One of the great boltholes on Southern African overland trails, ‘the Bridge’ has a great bar-at-the-end-of-the-world kind of vibe. Accommodation ranges from dome tents by the riverbank to well-appointed campsites and some more private tents.

Here, bush pilots and backpackers chat each other up, families take a break from the rigours of life on the African road, and a semiregular cast of drunks keeps the bar propped up.

A good range of mokoro trips and the like is on offer. In short, this is a place that understands travel and doesn’t make you pay over the odds for it.

Off Shorobe Rd, Audi Camp is a fantastic campsite that’s become increasingly popular with families, although independent overlanders will also feel welcome. Management is friendly and helpful, and there’s a wide range of safari activities. The restaurant does a mean steak. If you don’t have your own tent, the preerected tents complete with fan are a rustically luxurious option.

This down-to-earth spot off Shorobe Rd has a lovely setting on the riverbank. The owners are friendly and unpretentious, and pride themselves on giving travellers useful (and independent) information on trips through the delta. Between this spot and the Old Bridge Backpackers, you’ll find most of Maun’s tourist and expat-oriented nightlife.

On that note, we’ve got to give the owners credit for the excellent name of their boat: Sir Rosis of the River.

‘Croc Camp’ occupies a superb spot right on the river and is a quieter place for those not needing shots of presafari sambuca (not that it doesn’t serve sambuca…). Off Shorobe Rd, the campsite is excellent and secure and there are also thatched riverside chalets with bathrooms.

This no-frills rest camp off Shorobe Rd is spotless and boasts what justifiably may be ‘the cleanest ablution blocks in Maun’. A recent change of ownership has seen it fall under the sway of Old Bridge Backpackers, but it promised to maintain the camp's motto of 'Clean, Quiet, Comfortable'. Accommodation is in tidy, well-kept tents.

These mini, self-catering apartments aren't really close to anything, but they're large, nicely kept and generally quiet – perfect if you have your own set of wheels. The rooms don't have a lot of character, but it's still an excellent and reliable midrange option.

These excellent self-catering cottages have bright colour schemes, excellent apartment-style rooms with plenty of space and free wi-fi. There's a swimming pool, too, as well as a lovely garden setting that's not immediately apparent from the road.

Run by respected film-makers June and Tim Liversedge, the Kraal is a terrific place to stay. The attractive thatched rondavels are beautifully appointed with just the right blend of safari prints, earth tones and African handicrafts and artwork. There's a pool, free wi-fi and a barbecue area, and the owners are a mine of information on the region.

The same owners run African Arts & Images next to the airport.

Dutch-run Discovery does a cool job of creating an African-village vibe in the midst of Maun – the owners strive for and achieve ‘affordable accommodation with a traditional touch’. The thatched, rondavel-style housing looks pretty bush from the outside and feels as posh as a nice hotel on the inside.

A pretty garden connects the dusty grounds, and there’s a good communal fire pit for safari stories with fellow travellers.

One of the original lodges in Maun, Island Safari is still one of the best, with a range of accommodation set along a nice stretch of riverbank. The campsites have ablutions blocks and give access to the lodge’s pool, restaurant and bar. The chalets are excellent value. The riverside location is ideal on lazy afternoons and the restaurant is excellent.

It also runs a professional, well-established series of safaris.

This upmarket option is just south of the town centre and boasts all the luxuries you’d expect at this price. It’s certainly a comfortable option, though it’s lacking in personality and atmosphere, especially if you’re coming from (or going to) any of the luxury lodges in the delta.

If you feel most comfortable in a hotel-style environment, the Sedia is a good option. This resort-like complex features an outdoor bar, a continental-inspired restaurant and a huge swimming pool. You can choose from a number of rooms and self-contained chalets, or simply pitch a tent and take advantage of all the hotel facilities.

This private farm-reserve, about 13km west of the airport, is a lovely luxury option that maintains a good crew of regular visitors. These returnees are probably impressed by the resident wandering giraffes, kudus and ostriches, the large, beautifully decked-out private cabins and the utter sense of calm and quiet far from Maun’s bustle.

With a beautiful setting on a sun-drenched curve of the Thamalakane River, overlooking wading hippos and waving reeds (when there's enough water), Thamalakane wins in the location stakes, at least for Maun. It has beautiful little stone chalets stuffed with modern amenities and dressed up in safari-chic tones. The lodge is 19km northeast of Maun, off the road to Shorobe.

The lodge has a kitchen cranking out some of the best food in Maun.

Set in 30 hectares of bushland along the Nhabe River 30km west of Maun along the road to Ghanzi, Dutch-run Tshima is a lovely bush alternative to sleeping in Maun. There are just four classic safari tents, but they're immaculately maintained and a steal when compared to tented accommodation in the delta's luxury camps. Plenty of birdlife inhabits the camp.

Riley’s is the only hotel or lodge in central Maun and it has a long pedigree: it's been here since before tourists began arriving, although it’s barely recognisable these days, especially since the Cresta chain made it one of its landmark properties. It offers comfortable rooms in a convenient setting in leafy grounds – just don’t expect a lodge/wilderness experience.

One of the more intimate camps run by Wilderness Safaris, Chitabe Lediba has just five tents (including two family ones) and a warm and intimate atmosphere. The larger-than-usual tents here are supremely comfortable, and the whole place is also distinguished by the warm service and brilliant game drives.

Nice touches in the tents include fine black-and-white photographic prints, antique African maps, alongside classic safari furnishings, although such is the size of the tents that they never feel overdone; and yes, there are the usual indoor and outdoor shower options. The broad private terraces are the place to watch as passing elephants or buffaloes wander past.

Chitabe concession, which this camp shares with Chitabe, is prime wildlife country – we saw lion cubs and leopards here, with wild dogs sometimes a possibility – but the landscapes too are exceptionally beautiful here, from the acacia woodlands to the ghostly forests of dead leadwood trees on the way in from the air strip.

This riverine forest retreat is the architectural jewel of the Okavango Delta, as well as one of the premier safari camps anywhere in Southern Africa. Service is warm and welcoming, the accommodation is exceptional in its style and comfort, and the location (next to the famed Chitabe concession) is one of the best anywhere in the delta.

The newly built main lodge building rises from the water's edge like an apparition. Built to resemble a pangolin in pine and cedar, its effect is utterly breathtaking, feeling at once a part of the surrounding woodland (the main building is open-sided and a magnificent place to relax) and utterly indulgent. When we had dinner here, a spotted hyena wandered past just metres from where we sat. Attached to the main building is one of the delta's best gift shops. There's also a spa and massage area, and a gym.

The rooms, too, have a style all their own. Built to resemble golden weaver nests, they are curvaceous things of beauty. Open fires are just the ticket in winter, and everything is beautifully designed – we loved the copper washbasins and playful sense of perspective. Expansive private terraces with plunge pools overlook the water, and there's plenty of space to spend an afternoon just taking it all in while your private butler brings you the drink of your choice…yes, every room has its own designated 'butler' who will cater to your every whim. This sense of elevated levels of very personal service is something of an &Beyond hallmark.

The wildlife watching here is first-rate – we saw lions and leopards alone on just an overnight stay. There's also wi-fi in both communal areas and the rooms.

Near the Santandadibe River, at the southern edge of Moremi Game Reserve, Chitabe is an island oasis (only accessible by boat or plane). Accommodation at Chitabe Camp is in East African–style luxury tents, which have bathrooms and are built on wooden decks and sheltered beneath the shade of a lush canopy.

Chitabe is renowned for the presence of African wild dogs and other iconic wildlife, including leopards, lions and cheetahs – the Chitabe concession is widely considered among the elite delta safari destinations. It's this combination of stunning wildlife and supremely comfortable places to sleep, as well as the usual high standards of service we've come to expect from Wilderness, that make this a brilliant choice.

Part of Wilderness Safaris' portfolio of premier camps, Jao is a special place that combines Asian style (the public areas and the rooms were inspired by a Balinese longhouse) with a very African feel (jackalberry and mangosteen trees, liberal use of thatch). Rooms are uberluxurious and the staff are extremely professional and attentive to your every need.

This place is an experience as much as it is a lodge and it does things that no other lodges do – it has a first-class wine cellar you're welcome to browse, a small gym, arguably the best gift shop we saw in the delta, a real tree-house feel that comes from an award-winning design that incorporates elevated walkways, and a high vantage point overlooking the water.

The rooms, with perfectly sited outdoor day beds on the long terraces, feel like your own extremely large delta hideaway. Wooden furnishings, nightly hot-water bottles placed in your bed while you're at dinner, marvellous beds, yoga mats, a mini library in your room – this is one place where you'll almost certainly want to spend an afternoon or morning in camp. If you do so, you might be really lucky and have the elusive Pel's fishing owl perch right outside your window.

Calling you out are the activities, from mokoro or motorboat excursions on the skein of waterways, to wildlife drives led by expert guides in search of lions, leopards and even sitatungas, not to mention rich birdlife.

Unusually, there is a small entertainment room with wi-fi connectivity for those who really must stay in touch with the outside world.

This highly recommended camp has the usual high levels of comfort, but there are some very special selling points. The recently overhauled rooms, elevated high above the water, are simply stunning, while the camp manager, Dan Myburg, is a top-class photographer who can help elevate your photography above the usual even in just a few days.

The five rooms sport a striking, contemporary look, with whites and steely greys making a refreshing change from wood and wicker. Of all the camps in Wilderness Safaris' classic portfolio, those here come the closest to getting an upgrade into the premium class.

The public areas sport a modern bar alongside the wooden terrace, and safari prints and throws beneath the shady sausage tree. Like the rooms, these public areas are places to linger. The pool sits down at floodplain level, while Dan can proffer advice on photographic techniques or postprocessing down in his studio. You'll also find a good mix here of water- and land-based activities.

One of Wilderness Safaris' flagship properties, this regally luxurious twin camp is on the Duba Plains in the transition zone between the savannahs and swamps north of the delta. Although divided into north and south sections, with separate eating and other common areas, this is essentially a single lodge. It inhabits the Kwedi Concession and the wildlife viewing is superlative.

The rooms, arrayed along the shores of an expansive floodplain that has water for most of the year, are supremely luxurious and represent a refreshing change from the traditional safari look – everything here has a stylish contemporary feel and the massive, split-level rooms are simply gorgeous. They are some of the largest rooms in the delta. Gloriously comfortable beds, open-sided showers (as well as outdoor showers), wooden floors, a sunken sitting area with plush cushions and wildlife field guides, and large terraces right by the water are just some of the highlights. Floor-to-ceiling glass on three sides creates a wonderful sense of light and space without compromising on privacy. Rooms also have their own private plunge pools.

This is one of few camps to offer both full water-based activities (including mokoros and motorboats, although availability depends on water levels) and wildlife drives. When it comes to the latter, there are good chances of sighting leopards, lions, African wild dogs, red lechwes and abundant birdlife over the course of your stay. Other activities include scenic helicopter flights (30/45/60 minutes per person US$445/565/695) and hot-air balloon rides (one hour US$430 per person).

The public areas – the restaurant, bar and cushioned seating areas – face the setting sun across the water, and even the 'public' loo has a view.

Whenever you visit, and whichever part of the camp you find yourself in, you may never want to leave.

Opened in 2016, this wonderful camp has six tents that are immaculate, large and the sort of canvas home you'll struggle to tear yourself away from. But do so you must, for the wildlife here is some of the best in Africa – this is the homebase area for Dereck and Beverley Joubert and their marvellous wildlife films.

Everything is thought of, the location is perfect and it gets just right the sense of being out in the African wilds with not the slightest compromise on comfort.

It's the latest addition to the terrific portfolio of Great Plains Conservation.

A beautiful option for those wanting the amenities of a high-end safari – expertly cooked meals, attentive service and wonderful views over its island location in the delta – with a more rugged sense of place. The elegant tented rooms are large, lovely and as comfy as you’ll find anywhere, but there's more of a feeling of being engaged with the wilderness.

What with the hippos, warthogs and even elephants that occasionally wander through the grounds, the abundance of water, and the great wildlife in the vicinity, this is a real delta experience and, compared with prices elsewhere, Gunn’s represents fabulous value.

In a grove of ebony trees on the flats near the Boro River, this exquisitely designed tented camp has sweeping views of the delta floodplains. The rooms are magnificent – the private terraces in each are large with lovely swing chairs, each built around water's-edge termite mounds or trees, lending a real sense of intimacy with the landscape.

Inside the nine tents, every comfort is catered for, while the standards of service here are as exemplary as we have come to expect from &Beyond's camps. The rooms are also designed so that you wake up and you're instantly immersed in the landscape.

The main lodge area, which includes the bar, restaurant, sitting area and swimming pool, is undergoing a major overhaul as of early 2017. Unlike the rooms, which sport a daring contemporary look, the main lodge will remain old-school, classic-safari in aesthetics. There's also wi-fi in communal areas and, unlike other lodges around the delta, meals are taken at your own table, not communally with other guests.

The whole property overlooks a wide floodplain – classic Okavango views – that is home to a resident hippo and is a precursor to excellent game drives. Like all of &Beyond's camps, your vehicle will have both a driver and a tracker, and on a single afternoon's drive here, we drew near to a pride of nine lions and a coalition of five cheetahs.

North of the Moremi Game Reserve, Duba Plains is one of the delta's most remote camps. It was recently taken over by Great Plains Conservation and, when we last visited, was being totally dismantled. A new camp, built on entirely green foundations and principles, has since reopened in 2017.

Eagle Island occupies a stunning concession deep in the waters. The silk-soft tents are suitably luxurious with private plunge pools and vantage points over the delta's waterways at every turn. The copper bedheads are a nod to Botswana's mining history. Helicopter and mokoro safaris are part of your stay, plus the usual range of wildlife drives, walks and lavish meals.

Arriving here by boat is just the start of your enjoyable island-camp experience. There are just five tents, and the look is decidedly rustic. The tents are classic safari canvas, perhaps a little simpler than others in the Wilderness portfolio, and the sycamore tree around which the communal dining and bar area is built is a pleasing feature.

Game drives are possible here, but it's the mokoro and motorboat excursions that are the main event – fabulous birdlife, elephants, hippos and great sunsets are highlights of this watery world.

Rooms have the usual outdoor/indoor showers, while tent 1 is often used for honeymooners because of its copper, claw-foot bath overlooking the water.

The 'public' toilet is a place to linger with its fine views, and there are plans to go fully solar within a couple of years.

This classy retreat occupies a watery site in a maze of grass- and palm-covered islands on the Xudum River. It was overhauled in 2016 and is an excellent base for wildlife viewing by mokoro around Chief's Island, or fishing in the surrounding waterways. The birding, too, is outstanding. Accommodation is in eight well-furnished linen tents shaded by towering riverine forest.

This adjunct to Wilderness Safaris' Tubu Tree Camp promises one of the delta's more intimate experiences – there are just three tents and you're treated like family. It shares Hunde Island with Tubu Tree and the leopard viewing is consistently good. The tents are wonderfully uncluttered, with an emphasis on letting in as much light and air as possible.

Billed as an 'adventure' camp in the Wilderness Safaris portfolio, Pelo was rebuilt in 2015 to fit a more classic mould, though prices remain as low as you'll find for this kind of comfort and experience in Botswana. Built on an island, and offering only waterborne activities (mokoro and motorboat excursions), Pelo is perhaps the delta's most relaxed such place.

There's an inviting swimming pool, excellent birding (including in 2016 two resident pairs of Pel's fishing owls), a resident elephant and 100% solar power, while the tents are conventional in design with an attractive contemporary look. Unless you need your dose of big cats and game drives, Pelo is a fine overall package.

Seba, a lovely Setswana word meaning 'Whisper', is set in an equally lovely riverine forest. While it offers many of the same aristocratic offerings as other top-end safari lodges, what sets it apart is the emphasis on family service – unlike other properties, this one really welcomes children.

Youngsters (and oldsters) can pass their days watching researchers study nearby elephants that have been released into the wild from captivity.

It's not the delta's most prolific wildlife area, but the birding is terrific, the woodland setting gorgeous and the rooms and service are top-notch.

Get your khaki and pith-helmet fix from the gorgeous tilted accommodation that hovers over this pretty little corner of the Okavango. Verandas look out from your accommodation over one of the delta's largest consistently dry areas, which often teems with a good variety of wildlife – it prides itself on leopard sightings. Rooms are lovely without being overdone.

Pronounced 'kee-jera', this isolated spot is deep in the heart of the Inner Delta and is renowned for its rich birdlife. It's predominantly a water camp, but game drives are possible. The area surrounding the camp is permanent wetland, which gives Xigera a lush and tropical atmosphere. Accommodation is in eight rather lovely tent-chalets.

The tents (including one family tent) have a wonderful sense of privacy, they are well furnished and get the whole safari-tent-in-the-wilderness thing spot on without compromising on comfort – we would happily spend a day sitting on one of the ample triangular terraces contemplating the delta's waters. Wooden floors are offset by straw mats and modern desks that lighten the feel.

Elephants and hippos are often seen around camp, and a leopard even wandered across the bridge and along the walkways to the tents when we were last in camp. Vervet monkeys also inhabit the island. On the game drives, leopards are possible year-round, with lions and wild dogs only possible in the dry season when water levels drop. We spent a most pleasurable morning with a leopard family, including a cub that decided to eat our vehicle's tyres, out in the lovely game-drive area west of camp where the palm trees, wild sage and termite mounds look for all the world like a plain filled with Burmese pagodas.

Mokoro or motorboat excursions are good for birdlife (we saw a Pel's fishing owl here), as well as elephants and hippos.

Eminently reasonable prices by delta standards are another reason to choose Xigera as your base in the delta.

Most transfers from the airstrip involve 4WD then a boat into camp.

Style and stellar service are recurring themes at all &Beyond properties and Xudum, in the northern Okavango Delta, is no exception. The rooms here have a lovely mix of safari chic and contemporary style with light wood fittings. Abundant use of glass gives a real sense of oneness with the elements and the rooms are perfectly proportioned.

Wildlife watching is excellent – this is the delta, after all.

This relatively new program, run by Ker & Downey, places an emphasis on walking and mokoro safaris across the delta floodplains. It’s the sort of thing that rewards fit travellers, but with that said, the rest camps are still impressively posh – the theme is old Africa exploration, but we doubt Livingstone ever laid his bushy beard on these soft sheets.

Family safaris, too, are an important part of the Ker & Downey package.

Located on the fringe of the Moremi Game Reserve, this lodge has a style all its own and is one of few independent lodges in the delta. African hardwoods dominate the decor, with adobe walls and zinc bath-tubs adding a more rustic, Out of Africa feel without compromising on comfort. It offers a good mix of land- and water-based activities.

This well-priced collection of lovely chalets flanks a simply gorgeous (and enormous) thatched dining and bar area that overlooks a long floodplain where you can often see wandering giraffes and elephants. Rooms are simpler than many in the delta, but prices, too, are more modest. Mokoro trips and wildlife drives are the main activities.

The camp is to be commended for pioneering a plumbing system that minimises environmental impact (it’s also quite a feat of engineering – ask to see how it all works).

It's part of the well-regarded portfolio of Under One Botswana Sky.

For years, Oddball’s was a well-regarded budget lodge and something of a delta institution, but although it’s still way below lodge prices elsewhere in the delta, we reckon it's asking too much considering you’re still staying in budget dome tents. It occupies less-than-exciting woodland beside an airstrip, but is within walking distance of some classic delta scenery.

This intimate camp was one of the delta's original luxury retreats, though frequent renovations have kept it up to speed with recent properties. Six linen tents, rather standard in design, are skilfully placed around a scenic lagoon, which contributes to the tranquil and soothing atmosphere. Some of the tents could be a little larger.

There's good wildlife in the area – we saw cheetahs and lions on our last visit to the concession.

Little Vumbura has a stunning island setting: this is one camp where you can only arrive by boat (after a short vehicle ride from the airstrip) for much of the year. With just six tents (including one family tent), the whole place has an intimate feel and is one of the more personal delta-camp experiences.

The island is a haven of birdsong, and all of the safari tents face onto the water. The look in the tents is the perfect blend of traditional safari aesthetics (wooden floors and furnishings, including the obligatory, water-facing writing desk, as well as free-standing claw-foot bath-tubs) with lighter colour schemes and a real sense of space. We love the hammocks, while honeymooning couples will want tent number 6 with its outdoor bath-tub. Pretty communal areas and welcoming staff round out a fine package.

It's the sister camp to Wilderness Safaris' showpiece Vumbura Plains Camp.

A favourite Moremi campground, Xakanaxa occupies a narrow strip of land surrounded by marshes and lagoons. It’s no coincidence that many upmarket lodges are located nearby – the wildlife in the area can be prolific and campers are frequently woken by elephants or serenaded by hippo grunts. Be warned: a young boy was tragically killed by hyenas here in 2000.

Boat journeys onto the lagoon are also possible.

The favourite campsite for many self-drivers, Third Bridge has sites away from the main track – set on the edge of a lagoon (watch out for hippos and crocs), it’s a beautiful place to pitch. Be wary of baboons and avoid walking on the bridge or sleeping in the open because wildlife – especially lions – use the bridge as a thoroughfare.

This campsite is reasonably developed, but its distance from the main wildlife-watching areas would make it our last choice of the public campsites. Alternatively, it’s a good option if you don’t think you can reach Third Bridge or Xakanaxa by nightfall. Be careful not to leave any food lying about, as the baboons here are aggressive and ill-tempered.

The campsites at this expansive campground are shady and well developed, with some lovely sites close to the riverbank; others are a little further inland. There’s an ablutions block and good wildlife watching in the area. In July 2012 there was a nonfatal leopard attack on a lone camper; always drive to the ablutions block from your campsite after dark.

There are a couple of small shops in Khwai village on the other side of the river selling food and other supplies.

Ask anyone in Botswana for the country’s most exclusive camp and they’re likely to nominate Mombo. The surrounding delta scenery is some of the finest in the Okavango and the wildlife watching is almost unrivalled. The rooms are enormous and the entire package – from the service to the comfort levels and attention to detail – never misses a beat.

It's situated (with its sister camp, Little Mombo) on the northwest corner of Chief’s Island.

Five elevated suites overlook a tree line that conceals (but not too much) great wildlife viewing in a shady, woodsy area of the delta close to the southern end of Chief’s Island; the outdoor bath tubs are pure indulgence.

There’s a very private, world-in-its-infancy sense of fresh beauty in the place; you’d be forgiven for thinking a naked couple arguing over an apple were about to emerge from the landscape.

Xaranna is a worthy member of the elite group of camps run by &Beyond, which mixes daringly designed luxury accommodation with serious conservation work. Xaranna's large rooms have expansive terraces, private pools and as little to separate you from the delta surrounds as is possible. The food is excellent and the service first-rate.

You're on your own island here, and helicopter flights are possible, as are wildlife drives on which big cats are a real possibility.

Set amid sausage and jackalberry trees on Nxaragha Island, just outside Moremi, this charming lodge is elegant, and the staff are known for their meticulous attention to detail. If you want Okavango served up with silver tea service, this could be the place for you.

Considered by many to be one of the premier camps in the delta, Chief’s blends into its marshy surroundings like a hunter in a duck blind. With a front-row seat to some of the finest wildlife on the delta from 12 pretty incredible luxury ‘bush pavilions’, who are we to argue?

On the north side of the Khwai River, not far from the village, Sango’s is somewhat less pretentious than some other Moremi camps, but nonetheless maintains an air of quiet exclusivity. Handcrafted furnishings are a nice touch, while game drives generally go where other lodges don’t.

It's also unusual in offering cheaper rates for those driving their own vehicles and not looking to join the game drives.

This lagoonside camp sits just north of Moremi, between the savannah and the delta, and is one of the delta's oldest camps, but a 2015 renovation has helped keep everything fresh, with stunning rooms sporting a classic wood-and-canvas aesthetic.

Set on a pristine lagoon just north of Moremi, this lodge offers superb birdwatching and fishing. Accommodation is in beautiful thatched chalets with wood furnishings, large, water-facing private decks and a good mix of safari nostalgia and modern comforts.

This area was historically frequented by ancient San hunters, and Xugana means ‘kneel down to drink’ – a reference to the welcome sight of perennial water after a long hunt.

This long-standing wilderness retreat sits amid giant ebony trees next to the heronry at Xakanaxa Lediba and is surrounded by wildlife-rich grasslands. Accommodation is in East African–style linen tents that are attractively furnished with wooden fixtures.

This camp, of longer standing than most, offers a pleasant mix of delta and savannah habitat, and teems with huge herds of elephants and other wildlife. However, it’s most famous for its legendary birdwatching, especially along the shores of the nearby Xakanaxa Lediba. It's very good at providing the luxury safari experience.

Perched on the northern shores of the Khwai River, this opulent lodge overlooks the Moremi Game Reserve and is frequently visited by large numbers of hippos and elephants. Accommodation is in 15 wonderful luxury tents.

Although less ostentatious than other lodges in Moremi, Stanley’s, located near the Boro River near the southern end of Chief’s Island, lacks the formality and pretence commonly found in this corner of the country. The eight tents are simple but spacious, and elephant sightings in particular are almost guaranteed in the camp’s vicinity, with wild dogs also a possibility.

This island camp lies in an area of subterranean springs that attract flocks of pelicans (kwara means ‘where the pelicans feed’). These pools also attract heavy concentrations of wildlife, which is a major drawcard for the lodge. Although the place is semiluxurious and more modest than many other Moremi options, guests enjoy the informal and relaxed atmosphere and lower prices.

Stylish rooms on slightly elevated wooden decks have a refreshingly contemporary look that you just don't expect to find in this dusty, nondescript border town. Many overlook the small river channel (as do the campsites). It also has comfortable, elevated dome tents for those without their own camping equipment.

The whole place is an excellent choice and is something of an oasis for those travelling between Namibia and Botswana.

This camp is run by the Okavango Polers Trust and is the usual launching point for mokoro trips into the delta. Sadly, like so many community projects, the camp has gone downhill in recent years and the campsites, bar, traditional restaurant and two-storey chalets have all seen better days. Mbiroba is 3km from Seronga village.

This lovely spot at the panhandle’s lower end is a fantastic place. Each of the shady campsites has its own shower and toilet, and the tranquil setting continues with a lovely public area where you can order drinks and also use the kitchen. Most of the chalets overlook the water.

It can also arrange everything from boat hire and fishing trips to night drives and three-day mokoro trips.

If you’re driving, the trail is well signposted from Etsha 13. Transfer to or from Etsha 13/Seronga costs P112/1232.

This laid-back riverside campsite is secluded, handy to Sepupa village, very affordable and accessible (3km) from the Maun–Shakawe road. The lodge can arrange mokoro trips through the Okavango Polers Trust and transfers to Sepupa, as well as boat trips that start at P325/1900 per hour/day.

Most mokoro trips from here require a boat transfer as the waters here are usually too deep for poling.

This lovely, welcoming lodge lies beside a channel of the Okavango River. The chalets have air-con; the A-frames are fan only. Boats can be rented and the bar-restaurant serves breakfast/lunch/dinner for P150/180/220. The campsite is similarly attractive and there’s a boat to take you to the restaurant in the evening.

The lodge is about 5km southeast of Shakawe and around 4km east of the main road. Set amid a thick riverine forest, it’s very secluded, with fabulous birdwatching and fine views across the reeds and papyrus.

Floating down the river in one of these houseboats, which vaguely resemble Mississippi steamboats that got lost somewhere in Angola, gives a new, aquatic twist to the ‘mobile safari’ experience. The craft depart from Seronga, and should be booked well in advance. Expect some amazing birding and riverside wildlife viewing. The boats accommodate six to 20 people.

Petrol and food costs extra but a crew is included; check the website.

Run by the son of the owners of Drotsky’s Cabins, this lodge is remote – about 10km downstream from Drotksy’s – but serene and extremely picturesque. Accommodation is in several clean and tidy ‘luxury’ tents that surround a modest bar-restaurant. The main activity is fishing, though the lodge also makes for a great retreat and there’s good birdwatching in the vicinity.

Boat transfers from Drotksy’s Cabins cost P40 per person.