Getting There & Around

Domestic flights head to Queenstown from Auckland, Wellington and Christchurch; for international services, see the Transport chapter. Queenstown is also the main bus hub, with ser­vices radiating out to the West Coast (via Wanaka and Haast Pass), Christchurch, Dunedin (via Central Otago), Invercargill and Te Anau. Wanaka also has services to Christchurch and Dunedin.

Queenstown

Pop 12,500

Surrounded by the soaring indigo heights of the Remarkables and framed by the meandering coves of Lake Wakatipu, it’s little wonder that Queenstown is a show-off. No-one’s ever visited and said, ‘I’m bored’. Looking like a small town, but displaying the ­energy of a small city, Queenstown wears its ‘Global Adventure Capital’ badge proudly, and most visitors take the time to do crazy things they’ve never done before.

A new Queenstown is also emerging, with a cosmopolitan restaurant and arts scene, excellent vineyards and five international-standard golf courses. Go ahead and jump off a bridge or out of a plane, but take time to slow down and experience Queenstown without the adrenaline. At the very least, find a lakeside bench at dusk and immerse yourself in one of NZ’s most beautiful views.

Queenstown is well used to visitors with international accents, so expect great tourist facilities but also big crowds, especially in summer and winter. Autumn (March to May) and spring (October to November) are slightly quieter, but Queenstown is a true year-round destination.

The town’s restaurants and bars are regularly packed with a mainly young crowd that really know how to holiday. If you’re a more private soul, drop in to see what all the fuss is about, but then get out and about by exploring the sublime wilderness further up the lake at Glenorchy.

History

The region was deserted when the first Pakeha (white person) arrived in the mid-1850s, although there is evidence of previous Maori settlement. Sheep farmers came first, but after two shearers discovered gold on the banks of the Shotover River in 1862, a deluge of prospectors followed.

Within a year Queenstown was a mining town with streets, permanent buildings and a population of several thousand. It was declared ‘fit for a queen’ by the NZ government, hence Queenstown was born. Lake Wakatipu was the principal means of transport, and at the height of the boom there were four paddle steamers and 30 other craft plying the waters.

By 1900 the gold had petered out and the population was a mere 190. It wasn’t until the 1950s that Queenstown became a popular holiday destination.

Lake Wakatipu LAKE

Shaped like a perfect cartoon thunderbolt, this gorgeous lake has a 212km shoreline and reaches a depth of 379m (the average depth is over 320m). Five rivers flow into it but only one (the Kawarau) flows out, making it prone to sometimes quite dramatic floods.

If the water looks clean, that’s because it is. Scientists have rated it as 99.9% pure – making it the second-purest lake water in the world. In fact, you’re better off dipping your glass in the lake than buying bottled water. It’s also very cold. That beach by Marine Pde may look tempting on a scorching day, but trust us – you won’t want to splash about in water that hovers around 10°C year-round. Because cold water increases the risk of drowning, local bylaws require the wearing of life jackets in all boats under 6m, including kayaks, on all of the district’s lakes.

Maori tradition sees the lake’s shape as the burnt outline of the evil giant Matau sleeping with his knees drawn up. Local lad Matakauri set fire to the bed of bracken on which the giant slept in order to rescue his beloved Manata, a chief’s daughter who was kidnapped by the giant. The fat from Matau’s body created a fire so intense that it burnt a hole deep into the ground.

Sights

Queenstown Gardens PARK

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(Park St) Set on its own little tongue of land framing Queenstown Bay, this pretty park was laid out by those garden-loving Victorians as a place to promenade. The clothes may have changed (they’ve certainly shrunk), but people still flock to this leafy peninsula to stroll, picnic and laze about. Less genteel types head straight for the frisbee golf course (Click here).

Other highlights of the park include an ice-skating rink, skateboard park, lawn-bowling club, tennis courts, mature exotic trees (including large sequoias and some fab monkey puzzles by the rotunda) and a rose garden. There’s also a memorial to Captain Robert Scott (1868–1912), leader of the doomed South Pole expedition, which includes an engraving of his moving final message.

St Peter’s Anglican Church CHURCH

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(www.stpeters.co.nz; 2 Church St) This pretty wood-beamed stone building (1932) has an impressive organ and colourful stained glass. Take a look at the eagle-shaped cedar lectern, carved and donated in 1874 by Ah Tong, a Chinese immigrant.

Underwater World VIEWPOINT

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(www.kjet.co.nz; main jetty; adult/child $5/3; 8.30am-5pm) Six giant windows showcase life under the lake in this reverse aquarium (the people are behind glass). Large brown trout abound, and look out for freshwater eels and scaup (diving ducks), which cruise right past the windows – especially when the coin-operated food-release box is triggered.

Kiwi Birdlife Park BIRD SANCTUARY

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(www.kiwibird.co.nz; Brecon St; adult/child $42/21; 9am-5pm, shows 11am & 3pm) These 5 acres are home to 10,000 native plants, tuatara and scores of birds, including kiwi, kea, moreporks, parakeets and extremely rare black stilts. Stroll around the aviaries, watch the conservation show, and tiptoe quietly into the darkened kiwi houses.

Skyline Gondola CABLE CAR

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(www.skyline.co.nz; Brecon St; adult/child return $27/16) Hop aboard for fantastic views. At the top there’s the inevitable cafe, restaurant, souvenir shop and observation deck, as well as the Queenstown Bike Park (Click here) and Skyline Luge (Click here). At night there are Maori culture shows from Kiwi Haka (Click here) and stargazing tours (including gondola adult/child $79/39).

Walking trails include a loop track through the Douglas firs (30 minutes return). The energetic (or frugal) can forgo the gondola and hike to the top on the Tiki Trail (Click here).

Activities

A baffling array of activities is offered by a baffling number of shops in the town ­centre. It’s even more confusing due to the fact that some shops change their name from winter to summer, some run multiple activities from the same shop, and some activities are branded differently but are actually the same thing. Several places call themselves information centres, but only the i-SITE (Click here) is the true, independent, official information centre.

If you’re planning on tackling several activities, various combination tickets are available, including those offered by Queens­town Combos ( 03-442 7318; www.combos.co.nz) .

Tramping & Climbing

Pick up the Wakatipu Walks brochure ($5) from the Department of Conservation (DOC) for local tramping tracks ranging from easy one-hour strolls to tough eight-hour slogs.

Queenstown Hill Walkway HIKING

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The strenuous trek up 900m Queenstown Hill takes two to three hours return. Access is from Belfast Tce.

Ben Lomond Track HIKING

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The track to the summit of Ben Lomond (1748m, six to eight hours return) is a steep tramp requiring a high-level of fitness and shouldn’t be underestimated. Snow and ice can make it even more difficult; in winter check at DOC or the i-SITE before setting out. It starts by following the Tiki Trail from Lomond Ave.

Tiki Trail WALKING

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The hour-long walk up to the top of the gondola is not particularly scenic, but the views at the top are excellent. You can access the track from either Brecon St or Lomond Ave.

Guided Nature Walks WALKING

( 03-442 7126; www.nzwalks.com; adult/child from $105/65) Excellent walks in the Queenstown area, including a Walk & Wine option and snowshoeing in winter.

Ultimate Hikes HIKING

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( 03-450 1940; www.ultimatehikes.co.nz; 9 Duke St; 8am-6pm Nov-Apr) Offers day walks on the Routeburn Track (adult/child $169/85) and the Milford Track (adult/child $295/95) from Queenstown. Or you can do the multiday tracks in their entirety, staying in Ultimate Hikes’ own staffed lodges rather than DOC huts, where hot meals and en suite bathrooms await (Routeburn/Milford from $1225/1930).

Climbing Queenstown Rock CLIMBING

( 03-450 2119; www.climbingqueenstown.com; from $149) Rock climbing, via ferrata (climbing with fixed metal rungs, rails, pegs and cables) and alpine trekking led by qualified guides.

Bungy & Swings

AJ Hackett Bungy BUNGY JUMPING

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( 03-450 1300; www.bungy.co.nz; The Station, cnr Camp & Shotover Sts) The bungy originators now operate bungy from three sites in the Queenstown area, with giant swings available at two of them. It all started at the historic 1880 Kawarau Bridge OFFLINE MAP (adult/child $180/130) , 23km from Queenstown (transport included). In 1988 it became the world’s first commercial bungy site, offering a 43m leap over the river.

The closest to Queenstown are the Ledge Bungy OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP (adult/child $180/130) and Ledge Swing OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP (adult/child $150/100) at the top of the Skyline Gondola; the leap is only 47m, but it’s 400m above town. In winter you can even leap into the dark.

Last but most pant-wetting is the Nevis Bungy (per person $260) – the highest bungy in Australasia. 4WD buses will transport you from the Kawarau Bridge site onto private farmland where you can jump from a specially constructed pod, 134m above the Nevis River. The Nevis Swing (solo/tandem $320/180) starts 160m above the river and cuts a 300-degree arc across the canyon on a rope longer than a rugby field – yes, it’s the world’s biggest swing.

Shotover Canyon Swing EXTREME SPORTS

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( 03-442 6990; www.canyonswing.co.nz; booking office 35 Shotover St; per person $215, additional swings $35) Be released loads of different ways – backwards, in a chair, upside down. From there it’s a 60m free fall and a wild swing across the canyon at 150km/h.

White-Water Rafting & Sledging

Queenstown Rafting RAFTING

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( 03-442 9792; www.rafting.co.nz; 35 Shotover St; rafting/helirafting $199/285) Rafts year-round on the choppy Shotover River (Grade III to V) and calmer Kawarau River (Grade II to III). Trips take four to five hours with two to three hours on the water. Helirafting trips are an exciting alternative. Participants must be at least 13 years old and weigh more than 40kg. If you book through other rafting companies such as Extreme Green ( 03-442 8517; www.nzraft.com; rafting/helirafting $195/279) and Challenge ( 0800 423 836, 03-442 7318; www.raft.co.nz; rafting/helirafting $195/279) , you’ll end up on the same trips.

Family Adventures RAFTING

( 03-442 8836; www.familyadventures.co.nz; adult/child $179/120) Gentler (Grade I to II) trips on the Shotover suitable for children three years and older. Operates in summer only.

Serious Fun EXTREME SPORTS

( 03-442 5262; www.riversurfing.co.nz; per person $195) The only company to surf the infamous Chinese Dogleg section of the ­Kawarau River, on what’s basically a glorified boogie board.

Frogz EXTREME SPORTS

( 03-441 2318; www.frogz.co.nz; per person $195) Steer buoyant sleds on the rapids and whirlpools of the Kawarau River.

Jetboating

Skippers Canyon Jet JETBOATING

( 03-442 9434; www.skipperscanyonjet.co.nz; Skippers Rd; adult/child $129/79) Incorporates a 30-minute blast through the narrow gorges of the remote Skippers Canyon OFFLINE MAP , on the upper reaches of the Shotover River. The three-hour return trips (picking up from Queenstown accommodation) also cover the region’s gold-mining history.

Shotover Jet JETBOATING

( 03-442 8570; www.shotoverjet.com; Gorge Rd, Arthurs Point; adult/child $129/69) Half-hour trips through the rocky Shotover Canyons, with lots of thrilling 360-degree spins.

K Jet JETBOATING

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( 03-409 0000; www.kjet.co.nz; adult/child $119/69) One-hour trips on the Kawarau and Lower Shotover Rivers, leaving from the main jetty.

Skydiving, Gliding & Parasailing

NZone SKYDIVING

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( 03-442 5867; www.nzone.biz; 35 Shotover St; 9000-15,000ft jumps $269-439) Jump out of a perfectly good airplane – with a tandem skydiving expert.

G Force Paragliding PARAGLIDING

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( 03-441 8581; www.nzgforce.com; per person $199) Tandem paragliding from the top of the gondola or from Coronet Peak (9am departures are $20 cheaper).

Coronet Peak
Tandem PARAGLIDING, HANG GLIDING

( 0800 467 325; www.tandemparagliding.com; from $189) Offering spectacular take-offs from Coronet Peak, with free pick-ups from Queenstown accommodation.

Skytrek PARAGLIDING, HANG GLIDING

( 0800 759 873; www.skytrek.co.nz; from $190) Soar on tandem flights from Coronet Peak; transfers included.

Queenstown Paraflights PARASAILING

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( 0800 225 520; www.paraflights.co.nz; solo/tandem per person $159/129) Float 200m above the lake as you’re pulled behind a boat. Departs from the main pier.

Elevation Paragliding School PARAGLIDING

( 0800 359 444; www.elevation.co.nz; instruction from $240) Learn the paragliding ropes and graduate to four solo flights.

Mountain Biking

With the opening of the Queenstown Bike Park, the region is now firmly established as an international focus for the sport. If you’re in town for a while, consider joining the Queenstown Mountain Bike Club (www.queenstownmtb.co.nz) .

The Queenstown Trail – more than 100km in total – links five scenic smaller trails showcasing Queenstown, Arrowtown, Gibbston, Lake Wakatipu and Lake Hayes. The trail is suitable for cyclists of all levels

Queenstown Bike Park MOUNTAIN BIKING

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( 03-441 0101; www.queenstownbikepark.co.nz; Skyline; half-/full day $60/85; 10am-6pm Sep-Nov, Mar & Apr, to 8pm Dec-Feb) Thirteen different trails – from easy (green) to extreme (double black) – traverse Bob’s Peak high above the lake. Once you’ve descended on two wheels, simply jump on the gondola and do it all over again. The best trail for novice riders is the 6km-long Hammy’s Track, which is studded with lake views and picnic spots. BYO bike.

Vertigo Bikes MOUNTAIN BIKING

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( 03-442 8378; www.vertigobikes.co.nz; 4 Brecon St; rental half-/full day from $39/59) If you’re serious about getting into mountain biking QT-style, Vertigo is an essential first stop. Options include skills training clinics (from $149), guided sessions in the Queens­town Bike Park ($159), downhill rides into Skippers Canyon (two runs $159) and Remarkables helibiking ($399).

Fat Tyre Adventures MOUNTAIN BIKING

( 0800 328 897; www.fat-tyre.co.nz; tours from $229) Tours cater to different abilities, with day tours, multiday tours, helibiking and singletrack riding. Bike hire and trail snacks are included.

Outside Sports BICYCLE RENTAL

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( 03-441 0074; www.outsidesports.co.nz; 36-38 Shotover St) One-stop shop for bike rentals and trail information. It also sells outdoor gear and rent skis and snowboards in winter.

Queenstown Bike Hire BICYCLE RENTAL

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( 03-442 6039; 28 Church St; 9am-dark) Best for tandems (per hour $30) and lakefront bike rides (per hour/day $14/38). It also hires kayaks, scooters, cars and snow chains.

Skiing & Snowboarding

Queenstowners have two excellent ski fields to choose between in the Remarkables (Click here) and Coronet Peak (Click here), and when they fancy a change of scenery, there’s always Cardrona and Treble Cone (Click here) near Wanaka. ­Coronet Peak is the only field to offer night skiing, which is an experience not to be missed.

The ski season generally lasts from around June to September. Tune into 99.2FM from 6.45am to 9am to hear snow reports. In winter the shops are full of ski gear for purchase and hire; Outside Sports (Click here) is a reliable option.

Even outside of the main season, heli-skiing is an option for cashed-up serious skiiers; try Over The Top Helicopters (Click here), Harris Mountains Heli-Ski ( 03-442 6722; www.heliski.co.nz; from $825) , or Southern Lakes Heliski ( 03-442 6222; www.heliskinz.com; from $820) .

Other Activities

It would be impractical to list absolutely every activitiy on offer in Queenstown. If you’re interested in golf, minigolf, sailing or diving, enquire at the i-SITE.

Skyline Luge LUGE

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( 03-441 0101; www.skyline.co.nz; Skyline; 1/2/3/5 rides incl gondola $36/39/45/50; 10am-dusk) Ride the gondola to the top, then hop on a three-wheeled cart to ride the 800m track. Nail the ‘scenic’ run once and you’re allowed on the advanced track with its banked corners and tunnel.

Queenstown Ice Arena ICE SKATING

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( 03-441 8000; www.queenstownicearena.co.nz; 29 Park St; entry incl skate hire $15; 10am-5pm Sun-Thu, to 9.30pm Fri & Sat Apr-Oct) Slip-slide around the rink or watch a game of ice hockey.

Ziptrek Ecotours ZIPLINE

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( 03-441 2102; www.ziptrek.com; Skyline) Incorporating a series of ziplines (flying foxes), this harness-clad thrill ride takes you from treetop to treetop high above Queenstown. Ingenious design and eco­friendly values are a bonus. Choose from the two-hour four-line ‘Moa’ tour (adult/child $129/79) or the gnarlier three-hour six-line ‘Kea’ option ($179/129).

Canyoning.co.nz CANYONING

( 03-441 3003; www.canyoning.co.nz) Half-day trips in the nearby 12-Mile Delta Canyons ($185) or the remote Routeburn Valley ($250).

XD Dark Ride GAMING

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( 03-441 8080; 1/7 Earl St; session $30; 11am-late) Shoot up zombies or Wild West outlaws in the equivalent of a bi-screen multiplayer computer game, with 3D vision, surround sound and multisensory seats. Great fun for a rainy day.

Stu Dever Fishing Charters FISHING

( 027 433 3052; www.fishing-queenstown.co.nz; 2hr adult/child $120/60) Salmon and trout fishing from the 34ft launch Chinook .

Frisbee Golf FRISBEE

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(www.queenstowndiscgolf.co.nz; Queenstown Gardens) A series of 18 tree-­mounted chain baskets set among the trees; local sports stores sell frisbees and scorecards.

Tours

Lake Cruises

TSS Earnslaw BOAT TOUR

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( 0800 656 501; www.realjourneys.co.nz; Steamer Wharf, Beach St; tours from $55) The stately, steam-powered TSS Earnslaw celebrated a centenary of continuous ser­vice in 2012. Once the lake’s major means of transport, now its ever-present cloud of black soot seems a little incongruous in such a pristine setting. Climb aboard for the standard 1½-hour Lake Wakatipu tour (adult/child $55/22) or take a 3½-hour excursion to the high-country Walter Peak Farm OFFLINE MAP (adult/child $68/20) for sheep-shearing demonstrations and sheep-dog performances (adult/child $75/22).

Million Dollar Cruise BOAT TOUR

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( 03-442 9770; www.milliondollarcruise.co.nz; tours 11am, 2pm & 4pm) Good-value, informative 90-minute cruises heading up the Frankton end of the lake, past the multi­million-dollar real estate of Kelvin Heights ($25). It also offers Maori Culture cruises with commentary by Ngai Tahu guides ($55).

Scenic Flights

Air Milford SCENIC FLIGHTS

( 03-442 2351; www.airmilford.co.nz) Options include a Milford Sound flyover (adult/child $420/255), a fly-cruise-fly combo ($499/300), and longer flights to Doubtful Sound and Aoraki/Mt Cook.

Glenorchy Air SCENIC FLIGHTS

( 03-442 2207; www.glenorchy.net.nz) Scenic trips from Queenstown or Glenorchy include a Milford Sound fly-cruise-fly option (adult/child $445/275) and an Aoraki/Mt Cook flyover (adult/child $625/350).

Over the Top Helicopters HELICOPTER

( 03-442 2233; www.flynz.co.nz; trips from $265) Around Queenstown and beyond.

Sunrise Balloons BALLOONING

( 03-442 0781; www.ballooningnz.com; adult/child $445/295) One-hour sunrise rides including a champagne breakfast.

Winery Tours

Most tours include wineries in the Gibbston and Cromwell Basin subregions.

Appellation Central Wine Tours WINE TASTING

( 03-442 0246; www.appellationcentral.co.nz; $175-225) Tours include platter lunches at a winery restaurant.

Queenstown Wine Trail WINE TASTING

( 03-441 3990; www.queenstownwinetrail.co.nz) Choose from a five-hour tour with tastings at four wineries ($139) or a shorter Summer Sampler tour with lunch included ($160).

Cycle de Vine CYCLING

( 0800 328 897; www.cycledevine.co.nz; adult/child $155/95; Oct-May) Cruise on a retro ­bicycle around Gibbston. Tours include three different wineries and a picnic lunch beside the meandering Kawarau River.

Milford Sound

Day trips from Queenstown to Milford Sound via Te Anau take 12 to 13 hours, including a two-hour cruise on the sound. Bus-cruise-flight options are also available, as is pick-up from the Routeburn Track finish line. To save on travel time and cost, consider visiting Milford from Te Anau (Click here).

BBQ Bus TOUR

( 03-442 1045; www.milford.net.nz; adult/child $195/100) Smaller groups (up to 22 people) and a barbecue lunch.

Real Journeys TOUR

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( 0800 656 501; www.realjourneys.co.nz; Steamer Wharf, Beach St; adult/child from $178/89) Day or overnight tours to Milford and Doubtful Sounds.

Kiwi Discovery TOUR

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( 03-442 8794; www.kiwidiscovery.com; 37 Camp St) Milford Sound trips, ski packages and trailhead transport.

Quad & 4WD Tours

Off Road Adventures DRIVING TOUR

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( 03-442 7858; www.offroad.co.nz; 61a Shotover St) Exciting off-road 4WD (from $109), quad-bike (from $199) and dirt-bike ($269) tours.

Nomad Safaris DRIVING TOUR

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( 03-442 6699; www.nomadsafaris.co.nz; 37 Shotover St; adult/child from $169/85) Take in stunning scenery and hard-to-get-to backcountry vistas around Skippers Canyon and Macetown, or head on a ‘Safari of the Scenes’ through Middle-earth locations around Glenorchy and the Wakatipu Basin. You can also quad-bike through a sheep station on Queenstown Hill ($245).

Queenstown Heritage Tours TOUR

( 03-409 0949; www.queenstown-heritage.co.nz; adult/child $160/80) Skippers Canyon is reached by a narrow, winding road built by gold panners in the 1800s. This scenic but hair-raising 4WD route runs from Arthurs Point towards Coronet Peak and then above the Shotover River, passing gold-rush sights. Wine tours are also available.

Other Tours

Segway on Q TOUR

( 03-442 8687; www.segwayonq.com) Explore the town and Queenstown Gardens on a two-hour spin (adult/child $119/109), or cruise for an hour around Queenstown Bay (adult/child $85/75).

Art Adventures GUIDED TOUR

( 0800 582 878; www.artadventures.co.nz) Provides studio and gallery tours ($200) or the opportunity to work with professional tutors on your own masterpiece ($310).

Festivals & Events

Gibbston Wine & Food Festival FOOD, WINE

(www.gibbstonwineandfood.co.nz) Gibbston comes to Queenstown Gardens for the day in mid-March.

Queenstown Bike Festival SPORTS

(www.queenstownbikefestival.co.nz) Ten days of two-wheeled action at Easter.

Queenstown Winter Festival SPORTS

(www.winterfestival.co.nz) Ten days of wacky ski and snowboard activities, live music, comedy, fireworks, a community carnival, parade, ball and plenty of frigid frivolity in late June.

Gay Ski Week SPORT, GAY

(www.gayskiweekqt.com) The South Island’s biggest and most fun gay and lesbian event in late August/early September.

Sleeping

Queenstown has endless accommodation options, but midpriced rooms are hard to come by. The hostels, however, are extremely competitive, offering ever-more extras to win custom – they’re worth considering even if it’s not usually your thing. Places book out and prices rocket during the peak summer (December to February) and ski (June to September) seasons; book well in advance.

Goodstays OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP ( 03-442 7518; www.goodstays.co.nz; 1st fl, 19 Camp St) has a huge variety of holiday homes and apartments on its website, with prices ranging from around $150 to $2000 per night; a minimum stay of three nights applies.

Nearby DOC campsites (adult/child $6/3) include Twelve Mile Delta OFFLINE MAP , 11km out of town towards Glenorchy, and Skippers, near Coronet Peak.

Central Queenstown

Adventure Queenstown HOSTEL $

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( 03-409 0862; www.aqhostel.co.nz; 36 Camp St; dm $29-35, d/tr $120/135; ) Run by experienced travellers (as evidenced by the photos on display), this central hostel has spotless dorms, a modern kitchen and envy-inducing balconies. Free stuff includes unlimited internet, international calling to 30 ­countries, bicycles and frisbees. Private rooms have en suite bathrooms (as do some of the dorms), iPod docks and Blueray players.

Haka Lodge HOSTEL $

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( 03-442 4970; www.hakalodge.com; 6 Henry St; dm $29-31, r $79; ) Slap your thighs and kick up your heels, this haka is well worth participating in. In response to traveller research, the brightly painted dorms have custom-built bunks including large lockable storage chests, privacy curtains, personal lights and electrical sockets.

Butterfli Lodge HOSTEL $

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( 03-442 6367; www.butterfli.co.nz; 62 Thompson St; dm/s/d $30/66/69; ) This pretty little hostel sits on a quiet hillside west of the town centre, ruled over by Jimmy the cat. There are no bunks but no en suite bathrooms either. You won’t believe the views from the deck.

Nomads HOSTEL $

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( 03-441 3922; www.nomadshostels.com; 5 Church St; dm $28-37, r $110-135; ) With a prime location near Queenstown’s nightlife, this massive hostel has facilities galore including its own minicinema, en suite rooms, massive kitchens and an on-site travel agency. It even sweetens the deal with free breakfast and dinner.

Creeksyde Top 10 HOLIDAY PARK $

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( 03-442 9447; www.camp.co.nz; 54 Robins Rd; campsites $49-52, d $77, units with/without bathroom $128/89; ) In a garden setting, this pretty spot has accommodation ranging from basic tent sites to self-­contained motel units. Quirky touches include oddball sculptures and an ablutions block disguised as a medieval oast house.

Hippo Lodge HOSTEL $

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( 03-442 5785; www.hippolodge.co.nz; 4 Anderson Heights; campsites $20, dm $29-30, s $42, d with/without bathroom from $90/70; ) Homely and slightly shabby, this relaxed hostel has a student-flat vibe, although it’s a lot cleaner than that implies. The views come with a correspondingly high number of stairs.

Bumbles HOSTEL $

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( 03-442 6298; www.bumblesbackpackers.co.nz; cnr Lake Esplanade & Brunswick St; campsites/dm/r $20/30/65; ) Enjoying a prime lakeside location, this popular wee hive has colourful decor and a supremely laid-back vibe. The 10 beds are split between one private room and one dorm, and there’s limited space for tents and campervans.

Black Sheep Lodge HOSTEL $

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( 03-442 7289; www.blacksheepbackpackers.co.nz; 13 Frankton Rd; dm $29, d $75-85; ) This place keeps younger social types happy with a spa pool, frisbees and a truckload of DVDs. There are also plenty of private nooks and crannies for escaping with your favourite book. Rooms share bathrooms.

Last Resort HOSTEL $

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( 03-442 4320; www.tlrqtn.com; 6 Memorial St; dm $30; ) Supercentral, this smaller hostel is reached across a tiny brick-and-timber bridge traversing a bubbling brook in the backyard. The setting is lovely but the facilities could do with an upgrade.

Southern Laughter HOSTEL $

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( 03-441 8828; www.sircedrics.co.nz; 4 Isle St; dm $26-29, r with/without bathroom $80/70; ) Lame jokes cover the walls of this sprawling old-school hostel. The rooms are fine but the bathrooms are a little shabby. Free veggie soup and a spa pool are added benefits.

Amity Lodge MOTEL $$

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( 03-442 7288; www.amitylodge.co.nz; 7 Melbourne St; units from $170; ) In a quiet street around a five-minute walk up from the town centre, this angular white block has renovated one- and two-bedroom units and friendly owners. The triple glazing is more about keeping out the cold than noise.

Coronation Lodge LODGE $$

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( 03-442 0860; www.coronationlodge.co.nz; 10 Coronation Dr; d $165-185; ) Right beside Queenstown Gardens, this tidy block has basement parking, plush bed linen, wooden floors and Turkish rugs. Larger rooms have kitchenettes.

Alexis Queenstown MOTEL $$

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( 03-409 0052; www.alexisqueenstown.co.nz; 69 Frankton Rd; unit from $155; ) This modern hillside motel is an easy 10-minute walk from town along the lakefront. The pleasant self-contained units have thoughtful extras such as stereos and robes, along with beaut lake views.

Queenstown Motel Apartments MOTEL $$

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( 03-442 6095; www.qma.co.nz; 62 Frankton Rd; unit from $125; ) This well-run spot has a mixture of newer units with smart decor, and older, cheaper 1970s-style units. There’s a handy on-site laundry, and the lake and mountain views are uniformly great – even from the cheaper ­accommodation.

Lomond Lodge LODGE $$

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( 03-442 8235; www.lomondlodge.com; 33 Man St; d $145-169; ) A makeover has modernised Lomond Lodge’s cosy decor. Share your on-the-road stories with fellow travellers around the garden barbecue. Larger family apartments ($299 for up to four people) are also available.

The Dairy BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$

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( 03-442 5164; www.thedairy.co.nz; 10 Isle St; s $435-465, d $465-495; ) Once a corner store, the Dairy is now a luxury B&B with 13 rooms packed with classy touches like designer bed linen, silk cushions and luxurious mohair rugs. Rates include cooked breakfasts and freshly baked afternoon teas.

Eichardt’s Private Hotel BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$

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( 03-441 0450; www.eichardtshotel.co.nz; 1-3 Marine Pde; apt $1250-1900, r $1700-1950; ) Dating from 1867, this restored hotel enjoys an absolute lakefront location. Each of the five giant suites has a fireplace, king-sized bed, heated floor, lake-sized bath tub and lake views. Four nearby apartments are equally luxurious.

Queenstown Park BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$

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( 03-441 8441; www.queenstownparkhotel.co.nz; 21 Robins Rd; r $295-395; ) White curtains billow over beds decked out in luxurious linen at this very chic 16-room hotel. The ‘Remarkables rooms’ have balconies facing over a park to the mountain range (there aren’t any lake views). The gondola-facing rooms are smaller but have courtyards; all have kitchenettes.

Historic Stone House APARTMENTS $$$

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( 03-442 9812; www.historicstonehouse.co.nz; 47 Hallenstein St; apt from $225; ) Formerly the mayor’s digs, this lovely stone building (1874) has been converted into a three-bedroom apartment, with an additional one-bedroom unit in a wooden extension and another in an elevated building behind it. Inside, modern kitchens and bathrooms meld with antique furniture, while outside there are established gardens and a spa pool.

Chalet Queenstown B&B B&B $$$

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( 03-442 7117; www.chaletqueenstown.co.nz; 1 Dublin St; s/d $195/245; ) The seven perfectly appointed rooms at this stylish B&B are decked out with flat-screen TVs, interesting original artworks and quality bed linen. All have balconies with views; get in early and request one looking over the lake.

Surrounds

Shotover Top 10 Holiday Park HOLIDAY PARK $

( 03-442 9306; www.shotoverholidaypark.co.nz; 70 Arthurs Point Rd, Arthurs Point; campsites $38, units with/without bathroom from $100/65; ) High above the Shotover River, this family-friendly park with brand-new motel units is 10 minutes’ drive from the hustle and bustle of Queenstown. Fall out of your campervan straight onto the famous Shotover Jet.

Little Paradise Lodge LODGE $$

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( 03-442 6196; www.littleparadise.co.nz; Glenorchy-Queenstown Rd, Mt Creighton; dm $45, r with/without bathroom $140/120) Wonderfully eclectic, this slice of arty paradise is the singular vision of the Swiss/Filipina owners. Each rustic room features wooden floors, quirky artwork and handmade furniture. Outside the fun continues with a back-to-nature swimming hole and well-crafted walkways through beautiful gardens.

Asure Queenstown
Gateway Apartments MOTEL $$

( 03-442 3599; www.gateway.net.nz; 1066 Frankton Rd, Frankton; apt from $155; ) On the highway near the airport (and hence cheaper than its equivalents in the town proper), this motel complex has modern two-bedroom split-level apartments with private courtyards. Request a rear unit for a quieter stay.

Villa del Lago APARTMENTS $$$

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( 03-442 5727; www.villadellago.co.nz; 249 Frankton Rd, Queenstown East; apt from $260; ) Clinging to the cliffs between the highway and the lake, these spacious apartments have lake-facing terraces and all the mod cons including a full kitchen, laundry and gas fire. The water taxi stops at the private jetty.

Evergreen Lodge B&B $$$

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( 03-442 6636; www.evergreenlodge.co.nz; 28 Evergreen Pl, Sunshine Bay; r $695; ) Tucked away above Sunshine Bay, this luxurious American-run B&B offers bigger-­than-Texas rooms in a supremely private location with unfettered lake and mountain views. Add complimentary beer and wine, and a sauna and gym, and you’ve got a very relaxing escape from Queenstown’s bustle.

Eating

Central Queenstown

Fergburger BURGERS $

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(www.fergburger.com; 42 Shotover St; burgers $10-19; 8.30am-5am) Queenstown’s famous Fergburger has now become a tourist attraction in itself, forcing many locals to look elsewhere for their big-as-your-head gourmet-burger fix. We think the original is still worth the wait. Queue nicely please.

Fergbaker BAKERY $

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(42 Shotover St; items $6-9; 6.30am-4.30am) Fergburger’s sweeter sister bakes all manner of tempting treats – and although most things look tasty with 3am beer goggles on, these withstand the daylight test admirably. Goodies include meat pies, filled rolls, danish pastries and banoffee tarts.

Patagonia SWEETS, CAFE $

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(www.patagoniachocolates.co.nz; 50 Beach St; mains $10-18; 9am-8pm; ) Delicious hot chocolate, homemade choccies, and Queenstown’s best ice cream – what more do you want? How about a lakefront location and free wi-fi? Start the day with a ‘chocolate croissant breakfast’ and finish it with warm churros (Spanish doughnuts).

Devil Burger BURGERS $

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(www.devilburger.com; 5-11 Church St; mains $10-19; 10.30am-midnight Sun & Mon, to 4am Tue-Sat) Look out Ferg – you’ve got competition in the Queenstown burger wars. This diabolical new kid on the block also does tasty wraps. Try the hangover-busting ‘Walk of Shame’ wrap, stuffed with what’s basically a full cooked breakfast.

Lick ICE CREAM $

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(40 Shotover St; mains $8-13; 10am-10pm) Summer? Tuck into gourmet ice cream in flavours like toffee apple or macadamia nut. Winter? How about hearty concoctions such as soup and fresh pasta.

Aggy’s Shack FISH & CHIPS $

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(cnr Marine Pde & Church St; $9-20; 11am-10pm) Head to this simple lakeside gazebo for fish and chips, including juicy blue cod, and the opportunity to try a few Maori flavours like smoked eel, kina (sea urchin) and titi (muttonbird).

Habebe’s MIDDLE EASTERN $

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(www.habebes.co.nz; Plaza Arcade, 30 Shotover St; meals $8-17; 8am-5.30pm; ) Middle Eastern–inspired salads and wraps. Soups and yummy pies (try the chicken, kumara and mushroom one) break the mould.

Mediterranean Market DELI $

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(www.mediterranean.co.nz; 53 Robins Rd; 8am-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm Sun) Fill up a basket for a lakeside picnic from this fantastic deli and bakery.

Public Kitchen & Bar MODERN NZ $$

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( 03-442 5969; www.publickitchen.co.nz; Steamer Wharf, Beach St; dishes $15-45; noon-11pm) The trend towards informal, shared dining has come to Queenstown in the form of this excellent waterfront eatery. Grab a posse and order a selection of plates of varying sizes from the menu; the meaty dishes, in particular, are excellent.

Vudu Cafe & Larder CAFE $$

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(www.vudu.co.nz; 16 Rees St; mains $13-19; 7.30am-6pm) Excellent home-style baking combines with great coffee and tasty cooked breakfasts at this cosmopolitan cafe. Admire the huge photo of a much less-­populated Queenstown from an inside table, or head through to the rear garden for lake and mountain views. There’s another branch (23 Beach St) around the corner.

Eichardt’s Bar TAPAS $$

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(www.eichardtshotel.co.nz; 1-3 Marine Pde; breakfast $16-18, lunch $24-26, tapas $7-10; 7.30am-10pm) Elegant without being stuffy, this small bar attached to Eichardt’s Private Hotel is a wonderful refuge from the buzz of the streets. Foodwise, tapas is the main focus – and although the selection isn’t particularly Spanish, it is particularly delicious.

Sasso ITALIAN $$

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( 03-409 0994; www.sasso.co.nz; 14-16 Church St; mains $25-36; 4-10pm) Whether you’re snuggled by one of the fireplaces inside the stone cottage (1882) or you’ve landed a table under the summer stars on the front terrace, this upmarket Italian eatery isn’t short on atmosphere. Thankfully the food’s excellent too.

Captain’s Restaurant EUROPEAN $$

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( 03-441 1633; www.captains.co.nz; 11 The Mall; brunch $14-27, dinner $28-50; 9am-late) Exposed stone walls add atmosphere inside, but the people-watching opportunities of the street tables can’t be beaten on a sunny day. The menu morphs from cafe-style dishes to heartier bistro classics as the day progresses.

Winnie’s PIZZERIA, BAR $$

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(www.winnies.co.nz; L1, 7 The Mall; mains $16-28; noon-late; ) Part-bar and part-­restaurant, Winnie’s always seems busy. Pizzas with a Thai, Mexican or Moroccan accent and massive burgers, pasta and steaks soak up the alcohol and keep energy levels high. On balmy nights the whole roof opens up and the party continues until the wee smalls.

Bella Cucina ITALIAN $$

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( 03-442 6762; www.bellacucina.co.nz; 6 Brecon St; mains $26-36; 5-10pm) Settle into one of Queenstown’s cosiest and most romantic dining rooms and tuck into beautifully simple food done just right. Fresh pasta and risotto are highlights, while the rustic woodfired pizza is perfect for sharing.

Halo CAFE $$

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( 03-441 1411; www.haloforbiddenbite.co.nz; Camp St; brunch $11-19, dinner $23-29; 7am-5pm Mon & Tue, to 9pm Wed-Sun) This stylish, sunny place effortlessly blurs the line between breakfast, lunch and dinner. The breakfast burrito will set you up for a day’s adventuring. There’s plenty of outdoor seating.

Kappa JAPANESE $$

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(L1, 36a The Mall; lunch $11-14, dinner $17-28; noon-10pm) Queenstown’s best Japanese eatery is also its most casual. Fresh tuna and salmon feature in good-value lunchtime bento boxes. Later on, linger longer with excellent tempura and Japanese beer and sake. In summer watch the passing parade from the upstairs deck.

@Thai THAI $$

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(www.atthai.co.nz; L1, 8 Church St; lunch $15, dinner $17-28; noon-10pm Wed-Mon) Head up the semihidden set of stairs for pad Thai worth writing home about, and hor-mok seafood red curry that will blow your mind. Takeaways are also available.

Botswana Butchery MODERN NZ $$$

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( 03-442 6994; www.botswanabutchery.co.nz; 17 Marine Pde; mains $34-45; noon-11pm) Lake views and schmick interiors set the scene for a scintillating menu that’s predominantly but not exclusively meaty, and a wine list of telephone-directory dimensions. The $15 Express Lunch is a great deal.

Rata MODERN NZ $$$

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( 03-442 9393; www.ratadining.co.nz; 43 Ballarat St; mains $37-38; noon-11pm) After gaining Michelin stars for restaurants in London, New York and LA, chef-owner Josh Emett has brought his exceptional but surprisingly unflashy cooking back home in the form of this upmarket but informal back-lane eatery. Native bush sets the scene for a short menu showcasing the best seasonal NZ produce.

Fishbone SEAFOOD $$$

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( 03-442 6768; www.fishbonequeenstown.co.nz; 7 Beach St; mains $29-38; 5-10pm) Queenstown’s more than a few miles inland, but that doesn’t prevent Fishbone from sourcing the best NZ seafood. Everything from scallops to snapper is treated with a light and inventive touch.

Surrounds

VKnow MODERN NZ $$

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( 03-442 5444; www.vknow.co.nz; 155 Fernhill Rd, Fernhill; pizzas $19-30, mains $26-36; 4pm-late) We agree, the name is dumb. But don’t let that put you off this extremely friendly, casual restaurant – the kind that everyone wishes was tucked away in their neighbourhood. The menu showcases local venison, blue cod and Canterbury lamb.

Wakatipu Grill EUROPEAN $$$

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( 03-450 9400; www.queenstownhilton.com; Hilton Queenstown, Peninsula Rd, Kelvin Heights; mains $34-52; 4pm-late Wed-Sun) The Hilton sprawls along the lakeside by the Kawarau River outlet, and part of the fun of visiting its signature restaurant is the 8km water-taxi ride. The grill menu stretches to Fred Flintstone–sized Angus T-bones but would-be Wilmas can opt for freshly shucked oysters, pasta or French-influenced fish, lamb and duck dishes.

Gantley’s FRENCH $$$

( 03-442 8999; www.gantleys.co.nz; 172 Arthurs Point Rd, Arthurs Point; mains $37-44; 6-10pm) Gantley’s French-influenced menu and highly regarded wine list justify the 7km journey from Queenstown. The atmospheric dining experience is showcased in a stone-and-­timber building, built in 1863 as a wayside inn. If you feel like splurging, try the six-course degustation ($90).

Drinking & Nightlife

Drinking is almost a competitive sport in Queenstown, and there’s a good range of options for after-dark carousing. Live music and clubbing are a nightly affair, and even on Monday and Tuesday nights you should have no problem finding a bar open until 4am.

A couple of outfits run organised pub crawls, where a wristband buys you a riotous night of discounted drinks, giveaways and games along the way; look for the ads in hostels and bars around town.

Ballarat Trading Company PUB

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(www.ballarat.co.nz; 7-9 The Mall; 11am-late) Stuffed bears, rampant wall-mounted ducks and a re-created colonial general store – there’s really no competition for the title of Queenstown’s most eclectic decor. Beyond the grab bag of infuences, Ballarat is quite a traditional spot, with gleaming beer taps, sports on TV, occasional lapses into 1980s music and robust meals.

Zephyr BAR

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(1 Searle Lane; 8pm-4am) Queenstown’s coolest indie rock bar is located – as all such places should be – in a grungy basement off a back lane.

Pub on Wharf PUB

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(www.pubonwharf.co.nz; 88 Beach St; 10am-late; ) Ubercool interior design combines with handsome woodwork and lighting fit for a hipster hideaway. Fake sheep heads reinforce that you’re still in NZ, and Mac’s beers on tap, scrummy nibbles and a decent wine list make this a great place to settle in for the evening. There’s live music nightly.

Monty’s PUB

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(www.montysbar.co.nz; 12 Church St) On warm summer days, the patio at this Monteith’s Brewery ‘concept bar’ is prime real estate. Bands crank up from Thursday to Sunday night.

New Zealand Wine Experience WINE BAR

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( 03-409 2226; www.winetastes.com; 14 Beach St; 10.30am-10pm) Here’s something different: load up cash on a smart card and then help yourself to tasting pours or glasses of over 90 NZ wines dispensed through an automated gas-closure system. There’s also a whisky corner, and cheese platters are available.

Bardeaux WINE BAR

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(Eureka Arcade, Searle Lane; 4pm-4am) This small, low-key, cavelike wine bar is all class. Under a low ceiling are plush leather armchairs and a fireplace made from Central Otago schist. The wine list is extraordinary, with the price of several bottles reaching four digits.

Atlas Beer Cafe BAR

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(www.atlasbeercafe.com; Steamer Wharf, Beach St; 10am-2am) Perched at the end of Steamer Wharf, this pint-sized bar specialises in beers from Dunedin’s Emerson’s Brewery and regular guest beers from further afield. The small but tasty food menu includes tapas.

Searle Lane BAR

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(www.searlelane.co.nz; 15 Church St; 11am-late) Pool tables, lunch specials and shared rotisserie chickens make this a top spot for getting to know any new arrivals at your hostel. Free-flowing beer and well-mixed cocktails will help things along.

Barmuda COCKTAIL BAR

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(Searle Lane; 3pm-late) A huge open fire makes Barmuda’s walled-in courtyard an inviting space, even in cooler weather.

Surreal BAR

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(www.surrealbar.co.nz; 7 Rees St; noon-late; ) The big attraction at this otherwise average bar is the roof terrace – a wonderfully hidden-away spot for an alfresco drink. Later in the evening DJ-inspired goings-on kick off and the dance floor comes to life. Tuesday is open-mic night.

Debajo CLUB

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(www.facebook.com/Debajoqueenstown; Cow Lane; 10pm-4am) The perennial end-of-night boogie spot – house and big beat gets the dance floor heaving till closing time.

Tardis Bar BAR

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(www.tardisbar.com; Skyline Arcade, 20 Cow Lane) A good dance bar with regular DJs playing hip-hop, drum ’n’ bass and dub. Like Dr Who’s phone booth, it’s surprisingly roomy inside.

World Bar BAR

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(www.theworldbar.co.nz; 27 Shotover St; 4pm-late) Before it was destroyed by fire in 2013, the World Bar was Queenstown’s legendary party hub. At the time of writing, ambitious rebuilding plans were well underway and we’re hoping it will reopen before this book hits the shelves. If not, the same crew is running The Find OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP (53 Shotover St) as a pop-up gap-filler, just down the road.

Entertainment

Pick up the Source (www.facebook.com/SourceNZ), a free monthly flyer with a gig guide and events listings.

Kiwi Haka TRADITIONAL DANCE

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( 03-441 0101; www.skyline.co.nz; Skyline; adult/child excl gondola $39/26) For a traditional Maori cultural experience, head to the top of the gondola. There are three 30-minute shows nightly; bookings are ­essential.

Reading Cinemas CINEMA

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( 03-442 9990; www.readingcinemas.co.nz; 11 The Mall; adult/child $17/11) Discounts on Tuesdays.

Shopping

Vesta ARTS & CRAFTS

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(www.vestadesign.co.nz; 19 Marine Pde; 10.30am-5.30pm) Showcasing really cool NZ-made art and craft, Vesta is full of interesting prints, paintings, glass art and gifts. It’s housed in Williams Cottage (1864), Queenstown’s oldest home. It’s worth visiting just to check out the 1930s wallpaper and 1920s garden.

Kapa ARTS & CRAFTS

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(www.kapa.co.nz; 29 Rees St; 10am-8pm) Quirky and eclectic NZ design infused with a healthy dose of contemporary Maori culture.

Fetch CLOTHING

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(www.fetchnz.com; 34 Shotover St; 10am-6pm) Grab a uniquely Kiwi hand-screened T-shirt or create your own design as a wearable souvenir of the time you bungied, mountain-biked and ziplined to adventure-sports nirvana.

Kathmandu OUTDOOR EQUIPMENT

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(www.kathmandu.co.nz; 88 Beach St; 10am-6pm) A well-known and good-quality NZ-founded chain selling tents, sleeping bags, rugged backpacks, active footwear and stylish adventure clothing.

Small Planet Sports OUTDOOR EQUIPMENT

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(www.smallplanetsports.com; 17 Shot­over St; 9am-7pm Oct-May, 8am-9pm Jun-Sep) New and used outdoor equipment. There’s also a cheaper outlet store (23 Beach St) in town.

Arts & Crafts Market MARKET

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(www.marketplace.net.nz; Earnslaw Park; 9.30am-3.30pm Sat) Locally crafted gifts and souvenirs, on the lakefront beside Steamer Wharf.

Information

DOC Visitor Centre (Department of Conservation; ; 03-442 7935; www.doc.govt.nz; 38 Shotover St; 8.30am-5pm) Backcountry Hut Passes and weather and track updates; on the mezzanine floor above Outside Sports. Head here to pick up confirmed bookings for the Routeburn Track.

Queenstown i-SITE ( 03-442 4100; www.queenstown-vacation.com; cnr Shotover & Camp Sts; 8.30am-7pm) Friendly and informative (but perpetually frantic), the staff can help with bookings and information on Queenstown, Gibbston, Arrowtown and Glenorchy.

Getting There & Away

Air

For information on international flights, see the Transport chapter. Both Air New Zealand ( 0800 737 000; www.airnewzealand.co.nz) and Jetstar ( 0800 800 995; www.jetstar.com) fly to Queenstown from Auckland, Wellington and Christchurch.

Bus

Most buses and shuttles stop on Athol St or opposite the i-SITE; check when you book.

Alpine Connexions ( 03-443 9120; www.alpinecoachlines.co.nz) Shuttles head to/from Cardrona ($35), Wanaka ($35), Cromwell ($25), Alexandra ($35) and Dunedin ($45), as well as key stops on the Otago Central Rail Trail.

Atomic Shuttles ( 03-349 0697; www.atomictravel.co.nz) Daily bus to Cromwell ($15, 50 minutes), Omarama ($30, 2¼ hours), Twizel ($30, 3¼ hours), Lake Tekapo ($30, 3¾ hours) and Christchurch ($50, seven hours).

Connect Wanaka (www.connectabus.com) Heads to/from Wanaka twice daily ($35, 1½ hours).

InterCity ( 03-442 4922; www.intercity.co.nz) Daily coaches to/from Wanaka (from $17, 1½ hours), Franz Josef (from $62, eight hours), Dunedin (from $22, 4¼ hours) and Invercargill ($48, three hours), and twice daily to Christchurch (from $55, eight to 11 hours).

Naked Bus (www.nakedbus.com) Two buses to Wanaka (1¼ hours) daily; one to Cromwell (one hour), Franz Josef (six hours) and Christchurch (nine hours); and less frequent services to Te Anau (2¾ hours). Prices vary.

Trampers’ & Skiers’ Transport

Kiwi Discovery (Click here) also offers mountain and trailhead transport.

Info & Track Centre ( 03-442 9708; www.infotrack.co.nz; 37 Shotover St; 7.30am-8pm) During the Great Walks season, this agency provides transfers to the trailheads for the Routeburn, Greenstone and Caples, and Rees-Dart Tracks.

NZSki Snowline Express (www.nzski.com; return $15) During the ski season shuttles depart from outside the Snow Centre on Duke St every 20 minutes from 8am until 11.30am, heading to both Coronet Peak and the Remarkables. Buses return as they fill up, from 1.30pm onwards. They also leave on the hour from 4pm to 7pm for night skiing at Coronet Peak, returning on the half hour from 5.30pm to 9.30pm.

Trackhopper ( 021-187 7732; www.trackhopper.co.nz; from $230, plus fuel costs) Offers a handy car-relocation service from either end of the Routeburn, Greenstone and Caples and Rees-Dart Tracks.

Getting Around

To/From the Airport

Queenstown Airport (ZQN; ; 03-450 9031; www.queenstownairport.co.nz; Sir Henry Wrigley Dr, Frankton) is 7km east of the town centre.

Connnectabus ( 03-441 4471; www.connectabus.com) route 11 runs to to the airport from Camp St every 15 minutes from 6.50am to 11pm (adult/child $8/5). There are also services to Arrowtown and Wanaka.

Super Shuttle ( 0800 748 885; www.supershuttle.co.nz; fare $16) picks up and drops off in Queenstown.

Queenstown Taxis ( 03-450 3000; www.queenstown.bluebubbletaxi.co.nz) and Green Cabs ( 0508 447 336; www.greencabs.co.nz) charge around $35.

Public Transport

Connnectabus ( 03-441 4471; www.connectabus.com) has various colour-coded routes, reaching as far as Sunshine Bay, Fernhill, Arthurs Point, Frankton and Arrowtown. A day pass (adult/child $20/12) allows travel on the entire network. Pick up a route map and time­table from the i-SITE. Buses leave from Camp St.

Around Queenstown

Glenorchy & Around

Pop 360

Set in achingly beautiful surroundings, postage-stamp-sized Glenorchy is the perfect low-key antidote to Queenstown. An expanding range of adventure operators will get you active on the lake and in nearby mountain valleys by kayak, horse or jetboat, and if you prefer to strike out on two legs, the mountainous region at the northern end of Lake Wakatipu is the setting for some of the South Island’s finest tramps.

Those with sturdy wheels can explore the superb valleys north of Glenorchy. Paradise lies 15km northwest of town, just before the start of the Dart Track (Click here). Keep your expectations low: Paradise is just a paddock, but the gravel road there runs through beautiful farmland fringed by majestic mountains. You might recognise it from The Lord of the Rings (LOTR) movies as the approach to both Isengard and Lothlorien.

Activities

Almost all organised activities offer shuttles to and from Queenstown for a small surcharge. Other activities on offer include farm tours, fly-fishing, guided photography tours and cookery classes; enquire at the Queenstown i-SITE (Click here).

Tramping

DOC’s Head of Lake Wakatipu and Wakatipu Walks brochures (both $5) detail day walks taking in the Routeburn Valley, Lake Sylvan, Dart River and Lake Rere. Two of the best short tracks are the Routeburn Nature Walk (one hour), at the start of the Routeburn Track, and the Lake Sylvan tramp (one hour 40 minutes).

Before setting out on any of the longer tramps, call into DOC in Queenstown (Click here) or Te Anau ( 03-249 7924; www.doc.govt.nz; cnr Lakefront Dr & Te Anau-Manapouri Rd; 8.30am-4.30pm, to 6pm 9 Dec-16 Mar) for the latest track conditions and to purchase detailed maps. Another good resource is Lonely Planet’s Tramping in New Zealand .

For track snacks or meals, stock up on groceries in Queenstown. Track transport is at a premium during the summer Great Walks season (late October to March); try to book in advance. Many of the local accommodation providers offer trailhead transport; Click here for services from Queenstown.

Routeburn Track HIKING

(www.doc.govt.nz; huts/campsites Nov-Apr $54/18, May-Oct $15/5) Passing through a huge variety of landscapes with fantastic views, the 32km-long, two- to four-day Routeburn Track is one of the most popular rainforest/subalpine tracks in NZ. It’s one of NZ’s nine designated ‘Great Walks’, and many trampers rate it as the very best.

Increased pressure on the track has necessitated the introduction of an online booking system in the Great Walks season, which covers all huts and campsites on the route. You’ll then need to call into the DOC Visitor Centre in either Queenstown or Te Anau to collect actual tickets, either the day before or on the day of departure. Outside of the season, bookings aren’t required but you’ll still need to visit one of the DOC centres to purchase your hut and campsite tickets.

The Routeburn track remains open in winter. However, to traverse the alpine section after the snow falls is not recommended for casual hikers, as winter mountaineering skills are required. There are 32 avalanche paths across the section between Routeburn Falls hut and Howden hut, and the avalanche risk continues through to spring. Always check conditions with DOC.

The track can be started from either end. Many people travelling from Queenstown try to reach the Divide in time to catch the bus to Milford and connect with a cruise on the sound. En route, you’ll take in breathtaking views from Harris Saddle and the top of nearby Conical Hill, from where you can see waves breaking at Martins Bay. From Key Summit, there are panoramic views of the Hollyford Valley and the Eglinton and Greenstone River Valleys.

There are car parks at both ends of the track, but they’re unattended, so don’t leave any valuables in your car.

Route	Estimated Walking Time (hr)
Routeburn Shelter to Flats Hut	1½-2½
Flats Hut to Falls Hut	1-1½
Falls Hut to Mackenzie Hut	4½-6
Mackenzie Hut to Howden Hut	3-4
Howden Hut to the Divide	1-1½

Greenstone & Caples Tracks HIKING

(huts adult/child $15/5) Following meandering rivers through peaceful valleys, these tracks form a loop that many trampers stretch out into a moderate four- or five-day tramp. Basic huts en route are Mid Caples, Upper Caples, McKellar and Greenstone; Backcountry Hut Passes must be purchased in advance.

Both tracks meet up with the Routeburn Track; you can either follow its tail end to the Divide or (if you’ve prebooked) pursue it back towards Glenorchy. From McKellar Hut you can tramp two or three hours to Howden Hut on the Routeburn Track, which is an hour from the Divide.

Access to the Greenstone and Caples Tracks is from Greenstone Wharf; nearby you’ll find unattended parking.

Route	Estimated Walking Time (hr)
Greenstone Wharf to Mid Caples Hut	2-3
Mid Caples Hut to Upper Caples Hut	2-3
Upper Caples Hut to McKellar Hut	5-8
McKellar Hut to Greenstone Hut	5-7
Greenstone Hut to Greenstone Wharf	3-5

Rees-Dart Track HIKING

(huts/campsites $15/5) This is a difficult, demanding four- to five-day circular route from the head of Lake Wakatipu, taking you through valleys and over an alpine pass, with the possibility of a side trip to the Dart Glacier if you’re suitably equipped and experienced. Access by vehicle is possible as far as Muddy Creek on the Rees side, from where it’s six hours to Shelter Rock Hut.

Most people go up the Rees track first and come back down the Dart. Backcountry Hut Passes must be purchased in advance for the three basic DOC huts (Shelter Rock, Daleys Flat and Dart).

Route	Estimated Walking Time (hr)
Muddy Creek to Shelter Rock Hut	6-8
Shelter Rock Hut to Dart Hut	4-6
Dart Hut to Daleys Flat Hut	5-7
Daleys Flat Hut to Paradise	6-8

Horse Riding

Dart Stables HORSE RIDING

( 03-442 5688; www.dartstables.com; Coll St) Options include a two-hour ‘River Wild’ ride ($135) and a 1½-hour ‘Ride of the Rings’ trip ($175) for Hobbity types. If you’re really keen, consider the overnight two-day trek with a sleepover in Paradise ($705).

High Country Horses HORSE RIDING

( 03-442 9915; www.high-country-horses.co.nz; Priory Rd) Offers many choices, ranging from an hour-long ‘Rees River Ride’ ($80) to overnight and multiday treks.

Other Activities

Dart River Jet Safaris JETBOATING

( 03-442 9992; www.dartriver.co.nz; adult/child $219/119; departs 9am & 1pm) Journeys into the heart of the Dart River wilderness, including a short walk through the beech forest and a 4WD trip. The round trip from Glenorchy takes three hours. You can also combine a jetboat ride with a river descent in an inflatable three-seater ‘funyak’ (adult/child $319/219). Prices include Queenstown pick-ups.

Skydive Paradise SKYDIVING

( 03-442 8333; www.skydiveparadise.co.nz; Glenorchy airport; 12,000-15,000ft jump $335-409) Tandem skydiving above some of the planet’s most spectacular scenery.

Tours

Ultimate Hikes WALKING TOUR

( 03-450 1940; www.ultimatehikes.co.nz; Nov–mid-Apr) If you fancy comfort while adventuring, Ultimate Hikes offers a three-day ­guided tramp on the Routeburn (from $1225); a six-day Grand Traverse, combining walks on the Routeburn and Greenstone Tracks (from $1660); and the Classic, an eight-day tour combining the Routeburn and Milford Tracks (from $3155). All trips include meals and accommodation in Ultimate’s own comfortable huts. It also offers a one-day Routeburn Encounter ($169).

Glenorchy Base WALKING TOUR

( 03-409 0960; www.glenorchybase.co.nz; half-/full day from $350/420) Specialises in guided walks around the Glenorchy area. Highlights include bird-watching around Lake Sylvan and a Routeburn Track day walk.

Private Discovery Tours DRIVING TOUR

( 03-442 2299; www.rdtours.co.nz) Half-day 4WD tours head through a high-country sheep station in a remote valley between Mts Earnslaw and Alfred (adult/child $185/92). Full-day tours include LOTR sites around Paradise (adult/child $295/150). Prices include pick-up from Queenstown.

Sleeping & Eating

Kinloch Lodge LODGE, CAFE $

( 03-442 4900; www.kinlochlodge.co.nz; Kinloch Rd; dm $35, d with/without bathroom from $140/85; ) Across Lake Wakatipu from Glenorchy (26km by road; five minutes by boat), this wonderfully remote 1868 lodge rents mountain bikes, offers guided kayaking and provides transfers to tramping trailheads. The Heritage Rooms are small but stylish, with shared bathrooms. Rooms in the YHA-associated hostel are comfy and colourful, and there’s a post-tramp hot tub. The excellent cafe-bar is open for lunch year-round and for à la carte dinners in summer and set dinners in winter.

DOC Kinloch Campsite CAMPSITE $

(www.doc.govt.nz; Kinloch Rd; adult/child $6/3) Right by the lake and Kinloch Lodge, this standard DOC campsite has toilets, a barbecue and pure lake water for drinking. Head to the lodge for hot showers ($6) and meals.

Mt Earnslaw Motels MOTEL $$

( 03-442 6993; mtearnslaw@xtra.co.nz; 89 Oban St, Glenorchy; r $120; ) Springtime flowers enliven the gardens of this unassuming but tidy seven-room motel. The well-priced units have comfy recliners, small kitchens and large beds, but won’t win any awards for style.

Glenorchy Lake House B&B $$$

( 03-442 7084; www.glenorchylakehouse.co.nz; Mull St, Glenorchy; r $325-380; ) After a day’s tramping, recharge in the spa pool of this lakefront B&B. Other little luxuries include Egyptian cotton sheets, flat-screen TVs and nice toiletries. Transfers to the Routeburn and Greenstone Tracks are available.

Glenorchy Cafe CAFE $$

(Mull St, Glenorchy; mains $10-20, pizzas $25; 9am-5pm Sun-Wed, to 9pm Thu-Sat Jan-Apr, 10am-5pm Sun-Fri, to 9pm Sat May-Dec) Grab a sunny table out the back of this cute little cottage and tuck into cooked breakfasts, sandwiches and soup. Head inside at night to partake in pizza and beer underneath the oddball light fixtures.

Glenorchy Hotel PUB $$

( 03-442 9902; www.glenorchy-nz.co.nz; Mull St, Glenorchy; mains $15-29) The rooms are crappy but the front garden of the local pub isn’t a bad spot for a beer or filling meal.

Information

There is a petrol station in Glenorchy, but fill up with cheaper fuel before you leave Queenstown. There’s an ATM at the Glenorchy Hotel.

Glenorchy Information Centre & Store ( 03-409 2049; www.glenorchy-nz.co.nz; Mull St, Glenorchy; 9am-6pm) Attached to the Glenorchy Hotel, this little shop is a good source of updated weather and track information. Fishing rods and mountain bikes can be hired. Ask about trail maps for walking or mountain biking in the nearby Whakaari Conservation Area.

Getting There & Away

Glenorchy lies at the head of Lake Wakatipu, a scenic 40-minute (46km) drive northwest from Queenstown. With sweeping vistas and gem-coloured waters, the sealed road is wonderfully scenic but its constant hills are a killer for cyclists. There are no bus services; Click here for details of trampers’ shuttles

Arrowtown

Pop 2450

Beloved by day trippers from Queenstown, exceedingly quaint Arrowtown sprang up in the 1860s following the discovery of gold in the Arrow River. Today pretty, tree-lined avenues retain more than 60 of their original gold-rush buildings, but the only gold flaunted these days are the credit cards being waved in the expanding array of fashionable shops.

Instead of joining the bonanza of daytime tourists, take advantage of improved public transport to stay in the town and use it as a base for exploring Queenstown and the wider region. That way you can enjoy Arrowtown’s history, charm and excellent ­restaurants when the tour buses have decamped back to Queenstown

Sights

Chinese Settlement HISTORIC SITE

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(Buckingham St; 24hr) Arrowtown has NZ’s best example of a gold-era Chinese settlement. Interpretive signs explain the lives of Chinese diggers during and after the gold rush (the last resident died in 1932), while restored huts and shops make the story more tangible. Subjected to significant racism, the Chinese often had little choice but to rework old tailings rather than seek new claims.

Lake District Museum & Gallery MUSEUM

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(www.museumqueenstown.com; 49 Buckingham St; adult/child $8/2; 8.30am-5pm) Exhibits cover the gold-rush era and the early days of Chinese settlement around Arrowtown. Younger travellers will enjoy the Museum Fun Pack ($5), which includes activity sheets, museum treasure hunts, greenstone and a few flecks of gold. You can also rent pans here to try your luck panning for gold on the Arrow River ($5); you’re more likely to find some traces if you head away from the town centre.

St Patrick’s Catholic Church CHURCH

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(www.stjosephsqueenstown.co.nz; 7 Hertford St) Apart from the impressive Star of David–shaped rose window, this 1874 stone church wouldn’t be worth noting if it weren’t for its connection to Australia’s only Catholic saint. Acclaimed educator St Mary of the Cross, aka Mary McKillop (1842–1909), founded a convent in the tiny 1870s miners cottage next door. There are interesting displays on the saint in the church and in the restored cottage. Try the doors; they’re often unlocked.

Activities

The information centre stocks a Cycling & Walking Trail brochure ($1) outlining some excellent tracks in the area. One particularly good new cycling route is the Arrow River Bridges Track (12km) from Arrowtown to the Kawarau Bridge, which traverses various new suspension bridges and a tunnel cut under the highway.

Arrowtown Bike Hire MOUNTAIN BIKING

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( 0800 224 473; www.arrowtownbikehire.co.nz; 59 Buckingham St; half-/full-day rental $35/49) Get active on two wheels on the many new mountain-biking trails around Arrowtown, or join a Mountain Bike Mania tour ($199, October to April) combining 4WD and mountain-biking action and exploring the former gold-rush village of Macetown. Multiday rentals are also available.