctuary, which consists of a series of shallow artificial pools, fringed by reeds. An observation tower and a short nature walk afford excellent birdwatching. It lies 500m east of town, off the C14 towards Rooikop airport. As with both other local wetlands, you can expect to see flamingos.

Dune 7LANDMARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

In the bleak expanse just off the C14, 6km by road from town, Dune 7 is popular with locals as a slope for sandboarding and skiing. The picnic site, which is now engulfed by sand, has several shady palm trees tucked away in the lee of the dune.

LagoonLAGOON

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

The shallow and sheltered 45,000-hectare lagoon, southwest of town and west of the Kuiseb River mouth, attracts a range of coastal water birds and enormous flocks of lesser and greater flamingos. It also supports chestnut banded plovers and curlew sandpipers, as well as the rare Damara tern.

Rhenish Mission ChurchCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 5th Rd)

Walvis Bay’s oldest remaining building, the Rhenish Mission Church was prefabricated in Hamburg, Germany, reconstructed beside the harbour in 1880 and consecrated the following year. Because of machinery sprawl in the harbour area, it was relocated to its present site in the mid-20th century, and functioned as a church until 1966.

The HopeMONUMENT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

During the winter, rail services between Swakopmund and Walvis Bay are often plagued by windblown sand, which covers the tracks and undermines the trackbed and sleepers. This isn’t a new problem – 5km east of town on the C14, notice the embankment which has buried a section of narrow-gauge track from the last century. In front of the train station are the remains of the Hope, an old locomotive that once ran on the original narrow-gauge railway.

Both were abandoned after the line was repeatedly buried beneath 10m sand drifts. The Hope is now a national monument and stands on 6th St in front of the train station.

LookoutVIEWPOINT

( GOOGLE MAP )

A good spot for getting an overview of the bird-rich ponds.

PortHARBOUR

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-208320)

With permission from the public-relations officer of the Portnet or from the Railway Police – beside the train station near the end of 13th Rd – you can visit the fishing harbour and commercial port, and see the heavy machinery that keeps Namibia's import-export business ticking. Trust us, it's more interesting than it sounds. Don't forget to bring your passport.

Walvis Bay MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Nangolo Mbumba Dr; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Thu, to 4.30pm Fri)icon-freeF

The town museum is located in the library. It concentrates on the history and maritime background of Walvis Bay, but also has archaeological exhibits, a mineral collection and natural-history displays on the Namib Desert and the Atlantic Coast.

FLAMINGOS AT WALVIS

Lesser and greater flamingos flock in large numbers to pools along the Namib Desert coast, particularly around Walvis Bay and Lüderitz. They’re excellent fliers, and have been known to migrate up to 500km overnight in search of proliferations of algae and crustaceans.

The lesser flamingo filters algae and diatoms (microscopic organisms) from the water by sucking in and vigorously expelling water from its bill. The minute particles are caught on fine hairlike protrusions, which line the inside of the mandibles. The suction is created by the thick fleshy tongue, which rests in a groove in the lower mandible and pumps back and forth like a piston. It has been estimated that a million lesser flamingos can consume over 180 tonnes of algae and diatoms daily.

While lesser flamingos obtain food by filtration, the greater flamingo supplements its algae diet with small molluscs, crustaceans and other organic particles from the mud. When feeding, it will rotate in a circle while stamping its feet in an effort to scare up a tasty potential meal.

The greater and lesser flamingos are best distinguished by their colouration. Greater flamingos are white to light pink, and their beaks are whitish with a black tip. Lesser flamingos are a deeper pink – often reddish – colour, with dark-red beaks.

2Activities

Sea-kayaking, boat trips, birdwatching and excursions to Sandwich Harbour (56km south) are all highlights of a visit to Walvis Bay. If that's not enough action for you, try Swakopmund to the north.

Mola Mola SafarisBOATING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%081 127 2522, 064-205511; www.mola-namibia.com; Waterfront)

This professional marine-safari company offers fully customisable boating trips around the Walvis Bay and Swakopmund coastal areas, where you can expect to see dolphins, seals and countless birds. Prices are dependent on your group size and length of voyage, but the standard three-hour Marine Dolphin Cruise starts at N$620/420 per adult/child.

Sandwich Harbour 4x4TOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-207663; www.sandwich-harbour.com; Waterfront; adult/child half-day N$1100/850, full day N$1300/1050)

Sandwich Harbour 4x4 runs half- and full-day trips down to spectacular Sandwich Harbour, 56km south of Walvis Bay. It also runs an excellent full-day Sandwich Harbour and sea-kayaking combo for N$1850/1350 per adult/child.

Eco Marine Kayak ToursKAYAKING

(icon-phonegif%064-203144; www.emkayak.iway.na)

Sea-kayaking trips around the beautiful Walvis Bay wetlands and beyond are conducted by this outfit. Note that there is no central office, though bookings can be made over the phone or through your accommodation.

4Sleeping

Accommodation options are located either in the city centre, on the waterfront or at Langstrand (Long Beach), which is 10km north of Walvis Bay on the road to Swakopmund.

Self-catering is a good option in Walvis Bay with houses and apartments available both on the coast and in the city. A two-bedroom place can be found for around N$750; contact Remax ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-212451; www.remax.co.za; Sam Nujoma Ave).

Courtyard Hotel GarniHOTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-213600, 064-206252; 16 3rd Rd; s/d from N$450/550; icon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

This low-rise place in a quiet neighbourhood near the water has generous rooms that are a bit beaten around the edges – it’s comfortable enough and there are nice common areas, but it’s probably a tad overpriced in peak season (when rates are known to double) and the beds are quite small. Kitchenettes are useful for self-caterers. Guests can access the indoor heated pool and sauna.

Burning ShoreRESORT$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-207568; www.marriott.com; 152 4th St; s/d from N$1100/1800; icon-acongifaicon-swimgifs)

At the Burning Shore, a secluded retreat (managed by the Protea/Marriott Hotel chain) with only a dozen rooms, you can soak up the beauty and serenity of the adjacent dunes and the ocean. Rooms are luxurious without being pretentious, which lends a relaxed elegance and cool sophistication to the entire property. It's 15km from Walvis Bay at Longbeach/Langstrand.

icon-top-choiceoLangholm HotelHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-209230; www.langholmhotel.com; 2nd St W; s/d from N$1070/1228)

Getting consistently good reviews from travellers, the excellent Langholm sits on a quiet street a couple of blocks back from the water. It satisfies both business and leisure travellers with professional service and stylish rooms with strong colours and a contemporary aesthetic.

icon-top-choiceoOyster Box GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-249597, 064-202247; www.oysterboxguesthouse.com; cnr Esplanade & 2nd West; s N$865-1109, d N$1374-1730; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

More like a classy boutique hotel, this guesthouse is a stylish affair right on the waterfront, a short walk from Raft restaurant. Rooms are very contemporary and bedding includes crisp sheets and fluffy pillows. Helpful staff can book activities for you around town and arrange transport. A lovely choice.

Lagoon LodgeHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-200850; www.lagoonlodge.com.na; 2 Nangolo Mbumba Dr; s/d N$1090/1860; icon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

A garish yellow facade greets visitors to this French-run lodge which commands a magnificent location next to the lagoon, and features individually decorated rooms with private terraces facing out towards the sand and sea. As well as the heartfelt welcome, the free wireless and unbroken views over the water are highlights. The location on the promenade is handy for an evening/early morning walk along the waterfront.

5Eating

The Waterfront area is a development claiming a cluster of bars and restaurants right on the water overlooking the harbour and the big machinery of the port not far away. It has a very genuine feel, unlike some of its counterparts in South Africa that have suffered from over-development. There’s a small but classy selection of places to sit outside on the water’s edge and enjoy a cold drink and a meal.

Willi Probst Bakery & CafeCAFE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-202744; http://williprobstbakery.webs.com; cnr 12th Rd & 9th St; light meals N$25-60; icon-hoursgifh6.30am-3pm Mon-Sat)

If you’re feeling nostalgic for Swakopmund (or Deutschland, for that matter), take comfort in knowing that Probst specialises in stodgy German fare: pork, meatballs, schnitzel and the like, while pies and breakfast pizzas mix things up a little. A range of sweet treats ensures that it is everyone’s friend.

icon-top-choiceoAnchor @ The JettyINTERNATIONAL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-205762; Esplanade, Waterfront; breakfast/mains from N$45/75; icon-hoursgifh7.30am-10pm Tue-Sat, to 3pm Sun & Mon)

The food is good at the Anchor but the real attraction is the location overlooking the water. It makes a particularly lovely spot for breakfast, and if you’re tired of eating stodgy food, it does a pretty mean fruit salad. Later on, seafood dominates things. Sit at a table right on the water and watch the morning cruise boats slink out of the bay.

icon-top-choiceoRaftSEAFOOD$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-204877; theraftrestaurant.com; Esplanade; mains N$77-227; icon-hoursgifh11am-11pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun)

This Walvis Bay landmark sits on stilts offshore, and has a great front-row view of the ducks, pelicans and flamingos. Here you can expect high-quality meats and seafood in addition to spectacular sunsets and ocean views. The seafood extravaganza is well worth the extravagant N$367 price tag.

8Information

Emergency

Police ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%10111; cnr 11th St & 13th Rd)

Medical Services

Welwitschia Medical Centre ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 13th Rd; icon-hoursgifh24hr) For medical services.

Post

Post office ( GOOGLE MAP ; Sam Nujoma Ave) Provides public telephones and fax services.

8Getting There & Away

Air Namibia ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-203102; www.airnamibia.com.na) has around seven flights a week between Windhoek’s Eros Airport and Walvis Bay’s Rooikop Airport, located 10km southeast of town on the C14.

All buses and combis to Walvis Bay run via Swakopmund. The Intercape Mainliner stop ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) is at the Spur Restaurant on Ben Gurirab St. There are also other private bus services running between Windhoek and Walvis Bay.

Hitching isn’t difficult between Walvis Bay and Swakopmund, but weather conditions can be rough if heading for Namib-Naukluft Park or the Skeleton Coast.

Namib-Naukluft Park

Welcome to the Namib, the oldest desert on earth and certainly one of the most beautiful and accessible desert regions on the planet. This is sand-dune country par excellence, silent, constantly shifting and ageless, and an undoubted highlight of any visit to Namibia. The epicentre of its appeal is at Sossusvlei, Namibia’s most famous strip of sand, where gargantuan dunes tower more than 300m above the underlying strata. Elsewhere, the land lives up to its name: the Nama word ‘Namib’ inspired the name of the entire country and rather prosaically means ‘vast dry plain’. And then there are the Naukluft Mountains – barren and beautiful, and filled with an appeal all of their own.

The Namib-Naukluft National Park ( GOOGLE MAP ; per person per day N$80, per vehicle N$10; icon-hoursgifhsunrise-sunset) takes in around 23,000 sq km of arid and semi-arid land, and protects various areas of vast ecological importance in the Namib and the Naukluft. The park also abuts the NamibRand Nature Reserve, the largest privately owned property in Southern Africa, forming a massive wildlife corridor that promotes migratory movement.

Namib Section

While most people associate the Namib solely with Sossusvlei, the desert sweeps across most of Central Namibia, and is characterised by a large array of geological formations. Given the extremes of temperature and environment, you will need a 4WD vehicle and good navigation skills in order to properly explore the Namib. Truly, this is one place where the journey itself is worth as much, if not more, than the destination.

THE NAMIB DUNES

The Namib dunes stretch from the Orange to the Kuiseb Rivers in the south, and from Torra Bay in Skeleton Coast Park to Angola’s Curoca River in the north. They’re composed of colourful quartz sand and come in varying hues – from cream to orange and red to violet.

Unlike the ancient Kalahari dunes, those of the Namib are dynamic, which means that they shift with wind, and are continuously sculpted into a variety of distinctive shapes. The top portion of the dune, which faces the direction of migrations, is known as the slipface, and is formed as the sand spills from the crest and slips down. Various bits of plant and animal detritus also collect here and provide a meagre food source for dune-dwelling creatures, and it’s here that most dune life is concentrated.

The following is a list of the major types of dunes found in the Namib:

Parabolic dunes Along the eastern area of the dune sea (including those around Sossusvlei), the dunes are classified as parabolic or multicyclic, and are the result of variable wind patterns. These are the most stable dunes in the Namib, and therefore the most vegetated.

Transverse dunes The long, linear dunes along the coast south of Walvis Bay are transverse dunes, which lie perpendicular to the prevailing southwesterly winds. As a result, their slipfaces are oriented towards the north and northeast.

Seif dunes Around the Homeb campsite in the Namib-Naukluft Park are the prominent linear or seif dunes, which are enormous all-direction-oriented sand ripples. With heights of up to 100m, they’re spaced about 1km apart and show up plainly on satellite photographs. They’re formed by seasonal winds; during the prevailing southerly winds of summer, the slipfaces lie on the northeastern face. In the winter the wind blows in the opposite direction, which causes slipfaces to build up on the southern-western faces.

Star dunes In areas where individual dunes are exposed to winds from all directions, a formation known as a star dune appears. These dunes have multiple ridges, and when seen from above may appear to have a star shape.

Barchan dunes These dunes prevail around the northern end of the Skeleton Coast and south of Lüderitz, and are the most mobile as they are created by unidirectional winds. When shifting, barchan dunes take on a crescent shape, with the horns of the crescent aimed in the direction of migration. In fact, it is barchan dunes that are slowly devouring the ghost town of Kolmanskop near Lüderitz.

Hump dunes Typically forming in clusters near water sources, hump dunes are considerably smaller than other dune types. They are formed when sand builds up around vegetation (such as a tuft of grass), and is held in place by the roots of the plant, forming a sandy tussock. Generally, hump dunes rise less than 3m from the surface.

1Sights

Kuiseb CanyonCANYON

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

On the Gamsberg Pass route west of the Khomas Hochland, Kuiseb Canyon contains the ephemeral Kuiseb River, which is no more than a broad sandy riverbed for most of the year. Although it may flow for two or three weeks during the rainy season, it only gets as far as Gobabeb before seeping into the sand. At Rooibank, drinking water for Walvis Bay is pumped from this subterranean supply.

It was in Kuiseb Canyon that the famous geologists Henno Martin and Hermann Korn went into hiding for more than two years during WWII, as recounted in Martin’s book The Sheltering Desert. Today, the canyon’s upper reaches remain uninhabited, though there are scattered Topnaar Khoikhoi villages where the valley broadens out near the north river bank.

Hamilton HillsHILLS

The range of limestone hills known as the Hamilton Hills, south of Vogelfederberg campsite, rises 600m above the surrounding desert plains. It provides lovely desert hikes, and the fog-borne moisture supports an amazing range of succulents and other botanical wonders.

!NARA MELONS

Historically, human existence in the Namib Desert has been made possible by an unusual spiny plant, the !nara melon. It was first described taxonomically by the same Friedrich Welwitsch who gave his name to the welwitschia plant.

Although the !nara bush lives and grows in the desert, it is not a desert plant since it lacks the ability to prevent water loss through transpiration. So it must take in moisture from the groundwater table via a long taproot. As a result, !nara melons are an effective way of monitoring underground water tables: when the plants are healthy, so is the water supply. Its lack of leaves also protects it from grazing animals, although ostriches do nip off its tender growing shoots.

As with the welwitschia, the male and female sex organs in the !nara melon exist in separate plants. Male plants flower throughout the year, but it’s the female plant that produces the 15cm melon each summer, providing a favourite meal for jackals, insects and humans. In fact, it remains a primary food of the Topnaar Khoekhoen people, and has also become a local commercial enterprise. Each year at harvest time, the Topnaar erect camps around the Kuiseb Delta to collect the fruits. Although melons can be eaten raw, most people prefer to dry them for later use, or prepare, package and ship them to urban markets.

4Sleeping

The Namib-Naukluft Park has eight exclusive camps, some of which have multiple but widely spaced campsites. Sites have tables, toilets and braai pits, but no washing facilities. Brackish water is available for cooking and washing but not drinking – bring enough water. All sites must be prebooked through Namibia Wildlife Resorts (NWR) in Windhoek or Swakopmund. Camping costs N$170 per person (maximum of eight people) plus N$80/10 per person/car per day in park fees; fees are payable when the park permit is issued.

BloedkoppieCAMPGROUND$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Blood Hill; camping N$170)

These spots are among the most beautiful and popular sites in the park. If you’re coming from Swakopmund, they lie 55km northeast of the C28, along a signposted track. The northern sites may be accessed with 2WD, but they tend to be more crowded. The southern sites are quieter and more secluded, but can be reached only by 4WD.

The surrounding area offers some pleasant walking, and at Klein Tinkas, 5km east of Bloedkoppie, you’ll see the ruins of a colonial police station (basically a ruined hut) and the graves of two German police officers dating back to 1895.

Groot TinkasCAMPGROUND$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; camping N$170)

Groot Tinkas must be accessed with 4WD and rarely sees much traffic. It enjoys a lovely setting beneath shady rocks and the surroundings are super for nature walks. During rainy periods, the brackish water in the nearby dam attracts a variety of birdlife.

HomebCAMPGROUND$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; camping N$170)

Homeb is located in a scenic spot upstream from the most accessible set of dunes in the Namib-Naukluft Park, and can accommodate several groups. Residents of the nearby Topnaar Khoikhoi village dig wells in the Kuiseb riverbed to access water beneath the surface, and one of their dietary staples is the !nara melon, which obtains moisture from the water table through a long taproot.

This hidden water also supports a good stand of trees, including camel thorn acacia and ebony.

Kuiseb CanyonCAMPGROUND$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; camping N$170)

Kuiseb Canyon is a shady site at the Kuiseb River crossing along the C14 and is also a convenient place to break up a trip between Windhoek and Walvis Bay. The location is scenic enough, but the dust and noise from passing vehicles makes it less appealing than other campsites.

There are pleasant short canyon walks, but during heavy rains in the mountains the site can be flooded; in the summer months, keep tabs on the weather to make sure you don't overheat or get caught in a downpour.

MirabibCAMPGROUND$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; camping N$170)

Mirabib is a pleasant facility that accommodates two parties at separate sites, and is comfortably placed beneath rock overhangs along a large granite escarpment. There’s evidence that these shelters were used by nomadic peoples as early as 9000 years ago, and also by nomadic shepherds in the 4th or 5th century.

VogelfederbergCAMPGROUND$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; camping N$170)

Vogelfederberg is a small facility, 2km south of the C14, and makes a convenient overnight camp. Located just 51km from Walvis Bay, it’s more popular for picnics or short walks. It’s worth looking at the intermittent pools on the summit that shelter a species of brine prawn whose eggs hatch only when the pools are filled with rainwater.

The only shade is provided by a small overhang where there are two picnic tables and braai pits.

GanabCAMPGROUND$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; camping N$170)

Ganab is a dusty, exposed facility, translating to ‘Camelthorn Acacia’, that sits beside a shallow stream bed on the gravel plains. It’s shaded by hardy acacia trees, and a nearby bore hole provides water for antelopes.

Kriess-se-RusCAMPGROUND$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; camping N$170)

Kriess-se-Rus is a rather ordinary site in a dry stream bank on the gravel plains, 107km east of Walvis Bay on the Gamsberg Pass Route. It is shaded, but isn’t terribly prepossessing, and is best used simply as a convenient stop en route between Windhoek and Walvis Bay.

8Getting There & Away

The main park transit routes, the C28, C14, D1982 and D1998, are all open to 2WD traffic. However, the use of minor roads requires a park permit (N$80 per day plus N$10 per vehicle), which can either be picked up at any of the park gates or arranged in advance through NWR. While some minor roads in the park are accessible to high-clearance 2WD vehicles, a 4WD is highly recommended.

Naukluft Mountains

icon-phonegif%063 / Elevation 1973m

The Naukluft Mountains, which rise steeply from the gravel plains of the central Namib, are characterised by a high plateau bounded by gorges, caves and springs cut deeply from dolomite formations. The Tsondab, Tsams and Tsauchab Rivers all rise in the massif, and the relative abundance of water creates an ideal habitat for mountain zebras, kudus, leopards, springboks and klipspringers. In addition to wildlife watching, the Naukluft is home to a couple of challenging treks that open up this largely inaccessible terrain.

History

In the early 1890s, the Naukluft was the site of heated battle between the German colonial forces and the Nama. In January 1893 a contingent of Schutztruppe soldiers estimated that they could force the Nama to flee their settlement at Hoornkrans in three days. However, due to their unfamiliarity with the terrain, and their lack of experience in guerrilla warfare, the battle waged for months, resulting in heavy losses on both sides. Eventually, the Nama offered to accept German sovereignty if they could retain their lands and weapons. The Germans accepted, thus ending the Battle of the Naukluft.

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2Activities

Naukluft 4WD Trail Off-RoadSCENIC DRIVE

Off-road enthusiasts will love the 73km, two-day Naukluft 4WD Trail. It begins near the start of the Olive Trail and follows a loop near the northeastern corner of the Naukluft area. Accommodation is provided in one of the stone-walled A-frames at the 28km point. Facilities include shared toilets, showers and braai pits. Up to four vehicles/16 people are permitted here at a time.

Book through the NWR office in Windhoek; the route (including accommodation) costs N$280 per vehicle plus an additional N$80 per person per day.

Olive TrailHIKING

The 11km Olive Trail, named for the wild olives that grow alongside it, is one of Namibia's most popular hikes and deservedly so. It begins at the car park 4km northeast of the park headquarters. The walk runs clockwise around the triangular loop and takes four to five hours.

The route begins with a steep climb onto the plateau, affording good views of the Naukluft Valley. It then turns sharply east and descends a constricted river valley, which becomes deeper and steeper and makes a couple of perfect U-turns before it reaches a point where hikers must traverse a canyon wall – past a pool – using anchored chains. In several places along this stretch, the dramatic geology presents an astonishing gallery of natural artwork. Near the end of the route, the trail strikes the Naukluft 4WD route and swings sharply south, where it makes a beeline back to the car park.

Waterkloof TrailHIKING

This lovely 17km anticlockwise loop takes about seven hours to complete, and begins at the Naukluft (Koedoesrus) campsite, located 2km west of the park headquarters. The trail traverses a lovely range of landscapes and habitats, from riverbank to canyon, plateau to rocky ridge.

It climbs the Naukluft River and past a frog-infested weir (don’t miss the amazing reed tunnel!) and a series of pools, which offer cool and refreshing drinking and swimming. About 1km beyond the last pool, the trail then turns west, away from the Naukluft River and up a kloof (ravine). From there to the halfway point, the route traverses an increasingly open plateau.

Shortly after the halfway mark, the trail climbs steeply to a broad 1910m ridge, which is the highest point on the route. Here you’ll have fabulous desert views before you begin a long, steep descent into the Gororosib Valley. Along the way, you’ll pass several inviting pools full of reeds and tadpoles, and climb down an especially impressive waterfall before meeting up with the Naukluft River. Here, the route turns left and follows the 4WD track back to the park headquarters.

Four- & Eight-Day Loops

The two big loops through the massif can be hiked in four and eight days. For many people the Naukluft is a magical place, but its charm is more subtle than that of Fish River Canyon in southern Namibia. For example, some parts are undeniably spectacular, such as the Zebra Highway, Ubusis Canyon and Die Valle (look for the fantastic stallion profile on the rock beside the falls). However, a couple of days involve walking in relatively open country or along some maddeningly rocky riverbeds.

The four-day 60km loop is actually just the first third of the eight-day 120km loop, combined with a 22km cross-country jaunt across the plateau back to park headquarters. It joins up with the Waterkloof Trail at its halfway point, and follows it the rest of the way back to park headquarters. Alternatively, you can finish the four-day route at Tsams Ost Shelter, midway through the eight-day loop, where a road leads out to the Sesriem-Solitaire Rd. However, you must prearrange to leave a vehicle there before setting off from park headquarters. Note that hikers may not begin from Tsams Ost without special permission from the rangers at Naukluft.

These straightforward hikes are marked by white footprints (except those sections that coincide with the Waterkloof Trail, which is marked with yellow footprints). Conditions are typically hot and dry, and water is only reliably available at overnight stops (at Putte, it’s 400m from the shelter).

To shorten the eight-day hike to seven days, it’s possible to skip Ubusis Canyon by turning north at Bergpos and staying the second night at Adlerhorst. Alternatively, very fit hikers combine the seventh and eighth days.

In four places – Ubusis Canyon, above Tsams Ost, Die Valle and just beyond Tufa Shelter – hikers must negotiate dry waterfalls, boulder-blocked kloofs and steep tufa formations with the aid of chains. Some people find this off-putting, so be sure you’re up to it.

HIKING PRACTICALITIES

Most Naukluft visitors come to hike either the Waterkloof or Olive Trails. These hikes are open to day visitors, but most hikers want to camp at Naukluft (Koedoesrus), which must be prebooked.

The four-day and eight-day loops have more restrictions attached. Thanks to stifling summer temperatures and potentially heavy rains, these two are only open from 1 March to the third Friday in October. Officially, you can only begin these hikes on the Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday of the first three weeks of each month. The price of N$100 per person includes accommodation at the Hikers’ Haven hut on the night before and after the hike, as well as camping at trailside shelters and the Ubusis Canyon Hut. In addition, you’ll have to pay N$80 per person per day and another N$10 per day for each vehicle you leave parked. Groups must comprise three to 12 people.

Due to the typically hot, dry conditions and the lack of reliable natural water sources, you must carry at least 3L to 4L of water per person per day, as well as food and emergency supplies.

4Sleeping

icon-top-choiceoTsauchab River CampCAMPGROUND$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%063-293416; www.tsauchab.com; campsites N$150, plus per adult/child N$110/65, s/d chalets N$760/1400; icon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

If you’re an avid hiker (or just love excellent settings!), you’re in for a treat. The scattered campsites here sit beside the Tsauchab riverbed – one occupies a huge hollow tree – and each has a private shower block, a sink and braai area. The stone-built chalets grow in number with each passing year; also down in the riverbed, they're lovely and quiet.

Johan and Nicky are warm and welcoming hosts and Johan's eclectic sculptures, mostly from old car engine parts, are a real feature of this place. Activities include self-guided hikes and 4WD trails. The 6km Kudu Hiking Trail climbs to the summit of Rooikop. Beside a spring 11km away from the main site is the 4WD exclusive site, which is the starting point for the wonderful 21km Mountain Zebra Hiking Trail.

icon-top-choiceoZebra River LodgeLODGE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-301934; www.zebra-river-lodge.com; s/d with full board from N$1275/1610; icon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

Occupying a magical setting in the Tsaris Mountains, this is Rob and Marianne Field’s private Grand Canyon. Go for one of the more expansive rock chalets – you'll feel like you're sleeping inside the mountain and they're some of Namibia's more original rooms.

The surrounding wonderland of desert mountains, plateaus, valleys and natural springs is accessible on a network of hiking trails and 4WD tracks. If you take it very slowly, the lodge road is accessible by 2WD vehicles.

Büllsport Guest FarmFARMSTAY$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%063-693371; www.buellsport.com/main.html; s/d with half board from N$1780/3150)

This scenic farm, owned by Ernst and Johanna Sauber, occupies a lovely, austere setting below the Naukluft Massif, and features a ruined colonial police station, the Bogenfels arch and several resident mountain zebras. A highlight is the 4WD excursion up to the plateau and the hike back down the gorge, past several idyllic natural swimming pools. There are also horse-riding trails.

8Getting There & Away

The Naukluft is best reached via the C24 from Rehoboth and the D1206 from Rietoog; petrol is available at Büllsport and Rietoog. From Sesriem, 103km away, the nearest access is via the dip-ridden D854.

Sesriem & Sossusvlei

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Appropriate for this vast country with its epic landscapes – its number one tourist attraction – Sossusvlei still manages to feel isolated. The dunes, appearing other-worldly at times, especially when the light hits them just so near sunrise, are part of the 32,000 sq km sand sea that covers much of the region. The dunes reach as high as 325m, and are part of one of the oldest and driest ecosystems on earth. However, the landscape here is constantly changing – wind forever alters the shape of the dunes, while colours shift with the changing light, reaching the peak of their brilliance just after sunrise.

The gateway to Sossusvlei is Sesriem (Six Thongs), which was the number of joined leather ox-wagon thongs necessary to draw water from the bottom of the nearby gorge. Sesriem remains a lonely and far-flung outpost, home to little more than a petrol station and a handful of tourist hotels and lodges.

2Activities

Namib Sky Balloon SafarisBALLOONING

(icon-phonegif%063-683188, 081 304 2205; www.namibsky.com; per person from N$5950)

Floating over the dunes in a hot air balloon (prices include a champagne breakfast) is a breathtaking way to appreciate the stunning landscape. Pickups a half-hour before sunrise are arranged at many accommodation places in the area.

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1Sights

icon-top-choiceoSossusvleiPAN

( GOOGLE MAP ; round trip N$100)

Sossusvlei, a large ephemeral pan, is set amid red sand dunes that tower up to 325m above the valley floor. It rarely contains any water, but when the Tsauchab River has gathered enough volume and momentum to push beyond the thirsty plains to the sand sea, it’s completely transformed. The normally cracked dry mud gives way to an ethereal blue-green lake, surrounded by greenery and attended by aquatic birdlife, as well as the usual sand-loving gemsbok, and ostriches.

This sand probably originated in the Kalahari between three and five million years ago. It was washed down the Orange River and out to sea, where it was swept northward with the Benguela Current to be deposited along the coast. The best way to get the measure of this sandy sprawl is to climb a dune, as most people do. And of course, if you experience a sense of déjà vu here, don’t be surprised – Sossusvlei has appeared in many films and advertisements worldwide, and every story ever written about Namibia features a photo of it.

At the end of the 65km 2WD road from Sesriem is the 2WD car park; only 4WDs can drive the last 4km into the Sossusvlei Pan itself. Visitors with lesser vehicles park at the 2WD car park and walk, hitch or catch the shuttle to cover the remaining distance. If you choose to walk, allot about 90 minutes, and carry enough water for a hot, sandy slog in the sun.

icon-top-choiceoDeadvleiNATURAL FEATURE

( GOOGLE MAP )

Although it's much less famous than its neighbour Sossusvlei, Deadvlei is actually the most alluring pan in the Namib-Naukluft National Park – it's arguably one of Southern Africa's greatest sights. Sprouting from the pan are seemingly petrified trees, with their parched limbs casting stark shadows across the baked, bleached white canvas. The juxtaposition of this scene with the cobalt-blue skies and the towering orange sands of Big Daddy, the area's tallest dune (325m), is simply spellbinding.

It's an easy 3km return walk from the Deadvlei/Big Daddy Dune 4WD parking area – follow the waymarker posts.

icon-top-choiceoHidden VleiNATURAL FEATURE

( GOOGLE MAP )

This unearthly dry vlei (low, open landscape) amid lonely dunes makes a rewarding excursion. It's a 4km return hike from the 2WD car park. The route is marked by white-painted posts. It’s most intriguing in the afternoon, when you’re unlikely to see another person.

icon-top-choiceoSesriem CanyonCANYON

( GOOGLE MAP )

The 3km-long, 30m-deep Sesriem Canyon, 4km south of the Sesriem headquarters, was carved by the Tsauchab River through the 15-million-year-old deposits of sand and gravel conglomerate. There are two pleasant walks: you can hike upstream to the brackish pool at its head or 2.5km downstream to its lower end. Check out the natural sphinxlike formation on the northern flank near the canyon mouth.

Dune 45VIEWPOINT

( GOOGLE MAP )

The most accessible of the large red dunes along the Sossusvlei road is Dune 45, so-called because it’s 45km from Sesriem. It rises over 150m above the surrounding plains, and is flanked by several scraggly and often photographed trees.

Elim DuneVIEWPOINT

( GOOGLE MAP )

This often visited red dune, 5km north from the Sesriem Camp Site, can be reached with 2WD vehicles, but also makes a pleasant morning or afternoon walk. The park authorities suggest that this is the best place to watch the sunset – for the views of the actual sunset, rather than the surrounding dunes.

4Sleeping

Advanced reservations are essential, especially during the high season, school holidays and busy weekends. For an overview of accommodation options in the area, visit Sossusvlei Accommodation (www.sossusvlei.org/accommodation).

Sossus Oasis CampsiteCAMPGROUND$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%063-293632; www.sossus-oasis.com; camping N$180)

Nicer than the main Sesriem Camp Site but outside the main gate, Sossus Oasis has an on-site petrol station, kiosk, restaurant and decent if dusty sites with good shade and a private ablutions block for each site.

Sesriem Camp SiteCAMPGROUND$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-2857200; www.nwr.com.na/resorts/sesriem-camp; camping N$200)

With the exception of the upmarket Sossus Dune Lodge, this is the only accommodation inside the park gates – staying here guarantees that you will be able to arrive at Sossusvlei in time for sunrise. The campsite is rudimentary – sandy sites with bins, taps, and trees for shade – and expensive for what you get. It can also get really noisy which defeats the purpose of why you came out here.

But you pay for the location inside the park. Given its popularity, you must book in advance at the NWR office in Windhoek, and arrive by sunset or the camp staff will reassign your site on a standby basis. A small shop at the office here sells snacks and cold drinks, and the campsite bar provides music and alcohol nightly.

Desert CampTENTED CAMP$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%063-683205; www.desertcamp.com; s with half board N$1482-1695, d with half board N$2224-2508; icon-swimgifs)

The sister property of the Sossusvlei Lodge, located 3km outside the park gate, targets midrange travellers who want the comforts of a lodge without having to part with too much cash. Desert Camp consists of 20 East African–style canvas tents, complete with private bathrooms, kitchenettes and braai pits, which fan out from the central communal area.

Desert Quiver CampLODGE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%081 330 6655; www.desertquivercamp.com; s with half board N$1419-1587, d with half board N$2142-2364)

Lined up across the desert 5km from the park entrance off the road in from Solitaire, Desert Quiver Camp has striking A-frame chalets that are nicely turned out, but they could benefit from a few more windows to really make you feel a part of the desert. Meals are at the nearby Sossusvlei Lodge, but self-catering rates are also available.

icon-top-choiceoLittle KulalaLODGE$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-225178; www.wilderness-safaris.com; s/d all-inclusive Jun-Oct N$13,480/20,750, rates vary rest of year)

Part of Wilderness Safaris' Classic portfolio, Little Kulala is simply stunning. Expansive rooms, each with their own plunge pools, watch over rippling sands and silhouetted desert trees with the sand sea dominating the view not far away. Meals are outstanding, there's a well-stocked wine cellar, the public areas are gorgeous and the whole effect is of a near-perfect sophisticated oasis.

Activities include excursions into the sand sea, but this is one place where we recommend leaving enough time to simply enjoy the surrounds. And by night, the stars out here are utterly extraordinary.

Kulala Desert LodgeLODGE$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-225178; www.wilderness-safaris.com; s/d all-inclusive Jun-Oct N$6510/11,270, rates vary rest of year)

If you've stayed in a Wilderness Safaris lodge before, you know the deal. If you haven't, you're in for a treat. Semiluxurious canvas tents and great food are just the start, as the whole property faces off towards the sand dunes in the middle distance. It's close enough to the park entrance for a quick arrival but far enough away to feel like you're kilometres from anywhere.

Le Mirage Desert LodgeHOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%063-693019; www.mirage-lodge.com; s/d with half board N$2950/4500; icon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

Some places like to blend in with their surroundings. Then there's La Mirage... This extravagent stone mock-castle does indeed rise like a mirage out of the desert. The whole affair is over the top, but it’s a very comfortable place to stay, with pool, grass and sunbeds set around a bar area, a restaurant and large rooms sumptuously furnished. It's on the C27, 21 km from Sesriem

It's worth paying a little extra for one of the Oasis Rooms in the castle annex – the camel thorn rooms in the main reception building are lovely but lack the wow factor. And don't miss the sundowner spot out the back for a cocktail at day’s end, or the spa. There's also quad biking for guests.

Sossus Dune LodgeLODGE$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-2857200; www.nwr.com.na/resorts/sossus-dune-lodge; s/d chalets with half board N$3190/5940; icon-swimgifs)

Splash out at this ultraexclusive lodge, which is administered by NWR, and is one of only two properties located inside the park gates. Constructed entirely of local materials, the lodge consists of elevated bungalows that run alongside a curving promenade, and face out towards the silent desert plains.

In the morning, you can roll out of your plush queen-sized bed, take a hot and steamy shower, sit down to a light breakfast of filter coffee and fresh fruits, and then be one of the first people to watch the morning light wash over Sossusvlei.

Sossusvlei LodgeLODGE$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%063-293636; www.sossusvleilodge.com; campsites per 2 people N$300, s with full board N$2466-3433, d with full board N$3640-4930; icon-swimgifs)

People either love this curious place or hate it, but it does make a statement. Accommodation is in self-contained chalets with private verandas, and guests can mingle with one another in the swimming pool, bar-restaurant and observatory. Walk-in rates are often cheaper.

There’s an adventure centre here that organises scenic flights, hot-air ballooning, quad biking and many other activities.

8Information

Sesriem Canyon and Sossusvlei are part of the Namib-Naukluft National Park and are open year-round. If you want to see the sunrise over Sossusvlei, you must stay inside the park, either at the Sesriem Camp Site or the Sossus Dune Lodge. From both places, you are allowed to start driving to Sossusvlei before the general public are allowed through the main gates. If you’re content with simply enjoying the morning light, however, you can stay in Sesriem or Solitaire and simply pass through the park gate once the sun rises above the horizon – be prepared for queues at the park gate, however.

All visitors headed for Sossusvlei must check in at the park office and secure a park entry permit.

Namib-Naukluft park entry at Sossusvlei is N$80 per adult, N$10 per car.

8Getting There & Away

Sesriem is reached via a signposted turn-off from the C14, and petrol is available in town. There is no public transport leading into the park, though hotels can arrange tours if you don’t have your own vehicle.

The road leading from the park gate to the 2WD car park is paved, though the speed limit remains 60km/h. Although the road is conducive to higher speeds, there are oryxes and springboks dashing about, so drive with extreme care.

Solitaire Area

icon-phonegif%062, 063 & 064

Solitaire is a lonely and aptly named settlement of just a few buildings about 80km north of Sesriem along the A46. Although the town is nothing more than an open spot in the desert, the surrounding area is home to several guest farms and lodges, which can serve as an alternative base for exploring Sossusvlei. Otherwise, the town is little more than a place to refuel.

4Sleeping

Solitaire Country LodgeLODGE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-305173; www.sossusvlei.org/accommodation/solitaire-country-lodge/; C19; camping per person N$100, s/d N$495/805; icon-internetgifiicon-swimgifs)

Despite its relative youth, the property was designed to evoke images of a colonial-era farmhouse, albeit one with a large swimming pool in the backyard! Serviceable rooms are fairly sparse, a decent size and set around a large, grassed square.

Solitaire Guest FarmFARMSTAY$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-305173; camping N$150, s/d with half board from N$1000/1600; icon-swimgifs)

This inviting guest farm, located 6km east of Solitaire on the C14, is a peaceful oasis situated between the Namib plains and the Naukluft Massif. Bright rooms, home-cooked meals and relaxing surroundings make it a good choice.

Camp GeckoTENTED CAMP$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%062-572017; www.campgecko.net; s/d with half board N$1018/1778)

East of Solitaire, original Camp Gecko has Meru-style safari tents and unusual, two-storey tents known as Bush Hideaways. It's an excellent choice at a price a little lower than most in the area.

icon-top-choiceoAgama River CampLODGE, CAMPGROUND$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%063-683245; www.agamarivercamp.com; camping N$150, s/d chalets N$1700/2680)

This relatively new lodge is in a handy spot between Solitaire and Sesriem (34km from Sesriem). The chalets are supremely comfortable and have rooftop decks so you can sleep under the stars. There's also an excellent campsite, while in the main lodge there's a sundowner deck and lounge; meals are only available if booked well in advance.

icon-top-choiceoMoon MountainTENTED CAMP$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-305176; www.moonmountain.biz; s/d from N$2210/4000; icon-swimgifs)

Off the C19 between Sesriem and Solitaire, this extraordinary tented camp clings to a steep hillside and the result is vertigo-inducing, sunset-facing views. The wood-floored tents open up to maximise the sense of flying above the desert but even so you'll just want to sit on your balcony (or in your private splash pool) all evening. Stunning bathrooms round out a wonderful package. The suites are even more decadent.

Rostock RitzLODGE$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%064-694000, 081 258 5722; www.rostock-ritz-desert-lodge.com; camping from N$150, s/d chalets from N$1590/2544; icon-swimgifs)

This unique accommodation is known for its bizarre water gardens and cool and cave-like cement-domed chalets. The Rostock Campsite is a peaceful 7km from the lodge itself. The staff can arrange a number of activities, including hiking, a visit to the nearby hot springs and the obligatory trip to Sossusvlei. The Ritz lies east of the C14, just south of the C26 junction.

8Getting There & Away

Solitaire is connected to Sesriem by the unpaved C19, and petrol is available in town.

Check to see if the shuttle service is still running from Solitaire petrol station to Sosusvlei for N$150 return; also check with the station for the times the service runs. We reckon you're better off getting there under your own steam, but it does provide another option.

NamibRand Nature Reserve

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Bordering the Namib-Naukluft Park, NamibRand Nature Reserve (www.namibrand.org) is essentially a collection of private farms that together protect over 200,000 hectares of dunes, desert grasslands and wild, isolated mountain ranges. Currently, several concessionaires operate on the reserve, offering a range of experiences amid one of Namibia’s most stunning and colourful landscapes. A surprising amount of wildlife can be seen here, including large herds of gemsboks, springboks and zebras, as well as kudus, klipspringers, spotted hyenas, jackals, and Cape and bat-eared foxes.

4Sleeping

NamibRand Family HideoutFARMSTAY$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-226803; www.nrfhideout.com; camping N$150)

Run on solar energy and making a virtue of its remoteness, NamibRand Family Hideout is run by Andreas and Mandy, who offer a warm welcome, two wonderfully isolated campsites and accommodation in the farmhouse (sleeps 10). Much of the old farm infrastructure, now defunct, has been left in situ to evoke the property's sheep-farming days. Farm rates vary with the number of people staying.

icon-top-choiceoSossusvlei Desert LodgeLODGE$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%in South Africa 27-11-809 4300; www.andbeyond.com; per person all-inclusive high/low season N$10,185/6345; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

This stunning place frequently appears in Condé Nast as one of the top lodges in the world, and we're inclined to agree. The property contains 10 chalets, which are constructed from locally quarried stone and appear to blend effortlessly into the surrounding landscape. The interiors showcase contemporary flair with lovely earth tones, and feature personal fireplaces, marble baths and linen-covered patios.

As always with &Beyond properties, exemplary service is a feature. Of special interest is the on-site observatory, which boasts a high-powered telescope and local star charts.

Wolwedans Boulders CampLODGE$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-230616; www.wolwedans.com/lodges-camps/boulders-safari-camp/; s/d all-inclusive N$8750/12,500)

A stunning Wolwedans property, Boulders Lodge puts its back hard up against a protrusion of bouldered hills, which gives a sense of refuge from the great emptiness of the land all around, but with splendid views of the desert in all its immensity. The rooms are stunning, with extraordinary views without even leaving your bed.

Wolwedans Dune LodgeLODGE$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%061-230616; www.wolwedans.com; s/d all-inclusive from N$6930/9900; icon-acongifaicon-swimgifs)

One of the more affordable lodges in the NamibRand, Wolwedans Dune Lodge features an architecturally arresting collection of raised wooden chalets that are scattered amid towering red sand dunes. Service is impeccable, and the atmosphere is overwhelmingly elegant, yet you can indulge your wild side at any time with chauffeured 4WD dune drives and guided safaris.

8Getting There & Away

Access by private vehicle is restricted in order to maintain the delicate balance of the reserve. Accommodation prices are also extremely high, which seeks to limit the tourist footprint. As a result, you must book in advance through a lodge, and then arrange either a 4WD transfer or a chartered fly-in.