STEPHEN CRANE IN MINETTA LANE
ONE OF GOTHAM’S MOST NOTORIOUS THOROUGHFARES. THE
NOVELIST TELLS WHAT HE SAW AND HEARD ON A STREET WHERE THE
INHABITANTS HAVE BEEN FAMOUS FOR EVIL DEEDS, WHERE THE BURGLAR AND
THE SHOPLIFTER AND THE MURDERER LIVE SIDE BY SIDE. THE NOVEL RESORT
OF MAMMY ROSS AND OTHERS OF HER KIND.
MINETTA LANE IS A small and becobbled valley
between hills of dingy brick. At night the street lamps, burning
dimly, cause the shadows to be important, and in the gloom one sees
groups of quietly conversant negroes with occasionally the gleam of
a passing growler.bm
Everything is vaguely outlined and of uncertain identity unless
indeed it be the flashing buttons and shield of the policeman on
post. The Sixth Avenue horse cars jingle past one end of the Lane
and, a block eastward, the little thoroughfare ends in the darkness
of MacDougal Street.
One wonders how such an insignificant alley could
get such an absurdly large reputation, but, as a matter of fact,
Minetta Lane, and Minetta Street, which leads from it southward to
Bleecker Street, MacDougal Street and nearly all the streets
thereabouts were most unmistakably bad, but when the Minettas
started out the other streets went away and hid. To gain a
reputation in Minetta Lane, in those days, a man was obliged to
commit a number of furious crimes, and no celebrity was more
important than the man who had a good honest killing to his credit.
The inhabitants, for the most part, were negroes, and they
represented the very worst elements of their race. The razor habit
clung to them with the tenacity of an epidemic, and every night the
uneven cobbles felt blood. Minetta Lane was not a public
thoroughfare at this period. It was a street set apart, a refuge
for criminals. Thieves came here preferably with their gains, and
almost any day peculiar sentences passed among the inhabitants.
“Big Jim turned a thousand last night.” “No Toe’s made another
haul.” And the worshipful citizens would make haste to be present
at the consequent revel.
Not Then a Thoroughfare.
As has been said, Minetta Lane was then no
thoroughfare. A peaceable citizen chose to make a circuit rather
than venture through this place, that swarmed with the most
dangerous people in the city. Indeed, the thieves of the district
used to say: “Once get in the Lane and you’re all right.” Even a
policeman in chase of a criminal would probably shy away instead of
pursuing him into the lane. The odds were too great against a lone
officer.
Sailors, and many men who might appear to have
money about them, were welcomed with all proper ceremony at the
terrible dens of the Lane. At departure, they were fortunate if
they still retained their teeth. It was the custom to leave very
little else to them. There was every facility for the capture of
coin, from trapdoors to plain ordinary knockout drops.
And yet Minetta Lane is built on the grave of
Minetta Brook, where, in olden times, lovers walked under the
willows of the bank, and Minetta Lane, in later times, was the home
of many of the best families of the town.
A negro named Bloodthirsty was perhaps the most
luminous figure of Minetta Lane’s aggregation of desperadoes.
Bloodthirsty, supposedly, is alive now, but he has vanished from
the Lane. The police want him for murder. Bloodthirsty is a large
negro and very hideous. He has a rolling eye that shows white at
the wrong time and his neck, under the jaw, is dreadfully scarred
and pitted.
Bloodthirsty was particularly eloquent when drunk,
and in the wildness of a spree he would rave so graphically about
gore, that even the habituated wool of old timers would stand
straight. Bloodthirsty meant most of it, too. That is why his
orations were impressive. His remarks were usually followed by the
wide lightning sweep of his razor. None cared to exchange epithets
with Bloodthirsty. A man in a boiler iron suit would walk down to
City Hall and look at the clock before he would ask the time of day
from single minded and ingenuous Bloodthirsty.
No Toe Charley.
After Bloodthirsty, in combative importance, came
No Toe Charley Singularly enough Charley was called No Toe solely
because he did not have a toe to his feet. Charley was a small
negro and his manner of amusement was not Bloodthirsty’s simple
ways. As befitting a smaller man, Charley was more wise, more sly,
more roundabout than the other man. The path of his crimes was like
a corkscrew, in architecture, and his method led him to make many
tunnels. With all his cleverness, however, No Toe was finally
induced to pay a visit to the gentlemen in the grim gray building
up the river.
Black-Cat was another famous bandit who made the
Lane his home. Black-Cat is dead. It is within some months that
Jube Tyler has been sent to prison, and after mentioning the recent
disappearance of Old Man Spriggs, it may be said that the Lane is
now destitute of the men who once crowned it with a glory of crime.
It is hardly essential to mention Guinea Johnson. Guinea is not a
great figure. Guinea is just an ordinary little crook. Sometimes
Guinea pays a visit to his friends, the other little crooks who
make homes in the Lane, but he himself does not live there, and
with him out of it, there is now no one whose industry in
unlawfulness has yet earned him the dignity of a nickname. Indeed,
it is difficult to find people now who remember the old gorgeous
days, although it is but two years since the Lane shone with sin
like a new headlight. But after a search the reporter found
three.
Mammy Ross is one of the last relics of the days of
slaughter still living there. Her weird history also reaches back
to the blossoming of the first members of the Whyobn gang
in the old Sixth Ward, and her mind is stored with bloody memories.
She at one time kept a sailor’s boarding house near the Tombs
Prison,bo and
accounts of all the festive crimes of that neighborhood in ancient
years roll easily from her tongue. They killed a sailor man every
day, and the pedestrians went about the streets wearing stoves for
fear of the handy knives. At the present day the route to Mammy’s
home is up a flight of grimy stairs that is pasted on the outside
of an old and tottering frame house. Then there is a hall blacker
than a wolf ’s throat, and this hall leads to a little kitchen
where Mammy usually sits groaning by the fire. She is, of course,
very old, and she is also very fat. She seems always to be in great
pain. She says she is suffering from “de very las’ dregs of de
yaller fever.”
A Picture of Suffering.
During the first part of a reporter’s recent visit
old Mammy seemed most dolefully oppressed by her various diseases.
Her great body shook and her teeth clicked spasmodically during her
long and painful respirations. From time to time she reached her
trembling hand and drew a shawl closer about her shoulders. She
presented as true a picture of a person undergoing steady,
unchangeable, chronic pain as a patent medicine firm could wish to
discover for miraculous purposes. She breathed like a fish thrown
out on the bank, and her old head continually quivered in the
nervous tremors of the extremely aged and debilitated person.
Meanwhile her daughter hung over the stove and placidly cooked
sausages.
Appeals were made to the old woman’s memory.
Various personages who had been sublime figures of crime in the
long-gone days were mentioned to her, and presently her eyes began
to brighten. Her head no longer quivered. She seemed to lose for a
period her sense of pain in the gentle excitement caused by the
invocation of the spirits of her memory.
It appears that she had had a historic quarrel with
Apple Mag. She first recited the prowess of Apple Mag; how this
emphatic lady used to argue with paving stones, carving knives and
bricks. Then she told of the quarrel; what Mag said; what she said;
what Mag said; what she said: It seems that they cited each other
as spectacles of sin and corruption in more fully explanatory terms
than are commonly known to be possible. But it was one of Mammy’s
most gorgeous recollections, and, as she told it, a smile widened
over her face.
Finally she explained her celebrated retort to one
of the most illustrious thugs that had blessed the city in bygone
days. “Ah says to ‘im, Ah says: ‘You—you’ll die in yer boots like
Gallopin’ Thompson—dat’s what you’ll do.’ [Slug missing from
newsprint here.] one chile an’ he ain’t nuthin’ but er cripple, but
le’me tel’ you, man, dat boy’ll live t’ pick de feathers f ’m de
goose dat’ll eat de grass dat grows over your grave, man! Dat’s
what I tol’ ’m. But—lan’s sake—how I know dat in less’n three day,
dat man be lying in de gutter wif a knife stickin’ out’n his back.
Lawd, no, I sholy never s’pected nothing like dat.”
Memories of the Past.
These reminiscences, at once maimed and
reconstructed, have been treasured by old Mammy as carefully, as
tenderly, as if they were the various little tokens of an early
love. She applies the same back-handed sentiment to them, and, as
she sits groaning by the fire, it is plainly to be seen that there
is only one food for her ancient brain, and that is the
recollection of the beautiful fights and murders of the past.
On the other side of the Lane, but near Mammy’s
house, Pop Babcock keeps a restaurant. Pop says it is a restaurant,
and so it must be one, but you could pass there ninety times each
day and never know that you were passing a restaurant. There is one
obscure little window in the basement and if you went close and
peered in, you might, after a time, be able to make out a small,
dusty sign, lying amid jars on a shelf. This sign reads: “Oysters
in every style.” If you are of a gambling turn of mind, you will
probably stand out in the street and bet yourself black in the face
that there isn’t an oyster within a hundred yards. But Pop Babcock
made that sign and Pop Babcock could not tell an untruth. Pop is a
model of all the virtues which an inventive fate has made for us.
He says so.
As far as goes the management of Pop’s restaurant,
it differs from Sherry’s. In the first place the door is always
kept locked. The ward-men bp of
the Fifteenth Precinct have a way of prowling through the
restaurant almost every night, and Pop keeps the door locked in
order to keep out the objectionable people that cause the wardmen’s
visits. He says so. The cooking stove is located in the main room
of the restaurant, and it is placed in such a strategic manner that
it occupies about all the space that is not already occupied by a
table, a bench and two chairs. The table will, on a pinch, furnish
room for the plates of two people if they are willing to crowd. Pop
says he is the best cook in the world.
“Pop’s” View of It.
When questioned concerning the present condition
of the Lane, Pop said: “Quiet? Quiet? Lo’d save us, maybe it ain‘t!
Quiet? Quiet?” His emphasis was arranged crescendo, until the last
word was really a vocal explosion. “Why, dis her’ Lane ain’t nohow
like what it useter be—no indeed, it ain’t. No, sir! ‘Deed it
ain‘t! Why, I kin remember dey was a-cuttin’ an’ a’slashin’ ‘long
yere all night. ‘Deed dey was! My—my, dem times was different! Dat
dar Kent, he kep’ de place at Green Gate Cou‘t—down yer ol’
Mammy’s—an’ he was a hard baby—‘deed, he was—an’ ol’ Black-Cat an’
ol’ Bloodthirsty, dey was a-roamin’ round yere a-cuttin’ an’
a-slashin’ . Didn’t dar’ say boo to a goose in dose days, dat you
didn’t, less’n you lookin’ fer a scrap. No, sir!” Then he gave
information concerning his own prowess at that time. Pop is about
as tall as a picket on an undersized fence. “But dey didn’t have
nothin’ ter say to me! No, sir! ‘Deed, dey didn’t! I wouldn’t lay
down fer none of ‘em. No, sir! Dey knew my gait, ’deed, dey did!
Man, man, many’s de time I buck up agin ’em. Yes, sir!”
At this time Pop had three customers in his place,
one asleep on the bench, one asleep on the two chairs, and one
asleep on the floor behind the stove.
But there is one man who lends dignity of the real
bevel-edged type to Minetta Lane, and that man is Hank Anderson.
Hank, of course, does not live in the Lane, but the shadow of his
social perfections falls upon it as refreshingly as a morning dew.
Hank gives a dance twice in each week, at a hall hard by in
MacDougal Street, and the dusky aristocracy of the neighborhood
know their guiding beacon. Moreover, Hank holds an annual ball in
Forty-fourth Street. Also he gives a picnic each year to the
Montezuma Club, when he again appears as a guiding beacon. This
picnic is usually held on a barge and the occasion is a very joyous
one. Some years ago it required the entire reserve squad of an
up-town police precinct to properly control the enthusiasm of the
gay picnickers, but that was an exceptional exuberance and no
measure of Hank’s ability for management.
He is really a great manager. He was Boss Tweed’s
body-servant in the days when Tweed was a political prince, and
anyone who saw Bill Tweed through a spyglass learned the science of
leading, pulling, driving and hauling men in a way to keep men
ignorant of it. Hank imbibed from this fount of knowledge and he
applied his information in Thompson Street. Thompson Street
salaamed. Presently he bore a proud title: “The Mayor of Thompson
Street.” Dignities from the principal political organization of the
city adorned his brow and he speedily became illustrious.
Keeping in Touch.
Hank knew the Lane well in its direful days. As
for the inhabitants, he kept clear of them and yet in touch with
them according to a method that he might have learned in the Sixth
Ward. The Sixth Ward was a good place in which to learn that trick.
Anderson can tell many strange tales and good of the Lane, and he
tells them in the graphic way of his class. “Why, they could steal
your shirt without moving a wrinkle on it.”
The killing of Joe Carey was the last murder that
happened in the Minettas. Carey had what might be called a mixed
ale difference with a man named Kenny. They went out to the middle
of Minetta Street to affably fight it out and determine the justice
of the question. In the scrimmage Kenny drew a knife, thrust
quickly and Carey fell. Kenny had not gone a hundred feet before he
ran into the arms of a policeman.
There is probably no street in New York where the
police keep closer watch than they do in Minetta Lane. There was a
time when the inhabitants had a profound and reasonable contempt
for the public guardians, but they have it no longer apparently.
Any citizen can walk through there at any time in perfect safety
unless, perhaps, he should happen to get too frivolous. To be
strictly accurate, the change began under the reign of Police
Captain Chapman. Under Captain Groo, the present commander of the
Fifteenth Precinct, the Lane has donned a complete new garb. Its
denizens brag now of its peace precisely as they once bragged of
its war. It is no more a bloody lane. The song of the razor is
seldom heard. There are still toughs and semi-toughs galore in it,
but they can’t get a chance with the copper looking the other way.
Groo has got the poor old Lane by the throat. If a man should
insist on becoming a victim of the badger game he could probably
succeed upon search in Minetta Lane, as indeed, he could on any of
the great avenues; but then Minetta Lane is not supposed to be a
pearly street in Paradise.
In the meantime the Italians have begun to dispute
possession of the Lane with the negroes. Green Gate Court is filled
with them now, and a row of houses near the MacDougal Street corner
is occupied entirely by Italian families. None of them seems to be
overfond of the old Mulberry Bend fashion of life, and there are no
cutting affrays among them worth mentioning. It is the original
negro element that makes the trouble when there is trouble.
But they are happy in this condition, are these
people. The most extraordinary quality of the negro is his enormous
capacity for happiness under most adverse circumstances. Minetta
Lane is a place of poverty and sin, but these influences cannot
destroy the broad smile of the negro, a vain and simple child but
happy. They all smile here, the most evil as well as the poorest.
Knowing the negro, one always expects laughter from him, be he ever
so poor, but it was a new experience to see a broad grin on the
face of the devil. Even old Pop Babcock had a laugh as fine and
mellow as would be the sound of falling glass, broken saints from
high windows, in the silence of some great cathedral’s
hollow.